I have replaced the main engine grounding wire and the throttle body...but still intermittent on an H2 Hummer. It has been to the shop 3 times...no luck. I found that TPS ground wire by the driver's side door...cleaned it up...SHAZAM...engine light gone...codes gone...running like a champ again! Thanks Dude!!
You nailed brother.. this was my issue with my 2005 GMC Sierra ... This didn't come and go.. it was just.. WHAM.. no power and was telling me reduced engine power.. I came to CZcams and watched your video.. I went right out and did what you did and it was the fix.. so thank you.. God bless
Really good video. I have a 96 and a 05 suburban and I don’t have any problems yet but still going to check it out hope to save the problem to ever happening. Thank u
Thanks man your a life saver! I have a 2001 Silverado 2500 8.1 that just did this. I checked the grounds under the truck first after watching your video. So much rust the frame and bolts were flush. Grinded everything down and it runs perfect.
Agreed let’s put corporate gm to shame. I’ve saved so much money and time doing mechanics myself. From watching you and others I know more about my Tahoe. I would like to say thank you for sharing.
Before swapping expensive parts check your GROUNDS! All cars/trucks ground to engine, frame and body to complete circuits. That's why you see different ground locations. They can break off, get disconnected/cut, or have bad connections from corrosion. Micro switches, modules, and computers get squirly with bad power or bad grounds. Start with ground cable at battery, and clean the others. My '04, Z71 Burb had a bad ground on back of pass. head so I ran the black/white stripe wire to drivers side firewall ground that was shown with braided flat ground strap. That fixed 4wd. selection switch, ch. eng. lt., no crank, and crazy door locks. A wire brush from H.F. on a drill easily cleans rust on frame, then use wire brush, sandpaper to shine up wire ends, bolts, etc. Carefully clean the 3 wires shown here on frame below drivers seat. Follow smaller ground cable wire down to frame below core support to clean that important one as it also looks like the main computer ground is there. The gas pedal module is bolted to firewall by Master Brake Cylinder and must have a good ground so check that as well. Smear electrical grease on all cleaned connections and reg. grease once bolted tight. Ground cable from batt. to engine block can go bad but pretty unusual. You MUST have good grounds so do that first yourself. Remember the dealer makes a bunch more money replacing expensive parts than cleaning the grounds that affected the part they replaced as comments show. Great video, Thanks.
Bro i just drove my tahoe to my bois house and it was fine. Then im gettin ready to leave and no power i was pissed i thought it was gunna be something major or hella expensive. I got home barely got up to 25 30 mph and then watched your video. Life saver bro good shit!!!!
Thank you Very Much.. same thing Happened to my truck today, After watching your video This is the first thing i Did and Bam! It work ...... That was it.... Can’t believe something that small can cause some Major Headaches....
Excellent, both grounds are an issue. Up here in the rust belt. Ohio/ Michigan are we are under winter A-SALT. I believe there is one more ground behind the passenger head. Our truck frames here are not that clean.
Thanks for the video homie, my 03’ H2 is going through the same issue with no power when I hit the gas… tomorrow I’m gonna try your method cleaning the grounds. I thought it was a transmission problem truthfully. Much appreciated!!
Thanks for sharing, sure hope mine is this easy to fix. I have a throttle position sensor on order for my 2011 Avalanche due to my reduced power issue that comes up intermittently and puts me on the side of the road. Restart truck and it's fine again but I surely will be checking all these grounds I have been learning about until the TPS gets here.
Thank you! I've done everything, replaced throttle body and TPS sensor, other grounds but I did not know about this ground under the door! I'll try this next
For that ground fix slide the conduit up to make sure both wires are connected. Another ground on frame, drivers side below core support. Single black/white stripe wire back of passenger head. Another by motor mount to block. There's more but those are the usual problem places.
Thx for the video. Don’t have that trouble right now but i was researching why these trucks have such poor throttle response off the line and i can across this. I’ll keep it in my favs.
You're, the Fucking Man. 2004 GMC Sierra affectionately as "Hanna". She's part of the family. You have saved me from making a rash, decision. Thank you
You're easy fix to clean the 2 bolts under the driver-side door made the ground connection better. It worked, and saved me hundreds of dollars $ and tons of trips/time paying a mechanic who could NOT find the issue during expensive diagnostic/trouble-shoots. THANK YOU!
biker mike your the only genius I’ve ever seen watching these low quality how to videos before your stranded. Props to you sir. Wish I would have because I’m here out of desperation not education!
