Re-Floating My 30yr Old Italian Yacht - What Made It Sink?
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- čas přidán 28. 01. 2024
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Fareoh - Cloud Ten - Auta a dopravní prostředky
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man don't you have a shop vac? this would be it's big day..
Need to get the salt water out of the engines ASAP.
@@notsure1872 is the water salty in portland bay? i think it's very possibly a fresh water river/bay area
B is for Bankrupt...Good luck
That's why you winterize or you face your demise. think of it as an RV on the water
100% it was water
Yeah. I laughed.
lol &ice !!!!
Liquid ingress I’d say.
@@trevorockwell8764nope, op correct. It was water.
Something makes me think that you're right...
I’m a boat-owner in Norway.. every fall we shut all valves, empty every bit of freshwater and pump the engines full of anti-freeze. Only way to prevent anything from freezing. When it’s cold enough a heater will not be enough.
Just remove the hose on the raw water intake and put that hose in a bucket of anti-freeze and star the engine..
What he said...👍
A heater will prevent ice lol
@@Gibbbrayden not always a heater can easily be over whelmed
@@GibbbraydenPower failures happen, especially in storms. You want non mechanical solutions when you aren’t aboard all the time.
he is a rich idiot lol he doesn't know to do that stuff
My commercial vessel with down this summer (over 50 feet down). My advice: Pull the boat and take it home. You are under estimating the amount of work to get it back to normal.
You should move quickly to pull EVERY electrical plug connection (yes maybe 100) and blow out and dry it then soak with WD40. Right now every plug and even between each strand of wire is soaked in water. Things are going green. You should keep it warm and super dry for three months minimum. You will likely will have to replace all your relays. Some things will work at first - then break later. Every fluid will need to be replaced. Again take apart and take care of the electrical before corrosion goes crazy! Good luck !
X2
I have a better solution. Sell.
Please don’t give him any ideas to fix it, it just needs to disappear 😂
💯!!
Pull the motors and scrap it…..boat is done. Everything electrical component/relay will have to be replaced 😢
owning and being able to fix a yacht is not relatable but very entertaining
Who commented this 🤣
Who are you?
im sure you guys have a few your self
CZcams intern forgot he was still logged into the business account 😂
Owning the world's largest video streaming platform isn't very relatable, but it is entertaining!
A very common thing boat owners do is called winterising the engine, this consists of running antifreeze through the raw water system to prevent these issues from occurring. Additionally shutting all ball valves helps prevent water getting into the vessel even if you hadn't winterised the engine.
Did he even have a thru-hull shut off valve? Why did he have to reconnect the hose to stop the flow of water into the boat?
no valves obviously
@@BlackheartCharlie
@@BlackheartCharliedoesn't sound like it, every through hull should have a sea cock
@@BlackheartCharlie said early on that the valve was seized.. they are trying to free it at 23:30
@@BlackheartCharlie they had valves on each side but they were stuck.
I live in Switzerland, we do winterized our engines, fill the system with antefreeze, close the intake valves. Allways keep conical wooden plugs on board. On top I have a thermostat driven small heater to keep the engine bay above freezing temperature. Also have an alarm for temperature and voltage that comes on my phone with a daily summary. Plus a flood alarm. Therefore I would have been warned at least at three different levels, one the temperature, then a flood call and when the batteries flooded, a low voltage alarm. And all that for at most 200 bucks.
Well sorry for the crazy birthday. And Happ belated birthday.. mines I the 19th...and I say scrap it save engines..but either way I'm along for the ride good luck
Yup. Also at some point he seemed to imply that because this boat is Italian it wasn't designed with withstanding colder temperatures in mind? Except that various Italian designed and built boats are sold and used all across Europe. This is 100% a failure to prepare correctly on his part.
I was looking for a comment like this with technology today there has to be ways to keep eyes on things if anything just put some Bluetooth camera inside the boat to keep and eye on things at the very least.
-17*f last year at the thermometer, so yes we winterize our boats , remove all water and use glycol.
Swiss precision 👌
regardless of where a boat is built, it has to be maintained for the environment it lives in. Winterizing is a standard process where freezing temperatures are likely and water is involved. Pull those texas speed motors and part ways. That interior material may look good now, but i assume some of it will be laminated materials, which will expand and separate soon enough.
