Sound Deadening a Car Where It Actually Makes a Difference!
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- čas přidán 7. 04. 2023
- Using sound deadener in a car will definitely make the sound system sound better but does using sound deadening mats in a vehicle actually make it quieter inside the cabin? Ill talk about that and also where exactly to install the sound deadening material in the vehicle to take full advantage of the sound reducing qualities.
Ill also touch on the difference between the mat insulation like second skin or dynamat versus a spray on sound deadener like boom mat spray to Reduce unwanted road noise and vibration, even in hard-to-reach places.
Links to the soundproofing products I talk about in this video. All links are from Amazon and are affiliate links which helps my content at no extra cost to you. Thank you!
MY AMAZON STOREFRONT - amzn.to/47kB5gr
1. Boom Mat Spray On Sound Deadener - amzn.to/3KIoriX
2. Dynamat Sound deadening Mats - amzn.to/3trNCgq
3. Amazon Basic Sound Deadening Material - amzn.to/3AdwQFz
4. Application Roller - amzn.to/3Uxi0BZ
Link to my vehicle soundproofing Playlist - • Vehicle Soundproofing
soundproofguide.com/how-much-... - Jak na to + styl
Links to ALL products I recommend in the description of this video!
On your comment of insulating the floor of the car, I just put standard house floor underpadding underneath the carpet in a cheap econobox. It was so effective people actually would comment on how quite the car was.
I had the same stuff put under my carpet in my 70 Buick. Made a big difference.
Carpet padding? Isnt that stuff too thick to then have your car carpet fit properly afterwards?
Your experience over the years of making these videos is definitely showing up! This was much better put together.
Thanks.
I also did deadening on the roof. it didn't help much in normal day driving. but much better when it rain. It also help reduce heat from the sun.
reducing heat is interesting. but i actually really enjoy the rain sound
@@user-jc5ff7tu5o i love the sound of the rain! Just not when it fall on a thin metal sheet 😂
Rain on the windshield is very loud, but I had other issues when using the mat.
The sun effect is interesting for sure… having an all black interior that noticeably gets hotter the LITERAL SECOND the AC turns off full blast on a hot sunny day. This sounds interesting.
@@ultragalacticgamer7195 I wonder how effective the 'glue' is, under intense roof heat? It probably wouldn't stick long?
I have an 'entry level' vehicle for getting about and yes, it's quite noisy. Thinking that it's not good for my hearing. Been on my mind off and on for a long time to insulate it than it has. This video has spurred me on. Remember: No project's too big to start! 😂😢😂
You don’t need to cover the whole panel. Just 50% or even much less will already do most of the work. Search for sound deadening on YT and look for a video of ‘car builders - sound and heat’ from 5 years ago for a great example.
I kept my late husband in the trunk and the ride became soooo much more pleasurable and the sound changed dramatically. Had to remove him when decomposition started.
Seriously.
You could have kept him there for a bit longer if you used powdered lime. My condolences.
You shoulda bought a better quality body bag, it is worth the extra.
With a name like billiebobbie I believe you.
really great overview of different areas. The only thing I'd add is specifically in hatchbacks I have found doing the "trunk" area can make a huge difference since it's really inside the cabin vs. the mostly uselessness of doing the trunk in a sedan.
Also look under the back seat. My mk3 golf has no sound prodding under there. Throughly is I’m waiting for some welding to done so can’t start doing anything until it’s sorted or it will get stripped again.
My 2022 Kona N-line Ultimate has a lot of noise coming from the rear trunk area and rear wheel wells. Hoping to dampen that for better conversation with rear passengers, and for the Harmon Karden player.