dealing with same thing on buds wife yukon xlt the battery small ground wire is under the front bumper drivers side also needs cleaned and tightened !...So after lots of searching and videos I came across 1 guys forum post on a GM site. He removed the intake manifold to access those 2 bolts, mounted on back of head/block!....My last thing am in middle of fixing! So the passenger side ground bolt, is top mounted on rear corner of the block , the braided ground to drivers side is horizontally mounted in back side of the head.....With the intake out of the way, REAL easy to repair those 2. BUT I added an extra ground wire along with the braided ground, and relocated both to the side of the head. Bolt fits the hole midway by exhaust manifold. So THIS will be easier to get at later down the road IF needed! Screw the back side of the head location! Reassembling it tomorrow with new intake gaskets also since this Yukon does have 300k on the clock.....Funny, all this nightmare began when truck sat parked for a bit and the battery went dead!! Once I replaced it with a new $130 battery, its been stuck in limp mode throwing DTC P1518 So will see tomorrow IF I finally got this booger fixed! good thing I have short hair or I'd have pulled it out by now ! Engineers should have to work on their shit to see how stupid somethings they do in designing a vehicle is totally idiotic! hahaha
@@budthechud3408 yes cut wires in split loom near brake booster dunno if I did that removing alarm horn or not. Not my typical goof up but it was the issue n fixed it once I repaired wires
I'm having the same issue on a 2005 Sierra 3500. This will be the first thing I check! I have ALOT of rust on the frame and I am guessing I have a ground issue. I will re-post to let everyone else know if this fixes my issue. Thanks so much!
@@phouston6802 I ended up just cleaning and applying dielectric grease to the 2 electrical plugs on the firewall behind the brake fluid container (master cylinder). Unhook your battery first. Haven’t had the problem since.
So hey I have a 03 tahoe and when I stomp the gas it hesitates or like bogs kinda jumps a little when it's trying to get power I all ready did the gounds and sea foamed the tahoe the sea foam helped but still kinda doing the same thing any thoughts?
Thanks for this video....my GMC envoy also goes into reduced power mode when I go through a puddle or deep snow on the drivers side....really hoping it's a similar type fix
Just tried this. My ground was not between two washers (only reason to have two washers), but was instead right up against the body, dirty as hell. So I took it apart and decreased and wire brushed it. Will give is a go later and see if it helped.
On my 2005 chevy suburban my issue was everytime i let off the gas pedal it boggs down like its going to break down and turn off with slight shake or trembles. It just started. I watched your video sounds like i have the same problems. I will check in it.
Thanks for the video bro. For the ground at 2:40 could you just use a wire and crimp the o shaped connector to it and reground it to the side of the engine/alternator or does it NEED to be grounded to the original location?
Has this problem returned? Let me know cause I'm going through the same problem. Getting p1125 code and intermittent "reduced engine power" on a 2004 silverado 6.0. Thanks.
My 2004 GMC Yukon 1500 is always going into "Reduced Engine Power" Mode. When it happens, I get off the road, roughly idle to a hault and shut the truck off because it makes the whole truck shake. I would wait like 2 minutes and try to restart it and it would run fine but the check engine light would stay on for awhile unless it sits for a few hours and then that would even turn off. I brought it into GMC here in Winter Haven Florida and they have replaced gas pedal sensors, Throttle sensors and the whole throttle body and just last night, Into a 30 min drive, it would go into low power mode again. I had a 2 hour drive to family and back and it happened about 30 mins into the drive both ways. If I clean the grounds that you pointed out is it really going to solve my problem?
I can’t guarantee it will but it’s a simple thing to try and I bet it’s the problem 😂. It definitely won’t hurt to try, so give it a go! Your description sounds EXACTLY Like what mine was doing.
There's two under the door, 2 on the back of the engine on either cylinder head.. driver side goes to the body bolt for a chassis ground and the other goes directly to the computer from the passenger side head. There's also a main ground coming off the battery to the side of the engine block.
Are people getting a code for this? I have an 05 sierra 1500 thats acting all crazy, but I've been chasing and changing emissions codes and parts. Code keeps coming back and when i step on the gas the truck barley moves but then it will get going. It idles fine.
@@matthewlewis9996 what you have going on sounds exactly like a dirty mass air flow. The grounds create different issues and compound other issues. You won't get codes specifically for the ground.
@@matthewlewis9996 thanks for the response good to no on my 04 Tahoe I don't have any codes just lack of power when I need it so I'm try clean up those grounds see what happens.
Hi I have a 2006 suburban when I press gas it hesitates at times I give gas and it doesn't get power i know its not the engine I shut traction control off and helps a little could this be my problem?