Winterize winterize winterize. Sorry to say it wasn’t the Italian boat or the parts that were the issue it was owner. Hopefully those engines didn’t freeze and crack.
It has the closed loop system where the ocean water cools the coolant and the coolant cools the motor
B is for BUM
WINTERIZE! You can not leave water in any hose or engine compartment. It will freeze and break it. You shouldn't leave the boat uncovered, it will rain, flood and freeze it. This sucks so bad, sorry. This boat will never be the same. All electrical should be redone as phantom electrical problems will haunt you for the rest of your ownership. If you can salvage the motors, the same goes for them. So sad.
@@luisnaranjo4745 but then there would'nt be any content you the youtube. lol. guy is a hack.
Really stoked on the new submarine series on BifB
"Who's the U-boat commander?"
I had a "sinking" suspicion there would be a submarine comment.
I think you need to test some different types of hosing used on a boats cooling system along with different clamps clamping power.
A little bit of mud here and there. Lol, that brown stuff is literally all of their turds mixed together
Too Soon damnit man
Here's an idea instead of a heater for the winter: install a valve at the very start of the raw water system that you close during winter, then drain the system of most of it's water. No water in the system, no ice during winter, no need for a heater.
That's how we deal with water pipes that are partially outside, we close them and drain them of water for winter.
They are there, they simply didn't use them.
Even without draining the system, this would have prevented the boat from sinking after the pipes froze and broke.
How bout putting the freakin thing on its trailer for the winter
@@thomasrudder9639same reason those other boats in the marina aren’t on a trailer.
They have a valve at the start of the inlet but I doubt they have a way to drain the system interior.
I’m glad you got refloated. However, the raw water valve should be made operational. As a boat owner, we close our raw water intake valves when we’re not actively using the boat. You do have to remember to open them before you start the engines.
This is sound advice. I'd be willing to bet those valves haven't been opened for decades. When you park for extended periods, close all thru-hull valves. Use a checklist to make sure you open valves before you start
@tcjatko7964 to right, I'd make a reminder to lay on the dash in big letters "OPEN/CLOSE SEACOCKS BEFORE AND AFTER USAGE"
Dude! Number one rule in yachting always tern your seacocks off when leaving the boat! Get them renewed with some nice bronze fittings. You can even get automatic ones now. Then in the winter just drain down all your water systems. Never have to worry again. Seacocks being left open is always a no no.
But we live and learn. Good to see the boat afloat again 🎉
1000% right! You can't blame parts breaking if you don't eliminate the problem of inattention. If the seacock was closed, a burst pipe would have cost a lot less to repair than having to refloat the boat. Sorry your vessel sank though. Hope you can get her back in shape.
You 100% need to get the raw water valves working on all the through hull fittings and make sure they are closed every time you leave to boat, it wouldn't matter then (apart from breakages) if the pipes froze then but to stop that add a tee just after the intake valve with a hose that you put into antifreeze mix to fill the raw water system.
This. All of this. Would’ve saved so much headache and money
Hindsight is 2020 but yes close those valves when you're not on the boat. Ice is only one problem but mice or old hoses, on and on. It's a cheap part that gives you a lot of insurance.
Yeah, I genuinely don’t understand how you can leave your boat with thru-hulls open, wtf
and use freeze resistant valves, valves like those love to split open when you shut them full of water and it traps water in it
But why you keep the boat in the water when you know the temperature can go below freezing point ? Where I’m from it’s not a option to keep it in the water but even if it was I would pull out the boat as soon as the season is done
The best boat is a friends boat.
You have read the very correct comments about closing through hull valves & winterising properly. All raw water hoses should have double hose clamps and they should be replaced regularly. More boats sink through a failed hose clamp than any other reason, with failed hoses a close second.
One thing you might consider: Install raw water pickups with integrated seacocks (shutoff valves). And then use them. Anytime the boat is not in use (and especially in cold weather) shut those valves. Eliminates sinking risk from the entire raw water side.
