A DIY attenuator for +/-5v input oscilloscopes to perform primary ignition work. DOWNLOAD WAVEFORM HERE: github.com/the... GADGETS ARE SHARED WITH VIEWERS FOR THEIR PERSONAL NON COMMERCIAL USE
Nice Dennis. Came back to this one because I need to build a 2 to1 for my NI DAQ to work with the scaling in the ATS software. That app nailed it . Thanks again.
Enjoy all your work and learn with your easygoing Lessens. Do you know Where is gadgets #28 you mention in this upload is? Some other videos seem to be missing also. Please don't delete your older stuff! Could be I have a problem looking for your work? Thanks!!
#28 was made obsolete by the improved 4x attenuator in #103 in which I describe why the update other deleted videos dealt with cheap PSI pressure sensors that did not perform in absolute pressure needs...the market changes over time and much better solutions became available...I did not want viewers watching that old stuff misled into the outdated approach deleting those videos was not a decision I took lightly...the housekeeping took place a few months ago and looking back was the right choice
+stephen marshall - thanks, Stephen:) To me it's so obvious and makes one wonder why the manufacturers haven't offered these two attenuator values... 4:1 ... 60:1 They make so much sense...
x60 is the sweet spot - for us europeans with 230V all over the place, I mean the capability to cover that range. The loto is about 0,1 - 5V so going for the x60 attentuator you cover the AC from 6 - 300V which is - as you said before - enough headroom for the 230V users in the world. I will try to built one for sure simply to replace my bigger x100 I had purchased from Ali for 10€ incl. shipping which feels really solid, but pushes the range from 10V - 500V which also leads to 100 times bigger noise due to the 100x factor. 60 meets the requirement far better cause I do not have use cases above the 230V +/- the usual %. Might be even better to get a x50 cause my highest spike was aboiut 241V on a crappy hantek 6022 BL were the owon vds1022i was about 236V and loto 482 was at 235V. But I will start with this one and order the parts next week.
60x attenuator is intended for automotive primary ignition scoping induction spikes...NOT for electrical mains work! need an isolator to do that with USB oscilloscopes! you've been binge watching the channel:) with the interest you've shown, you might be interested in our HScope TELEGRAM Group where such topics are discussed and help in any build is available I extend an invitation: t.me/hscope Denis
if they're 5% resistors and stray from 1MΩ and 18KΩ then the voltage divider would also stray from 60:1 sometimes measuring a bunch of cheap resistors to find ones closest to value can help it actually doesn't matter too much on the 60:1 which will likely only be used for primary ignition waveforms
@the GADGETS playlist the 1M resistors were 5% but the one I picked was 1.002M the 18k were 1% but the closest I had was 18.14k, not sure of the math involved lol
@@tombeam sound like close enough resistor values as to the "math" these are simple voltage divider circuits...there are online calculators and apps for this if you're interested
If I could build half the things u do I would b ecstatic. As I have mentioned, I have two scopes. I hardly ever use them. I want to do more. But time is limited. I really enjoy, and learn from listening to your builds. Does you tube allow private communication on lap top. It doesn't seem to work on tablet and phone. Replacing one dead fuel injector and rear main seal on an 08 CX7. Built to discourage working on the vehicle.
+Bill Rimmer - CZcams is pretty much limited to comments as we're doing here. There is an app (Windows, Android, iPhone) called TELEGRAM that allows voice, file sharing, etc...and within it a HSCOPE group administered by Martin Loren. I belong to that. If you think your interest runs deep enough and have the time, then by all means join us, Bill.
Might be worth to pin the GADGETS#xx video number regarding what is the attenuator master built to follow, I mean the part you need to know that comes before 4:42 in this video cause you had evolved that built method over time and improved for example from shrink tube to cardboard and other techniques. I watched almost all of them in the last 2 day since I got into your channel, but even I can not remember the last one that was the reference but my guess is the x4 attenuator that covers the full automotive range incl. spikes and head room for the loto from 0,4V to 20V - at least in the pre 42V car era, which becomes more common nowadays at the end of ICE cause AUDI has announced to get out of it before 2028 and is transitioning all their plants to EV as VW and its other 8 brands from Seat over Skoda to even Porsche, Lambo and Bugatti.
and there were even more advancements on attenuators after this video...work builds upon work...I don't always get the progress linked...but I do try...
this vehicle has a 2 wire COP ignition coil where the ECM completes the ground... so, we backprobe that ground wire on the COP with acupuncture style needle probe to BNC...a large induction spike results which is why we need an attenuator...