Casante Jackson it has the potential to work on all GM vehicles definitely including an avalanche. Won’t hurt to try before spending too much?? Good luck!
why are they grounded under the vehicle in the first place? can they be moved to be grounded somewhere in the engine compartment? great video btw... wish I saw your video before i replaced everything that still didn't resolve my issue
There is another ground in the engine compartment but it’s nearly impossible to get to unlike this one. I’m sorry, sometimes vehicles are such a burden
The solution can be much, much simpler. Before you replace a throttle body or an accelerator pedal position sensor, or even clean the grounds or replace ground wires, try this method. Get a can of full strength De-Oxit or Electronic Contact Cleaner. Find the accelerator pedal position sensor (right above the gas pedal) and disconnect the connector between it and the rest of the wiring harness; if you've done this before it may be simple, if you have not and can't get a good look at what you're doing, it can be frustrating, very frustrating. Once apart, spray both parts of the connector(pins and connector sockets) with a generous amount of the spray from either product, and the chemical spray will remove any corrosion in the connections, particularly if you put the parts partially together and work them in and out, then lock them together with the snaps. This bundle of wires controls the throttle position sensor (i.e. the sensor that moves throttle plate position inside the throttle body). After removing the plastic cover plate on top of the engine, find the closest connector to the throttle body, separate the two halves as you did with the other sensor down by the throttle pedal and generously spray both the pins and sockets in the connector halves, and put them back together using the same technique as you did with the first connector. Wait a few minutes for all the chemical spray to evaporate. The vehicle should start now with no more money lights or codes. If not, start working on the various ground wires and connectors as described in this video. To see how tricky these problems can be, watch part one and part two of D-Ray Smith's video on fixing this problem on his 2010 Chevy 2500 HD, published on CZcams on or about June 25, 2011. D-Ray is a country genius on diagnosing and fixing trucks.
@@4fletch75 Amazon.DeoxIT D5S-6 Spray, More Than A Contact Cleaner, 142g, Integrated Straw. There are several varieties. This is the latest, improved version.I have a 2003 Tahoe Z71 that I bought new. Our new car got destroyed in a rear-ender, my son had the Z71 at his house, he had parked it because the low-power message, etc. We needed something to drive. It took me 5 to 10 minutes with De-Oxit to cure all these problems, and I hopped in it and drove it home, 100 miles, at night, with no worries, no problems. I have had to spray it again after about 2 months, another 10 minute job. Had vehicle checked a month ago by the regular independent mechanic who has worked on it for years. Some worn steering parts replaced, but he found no bad wiring, no DTC codes, no lights. Friable corrosion is caused by vibration, and can be invisible to the eye. Moisture based corrosion usually shows as "green crusties" which are very visible, particularly with a magnifying glass. Overloaded circuits show up as burned connections and melted plastic. Don't overlook loose connections from pushed out sockets and using probes that are too large.(Happened to me last week on another car when I replaced A/C compressor switch - one connector socket was pushed out of the back of the plug.) A very strong flash light helps you see these issues. Follow South Main Auto and Pine Hollow Diagnostics on CZcams for great insight and more diagnostic tips.
I regrounded my engine and check ed the 2 grounds in the bottom of the truck and cleand them as well, also cleaned out the throttle body on top, but my truck keeps reducing power everytime i drive it, any more suggestions to help me out people i would appreciate the help
You may also check the wires coming right out of your TPS under the hood? First make sure the wires are tight. If you have a connector harness in that location take it apart and clean the connector then plug it back together?
Joel Acuna86 total loss of power although it would start and run. It didn’t have enough power to move well but maybe just a little if I remember correctly.
Google ground locations for your car. It would most likely be in a place susceptible to moisture and rust. If your case is like mine, you’ll be upset after replacing everything else when it was something so simple.
Is yours a electric throttle body? I have 2000 yukon and it's crazy but I have a electric throttle body which I thought they didn't start using them on the gm models till around 2002 or 03.
What if i only had one ground?? Mines a 2001 gmc yukon slt and man mines having same sin toms but i dont have a a check engine light engines running rough accelerates slow i press on the gas pedal and it picks up speed slowly i cleaned my throttle body ran Lucas injector cleaner has had a tune up before covid oil changes on time changed idler pulley new belts and tensioners... before i buy the censors i looked at this but i only have one ground took it to two mechanics they tell me my truck is fine no codes but man it keeps running rough
Good evening. I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban 1500, I would like to know what could possibly be causing my truck to stop driving after a few minutes. But when I turn it off and let it sit for as little as a minute or so, I can drive it like there’s nothing wrong with it and then it will stop driving Could you please help , if you can
I don’t know about a sensor near the door? The video is mostly talking about cleaning grounds? There is throttle position sensors on the pedal that talk to the one on the throttle body sensor but they are not the same.
