Sunhokey Prusa I3 Auto bed level
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- čas přidán 7. 05. 2015
- Made a auto bed level for my Sunhokey Prusa I3 so larger prints don't lift off the bed, all works really well so far first print is stuck tight to hot bed so will see when it finished in an hour or two.
will put a film of a full print up next.
The original new hot-end mount was designed by:
Doug Calvert
www.thingiverse.com/13DjjC13/a...
X-Carriage:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:742947
Auto Bed Level instuctions.
ZennmasterM
/ @zennmasterz
Part 1: making the parts but for makerfarm Prusa I3
• Setting up auto bed-le...
Part 2: Start of firmware changes
• Setting up auto bed-le...
Part3: Final setup
• Setting up auto bed-le...
If you are looking at buying or have bought and want a good video series on how to build your Sunhokey Prusa I3 then this is a good series.
Hiboson.
/ @hiboson
He has several video with very detailed instructions on building the printer, I think he is just about finished but has a video or two more. - Krátké a kreslené filmy
good song
Super!
Thanks
Nice job bro!! You just had forgot to mention the designer of LCD case (myself) and the link on Thingiverse with the stl that you are printing in this video. Anyway many thanks for this very good project!
Stefano Vannucci Sorry mate, done a link now, was just to excited (sad really lol) and wanted to print some things that had failed before. Printer is so much better now with the bed leveling.
Hi nice work .. I have similar printer with lots of troubles with bed leveling so I will start doing this upgrade soon.
So what kind of speeds are you using to get good prints? Can you please share your slic3er speed settings.Thanks & plz keep sharing the nice work.
Could you please share the link for the 3d printed prove bit for the servo arm etc . I have done the X carriage. Thanks
Hi all the parts are here www.thingiverse.com/thing:817538/#files
+Mad Taff thank you life saver. :) I hope to see more great content on your channel. merry Xmas .:)
Hope you have a good one too, hoping to put up some more 3D printing stuff next year. Just bought a Tevo Tornado printer so will do a un-box setup vid for that once it arrives.
Hi! Great job! Couuld you please help me and tell how to connect the endstop and servo to MKS Gen2 v1.1? I have sunhokey 2015 with this board.
+MZeudezet Hi OK your micro switch has 3 pins. Sorry i can not remember which is on and common on my switch (I Think it can be different depending on the switch make, not sure about that though) , so the closest to the switch on the underside of the micro switch is the blue on the original wiring, middle is black, front (furthest from the switch pin) is red.
When I was doing this as I did not know the pin out from the original, I put Black to C common and then plugged the red and blue on connected the print to my laptop via USB without any mains power to the printer so the was board was only getting 5V and I pressed the micro switch and the LCD screen turned in to lines, so was reversed, swapped the blue and red wires and repeated and the LCD showed Z as homed, this did no damaged to the printer as the knife can fall either side on a micro switch anyway when I went to solder the wires I had not written it down duh and then proceeded to solder the wrong way around, realized my mistake when I pressed the micro switch and had to unsolder and rewire and printer was still fine, oh sorry, doing a story as 1. drunk to much bourbon, 2. I had someone panic when LCD went to lines.
I have to say apart from replacing the hot-end with a E3D V6 this is the only other upgrade I have made to the printer and it is still printing great with some superb prints at around 65mm/s, the printer is now at about 400+ hours of printing if not more, oh I now use Buildtak (www.buildtak.com/) for my print surface as everything sticks every time. Hope this helps
+Steve Jones , thank's alot for your advices :) the endstop and servo seems to be ok now, but i have another question - How did you know what was your original marlin configuration? how can i get the original config.h to rewrite some info to the new marlin? (like motherboard type, lcd type, etc.)?
+MZeudezet hi i got the original firmware from sunhokey i can stick a link to drop box if you want. i cant do until later as in work.
+Steve Jones Hi here is a link to the firmware. guessed waiting 5 hours for me to finish work would be a bit long lol.
www.dropbox.com/sh/azikkpyjrrbvfr3/AAC8rqd1DvO3nV-7D_cY42Nca?dl=0
this is the orig firmware as it came from sunhokey. when i uploaded this firmware all i changed was the auto bed level nothing else not even for my V6 hot-end, i thought i would see how it worked and its still the same now everything works great.
