Top 10 Car Soundproofing Products That Actually Work! DIY
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2024
- Making a car quiet can be difficult if you don't have the right soundproofing product to do the job right! These are all the best vehicle sound deadeners and soundproofing products on the market today!
These car soundproofing DIY tips will make a car quiet and more comfortable. These products are from car soundproofing foams to the recommended car soundproofing spray. I will also talk about a couple of products that you would never have thought of as a soundproofing product.
Here is an Amazon list of links for all the recommended soundproofing and car sound deadening material I talk about in this video.
1. Dynamat Sound Deadening Material - amzn.to/3f2cbYD
2. Noico Sound Deadening Mats For Cars - amzn.to/3f9f0Hq
3. Noico Red Liner Car Heat Insulation Pad - amzn.to/3iFkRq7
4. Hushmat Ulta Silver Foil Dampening Pad - amzn.to/3gAn5Fn
5. Wool Heat Insulation Felt Carpet Underlay - amzn.to/3iz1puY
6. Engine Insulation Liner - amzn.to/2D6NsnG
7. Spectrum Sound Deadening Spray - amzn.to/2DegORh
8. Flex Tape - amzn.to/2YZ2Mey
Click the link for the full in-depth article with much more information this video is based on. soundproofguide.com/top-10-ca...
Here are more videos regarding car soundproofing and vehicle sound deadening material test and car soundproofing before and after.
Best Vehicle Sound Deadener and Why - Dynamat vs Fatmat vs Kilmat vs Noico - • Best Vehicle Sound Dea...
Rubberized Undercoating FACTS - Sound Deadening Your Vehicle! - • Rubberized Undercoatin...
How to Make Windshield Wipers Stop Squeaking - 6 Ways! - • How to Make Windshield...
Bear in mind that some of the links in this video are affiliate links, and if you go through them to make a purchase, I will earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
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I noted only 9 products; not 10. Could you print a list for copy? Thanks! Very resourceful/useful to vehicle owner.
Follow this link :)
soundproofguide.com/top-10-car-soundproofing-materials-2020/
Uxcell Car Cell Foam, was the missing one :)
Imagine sound deadening your car just to find out that the noise is your engine knocking. 🤣
😂😂
Chevy problems
@@mytruthslays1303 “if its knocking its running” chevaltions 16:12
How true, the Engine is the CULPRIT, no engine the car doesn't move. Yabba Dabba Do.
I knew my engine was knocking before I installed the sound-deadening material, and now I don't hear the knock lol
I really enjoyed the mentioning of temperature control being important and a second later the little kid is being held hostage in the car and it shows how much the little tyke is enjoying the moment!
Also, I want to mention the oil changing in the first few minutes of this video. I can’t remember another sound deadening video that includes this priceless moment of real and effective means to make every possible effort to keep the cars external sounds to a minimum. Bravo!
And using as much of the product as the manufacturer was able to produce in a full shift, that assured that the company would continue to grow into the next fiscal quarter!
I used noico on my Lotus Elise hard roof which resonated quite a lot with engine noise. It made quite a big difference. You don't need to cover the whole thing to improve NVH.
Thanks for the comment. I’m actually looking to soundproofing old truck on upcoming videos. I’m in the process of buying an 08 tundra. It should be interesting so make sure to stay tuned.
You could always use a low pile carpet 3M adhesive to the inside of your fender wells to keep down sound from the road as well a lot of high-end cars such as Mercedes Volvos and certain BMWs have this and they’re fender wells
I'm learning a lote about the material and the quality of that material is essential to a good process.
