AFM DOD Delete Part 3 - How to Remove 2014-2018 Silverado Sierra 5.3L and 6.2L Motor L83 L86
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- This is the third part of a multi part series where we will be fully deleting the Active Fuel Management (AFM) / Displacement on Demand (DOD) system from my 2014 Silverado with the 5.3L L83 motor. This process is the same for most Silverados, Sierras, Tahoes, Yukons, and Suburbans made after 2006.
In this video we are showing how to pull the L83 5.3L from my vehicle and this process should be very similar to the L86 6.2L. This process should directly apply to the 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra.
In part four of this series we will be showing how to disassemble the motor to prepare it for all of the new components that will be going in!
👉🏼 LINKS TO PURCHASE TOOLS & PARTS FEATURED BELOW👈🏼
#GPIPerformance #DODDelete #AFMDelete
⚠️Try anything shown in this video at your own risk ⚠️
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Associated Videos - AFM DOD Delete Series
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Pt 1 - Baseline Dyno: • AFM Delete Part 1 - Wh...
Pt 2 - What Parts Do You Need • AFM DOD Delete Part 2 ...
Pt 3 - Engine Removal: • AFM DOD Delete Part 3 ...
Pt 4 - Engine TearDown: • AFM DOD Delete Part 4 ...
Pt 5 - Installing New Parts: • AFM DOD Delete Part 5 ...
5A - Cam Phaser Install: • AFM DOD Delete - How t...
5B - Trunnion Upgrade: • How To Upgrade GM Trun...
5C - Lashing HP Fuel Pump: • How To Properly Lash H...
5D - Injector Seals • High Pressure Fuel Inj...
Pt 6 - Reinstalling Engine: • AFM DOD Delete Part 6 ...
Pt 7 - Tuning and Dyno Run:
Pt 8 - Installing Intake Manifold, TB, and Air Intake:
Pt 9 - Tuning and Final Dyno Run:
Epilogue AFM/Delete Gone Wrong :
Terrible Noises: • Terrible Engine Noises...
Time for a New Motor: • DOD / AFM Delete Gone ...
GPI Saves the Day: • AFM Delete GONE WRONG ...
Lessons Learned: • AFM Delete GONE WRONG ...
Useful Write-Ups and Videos that we referenced in creating this series:
Tahoe DOD Delete Video Series: • DOD Delete kit using t...
Camaro DOD Delete Write Up: www.camaro6.com/forums/showth...
Corvette DOD Delete Write Up: www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...
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🔩Parts (Affiliate Links)
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For the parts needed to delete AFM and add some more power, check out part 2 of this video series: • AFM DOD Delete Part 2 ...
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Tools (Affiliate Links)
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The Milwaukee Impact Is a MUST HAVE for this job and stands up to all of the abuse I put it through. It is by far the best tool purchase I've made and has a small enough body that I can fit it just about anywhere.
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Milwaukee MLW2861-20 Mid-Torque Impact Wrench (M18 Fuel 1/2") Tool Only: amzn.to/34k4R48
Milwaukee Impact Full Kit (With Battery): amzn.to/2PD06xq
Here are a few 90 Degree Drill Adapters. I have used the Dewalt one extensively - This is definitely a must have tool as well.
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Dewalt 90 Degree Drill Adapter: amzn.to/2PD0njW
Milwaukee 49-22-8510 Right Angel Drill Attachment: amzn.to/2PiXYfi
ARES 70790 | Right Angle Driver: amzn.to/2RPYfZ0
Fly Wheel Flex Plate Holder Locking Tool: amzn.to/2PKNOD0 (From the Q&As on the product, it appears this will work with our L83 motors)
Harmonic Damper Puller : amzn.to/36mAfCf
I have confirmed this model works (I've used it); however, to remove the last 1/4" of the dampener on the L83 dampener, you will need to add a spacer to the shaft as it bottoms out. A small bolt works perfectly.