I don’t mean the be the wise guy here, but here in Germany sort of the first thing we learn is „when ever you leave the boat, close all Valves to the exterior“. Even with freezing water damage that would habe kept the boat from sinking. Maybe you should add that to your leave the boat checklist. But all the best repairing it. I can’t wait to see the videos :)
That's a hard lesson he just learned by being a new boat owner lol
My question exactly: were there no sea cocks or were they just left open?
If the boat is in the water unattended for any longer time (and in my case, that's often just from Sunday night to Friday evening) - close all the sea cocks. There are just too many hoses attached with hose clamps that might fail.
Those of us that stay in the water in winter will hopefully have frost safe sea cocks (which do not have a closed off water volume in them) and, if there's a larger volume of water on the inside, added antifreeze if leaving the boat for a long time.
Heating to keep the inside just above freezing is also not a bad thing.
And of course the small, closed off water volumes in pipes freeze quicker than the lake water, as it has a much larger surface per volume.
Oh man! Don't worry about making the fiberglass clean and pretty. Try to save those two LSX engines, which are likely full of kinda salty water. Drain them, empty the oil, take out the plugs, send a scope down the cylinders, flush them out...
The willamette isn’t salty….but it IS a federal superfund site and the mud on the bottom is considered hazardous waste.
They’re onto as much as they can handle, I’m sure they’re aware of all the problems they need to take of and the most important is making sure it doesn’t morph once again into a submarine. 😁
Engines need to be pickled with diesel ASAP.
Maybe the idea is to clean the back and then cleaning the engines
@Ieo9017 shhhhh, those walking fish glow for unrelated reasons
Hi Mr. Build. I am an old boat guy and I,m sorry that your boat sank. We have some of those Rivas here in Norway too. I followed your installation of the two Racing engines really meant for boats of a bit lesser wheight, but ok. Nice Holley injection system by the way. BUT - I have to admit that I was chocked to see how you choosed to leave your boats MAIN COOLING to two small eletric pumps with a lot of connection adapters and various hose clamps. I said to my wife that this is far too little cooling of the exhaust tubes and also possible source for a catastrofic leak. You have to install a clean connection from your raw water inlet routed directly to an engine driven Jabsco Raw Water pump and remove that horrible electric pump toy-intallation. Often used though on some similar engine sollutions in light racing boats with dry exhaust blowing out from headers, but never, ever on a Yacht in the tons class for long haul cruising. There are several ways of intstalling an engine driven and real raw water impeller pump without using any belts and pulleys. You can find a sollution coupled with a bracket directly to the crank in front of the engine using the high rpm type of impeller pump. Volvo Penta have such a sollution. Do NOT do it the cheap way, DO IT THE RIGHT AND PROFFESIONAL WAY, please. It's a nice boat you have and it deserves a secure installation of your main cooling system!! I noticed that there are far to little water coming out of your exhaust underway. The only way you don't get engine overheating is because you have some enormous heat exhangers from the Cummins Diesels, which is good. And the familier Crusader Exhaust Manifolds..
Please finnish the marinizing of your engines professionally. And - Do not forget to close the raw water intakes when leaving your boat.
Otherwise, You have been very clever in cleaning out after the disaster. 🙂
First of all, we all need an Oscar in our lives.
I don't know much about boats but I'm learning a bunch from watching this series. What a wild and expensive lesson to learn but it seems like a lot of people have had similar issue who live even further north than Portland. I vote to bring B is for Boat back, but that's easy to say when it's not my money. What I can say is your attitude is incredible. In the face of adversity, you manage to stay focused and positive. This is why I love B is for Build and continue to be a fan after all these years. Love it!
Flooding alarm with cell phone notification might be a good upgrade. A good selection of wood taper plugs and mallet is a must have for marine damage control.
Regardless of the notification it would have still have went under water
This only works if you do all the proper steps as a boat owner which Chris doesn’t know much about.
@@stevennagley3407I use siren marine for that. My boat has multiple bilge pumps that would be able to handle the situation until i can get to it. The alarm goes off way before the boat is in danger of sinking.
@@stevennagley3407 Nonsense, Those leaks were minor and it took hours, if not days, before the boat sank enough for water to go over the gunnels. This is a case of not knowing combined with, what is worse, not caring.
