Sunhokey reprap Prusa i3 3D Printer: Calibration, Settings, Your First Print!
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2024
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the paper spacer trick is exactly what i needed to figure out my leveling, thank you.
Very helpful video! Thanks for creating it.
Great tutorial man. I've got one of these coming in as well in a few days so I'll be keeping an eye out for more stuff from you.
+ReedWhaley Awesome!
Freaking awesome man! Great instruction video.
+Preston Jackson Thanks!
Wow, what a great video, it helped a lot.I just got that model and this comes very handy.,regards!
+El Cubo del Narco Thank you!
Great video, about to set up a "first print" now. Nice FRC medals in the back :D
+Mark West Haha, Thanks! Are you on an FRC team?
Excellent video, thanks....
buen dia, puede hacer el favor de compartir las configuraciones, gracias
Do you mean the printer software settings?
Great video thanks
Thank you!
nice vid thanks
A little old, but just saw it. I like that clear acrylic. Your spool was off one of the wheels....
Hi, this is a great video. I was given one of these (the Perspex ones) but the control unit is different. It’s needed some parts making for it and I think it may have a software glitch which I wanted to look at trying to find the correct software to reinstall onto the printer.
Do you:
1) know where I can get the open source software from? And what version is needed?
2) where I can get a control unit like the one you have as the one I have is on its last legs and could do with being replaced.
Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated
Please make a video on how to calibrate it using pronterface and with the x,y and z dimensions
Nice video. Filament only needs to be stored if not getting used for a long period of time. Watching most 3D printing CZcams professionals, they do not store filament in a bag, they have them stored on a rod hanging on the wall etc, out in the open. Still a good idea if it's not going to be used for months. At work I've had some left on a cart for a year and it still worked just fine, was a little more brittle but only broke once at that start of a print. Some brands are worse than others. You get what you pay for. Keep up the great vids.
great video mate. just setup my first printer, a prusa i3 kit. Having trouble getting it to start printing as the bed and extruder aren't heating at all when I click start print in the repetier software. I'm going to try via sd card method.
Let me know how it goes!
So far as I am aware Restore failsafe will use Configuration.h file for setting, which you may have changed. This may not be the same as the Factory default setting
When i send my nozzle in home mode , my nozzle the Z axes is to low 2-3mm and is scraping the plate . How can i set a new zero to my Z axes ?
i have this printer and just not using it, ¿can you tell how to calibrate to print "bridges" ? i cant print anything if is not solid, if it the print has to unite one side to other it just sags, and start doing a mess
Great tutorial videos! I just bought the same exact model and just starting with the hobby. Can I request to cover videos relating to 3d printing softwares? i'm a mac user btw.
I'm glad you like my video! I did do a video on what software I use and what software I use to create models. I am a mac user too, so everything I do should work for you! you can check out those videos on my channel.
Frank Paz bhai pls tell me software name ?
thks for the tutorial, very helpful. i have a question: the PLA cable broke at the entrance of the nozzle , and now can't pull it out.
Try using some needle nose pliers to pull it out.
Thanks , great explanation of the LCD Screen. I am setting up a printer like yours. What holds the smooth rods in place on the built plate? Getting to my first print but the rods are moving. Any ideas ?
the smooth rods are being held in by a piece of acrylic that pushes against the ends. you should look at the video where I talk about the upgrades I made. I show how to fix another problem with the bed. thanks for commenting!
thanks for replying, looks looks looks like the LCD is in front, mine is mounted on top, next "PRUSA I3"> So what is holding the smooth rods, yours in the back looks like its against the wall. My smooths rods just keep falling out of the holes. And I only have 2 rectangular acrylic pieces ( 1.5"x.5 " ) remaining. And I already tried lubricating the rods
+Ron D you should have 4 acrylic pieces. you could hold the rods in with tape and 3d print 2 new end caps.
hello, Could you send me the files of the modifications that you have made to the printer? the LCD screen support, the fan and if you have anything else ... thank you very much
great video, it help but i have a a8 printer, i just replaced the hotbed, and the anet card, (red) i go to pre-heat, the screen goes blank, sugesstion on whats wrong?
You might have wired the hotbed wrong. Try checking all the connections, too.
Hi, when i start my print from autohome, the print doesn't start in the middle but instead starts printing at autohome, is this something that needs to be fixed when modelling in the software or is this sometthing that needs to be changed in the firm ware. thanks!