I just bought my 2006 suburban from a dealership. They told me the power steering pump made some noises here and there when you take a turn. Twice now when I push on the gas going straight it has made that sound like it does when I turn but it just creeps forward and then after a few agonizing seconds it lurches forward. Does it sound like the grounding is the issue you discussed in the video?
I have replaced the main engine grounding wire and the throttle body...but still intermittent on an H2 Hummer. It has been to the shop 3 times...no luck. I found that TPS ground wire by the driver's side door...cleaned it up...SHAZAM...engine light gone...codes gone...running like a champ again! Thanks Dude!!
Happy to hear! Shazam!!
You nailed brother.. this was my issue with my 2005 GMC Sierra ... This didn't come and go.. it was just.. WHAM.. no power and was telling me reduced engine power.. I came to CZcams and watched your video.. I went right out and did what you did and it was the fix.. so thank you.. God bless
I’m glad it helped! I often refer to CZcams for vehicle help.
Thank you
Thank you sir. You have saved me time, money and stress by you taking the time to share your knowledge. Thank you again.
We had the same problem with our truck Chevy Silverado thanks to your video we were able to fix it.Thank you.
Dude, you nailed it. Awesome video, very simple and well articulated. You are the man.
This fixed the "Reduced Engine Power" issue on my 2003 Suburban Z71. Cleaned the connections and replaced the screws/washers.
thank you Fletch your tip was right you saved me a LOT OF MONEY!!! cant thank you enough!!! have a blessed life!!!
Thank you so much this was literally the problem i didn't have to spend a dime you're awesome !!!
Really good video. I have a 96 and a 05 suburban and I don’t have any problems yet but still going to check it out hope to save the problem to ever happening. Thank u
Thanks man your a life saver! I have a 2001 Silverado 2500 8.1 that just did this. I checked the grounds under the truck first after watching your video. So much rust the frame and bolts were flush. Grinded everything down and it runs perfect.
Agreed let’s put corporate gm to shame. I’ve saved so much money and time doing mechanics myself. From watching you and others I know more about my Tahoe. I would like to say thank you for sharing.
videos like this are what helping others is all about thank you
Before swapping expensive parts check your GROUNDS! All cars/trucks ground to engine, frame and body to complete circuits. That's why you see different ground locations. They can break off, get disconnected/cut, or have bad connections from corrosion. Micro switches, modules, and computers get squirly with bad power or bad grounds. Start with ground cable at battery, and clean the others. My '04, Z71 Burb had a bad ground on back of pass. head so I ran the black/white stripe wire to drivers side firewall ground that was shown with braided flat ground strap. That fixed 4wd. selection switch, ch. eng. lt., no crank, and crazy door locks. A wire brush from H.F. on a drill easily cleans rust on frame, then use wire brush, sandpaper to shine up wire ends, bolts, etc. Carefully clean the 3 wires shown here on frame below drivers seat. Follow smaller ground cable wire down to frame below core support to clean that important one as it also looks like the main computer ground is there. The gas pedal module is bolted to firewall by Master Brake Cylinder and must have a good ground so check that as well. Smear electrical grease on all cleaned connections and reg. grease once bolted tight. Ground cable from batt. to engine block can go bad but pretty unusual. You MUST have good grounds so do that first yourself. Remember the dealer makes a bunch more money replacing expensive parts than cleaning the grounds that affected the part they replaced as comments show. Great video, Thanks.
BRAVO...MANY THANKS!!
2001Yukon XL went into Power Reduced Mode and threw an 1125P DTC code...YOU fixed my truck!
I hope this is it! My ground to the motor broke off last year and yea mine has these symptoms! Huge thanks!
Hey Brother thank you so much my sister Tahoe was doing the same thing as yours I did what you said and it runs great thanks again
Wow I'm so happy I found this video. I fixed my throttle so easy with buying no sensors. Thankyou
Thank you for that detailed video! I've been having the same issue even after replacing the throttle body!!
Brother you saved my day I replaced my throttle and pedal and it still was coming p1518 now I check the ground and it was loose I'm one happy camper
Bro i just drove my tahoe to my bois house and it was fine. Then im gettin ready to leave and no power i was pissed i thought it was gunna be something major or hella expensive. I got home barely got up to 25 30 mph and then watched your video. Life saver bro good shit!!!!
Thank you Very Much.. same thing Happened to my truck today, After watching your video This is the first thing i Did and Bam! It work ...... That was it.... Can’t believe something that small can cause some Major Headaches....
was yours bringing up the "reduced engine power" code on the dash ?