A fabric headliner with a polyfill backing added (in addition to adding cheaper sound deadening material) is a great way to lower the road noise. Yes adding sound deadening to the floor, (and)doors, and adding closed or open cell foam in between the outer and inner skins r also inexpensive ways to reduce road noise. I've personally been able to reduce my ambient road noise by at least 3db. Also I'm only halfway done with my vehicle so hence y I say at least. (It's been 3db already and I'm not finished yet. I still have 2 more doors and 2/3 the floor to add material to).
the trunk is also dependant on the car. Newer cars are usually pretty stuffed with liners and interior/trim. Older cars, especially wagons, can benefit a lot from it. My car specifically, Volvo 740, has a solid rear axle and (iirc) no factory insulation and the trunk actually uses a lot of wood for the trunk interior, sound deadening the trunk area makes a HUGE difference on my car specifically, mainly around the wheel wells and where the axle mounts to the chassis to be specific.
Potential seal breakages and where stuff mounts to the chassis are areas you'll see a lot of improvement, suspension mounts like I mentioned above.
If your car has a tow hook then it could (theoretically) make a big difference when pulling a trailer considering they don't have suspension most of the time so your car is gonna absorb a lot of the road vibrations
Best of all is the trunk of cheap/barebone hatchbacks/estates because it's often just steel sheet down there. I once had a cheap mk.1 yaris and it made a world of difference just with the area aft of the rear seats; it muted a lot of exhaust rattle and road noise for very little money and effort. It's also really easy to cover the rear wheel wells in hatchbacks from the inside.
TLDR: Under Hood, Under Wheel Liner, Doors, Floor. Not the Trunk.
Trunk is most important due to subwoofers rattling the sheet metal. If you don't have a subwoofer then I guess you only need to focus on isolating the trunk from the interior compartment.
Also, what do you mean by TLDR? This is a video. Are you saying you didn't actually watch the video?
@@JasonWW2000 I use captions, so maybe TLDW, it helps to index the content even if it's short. With chapters on videos now it was hard to find unless you get through all the extra in the video.
that last comment about left over clips hits home. i can even count the number of times I've just said "F it" and left plastic parts off my car because of the hassle of those clips.
super helpful! I gotta sound deaden my honda as it's geting old and noisy
Wagons, hatchbacks, and SUVs all greatly benefit from added trunk insulation. Rolls Royce completely sealed off the trunk compartment of the Cullinan SUV because the trunk area was the biggest source of added noise over their sedans.
Guys this video n this man is honest . I amdoing sane thing same result . I need more video and advise for soundproofing engine car
Great video..thanks😊
Living up in cold Canada, any suggestions for a the spray brand? Wondering if that coating will stand up in the extreme cold
hey quick question here. to sound proof a window. by doing a window insert which stuff with rock wool sound insulation wont help too much right? because i just did one, i even have 1 layer of 1 inch plywood in it. and i cant even feel any improvement, is it because i have some very tiny gap in between the insert and the window frame? so the sound pass through those gap,i need to have a rubber surround around the insert like indow window insert or the window insert just wont work.
thank you
Sound deadening doesn't do much besides stop rattles. To stop road noise MLV or sound absorbing material is more important
This
What is MLV?
@@AndrewDasilvaPLT Mass loaded vinyl
You’re right but they all help, I do layers of butyl to reduce vibration and lower resonant frequency of panels, then on top mass loaded vinyl then on top of that closed cell foam
In an older car, sometimes, all you want is to remove vibrations
What's the sheet you have for the door? Looks like an interior panel?
I added a bit of sound deadening material to my hood and it didn't change the engine noise much on my Telsa.