@@philmann3476 it took hours is not days? Did you actually watch the whole video, this happens in minutes and most an hour
I own a boat similar in size to yours. It was in the water a few years ago while temps got down to zero for several days. You have to winterize all those lines by filling them with non-toxic antifreeze. You must have working seacocks to close them off from the outside water. You can then use a pump to fill all those hoses and the raw water side of your engines with antifreeze. You might want to consult with a marine mechanic who can explain the details. The raw water "filters" are called strainers. Once your system is closed off, you can remove the water from them and pour in anti-freeze. Heat alone is not the answer because heat rises and and the boat plumbing is very low. You will find it doesn't warm much, if at all. The heaters also present a fire danger and many marinas won't allow them.
Finally, a comment from someone who actually knows what they are talking about!
Spot on.
All the marinas I know require you to have your seacocks closed and engines winterized if the boats in during the off season. Also heaters are only allowed if they are not open flame and must not be run off an outlet in the boat. Instead they must be on an extension cord going directly to a pedestal
You should pull the displays, and the ECUs out and make sure they are 100% dry and then test them out side of the boat. Id definitely change that oil and get the engines running asap. The residual water will evaporate out when they are running.
I can't imagine the frustration and disappointment you must be feeling after all the hard work you put into this project. But your positive attitude and determination to resolve the issues is truly admirable. Just remember, setbacks are a part of any journey, and it's how we handle them that defines our character. Keep pushing forward, and I have no doubt that you will overcome these challenges and get the boat back to its former glory. Stay positive and stay motivated!
Chris: I'm in Vancouver and am on my 8th cruising boat. If you want to talk about stuff to do (and not) let me know. I'm retired and not affiliated with any shops (be careful there!). I'm happy to go over some of the challenges (esp. electrical) and stuff over coffee. Best of luck !
I reckon the electronics will be ok if he lets them dry fully before powering on and didn't power-wash anything too hard 🤞 It's not salt water so shouldn't be very conductive. What do you think?
@@samhorne5184Doubtful in the long run, sadly. Thats what I think.
Winterizing your boat is important LOL. I'm in NY so its common practice to circulate Marine antifreeze through the system every year for winter storage.
He is no boat guy so he missed it.
A little bit of mud here and there. Lol, that brown stuff is literally all of their turds mixed together
@@ProctoLogic Considering he was concerned about "cracking engine blocks" in so many of his project cars, meaning they had water as coolant in winter... he doesn't seem like much of a car guy either.
True, he's mainly a youtuber I guess.@@Tebbylous
Aren’t boats fun!
Im sure you have heard this, but you should install a shut off valve right after your raw water thru hull fitting. Then during the winter, you can shut that off, and drain out the rest of the raw water in the system.
will keep things like this from happening, and will help with maintenance in the future.
Been watching this project from the beginning. It's heartbreaking. Your ability to stay positive and keep filming is amazing.
My advice is wash the electrical stuff with hose water then use an electrical spray as soon as the boats afloat it will save everything if you leave it for a day or 2 then it will need a full rewire
@@Asphaltracergamerabsolutely he just needs to keep the power off till it’s clean and dry
@@doubletapthat2315and he needs to be quick i guess 2days and SMD components will be trashed.
Everyone is forgetting that it’s salt water, those harnesses are screwed
@@mille924 Not sure that it is salt water. They brought the boat back from the mouth of the Columbia to near Portland. Not sure how far the brackish water goes but he is ~100 miles from the mouth of the river and the ocean.
Replace all of the wiring and electrical components it’s all stuffed. You’d be fighting gremlins forever if you don’t.
You need to get those engined drained, drain oil pan, open cylinders, get lubricant in cylinders, and get them turning over if you have hope of saving them. Heating in boat would be nice, but only if you can have wifi temp sensors to send you an alarm if it gets too cold.
After clearing the cylinders and draining the sumps, fill the oil sumps with diesel fuel and run it. Change sumps and repeat until all traces of water are gone.
My first thought
its a modern version of Farley Mowats " The Boat that wouldn’t float". if those shutoff valves worked, you would shut them off, pull the caps on those filters, and fill the raw water system with RV "Environmentally Safe" Antifreeze and then leave it. same thing your going to need to do with your home built RV if you leave it outside in the winter. but good on your guys for persevering, and experience is the best teacher.