2000lb Engine Stand with fold-able legs: amzn.to/2R3TJUp
Engine Stand Mounting Bolts: amzn.to/2QXPBW8
Engine leveler: amzn.to/3tFsu56
Sockets & Wrenches:
We Recommend GearWrench
Standard (English) Impact Socket Set: amzn.to/35KId7o
Metric Impact Socket Set: amzn.to/2LsZvgh
Standard (English) Size Wrench Set: amzn.to/2SSrgTp
Metric Wrench Set: amzn.to/2AfZn1c
1/4" Torque Wrench: amzn.to/33diIfW
3/8" Torque Wrench: amzn.to/2XcilOY
1/2" Torque Wrench: amzn.to/2CWLiHO
1/2" Breaker Bar: amzn.to/2Ld2ZDr
Spark Plug Socket Kit: amzn.to/2uTJqeA
Jacks and Stands
We love the quality of Esco Products and recommend them:
Esco Jack Stands: amzn.to/3cmAmiO
Esco Floor Jack: amzn.to/3fAIUoA
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🎬 Recording equipment (Affiliate Links)
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📷 Video
Canon EOS 80D Digital SLR Camera Body: amzn.to/2omC7VG'
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FYI there is radiator drain on lower passenger corner to drain coolant. Hidden and not easily visible but it is there
used it on my 14 silverado 5.3
Of course there is 🤦♂️ haha I wish I had been able to find it. That would have saved a lot of cat litter. Thanks for the tip!
I'm waiting for the comments to roll in of what was missed or wrong. Yours is a helpful one tho so I pinned it to help anyone else 👍👍
It only drains what's in your radiator. Not your engine.
Just curious… I tow my camper and I was wondering if you or anyone you know of switched out the non max trailering radiator for the larger max trailering radiator? Is it even possible?
Thank you so much for this walkthrough. After a lifter failure, I decided I wanted to do a cam and stuff. No chance I was going to do it while in the truck. If you take the heads off and manifolds completely out, it makes this much easier, especially getting to the starter and all the other stuff on the side of the block. Great work on this video, not much out there on removing these surprisingly.
This should be considered the standard for mechanical videos. Literally the most informational video ive ever watched (professional youtube mechanic so ive seen a few)
Thanks so much for that! We do our best.
Im wanting to install a BTR VVT Stage 1 cam, DOD delete, and replace the rear main seal as its starting to seep. These videos are VERY helpful in helping me plan what tools I need to buy!
Appreciate you filming all these videos on your truck, saving a lot of people a lot of time and headache!
Glad to help!
This video was very helpful and I don’t even have to take the engine (5.3) out of my 2019 Silverado. Thank you sir for the great video.
Awesome! Glad it helped you out!
This is the most comprehensive video of GM engine removal I've seen. Since your AC wasn't charged, you were about 20 minutes away from having the entire radiator support removed. The extra 20-30 minutes of work is worth it to not have to climb over and into the engine bay. Saves your back. Also you can pull the entire engine/trans assembly straight out if needed. .
Thank you! Good to know! Wanted to show how to do it without removing those parts since most diy people will do it with the front end still on the truck. That would have made it far easier for sure tho.
Is it worth doing the front end removal to pull both at the same time? Im planning to replace my trams and engine. Not sure if its easier to do separately or together?
I feel exhausted watching it! Great job!
😂😂 it was a lot of work. Thanks!
Now I’m ready to do this on my 2018 thanks for the video 👍
Awesome! More videos on the way!
I’m impressed that as much as you were using that 10 mm, you didn’t lose it.
🤣🤣 it tried to sneak away more than once
ALOT OF WORK!!! Good walkthrough for sure!
Thanks man! It was a ton of work and our longest edit so far.
“Well that sucked” haha
I might skip the engine removal part of the delete ha. Awesome vid man
Haha 😂😂 I would not blame you. I will say doing the work on the stand is really nice but it is more overall work for sure. Thanks for watch'n!
What a lot of work.
Very Helpful. Thank you!
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Im watching this video as I am weighing the considerations of replacing transmission and thinking about the remaining life of my engine. Been maintained well and hasnt produced many issues (yet) currently at 165k miles.