Easiest tip - never mind the underfloor work. That’s hard, and not for everyone. Two negatives for it - hard and water absorption. Maybe the foam you use is closed-cell, maybe it’s not, how would you know before buying it (sure, there’s a description by the vendor, I know). Add a second set of floor mats, or some kind of under-mat padding, eg same underlay as for carpets at home. One big issue hardly mentioned, is fire. Hands up all those who flame-test the stuff that says it’s ‘fire-resistant’ themselves after they buy it. I got a shock, had some special foam pads for a loft, flame-retardant it’s meant to have…I lit it with my hob igniter flame just like the ordinary foam - both were self-perpetuating to a degree, once they ignited. But, floor mats, is my tip. Remember, these are the biggest flat sections of your interior, along with the roof and the door panels. It’s not just about stopping large flappy panels from undulating, it’s also about absorbing lots of little echoes that otherwise ping-pong around. But, good vid, thanks for these insights on other stuff. Take care all, and don;t be afraid to use earplugs for long lonely journeys, that works too (question for discussion: is it worse or better, to use the likes of Apple earbuds when driving, for your ear protection? My brother and I kicked this around. It is alarming how loud you turn the stereo in the car up, when going faster than say 50mph/80kph. Earbuds block noise, but do you end up turning them up too, so much it’s bad on a long journey? And, the earplug/earbud method, makes you slightly more ‘deaf’ to vehicles in close proximity. Anyway, points to ponder.)
been using airpod noise cancellation and it remove almost all noises in the car up to the point im out of touch with reality..feels like im just floating in my car
You also eliminate hearing any emergency vehicles approaching or me beeping at your floating ass 👽
The other cheap and effective way is to spray truck bed liner to your fender liner (only the plastic part)
It does reduced high pitch road noise
Which part? On the wheel side or top side?
@@inevespace On the wheel side. Make sure it has uneven texture finish.
Did you add deadener under the rear deck? That's where trunk noise would get through
Tips from my experience with my 2007 Mazda 3.
TL;DR: Basically no improvement. Suspension and the way it interacts and connects to your car is far more important for road noise reduction.
I sound deadened almost every thing I could get the sound deadening material into. I used Butyl sheets, Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV), and 4mm closed cell PE foam. I went with Noico brand, although brand doesn't matter at all.
I did the entire floor, all the doors, trunk, wheel wells inside the car, and trunk lid. All with all 3 products. I did the hood with some Dynamat 3/4" hoodliner.
I mean, it was quieter by about 1dB, and the speakers sounded better, but really not by much at all. I should have used less material on the doors because they were super heavy after.
Dam you went hard
Any suggestions on soundproofing a (very loud), old fashioned diesel engine in a sailboat? These old diesels give out a lot of low end vibration so that would be a factor. Additionally, the muffler (which contains both the exhaust gasses and cooling seawater) is inside the engine compartment, as an additional noise source. I placed a soundproofing mat on all the available surfaces in the engine bay (but that did not include underneath the engine aa any oil or cooling water leaks are fed into the bilge) and it made almost no difference. Any suggestions? Is there any material that might deaden the exhaust (which, of course, is quite warm)?
@stephenburnage7687
Unfortunately, Low Frequency vibrations, resonances, and direct sound sources are the most difficult to reduce. The low frequency sounds, vibrations, and resonances that we typically associate as engine rumble & vibration or exhaust drone begin around 100Hz and lower in frequency.
This is why we can hear sonic booms, thunder, and the subwoofers from from car audio systems over long distances. The high frequency wavelengths are dissipated much more quickly over distance, but low frequency travels large distances unimpeded even by multiple barriers.
It takes an incredible amount of mass (weight over a large area) in combination with excessive and very thick absorbtion materials to reduce low frequency energy.
This is because the wavelength of an 80Hz frequency is over 14ft long, and by the time you get down to 30Hz, the wavelength is over 37ft long!
In order to even begin to effectively ABSORB low frequency sound and vibrations, the absorbing material must be AT LEAST 1/4 of the wavelength of that frequency.
So, in the case of 80Hz, your absorbtion material would need to be 14 x 0.25 = 3.5 or 3.5 feet thick! That is obviously not practical in most scenarios.
Calculate the same 1/4-wave thickness that would be needed to absorb and dissipate 30Hz, and now the absorber material would need to be over 9 feet thick!
Your best bet is to try to find better double-isolation rubber engine mounts that would provide much better isolation and anti-vibration properties between the engine and the hull.
And then, also make the engine compartment 100% air tight and completely enclosed with 1/16"-1/8" thick sheet lead sandwiched betweeen two durable 1/2" thick layers of Closed Cell Foam which will act as a Sound BARRIER.