Heaters will not be enough. It will still freeze. You need to drain the system and flush the engines with antifreeze like we do here in Alaska. Drain every bit of freshwater and fill the engines full of anti-freeze. Remove the hose on the raw water intake, put it in a canister of anti-freeze, and start the engine to run it through the system. It's the only fail-safe way for it to work. Also, use an electronic water sensor switch for the bilge pumps. There are no mechanical parts. When the water contacts the metal tab it detects the water and turns on the bilge pumps. They can't freeze stuck. I use them on my commercial fishing boat in Alaska.
You could always close off the water valve, drain the system and put plumbing antifreeze in it. That’s what we do with our boats here in Canada.
Before winter you should always prep your boat this includes closing the water valve and open the filters and poor ant freeze in them start the engine til anti freeze poors out of the exhaust shut the engine of and its ready for winter 👌 without a heater plus for the toilet use a non toxic anti freeze its available at the boat store 👍
The feeling of joy and satisfaction I get when I’m done WINTERIZING my boat is calming
THat "uphill water" is just because the road below it (closer to you) is actually sloping away to the right of the shot, given an optical illusion the road with the water is dropping away to the left when actually its level.
I'm glad to see you got it floated again. The fact that it's fresh water and not salt is going to prove to be a godsend when it comes to repairs. Salt water would be a nightmare! My one question is: why weren't the thru hulls closed. I've always thought it was standard practice to close all thru hulls if you leave the boat for more than a day or two. Even in tropical regions you never know if a clamp or hose is going to fail and if you're not there to monitor it, closing those valves is cheap (free) insurance.
They were seized so they physically couldn't close them, something that definitely should've been fixed when it was out of the water
Thru-hulls. Most important thing on a boat and the thing that must always be closed. I check every thru-hull each and every time I leave our boat. Sorry this happened your boat.
The plumber in me would like to add that frequently opening and closing the valve will do more to keep it smooth without obstruction when you need it. The ball valves that I could see, had some visible rust on the handle and stem area- which would make me ask if they were "marine rated" or listed. I've worked on oil field service boats and fishers- many have "repeater valve handles" for them located near the bridge and in sight of the helm. I would advise an alarm that has a feature that "notifies you" via text message on both the water level and the heater he is proposing.
He clearly did it for insurance, clear negligence.
@@borandagio807 I highly doubt it. I suspect it's something he didn't know he should do. He's dabbling in a very expensive hobby with a steep learning curve. It's an expensive mistake and no insurance company on the planet is going to pay out once they see that video and learn the through hulls weren't closed when he left the boat.
Always shut your seacocks before winter hits. Water strainer filter holders, plastic or glass, need emptied during winter when not in use, or they’ll shatter. Been there, learned that.
Chris the eternal optomimist. You can tell character when you're under pressure, and you my man are a champion!!
Marine Tech here; that AC/DC panel is going to need a lot of attention. Those breakers likely won’t last long once they dry out and I highly recommend replacing them all along with any other closed components therein. Switches/fixtures in general are hit/miss after being submerged but usually are a replace item depending what they are.
Battery chargers/inverters/amplifiers/unsealed batteries/unsealed electronics are immediate replace items.
Anything being left would do well with a coating of dielectric grease and CRC power lube to prevent future corrosion.
Also, installing a bilge water level alarm is a great safety item if you’re onboard or away.
Adhesives for interior items tend to give out after sinking, so be aware of things coming apart-especially laminated surfaces.
Dry her out-mold/mildew sets in fast.
Pump the fuel & water tanks, clean & sanitize respectively.
Also, get the water out of that engine ASAP, internal rust will happen way too fast and kill an engine. I run oil/diesel mix (~70/30 ratio) at least three times through an engine with filter changes before leaving with straight oil and being done. You can run them off an outboard tank (2-stroke mix) to accomplish this and be sure to get them to operating temp in this process. No high RPM, just raised idle to get things moving and warm.
He’s more concerned about electrical and 99% of that is toast. Immediately, he needs to get all the water out of the cylinders, manifolds and crankcases and spray preservative or it’ll be a corroded mess. Because of all the silt, he probably needs to pull the engine and disassemble.
