Mercury 950 - 1000 - 1150 -1250 Inline 6 Lower Unit Removal Notes, & Reverse Locking Cam Alignment
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2020
- 1960's Thru 1980's era Mercury Outboards have a similar setup for the gear shift to lower unit setup. The inline six's or "tower of power" version are the ones I have worked on the most. There is a "nuance" on those that isn't well covered on CZcams and that is how to "sync" up the gear shift splined shaft and the reverse locking cam that releases the motor's "leg" to allow it to be rotated up. That is the essence of this video.
great video, very helpful thank you brother happy boating!
TY for an informative video. FYI! You can also use a 9mm wrench to get your shift shaft splines to line up properly! I have a 1983 Mercury 115hp L6 Tower of Power on my bass/ski boat and there is nothing like the sound of those inline 2 stroke outboard engines. 😉
Hoping to hear more of that 6 before this season is out ;)
Currently trying to put the foot of our 1969 (or so we think, not exactly sure on the year model) inline 6 95HP Tower of Power back on and we can not get it to close the gap. Kept thinking it was an issue with the copper tube that supplies water to cool, but now I'm thinking it's that latch you are referring too. Fingers crossed, hope it works tomorrow.
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Well i got it figured out from another vid using a wrench to put in put the shifter in neutral then it will allow it to line up to got my seals fixed up i love this motor theres no box unit just 2 coils and a rectifier a disb and a merc switch
So i took my 1962 950 v6 bottom half off for seals i took it off in neutral so what you're saying is I should have took it off in gear and reverse? Because now the bottom half acts like it's in gear even though I put it in neutral
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Thanks for the info, I have a 1978 900. it had a bad lower unit that was off, I bought a second parts motor and fought for an hour this morning trying to line things up, I am missing the alignment bushing from both motors, I used my finger holding the lower up with my knee while sitting on a chair. Mine doesn't have the cam or pin but in neutral the gear slider needs to be about 1.5 inches from the back of the gear shift slot to work properly. I had the slider in the middle but that won't work.
I just bought a '78 L6 900, replaced the water pump, pressure tested the lower unit because the drained gear oil volume was low. Found that the leak is around the shift shaft. What is the best/easiest way to get those seals up off the shaft without pulling out the shaft and having to open up the gear box through the prop shaft?
Don't have an answer ...Good question, I've always tore things apart to prop shaft seals and all. This summer when I roll back around to those maybe I'll see if I can tactically pull them, maybe with some of my chainsaw seal related tools. They are small as well.
I found that the shift shaft bushing now comes with the seal installed as a single unit. It is threaded into the lower unit around the shift shaft. There is a special tool that looks like a socket which slides over the shaft and down into the two grooves of the bushing for quick, easy removal and installation. I bought one online for $13.
Yea buddy it's a runner