The Cheapest and Best Sound Deadening Mat for My Land Cruiser!
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- čas přidán 24. 02. 2024
- How to install the cheapest sound deadener on Amazon and achieve big results! Today we continue the interior mods on my Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series. We'll be installing Amazon Basics sound deadening mat and Siless closed cell foam to reduce interior and road noise and hopefully make the interior feel more comfortable and quiet!
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Stuff used in this video:
Amazon Basics Sound Deadener: amzn.to/3URMphq
Siless Liner 157 Mil CCF: amzn.to/3UTmk1j
Roller: amzn.to/3SQyuFM
Interior Clips: amzn.to/3uDvLrc
Super Glue: amzn.to/3TccHIT
Shift Knob: amzn.to/4c3p9TV
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When I did the same with my ‘06 Tundra, I pulled the carpet out and called a local carpet cleaning company and signed up for their “3 rooms for $99 special”. When the tech showed up I told him 2 rooms were in the house and the third was in the driveway. He did a great job and the carpet looked pretty darn good!
That's pretty smart, lol. When I was looking to rent equipment at home depot, I noticed carpet rentals at home depot for 4 hrs was $25
Dude, the first minute of what you said is literally me rn. Feels good to be able to have money for my projects but different priorities now. 😅 wish I had a chance to meet you when we were still a local to the 559.
I still visit! Maybe you'll see me around on the trails
@@RM_Garage I’ll tell you what, Minnesota doesn’t have anything compared to Cali. 😂
@@vang1203 Cali is such a good place for project cars. Weather is never too bad except summer 100s
@RM_Garage you are from Fresno?
@@ClearWater7.62 I am from Fresno, but don't live in CA anymore.
I put the same amazon brand deadner on the ceiling of my Honda while I had the headliner out. It made a HUGE improvement in getting rid of the tin can sound, ESPECIALLY when it’s raining: the sound of the rain drops hitting the windshield and backlite glass is louder than the ones hitting the roof.
Doing the roof can make the biggest difference, especially in a truck like his. They usually put almost nothing on them from factory
TheRogueBro
So true I have a '97 Silverado K1500 extended cab and when I started my stereo system build I stripped the whole interior to do sound deadening/insulation and run cables and wiring. I was amazed at how little sound deadening there was from factory. There was none on the roof one small piece on each side of floor pan none in the doors and one small piece under the rear side window on each side and a small piece in center of rear wall there was also a very small piece behind radio on firewall. When I say small I mean like 4"×8" and very small was 3"×5". So needless to say it was a lot of material and work to get it right. Looking back it is a very good thing I started out by just stripping the entire interior.
Nice, what honda? I'm thinking of doing to my element
Doing the fender wells definitely helps especially if you go to a more aggressive tire
Replacement carpet is also available with something called "mass backing" which reduces sound transfer. Its a big investment on an SUV at around 700 bucks for ultra plush carpet with mass backing, but it is great at making the interior look, feel, and smell new, especially on older vehicles with damaged carpet (stains, cigarette burns, tears, or wear through). Ive used stockinteriors for carpet on several projects, and their molded carpets have always been top quality, IMO
I’ve used stock interiors and I’m a big fan!
Just used them for my xj turned out great
Some advice, start with fixing all the window and door seals. The wind noise is going to be most noticeable.
Then listen for the actual sources of vibration based noise and treat those areas. When the first source of noise is reduced, you'll then get a new noticeable source of noise. Keep going. Do the tap test to find resonances.
A trick I've always done is just remove the weather barrier all together and put a second layer of sound deadener in place of it. The layer on the outer skin deadens the sound of the metal itself and the inner layer helps deaden the sound of the hollow of the door, plus it better isolates the rear wave of speakers from the cabin area.
It's amazing how much effort you have to put into a Toyota to make it more pleasant for actual driving.
Like you were sayin it’s very difficult to show the difference that is made for far too many reasons to list but I think the most important one is noise reduction that isn’t truly shown on a decibel meter. The meter just reads the loudest frequency registered, it doesn’t show which frequencies were reduced and by how much. For example, we tend to be very sensitive to the 1k-4k hz and sound deadening/absorption mainly reduces that range. So you could actually have a 20 db swing that would go unnoticed due to its limitations. Second, the lower frequencies are very difficult to absorb due to the wave lengths being so long, it would require several inches of padding up to several feet depending on which frequency you are trying to limit. Luckily, the lower the frequency, the more pleasant it’s generally perceived.
