LS Swapped 30yr Old Italian Yacht FINALE!! - ITS FASTER THAN EVER!!!
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- čas přidán 17. 09. 2023
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Music:
Fareoh - Cloud Ten - Auta a dopravní prostředky
![1 YEAR REBUILDING AN OLD BOAT INTO A MODERN YACHT TIMELAPSE [START TO FINISH]](/img/n.gif)
im sorry about the sound issues guys, it didn’t show up during the edit and i understand it’s really bad. We’ve been trying different stuff to get the best camera picture mixed with decent sound, and well… i messed up. Sorry and i’ll fix it on the next one and be sure to check better in the future. Also sorry about forgetting to put the 3d modeling video in!! this is why i shouldn’t wake up and edit at 7am but sema crunch is real!
You are awesome! Thank you for your efforts to entertain us!
And fvck the know it all haters.
Like to see these twats do what you guys did.
If the old compass is a Ritchie, it might be eligible for their factory reconditioning program. It’s probably cheaper than the new compass.
UNACCEPTABLE! Kidding love you guys , keep killing it
You can get different pich props ab get a better rpm
Your props are designed for the low reving diesels. You will need to resize them to allow the LS engines make power and higher rpm. At 2700 rpms, the LS engines are barely breathing.
And inefficient.
They are LUGGING. That is a lot of load for that rpm level.
@@TheBCninja I bet that if @Texas Speed see this video they already called him regarding constant full load at those RPMS.
And you are using Marine Plywood on your table?
Teak wood will Grey over time. That is normal.😅
I’d recommend, changing the props to allow the engines to reach maximum rated rpm , it’ll take a lot off strain off the engines and give you better economy
As many others say, you need to prop-match with the new engine and rev range. While diesels torque low down and are fine at 2500RPM, the gasoline V8 need to be much higher to produce power, and as such the propellers should he angled for your rev range and not diesels. Awesome series! Now i want to build myself a V8 boat xD
Yeah you definitely want those engines singing 5000+ at WOT. Lugging them down like that is harmful
Once you are on a plane and giving it 75-100 throttle you need to lift the tabs. You will get at least 5-10 more mph with the tabs lifted. You can see the bow plowing the water (because of the tabs being down) when you are at full throttle.
I was going to comment the same thing, bow is way too low and killing speed and economy
It's not a problem of trim tabs, but of lack of weight at the stern...the boat is built for heavy diesels.
@valefur72 It has the wrong props. It's doing 10mph at 1000RPM. LOL!
Yep he trimmed it wrong pushed the bow down
Lift the tabs your plowing the bow
B IS FOR BOAT NEEDS TO STAY
Amen brother- Boat needs to stay -So does Chelsea- she cleans way better than the boys, $10 bucks says she’s the perfectionist of the B is for Boat crew
Also- next spring - I’m hoping for the boat-a-con -
Pumped for you guys!!
All that wood needs a few coats of marine varnish. It will protect it all so much better.
I don't even own a boat and I want to see more
The boat needs different props. We have an 01 Doral 360 ext swim platform, 41ft LOA and it will run pretty much 48-50mph on twin VP 8.1's 496ci, thats at 4800rpm. Past weekend we were running 43mph at 42/4300. 2k hours on motors. Stern drives. Enjoy the cruises on river visiting w friends and enjoying food, bbq'ing and swimming!! You gonna love it.
Youll want to change the props for LS engines vs a low revving diesel engine. Also now that you know where the engine runs RPM wise (after the prop change), youll want to look into changing the cams and the intake manifold. Its been a hell of an adventure and i love to see it completed. Congrats team.
You need to re-prop the boat! The props are to large in diameter and with too much Pitch ment for a low speed high torque diesel. Re-prop for your current engines and you’ll get the results you were hoping for.
Thanks for this video series
Have fun with your great team!!
Yes, low RPM and high engine loading with the current prop. Equivalent to shifting your car into top gear and climbing a steep grade. The recipe for detonation and catastrophic failure.