The sealed sheet lead box acts as both Mass Loading over a large area AND isolates and contains the low frequency vibration and sound energy within the engine compartment.
It's just like the windows in your home or car. When the window is closed completely, the least amount of sound from the other side will be heard.
But open that same window even a little bit with just a narrow gap and exponentially more sound will make it to your ears. ANY amount of actual air transfer between one side and the other results in a significant transfer of the sound waves and energy.
Obviously, due to the heat that is generated by your engine and the exhaust system, it would be impossible to completey seal the engine compartment.
You would need a pair of thick, heavy 4" or larger diameter cast iron pipes covered with exterior sound blankets combined with constant forced air flow via a fan to act as a fresh/cool air intake and heat + noise exhaust to an exterior area that is away from the living areas of the cabin in order to expel the heat and isolate and reduce the low frequency energy within the cabin.
And wherever those heavy pipes pass through an interior bulkhead and/or the hull to the exterior, they would need to be isolated from transfering their vibrational energy to the bulkheads and hull...i.e. a thick rubber or silicone gasket seal around each pipe where it makes a pass-through or penetration.
A rebuilt engine that is "balanced & blueprinted" or different engine and exhaust system altogether that produces much less vibration and low frequency sound energy is the ideal solution, combined with new engine mounts with better isloation.
There is also a non-hardening clay-type product called Duct-Seal that is available at your local hardware stores in the electrical department or online. It is used to make air- and water-tight seals in electrical conduit and wiring pass-throughs in beams and bulkheads.
If used to seal open holes or gaps, this might help to keep the vibrational energy in the engine compartment from escaping towards the cabin and living areas.
What are your thoughts regarding cutting thin strips of the sound deadening and attaching them to various arms on the suspension? And also the struts. Just to quell any small road noise that might be transmitted to the body from there?
No way bro lol that would be a complete waste
Wouldn't the same reduction in noise levels be achieved if the sound absorbing material be added in specific areas of a car, like wheel wells, engine compartment, and firewall? I noticed that the early model Lexus cars had similar sound absorbing material that looked like Dynamat that were cut into small sections and placed in certain areas in the cabin. My guess is that their sound engineers knew how to target very specific points within the cabin to reduce noise. I've seen other videos where people ensconced the entire cabin with sound deadening material and with very disappointing results. Therefore engineers know what they are doing with small swatches of Dynamat although it looks like they're being cheap with the sound proofing. The 1977 Lincoln Versailles boasted a sound deadening feature where the shocks were double isolated. Maybe experimenting with adding rubber insulators where the spring contacts the body of the car or strut housing? Tires also play a significant role in road noise, especially if they have an aggressive tread for winter driving or they are constructed for longer wear.
I have a hatchback/lift back. So sound deadening it's trunk is a lot more salubrious than a typical sedan
Salubrious?
@@ronald5728 yeah you have a lot more open space for drone and road noise in a liftback compared to a sedan where its entire trunk compartment is sealed off
Would it be beneficial to glue sounds mats to the bottom of the floor mats, as well?? (For road noise)
Here's a hint: I have a late 80's Mercedes-Benz and under the factory floor mats for the front footwells are factory carpet panels -- and those have contoured foam up to 2" thick underneath them. (The contours are to adapt to things like heater ducts to the back seats.)
Hi , can you or anyone else give advice on how to use a sound deadener on something like a countertop waterpik? I realize the actual sound will still be audible when turned on but will layering the deadening material at least reduce the noice that comes from the contact the bottom of the wapterpik on the counter ?
I've done a layer of the amazon sound deadening material (9sheets). I did the trunk but not the floor. I'm thinking of buying the 36sq/ft of the closed cell to add another layer to the doors and maybe the floor. Its an old 2009 Honda Accord Ex-L that has a loud cabin.
Doors and floors is where you will
have the most road noise reduction, especially on those older models where they would have much less sound deadening materials in them. Best of luck and let me know how it turns out!!