That should be in your slicer. Check that it prints in the center of the bed and not at the home point.
Hey,
When calibrating the height, I home every thing, turn the steppers off and do the paper calibration and get it where its just pinching the paper. Then when i hit Print it starts in a much higher position then the calibration I just did any ideas?
Also When im printing i occasionally hear a clicking sound like the filament is skipping then it will go OK unsure if I need to do any thing to solve that too?
So you might have to adjust the Z end stop. The nozzle and bed should be calibrated so they are level, but the Z axis hight might not be. When a print starts, adjust the Z axis end stop until the nozzle lays down a good first layer. That should fix it. Also, the clicking is the feed motor skipping because it can't push out any material. This can be fixed by re-calibrating your Z hight, or changing up some settings on your slicer software.
Hello, my belt keeps vibrating when printing and x axis and y axis are very loud. I wonder if it is mechanical problem or software problem. I can see your printing is very smooth. The belt doesnt vibrate at all. Please tell me how to solve. Urgent plsss
Steven Lee Your belt might not be tight enough, so tighten the tension screw. Also, make sure that you are using the right belt with the right gears.
3D Now I hear another fix is to print a cover for the bearing that adds teeth so the belt doesn't rattle on a smooth bearing. I've seen a lot of those on thingyverse.
How are you getting such a nice build quality? Every print I've made has been really stringy and rounded,
Make sure your temperature is correct, your nozzle size is correct, the calibration is good, and the filament you are using is high quality.
So much acrylic, so little calibration. How about measuring the filament, checking extraction rate and xyz stepping?
Dude what FRC team are you from?
HI Sir can you help me to setting my i3 prusa board firmware
Hi excellent video for a first time user. I bought a zonestar p802qr2 and it seems that there is only a y and z axis limit switch. Is a z limit switch a must? When I press auto home the head goes to a position that is outside the bed
Any printer should have 3 limit switches for x, y, and z axis
@@3DNow , awesome! And is there a way on these firmware to adjust the home position and have it saved?
The limit switches should be the home point. To adjust the bed, just turn the screws to raise and lower it.
@@3DNow thanks! And so when the head is at home position the bed should be 0.1 mm from it? Is that how the printer should always start off?
Yes! The width of a piece of paper.
What software did you use for the auto-home? I don't see that option on my sunhokey i3.
I didn't use any software to auto home. It is built in to the settings. Click the button, then prepare, and auto home.
+reThinkTech Weird. Mine doesn't. Marlin 1.01 firmware, arrived on Monday and finished building it yesterday :) I'll tinker with it later after I solve a problem with the MKS board voltages.
Seems like when I print the apron ist fine but wen it comes to the part looks like the Nozel is to hight of print🤷♂️
why my setting baudrate on 115200 always close program, and i change to any value is " no signal detected - force start " but its connected and always waiting for a long time, any help bro ?
Dwianggoro Pradhipta What do you mean?
hey i just finished building my printer can you please help me how setu up the lcd screen. on youtube I saw some examples, but in my Arduino program I don't see the configuration tab please help
You just have to plug it into the control board.
my printer has a pcb build plate and it came with a piece of glass with masking tape on it and some binder clips. what is the glass for? do i use the binder clips to attach it to the pcb or do I put masking tpe on the pcb and print on it ?
Ciarán Farley-Toone You can use the glass bed by itseif or the tape on top of the glass. The clips are to keep the bed in place.
So I should not use just the PCB with tape? I need the glass ?
Ciarán Farley-Toone either is fine
Thanks
hey is there any chance you could do a tutorial about updating the firmware.
I'll look into that. Thanks!
+3D Now yeah it would be great because most of the ones I have seen are outdated. thanks .
hey jack, i got a geeetech prusa i3 but when i got it i dodnt get a software disk, links or anything... would you have a (or know where to find) a set of config files that can just be uploaded to an GT2560 rev a. board. with no work done to it.
Jason Shook the control board came with no software? It should come pre installed
czcams.com/video/iJuvksXBLuw/video.html here ya go im in contact with the seller but at the same time the same point gets across
See what the company says. This might help as well. czcams.com/video/3gwWVFtdg-4/video.html
3D Now
Hi Jack.
I have just assembled my Geeetech i3 pro b and my first print was flawless. however since then I cannot get my PLA to stick and if it does the print ends up being a huge mess with a perfect bed. I have tried adjusting the temps but still no luck.... it seems to me that the filament coming out is way too thin.... can you please help?.... thanks for the vid :)
Brett Plowman.