Exactly! It’s so close, just needs some fine tuning!
How do you figure too large diameter though? Thats not necessarily the case if you ask me, its the gearing and the pitch.... You need blade area to handle the power transfer good enough after all.
Another vote for new props. You should aim for about 2 or 3 hundred below max rated RPM for the engines. Cruise rpm (on diesel at least) is somewhere between 80 to 85% max RPM. Additionally, the bow should not be throwing that much water. I suspect the trim tabs being down is what is forcing the bow into the water. The bow should be slightly higher than you have it set for optimum trim. As someone who felt your LS swap idea was not the best decision, I'd have to say, I am impressed with the build and when considering costs, you won the lottery by reducing costs from rebuilding the diesel and the amount of content you generated! I'm happy to see that it is out and about again! I look forward to the video when you get the new props installed and REALLY see what the tops speed is. NOTE: the props will also likely improve your fuel consumption at cruise speed by allowing the engines to operate at a more efficient speed / torque / HP ratio.
His bow is plowing because he is missing a few thousand lbs in the stern.
Never wear shoes on board on a yacht 😇🙏🏻
@@demagescod9657 Well yes, but he also seemed to have the trim tabs deployed by a lot. Which is the very opposite of what you want with too little relative weight in the rear, of course.
Trim tabs were definitely down lmao
These engines are definitely running way below their max. power and probably also max. torque rpm. I don't know the cam setup but I'd guess peak power will be above 4000 rpm for sure. Props with less pitch will definitely improve the boat's perfomance big time.
I can’t even explain how happy this video makes me. I love the trial and error, I love the progress, the grit and reality of it all. Please never stop making boat videos!! Even if it’s just going out for fun
Contact Texas Speed and have them give you the correct full throttle operating range for those engines, and then re-prop the boat to achieve the correct RPMs. I'm guessing at WOT you should be turning about 4,500. Also for top speed runs the trim tabs should be fully retracted, At low speed the tabs help keep the nose down for better visibility and smoother ride. at top speed with the hull fully planed out lowering the tabs just creates drag and slows you down. enjoy your boat. thanks for the great videos.
Hope he reads this post and follows your advise.
For your deck furniture, I would suggest a couple layers of varnish. Also, no shoes on the boat rule needs to come into effect :D
Absolutely #1 rule no shors!!!! Deck shoes only!!!
No shoes!!!
Top Siders from Sperry
If you can't reach your max RPM, you need to have lesser pitched props or just smaller props.
it's clearly geared to go downhill
Definitely the wrong props on there, he should be seeing double that RPM
Smaller diameter props with same/slightly higher pitch might increase efficiency too. The old props are probably for torky low reving motors. I dont think the torque curves are anywhere near a diesel motor on such a low rpm. People forget that torque and horsepower varies a lot on different rpms. Shouting out 1500hp measured at 6000rpm makes little sense when you have half that at 2500rpm.. When done properly you choose an optimum cam for the most torque at cruising speed rpm if overall efficiency is the most important factor.
On these boats a bigger diameter prop is in most configurations beter for efficiency and hole shot . I don’t know the gear ratio but it looks like hey needs to drop about 10 inches of pitch. Or change the gear ratio . Running this setup full trottle with to much pitch on the props can and will hurt the engines !
agreed with the comment here, you may want to talk to a motor shop about the correct props for these new motors
Hey! I’ve detailed boats for years and what I’ve found to work really well is to use some super clean on the floors and then scrub it in really good with a brush and then pressure wash, this works for the seats too but you just can’t let the super clean sit on the fabric too long! Great job
Awesome to see the boat work finally coming to fruition! Excellent job!
way over propped. you need the RPM. Diesel props on gas motors will not work.
who would have thought??? 🤣
Agreed! Getting props though to reach WOT for those motors (5000-6000 rpm) would take a good bit of time to get that boat on plane- would you agree?