Small tip when you get started taking the engine apart to remove it squirt the trans dowls with PB blaster. They will come right out by the time you start to separate the trans from the engine
awesome video bro
Appreciate it!
Awesome video
Glad it was helpful!
@27:00 I was doing a rear crankshaft oil seal job and had a hard time removing those top side nuts and bolts. 😅😵
I may uave to do this soon since my transmission is slipping i am thinking it is the converter since it has started to downshift a little aggressively and in some cases the same when it upshifts if it is the converter i won't be touching it untile i can re0lace the exhuast manifolds and the exhaust pipe
The drive plate holding tool, were is it to be installed at
Got a link to repair manual or diagram you was talking about to remove l83
Great video. I am looking to take my 5.3 (l83) out of my 2016 chevy silverado z71 ltz 4x4 soon to install the 6.2 (l86) in it. It has the 8 speed transmission already am going to use it for the 6.2. I will be making a video of the process also looking to add ported heads, cam, pro charger, ect.
Nice! I'll be sure to check out the process! Tip, remove the heads before pulling the motor. Way easier to get it out
did you ever swap it?
Why would a new ac compressor not take freon after replacing expansion valve evaporator and flushing system??
I have 6 bolts that are connecting to my torque converter not 3?
27:56 is that the main battery ground strap?
i always used Copper Anti Sieze on the 2 Mating Surfaces when i put back the Engine to the Trans .- especially on the Studs
Wonder what the Book time Pays to Remove the Engine ???
The local dealer charges 22 hours for a cam swap with engine removal. I'm planning to use antisieze when I put it back 👍👍
very good
Thanks!
Is it possible to get the motor and trans out as an assembly? Leave the accessories (water pump, starter, etc) attached and remove them after the motor/trans are out?
Maybe. You dont have enough clearance to pull the motor straight out if you leave the front end peripherals on. If you took off the manifolds and rotated it 90 degrees you might be a le to leave them on. I don't thinking the trans would be able to pull out from the top. I just don't see there being enough clearance. I dropped the whole assembly out of the bottom on my camaro on the k-member. That is how it is designed to work on that car. With the 4x4 on the truck it would be much more challenging and I'm not sure if there are cross members blocking that method
Im stuck changing the heads and cam and DOD delete on a 2014 silverado. I think Ill have to remove the engine. tried completing it with the engine in and you just can line up the dots on the gears with oil pump installed. I think Ill try just lifting the engine first. do you think it would be enough room to remove the oil pan with the engine lifted some.
It can def be done if you just lift the motor a little. If it is a rear wheel drive model it is going to be a lot easier than a 4x4. If you have the equipment tho, it is going to be easier pulling the motor in my opinion but it can be done in the truck. I personally haven't done it in the truck but many people have. We have the assembly video going up in the next day or two 👍
I'm really curious to see what kind of shape your intake valves are in. How long have you been running the catch can?
They were in pretty good shape! I only had it in for 60K of the 108K. I meant to take photos before shipping the cores back but we filmed everything and I should be able to find some good shots of the intakes fingers crossed. I'm planning to check the heads in 50-100K miles (1-3 years, I drive a lot lol) since these will be brand new heads that will have a catch can on the entire time.
The only reason I watch this channel is for Cliff's beard.
😂😂🧙♂️
We know the real reason is to scope out the competition 💁♂️😋
How much difference, if any, is removal of the motor, and engine teardown/ reassembly in an 09 5.3 model?
It will probably be pretty similar but I haven't worked in that body style to know for sure
Do you have part numbers for the fuel lines ? They the same as a 2016 5.3 ?
They should be identical.I have to track down one of them but here you go:
HP Fuel Line 12677004: amzn.to/2XrsHf8
No trouble dropping that transmission pan when the exhaust flange was loosened :).??
It is definitely doable, I just wanted to do it this way for the video and making the best guide I could. Fat easier to film out of the truck and let me push the truck outside while we filmed and worked on the motor. Free'd up the garage space.
Yes man
hope it helps you out!
