Before you go through all that trouble changing the rear main seal,check the oil pressure sensor. It's up right next to the distributor. They are plastic and they are a common cause for an oil leak one these 5.9L and 5.2L magnum engines. When they leak they tend to leak oil right down the back of the engine and it looks just like a rear main seal leaking.
Hey there! Currently in the middle of a rebuild of a 94, 5.2. she's my angel, was wondering how to check for this? Us this something I should change anyways?
My oil light also comes on & goes off. It gives the wrong reading on dipstick as in no oil in there. So everytime I drain the oil it always seems like two quarts of oil in the truck which I put 5 quarts. There is no signs of oil leakage on My Truck or in My driveway at all I change the oil pressure sensor it still do the same thing.
@@dirtyboy8336 it doesn't sound like it's your rear main if there's no leaking. The oil pump sounds like a place to start for sure. I'd definitely leave the rear main alone if you don't need to mess with it. You'll definitely know when it's time for the rear main.
@@waydebaker33 Thanks for the info. I haven't did any work on it yet. I just been taking notes and getting ready to take the oil pan off this weekend or next week with a childhood friend of mines
What I did was removed both brackets on left and right side, removed starter, took the bolts out of the flex plate shield and lastly all bolts off the oil pan. I manipulated the plate off the starter stud without much effort and pulled it away, as I walked away the pan dropped and fell to the ground without motor mounts being touched. I have the truck on a lift. 99 1500 5.9 4x4. Figured I would post let anyone else know my personal experience
Nelson’s garage. I think it’s wonderful that you help people with your videos saving them big money myself included. It takes a different kind of person to reply to all comments on your channel. Thank you. We need more good people like you!! in this world!
Thank you for posting this. Helped me do my 318 rear main and oil pan gasket. Valuable information. Wish I had a lift, but on ground took me all of 6hrs to do. Took my time. Oil pan gasket toward the rear I played heck trying to align. Got it with no leaks. Thank you again.
Man I don’t have a hoist and this seems like a lot of work but I think I’m prepared now after watching this video. I appreciate all the intricacy and details. Good job, keep up the good work
I have A 99 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L 4X4. When I do this work on my own and complete the job I will be so happy for videos like this helping me. I am not a mechanic but all of the work I have been doing to My own vehicles have been very good with no problems after. I'm from Atlanta Georgia and these mechanic shops out here been scamming me for years so I'm done with them all.
When I change my oil pump the is my main focus rear main is getting done too do I need to prime it being new over heard of petroleum jelly but I had someone say just unhook your spark plugs and crank the engine over a few times any advice
Here is an easy suggestion, submerge your new pump in oil ( in a small bucket or container) while in the oil, turn the pump drive using an Allen wrench. You can do this by hand (if you use a drill, be very slow). The idea is to get oil coming out of the top where it bolts to the main cap. If you don’t get oil coming out change the direction of they way you are turning the pump. When the pump has oil going through it you should be good to go.
I’ve got a 1998 with the 5.9 mag. Did the plenum, timing, and water pump back in June. Recently, I’ve been chasing odd oil pressure fluctuations. I’ve replaced the oil pressure sensor, oil pan gasket, oil pump, and rear main seal. Still getting abnormal readings with no oil consumption or loss. I do also have black/spent oil leaking out the bottom center notch that makes the gap between the inspection plate and bell housing. I’ll be plumbing a mechanical gauge but any thoughts as to the origin of the pressure readings and the used oil out of the bell housing?
Not sure how much i can help on this one... but think of what oil points are towards the back of the engine (which looks like you cover them) that can leak. oil sender, intake, rear main, valve covers and don't forget the transmission pump gasket and front seal (although that fluid is different it can resemble dirty oil). one thought is when you changed the rear main, was the crank shaft grooved where the seal is (this can happen and the seal will never seal)? as far as the oil pressure readings, you hit the major items with the pressure sensor and the oil pump and i am assuming the oil filter, what about the actual gauge, you will be able to tell when you put a mechanical gauge on it. i doubt its anything internal like the bearings (usually those just loose oil pressure). you have some interesting issues. keep me informed as this can always help others. and if you have any other questions, please ask.