@@jackdaily3383 I haven't seen the dyno graph for those engines but I will guarantee you texas-speed has one. Those props should be pitched for right dead nuts in the middle of that camel hump. I will guarantee you it'll get on plane three times as fast as it does now. For some reason I'm thinking 6000 RPM as well. I'm sure those things can handle 8 but six is probably where they peak. What blows my mind here is all the money that was thrown around including given to Texas Speed yet no one questioned the tire size or the rear end gears of this boat.
He has transmissions though so need to account for that too. To elaborate he should prop the boat for the hull and plane speed he wants to run and should have gotten the trans' with the reduction ratio required to be in range for the ideal prop speed.
@@mrjgueret100% this. There is no way he made it to peak torque at that low of RPM.
You might want to consider having the fuel level sender adapter CNC machined. 3D printed parts are not really very well suited to sealing containers as even with 100% infill they can let fluids or vapors through. It will not be cheap, but with how much you have invested in the boat, I think it would be a relatively small cost.
Agree, and the plastic might not be compatible with gas fumes long term. That said, a 3d printed prototype is great to make everything perfect before you spend machinist money!
a turned delrin part would be ideal.
they are fabricators. They can make it themselves. A solid block of UHMW and they can just cut it out. I am not a fan of 3D printed parts. I have had ones that i bought melt and self destruct.
Yeah this happens even with my portable Yamaha fuel tanks for my outboard powered boat. As they age the plastic breaks down a little and lets vapors & fluids out (near the fuel gauge/sender) if the tank is 100% full.
Sendcutsend wouldn’t be too expensive, and they already have a cad file for it
Really cool submarine
Probably the best, easiest, most efficient way to clean the deck is going to be to buy a large (7-8") drill brush attachment for your rotary buffer/polisher. Ideally something with a medium bristle stiffness so that it's not TOO abrasive, but still strong enough to dig into the texture. Obviously help it with whatever nice soapy cleaning solution works best, but I think you'll be really amazed at how well that'll work for you.
Yeah, it's weird that they had the solution and then immediately abandoned it. 😄 what they did worked but the drill worked first. Lol
For your inboard setup, those motors should turn somewhere around 5k at WOT. If they were I/O drives , then you could probably get 6k out of them. Most boaters don’t cruises their boat at 1550rpm for a gas powered, typically cruise between 3200 and 3400rpm. Cruise your boat around there and tell us what your GPH and range is. 2500rpm is not ideal for those motors. You’re working them too hard. You need to change your prop pitch.
This...those motors are being strained. They are not designed to have that much load at that low of an RPM. Definitely going to hurt the engines in the long run.
THIS. ^^
When these engines wear out like start banging rods out lugging them so hard he will be sponsored to get 2 new ones!
Duh
AGREE….NEEDS REVS! 2600RPM is diesel revs
Yes, 3300-3600 is great cruising rpm on my twin 7.4L
This was actually the most satisfying finish of every project you guys have ever done! What a journey. Boat looks like a blast! Congrats!
IKR, it's rare to see all the little finishing touches done on BIFB, normally the projects are "complete" them they just vanish. This sort of final video is much more satisfying.
I am very impressed
with the remodel design.
Great job!
Wow has it been that many years?! Man I have been watching you all for a long time. And I was so happy to see you take on the yacht. I had thoughts of doing this myself, but living vicariously through your team, Ive decided to not get a boat. Enjoy your summer.
Boats are never done. Keep the content coming. Love the boat stuff!
Even if only 10 minutes.
i'd love to see a top speed run but with adequate props and the boat trimmed how it should and maybe change the gear ratio (?) , i think this riva still has a lot to give :)
Hell yea that boat can do a lot more it could do that with one of those motors
yea that thing needs changing gear ratio and props for gasoline engine. 2.5k rpm is to low. i converted my boat from gas to diesel it vent from 1:1.95 to 1:1.158 and prop from 21 to 17 pitch. now with 120hp diesel max speed is 24 miles crosing speed 15-18 and burning like 8 liters of diesel per houer.