This 100%. I've done some sound deadening on my car and while the decibel test provided negligible results (just a couple db) the actual real life experience is noticeably more pleasant. The higher frequencies are muted and road noise doesn't make having actual conversations annoying.
Glad I scrolled down - I don't know a lot about sound engineering or acoustics, and I was wondering this. I don't regret the 120 lbs. I've added to my small sedan. It completely elevates the car. It's also cool when the stereo is turned up, all windows and doors closed, and then I open a door and a flood of great sounding music comes out.
almost ALL resonate noise in a vehicle that large comes from, firewall, doors, rear gate... and believe it or not the roof of the vehicle acts like the skin on a drumhead. All road vibration while driving resonates UP, with all the effort you put into that you should do the ceiling & I would bet you would notice an Audible difference W/O the Db meter. I know I did, and I ONLY did the side panels doors and roof. LOL now mind you having crappy worn or chopped, or semi knobby tires doesn't help either(a good touring tire will kill a ton of road noise) Good Video!!
I was thinking doing the ceiling would also help reduce noise for anyone that has a roof rack.
Yes, firewall-doors-gate-WHEEL WELLS-roof.
- RMG is right, just do the doors and panels, BUT be sure to get those wheel wells covered too! You don't need to cover any of these 100% with the sound deadener/Mass-loaded material. Just cover most of it but you don't get much gain by going edge-to-edge.
- Tires are a big source of noise, and in a SUV like the LC, it's really big. Should always mass-load/deaden those surfaces that face the wheels as a priority, that wasn't really done here in this video.
- As to the roof - yep, lots of noise reduction if you do the interior ceiling, BUT - in any sort of hot climate, any time the vehicle is driven or parked in the sun, the heat will tend to soften the glue or bond, and then you get major drooping and all kinds of issues with it sagging into the headliner. It becomes a major PITA. The best solution is a spray-on deadener material that 100% bonds to the roof metal. That's a pain to do, but gives the least trouble long-term. And of course, any spray-on material is going to have fumes and stank that takes a while to go away. Again, 100% coverage isn't necessary, shoot to cover 60% to 70% of any of these surface areas for best 'bang for buck'.
I put sound deadening materials to my E28 floor, roof, doors, pillars and wheel well. It made a significant difference in reducing vibrations and rattles.
But the biggest difference in my case was when I put those soft sound deadening foam and carpet bits of a BMW 7 series, glued thin carpets on the inner fenders like what some new cars have and replacing every rubber seals on the doors and windows, it greatly reduced the road, tire and wind noise, the lot.
I put some under my headliner .. helped with heat transfer in the summer too
Time is the issue for most of us and/or a place to work on our vehicles. Nice video.
Yep. I'm fortunate to have a space to work on it but time...man. The ultimate dream is to have this be my job and then I will have time!
Im building a 7200 sq ft shop as we speak but it's 3 months behind schedule. I have so many projects to do and I'm impatient lol
@@RM_Garage
between biden economy, rent, bills and family, makes it difficult to justify
Those carpet cleaners/ pet vacs are great for lazy detailers who just wanna get the top of carpets clean and make "lines". If your gonna put in the effort and remove the carpet, lay it out flat, use a pressure washer and some APC. Best thing you could ever do.
Thanks for the heads up about the sound deadener. It's on my project list.Before I've removed carpet I took it to the car wash in the back of the truck and power washed it. Works like a champ.
I bought a cheap metal IKEA cabinet - threw a pack of those same sound deadening pads it it, and now it's just a dead thud on every panel 😄
I bought the Amazon basics stuff off return pallet warehouse for $1.50 a box. 10"x16", normally $40 a box. I managed to get 10 boxes for $15. Love the stuff
Nice score!
I paid full price 😭😭😭
Great video! Yes db scale is logarithmic, 3db is a double or halving depending on direction. 3db is usually what it takes for the human ear to notice although come can notice 2db. 6 db reduction is excellent!
Yup! -3dB is half the sound and -6dB is 1/4 of the sound. You cut out 75% of the road noise.
Totally inaccurate statement. Logarithmic at a 10db scale 60db is half of 70db in perceived loudness. -7db is a 70% reduction in that 10db scale.
