The problem with bad exhaust studs on some Ford cars and trucks is that the bolts are pressed in and made of harden steel. Once you grind off the rusty bolt, you still have to punch out the other half of the stud which is still inside manifold. Drill bits won’t go very far, even a cobalt drill bit. Normally you would use an oxy-acetylene torch and burn it out (while protecting the O2 sensor). The easy fix with Fords is Dorman P/N 23755 exhaust flange repair kit which fits over manifold shoulder and holds the exhaust pipes in place.
Yea, that's not how you do that at all. In either example shown, you would just cut the bolts off with an acetylene torch and replace them. Takes seconds in the shop. Otherwise, you heat the nut up red hot with a torch and zip it off with a 3/8 air impact. Signed, guy that did exhaust work for living once upon a time.
Agreed there are much faster ways to do it, but most people dont have access to acetylene torches, shops, impact guns etc. These are easier more accessible ways for people to do it at home rather then spending hundreds.
An old mentor of mine introduced me to heating it up and touching it with beeswax. The heat melts the beeswax and the natural oil in it creeps through the threads. Been using that trick for years on old steam flanges and pipe unions!
Forget these guys jumping striaight to the acetylene torch. Sure, if i had a garage where i could store it i would. For my old F150. I cant store the extractor nuts right under the seat and be good to go. Same with the angle grinder. Thanks for the video. Sometimes you need a precision surgeon. Something you just need a bandaid.
Mine is a pipe with studs so i cannot cut it off or screw up the threads on the stud. Its very rusted and when i remove the rust the NUT looks shiny like its molded together. Any tips, The Nut it self is okay, fits 17 socket but like i mentioned the back side of the nut to the stud looks molded together from the heat, my guess.
will this help with old rusty welded bolts too?, i have a stock exhaust that is welded in and need to get it off asap, including the header is looking like it’s welded in or maybe it’s just old and rusted, can i get some tips, or even better get the link where you got those
PB Blaster and an adjustable air hammer. Dial the air hammer down to a steady reasonable rapping and hose the bolts down. Maybe 2 minutes of rapping and the bolts will either vibrate loose or snap off easy.
For the types of bolts in the videos, a similar extractor that grips the outside would likely work. If the bolt head breaks off you will need extractors that drill into the bolt.
I literally spray them with pb blaster, walk away grab my impact gun and they come off every time, i see people at my work struggle all the time with this and i just seem to never have a problem with them, until them come in smashed lol
Of course you have to be careful when using a torch. Have your air blow gun a water spray bottle and fire extinguisher handy. I've had a few things on fire but haven't burnt the shop down yet ha! I usually use an impact wrench and find an impact socket that fits the often times undersized nut or bolt, then you might need to drive it on with a hammer first to fit it before heating it, don't heat the socket obviously. Then when you get it hot spin the nut or bolt off quickly so the socket doesn't get too hot and loose it's temper, but I use the torch most. Works good if you dare...
@@cruisinwithgreg google Honda converter bolt and it’s like the first picture . The top of the bolt is so small that putting a open ended wrench almost doesn’t hold it . And I haven’t found. Socket that fits over it . I got it off finally but it took me legit three hours lol tightening and loosing with endless on blaster . I’d be damned if I cut the bolt off
Hey thanks! Considering inductive heat guns can cost at least $200, it is smarter to start with solutions that cost less than $20 first for most people. Also these methods are much easier and not hard at all!
Sometimes getting confirmation on even the most basic tasks is all it takes to motivate someone to start a repair. Good video
Glad to hear! Good luck with yours!
More time? No way, just start with the grinder and you would be saving time as you need to change those bolt anyways 😂
.....bolts anyway.
Exactly don't waste time , just use an electric jig saw thieves use to cut catalytic converters it will cut anything and bolts are cheap to replace
@@kennyc388 LOL!!
@@kennyc388ok Karen.
The problem with bad exhaust studs on some Ford cars and trucks is that the bolts are pressed in and made of harden steel. Once you grind off the rusty bolt, you still have to punch out the other half of the stud which is still inside manifold. Drill bits won’t go very far, even a cobalt drill bit. Normally you would use an oxy-acetylene torch and burn it out (while protecting the O2 sensor).
The easy fix with Fords is Dorman P/N 23755 exhaust flange repair kit which fits over manifold shoulder and holds the exhaust pipes in place.
Thanks for the info and part number!
Great advice.
Yea, that's not how you do that at all. In either example shown, you would just cut the bolts off with an acetylene torch and replace them. Takes seconds in the shop. Otherwise, you heat the nut up red hot with a torch and zip it off with a 3/8 air impact. Signed, guy that did exhaust work for living once upon a time.
Agreed there are much faster ways to do it, but most people dont have access to acetylene torches, shops, impact guns etc. These are easier more accessible ways for people to do it at home rather then spending hundreds.
@@cruisinwithgregIt doesn't require hundreds. Anyone who works on their vehicle needs an impact wrench. Also, a propane torche is not expensive
@cruisinwithgreg you proceed to get the bolts off using your methods and somehow it's still not how you do it...where do these people come from?
bolt extractor sets are like 20 bucks so for entry level individuals its a perfect tool for the job.
I just use a sawzall to remove catalytic converters. In and out in usually 5 mins with trucks and SUVs. Maybe 7 with lower cars like the Prius.