Awesome series, sad it’s come to an end but glad you finally get to enjoy it. Good job brother!
I’m not sure what epoxy was used, but most epoxies will fail under direct sunlight. You may want to look into adding a top coat of varnish or another protective layer to protect from the UV rays on that table top. The boat is looking great and I am always impressed with your problem solving!
This is a great story about a man with self confidence, patience, and the strength to carry through against a continuing adversity. Thanks.
For the furniture, stain with no topcoat or clear coat seems like a bad idea. Like a heavy layer of poly or for marine applications, I see people using varnish.
Life's too short for varnishing, especially cheap Ikea stuff. Back to the workshop and spray them with clear epoxy. They will last a lot longer as well.
NB epoxy isn't UV stable. Its good for water intrusion, but needs to be protected from UV by some sort of varnish or pigmented top coat.@@jean-pierredeclemy7032
He also should probably be using the proper plywood and other boards. Teak is a lot more expensive than regular wood but there's not much better for marine applications
Don't spray epoxy. It's terrible with UV exposure. Use spar urethane, or something else that's meant for the outdoors. Regardless, you'll likely need to retreat it every couple of years.
Yes, I was wrong, West System recommend a two pack polyurethane @@sfallier
Awesome as always.Thanks for sharing and taking us along
Let's goooo! Love to see it running and doing what it supposed to do (hosting your friends)!
Drill brush, and comet bathroom cleaner will get the deck clean. Then go back over with a fiberglass polish to remove the scratches so it doesn't get as dirty later on. The metal bushes will leave scratches that will collect dirt and mold.
Also you don't want a black steering wheel in the sun... light colors.
I was about to say just this… those coarse brushes had to have left a grain in the deck
I’ve loved this series! I’ve enjoyed all of your videos over the years and this is a nice little side series away from all of the cars. It’s been so interesting, entertaining and educational. Can’t wait to see all of the future content you and your team decide to produce.
SO happy to see everything finally come together for you guys. What an adventure, congrats! ❤👊
Lots of people have said about props/trans ratios, but it needs to be remembered that all boats have a MHS - Maximum Hull Speed, this is the hydrodynamic limit for the boat to travel at, regardless of how much power gets thrown at it. Yes, those engines are being restricted as should be able to get at least 5000 rpm at full throttle
Great work! For your upper deck, you should consider SeaDek or a similar product. We have the same texture on our boat's floor and we covered it with SeaDek and we could not be happier with the results. It feels great on the feet, is a sound damper, and cleans easily.
Yep. 100% needs to happen
I feel like 3000RPM is low for ls powered boats. The props and final drives should definitly be looked at if all they rev to is 3k. Am I wrong?
Ls boats can go past 4k easily. I'll have to check next time I'm out
I think for something like this yacht, 3000 is decent. He could gear it down a little more to get more speed out of it, but then at high throttle the engines would be revving too high at a cruise, and that would reduce the life expectancy of the engines and burn more fuel at cruise speed, I'd think. So not only is this going to extend the life of these LSX engines, its going to burn less fuel at cruising speed, since engines always burn more efficiently at lower rpm and WOT, lugging is the most efficient zone for an engine but too low of an rpm makes the engine useless and start to burn more fuel again. Generally, peak torque at WOT is the peak efficiency of the engine, its the point of the rpm band where an engine such as the Mazda SkyActiv-X is actually capable of its claimed 57% thermal efficiency, that drops when the rpm dips below peak torque and drops more so when it goes above.
Of course, this also means that Chris has no equivalent "flank speed" to get extra speed by over-revving the engines with WOT, but for a yacht I believe that's just fine. Of course, I am not a boating person, I'm just using what I know of engine science and what little naval trivia I remember :P
He should be at above 7000, most likely... so yes "a bit" wrong...