I wanted to say thank you 😀😀😀 for this video it was my ground wire dirty and now I have. Running vehicle to take my kid to school .
How did you clean it
@@victor2187puj I used a hard wire brush I had one that I used to clean my battery terminal I just scraped at it on both sides
Did you took the screws off i get reduce engine power whene im driving did you change some parts or thats all you do
It had rust or just duat and dirt?
How do you know that was tbe problem
Thanks the ground wires makes sense and solved my problem. Before you buy anything try this.
Buddy thank you so much for putting this on you tube you saved my ass I am so greatful that's what it was im indeded to you thanks again!!!!!
Thank you sir, have the same issue 2005 Tahoe. For me it wasn’t so much rusty but dusty from all this caked up oil lol . Your a good man , God bless .
That worked perfect I was having same issues was considering getting TPI watched this video 5 minutes later problem solved thanks
Excellent, both grounds are an issue. Up here in the rust belt. Ohio/ Michigan are we are under winter A-SALT. I believe there is one more ground behind the passenger head.
Our truck frames here are not that clean.
Thank you for the video, Fletch, Your a good Man!
Thanks for the video homie, my 03’ H2 is going through the same issue with no power when I hit the gas… tomorrow I’m gonna try your method cleaning the grounds. I thought it was a transmission problem truthfully. Much appreciated!!
Did it work?
Thanks for sharing, sure hope mine is this easy to fix. I have a throttle position sensor on order for my 2011 Avalanche due to my reduced power issue that comes up intermittently and puts me on the side of the road. Restart truck and it's fine again but I surely will be checking all these grounds I have been learning about until the TPS gets here.
Thank you! I've done everything, replaced throttle body and TPS sensor, other grounds but I did not know about this ground under the door! I'll try this next
For that ground fix slide the conduit up to make sure both wires are connected. Another ground on frame, drivers side below core support. Single black/white stripe wire back of passenger head. Another by motor mount to block. There's more but those are the usual problem places.
Thx for the video. Don’t have that trouble right now but i was researching why these trucks have such poor throttle response off the line and i can across this. I’ll keep it in my favs.
This helped alot and fixed my problem thank you.
Thank you I will try that tomorrow morning Great video!!
I fucking love you man! You just saved me money by doing it myself and the two under the door was it! Thank you brother!
Love you too buddy 😂👍
Mine is getting almost zero throttle response. I can hold it to the floor and only get 1000rpm. Could this also be my issue???
@@christophersims5263 same brooo did you ever find the problem?
Early Christmas gift for my 2005 Silverado , Thx Bro !
I'm so glad it helped. CZcams has been a life saver for several things for me so when I figured this out I thought I'd share.
Nice! Saved me a bunch bud. I had the same issue today!
You're, the Fucking Man. 2004 GMC Sierra affectionately as "Hanna". She's part of the family. You have saved me from making a rash, decision. Thank you
I tried this and it worked thanks for the video
You're easy fix to clean the 2 bolts under the driver-side door made the ground connection better. It worked, and saved me hundreds of dollars $ and tons of trips/time paying a mechanic who could NOT find the issue during expensive diagnostic/trouble-shoots. THANK YOU!
Hey Fletch...the "Reduced Engine Power" alert came back, so I am wondering about cleaning the ground under the hood, think that is the culprit?
Those grounds help alot
Great tip bro! I'll Remember this for the future if needed
biker mike your the only genius I’ve ever seen watching these low quality how to videos before your stranded. Props to you sir. Wish I would have because I’m here out of desperation not education!
You’re the man, thank you so much!!
Well I have to say this fixed it man !! Right on brother !!
Definitely going to be trying this!!!
Thank you brother appreciate the help
dealing with same thing on buds wife yukon xlt the battery small ground wire is under the front bumper drivers side also needs cleaned and tightened !...So after lots of searching and videos I came across 1 guys forum post on a GM site. He removed the intake manifold to access those 2 bolts, mounted on back of head/block!....My last thing am in middle of fixing!
So the passenger side ground bolt, is top mounted on rear corner of the block , the braided ground to drivers side is horizontally mounted in back side of the head.....With the intake out of the way, REAL easy to repair those 2. BUT I added an extra ground wire along with the braided ground, and relocated both to the side of the head. Bolt fits the hole midway by exhaust manifold. So THIS will be easier to get at later down the road IF needed! Screw the back side of the head location!
Reassembling it tomorrow with new intake gaskets also since this Yukon does have 300k on the clock.....Funny, all this nightmare began when truck sat parked for a bit and the battery went dead!! Once I replaced it with a new $130 battery, its been stuck in limp mode throwing DTC P1518
So will see tomorrow IF I finally got this booger fixed! good thing I have short hair or I'd have pulled it out by now ! Engineers should have to work on their shit to see how stupid somethings they do in designing a vehicle is totally idiotic! hahaha
How did it go? I have a 04 Yukon and am interested if you got yours fixed.