Can confirm haven't gotten arrested yet
Hahahahaha
Propane heat will just loosen the bolt or drive the car until exhaust heats up.
Sometimes it is so rusted that even that won't help!
An old mentor of mine introduced me to heating it up and touching it with beeswax. The heat melts the beeswax and the natural oil in it creeps through the threads. Been using that trick for years on old steam flanges and pipe unions!
I have not heard of that, super interesting and thanks for sharing! Ill have to try that next time!
Forget these guys jumping striaight to the acetylene torch. Sure, if i had a garage where i could store it i would. For my old F150. I cant store the extractor nuts right under the seat and be good to go. Same with the angle grinder.
Thanks for the video. Sometimes you need a precision surgeon. Something you just need a bandaid.
Hey thanks! Yea different ways to do it but I thought these were simple accessible methods for all!
Heat will help immensely... Even a propane plumbing torch wool help
oh no it wooln't
Speaking from experience trying it now, not even a map torch is helping me at the moment
Mine is a pipe with studs so i cannot cut it off or screw up the threads on the stud. Its very rusted and when i remove the rust the NUT looks shiny like its molded together. Any tips, The Nut it self is okay, fits 17 socket but like i mentioned the back side of the nut to the stud looks molded together from the heat, my guess.
will this help with old rusty welded bolts too?, i have a stock exhaust that is welded in and need to get it off asap, including the header is looking like it’s welded in or maybe it’s just old and rusted, can i get some tips, or even better get the link where you got those
IRWIN Bolt Extractor Set, 5-Piece (394001) a.co/d/8lfghXP
PB Blaster and an adjustable air hammer. Dial the air hammer down to a steady reasonable rapping and hose the bolts down. Maybe 2 minutes of rapping and the bolts will either vibrate loose or snap off easy.
Thanks for the tip! Wish I had an air hammer and gun!
What do you do if the bolt is in a bracket? Can't put them out. (Rusted out bolts on electrical fan mounts 98 XJ)
Oooh. Is the bracket welded on or could you replace the bracket?
Fire 🔥 is your friend
would any extractor set kit work?
For the types of bolts in the videos, a similar extractor that grips the outside would likely work.
If the bolt head breaks off you will need extractors that drill into the bolt.
What? No air chisel? In the right hands, an air chisel is a precision instrument.
Unfortunately I dont have an air pump or chisel! I picked up the angle grinder for $20 though!
NEVER bang on your tools, especially ratchet, with a hammer. 😖
Definitely good practice! I was using a cheaper ratchet here so I wasnt too worried.
Need to do something for my o2 sensor bolts. They look melted.
Melted! That's rough.
I literally spray them with pb blaster, walk away grab my impact gun and they come off every time, i see people at my work struggle all the time with this and i just seem to never have a problem with them, until them come in smashed lol
So lucky you can get most off with just some pb. And impact gun!
Oxy acetylene torch heat the crap outta it, red, and itll come right off. Or put a cutting tip on and snip er off!
Of course you have to be careful when using a torch. Have your air blow gun a water spray bottle and fire extinguisher handy. I've had a few things on fire but haven't burnt the shop down yet ha! I usually use an impact wrench and find an impact socket that fits the often times undersized nut or bolt, then you might need to drive it on with a hammer first to fit it before heating it, don't heat the socket obviously. Then when you get it hot spin the nut or bolt off quickly so the socket doesn't get too hot and loose it's temper, but I use the torch most. Works good if you dare...
Oh, those induction heaters work good too, if you have one.
@@429thunderjet2 thanks! yea most people dont have access to torches or know how to use them safely!
Best way to do it
Yeah im just cutting mine and its a huge PITA.
The issue I’m running into is the bolts Honda chose to use are oddly shaped so I can’t get anything on it secure enough to turn
Not even for an extractor? Is it a flange or stud?
@@cruisinwithgreg google Honda converter bolt and it’s like the first picture . The top of the bolt is so small that putting a open ended wrench almost doesn’t hold it . And I haven’t found. Socket that fits over it . I got it off finally but it took me legit three hours lol tightening and loosing with endless on blaster . I’d be damned if I cut the bolt off
@noebernal9591 man why would they design it that way? I wonder what the point is
The only win here was the first one breaking. I just cut them off since I replace them anyways.
For sure! Sometimes easier just to cut off!
see I need help with mine bc the stud is actually welded a bit was wondering if anybody could help me?
Where is it welded to?
@@cruisinwithgregwell to the actual like base of that exhaust it’s welded from the actual stud side rather then the “end” of the nail
You call that rusty?
Not a single word about working smart and using an inductive heat gun! Work easy and not stupidly hard.
Hey thanks! Considering inductive heat guns can cost at least $200, it is smarter to start with solutions that cost less than $20 first for most people. Also these methods are much easier and not hard at all!
42 grams of TNT will get rid of the bolt
Turn it into a fred flinstone mobile!
easy to cut it and replace cheaper
It's crude to automatically assume that standard tools, cleaning and lubrication won't work.
Sometimes you need a little extra!
I give up! Hack saw it is
Let me know how it goes!
Soaked with oil one day before loosening the bolt.
That can do the trick! Sometimes it's so rusty there isn't a good surface to get a socket onto!
its BAD bolt can be cut and threads survive.
Hey so for these the bolt goes through the flange so no need to protect any threads!