I have successfully removed a LOT of drone noise and NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) from my car after doing four things that made a big difference. (And I had like everyone else started off by trying to get things quiet using butyl mats/dynamat etc. I realised that that had a very limited effect and beginners usually end up sticking down way too much of the stuff and later regret it because you start thinking how much you’ve weighed the car down by. And a year or three down the line you end up taking two thirds of it back out - or trying to). Here in England I run a 2011 Ford Mondeo (Fusion) estate/station wagon. MY FOUR BIG TIPS for INSTANTLY reducing noise (REMEMBER - you are NOT going to get your sub-$25thousand dollar car to hush like a Bentley. BUT - you can get a LONG way towards it.) NUMBER ONE - REPLACE YOUR TYRES. If you want quiet, you need to LIFT the car further away from the ground and have less tyre in contact with the ground. So run NARROWER tyres with a TALLER SIDE WALL and if you can a SMALLER RIM SIZE. I replaced my 215 55 R17 tyres with 205 65 R16 tyres on replaced 16 inch rims. This dramatically reduced the rolling drone of the tyres on the road and gave a softer ride because the taller side wall raised the car further above the ground as well as reducing the contact with the ground. Yes you will get less of a sporty ride but I’m not interested in a sporty ride. NUMBER TWO - INSERT SURGICAL TUBING into all your door seals. You need to improve resistance to outside sounds coming in. Adding surgical tubing into all your door seals makes them nice and snug. Don’t go TOO tight though - get the right tube width - or else you won’t be able to shut the doors and you’ll feel real dumb. NUMBER THREE - Buy cheap ‘RECON FOAM’ cut it up into small cubes and shove it compacted into all the empty cavities under the trim around the console, footwells and glove compartment. You wouldn’t believe how many just open holes there are in that area doing nothing but causing sound from the engine and up from the ground to reverberate around. Foam (NEVER USE SPRAY FOAM - it will enter places you really don’t want it to get and you will never get it out in the event of a repair requirement) dampens all that NVH and contributes to the multi-pronged solution we are going for. You need to do a LOT of things to add up to removing those decibels. NUMBER FOUR - Go to the back of the car. On most cars under the rear bumper on the left and right corner areas hidden away you will find a one-way ventilation flap on each side of the car. These are interior pressure flaps that allow air to escape from the car when the doors are closed and to allow ‘used’ air to escape from the cabin as new air enters from the front air vents. BUT they usually are located behind a very large cavity that sits adjacent to the rear wheel arches. In some cars you can reach into this large empty cavity through the back hole at the rear of the small felt door/closet you find in the left or right wall of the boot/trunk - the little hidden hole you might put an emergency traffic cone or yellow jacket in for example. I discovered these cavities causes a LOT of droning noise. The noise from the rear wheel comes straight through them, reverberates and comes out through the interior rear air escape vents. FILL ONE OF THESE CAVITIES UP! Don’t fill both - you need one to maintain the ability to release the cabin air pressure remember - and often the fuel fill area prevents access to one of the cavities depending on if you have a left or right hand drive. But if you can get access to one side - fill it up tight with old rags, recon foam, old carpet that can be scrunched up - you want as much as possible to remove cavity space that creates reverb. Use anything not too heavy but DENSE. So recon foam, being more dense, is a lot better at dampening and muffling drone than, say, bubble wrap. Pack it in tight - and there’s room for a LOT of foam and rags in there. The more you stuff in the quieter you'll get. This for me REMOVED 80 to 90% of the heavy drone in the back of the car - which had been particularly irksome on long motorway journeys. NUMBER FOUR POINT ONE (!) Not essential but this improved my car dramatically - If your car is one of those that tilts down slightly towards the front end (to allow for the backend to dip slightly and the car to even out when the trunk is fully loaded) buy a pair of polyurethane lifting spacers to sit at the top of your front struts. Your garage can fit them for about $250. They again move the front end higher off the ground, away from the noise of the road. So coupled with the tyres we’re really changing how close we are to the noise of the road. Plus they make the car sit more evenly and look a lot better... SO These are my main tips for really getting to a quieter, pleasant drive. And they have really worked for me. I wish you all the best with your own particular car - every one has its quirks and every one will have slightly different solutions. It's a lot of sometimes unpleasant work, but persevere and you can get a nice result.
Very good tips.
Most of these are also light and reversible (unlike the awfully expensive and heavy Dynamat which is a complete no-no).
Where should I take car of to have it sound proof ? I am usa.
I've used kilmat on several Ford e350 shuttle Vans for limo service. Road noise significantly reduced. I also installed behind front fenders, firewall and hood underside. I ran a few strips on the frame and coated with clear coat to waterproof. Big difference.
Thanks for sharing!
You put some on the exterior of the car open to the elements?
Yes
I just bought a couple boxes of kilmat, did you do single layers or how much did you use?
@@AnaIG4 double layers around high impact areas: the inner doors and the inner body where the door hinges are mounted.
Several years ago I took out the floor carpet of my Ford Escort to put 2 layers of wood floor underlay underneath - The car felt so much more quiet and luxurious after that LOL - Nice and quiet. I would have done the headliner too if I'd thought of it!
I saw the same comment like this somewhere else lol. I put some mineral wool in my car paired with foam sheets and it helped reduce the noise. To reduce the vibrations, I used bedliner on door panels and floor, but you gotta use a lot of it to get to a good spot. I will however redo everything soon as I need to redo the wiring in my vehicle. Btw, it's a MK2 Golf
Do you recall how thick the wood was? Is it that 1/4” type underlayment, w/the smooth surface on both sides?
Thank you for doing the research. I have a step van with a 5.9L Cummins. Super noisy. This helps so much.
Vans are horrible to start with as they actually amplify noise. Any noise coming from a bad differential will sound like live grunge band. All Diesel engine use the heat of compression to ignite diesel fuel so there are no additives for that. The bad news is it’s huge, takes a ton of material and if finish and not a bare bone work truck, you will spend hours removing plastic panels and break fasteners. Do it when it’s warm as clips will break real easy when cold. Sorry! ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Hood liner helps with diesels also.