This breaks my heart… I watched this build for 3 years, and then this. Sorry brother… you guys put in so much work. : (
The fact thay you were able to stay upbeat for this video is a real credit to you man.
Im sure this was really tough to see your hard work ruined, but the fact that you are able to be so positive is really cool man.
Hope it all works out for you.
That boat to these guys is like a kayak to normal working guys like myself. Hey it's all content at the end of this and they will still make huge checks for there boat education.
he gets so many views/money from these so its still a win
probably waiting for his check from insurance.
Glad you got her refloated. Now you can put the Cummins engines back in!
B is for builders full of customization that we can use in our own lives. As we watch this unfold as a tragic situation, it’s a learning moment for many people. Such an interesting term of events. Oh, and if everyone had an Oscar in their lives, everyone would be a superhero.
Great work on the fridge oscar , looks clean
Being positive like Chris in such a situation is not easy. Really cool man!
i'm surprised he was so calm through all of this
Always winterize and close the seacocks in the winter if you're not gonna be active. This also is why boats come out of the water when it's winter in Chicago.
Swapping the diesel engines for gasoline ones was a bit of a giveaway.. i like your car projects!
B is for Bilge!
Good luck!
A little bit of mud here and there. Lol, that brown stuff is literally all of their turds mixed together
To winterize that type of system, you use an expandable plug with an air line in the raw water outlet, pressurize the system until the exchanger empties, then the sea strainer, and then it bubbles out the raw water intake. At that point, close the raw water intake valve.
Make a series of re-restoring the boat I’ll watch anything you put out and I feel like that’s a great way to recoup your losses
As a viewer I am emotionally invested, and this is just heartbreaking, condolences from the couve.
When you haul it out, replace your through hull valves and make it a habit to close them as part of your departure routine. You could also add a blow-down connection to remove the bulk of the water from that system when leaving it in the cold months.
If you are planning to leave it in the water during winter time I suggest having valves you can shut off to winterises and NEVER forget to use antifreeze
Replace the stuck valves also.
No kidding!
That was quite the emotional roller coaster. Felt great watching it float again then watching you plugging that hose was SUPER stressful!! Good job guys!
I keep 120V shore powered block heaters plugged in year round on my twin CAT 3406's here in Seattle. They love staying warm. The heated engine blocks actually keep the entire engine bay warm. The heat transfers through the cooling system enough to prevent freezing even in the raw water system. Take the trip to check on yout boat weekly.
Always winterize your boat… turn off shutoffs and drain the water lines and the motor, put stabilizer in the fuel so it doesn’t gel. That’s boat ownership 101 but you’ve learned the meaning of BOAT: Break Out Another Thousand
I think this one is going to be more than just a thousand. 😀
he does not live where the temps get anywhere near low enough to freeze gas. gelling is a diesel issue
Bust out another ten thousand, in this case, it seems
Would be interesting to see the state of the engines. I’m sure at least 1 valve was open. I’d be pulling spark plugs and checking for water. Then drain oil, and put penetrating oil in the chambers to prevent rust.
They are 100% both full of water. That's 1 thing I would've done as soon as it was floating on its own. Drain the oil, pull all the spark plugs, spray wd40 inside the cylinders, turn the crankshaft a few times.
I'm thinking that too. I would leave the upholstery. There is 100 grand worth of engines, pull the plugs and drain oil asap. Get them turning over and oiled.
Really? Boat still sinking and somehow the engines shall be the most important thing to care about? Pulling the spark plugs on the bottom of the marina would be a fun task...
That boat and the engines are worth enough money that if the owner doesn't have the immediate time available, they would be wise to hire people to get the water out of everywhere asap.
The engines can only be saved if the water is removed, oil added everywhere (including plug holes) and they are attempted to be started within a day or less in my experience.
The damage to the interior, including mold growing inside the walls, cushions, etc, can be greatly reduced if they install a few large dehumidifying heaters and leave them running for weeks.
The electronics is the stuff that I find is a gamble. The faster and better you remove the moisture the better, but salt water can leave a conductive film and cause short circuits.
After initially drying everything rapidly, I've seen electronics brought back to life if, before being powered on, it is removed, rinsed in distilled water and dried again first.