@@Nelsons-Garage thank you so much for responding! Crank and bearing appeared to be fine. I lucked out and only had to pull the rear bearing- the rear main seal came right out. I did run the gauge cluster check (hold odometer button and cycle power on/off). Cluster came back fine with that test, and it seems to have stabilized or reduced the fluctuations. Prior, my PSI hung out around 55 at 2k rpm. Now it’s at about ~30 PSI, which is still in the acceptable range. The odd thing is: oil pressure is higher at idle. I’ll get the mechanical gauge installed later this week and do another thorough sweep for leak origin and keep you posted. Thanks again!
Hello. I've replaced the rear main seal, but had a mother of a time dropping the oil pan do too the transmission lines. I gonna jack the motor up to put the oil pan back in. Question to you, once you've lossened the motor mounts, where do you jack the engine up at. Can't figure that one out. Your help will greatly appreciated. Thanks
@@Nelsons-Garage Just another question for you, and I appreciate the reply. Does jacking it up just long enough to get the pan on in anyways affect the crankcase seal at all. Don't want to trade one problem for another.
Got a quick question please let me know I have mine ready to be done but I have the 5.9l magnum gas but my question is do you install it flush or do you clock it I keep getting different answers
That’s a good question, I have never slightly clocked the seal in all the engines I have built, and I have never had an issue. I don’t think you would go wrong either way.
The rear main is only the two halves, which is all you need to use. I haven't seen any with an additional O ring. If you got more of a gasket kit with the the rear main in it, then the O ring could be for the distributor or other component for different years.
This would be for the 5.2 or the 5.9. Yes my truck doesn’t leak at all anymore. Make sure you check the oil sending unit first, that is in the back and can resemble a rear main leak. It’s unlikely but I have seen rear intake gaskets leak also.
This is for the engine, for the transmission you would need to unbolt the transmission from the engine and pull the torque converter, and the seal is right there.
Hi thanks for the video and making this simple. I do have one question? Will this work for a 2001 ram 1500 support 5.2 l gas? You make it look so easy.
Do i need to remove flex plate screws? I’m all the way to the oil pump and it was easy but I’m not recognizing the next step? The main seal cover is next?
@@nickpedigo2634 remove the oil pump with two bolts. Then the rear main cap bolts that the oil pump bolted to. Slightly tap the main cap lightly while holding the cap and it will drop into your hand.
Thank you so much man I did all of that and it all worked but then I’m still not sure what to do with this rubber O-ring lol does my fuel pump require an O-ring?
how can you raise the engine without loosening ALL engine mounts and even then you are attempting to lift the transmission also - you did not address this - what comments do you have?
You only have to loosen one bolt on each side of the engine to lift the engine up. and i did not loosen anything on the transmission to do this. after the two bolts are loose for the engine mounts there is plenty of room to lift the engine up enough to get the oil pan out. The transmission has plenty of room to lift up while attached to the engine. I showed the bolts that need to be loosened in the video. hope that helps
Before you go through all that trouble changing the rear main seal,check the oil pressure sensor. It's up right next to the distributor. They are plastic and they are a common cause for an oil leak one these 5.9L and 5.2L magnum engines. When they leak they tend to leak oil right down the back of the engine and it looks just like a rear main seal leaking.
Hey there! Currently in the middle of a rebuild of a 94, 5.2. she's my angel, was wondering how to check for this? Us this something I should change anyways?
My oil light also comes on & goes off. It gives the wrong reading on dipstick as in no oil in there. So everytime I drain the oil it always seems like two quarts of oil in the truck which I put 5 quarts. There is no signs of oil leakage on My Truck or in My driveway at all I change the oil pressure sensor it still do the same thing.
So I've be changing my rear main if that's the case and my oil pump as well since I already bought the parts
@@dirtyboy8336 it doesn't sound like it's your rear main if there's no leaking. The oil pump sounds like a place to start for sure. I'd definitely leave the rear main alone if you don't need to mess with it. You'll definitely know when it's time for the rear main.
@@waydebaker33 Thanks for the info. I haven't did any work on it yet. I just been taking notes and getting ready to take the oil pan off this weekend or next week with a childhood friend of mines
What I did was removed both brackets on left and right side, removed starter, took the bolts out of the flex plate shield and lastly all bolts off the oil pan. I manipulated the plate off the starter stud without much effort and pulled it away, as I walked away the pan dropped and fell to the ground without motor mounts being touched. I have the truck on a lift. 99 1500 5.9 4x4. Figured I would post let anyone else know my personal experience
Nelson’s garage. I think it’s wonderful that you help people with your videos saving them big money myself included. It takes a different kind of person to reply to all comments on your channel. Thank you. We need more good people like you!! in this world!