The most underrated soundproofing material is spray foam insulation. I have used good stuff and DAP foam insulation inside body panels to cut down sound transfer. This works well in pillars, and wheel well areas. The foam will pernitrates into areas you cannot put peal and stick sound deadeners. In the cargo area of vehicles there are a lot of tight spaces where foam works well. I would also begin with a spray on undercoat. Most of the road noise will come from the wheels on the road and the exhaust drone along with wind noise under the car.
I go to bunnings and buy grunt brand flashing tape , its aluminium foil and butyl backed adhesive and costs only $8 , comes in strips about 8cm wide and about 3.5 metres long . It is really really good for the price , about 3 rolls will do doors ,parcel shelf and boot . Just tap the metal and white it sounds thin and tinny put a strip , afterwards it sounds like a solid thud . Can't beat the price or quality as its bit thicker than dynamat
Thicker doesn't mean anything. The specific formula of the butyl is the most important thing. For instance, in objective testing, Dynamat Xtreme performs significantly better than Stinger Roadkill Expert, despite Roadkill Expert being heavier, thicker, and having a thicker aluminum layer.
According to their website, it's bituminous flashing, not butyl. Still very effective though.
@@florascent9ts That is actually false, it is not very effective at all. I tested these kinds of flashing tapes last time I did a big run of tests with a controlled test rig and calibrated measurement microphone, and they were junk compared to even the bottom of the barrel sound deadening specific products (ignoring fatmat, which is just rebranded flashing tape). Not to mention flashing tape has poor heat resistance due to its bitumen content.
Let me put this another way. Peel and Seal, a similar flashing tape, reduced the amplitude of the resonance on the test panel by less than 1 decibel, with 28.5% coverage of the panel. Dynamat Xtreme reduced the amplitude of the resonance on the test panel by 11 decibels, at that same 28.5% coverage.
I did the same, it worked great. I doubled it in places where I felt I need more deadening.
@@chrispurdue5762 simply knock on your car door without it ,sounds tinny...
inside door put couple strip's and knock on door again and its a thud , I understand you went proper scientific style but many people are just happy with a solid non resonating structure , I definitely noticed a huge difference before and after in sound quality
Pretty informative video and well edited, i have a Kia K8 which already have pretty good sound insulation but it has 19 inch wheels with low profile tires, what is the best solution to reduce or remove floor vibrations?
The main thing to remember when sound deadening and sound proofing your vehicle is using more than type of material. For instance you need to use the foil backed products but also should use a similar sheet product with acoustical foam. Then you should focus on how its installed, meaning taping the seams and pressing the mats forcefully with rollers to promote adhesion and proper noise cancelation. And don't fall for name recognition you will overpay for that name, there is so many products that are the same or better than those big names at a way more affordable price. Trust that you will need lots of material to properly complete the installation process and saving money because of a name on a box will help make the process more affordable and make sure you get the results you expect.
There’s a dedicated group on Facebook that does actual tests on deadening products.
Dynamat actually ranks among the best out of all the products. If you think Noico and Kilmat are as good as Dynamat or ResoNix etc then maybe you ought to have a look at their tests yourself. As far as MLV & CCF products, your comment applies.
@@JohnDoe-us1ek whats the group called? Looking on doing it this summer
@@JohnDoe-us1ek What name does the group use?
@@JohnDoe-us1ek I love when people mention a certain something that did tests but don't even mention their name or a link
@@JohnDoe-us1ek ResoNix is dogshit. That so called group you speak of is run by the makers of ResoNix you expect them to say any other product is better than their dogshit? lol Their tests are flawed.
Thanks for your prompt response to my request for additional information. You are a very good teacher. I have learned a lot from your instruction. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the youtube audience. CWB, TN.
I use killmat, they have 2 thickness available and the thicker is a bit better and I have had really good results and I use it because I add amps and subwoofers to my car which create vibration
One thing that I've noticed making a big difference is getting the windows tinted. I'm guessing the film helps to decrease vibrations coming through the glass.
I would have never in a million years imagine that
I can’t tell if your joking or not but the material used to tint your windows is incredibly thin, there’s almost no way it could dampen or reduce any sound unless you can somehow hear sunlight. That’s like saying wearing sunglasses makes the world a bit quieter for you.
The inner seal for the glass on the bottom can get worn with age and window tint will seal up the gap again causing the air movement from the speaker to seal inside the door better.
Great video! Just a heads up there was an accidental overlay with with outro.
Great vid! Man, if you did a Model 3 guide that would create a crazy amount of interest. The car needs reduced sound dampening, but despite forums full of people trying to add dynamat and such, it's still hard to see a big improvement.
Late response I know but I think Tesla adds road noise.
Oh wow, i wouldve bet just the opposite, since its pretty hard to hear Ev when driving. At least from the outside. I figured that if i can hardly hear it on the outside, it cant be much on the inside. Guess i was wrong, huh?