@@budthechud3408 yes cut wires in split loom near brake booster dunno if I did that removing alarm horn or not. Not my typical goof up but it was the issue n fixed it once I repaired wires
why aren't all videos this good!
I'm having the same issue on a 2005 Sierra 3500. This will be the first thing I check! I have ALOT of rust on the frame and I am guessing I have a ground issue. I will re-post to let everyone else know if this fixes my issue. Thanks so much!
And.....
@@phouston6802 I ended up just cleaning and applying dielectric grease to the 2 electrical plugs on the firewall behind the brake fluid container (master cylinder). Unhook your battery first. Haven’t had the problem since.
It worked for my 02 silverado!
My 07 Tahoe having the same symptoms, gotta check if this would help.
Thank you so much, you saved me some money ❤️
So hey I have a 03 tahoe and when I stomp the gas it hesitates or like bogs kinda jumps a little when it's trying to get power I all ready did the gounds and sea foamed the tahoe the sea foam helped but still kinda doing the same thing any thoughts?
Thanks for this video....my GMC envoy also goes into reduced power mode when I go through a puddle or deep snow on the drivers side....really hoping it's a similar type fix
I went thri a big puddle today and same thing. Did u ever get it fixed?
@@suhhdudee5153 no...it eventually stopped on it's own and is running fine for the time being. But I'm nervous driving it everytime it rains
Damn yeah it sucks man.. Appreciate it
Worked for me. Thankyou
Thank you I fix it is working good now
thank you. that was very useful.
Many times I have found the problem to be a bad ground. The shops Never look for a 'ground' problem. (So I have to fix it myself ! )
Tnks a lot bro. Very helpful
My truck is not accelerating when I’m in gear. Wiuld that fix it?
Thanks man great tip
Just tried this. My ground was not between two washers (only reason to have two washers), but was instead right up against the body, dirty as hell. So I took it apart and decreased and wire brushed it. Will give is a go later and see if it helped.
Thanks for sharing my man
There's a second wire that attaches to the transmission that would cause poor grounding as well.
Coukd you tell ue where's it starts and finish location .
Please thanks
Where exactly?
Interested in this also.
@@johnkay8778 it attaches to the bell housing on one of the upper bolts. I think it’s in the drivers side
Hope this helps mine. Deff gonna try this for mine.
Just tried this
Im praying this fixes it gonna see if the light comes back after a few hours of sitting
Who the man , you the man !!!!!!
I'm chasing down hesitation on acceleration on my Vortex Silverado. I've addressed the frame grounds. Gonna look at this firewall ground next
Jason Ricci did you ever find the issue having same problem
Me to 2004 chevy 6.0
Same problem, what was the mix ?
@@chrisrowe9471 Turned out to be a small air leak from intake manifold gasket.
Jason Ricci same problem with my truck, hesitated and won’t get passed 3500 rpm. Changed maf sensor and that didn’t do anything
I'm hoping this is my issue. Been chasing error codes and intermittent problems for a week.
Thank you for the tip im having a similar problem with a 2003 Tahoe Lt 5.3l ill try that first when i get a chance.
How did it go iam having the same problem?
@@GoriSauceda915 im having the same issue as well do you have a check engine light?
@@andyhealey5567 yes, code p0300
@@GoriSauceda915 alright im getting a code po122 and I cant figure it out
@@andyhealey5567 had that same code as well. I got rid of it by replacing the throttle body with a new one out of ebay.
Awesome!!!!!!!!! THANKYOU BUDDY!!!!!!!!!
Mine died and started larer but check engine light comes on after resetting for about 5 seconds
after cleaning the grounds add
copper never seize then reinstall better than grease .
On my 2005 chevy suburban my issue was everytime i let off the gas pedal it boggs down like its going to break down and turn off with slight shake or trembles. It just started. I watched your video sounds like i have the same problems. I will check in it.
Let us know the results
thanks, it just happened to me and this fixed it instantly
James Paschal I’m glad it helped!
Fletch Magilacutty is your vehicle still running ok?
I have an 03 yukon denali started doing same thing no power when you press pedal
shane oneill yes, it’s still going strong with 175,000 miles now.
Thanks for the video bro. For the ground at 2:40 could you just use a wire and crimp the o shaped connector to it and reground it to the side of the engine/alternator or does it NEED to be grounded to the original location?
I don’t know I can answer that. I personally wouldn’t move it. Good luck!!