Wattage is the same 1w-10w-100w-1000w are 10db increases in sound level. A speaker with 79db @1w is twice as loud 89db @ 10watts etc....
I have the same leaking rear window...looking forward to seeing the fix for it! Great idea on the sound deadening too...more projects!
I so get the opening. I had a badass 65’ Mustang my Dad and I built, but I couldn’t afford to what I really wanted. Later I had an 85’ GT, couldn’t afford to modify it. Now I’m about to retire for the second time. I just naught a $1,700 tool for my workshop and I’m shopping for a 66-67 Shelby, or a 66’ convertible to build up. I got the money, and about to have the time. Oh, on the sound deadening I used expanding foam in the body parts I couldn’t get to. I used neoprene matting between the skin and interior panels. I used some heavy duty sound matting for the flooring and doors and hatch. I have an 85’ Cherokee I take hunting. It’s rigged to camp in and secure my weapons. I have a great sound system in it. Now I can blow money on my cars and hardly think about it. Keep it up!
I'm glad people have been able to relate to that opening line. Love it!
I used it in my old Altima and I was extremely impressed.
I did it on my 2015 kia rio! I did not do the floor but the hatch and backseat are covered, plus doors and rear quarter...huge improvement !about 100$ and an afternoon work time. i used amazon basic too, great product...my next car will get the same treatment!
BTW, every three decibels is a difference of two times the previous value.
Yes this it doesn’t sound like much but a 3 db loss is huge it’s halving the interior noise in terms of what you hear.
so it’s like exponential
I remember adding sound deadening mats in my friend's Toyota Corolla as a teen. He could only afford to enough to install them in his doors first. It made a big difference. Then we installed some on his roof and that made a huge difference. I have a 2015 Toyota RAV4 that I've been tinkering with and this might be my next addition lol
I also have a 2015 Rav4 and am planning of sound deadening the rear seat and hatch storage area. Very very noisy and plenty of rattles back there. Toyota could have done more for sound proofing
It's so much nicer driving a car that has been sound deadend correctly. Even without having a big aftermarket stereo, it makes it so much quieter while driving. 👍
Nice job. I did the exact same procedure with the same product on my 97 LX450. It’s also a great time to change out the fuel sock if you haven’t yet. Great build and hope to see ya on the trail someday.
Ah yeah, I definitely want to do that. It's so easy to get to, might as well.
I’ve got a 97 LX also. What’s a fuel sock?
You can cut up and use a clear shower curtain as the door barrier. They sell them for $1 at the dollar tree 😊. One should be enough
You could also go to the local salvage yard and pick up a nice oem, factory door barrier.
Good Tip 👍🏻
Excellent idea! I never would have thought of this, but after I swap me door speakers, I will be running out and buying a shower curtain to replace the torn plastic.
That is a HUGE difference! Nice vid.
I just use Lowe's roof flashing. Has the tar and the foil. Works great and cheap as heck.
and outgasses the entire time... stinky
@@K03sport Hasn't done so yet! Been using it for 20 plus years!
I’ve used it before with good success. No smell at all. Just leaves a little more cleanup behind. Nothing major
There’s different brands of flashing with or without foil. The same thing, butyl rubber. It doesn’t out gas at all. Much less than dynamat but I don’t know if it’s more cost effective than the Amazon brand and weather it’s better or not, though.
@@markconley9279 Much cheaper! As for better I have no idea. But my Tacoma is quieter than a friends and he has Dynomat. But who knows how much and how its laid out.
Great video! I'm a total newbie at this stuff and found this really helpful. Gonna try using the Amazon stuff on my Highlander.
Also, in terms of noise reduction, I have noticed that sound deadening makes a HUGE difference at reducing the droning noise of A/T tires on pavement. My best friend did some sound deadening in their Jeep, and while the road noise only got a little quieter, it got WAY less annoying. Very important when you have to drive 2 hours to get to the trailhead!
Feel you on the money for projects. Bought a 2001 Camry, 16 years ago, and only just started. I blame 4 kids haha. But what i wanted back then has changed today.
Interesting that the amazon basics did so well. I plan to use an Australian made product for obvious reasons. But it did really well.
Should be noted, due to the way the decibel scale is, the quieter you make it, the more the measurement will jump around. But 60s is really good.