Thank you for posting this. Helped me do my 318 rear main and oil pan gasket. Valuable information. Wish I had a lift, but on ground took me all of 6hrs to do. Took my time. Oil pan gasket toward the rear I played heck trying to align. Got it with no leaks. Thank you again.
Great to hear it helped.
Awesome Video. Will start mine once it warms up.
Man I don’t have a hoist and this seems like a lot of work but I think I’m prepared now after watching this video. I appreciate all the intricacy and details. Good job, keep up the good work
It’s not hard on these, cuz you don’t got to remove the transmission.
Thanks a bunch for making this vijayo. You are so chill and smart.
Thank you. I need to do this, and your vid was very clear, and well done!
You can also jack up the frame close to the wheel well as possible to “drop” the front axle. It’s what I did, and it worked.
I have A 99 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L 4X4. When I do this work on my own and complete the job I will be so happy for videos like this helping me. I am not a mechanic but all of the work I have been doing to My own vehicles have been very good with no problems after. I'm from Atlanta Georgia and these mechanic shops out here been scamming me for years so I'm done with them all.
if you know how to turn a wrench you are a mechanic! don't fall for the no true scotsman fallacy!
I hear you brother keep those ratchets greased and keep your hopes high!
shops been scamming me too up in virginia, I do my own work now
Thanks for the video and making note of each step
Just want to say you have the best method 4 removal of the oil pan
Very good video bro thanks thanks again
Muchísimas gracias 👍
Do I have to drop my transmission in my 1998 Dodge Dakota 5.2 L V8 or do it the same way you are and do I need to clock the rear main cell
Nice job! 3-4 hours? Makes a difference when you dont need it for work the next day
Liked and subscribed
When I change my oil pump the is my main focus rear main is getting done too do I need to prime it being new over heard of petroleum jelly but I had someone say just unhook your spark plugs and crank the engine over a few times any advice
Here is an easy suggestion, submerge your new pump in oil ( in a small bucket or container) while in the oil, turn the pump drive using an Allen wrench. You can do this by hand (if you use a drill, be very slow). The idea is to get oil coming out of the top where it bolts to the main cap. If you don’t get oil coming out change the direction of they way you are turning the pump. When the pump has oil going through it you should be good to go.
I’ve got a 1998 with the 5.9 mag. Did the plenum, timing, and water pump back in June. Recently, I’ve been chasing odd oil pressure fluctuations. I’ve replaced the oil pressure sensor, oil pan gasket, oil pump, and rear main seal. Still getting abnormal readings with no oil consumption or loss. I do also have black/spent oil leaking out the bottom center notch that makes the gap between the inspection plate and bell housing. I’ll be plumbing a mechanical gauge but any thoughts as to the origin of the pressure readings and the used oil out of the bell housing?
Not sure how much i can help on this one... but think of what oil points are towards the back of the engine (which looks like you cover them) that can leak. oil sender, intake, rear main, valve covers and don't forget the transmission pump gasket and front seal (although that fluid is different it can resemble dirty oil). one thought is when you changed the rear main, was the crank shaft grooved where the seal is (this can happen and the seal will never seal)? as far as the oil pressure readings, you hit the major items with the pressure sensor and the oil pump and i am assuming the oil filter, what about the actual gauge, you will be able to tell when you put a mechanical gauge on it. i doubt its anything internal like the bearings (usually those just loose oil pressure). you have some interesting issues. keep me informed as this can always help others. and if you have any other questions, please ask.
@@Nelsons-Garage thank you so much for responding! Crank and bearing appeared to be fine. I lucked out and only had to pull the rear bearing- the rear main seal came right out. I did run the gauge cluster check (hold odometer button and cycle power on/off). Cluster came back fine with that test, and it seems to have stabilized or reduced the fluctuations. Prior, my PSI hung out around 55 at 2k rpm. Now it’s at about ~30 PSI, which is still in the acceptable range. The odd thing is: oil pressure is higher at idle. I’ll get the mechanical gauge installed later this week and do another thorough sweep for leak origin and keep you posted. Thanks again!