Thank you
I'm going to do mine soon
good work !! if all else fails , check you effin ground ......
Where is that located ?
@@albertoloya5025 under the driver side door in the chassis
Mine just seems to have no power climbing any hill. I will try this. Thanks.
Any update on this?
Thanks Bro, tanks very much
Has this problem returned? Let me know cause I'm going through the same problem. Getting p1125 code and intermittent "reduced engine power" on a 2004 silverado 6.0. Thanks.
No, it hadn’t returned but I’ve fairly recently sold the vehicle so it’s no longer my problem. Good luck!
I have a 2004 chevy express 3500 6.0 I could hold down the gas and the engine would rev but tires wouldnt move will this work for me
I doubt it? Typically the engine won’t rev with this issue. Yours seems more like a transmission issue? Good luck!
My 2004 GMC Yukon 1500 is always going into "Reduced Engine Power" Mode. When it happens, I get off the road, roughly idle to a hault and shut the truck off because it makes the whole truck shake. I would wait like 2 minutes and try to restart it and it would run fine but the check engine light would stay on for awhile unless it sits for a few hours and then that would even turn off. I brought it into GMC here in Winter Haven Florida and they have replaced gas pedal sensors, Throttle sensors and the whole throttle body and just last night, Into a 30 min drive, it would go into low power mode again. I had a 2 hour drive to family and back and it happened about 30 mins into the drive both ways. If I clean the grounds that you pointed out is it really going to solve my problem?
I can’t guarantee it will but it’s a simple thing to try and I bet it’s the problem 😂. It definitely won’t hurt to try, so give it a go! Your description sounds EXACTLY Like what mine was doing.
@@4fletch75 thank you, I will definitely check the ground wires tomorrow
There's two under the door, 2 on the back of the engine on either cylinder head.. driver side goes to the body bolt for a chassis ground and the other goes directly to the computer from the passenger side head. There's also a main ground coming off the battery to the side of the engine block.
Are people getting a code for this? I have an 05 sierra 1500 thats acting all crazy, but I've been chasing and changing emissions codes and parts. Code keeps coming back and when i step on the gas the truck barley moves but then it will get going. It idles fine.
@@matthewlewis9996 what you have going on sounds exactly like a dirty mass air flow. The grounds create different issues and compound other issues. You won't get codes specifically for the ground.
@@matthewlewis9996 check your coil packs that could be it also
@@TheGottyline i found out it's the shift solenoids in the tranny
@@matthewlewis9996 thanks for the response good to no on my 04 Tahoe I don't have any codes just lack of power when I need it so I'm try clean up those grounds see what happens.
Thanks bud
Hi I have a 2006 suburban when I press gas it hesitates at times I give gas and it doesn't get power i know its not the engine I shut traction control off and helps a little could this be my problem?
Try it😂. I don’t know if it will fix it, but your broken note seems similar to the same issues I had.
Good man.
will this work for an avalanche? anyone tried it? because i am stuck, and can't get the gas pedal off to replace it so will this work?
Casante Jackson it has the potential to work on all GM vehicles definitely including an avalanche. Won’t hurt to try before spending too much?? Good luck!
why are they grounded under the vehicle in the first place? can they be moved to be grounded somewhere in the engine compartment? great video btw... wish I saw your video before i replaced everything that still didn't resolve my issue
There is another ground in the engine compartment but it’s nearly impossible to get to unlike this one. I’m sorry, sometimes vehicles are such a burden
The solution can be much, much simpler. Before you replace a throttle body or an accelerator pedal position sensor, or even clean the grounds or replace ground wires, try this method. Get a can of full strength De-Oxit or Electronic Contact Cleaner. Find the accelerator pedal position sensor (right above the gas pedal) and disconnect the connector between it and the rest of the wiring harness; if you've done this before it may be simple, if you have not and can't get a good look at what you're doing, it can be frustrating, very frustrating. Once apart, spray both parts of the connector(pins and connector sockets) with a generous amount of the spray from either product, and the chemical spray will remove any corrosion in the connections, particularly if you put the parts partially together and work them in and out, then lock them together with the snaps. This bundle of wires controls the throttle position sensor (i.e. the sensor that moves throttle plate position inside the throttle body). After removing the plastic cover plate on top of the engine, find the closest connector to the throttle body, separate the two halves as you did with the other sensor down by the throttle pedal and generously spray both the pins and sockets in the connector halves, and put them back together using the same technique as you did with the first connector. Wait a few minutes for all the chemical spray to evaporate. The vehicle should start now with no more money lights or codes. If not, start working on the various ground wires and connectors as described in this video. To see how tricky these problems can be, watch part one and part two of D-Ray Smith's video on fixing this problem on his 2010 Chevy 2500 HD, published on CZcams on or about June 25, 2011. D-Ray is a country genius on diagnosing and fixing trucks.