What product are you thinking? (I’m also in Aus)
Having and using a better roller than the one you use also helps tremendously
and the roller he used is better than having no roller at all
I've done the same on a 99 Tacoma and 89 4runner. Makes a huge difference on these old trucks. My next tackles on the 80 are both rear door lock actuators don't work and my windows are so slow. I think I already purchased the runs, but a bottle of silicone spray actually did wonders a couple years ago.
I figure, doors off, replace speakers, locks, refresh window grease and sound deadening will be a good 3 for 1 winter project .
My rear windows are so slow that they bind and fall off the track, lol. I've used the silicone spray too.
It could be the factory grease inside of the window motors has dried out and causing resistance. See if they can be opened. Clean and re-grease, it will make a huge difference and prolong the life of the motor.
Love your videos man. I got me an 40th anniversary 80 this year and I love it. Your videos give me a lot of knowledge on how I’m gonna tackle my projects on it once I can afford it.
Thanks man! Wish I could make them more often but super busy. New video soon hopefully
I've used B-quiet products in the past with excellent results. I run mostly minivans which have a LOT of relatively flat steel to resonate. Adding carpet to hard plastic interior panels both reduces noise and much improves the feel when touching those panels. A dash carpet reduces sound reflections as well as light reflections from the windshield. Spray foam (Great Stuff or equivalent) in hollow panel areas absolutely kills resonance. If any of your doors have only a single seal adding a double or even triple seal can really help. Higher trim levels of some vehicles or different "brands" of the same vehicle often have better door seals which you can add. Different brands of tire can make a significant difference.
You make excellent points and advice!
Great video. I just wanted to add my 2 cents. The decibel reading is a combination of sounds, not just road noise. You also have to factor in the noise from wind, engine, and tires. Tires are the worst because the type of tread can add several decibels depending on the type and how it interacts when in contact with the road. Add material to the underside of the hood if it doesn't already have it. And try adding some material to the inner fenders to absorb noise at the source. Luxury car manufacturers target specific areas of the interior and it looks like a patchwork of sound absorbing material when you take apart the interior. I suspect it's because applying soundproofing to the entire interior of the cabin won't result in a huge significance in sound deadening and it's not cost effective. Luxury auto makers also select tires that are quiet and I read somewhere there is a tire made with sound deadening material. Manufacturers also use special isolators in suspension components for their high-end cars. Rolls Royce had to remove some of their sound proofing because it was too good. Drivers were complaining that they didn't have a sense of being connected to the road and it was an eerie feeling while driving.
Closed cell insulating camping pads work well for insulation.. 1/2" thick so you must consider that. I put it over the butyl deadener.
To put that 3 decibels in perspective, if you were standing on a runway with a running jet engine and measured 110 decibels, if you fired up a second jet next to the first, the sound level would go up 3 decibels.
The opening lines here really, really resonate. I've had build sheets, lists, and bookmark folders for years now of all of the cars I've ever owned, currently own, or aspire to own. Gotta love it!
I used this stuff in my doors of my crv and it works great and cheap
Great tips. Love the super glue on the masonite. A big contributor to driving noise in general is noise from the roof. Wind and vibration. You don't need to insulate/add material to the entire surface, just enough to add weight as it will make a significant difference as well.
Thanks! I will do the roof in the future, probably when I fix the sunroof.
@@RM_Garageand the rear wheel wells…Why didn’t you cover those? Lots of tire noise comes from that area, especially in the 80 series!
I did, before I put the rear carpet back in. I covered the parts that didn’t have factory sound deadening. Didn’t film it
@@RM_Garage Use a spray foam, don't use MLV or the Amazon Basic stuff. Your arms will thank you, and it will stay in place when its hot from the sun!
I’m definitely going to put some of that sound deadener in my doors and quarter panels. And that tip about how to fix the door panels with the superglue Is a game changer!
One thing to be careful of is to make sure the super glue doesn't bleed through. 2 of the areas on my panel were *really* worn down and needed more glue than normal and it bled through. You can see it in the video when I reinstall the panel. This isn't normal, but can happen.
To anyone wondering if it's worth it YES it is. I have a 95 suburban and i used lizard skin which uses a special spray gun on the under side or the cab and a generic something like what is in this video on the inside and it blocks out most of the noise from my nobby 35'' tires. It was one of the best upgrades i've ever done
Don't forget the headliner for cutting the wind noise. awesome job.