In the past car manufacters used sheets of lead, because it's heavy. For anti-rumble (low frequencies), but i think it's not allowed anymore to use lead. To reduce rumble(so low frequencies, you need mass(weight). Someone (a loudspeaker builder) once told me that. For higher frequencies you need other materials.
foam is better for high freq. and rubber/denser materials are better for bass/low freqs.
@@amtra1778 Okay Amtra, thanxx
what neoprene foam type is best for soundproofing?
could i use engine insulation liner for indoor soundproofing? i have some extra in hand, but i'm not sure if it's recommendable.
New to you channel. I drive lexus es300h 2017, on highway its loud. How much do you think it will cost to install all around the car. Aprox
Would a butyl deadener like dynamat work well over bedliner for rust protection and sound insulation
I use Maxxis Bighorn Tyres in my Isuzu Dmax 2017. The mud terrains are noisy as usual. Will these technics work for my situation?
I need a sound Deadening for my model Y , thanks for you tips
Dr. Detroit Metal treatment is one of the best products to reduce the noise from the engine. Been using it for 30 years
Rubber membrane for doors and windows and it comes in a variety of widths on 50 ft rolls ,pella tape
Thank you good man good job
Thanks for watching 😊
Do they also use so called rock wool or polyurethane foam? And those active noise cancellation systems like in headphones, me likey. Do they already manufacture smartphone apps, that would drive simultaneously noise cancellation with radio play or something? There is microphone, then just in principle pi radians phase difference and right decibels and thats it:)
To reduce the most noise, don't let your mother in law in the car. 😂😂😂
Here are some to add to your list.
Acoustiblok Blok16 and Blok32 sound isolation material. Use to soundproofing recording studios, buildings and car, or whatever.
Lizardskin spray with Sound Control and/or Ceramic Insulation.
i've often wondered about using silicone glue for sound , rustproof "tar" for brutal weather areas.
Silicone will peal, and rot and then you will have leaks. Check out silicone breast implants ... they are covered and still leak.
What sound proofing is there that doesn’t get hot so if I were to make an enclosed area for an example a recording booth people wouldn’t be too hot?
do you think studio sound proof would work better?
For van life can you use sound deadening mats with spray foam? Also I am wondering how do you sound deaden the cab? I think the spectrum sound deafening spray in this video then doing mats. Does it ever get to the point of diminishing returns?
Use the 25% rule on Diminishing returns.. u only need to cover 25% to achieve a huge return.. sorry this reply is 7 months late
@@MrFife314 helpful tho
Be warned that using anything in the doors will eventually hold water and accelerate rusting. Even many spray-on products get hard, crack and cause rust as well. Never used the shredded cloth type materials as they work like sponges under wet or snow covered feet on floors or inside doors.
Where the glass meets the paint, if the glass moves, that is a belt mounding and are designed with a felt like material. If worn or missing, the moving window will stick bad or stop moving. These cannot seal water out completely. This is true with most floors when snow melts. Under the rocker panels and doors, you will find drain holes spaced across the panel. Without them or plugged up with debris from leaves from trees, the panel will hold water. It is the same at the backside lower section of the front fenders behind the plastic panels. In front of the windshield is a high pressure area for air while driving. It is funneled into the cabin of most vehicle when fresh air or mix is selected. Fine, but leaves, tree seeds and other material get in there and if not plugging up drainage paths, then this material collects, holds moisture and rust out the cabin corner and back side of fenders. I had a single customer who complained or water-like noise and ground the drain holes where plugged on the passengers door that was never used. It had about 30 gallons of water inside the door and drained for an hour after cleaning with small hook and compressed air to get the materials out. Hope this helps. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired.
Thanks for the heads up. What is the best place to soundproof in your opinion?
@@efeerbas2709in the ear
Well, anything you do beyond the factory will help. “Kilmatt” I think is cheaper than most, put that on the floor and up the bulk head (Called Fire Wall by some who have thermal events) Double up over the exhaust unless you are going for duals someday.
Inside the door bothers me the most, I will explain. The skin is folded over the door frame, spot welded and seam sealer apply. It get wet inside and leaves and just get in there. First, check the drain holes, blow compressed air to open. If you take the door panel off, you will find plastic water shield. (Hum, water shield) it protects wires, switches and speakers. The bottom corner to the center need vacuumed out. Those corners get no protect other that a factory dipping. Buy a yellow waxy spray-in type rust proofing. Describe it just like that. It will make door corners last 10 years longer. Same under hood at the front, rear and sides in that order. Lay plastic garbage sacks turned inside out so you can use them, to catch drips. Open trunk and pull back carpet near inner wheel arch. Do the gas cap side more because it is tricky. Spray where inner and outer meet. Gravity will help on warm days to run product completely into the corners. Gas cap sides are bad. They have a pocket for the filler neck, lid, inner metal tube for vent. (Please note; This is rust proofing while controlling sound. What is worse? A quit car or a quit car with rust along the bottom everywhere?)