Thanks Dennis that was very informative. I bought the Hantek 6022BE but I'm a complete noob to scopes. I tried to see the Can-bus signal on my perfectly working car but I could not get a result that made sense. I'll have another go when the weather improves. Two questions: Why would you need an AC adapter? I thought that a scope can measure plus and minus voltages. On the probes there's a x1 and x10 switch. What's that for?
+rysacroft - the concepts of oscilloscope work are not really all that difficult, but as in most things it will take time and effort. You are thinking of the "AC" in the wrong way. It is AC COUPLING which removes the DC component from a signal and leaves the AC wave that was riding over it. Read the manual, experiment, and keep watching The GADGETS Playlist:-)
@@theGADGETSplaylist, thanks for that. Unfortunately I don't have a garage and it's 3°C outside with a wind speed of 40mph. Not much chance of experimenting for a while :(
@@rysacroft - a balmy 3C ! It's -25C here this morning. I don't heat the garage (usually) in these temperatures. It doesn't mean you can't play with the scope, indoors. A small signal generator helps. Learning some of the basics first and becoming comfortable with the scope before attempting automotive work might be a good thing... Good luck with it and I'm confident with a bit of work, you'll get there:-)
@@theGADGETSplaylist I do have some Raspberry Pis lying around so in theory I could use one as a Can-bus simulator. See here: github.com/carloop/simulator-program Don't trust me on this one because it's just from an internet search, I've never tried it. What I can recommend is PI-hole on a RPi. Once configured and plugged into you router no device on your network will see adverts. I still get amazed when people say that there are adverts on CZcams. LOL Link: pi-hole.net/
@@vonhat7396 I am sorry Vo...I am not understanding your question... Vietnamese, I think? You can ask question in your language and I will try translate... No promises it will work, but we can try:)
@@theGADGETSplaylist cảm ơn, tôi đã dùng thiết bị hantek 6022BE để đo kim phun nhưng chỉ nhận được dạng sóng hình vuông và nó không như tín hiệu mẫu tham khảo.
Nice Dennis. Came back to this one because I need to build a 2 to1 for my NI DAQ to work with the scaling in the ATS software. That app nailed it . Thanks again.
cool!
Enjoy all your work and learn with your easygoing Lessens. Do you know Where is gadgets #28 you mention in this upload is? Some other videos seem to be missing also. Please don't delete your older stuff! Could be I have a problem looking for your work? Thanks!!
#28 was made obsolete by the improved 4x attenuator in #103 in which I describe why the update
other deleted videos dealt with cheap PSI pressure sensors that did not perform in absolute pressure needs...the market changes over time and much better solutions became available...I did not want viewers watching that old stuff misled into the outdated approach
deleting those videos was not a decision I took lightly...the housekeeping took place a few months ago and looking back was the right choice
Just brilliant Dennis. Very clever
+stephen marshall - thanks, Stephen:)
To me it's so obvious and makes one wonder why the manufacturers haven't offered these two attenuator values... 4:1 ... 60:1
They make so much sense...
@@theGADGETSplaylist I think I will make my own, and your are right! Why not just make these or build them into the channels themselves
Nice Denis...Thx for taking the time. Hope your fire wood is holding out. Cheers
+TheGibby3340 - they said -20C and 50 KPH wind...took their word for it, Ian and never set foot outside today😮
x60 is the sweet spot - for us europeans with 230V all over the place, I mean the capability to cover that range.
The loto is about 0,1 - 5V so going for the x60 attentuator you cover the AC from 6 - 300V which is - as you said before - enough headroom for the 230V users in the world.