Brett Plowman try cleaning your nozzle out. Then use a new layer of painters tape and wipe it with rubbing alcohol. Let me know if it works!
Thanks heaps Jack ..... will let you know :)
Brett.
I was wondering if you know what I should do if on the main screen display it says ERR: MAX TEMP
Try going into the control menu and changing the max temp to a higher number. If that does not work, try replacing your thermoster.
Don't have this exact kit (have another reprap i3 prusa kit) but believe as reThinkTech said this may indicate the thermistor that measures the temp on the hot end or heated bed (if this has one) may have been disconnected or just have some physical problem.
hey could you build a enclosure for this printer it would be so convenient and a great tutorial . please
I can build a box around it and make a video but it might not be for a while.
+reThinkTech cool thanks man tag me if you do so on the comments thanks
I second this request. I just bought it and would like to ensure other items don't hit it and destroy the clear parts.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1459599
Which FRC team are you in ?
i feel confident on the build , and the setting up but have no idea where and how to get the print software and the items to print. and i have no idea how to draw or make a print for the printer. any one give me the info on software et. thanks for the video very helpfull.
The print software I use is called Cura by Ultimaker and the model building software is called sketchup. I have videos on both if you want to watch them on my channel. I'm glad you like the videos!
So the gear that pushes the filament towards the hot end isn’t gripping, any suggestions?
Make sure the extruder motor is assembled correctly. There should be pressure on the filament with a spring.
it does but when i go to print, no filament comes out. and the extruder isn't clogged
Maybe the extruder motor isn't plugged in. Maybe check that. Does the motor even turn?
I just cant Get the perfekt settings for ny prusa i3
autohome on mine is a nightmare. it pulls the plate all the way to the back and forced thw bumpstop bent it and bad clicking noise wont stop
Hmm, you probably need a new endswitch. Make sure all the wires are connected next time.
mine doesnt seem to stick, do you put some thing on top of the blue tape
Waggys Cakes & Cupcakes you don't have to but sometimes I wipe on rubbing alcohol.
I can not seem to get it just right, it seems to either go too high and doesnt stick, or put it low and it curls up round the nozzle part
Waggys Cakes & Cupcakes then you need to adjust your z height. move your z axis endstop until the nozzle is exactly the thickness of a piece of paper from the bed
yes i did that, and then when i set it off to print, while its heating ect it moves the nozzle up again, and then when it goes back down again its too far from the bed again, how can i get it so that it stays at the right height, and can set it off to print without having to do anything
Waggys Cakes & Cupcakes you have to keep adjusting the z endstop and press "auto home" which will put the nozzle at the height to print. you should calibrate off that
hello, i i tried to get the nozzle to be paper thin distanced from the bed but it just rips through, i used the screws to raise or lower the bed but still same issue
munther bader when you adjust the screws, you should make it so the nozzle does not scrape through the paper. What printer do you have? Does it have auto bed leveling?
3D Now, it's Prusa i3 it doesn't have auto level, and I did have the screws all the way down to crest that small gap but still same
Okay, then try adjusting your z endstop switch.
Im getting reversed letters...is it a settings problem or a mechanical one?
I think a settings problem
I have issues with my printer just completed it and when I go to print from my PC it doesn't do anything nothing comes out of the filament it auto sets up heats up but that it. What have I missed?
+John Cecotti What program are you using! I wouldn't recommend printing from a PC. I us an sd card because you can turn off your computer and it will not stop the print. Also, I would recommend Cura slicer software. I think it is the easiest way to product great prints! You can watch my video on how to use that software over on my channel. You drop your object in the program, edit the settings, stick it in your printer and click print. It should all work.
what files do you need to copy to the SD card? I have sti files but doesn't seem them when I choose print from sd card
I keep getting error MAXTEMP BED FROM trying to prepare the temperature
+John Cecotti You should put .stl files on the sd card. MAXTEMP BED means the bed is overheating. Try doing a google search on that and you should find an answer.
Hi man! I really need you help, I'm as lost as I could be, I bought a prusa i3 lookalike and I don't know what's missing, first of all my extrusion port isn't working, I've changed the cable to the Z motors and it makes the motor turn but it will not work if it's connected correctly, second thing is i have done as you instructed to heat the bed and nozzle, but to no difference, I have a mac and my designs are on Fusion360, and to top it all off I obviously can't print. Please help
Ed Man try finding an .stl file on thingiverse.com and slicing it in cura. Put the gcode file on a flash drive and print on the printer. Let me know what happens then.
