Adam I watch you on a regular basis, but as a time served machinist in a marine workshop I am worried you may injure yourself. I think a viewer offered you some tuition it would be wise to accept it. all machines can be dangerous but some guidance will make things much safer. All the best I enjoy your video's
Lovely to see you are doing well on the lathe but the one thing I would do is put the power switch that u have on the wall on to the front of your table for safety so if any thing goes wrong you can turn it of with out leaning over the table to turn it of From andy in devon
What is needed is a small pump to pump solibal coolant over the components. This will keep temperature down. Giving longer life to tools and a better finish to the work.
You’re a lucky fellow I’d keep the clutch disengaged while you’re still learning it stopped you from having your workpiece snap off possibly injuring you 👍❤✌️
Couple of things, when you face off material you need to point the tool more to the left so the point is doing the cutting, not the side of the tool, then put it back where you had it for general turning . 2 don’t put cutting oil on with your fingers when the lathe is running man, !!! get a small metal oil can and apply it with that. Nice job
Hi Adam, Great video on your bandsaw you need running oil Coolant over the blade as it is cutting, And you need something similar for your lathe or at least get yourself a oil can, All the very best Adam.🛠️🛠️🛠️⭐️👍👌
Really proud of you Adam , You are doing great , Small tip you only have to tighten up on one square hole with your chuck key they are all connected via a gramophone spiral grove as you tighten up all three of the jaws act together .
@@vk4uh96 complete and utter Rubbish! Complete and utter waste of time on a self centring lathe! Totally vitak in a independant jawed chuck! You do not get any slack on a self centring chuck!
Is there a reason the bass end was bonded on with epoxy resin rather than screwed on? (genuine question). dimple means, tool too low! This will also affect the surface finish, and will make the tool grab and can lead to chattering (if too high it rubs). You need a slow speed with steel (faster speeds with brass cast iron and aluminium) . Judging by the sounds, you was turning it too fast. Turning RPM goes on three things. Material type, Material size, and tool type. In the case of diameters, surface speed is what matters (bigger diameter, slower RPM required due to higher surface area creating higher surface speeds) By rights you should have stopped the lathe before changing tools in the tail stock........... I don't sometimes either so I'll pretend I didn't see it 😉😀 Noticed on your first cut you are still using a chamfer tool set with the cutting angle of 45 degrees. but you had it nearly set correct for linear turning after that (id say it still wants to come around more, which is why a proper handed knife tool is best). You has the correct knife took near your plyers when you cleaned the bits up. Id play around with your feed gears to see if you can slow the feed down, it looks to me the previous owner had it set for screw cutting by how fast that feed was. The slower the feed rate the finer the finish you will get. I do have Mic's but I'm afraid on most jobs, I use a digital vernier. There not accurate as a micrometer, but they are good enough for a lot of jobs, and reasonably cheap these days. Should be good enough for most of the jobs your likely to do. My late grandad never had anything that posh, all he had was old fashioned callipers and a steel rule. Hanging over the my lathe is a hacksaw. I do have parting off tools, but a lot of the time, after making a groove, I still use the saw, and just turn and face it (my college lecturer of 24 years ago would not approve lol - we wasn't even allowed to use adjustable spanners)
Can't help feeling this is an accident waiting to happen... Bolt the lathe down to something solid, buy a book on basic metal turning and read up on what tools are for what. By clamping the epoxied pieces together so tightly, with no grooves in them, all the glue is squeezed out, leaving nothing in the joint. Apart from that....carry on....!!!
Adam I very rarely comment on videos but I check for your videos everyday. It's a real pleasure to watch you and I love them all, slowly going through all your vids and enjoying. Great seeing all you do and wish you every happiness and enjoyment. Would love to see longer videos but understand the work it involves too. Take care yourself and Mrs.ManCave. A loyal follower from NI ❤
Looking at the oilers on the chuck shaft you are over oiling, you only need a very slow drip unless using high speed. Have you downloaded the ML7 manual yet? It will show you all of the oiling points, note OIL not grease.
Great videos get old dish washing bottle mix cutting fluid with water and use cutting fluid all time when turning cutting drilling else you will burn drills lathe tools or band saw blade
Keep up the good work Adam, machining is not as easy as many think. Design of your own made tools don't matter, it's practice machining and making things fit that does. Tip : Use the tailstock centre to set tool height, rotate the tool post so it is pointing towards the centre and shim to correct height, then position it to do the turning. 🪒 I remember in an interview Fred Dibner was asked why the gauges on his steam engine didn't have glass, he replied "cause I haven't learnt how to make glass yet" classic comment and shows everyone has to learn .