Materials are better but made like shingles on your roof, asphalt and butyl rubber. A laminate roller from home improvement store works great. If you can change bulbs and disconnect electrical connectors, wear rubber / latex gloves but while at home store, but a tube of dielectric grease. Apply like 1/2 tooth paste onto/into connectors or bulb sockets as this keeps water out and moisture from the air. Weather-Pack connectors are common but not perfect. Use on spark plug tips and batteries used in car, flash-light, bulbs. (Note; Do not get on headlamps bulbs or oils from skin. Clean with isopropyl if needed)
I have seen spray-on rubberized super-supper-Heavy-Duty spray get hard, crack, hold water and cause rust fast but is quieter. Put on inside. Clean out vents in front of windshield as this debris ends up in the bottom of both front fenders until rust or small tree shows. Clean out by turning wheels and remove bottom fasteners (All kinds, pull-out rivet type, screws, plastic & metal) but pull out bottom 4-6” if plastic and clean with air, garden hose anything will help.
Yes, sound proof clean floor, wipe with isopropyl or wire brush. If you are outside and have respirator, acetone works good as it dries very fast with no lingering oder, or outgassing. Both are flammable while being careful, disconnect negative battery cable. If your vehicle is close to 20 years old or more, you may have to reset the clock and pre-set radio stations. It will NOT clear codes set by engine or turn speedo to zero. Cut to fit the frame of the door where the plastic water shield goes. A hair dryer will help remove the plastic from rubber adhesive that is to be reused. Packing tape will hold it in place or if torn during service. Keep rust proofing off internal door locks & latches. Use an oil can dispenser to place a few drops on these parts. To keep doors from freezing to rubber seals (Found in Owners Manual) but purchase silicone paste in cans that have brush applicators and spread along lightly, spread with fingers as to coat the seal. Gently wipe off excessive silicone grease if applied too thick. This hydrates the seals and makes them last longer and never have a frozen door in the winter again.
Hope this helps, a little long, but 38+ years of fixing cars teach you what works! ASE Master Tech-1978-Retired
@@deankay4434 damn thats a lot of information sir. Thanks for taking your time off and sharing your experience. It will definetely come in handy. Take care
Put,transmission fluid in as rust,prohobiter, it works, but I just cleaned all doors, and,filled even the rocker panels thru the door covers in holes at the bottom door way, plus putting Vaseline on,door rubber to keep in from cracking causing water entry
So what product is the best bang for your buck that’s similar to the dynamat
Butyl rubber vs asphalt based which ones the best one for car deadening material?
Soundproofing =/= sound damping. Most products in this review are damping materials and help reduce panel rattling by adding weight. This reduces the resonant frequency of the panel. They do block a small amount of noise but the material used by car manufacturers to block noise is MLV (mass loaded vinyl). It’s a thick heavy rubbery material which is typically dark grey or black. You can see it under your car’s carpet especially in the footwell area on the firewall. There are a couple sound proofing car companies that sells it. I’ve used it in a few vehicles and the results are great. Use the dampening in this video to cover 25% of your panels and then cover the areas with MLV. Your car will be much quieter.
I used tar paper and it worked almost as well, but a lot more cheaply.
@@Lughnerson u mean like the roofing "tar paper"? That's genius😅
I might just try ice shield lmao
MLV is a blocker. You need an absorber as well, of which you forgot. Felt or PES is the answer.
I am trying to reduce the noise of my 3D printer (Bambu Lab P1S), by adding sound deadening material to the inside of its enclosure.
The printer will be located inside an airing cupboard, which is on the other side of the living room, so I am also considering adding some sort of sound deadening to the walls of the cupboard too.
Any advice you can give would be very welcome.
Thanks.
Thanks
Can i put it on the engine?
I don't think it'll over heat since it has a radiator.
Wat about heat and after that gets really hot the qemicals it lets out ? n the smell to wen it get hot on those days 🤔
Hi, do you know if the rain affects the kill mat? Because if you attach it to the door panel, i am assuming it's going to get wet when it rains. Thanks
Idk about kill mat, but I have used Second Skin Damplifier Pro for years inside of doors with no issues. Just don't plug up any drain holes and you'll be fine. They are completely waterproof
Hi,
I am writing from Brazil. I would like to know, please, if there are any courses for upholstery Sound Deadening cars in the United States.
Great video- but it didn't cover what I was looking for-- I was looking for sound deadening and heat insulation material for the roof of a car " 48 in particular. Some sites and people say some of the soundproofing comes loose if it get's too hot or to cold.. Large roof on a '48 Ponty can get pretty scorching in July at a car show and in the winter an unheated garage can get below-10- A plastic or board type headliner may not show a loose deadener or loose heat shield--- but a cloth one would.-- another site claims only Xmat won't come loose and will stay in place with high heat.
Try with stp silver/Gold
plus
Stp Biplast 6 or 10.