For the sound coming through the firewall, whenever you have a dash panel off cover it in the foam or sound deadener. Stops vibration and reduces the noise. You can also put some sound deadening on the engine bay side if you really wanted too
I've used 1/2" recycled foam carpet underlayment as sound deadener in the side panels of a VW van. It works quite well with just some spray adhesive.
Good tip! I might do that
6 to 7 is HUGE. Remember it's not a linear scale! ❤
Did my 97 80 last summer with Amazon brand as the mat. Worked great. Thunk test is real!
Nice. I wonder what the Amazon brand is a mimic/copy of? It works really well
@@RM_Garage Exactly - the are totally "white labeling" somebody else's mat. Safe travels.
Love your videos man.
Thank you!!
I can hear a difference in road noise without the numbers verifying it.
Good job I'm sold on that product, thanks...
I used this exact stuff in my 2015 tundra about 2 years ago and it’s really really good.
How does your stuff hold up? I got Kilmat in my F-150 and it's falling apart after 2 years.
@@litoaykiu not mine. It’s held up really well. I’ve had to take it off a few spots and it isn’t easy.
Did you prep and clean before applying? And did you use a good roller for application? The roller is probably the most important part. It really bonds it to the surface.
I did the entire interior except the roof (which I might do this summer) and it made a big difference, especially in the doors and the way they sound shutting. It almost makes me want to do my tailgate… which is probably overkill.
@@garyng5662 The glue stays in place very secure. Cleaned and prepped, used the rollers that came with the kit; ones it is on it wouldn't come off. Kilmat did make a noticeably quieter. The issue is that aluminum and the black tar is turning into a white and black powder. Aluminum part flakes off. The only thing that is holding, is the glue.
I just did where carpet was since I got water in from off-roading and needed to wash and dry it. Back side was also done. Now, got water in plus need exhaust. Thinking of doing doors and more floor insulation to compensate for new straight exhaust for more ground clearance.
I have Weathertech floor mats (snowbelt with lots of salt), but majority of damage is on passenger side. My exhaust runs under passenger side, but I don't think it gets that hot make that difference. Since there is also power behind the driver where there is no exhaust.
even when u were in the car explaining about DB rating your voice sounded clearer and sounded like there was less noise
Being a former car audio installer, one of the biggest culprits for road noise is the roof and doors. When I would get sound deadening projects, I would do both.
Yeah the reason I didn’t do it is because the early 80 series (91-94) are so annoying to tear the head liner out of. I may do it later.
I bought the Siless version. Was a bit cheaper than even the amazon brand. Works well so far. Have not got interior back together yet.
I found noico 8 mil to be about the same as dynamat extreme, although a little less pleasant to work with. Honestly though, these products mostly work for vibration, not road noise. The biggest difference maker for road noise (BY FAR) will be a second layer of carpet.
Great video bro
Love the channel. Make more Landcruiser videos!
Thanks! Land Cruiser is all I do at the moment since it's my project truck. Finding time is the hard part! Appreciate it!
Good work! I like a wood grain shift knob.
Great job. Huge difference.
Thanks!
Good stuff! sound deadening definitely helps
Thanks man!
I have been really enjoying your videos. Thanks for taking the time to post them on CZcams.
I just finished installing the four door speakers last week using your guidance. So thanks for going in depth on the install.
For the sound deadening, I think I would like to start with the quarter panels and doors. How much material would you recommend purchasing if I only did those things first?
Another thing I would like to see you try is to figure out a decent subwoofer option.
Thanks! You could probably get away with around 50sqft for that.
Run some weed whacker string through the sunroof drains. Carefully. If you have a damp interior, they’re probably clogged.
Yep I've heard of that and I'll have to do that. Thanks!
I used weed trimmer string (orange) in my GTIs front sunroof drains. I used 3-4 inches and made a "U" shape and put it in the drain nipple in the front door jam. Then left about 1/4" visible. This was done to allow water and any small dirt to easily exit the drain and prevent backups
Might as well install some level IIIA soft armor in the doors and quarter panels while your at it
A 3db reduction is very noticeable to the ear. To increase the sound by 3db takes a doubling of the power of an audio amplifier.
So a reduction of 6db is pretty big for an ambient noise drop. Nice.