I’m pulling the engine on a 2020 Sierra and wondering if it would work to leave the front end together
Should be able to.
i realize the truck is an older truck but i was wondering if being a direct injection Engine do you or would you install a catch can with your air raid system to avoid issues of carbon build up on the valves and cylinder heads?
+Miguel Reynoso absolutely! We already installed a catch can in a previous video. We went with E2. It catches a lot of oil. Highly recommend for DI engines to keep it cleaner... even if it’s just a little bit cleaner
@@TheSundaeDrive Thanks for your hard work to help me out fixing my 6.2 . My battery went comoletely dead and i switched iot for a new one i bought but i had to disconnect the "Range" i had plugged in to remove some trouble codes it threw due to the dead battery . So i did with a snapon scanner then drove home (60mi away) and parked to hear that the engine sounded like a maraca . Come to find out it threw 2 push rods (bent) so i had to operate on my truck . It took me 1.5 weeks due to the dealer not having parts out here . but got it together with your help , Thanks onvce again
Glad these videos helped and you were able to save your motor! :)
Hi,very informative video.Is there any chance to remove the engine the same way if my engine is seized up(hydrolock) and I cannot rotate the engine to remove the 3 flexplate bolts?Thank you .
Only way is to try take spark plugs out and see if you can rotate if not pull trans out first with converter stuck to the flywheel
It sucks I have to rewatch this after I installed an aftermarket cam over 2 years ago I had a lifter possibly fail Friday. And hopefully nothing more worse
Hope it is nothing more serious
@@TheSundaeDrive homie do I have news for you!!!!! Lifter failed and took out a chunk from the lifter bore and ate the cam. Whole new 900 Chp build I’m doing atm
Is it necessary to remove the dampener before pulling the engine? Do you think if the rad was removed it would give enough room to pull it with the dampener still attached?
Coming straight out as we did, there is not enough room; however, if you bring it up half way and remove one exhaust manifold, you can rotate 90 degrees and get it out with the dampener on.
The Sundae Drive okay! As of now we have both exhaust manifolds out actually (friend pulled them while I wasn't there since all bolts came out nice and easy) and tomorrow we're hoping to have it pulled out as the only thing left is motor mounts and bellhousing. 👍🏻 thanks man! Love these videos been so helpful so far to make it easier on being our first time doing this
@@1999cummins4life awesome! Love hearing that they are helpful :)
Did you guys leave the trans floating on stands or did you put the crossmember back on before removing the engine
We left it floating on jacks until we got the motor loose.
@@TheSundaeDrive I'd say that's why I can't get mine separated. I haven't dropped the crossmember. Ill try again tomorrow. Thanks
@@0922jus good luck with it! Took a long time to get it separated for us too.
as a tech for gmc watching this is painful. you did so many things the hard way. but kudos for doing this with out a lift. you could of done the heads/cam with the engine in the truck.
Please reply with any Pearls of Wisdom.
There isn’t enough info out there on LT platform.
As someone who has done a lot of head gaskets, I totally agree.
The second time we pulled the engine I pulled the heads first. Way easier to remove the engine. Filming it again I would do somethings differently for sure
I was lucky enough to have a girlfriend twenty years ago that was a professional Chef on big yachts in Florida . She showed me how fun and easy is really is to be efficient and creative in the kitchen . My life has never been the same since ! Btw, she’s Still single 😄
😂😂 lol
Watt crank puller did u use and we’re did u get it
I borrowed the gm one from a gm tech friend
Any ideal what it would be to have this done?
thousands
Roughly the same steps for 2014 lv3?
I'm sure there are some differences but probably similar.
Are these steps similar to removing a 14 v6?
The general concept should be roughly the same
I have a 07 impala Ss but the 5.3 in it is mounted sideways. Think imma have a Shop do my DOD Kit This is a bit too much. KNowing me ill forget where I put the Nuts and Bolts at.
You would probably have to pull the motor on that because I don't think you would be able to get the cam out. I had no idea it was a transverse v8 mount in the SS. Is it still front wheel drive?