I think you'll find the problem with the lathe will be the wibbly wobbly bouncy floor its sitting on. A mate of mine had to lift a section of his wooden floor and lay a sound concrete base to carry the weight of the lathe. My Smart and Brown is bolted back to the brick wall and down to the concrete floor in my ex coalshed workshop. And you really do need to master taps and dies! And get a parting tool! Epoxy Glue indeed? Lord Adam Araldite of Norfolk!
Very appropriate. I believe it was/is common practice for apprentices to start off by making some of their tools.. Less appropriate is making a roll up while watching this video. I now have a double length cigarette with the tip in the middle.
your central tipped double ended roll up reminded me of An old chap I used to know from Lakenham, when I went round his sometimes, before we started work, first job was to roll his fags, and drink a cup of tea. When his little tin was fullish of about 20 roll ups, we would start work. He was a chain smoker, one was lit off the last drags of the previous one. When those was smoked, it was time for tea break, around 11. while we had another cup of tea, he would roll another 20 or so in his tin, and then we could get back to work. When they was smoked, it was lunch time, when his misses on her lunch brake would pop home to cook him pie and chips. after the grub, it was time for another cuppa and roll more fags. yes you got it, when they was smoked, it was time for mid afternoon break, when he would roll some more, and when they was smoked up it was time to call it a day. I hate to think how much "baccy" he got through in a day. Sometimes with his smoke, and the smoke from the welding, you couldn't see across the workshop! I personally have never smoked, but I make the doctors smile when they ask me, "do you smoke?" and I reply "only when I am on fire" lol
Check that cutting oil, see if it's water miscible..... If it's in the same league as Rocol, you should mix it with water - it turns milky, and in an Ideal world, you should pump the mixture constantly over the workpiece. Otherwise, you can use sauce bottles, or washing up liquid bottles to keep dribbling the coolant mix as you work - you can put a drip tray under the work and save the fluid for reuse. It'll work out a mighty lot cheaper than way, both for the coolant, and the tool. I'm not sure of the mix ratio, but I think 50:50 oil/water will work nicely. The cutting oil is primarily there to keep the tool from overheating and destroying its temper. If the mixture is too weak, you can add more oil as necessary.
depending on the type of cutting fluid, you only need a very small amount of cutting oil to water. My mill and lathe both have built in coolant pumps, I mix it up in a old 1 gal watering can.exoerice tends to lead to know how much just to pour in, but with the oil I use I would guess its around 1/4 pint to 1 gal. I also use mostly a washing up bottle for the drilling machine, and also for small stuff on the mill and lathe, I used to use a vinegar bottle but was a pain in the bum to fill up.
I think you have a range of cutting shapes in your box of bits. Could you perhaps lay them out In a numbered row so that we can advise you of the usage of the different shapes.
More oil ! And sorry Adam but that bench is anything but rigid. Try reading a couple of old books on machining, you'll get there much quicker - wherever"there" is 👍🏻
You made yourself too much work there! You have a lathe, you could have machined a spigot on the steel and a hole in the brass just a couple of thou too small and heated the brass face to expand it then gently pressed them together, once cooled nothing but heat will part them. Why did the material ride up? I'll tell you why, you said the tooling was leaving a little tit on the end when facing off, that tells you the tooling is too low in the tool post, physics dictates torque and friction will want to push the material up and if its not correctly centred you get what you did.
Hi mate they say you can’t teach an old dog new tricks just goes to show them wrong your never to old to learn. Ps never use a cloth get some paper towel.
Robin Jeffery. You are always using the word KELTER. I looked it up in the O.E.D and found the following. KELTER:- RUBBISH ; NONSENSE Used in dialect from Durham to S. Lincs. Not sure how it crept into Norfolk lingo. Ha! Ha!
I was looking the other week at all the scars I have on my hands. Nearly all of them are from mishaps whilst working and getting complacent . One of the worst is from a centre when I was at college. Unfortunately I can't remember how I got most of them now.
Adam I watch you on a regular basis, but as a time served machinist in a marine workshop I am worried you may injure yourself. I think a viewer offered you some tuition it would be wise to accept it. all machines can be dangerous but some guidance will make things much safer. All the best I enjoy your video's
Lovely to see you are doing well on the lathe but the one thing I would do is put the power switch that u have on the wall on to the front of your table for safety so if any thing goes wrong you can turn it of with out leaning over the table to turn it of
From andy in devon
What is needed is a small pump to pump solibal coolant over the components. This will keep temperature down. Giving longer life to tools and a better finish to the work.