17:00 that's a freakin' genius idea, thank you for sharing that strategy!
Just be careful you don’t let it bleed through like I did!
Hi mate just watched this vid and realised, it is not that hard to sound proof and heat proof my 80 series Landcruiser. Will pick up what I need to morrow and get into it. All the best from Perth Western Australia Peace bro
Nice job
The science might have been a bit more accurate if you hadn't been going faster in the before video - i.e. 40mph before and 35mph after? That alone would probably account for 50% of the apparent decibel reduction?
Yeah that was an honest mistake. Thought I was going the same speed in both.
Researching sound reduction materials for my CNC. Pretty sure imma go with the automotive stuff here.
Didn't really need the decibel app, for confirmation. As long as your recording settings, and the mic you are using is the same?
You can hear the difference, between the pre, and post, of the soundproofing job. Your voice is much clearer.
Same mic! Thanks!
Dam dude. The back of the truck looks great!
My guy…why you letting out the secrets…now how am I going to get it for the low anymore😂😅. At 43 my life is project classic SUV’s I “give” to my daughters🙌🏾😂.
Adding some kind of radiant barrier material to the passenger side foot well and around the shifter makes a difference in the heat on the floor from the exhaust
A lot of people don't realize that most Amazon Basics products, are actually just other really well selling products, that Amazon has branded with their name. I remember buying some Amazon Basics knee pads years ago, only to find out that they were exactly the same as the Home Depot Husky knee pads.
6db is equal to about a 66% increase in volume to the ear. A doubling of the SPL (volume) to the ear requires about 9-10 db increase in output or the reduction in noise to overcome. All things considered equal it works like this. 100 to 200 watts, 3 db. 200 to 400 watts, 3 db more or 6 db over 100 watts. 400 to 800 watts another 3 db or a doubling of the volume to the ear. 8 to 1 ratio when sing wattage is the mechanism for the desired increase in volume. Since the same works in reverse, 3 db decrease in noise, same as going from 100 to 200 watts, another 3 db down, same volume increase as though you went from 200 to 400 watts, etc.
this proved that you can achieve good or even better results yet for a cheaper route.
yes it's somewhat a tedious job and in deed you had it done pretty neat. good job.
cheers! 🇵🇭
Awesome project dude! I'm planning on doing the same to my '95 Land Cruiser. Just wondering, how much of the Amazon Basics Sound Deadener did you end up ordering, to do the whole vehicle?
Amazon for the win! 👌🏼
Great job! You should check for rust at the bottom of your inner panels below the sliding rear windows. They are really prone to rust there. There's a drain plug there as well. It really sucks repairing that section if you have to because of rust.
Yep, I did. No rust there and then went ahead and coated it with rustoleum anyway.
Nice install.
I've used a material called Quik Roof that has worked great for resonance reduction. No smell, sticks like crazy.
Just another option.
Nice! As long as it doesn’t fall off or have harsh chemicals in it, then that seems like a solid option!
Really surprised that you didn't do the roof. That sometimes makes almost as much of a difference as doing the floor will
Thanks!
I've always wondered and thought the ceiling/roof would be one of the most ideal spots for sound deadening/dampening would make a big difference, especially it being the one biggest one pieces of metal that gets tons of wind, rain noise and usually has little to no sound dampening.
The mass loaded vinyl step is required. It is not optional. If you skip it, you will not be able to tell any difference in the sound level or quietness. You must install the mass loaded vinyl correctly by covering every bit of the surfaces in your car. Mass loaded vinyl is not the only option for the sound blocking layer. However, it is the most effective while also being the most expensive. It is also the heaviest by far. Jute is another lighter weight, and cheaper sound blocking layer option. Jute is also much easier to install than mass loaded vinyl. Jute is only about half as effective as mass loaded vinyl but half as effective is a very noticeable improvement. Jute is very commonly used in luxury vehicles from the OEM.
To test the difference between sound levels before and after, you need test over the same stretch of road, same time of day, vehicle speed and mic position, otherwise your results are almost meaningless.
Hard disagree on that advice of "covering every bit of the surfaces in your car" with it (Mass-Loaded Vinyl.) You only need to cover around 60% to 70% of any of the surfaces with MLV, to change the resonance and dampen the vibration effectively. Covering more than that is diminishing returns, and adds more weight with little extra effect. OTOH, you do need to cover all the surfaces you can with sound-absorbing material like the close-cell foam , carpet, jute, etc. as those will absorb the higher frequencies which are much more directional (as tweeters are) and can reflect and radiate around the edges.