@@Avetho 3000rpm is not good enough and I will tell you why:
It lugs the engines a lot, he should be at 7000rpm or more with these engines at WOT. Lugging is not good, if not immediately the end of the world.
These engines can cruise a 4-5k easily with the right stuff around them, so gearing down by a factor of more than 2, even 3 isnt a concern.
Less fuel burn for lower revs isnt really true for boats in any meaningful way.
He really need max allowed engine revs (above 7000rpm) to be WOT. that would surely mean a reasonable cruise of 30mph at say 4000 rpm.
@@GoldenCroc Ah, that makes sense, I'm still thinking in tyre diameters instead of prop pitch. Its like a certain amount of knots per rpm, right?
What a great ride this project was! I/we enjoyed the ride for sure. Looking forward to the next project and seeing what upgrades you make for her in the spring. Stay well.
Finally it’s done! Hopefully the car vids come back again!
Love this series…nice work fellas
I love how chelsea gets down and does hard work that's awesome team work.
One thing to add you should of done b is for build on top, Riva
And b is for boat at the bottom before you epoxied it
Im happy that boats is completed and you have happy boating with friends. Life is good. Satisfaction. 👍
How wonderful- Italian style and American reliable power. A pleasure to see things done right.
So happy for you all the work you guys have done came out very well really sweet wish you would’ve done a drone shot with the boat all polish down with your guys on the boat would be nice to see it in the water from a distance
I love to see what toroidal propellers would do for your performance ,noise and fuel mileage. A comparison of old props vs new Torodial props . I bet that video would get a lot of views
Glad to see the boat back to this state FINALLY and improved. Looks great and am glad you guys are enjoying it 😁🖒👊🍻.
I’ve been very hard on you guys about the gas engines. But this comment is to ‘give your props’. Well done. Insane time and effort to make this what you wanted. Congratulations. All the best.
Once you figure out how to run the boat the best, then you need to start figuring out propping to get your best RPM and economy for the vessel. Also if you haven’t already, I suggest taking a marine safety course. Safe boating!
Awesome series, glad you guys finally got it all done.
Was the audio on this (voice) really quite bad though? Was really crackly and sort of distorted compared to normal
It has been awesome to watch you and your journey boatwise and healthwise. Keep going - Its been a blast to see you create this experience. Well done and good luck.
This was a very enjoyable series! Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
You could do some EVA deck foam on your main deck as well as the on top of the sleeper. Boat turned out great!
Great to see it finished. I think next Spring new more efficient props and some ballast to even out the weight distribution of the boat would make all the difference. As a guess, you may gain an extra 2-3 mph at 1500rpm cruise, which equates to a 20-25% increase in your speed aswell as range! A worthy investment. 🇬🇧
Those engines should be cruising at 3500. They are not the old diesels. 1500 is barely off idle for this setup.
To clean the gel coat decks, I recommend a product with "oxalic acid". I use a product called "Star brite Rust Stain Remover". It can be found at any marine store. Spray it on, light scrub with a bristle brush, rinse in 5-10 minutes. Works really well but try to avoid metal and if not, rinse the metal really well.
Great series, really like what you did with the boat. Don't be afraid to publish more boat cruising content (or any boating content).
Riva turned out phenomenal!!!! Love the sound of those LS's too 🥰
Very nice job. I think you have only to add or move weight to the stern and the boat could reach at least 38-40 knots. With the original Cummins diesels the boat is capable of 28 knots crusing and 35 maximum, so, if the propellers are right, and the weight well distributed, this yacht will fly. You can move the water tanks to the stern and keep them always full of water.If you don't need many meters of chain for your anchor, you can reduce them to discharge the bow...
Another expensive way to move weight towards the stern, if there is space, is to mount the engines as close as possible to the stern, using two V-Drive transmissions...
Think he had the trim too far down, made the front drop into the bow wave...