+Steve Jones
Hi Steve, Can you help me?
I am doing this mod but... Do I just replace the original end stop board with a plain micro switch?
hi there - cant work out where to plug the servo into on the mainboard. could you please advise me?
+Mick E Hi if you have the same board MKS Gen 2Z V1.1 the servo plug goes on the first 3 pin wide set of connections under where the USB is and the fan power,
Thank you. All setup now :D just some tweaking to do now
+Mick E cool makes a hell of a difference. i have just bought another printer flashforge pro. so much better for doing ABS.
Is it possible to upload the new firmware via the USB connection on the MKS GEN Z2 V1.1 board? Or do i need to use the ICSP pin?
BoXon I used the USB and it worked fine via Arduino IDE just choose the b oard and the port.
Did you use ABS or PLA for the mounts?
Exolive24
They are PLA and yes I know about heat, but if the top of
your hot end cooling tower is over 150C well you aren’t printing anyway lol.
I am re designing the whole carriage at the moment as that
was just a test, Adding coling fan for PLA and maybe a mount for LED light/cam. So when I reprint will probably do in ABS but just as I am
getting some really nice prints from ABS.
Hey I wanted to know if you can help me with the firmware, i recently put on a E3D lite6 and adjusted the firmware based on the E3D lite6 assembly wiki page, after editing the firmware the printer wont work, it turns on and the fan start blowing air but the printer does not work, tried connecting it to repetier to control it and still nothing
justinp4235 Hi did you download the firmware from Github for the marlin MKS Z2 V1.1 board on the Sunhokey if so not all the settings are the same Thermistor/LCD etc. you need the original firmware for your printer. Is it a Sunhokey Prusa I3. If so i have Original Firmware.
Steve Jones Does your LCD show anything when you switch on the printer.
Steve Jones I have the firmware from sunhokey, They sent it to me via email, in which Is how I ended up in this predicament to begin with. It is a sunhokey prusa i3 and I have tried to reinstall the stock firmware but still no luck, made a post about it here www.thingiverse.com/groups/sunhokey-3d-printer-owners/topic:2154, this is what im getting from the lcd i.imgur.com/UJGTZn6.jpg, and to mention it is the MKS 2Z V1.1
justinp4235 OK that's what mine did when I downloaded the Marlin firmware i thought was for my printer. Here is a link to the original firmware I got, just upload to printer and see if it works (don't change anything).
www.dropbox.com/s/ljxg8gzmeg001r1/firmware.zip?dl=0
I did not change anything within the firmware when I changed my head to the V6 and decided not to mess with even when I set up the auto level as was printing fine, the head that came with the printer was pretty much identical 4mm etc, though I did use the thermistor that came with the printer not the one that came with the V6 as at the time I did not want to mess with the printer as I was trying to set it all up.
Must say though from opening box to finished took about 5 hours and except for some leveling/temp issues to start with as long as I did not print to far from center most prints worked fine. Also I found no issue with the PLA or ABS that came with the printer, have nearly finished the black roll, have had more issues with white ABS from reputable supplier, not sure if this is a pigment issue or plastic. Anyway try the firmware and see if it works as is. If it does let me know. When I put my V6 together the first time I did get some blockages and had to mess with but found that if I tightened the nozzle all the way up then tightened the heat brake down to it took the nozzle out gave the heat brake another turn or two and then crimped my nozzle back up i did not get anymore issues and still have not, though remember to change you home stops as the nozzle will be sticking out more. The red ABS in this video is what came with the printer the white is a branded roll the Black is PLA came with printer, the fan and exhaust are rough as I changed to PLA and forgot to change slicer settings to PLA so printed as ABS 40C over what I would normally print it so a bit rough so will redo.
czcams.com/video/IPXUlQlIMUU/video.html
Steve Jones I managed to get the configuration files and such sorted and fixed, now just a matter of getting PID Auto tune to work. I Got it to work the first time around using this configuration on repetiers terminal M303 E0 S200 C8, it worked but I didn't save, then I tried M303 E0 S245 C5 and now it struggles to reach temp and says "03:10:07.624 : PID Autotune failed! timeout"