Would you have to jack it up on a 4x4 like i I have
Great help but I only wish you had a bright shop Light sometime I make out what the flash light was on
Hello. I've replaced the rear main seal, but had a mother of a time dropping the oil pan do too the transmission lines. I gonna jack the motor up to put the oil pan back in. Question to you, once you've lossened the motor mounts, where do you jack the engine up at. Can't figure that one out. Your help will greatly appreciated. Thanks
I jacked the motor up on the harmonic balancer, use a block of wood and be easy on it and you won’t have a problem.
@@Nelsons-Garage OK. Thank you...
@@Nelsons-Garage Just another question for you, and I appreciate the reply. Does jacking it up just long enough to get the pan on in anyways affect the crankcase seal at all. Don't want to trade one problem for another.
@@craigsevyn no, just be nice to it and you won’t have any issues
😮 I didn’t know that truck has a two-piece real main seal like that…
I have a 1998 dodge Dakota 5.2 L V8 is the rear main sale going to be the same or do I have to remove the transmission
Nah
Would this be the same procedure for a 318 cu in. ?
Yes
$627.00 is what I quoted yesterday
Think I'll do it myself.
How dis you Jack the front of the engine up what did you Jack against
In my case I used a hoist screw jack, and I lifted carefully on the harmonica balancer.
Got a quick question please let me know I have mine ready to be done but I have the 5.9l magnum gas but my question is do you install it flush or do you clock it I keep getting different answers
That’s a good question, I have never slightly clocked the seal in all the engines I have built, and I have never had an issue. I don’t think you would go wrong either way.
Where does that rubber ring that comes with the seal go?
The rear main is only the two halves, which is all you need to use. I haven't seen any with an additional O ring. If you got more of a gasket kit with the the rear main in it, then the O ring could be for the distributor or other component for different years.
Is this for the 5.2? Did this stop your oil leak?
This would be for the 5.2 or the 5.9. Yes my truck doesn’t leak at all anymore. Make sure you check the oil sending unit first, that is in the back and can resemble a rear main leak. It’s unlikely but I have seen rear intake gaskets leak also.
@@Nelsons-Garage thanks for the help. Much appreciated
Why not change the oil pump while your down there?
Would have been a good time to do it, but it always has good oil pressure. No need to change if it works good.
Is this for the Is this the transmission mine is Leaking the same spot but transmission flood
This is for the engine, for the transmission you would need to unbolt the transmission from the engine and pull the torque converter, and the seal is right there.
@Nelson's Garage thank you. You wouldn't have a video on that woukd you im sure it's simple just wanted to see
@@jasonlaclair1587 I don’t have an actual video of that process, however I can put a quick video together explaining what you need to do.
@@Nelsons-Garage yesss please do!!!
@@Nelsons-Garage I would also be interested
Hi thanks for the video and making this simple. I do have one question? Will this work for a 2001 ram 1500 support 5.2 l gas? You make it look so easy.
I believe it will.
Do i need to remove flex plate screws? I’m all the way to the oil pump and it was easy but I’m not recognizing the next step? The main seal cover is next?
@@nickpedigo2634 no need to remove the flex plate screws.
@@nickpedigo2634 remove the oil pump with two bolts. Then the rear main cap bolts that the oil pump bolted to. Slightly tap the main cap lightly while holding the cap and it will drop into your hand.
Thank you so much man I did all of that and it all worked but then I’m still not sure what to do with this rubber O-ring lol does my fuel pump require an O-ring?
Is the 3.9 v6 same ?
It should be similar
@@Nelsons-Garage i hope.
Hi,Can you do same job on my truck? What city and state you live in?
😁 I don’t work on other peoples cars anymore.
how can you raise the engine without loosening ALL engine mounts and even then you are attempting to lift the transmission also - you did not address this - what comments do you have?
You only have to loosen one bolt on each side of the engine to lift the engine up. and i did not loosen anything on the transmission to do this. after the two bolts are loose for the engine mounts there is plenty of room to lift the engine up enough to get the oil pan out. The transmission has plenty of room to lift up while attached to the engine. I showed the bolts that need to be loosened in the video. hope that helps
Wow!! , get a tripod willya, they're not that expensive.
TLk.too much too slow for me
I have a 1998 dodge Dakota 5.2 L V8 is the rear main sale going to be the same or do I have to remove the transmission
Rear main seal should be the same. Not sure if anything else would have to be removed, but I doubt the transmission would have to come out.