Yes! you dropped so much weight in the rear that you need to lighten the front, load the back, and change props to get the motors turning where they are efficient and make power.
Good post, much better than most here.
Y’all are doing a great job with the boat! You probably need to re prop to make sure you are in the most efficient part of the engines power band vs the diesels which make all power at super low RPM. It will also slow down your idling speed for maneuvering and docking which would be less stressful.
Agree with a lot of the comments. You will likely need new propellers that have the right size and pitch for those engines. Also, if your trim tabs are fully engaged, they will push the bow down which is great for rougher seas. It takes a lot of the bounce out of the boat. For calmer waters, you want the trim tabs only slightly engaged which keeps more of the bow out of the water and increases speed by reducing drag. If your tabs are engaged, you will see the initiation point for the wake closer to the bow (where the water is spraying off the side of the boat). You want that water to be as far aft as possible meaning less of the boat is in the water and it is moving more efficiently. Good job on the build. I enjoyed watching it.
That's a beautiful boat. I worked in a marina for a bit and would see guys working on their boats all the time. Cool seeing a project all the way through in a video.
Hey, for best speed you need to lift the bow with the tabs not force it down. Ideally the spray should appear to be near your wind shield.
Great videos, wish you many happy hours boating.
Chris and Claire
Tabs don’t lift the bow, the tabs can only push bow down.
Correct, but he clearly states he used tabs to lower bow during high speed run which slowed him down considerably
Stain does nothing really for protecting the wood.
You need to put a sealer coat over the top of all that. It will last a lot longer.
Great Boat and great series! Thanks for the ride along!
Love the analogue compass return👌 thanks for listening to the viewers bro we love that
Are the materials marine grade? Talking about carpet, pillows, upholstery etc.
Congrats! This was an awesome series to follow!! Please add a small drip edge on the bottom of the epoxy table! You'll be happy you did when water doesn't pull under the whole thing
Great episode guys! Lots of good stuff.
tons of hard work and perseverance. Very happy for you and the team to have a nice yacht. The good life well deserved. Hope to see you around in Beaverton/Portland
Audio is scuffed
I still think a couple of ford 7.3 or Cummings would have been better.
Or a Cummins
or two duramaxs or two DT466e engines...two school buses...rebuild kits, done.
Might have taken years but this was a great series. Hope you all get a lot of enjoyment out of it your hard labour.
Nice job. Good to see a finish project.
I have enjoyed your channel. I imagine your spinning the propellers from the Diesel engines? They are all wrong for your setup. With Big Block engines you should be turning 4800 to 5200 rpm Wide Open Throttle, WOT. With that setup at that HP you should be top speed of 38-44? Cruise speed will be achieved at 3200-3500 rpm. And the speed will be whatever you get at that rpm. You’ve done a bunch of work, congrats👍🏻
He doesn't have big block engines, so your statement irrelevant.
@@charlieodom9107 It is, but not for the reason you might think. The engines got "big block" capacity, but RPM should be decided by max revs of the engine, likely over 7000 in this case.
You have a point, but its not about "big block" per se, its about the max rpm of the engine, thats where he should be at WOT, with these engines it over 7000 rpm most likely...
I think from you post you are using standard engine "rules of thumb" but they are not really applicable here since its such an unusual case for engines and boat combination.
@@GoldenCroc no, completely wrong. Totally different engines, with totally different RPM ranges.
@@GoldenCroc Max RPM of these engines is certainly NOT over 7k, and NO Big Block engine has a max RPM over 6k. Most are around 5k. This engine is NOT a Big Block, should not be treated as such, and RPM should be based on a dyno graph, not some arbitrary number from a completely different engine.
Check the props thought the engines would get higher rpms
I can't believe the shoes worked sooo well when I saw that.. I thought there was no way those things would work soo well.. I'm flabbergasted... all the flabbergasted!
Well done! ....Happy for you guys for many days of good boating.
