How to make a fiberglass mold from a 3D print - R34 side skirt extensions

This video shows you all steps I've taken to turn the 3D prints into a mould ready to pull parts from! The 3D printed parts are made from PETG and the mould is made of glassfiber and laminating resing (+gel coat inside).
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[@442jetmech]

So calm and well spoken. Thanks for an excellent video.

[@artemkvas2246]

Amazing video love the content, just came across it today. And it all started with me randomly getting a thought of making carbon fiber parts for my car then one thing less to another and here I am watching non stop your videos. Very inspiring mate. Keep it up.

[@nubmikeyz6521]

This was therapeutic to watch

[@xavierlipscomb2000]

love this video. have been looking for someone doing 3d printed sideskirts

[@Pedufile]

I loved it....... ❤️ loved ur hardwork...more success to you

[@TheOfficialWoof]

Very valuable information.

[@charlesschwab7651]

I wish I had the time or patience to make parts like this for my car. The R3 Rx8 aftermarket is minuscule. It really sucks sometimes 😅. When I get my A90 it’ll be a breath of fresh air having more than 2 parts available lol.

[@DigiHorizon]

Krass wieviel geduld du hast , mega zu sehen wies langsam Form annimmt , keep it up

[@LXGspec]

Danke dir!

[@danboyes7477]

Nice work, very impressive. You seem to really know your stuff 👍

[@LXGspec]

Thanks Dan!

[@BrokenSilvia]

Nice work man

[@LXGspec]

Thanks dude! Really appreciate it!

[@billyjoelization]

You have probably learned this by now, but using cones at the top of your holes takes away the need for support material. to remove from mould easier, design cavities you can get a few fingers into, think quarter of a taurus subtracted from the non-critical faces. if you worry about the overhangs while printing, don''t. it prints beautifully.

[@artongashi6206]

Hello, how many times should release wax be used on 07:50 min. It is enough just once or even more..

[@bobsponge1877]

Do you think eSun PLA+ would work if you don't have PETG on hand? Or do you think the heat from the curing temps would warp it, even printed 100% solid?

[@LXGspec]

Excellent question, I must admit I haven't tried, I went petg very early on due to pla's weaknesses and never looked back since. Depending on the size it could be a very pricy test, in general I'd recommend starting to work with petg. That said feel free to test of course, it might very well be working just fine!

[@bobsponge1877]

@@LXGspec Thank you. I think if I tinker with the wall thickness, it might work. I am curious though, how thick did you print your PETG walls? I know the glass transition temp for PETG filament is 85C, while the PLA+ I use is roughly 60 C. If you can share that info, that may help me gauge my slicer settings for the print. Again, thanks for responding to a year old video. :)

[@devinstewart4787]

@@bobsponge1877bro did you do it yet? What wall thickness did you use/ how many

[@mavigogun]

It seems to me the choice to 3D print the elements has nothing to do with ease of fabrication, expedience, or cost savings- building the forms out of foam or wood would have have been faster and less expensive. What am I missing?

[@billyjoelization]

people tend to use the tools they are familiar with. 3D printing can be way more accurate than working by hand. and for repeatability you really can't beat it.