Anthony Bourdain, Fergus Henderson, and Chris Cosentino, Guts & Glory Panel, 2006
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When they appeared together in this panel, Anthony Bourdain and Fergus Henderson knew each other: Bourdain ate at Henderson’s St. John in London and fell to his knees in front of the chef to sing his praises. The bone marrow became one of Bourdain’s all-time favorite dishes, as the two were both devotees of what Bourdain called “real” cooking: offal.
At the 2006 StarChefs International Chefs Congress, Bourdain, Henderson, and San Francisco’s Chris Cosentino discussed nose-to-tail cooking on the Guts & Glory panel. “I’m not sure [St. John] was actually a concept,” Henderson said. “It was just sort of the food that I enjoy. I’ve always thought it’s common sense to use all the animal. It’s polite, as well, once you knock it on the head to use it all.” Long before cooking shows made the normally unpopular cuts trendy, the three chefs delved into the best offal dishes they’d tasted, sustainability, land versus sea offal, where to buy blood in Chinatown, and Bourdain’s (alleged) experience eating illegal ortolan.
“It’s a menu led by the slaughterhouse,” Henderson said. “Let nature lead the menu rather than you trying to control nature.”