Why not install a fuel flow sensor as another way to accurately calculate fuel consumption?
So what happened with the other boat illegally occupying your slip?
Awesome work guys! I'm a big fan of Riva and this one looks fantastic!
Great build guy’s!! Perfect useful purpose boat. Looks good great work
Something is VERY wrong here. Either the props have too much pitch or the transmission ratio is off. Your RPM's with LSX motors should be anywhere from 5,000-6,000 wide open throttle..
geared for diesel i suppose,
Probably those propellers are the original calculated for the lower RPMS and the massive torque of the Cummins diesels.
Even more, above 7000 I should think...
Why only rev to 2500 rpm?
propellers geared stupid long
Congrats dude! Definitely a pretty sick boat. It’s Even better after all your touch’s
You guys killed this project!!
I think you have boost the sound or its your mic that is terrible ,😳😳
Maybe you can fine tune it so it stays in an efficient range while cruising. And maybe you could try a diy toroïdal super efficient propeler.
Have you checked the cam specs? I seen xe (energy) cams, xr (race) cams and xm (marine) cams. It happens that marine cams are desinged to develop maximum torque at lowest rpm possible. If you have race cam and it's always searching for air just to keep rpm needed to cruise, a marine cam will make a huge difference. A cam with such specs will minimise overlap, it should have a conservative duration and wide lobe separation angle. I don't like the dual plenum intake, but if the cam builds vacuum it should help to run smooth. Now that you know that, you may want to choose a set of propelers that will make trust at low rpm. The lower the engine needs to rev the less fuel it will consume. If you want to make a video about a before and after of these mods that would be so awesome. Also you could choose small injectors and adjust the tune so that they open for longer. If you don't have a turbo and won't rev it too high, there will be no need for big injectors and the increased duty cycle with the smaller injectors will help to have a better atomisation by decreasing the dropplets size. If you increase fuel line pressure that could help for that too. Finally, I would try to improve the ignition. If you can run with a lean mixture it will help to have good spark. If you go lean, choose colder plugs and keep it cool with a low temp marine thermostat.
Thank you for fixing the compass.
Hi, once your boats on the plain , raise the trim tabs to level , if you leave them down your creating drag . Tabs help you get on the plain and use in rough weather conditions
props too tall for the reduced torque
Im sorry for this bro. Ive been a follower and supporter of this channel for so many years now. Ive watched all of your videos. But the production value in the latest videos has lade me stop watching them before they were done. BAF video, Audio and editing. You need to invest in the future of this channel with a camera person and editor, or if Else, Im afraid you gonna loose it. And Im rooting for you. Love from norway
Congrats to B and the team ! It is a beauty now ! 👍😎
Hi Chris, You might need a stronger acid than those premixes.
If you go to a hardware store or a pool supply shop, you can get hydrochloric acid, dillute it to 1:10, and apply. Keep it wet, rinse it off, and reapply until you are happy with the result.
Be aware that it can eat/etch the surface.
Also, for organic matter, buy some chlorine from the pool shop, dillute it down to desired strength, a 1% strength of pool chlorine will kill of algae and mould and of course stain any natural fibres so be careful haha.
I do house washing and pressure cleaning, so I use these chems often.
Loving the channel and loving the boat content🤙🏼
If 1.3 miles per gallon is good, then I'm doing fantastic.
Mostly dependent on the weight of the boat. Its as expected, pretty much.
Did you hear this guy? The boat gets 1.3 gallons a mile at cruising speed and he thinks that's okay
That’s not bad for a boat of that size. Mine gets .75 mpg at 28mph
He should have keep it diesel
Nice job on the build!!
Daammm! Loved this episodes.. and love the humble...
audio is total garbage, can't listen to this for an entire hour
OOOOoooo boy that wheel is going to feel GREAT in the sun being black.
I do appreciate that you heard and got the compass! ❤
Great Job Guys! Obviously you know what BOAT stands for. Enjoy your accomplishments!