2022 corolla is new and still has awful road noise issues
I just did my doors in my civic today, I ordered more and I’m going to do the trunk and fenders above the wheels
@@rixzin5046did you notice a big difference after doing the doors?
Need link to doing floor.
If you got bass in the trunk. Do the trunk. Idk what hes tryna say but guys I all know love extreme bass
I've heard that using heavy-duty winter mats can cut down noise compared to the stock fabric mats. Have you tried this?
The thicker the material the better sound deadening
Will it also helps reducing wind noise in the car?
What if you did sound deaden material on the floor of the car then went underneath and speared the bottom of the car with sound deadens.
Is there an effect of these materials on the heat of the car ? for example a car parked under the sun and has noise-sealing materials for example( in the roof, in the hood, and in the doors), won't it heat up the vehicle more ? and also it's not take the car get rid of the heat more slowly on a hot day?
you are right about that. I have a VW T5 panelvan, i insulated it as much as possible. If i park my car on a hot day, windows into the sun, it gets as hot as a regular car and cooling down takes alot of time. Otherwise when i place the isulation corvers on my windows, it stays cool. In a cold winter day when using the heating, interior stays warm for a long period. Killed the noise in my van alot
You can add kilmat to the hood and then reinstall the insulator again above the kilmat?
Absolutely. Sound deadening material is thin. Stick it on (use small roller) to fully adhere. Then reinstall factory hood pad.
You didn't use any on the roof. I find a lot of noise comes from the roof, especially when it's raining. Using it on the roof makes driving in the rain much more pleasant.
I had a question, I just did my tirearch, i've put sound deadening + closed cell foam , however a mechanic friend of mine said this can only be done inside, if i did it outside, it will absorb moisture and develop rust, when I put the material on, the paint was intact coz the car is new, so I think it should be ok? i tried to search can you do it outside and foudn your video to suggest it can be done on outside? what is your recommendation? thanks a lot
close cell foam are closed celles they dont absorb any water, same goes for deadening
How long does that spray on deadener last? Would it be best to to use something like Kilmat instead?
They claim it can last the life of the car depending on where it’s applied. It won’t last as long If it’s exposed to the elements and road debris. Just make sure the surface is clean and dry before applying the spray. Best of luck!
I just did kilmat to my jeep and it has made a significant difference
I moved into an apartment close to a busy street. The noise from cars, motorcycles, etc. is quite bothersome. Do you have any ideas on how I can soundproof the apartment?
I'm renting it, so soundproofing walls or replacing the windows (which are triple glazed, but not soundproof) are not an option. What can I do? External shutters? Maybe acoustic panels?
He has already made a few videos on how to add sound deadening to an apartment.
Dual pane windows
Thick sound deadening curtains, acoustic panels everywhere, that’s about it really
My brother in law gives drum lessons in his rented apartment, he lined the 4 walls of the teaching room with those 12x12 egg cartons, the drum noise is cancelled out and you can barely hear the drums from the next room. He used blutack to attach the egg cartons to the wall because it usually comes off without removing the paint on the wall. You can cover the egg cartons with some wall sheeting if you don't like the look of them.
How much does it cost.?
Wich one cheap? I need very cheap soundproof
It's a double edged sword putting it under the hood, yeah engine sounds are reduced cool....but engine sounds are reduce....meaning you're less likely to hear a potential major issue before it becomes major....example Car starts to misfire.
Or just do regular PMCS on the car, or do not buy MOPAR, Ford, VW, Hyundai, Kia, Audi, or BMW vehicles and you will not have those issues to begin with...
Actually, the real issue of insulating the engine hood is that you're trapping heat in the engine compartment, shortening the engine and component parts lifespan. That's 1 major reason motorcycles and old VWs don't have radiators. They're air cooled.
I feel the same about doing the floor as well, especially on something like my 4WD 98 Cherokee because there’s a lot more that can go wrong than some other vehicles. I’m gonna get my sound system installed and see if I find it to be worth it to do my sound deadening before I move out/out of state one day where it won’t be nearly as easy to do a big project like that.