What would you sound deaden behind the dash….mine is out currently…not a lot of room back there to put sound deadening material??
6db measured is good bang for the $$ and effort. While 1 person kinda (tried to) touched on it: a musical analogy/reference for the human ear to perceive change in volume, the increased output needs to be roughly 3db, this is AUDIBLY, at the ear. Now, "feeling" ie: low frequencies (bass) can be much less and 3db in 200hz or less is a MAJOR boost in low-end output. Another measurable way to look at it: to increase musical output inside a given space it requires roughly a doubling of output power (wattage) to achieve 3db of gain. So tying the 2 analogies together: for an AUDIBLE musical gain, a car with a measured 50 watts of musical power would require 100 watts of equivalent, clean, undistorted power to raise the musical "floor" 3db. So at 6db reduction in noise floor, that is the equivalent to 50 watts becoming 200 watts of clean musical power. Again, Logarithmic, 50w doubled is 100w, 100w doubled is 200w, 200w doubled would be 400w etc. a 6db drop in noise floor is HUGE. You caught the only thing I was going to say otherwise: every phone based SPL app has an averaging feature. At least the 15-20 apps I've tested against my professional SPL tool. Technically the MIC is the key to SPL and sound frequency measurements. But the way you conducted the measurements was a fair apple-2-apple comparison and very valid. To build on another comment: the Roof skin, liking it to a drum head is 510% dead on. Especially in an SUV or a Wagon. Any vehicle I build (for me or a customer) gets 2 layers of peel-n-stick (P-n-S) , regardless of Pick-up or Long Roof (Wagon/SUV). Lastly: after years of car audio competition as a pro-builder and competitor, on P-n-S we usually do a "checkerboard" pattern over existing good OEM deadener, solid overage over quarters, door skin backs, usually the interior door skin (where the door panel/card) mounts full cover and foam as you did. P-n-S full coverage does indeed add more effect but its the law of diminishing returns and more weight. Good Job.
Another awesome video bro. Did you ever find where that water leak was coming from? Noticing the same leak on my 93 LC80
Viewers are saying side window vent/louver area. I haven't checked yet but seems right!
Did you end up putting sound deadening over the rear wheel wells? If not, I bet that would help too.
Dude I thought I was the only one in the world that spent hours and hours writing detail lists of upgrade parts and theoretical builds in the future!
Just did this on my old c10.
Ballistol can bring failing window seals back to life. It's great at restoring plastics as well. You just use it as a cleaner and then buff it out.
You also need more than just sound deadener to do this correctly. That sound deadener is just the first layer for acoustic management and it's not actually designed to block out road noise. It's more for vibrations and insulation.
EDIT: I see you got the closed cell foam layer as well, that's the actual sound deadening layer.
curious if youll do the roof might only help though when its raining but still
Bro throwing away rare earth magnets from rock quality we can’t even mine anymore 😢🎉 great video on sound deadening! Good work!
I don't think those were rare earth magnets
Rare earth magnets are neodymium, but those speaker magnets are not
Rear tailgate/trunk helps a lot
Im gonna do my car because I am into the whole car audio thing, not much worried about road noise, im at the point of windshield flex, i just wanna try to maintain my SPL or gain a half a number or so, but, a 500 dollar budget is significant for this type of project to me. I guess i am just used to finding ways to stretch a buck
Would that help with roof rack noise if used on the roof?
I have several goal books with complete build parts and pricing and then Amazon list for each. I think I have a good 20,000 separate parts in the list
How would this stuff go if you get water in the cab?
It's a lot of work. Roller and utility knife are your best tools. I've been doing this to every vehicle I've own since the late 90s.
Great video! I really need to do this on my S10 Blazer, god that things noisy. Have you got any recommendations for other interior noises like squeaks and rattles from plastics?(Dash, door panels, etc).
Hmm. I would say that there was probably some rattle even when new. They didn’t use to focus on making cars so quiet back then. You could find what rattles and try to dampen sound by either replacing the part or finding what is making the noise and adding some sort of damper (rubber, butyl, etc) to stop it from happening. Or turn up the music!