You’re a lucky fellow I’d keep the clutch disengaged while you’re still learning it stopped you from having your workpiece snap off possibly injuring you 👍❤✌️
Couple of things, when you face off material you need to point the tool more to the left so the point is doing the cutting, not the side of the tool, then put it back where you had it for general turning . 2 don’t put cutting oil on with your fingers when the lathe is running man, !!! get a small metal oil can and apply it with that. Nice job
Hi Adam, Great video on your bandsaw you need running oil Coolant over the blade as it is cutting, And you need something similar for your lathe or at least get yourself a oil can, All the very best Adam.🛠️🛠️🛠️⭐️👍👌
I use a old washing up bottle.
👍excellent enjoyed that.
Crumbs, is that the RS box of components from the auction?. Watch out, all electronics channels.
Really proud of you Adam , You are doing great , Small tip you only have to tighten up on one square hole with your chuck key they are all connected via a gramophone spiral grove as you tighten up all three of the jaws act together .
Sorry but thats not correct. Even with a three jaw chuck you should always tension up all three, as Adam was doing, to overcome any slack in the chuck
@@vk4uh96 complete and utter Rubbish! Complete and utter waste of time on a self centring lathe!
Totally vitak in a independant jawed chuck!
You do not get any slack on a self centring chuck!
Fantastic video, you've really got the knack. Keep em coming.
Is there a reason the bass end was bonded on with epoxy resin rather than screwed on? (genuine question).
dimple means, tool too low! This will also affect the surface finish, and will make the tool grab and can lead to chattering (if too high it rubs).
You need a slow speed with steel (faster speeds with brass cast iron and aluminium) . Judging by the sounds, you was turning it too fast. Turning RPM goes on three things. Material type, Material size, and tool type. In the case of diameters, surface speed is what matters (bigger diameter, slower RPM required due to higher surface area creating higher surface speeds)
By rights you should have stopped the lathe before changing tools in the tail stock........... I don't sometimes either so I'll pretend I didn't see it 😉😀
Noticed on your first cut you are still using a chamfer tool set with the cutting angle of 45 degrees. but you had it nearly set correct for linear turning after that (id say it still wants to come around more, which is why a proper handed knife tool is best). You has the correct knife took near your plyers when you cleaned the bits up.
Id play around with your feed gears to see if you can slow the feed down, it looks to me the previous owner had it set for screw cutting by how fast that feed was. The slower the feed rate the finer the finish you will get.
I do have Mic's but I'm afraid on most jobs, I use a digital vernier. There not accurate as a micrometer, but they are good enough for a lot of jobs, and reasonably cheap these days. Should be good enough for most of the jobs your likely to do. My late grandad never had anything that posh, all he had was old fashioned callipers and a steel rule.
Hanging over the my lathe is a hacksaw. I do have parting off tools, but a lot of the time, after making a groove, I still use the saw, and just turn and face it (my college lecturer of 24 years ago would not approve lol - we wasn't even allowed to use adjustable spanners)
Can't help feeling this is an accident waiting to happen... Bolt the lathe down to something solid, buy a book on basic metal turning and read up on what tools are for what. By clamping the epoxied pieces together so tightly, with no grooves in them, all the glue is squeezed out, leaving nothing in the joint. Apart from that....carry on....!!!
Adam I very rarely comment on videos but I check for your videos everyday. It's a real pleasure to watch you and I love them all, slowly going through all your vids and enjoying. Great seeing all you do and wish you every happiness and enjoyment. Would love to see longer videos but understand the work it involves too. Take care yourself and Mrs.ManCave. A loyal follower from NI ❤
Awesome project
Looking at the oilers on the chuck shaft you are over oiling, you only need a very slow drip unless using high speed.
Have you downloaded the ML7 manual yet? It will show you all of the oiling points, note OIL not grease.
Great videos get old dish washing bottle mix cutting fluid with water and use cutting fluid all time when turning cutting drilling else you will burn drills lathe tools or band saw blade
Keep up the good work Adam, machining is not as easy as many think.
Design of your own made tools don't matter, it's practice machining and making things fit that does.
Tip : Use the tailstock centre to set tool height, rotate the tool post so it is pointing towards the centre and shim to correct height, then position it to do the turning.
🪒
I remember in an interview Fred Dibner was asked why the gauges on his steam engine didn't have glass, he replied "cause I haven't learnt how to make glass yet" classic comment and shows everyone has to learn .