The spray on they mention @6:45 works best for your application. That specific product Spectrum, from SecondSkin has a heat rating of 400F. That is mainly for soundproofing though, they also have a product specifically designed for thermal insulation, called Firewall Ceramic Thermal Coating, and it goes on, and feels afterward, much the same way those spray on truck bedliners do; so a much more natural oem feel to it than a bunch of sheets of butyl baking up the place.
If you have a cloth headliner you could try cutting up some windshield sun blockers. They are aluminized bubble-wrap - very light weight. Use spray contact cement like headliner spray, which is designed for car heat. Also use Dynamat, but do the 1/3 rd trick instead of full coverage, you put it in the center of the roof areas.
@Trexy K frost king duct insulation has like r value of 6-7 I think can’t member but yah a roll if I recall is 12” wide by like 20 foot long has the sticky foam/ foil top’ I did just the doors on an old car and was shocked how well it worked’
$20 a roll at Walmart or menards here make sure u clean surface well or it won’t stick also use a roller trust me or it will come off but it’s a great cheap alternative
Best video yet
Isn't there any material you can install on top of the carpet but below the mat? Like it doesn't have to be adhesive, just absorb sound
I want to see someone experimenting with different cheap sound deadening stuff for cars - on an outdoor mini split unit (air con). I expect it could help. When I first switched mine on it made an awful racket because a component was touching the side of the case, I shoved some foam in between it and the case.
That’s a great idea. I’m going to make a video of just that this year at some point. I’ll probably use the Amazon basics sound deadening material.
@@soundproofguide They make "Compressor Sound Covers/Blankets" but I've only seen ones for the big American types, not the smaller rectangular types. I'm sure if you could get one of those (or same material) on the compressor that would defo help. I need to take the front panel off to see what's going on in there. There may be room to put one of the jackets on the compressor, and maybe stick some sound deadening material on the insides of the case.
Nicole is good stuff
Oh, I usually don’t let tire noise bother me. But if I go on a long ride, I use a pair of orange earplugs that I get from Home Depot for construction sites, that’s right for five cents. I could have the quietest car in the world. I definitely use it when I go from New York to Carolina.
or take out your hearing aids 😂
common man which one is best?
I would be more than interested in seeing a couple top teir sound deadening materials go head to head. Soundskin pro vs. Membrane (made by Restomod air!?) Thoes are my top 2 choices and I can't seem to decide between them...
Or even Second Skin audio
thats a job for "project farm"
@@krusher74 oh heck yeah, I don't think Membrane makes it anymore though. Their website was gone last time I had tried to look. Love project farm though!!
named here are my two favorite products. although I have used and like Dynamat, Second Skin and Soundskin are my two favorite products. If I had it to do again on my beloved GTO, it would be entirely them.
Can you use these options on Tesla’s?
My special brand of autism makes road noises of plastic rubbing together or uneven tires any weird non-rhythmic noise I can’t block out so thank you for this
Thanks for the review, be good and may you live long and Prosper!!!
Hi, if i put sound deadening material inside the door panel, does the rain water affect the performance of the material? Is the adhesive going to be affected? Thanks
People do that. The glue is pretty strong once it sets though and the material is rubber so it should be waterproof.
Could you put some of this in a sunroof cover to get rid of some of the wind noise?
Nope. Sounds like bad gaskets or Fit
Noico has a 315 mil thick soundproof sheets, which seems like it would be the best sound deadener
the 315 mil is closed cell foam for use over butyl rubber. The closed cell foam is not as effective in reducing vehicle vibrations as butyl because it’s for absorbing sound but not dampening.
at that thickness you would have to expect for it to be the best sound deadener lol
@@andrewjohn6853 mil is not mm
lol i just google it - I used dynaliner which I think is similar and it was about 12mm or so thick which would be about right for 315 mil is around 8mm. Thanks for showing me something new.
unless its a very small car or you use a ridiculous amount you shouldn't worry about the weight theres no way youd add more weight than a adult passenger. if your adding sound insulation its obviously not a race car so dont worry about 25 50 lbs a audio system weighs more.
so true. I never understood why people worry about extra 20-30 pounds using material to make a ride more agreable and do not worry about the fact that they can be or are 40 pounds overweight. Go figure!
the best one is car builder sound deadening
I've heard of these products melting and ruining some interiors. Which ones can put up with a Texas Summer and sitting in the sun.
I live in Houston and have the same question. Everywhere I look people said it smell bad in hot weather, So I dont know which brand to buh yet.
@@nanowar1192 Same... I didn't even consider the smell.. Thank you for mentioning that. I love the idea of mats, but if it turns to goo, and smells, I'll just stick with old school jute mat.
Are you able to double up deadener mats? To cut down on noise as much as possible?
Yes
Yes, but its not as a noticeable effect as the initial layer. Getting a thick enough layer to begin with will help more than doubling up smaller specs.