Sorry for the delay, but had things to do and I finally did as you told, I managed to download the cura program and couldn't download any files from thingverse, but I did make a small tube and opened it on cura and got the g code, after that I saved it on the SD card and finally connected it to the printer, then I plugged it in, preheated for PLA and opened the file and after a few light flashed it said 3d printer ready, yet it didn't warm up or do anything, hope you know where I'm getting it wrong, thanks for the fast reply yesterday !
Okay, so your firmware on your control board might be corrupted. Try re-installing the software on it. You can find videos online. Just search "3d printer firmware install"
bro, it finally did it, I still have to work on calibrating the extrusion rate, to have the perfect print, but it's done, thank you so much for your help
Ed Man Awesome! I'm glad I could help.
I have the same printer but I cant get it to print. do i have to do somthing aditional. I also can get it conected to Repetiere.
+Felipe Escobar R Make sure everything is wired correctly first. Then, plug it in and make sure the fan starts and the mother board is lighting up. I would not use the repetiear software but instead use Cura and print off of an SD card. Try that and let me know!
+reThinkTech the printer now works all the motors and the end stops but when i try to print it comes out the ectruder just alittle bit like it is too cold i don't know if it becaise i uswd ABS the one that came with the printer, should i try PLA?
I would start with PLA
When I press in print from SD it takes me to sistem volume info an then nothing happns.
+Felipe Escobar R Make sure you have the SD card in the slot all the way and there is gcode on it. If that doesn't work, try looking at your connections.
Hello. I am a ME. I built this is about 4 hours on a weekend. I got the code running during the week . I am very good at putting things together, but not making the code work. I have managed to get 98% of the way there. My current issue is with the how high the Z axis travels. Seems to me like it goes way higher then it should. I have the bed set so a dollar bill has just a "touch" of resistance. When I run a print, the first pass is great, but then it jumps very high. I bought this on ebay, and it came with 2 KG of filament. I bought more on amazon, but I don't want to waste these ones. Are there any recommendations you have about the Z axis and how to make the cheap stuff work?
+marek foxtrot I wouldn't use any of the cheap filament at all. It just clogs up your extruder! I tried using the cheap stuff but when I switched to the expensive filament the quality was a lot better, too. You could always sell the filament and but a role of higher quality filament.
Ok, cool thanks. I've come across an issue with the z axis. It all works fine, but when i auto home it, i make sure that it's at the proper hight. When i go to print, it lifts maybe 1 or 2 mm so it's not nice and low anymore any suggestions? Im thinking it can be with the code in arduino, or in the printer settings. I thought it was the z probe offset from extruder. Which i changed to -1 from -12.35. But other then that i would be ready for a print.
+marek foxtrot I have the same problem. I usually calibrate the bed 1 -2 mm below what it should by twisting the screw above the 2 axis switch. I do this until I get reliable prints every time. I think It is probably in the code but this simple trick works great for me.
I have a Flsun i3 printer. When click go home for the Y, the hotbed moves to the front but does not stop. It crashes into the end-stop.
I confirm all my motors are wired correctly.
My Slicer settings are 300 x 300 x 420
Make sure the endstops are wired correctly and the bed is hitting it
The "rear" of the printer has a limit switch on the end stop; that side works. However, the front has no limit switch or other wiring at the end stop; that's the side where the bed just crashes on the y-motor grinds and grinds until i abort.
Have you heard of this problem on the Flsun?
That means your printer is not setup correctly in the firmware. You may have to re flash it
I went ahead and re-flashed it: Same issue :(
Is the bed size correct in the firmware?
is this printer print from sd only ?
No, It can print from usb (computer) or sd card.
How hard was build it ??
+jholotan best You need to know how it works and some knowledge of mechanics and electronics. The directions are easy to follow but some parts you need to figure our on your own. Besides that it is surprisingly easy to build.
I am trying to calibrate my Prusa i3 printer but can not get not get my X and Y axis to move freely by hand?? help
In the menu click, prepare, disable steppers.
reThinkTech
I tried that and it doesnt seem to work. :(
unplug the motors and plug them back in, then try the disable again. If that doesn't work, try printing something and if the motors don't move at all, you may need a new motherboard or motors.
reThinkTech thanks will try
how much is a new mother board and where do I get one? Thanks
should i buy an assembled sunhokey prusa for $250
Pickles HD $250 seems like a good price. Is it assembled by sunhokey?