Wouldn't lining my car with rubber or something dense help more than actually applying this sticky rubber to the actual metal? Like just thick car mats
It would help but the sticky park makes it so it absorbs the vibrations a lot better than just laying some rubber overtop it. Both methods will help but the sticky part helps with vibrational road noise.
@@soundproofguide where is the ford excursion you have in this videos thumbnail preview?
This usually only alters frequency of the noise. You need foam on top of it and even massloaded vinyl on top of the foam. Vinyl needs to be insulated mechanically from the butyl-rubber. Foam absorbs noise quite well in its own. Just doing butyl like this is insufficient.
The trunk matters in hatchback
Bulk head and dash panel outer n inner sound be sound damping than c the difference.
The Care Care Nut had an episode which an old Lexus was stripped off, seats, carpets & etc, to give a complete cleaning.
There are only patches of sound insulation dampener in it. I think it cover not more of 25% of the Lexus body inside surface area. 🤔🤔🤔🤔.
Maybe accurate location for, application of the 25% of sound deadener, could reduce NVH by >50%?.👍👍👍👍. Regards.
Broken clips and left over clips will create vibrations.
Got extremly cheap foil topped butyl foam stuff material off temu. Like suspiciously cheap...any experience with that stuff?
So i only have it on the roof right now lol (cause i did the starlights in headboard.) It made the subwoofer sound a lot better. But road noise seems almost the same....maybe a little quiter? But that could be placebo effect.
Gonna do the floor. I suppose i will let yall know.
How is it so far?
@thelifeofaboi2693 it works really well! I noticed a difference in noise for sure. I did the cheap temu foil lined butyl rubber. And then I did a layer of non foil butyl rubber from Amazon. 30 buks for 24 sqft.....
Is it worth the money that I spent? Oh yeah. But I would absolutely not pay full price for this. It works I guess. But it's not like I'm in a soundproof room all the sudden. If the car is easy enough to take carpet out. It's worth getting the cheaper foil stuff.
But I've only had experience with this these two products. I would really have no way of knowing if it's good compared to name brand...but I could totally tell a difference in quality of the butyl rubber between temu and Amazon stuff. Amazon stuff was more dense. And at times the temu butyl rubber looked like it was melting off paper. But it does the job.
@@davidandrews5262 thanks for update!
Did you forget the roof?
Most cars already have this on the hood and trunk too.
My car doesn’t. It has a felt lining but that’s it.
My 2022 Corolla has no insulation inside the hood. It does have some very floppy insulation in trunk though.
@@soundproofguide pardon my ignorance
No you're right actually , it's just not GREAT sound deadening. It's thin felt for the most part ahah
@@DannySilva-xq2mx I'm right? lol
Your material prices are 2 elevated, a lot of debting noise up there.
It's like Chinese Medicine, every doctor has different diagnostics for the same symptom and every doctor has different opinion about the medicine. All claim that their solution are all about experience of decades of practice yet the effectiveness are all depending on the patients themselves. 😂
Research tires before you buy and don’t cheap out.
Agreed! Tires are the only thing between you and the road and not enough people take them seriously.
Where the f sound meter part is
Not once you mention the product. Why?
Just locations ?
and yet no sound meter was used.
Done right, it turns a rattle trap into a solid sounding car. For what cars cost they shouldn't sound like cheap pieces of sh*t but such is life.
If u need a video to remove a wheelwell liner u are in trouble..
What does someone charge to do this ?
I was quoted at least 2k for my whole car. It depends.
why - do - you - pause - after - each - word - when - you - speak? Do -you -think -english -is -not -our -first -language?
Great vid btw...
Why in the world wouldn't you do the trunk, that's usually the worst area in any car because of the subs being located in the rear of the vehicle? I know you want to eliminate any extra noise in the interior, but the trunk area I think needs more attention in most cases than the rest. I'm not saying to not do the interior, but I've always had more noise internally and externally coming from the rear.