Great lathe and good to see you enjoying working on it 😊👍
Great cutting oil used it on heavy steel plate & bars
I always thought that sign was a hammer when I was a kid! Skidz
I think you'll find the problem with the lathe will be the wibbly wobbly bouncy floor its sitting on. A mate of mine had to lift a section of his wooden floor and lay a sound concrete base to carry the weight of the lathe. My Smart and Brown is bolted back to the brick wall and down to the concrete floor in my ex coalshed workshop. And you really do need to master taps and dies! And get a parting tool! Epoxy Glue indeed? Lord Adam Araldite of Norfolk!
Very appropriate. I believe it was/is common practice for apprentices to start off by making some of their tools.. Less appropriate is making a roll up while watching this video. I now have a double length cigarette with the tip in the middle.
your central tipped double ended roll up reminded me of An old chap I used to know from Lakenham, when I went round his sometimes, before we started work, first job was to roll his fags, and drink a cup of tea. When his little tin was fullish of about 20 roll ups, we would start work. He was a chain smoker, one was lit off the last drags of the previous one. When those was smoked, it was time for tea break, around 11. while we had another cup of tea, he would roll another 20 or so in his tin, and then we could get back to work. When they was smoked, it was lunch time, when his misses on her lunch brake would pop home to cook him pie and chips. after the grub, it was time for another cuppa and roll more fags. yes you got it, when they was smoked, it was time for mid afternoon break, when he would roll some more, and when they was smoked up it was time to call it a day. I hate to think how much "baccy" he got through in a day. Sometimes with his smoke, and the smoke from the welding, you couldn't see across the workshop!
I personally have never smoked, but I make the doctors smile when they ask me, "do you smoke?" and I reply "only when I am on fire" lol
I would of turned the end of the brass down so it formed its own pin.
Check that cutting oil, see if it's water miscible..... If it's in the same league as Rocol, you should mix it with water - it turns milky, and in an Ideal world, you should pump the mixture constantly over the workpiece. Otherwise, you can use sauce bottles, or washing up liquid bottles to keep dribbling the coolant mix as you work - you can put a drip tray under the work and save the fluid for reuse. It'll work out a mighty lot cheaper than way, both for the coolant, and the tool.
I'm not sure of the mix ratio, but I think 50:50 oil/water will work nicely. The cutting oil is primarily there to keep the tool from overheating and destroying its temper. If the mixture is too weak, you can add more oil as necessary.
depending on the type of cutting fluid, you only need a very small amount of cutting oil to water. My mill and lathe both have built in coolant pumps, I mix it up in a old 1 gal watering can.exoerice tends to lead to know how much just to pour in, but with the oil I use I would guess its around 1/4 pint to 1 gal. I also use mostly a washing up bottle for the drilling machine, and also for small stuff on the mill and lathe, I used to use a vinegar bottle but was a pain in the bum to fill up.
I think you have a range of cutting shapes in your box of bits. Could you perhaps lay them out In a numbered row so that we can advise you of the usage of the different shapes.
Adam get that woodburner installed m8 winters coming
More oil ! And sorry Adam but that bench is anything but rigid. Try reading a couple of old books on machining, you'll get there much quicker - wherever"there" is 👍🏻
All good advice given but I bet you haven't dialed your lathe in to turn true.
you need a bigger shed
You made yourself too much work there! You have a lathe, you could have machined a spigot on the steel and a hole in the brass just a couple of thou too small and heated the brass face to expand it then gently pressed them together, once cooled nothing but heat will part them.
Why did the material ride up? I'll tell you why, you said the tooling was leaving a little tit on the end when facing off, that tells you the tooling is too low in the tool post, physics dictates torque and friction will want to push the material up and if its not correctly centred you get what you did.
I tend to join metal parts that I want permanently connected by either freezing or heating the components.
I want to get a lathe Adam so I can do some metal work
Hi mate they say you can’t teach an old dog new tricks just goes to show them wrong your never to old to learn. Ps never use a cloth get some paper towel.
Robin Jeffery. You are always using the word KELTER. I looked it up in the O.E.D and found the following. KELTER:- RUBBISH ; NONSENSE Used in dialect from Durham to S. Lincs. Not sure how it crept into Norfolk lingo. Ha! Ha!
A trip to A & E not good,
Take that drill out of chuck
I was looking the other week at all the scars I have on my hands. Nearly all of them are from mishaps whilst working and getting complacent . One of the worst is from a centre when I was at college. Unfortunately I can't remember how I got most of them now.
I know it's your stile, but what a mess! You oilier on the right-side of the lave needs some oil in the cup.
Style, Your, Oiler, Lathe.
A trip to A & E not good,
Take that drill out of chuck
I think it's inevitable whether the drill is in or out of the chuck