@@TheSundaeDrive Yes it's fwd. Every now and then My Lifter starts to tick, but goes away 5-10 min after putting a Qt of Oil in her. Shop Wants $3k to install a Tx Dod Kit in my 07 Impala Ss. So it would be bout $3500 cause I would still need to buy the Kit offline. As I said before Adding a Qt of Oil shuts them Lifters up So I'm kind of Confused about getting the Tx DOD Kit or just spend $5 every time I need a Qt of Oil when she starts Ticking...
@@cammims7645 yeah, it is a lot to spend if the oil trick is working
@@TheSundaeDrive I'm sure hoping I'm not doing more Harm. What if Adding that qt isn't enough to make the 5.3 happy
@@cammims7645 I like having the peace of mind knowing that it is removed. If you are planning to keep the car for a long time I would say to do it. Given the age (and I'm assuming mileage) it is probably a good time to replace all the gaskets and seals and change out your valve springs and pushrods (unless you have low miles) anyways. 3000 seems a little high with how easy it is (I'm assuming anyways) to pull your motor, might want to shop prices a bit but if you trust their work it is worth the extra money. Make sure it is a place that will stand by the work and warranties it.
Consider just lifting the cab or front clip instead?
Pointless. If youre putting in a new cam, more than likely you will have to pull oil pan to remove oil pump to get timing off. You can do it while its on, but its a pain. Easier to pull motor. Pulling the oil pan with the 4wd stuff is almost impossible. Almost all of it has to come out.
I'm curious are you guys going to be running 93 or 87 with this build?
Tuning it for 91 because I travel a lot and not everywhere has 93 but I plan to run 93 when possible.
@@TheSundaeDrive would it be possible to run the truck on 87?
@@xandersmith9832 only if you tune it for that but you are inhibiting the power gains of the headers and cam if you stick with 87; however, if you are only looking to delete AFM and not any power, you can definitely stick with 87. Just work with your tuner and they can help you.
Can you remove the motor and the transmission all at once
Probably - I considered it because mine was so siezed. You'll have to get creative with angles. I have not personally done it that way tho.
😎👍👍
Thanks for always helping to keep our views up 😉
There’s a lot of things that he removed that he didn’t need to, to get The motor out, I have the same motor and I didn’t have to take off 15% of what he took off 😮
MOTOR OR ENGINE?
Technically it is an engine lol
Why not just pull the Crank Pulley before the Starter?
The starter is not normally engaged so it won’t stop the motor from rotating when trying to loosen the crank pulley. It only engages when you turn the key
@@TheSundaeDrive Crank bolt should come right off with a 1/2” impact
Still not sure why you removed any of it. Should have just pulled the radiator. You drained half the fluid on the garage floor anyway.
Oh well, thanks for the video anyway
A strong enough impact can get it off absolutely. The motor needs to be pulled to delete dod because the oil pan needs to be dropped. Very challenging to drop the pan, clean off the rtv, and reseal with it in the truck.
Hell with all that you guys killed yourselves I was considering doing this after watching all that hell no lol sell the truck
Lol that is always an alternative
Rad-e-ater.... umm well ok then
The videos is 36 min long why it take me 4 days to do it?
The magic of editing! I'm with you though... takes me 1000x as long as the videos are!
Fun fact, your 5.3 DI motor is an engine. Ever replace a door window engine?
🤔🤔
Engines are mechanical, motors are electric.
why dont you just disable afm???
While disabling may help extend the life of your lifters - several people experienced the failure even after tuning it out immediately on their new trucks.
this video is RAD (iator) :)
😉🤓 haha thanks
Have to do this to my 2014 GMC, the design is disappointing.
You think its a pain to get it apart wait till you go to put it back together OMG.
Lol wasn't that bad to put back in.
r-A-diator not r-ah-diator...
Correction ENGINE
Pull the engine out of a new truck??? Are you guys crazy?? This should not have to be done. Where has the quality gone? Oh yea Quality doesn't make MONEY!! So SAD!!
Actually, you can thank the EPA for this issue. It is all done for a miniscule fuel economy improvement. That said, the majority of the vehicles won't experience this issue but it is still far too likely to happen than I am comfortable with.
too much gov’t…