Great suggestions. Where does one purchase “De-Oxit”??
@@4fletch75 Amazon.DeoxIT D5S-6 Spray, More Than A Contact Cleaner, 142g, Integrated Straw. There are several varieties. This is the latest, improved version.I have a 2003 Tahoe Z71 that I bought new. Our new car got destroyed in a rear-ender, my son had the Z71 at his house, he had parked it because the low-power message, etc. We needed something to drive. It took me 5 to 10 minutes with De-Oxit to cure all these problems, and I hopped in it and drove it home, 100 miles, at night, with no worries, no problems. I have had to spray it again after about 2 months, another 10 minute job. Had vehicle checked a month ago by the regular independent mechanic who has worked on it for years. Some worn steering parts replaced, but he found no bad wiring, no DTC codes, no lights. Friable corrosion is caused by vibration, and can be invisible to the eye. Moisture based corrosion usually shows as "green crusties" which are very visible, particularly with a magnifying glass. Overloaded circuits show up as burned connections and melted plastic. Don't overlook loose connections from pushed out sockets and using probes that are too large.(Happened to me last week on another car when I replaced A/C compressor switch - one connector socket was pushed out of the back of the plug.) A very strong flash light helps you see these issues. Follow South Main Auto and Pine Hollow Diagnostics on CZcams for great insight and more diagnostic tips.
That seems hard lol
I regrounded my engine and check ed the 2 grounds in the bottom of the truck and cleand them as well, also cleaned out the throttle body on top, but my truck keeps reducing power everytime i drive it, any more suggestions to help me out people i would appreciate the help
You may want to check your mass airflow censor
You may also check the wires coming right out of your TPS under the hood? First make sure the wires are tight. If you have a connector harness in that location take it apart and clean the connector then plug it back together?
Check your cables on the battery side post loosen I used a trickle charger and the code went away low battery can cause this issue too.
I will try this tomorrow.
What was your truck doing mine isn’t moving in gear weather it bring reverse or drive
Joel Acuna86 total loss of power although it would start and run. It didn’t have enough power to move well but maybe just a little if I remember correctly.
I have a 06 mustang and I’m not having throttle response and I’ve tried everything so ima try this. Maybe it’ll fix my problem
Google ground locations for your car. It would most likely be in a place susceptible to moisture and rust. If your case is like mine, you’ll be upset after replacing everything else when it was something so simple.
@@4fletch75 I still can’t find the problem. Might have to put it in the shop
Is yours a electric throttle body? I have 2000 yukon and it's crazy but I have a electric throttle body which I thought they didn't start using them on the gm models till around 2002 or 03.
Yes, it’s electric.
What if i only had one ground?? Mines a 2001 gmc yukon slt and man mines having same sin toms but i dont have a a check engine light engines running rough accelerates slow i press on the gas pedal and it picks up speed slowly i cleaned my throttle body ran Lucas injector cleaner has had a tune up before covid oil changes on time changed idler pulley new belts and tensioners... before i buy the censors i looked at this but i only have one ground took it to two mechanics they tell me my truck is fine no codes but man it keeps running rough
I don’t think there’s a code that says your ground is bad. A bad ground could however trigger several other codes. Clean the ground yourself.
Good evening. I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban 1500, I would like to know what could possibly be causing my truck to stop driving after a few minutes. But when I turn it off and let it sit for as little as a minute or so, I can drive it like there’s nothing wrong with it and then it will stop driving Could you please help , if you can
See my video on the suburban. Sorry, I just saw your comment.
Anyone know if the Sensors by the door & on the throttle body are the same??
I don’t know about a sensor near the door? The video is mostly talking about cleaning grounds? There is throttle position sensors on the pedal that talk to the one on the throttle body sensor but they are not the same.
I just bought my 2006 suburban from a dealership. They told me the power steering pump made some noises here and there when you take a turn. Twice now when I push on the gas going straight it has made that sound like it does when I turn but it just creeps forward and then after a few agonizing seconds it lurches forward. Does it sound like the grounding is the issue you discussed in the video?
Are you getting lights on the dash?
No. No lights
@@bethanynelson2678 it sounds like more of a fuel issue then? Sorry, take it back to the dealership if you just bought it.
They sold it “as is” so no use bringing it back. Turns out it was a wheel sensor.
Hello i have a cuestion , what code did you get before
Sorry, I never put a code reader on it. Just the reduced power light on the dash
Thanks