I double lined the inside of the outside facing door panel on all 4 doors. they say 35% coverage is the sweet spot and beyond that is diminishing returns. that being said i always get compliments on how quiet my car is with minimal road noise. single lined floor with dynamat and on top of that dynaliner foam in large sections all the way up to parcel shelf and about halfway up firewall. single lined entire boot with dynamat. overall my 4 door sedan has around 100kg of sound deadening material
I think one of the most impactful thing you can do to reduce the noise is changing all the windows into laminated glass and use double rubber insulation on door crevices.
I use self adhering modified bitumen roofing. The price is $100 for a 100 sq ft roll.
Tar paper.
Would that actually work?
If you want to kill sound you must have 8 mil minimum but 10 plus mil is recommended. Also, you only want butyl rubber on the floor and foam in the doors/dash/headliner. Foam cell sound deadening is far superior at stopping sound but is less durable. Soooo in the large air cavity’s you want lots of foam. My car has 18 mil of foam in the center of each door tapering out 10 mil. You want to get into the door cavity inside of both panels as well as interior facing panel and behind your Trim. I promise you that more expensive means nothing. Siless brand off Amazon is perfect. What matters most is understanding how sound is transferred in air cavity’s and through material. Also, I have 10 large puck magnets from harbor freight located through out to cut down even more.
Seems like a herculean task for a non handy guy like me, what should I expect to pay if I were to hire someone? And can I do in sections? Like trunk and engine bay first before doing the cabin part that requires heavy disassembly? That's the part that scares me. Idk if I trust people to reinstall back to spec without damaging or altering something
I’ll have a few videos in the future on soundproofing my car and you can see how simple it is. I’ll just do one section at a time. No rush to do it all at once. 😊
@@soundproofguide sounds scary but I'm open to seeing the process! Thx bud
Wich one beter and cheap?
getting poly fill or anything like that to fit in open spaces
I apply a waterproof caulk directly to the iron plate and spread it flat
It takes 24 hours for the caulking to dry
The cheapest
YES! Seam sealer in a caulk tube does the trick!
I use floor underlayment
New wrench turner here I'm doing a first-time build on my 1990 Toyota 4Runner. It's going to be Overkill and everything will be exactly what I want which is over-engineered.
Would it be possible to use hey spray in conjunction with Dyna matting? Looking for sound deadening / cut down on heat transfer / all around insulation...What's a killer combo someone could throw at me...
Second skin sound deadener and spectrum sludge is the best hands down. Sound skin sells both. Second skin not sound sound skin sorry.
What kind of glue or tape can i use to put on the roof racks on the truck? Anyone?
Thanks! great content! Quick question though, i got someone offering me a full sound deadening service and they mentioned that they plan on using Acoustipads which are asphalt based and has an aluminum later on topside, i was wondering if you have any experience related to it? any comments or suggestions? Thanks!
Do not use anything that has asphalt in it, Just google how dangerous asphalt products are for you to breathe! Not only that it usually produces a nasty smell!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 Thanks! they have been very persistent that it's a better option than those STP mats that are more common in the area. Will try to find killmats or something from your list that maybe available near me. :)
Asphalt will have odor
Can we sound proof the house Ac is right beside my window plus the neighbours Ac maybe if I sound proof the window will be ok ?
it depends on how thick it is, and where it's placed between you and your ac
AC installers often do the job too quickly and don't put rubber dampeners on the bolts. It's a $10-20 part that must be installed to reduce vibration. Check if you have them. It's about 2-3cm thick rubber between the bolt and the AC.
@@DataLog you have no idea what you’re talking about
need a compressor insulation blanket. Not rubber bushings.
do they isolate heat/cold from outside too?
Not overly.
noico works i used 5 boxes worth about 30 pounds a box.. Did every surface of the car even under the roof lining.. pillars all doors you name it.. A little overkill , all the sound I hear comes from window Remember glass thickness is important to
Thanks for sharing!
I wonder if there is a sound deadening film that can be applied to windows?
So, what about eliminating the sources of the noise? For instance, your tires, exhaust, wind under and around the vehicle? Did you create those noises for others but don't want to have to live with them yourself?
I cover my ears with my hands, and it's like a Rolls Royce, but then a bend appears, and it's time to grab the steering wheel again.
I think second skin still the best out there
A question for you guys or anyone who knows about this stuff, my new car makes a booming low frequency noise (like a subwoofer) when driving over cracks and rough surfaces, and I have noticed that the noise appears only when the rear tires hit the road imperfection, the front is fine. What is causing that, it is a new hatchback car, the service says its normal but the noise is too much. What needs to be soundproofed in the rear to make it better? I did only the trunk floor so far , nothing changed.
Get Pirelli AS plus 3 super quiet tires and lower the air pressure in your rear tires. Manufacturers put toi high pressure recommendations to meet mpg targets.
@@briank10101 I use 16 inch all season tires, do you know which tires is best for noise and comfort?
The dynamat vehicle was a vintage VW bug!