@@cohimo once the boat was semi floating yeah, engines are most important, forget the boat looking clean, pull plugs and spin them over to atleast begin getting water out , they were just cleaning the sofa out
I would guess that everything wood or wood-ish (particle board, MDF, etc) is going to be trash in the cabin. All that swelling is not going to reverse. It’s a terrible loss but could be a great series to gut the cabin and rebuild. Sorry for your loss, Chris!
This video broke my heart. This boat got me committed to your channel. Love your car videos too but the boat started it all for me
Yup definitely need to winterize your boat and it's usually common practice to run space heaters and dehumidifiers through the winter.
You knew the comments were going to fly. One thing for sure, as a boat owner, is most of what you learn you learn from experience. This type of stuff happens to the best of us and what's the saying "hindsight is 20/20". It will be interesting to find out what works and what doesn't because alot of owners would be done with boating or on to a new boat at this point. Personally I'd be right with you figuring it out. That's what your channel is all about anyway. Good luck. Hope to see her back and better than before.
More video content that will yield revenue to pay for this "accident".
2 things on a boat
1- billage pumps are a must!
2-winterize winterize
Any boat can survive winter. You just have to drain water or put heat in it.
It’s exactly like a pool strainer. If it freestyles it bust.
Followed you for many years, will do for many to come but i have to say this was the episode that had me the most hooked.
It’s a write off ,full rewire , motors will have water in them , you should know that. Good luck , get out , it will catch fire 🔥. Get rid off it ,big money even if you try there is going to be places you can’t get too as they are wired , then sandwiched together ! So good luck bro 😎
Yep. It’s junk
Yep. It’s junk
100% junk
Two Texas speed flood motors in two salvage flood cars! Sema build!!!!
The water has probably expanded inside the engine as well ... ice can break a heavy steel Diesel engine, a aluminium engine will not stand a chance.
@@buddy1155 the whole thing is a total loss
I never thought I would be seeing a boat attempting to re-float. You never fail to surprise us
22:00 as soon as you said this boat was in seattle, i knew i saw it in person when i was younger. I remember it driving roughly four hundred yards away past me and my grandfather out fishing.
In Finland we lift our boats from water before winter. That saves you for a lot of trouble.
Same deal for most private vessels in New York. I guess the expense for storage/lifting might be a bit more for a boat like this^ compared to a 27ft fishing boat, but either way its cheaper than replacing internals.
Same in Canada but I guess it doesn't usually get that cold in Portland so they don't
Replace the valves so you can close them, and a port to blow out the water in the system so there isn't any water to freeze.
This.
This.
Fantastic video especially under the circumstances. Very honest and detailed explanation of what went wrong, as a boat owner I've learned a few things.
Man it looks cold! You guys have such a positive attitude I love it.
Of all the builds that seem to be forgotten and never seen again this damn boat won't go away.
It sure tried to go away. And become a submarine
The other option is to take the boat out of the water during the winter of course - which if you're not going to use it then anyway, is the safest/simplest option.
Part of the problem with that is then he has the added cost of paying for both the slip and storage on the hard at the marina. The Marina might not even have dry storage there, so he would have to go to some other marina that does. It the boat was trailerable, it would be different, he could pull it out and park it at the shop, but there is no trailer with this boat and it would probably take a semi to trailer it.
then he would have to pay for the boat slip or loose it aswell as storage fees
@@moparjr89 yes. But it's still the safest and simplest option.
Even with the boat out of the water you need to winterize all fresh and raw water systems if you are in a freeze area.
in his defense no one around him took their boat out
I definitely learned alot from you on this whole boat project, ans the information shared here. Thanks and i wish you well on this recovery
Whenever winterizing a boat. Run the engines with rv antifreeze through the top of sea strainers with the sea valves closed so you pull the antifreeze through the engine. untill it starts puking it out the exhaust. You will never have an issue of it freezing. That’s what us Alaskans do.
In Norway (cold af), we use something like seacock valves on EVERY hole to water in the boat. We close these when we leave the boat - also in summer - to minimise the risk of sinkage due to hoses, sight glasses etc. failing. In winter, the toilet gets a dash of antifreeze (or you take it apart to remove water). We don't as much use heaters, but a low consumption dryer (Dehumidifier with drying rotor, to avoid moulding)
Yea, I do the same, every time
You have the best attitude. I would have been cursing and probably crying a little... You are the man.. You also have the best friend with Oscar. Bless you two.