What FRC team are you on?
Zach Kalb I was wondering the same thing!
Haha, I'm in the MAR District
My printer won't home. it's goes past the safety switch. Do yoh think it's firmware?
Does the switch light turn red when pressed? Is the switch plugged in correctly? Are all the switches doing it?
It's plugged in correctly, but it goes past the switches I also checked to see of the wires wire had continuity and all do, Were can I get a good firmware from?
Try the prusa i3 website
do you need a high end pc to print ?
It would help.
No you don't - you can even print without a computer using a SD card.
Yes, I meant you need a higher end computer to 3d model and slice. To actually print you can use any computer or an sd card. I would recommend an sd card.
3D Now I dunno, I can actually get away with slicing and modeling using a 2010 MacBook Air with only 4 gig.. but as to controlling the printer? Research using a raspberry pi!
What's the best 3D printer for just under a million dollars??!
Stratasys
How to set the Z axis to 0 in a specific location?
What do you mean? You should be able to move the head around with your hand and adjust the hight of each corner of the bed. That should make the bed level, or 0 in the Z axis.
3D Now I always do that, but when I press on home, it move to different position than the one I place it on.
Is there a way to change the homing for all axis?
What printer do you have? You might have to adjust the Z end stop. The nozzle and bed should be calibrated so they are level, but the Z axis hight might not be. When a print starts, adjust the Z axis end stop until the nozzle lays down a good first layer. That should fix it.
For the Z axis I understand the way,
But my question is about the X and Y axis, how can I change the home position after thy hit the end stop?
Maher Alsayid Oh! Sorry, for that you need to do it in your software for your motherboard.
my printer start to printer in the auto home lower corner and not in the middle of the bed how i solve this ?
+Stef Vans What slicer software do you use?
+reThinkTech cura 15.04 i tried to adjust in the settings of the prusa i3 it self it always gows to the lower left corner so i only can print little stuff in that corner
+Stef Vans I had that same problem. Try downloading and using an earlier version of cura.
ok good tip thx i will try it out now
cheers for the repply
+Stef Vans nope dint work even with a 14.05 insted of the 15.4 version the printer still starts in the lower left corner but i noticed that in the led screen of the printer itself the pos. x settings min endstop:off
max endstop:N/A same with Y pos setting and i am unabble to adjust in these settings
I don't see a z endstop. Am I just missing it?
+davidmv113 What printer do you have?
+reThinkTech Several. I'm talking about in your video. I'm setting up my first cartesian printer prusa i3 very similar to the one in the video and I have the z endstop on the smooth rod but I'm confused as to how to where to position it. I have it below the Y gantry on the left side smooth rod. Should it be above the gantry instead?
+davidmv113 it depends on how your printer is set up. If it prints at the bottom and moves up, than the switch should be at the bottom. If the bed starts at the top and moved down than, it should be at the top.
+reThinkTech I think it's supposed to be at the bottom. So you just put it anywhere relatively close and then adjust the 4 screws?
+davidmv113 Yes. Also, you can adjust where the end stop is for big adjustments. Move it up or down.
has anyone had any problems with their prusa i3 just stopping mid print??? please help
Are you printing directly from your computer?
+reThinkTech no, SD card
What slicer are you using? Also, make sure all the wires are connected securly.
+reThinkTech im using cura and as far as i can tell all the wires are fine, it just started having this problem
Okay, when it starts yo print, make sure the wires aren't overheating, Mine melted the plastic casing and shorted out.
My temperature won't rise above 25 and the autohome won't work ?
It is probably because the wiring is not correct. Make sure everything is in the correct spot.
3D Now Iv double checked it and I believe it's 100%
Does the bed heat up?
3D Now the bed and nozzle seem to stop at 25
Well that means there is no power going to them, so check the power supply and place you inserted the wires into the motherboard
Need Help!!!
Where was the hell the Calibration? you can't tell me setting the nozzle height was your interpretation of Calibrating the Prusa i3,... Passes Out.
Help ! My power supply has 9 slots and the manual + videos on internet shows 7 or 6 slots, i dont know where to put my wires and i tried doing it before but my whole house got a power outage, someone please help! ( Screen shot : gyazo.com/cde4b9b021aab10d49a5629f07230daf )
There can be some empty slots on the power supply. The symbols from the manual and the power supply should match up. You should be able to use those