Dynamat is over priced and you are paying more for the name. Damplifier and Damplifer Pro from Second Skin Products is superior. For a spray on product, Lizard Skin is the top performer in its class. It’s available both in a conventional formula and also a heat blocking ceramic formula.
Have you tested these products to back this up?
@@BillyRay501 yes
@@firstdaddy which is better the liquid? Or other stuff
@@BillyRay501 depends on what the application is. You can't make an overall blanket statement that X, Y, or Z is the "best". However, you can make a statement for which is best in its class. For tradtional adhesive backed sound dampeners, Second Skin makes the better product. For spray or roll on products, Lizard Skin makes the better product. All confirmed with a NIST traceable calibrated measurement microphone.
Incorrect. Dynamat Xtreme performs nearly identical to Damplifier Pro from Second Skin. Yes, I have tested both, along with 20+ other products in a controlled environment
There are several problems with this video. First at least four of your ten sound proofing products are just different manufacturers of the same aluminum backed butyl sheets. Second you listed flex seal as a sound dampening material its a realy sticky tape but not a sound dampening material. Three you repeatedly said that aluminum backed butyl sheets reduce sound levels in a car it does not (buy a db meter test it for your self) it does dampen the vibrations of the sheet metal helping to lower its resonance frequency down to an inaudible frequency as well as reduced the transfer of vibrations. But bang for your buck its not going to be your first choice to lower the ambient sound level in your car. Mass loaded vinyl is a good choice, high density foam is a decent choice. You mentioned using wool carpet pad and thats a good choice and is a product already used by auto manufacturers its called jute carpet padding and can be found at upholstery supply stores or Amazon.
I would like to know why the cost of these products range from a couple dollars/sq ft to $10 or more/sq ft. It would have been nice if you factored that into your ranking but I did not hear any of that. You also intermixed sound proofing with sound deadening throughout. Are they one and the same? I would think not.
maybe you should make a video addressing that. Feel like you are knowledgeable enough so why not tell us about it rather than complain about him not mentioning it.
@@jerbsherb4391 the purpose of comments is to make suggestions as I did. These are not complaints. Take it easy man.
@Ryan Roberts Smaller wheels, narrower tires, with higher side walls.
Where should we take our car to have the soundproofing done? I want to make sure that everything is put back and tightened properly .
Detailing service
Don't bring it anywhere, do it yourself and save money you lazy bastart. 😂
I would start with quiet tires
Amazon basics sells sound deadening material.
They do! And I bought some! I’ll have a video about that soon!
@@soundproofguide I've used it a couple cars now, noticeable difference. Seems better quality than Fat Mat and is easy to work with.
@@soundproofguide what is better kilmat or dynamat?
the shit aint rocket science boys adding almost anything will help thin noisy sheetmetal.
What do you think of lizardskin?
I’ve personally never tried it but I’ve heard positive things about it!
Doesn’t a lot of the sound come from the windows? I’ve seen people spend a ton on sound deadening only to be disappointed. For example of what I have a “little experience” with is a 2008 f-150 vs the 2014 f-150. Both are king ranches. The 08 was sound deadening treated $1500 dollars worth. Yet the 2014 is still quieter inside. Evidently the body mounts, firewall insulation, and glass …..Or is this just rumor?
in regard to your comment sound is like water and will always find the path of least resistance to work its way into for you to hear
In 2008 the idea of a luxury truck was still new, by 2014 luxury trucks were the flagships of the brand. So it not surprising that $1500 of aftermarket sound deadening wasn't able to out perform a completely redesigned truck. Millions of dollars of research go into making these vehicles comfy. In 2008 they couldn't even be bothered to add a decent radio, but now they're cutting edge etc...
Where can we take our cars to have this done PROPERLY And put everything back in place tightly?
Pretty much any car audio store gunna cost u a lot though best to get repair manual shows how to take apart interior of your car save a lot n labor
Which one you think would be the best one?
The thing is that I don’t really care about engine noise. It’s the road and wind noise that bother me. I like hearing the roar of my engine over my music.
In that case, all you need to do to eliminate road noise is to add deadener on the cabin floor and inside the doors. Also adding something in the wheel well would help if there's nothing there already. Leave the hood as is if you like the engine noise. Best of luck!
Just a gentle correction: using the word “proofing” would be incorrect here. Noise/sound control/reduction would be appropriate. “Sound proofing” a car would be an incredible feat
What about for car audio?
It makes the audio sound better since its biggest purpose is to sound deaden which will greatly reduce vibrations and rattles.
1:14 beeeeeeelow
My biggest problem is wind noise in my truck!
mats in doors and weather stripping around window edges will help
I can imagine Kidnappers be watching this for Vans
Most lucrative customers.
Another nice attempt, but how is thud any more different or informative than your video from last year? Same 5 products with some fluff added to get to 10.
Best product for the doors? They definitely need to be waterproof