Appreciate you sharing. No one is perfect. We all live and learn from our mistakes. I really hope everything works out for you my friend.
RIP Boat 😢. I'm a marine engineer, if you can't haul a boat out for the winter onto hard standing then it's always going to be an issue in climates where there is a risk of freezing.
Always shut stop cocks and through hull fittings even in summer. Drain all fluids where possible and especially the raw water system.
We had a customer who launched a brand new boat but forgot to put the drain bung in and before it had been in the sea 30 min the engine was submerged. Hauled it back out on the crane and drained, washed it off several times including with detergent. Dried it for several hours with a leaf blower and it was the summer then put a electric fan heater in for 3 days and then coated every surface with cans of spray grease and WD40.
Changed the starter, alternator and sensors.
By the time it was a year old it was knackered, the salt had got to the paint on the engine, gearbox, engine mounts, wiring loom and every inch of steel.
Glad to see your high spirits. Before powering the electronics, pull out the ECU's and Holley system and get them cleaned out and dried. They could still be in good condition, but if you send full power to them with water damage you can fry them. Hope to see the boat running again.
Drop everything in bags of rice, it works!
Skip rice and buy water absorbing beads to use in gun safes etc. Works waaaaaaay better
Yeah, silica beads. An asian wholesaler should stock bulk amounts of pcu or equivalent.
To winterproof it you just close the shutoff valves and clear the water out of the filters and hoses. That way there is nothing to freeze.
Here in euope we also close the valves for waterfaucets outside and open the faucets so there is no water to freeze. No need for any heating. When spring time comes just open the valves, bleed the system if necessairy and you are ready to go.
You are doing a good job of staying positive. Sorry about the boat.
That’s why you are supposed to double clamp hoses for under the waterline
Sorry to see all the damage from the sinking of "B is for Boat" . Time for a new name " S is for Submarine". Glad you got it back afloat, the damage you will find is going to be extensive. Wiring, wood etc. is going to be destroyed. Its time to haul the boat and start repairs. The engines need to be broke down as soon as possible to see if there is anything that can be salvaged. Good luck and wish you the best.
good progress. Get the water out of the engines, remove the spark plugs, oil in the bores, turn over by hand, drain all the oil and then fill the engines to the brim with oil until you're ready to get them running.....
I'm a boat owner in Puerto Rico and all this is learning to me, wish you the best guys
And a good idea to do an inspection stem to stern after voyage, just like Titanic, Sound the Hull
Sounds like you're learning how to winterize a boat the hard way. 🇨🇦
Nice job wrecking those LSX's.
As a retired Chief Marine Engineer, you MUST close the main hull inlet valves EVERY TIME you shut down the engines! And close every hull valve before you leave the boat!
The main component of DampRid is calcium chloride, aka ice melt. If you fill a cheap mesh trash can with the calcium chloride flakes and elevate it over a basin it will absorb a lot of the moisture and help the dehumidifier work for 1/20th of the price of actual DampRid
Everybody needs a friend like Oscar! Tough break but at least you re-floated the yacht. Good luck with the rest.
Dude built a boat, left it floating in the winter and didn’t consider freezing lines. Unreal. Entertaining for us but man, all that work out the window. You can tell he is not a boater
Considering he was having to rush around to save engine blocks from cracking on all his project cars ... is he much of a car guy either? Ah well. Like you said; entertaining for us.
Hey Chris. From an experienced boat owner: You might want to place ball valves on all of your water inlet points right at the hull inlets. This way you can shut them off for the season and prevent this in the future. Best of luck on this one.
I like tge progress. Take the boat out of the watter. It will seem expensive at first but much cheapper and easier in the long run. Good luck :-)
I used to keep a couple 60 watt work lights lit in in my engine compartment during the winter. They kept it warm enough.
First things first.Where the raw water comes into the boat,there should be a valve between the inlet and the strainer.Its called a Seacock.Goodluck its s beautiful boat.
There are seacocks installed, but they were left open.
This is why I slept on mine on the coldest night of the year!