I will try to built one for sure simply to replace my bigger x100 I had purchased from Ali for 10€ incl. shipping which feels really solid, but pushes the range from 10V - 500V which also leads to 100 times bigger noise due to the 100x factor.
60 meets the requirement far better cause I do not have use cases above the 230V +/- the usual %.
Might be even better to get a x50 cause my highest spike was aboiut 241V on a crappy hantek 6022 BL were the owon vds1022i was about 236V and loto 482 was at 235V. But I will start with this one and order the parts next week.
60x attenuator is intended for automotive primary ignition scoping induction spikes...NOT for electrical mains work!
need an isolator to do that with USB oscilloscopes!
you've been binge watching the channel:)
with the interest you've shown, you might be interested in our HScope TELEGRAM Group where such topics are discussed and help in any build is available
I extend an invitation:
t.me/hscope
Denis
Hmm, not sure if it's the resistors I got, but using your info I have a 73.8 to 1 attenuator hahaha.
if they're 5% resistors and stray from 1MΩ and 18KΩ then the voltage divider would also stray from 60:1
sometimes measuring a bunch of cheap resistors to find ones closest to value can help
it actually doesn't matter too much on the 60:1 which will likely only be used for primary ignition waveforms
@the GADGETS playlist the 1M resistors were 5% but the one I picked was 1.002M the 18k were 1% but the closest I had was 18.14k, not sure of the math involved lol
@@tombeam sound like close enough resistor values
as to the "math" these are simple voltage divider circuits...there are online calculators and apps for this if you're interested
@the GADGETS playlist thanks. Dennis wasn't it?
@@tombeam you're welcome Tom
Denis
Like...
I like.
Very good my friend.
Thank You sir. You are the man 🔝🔝🔝🔝☺
+Aldi Shuli - thanks, buddy!
In the future could you make a video for a 60:1 attenuator for the HS101 scope series? I guess that depends on the voltage range of the build.
+rs1971camaro - no need...
There's a 20:1 for those on the channel already which provides +/-300v on the HS10x +/-15v inputs.
If I could build half the things u do I would b ecstatic. As I have mentioned, I have two scopes. I hardly ever use them. I want to do more. But time is limited. I really enjoy, and learn from listening to your builds. Does you tube allow private communication on lap top. It doesn't seem to work on tablet and phone. Replacing one dead fuel injector and rear main seal on an 08 CX7. Built to discourage working on the vehicle.
+Bill Rimmer - CZcams is pretty much limited to comments as we're doing here.
There is an app (Windows, Android, iPhone) called TELEGRAM that allows voice, file sharing, etc...and within it a HSCOPE group administered by Martin Loren.
I belong to that. If you think your interest runs deep enough and have the time, then by all means join us, Bill.
Well done!
+Martin R&D - thanks for approving this (and the other) probes to be added to the HScope database.
Might be worth to pin the GADGETS#xx video number regarding what is the attenuator master built to follow, I mean the part you need to know that comes before 4:42 in this video cause you had evolved that built method over time and improved for example from shrink tube to cardboard and other techniques.
I watched almost all of them in the last 2 day since I got into your channel, but even I can not remember the last one that was the reference but my guess is the x4 attenuator that covers the full automotive range incl. spikes and head room for the loto from 0,4V to 20V - at least in the pre 42V car era, which becomes more common nowadays at the end of ICE cause AUDI has announced to get out of it before 2028 and is transitioning all their plants to EV as VW and its other 8 brands from Seat over Skoda to even Porsche, Lambo and Bugatti.
and there were even more advancements on attenuators after this video...work builds upon work...I don't always get the progress linked...but I do try...
Very good, you are the man. Which app did you use to calculate the resistors?
ElectroDroid in this video
@@theGADGETSplaylist Many thx
How to get primary igntion?
this vehicle has a 2 wire COP ignition coil where the ECM completes the ground...
so, we backprobe that ground wire on the COP with acupuncture style needle probe to BNC...a large induction spike results which is why we need an attenuator...
Hi Dennis!
Could you use a 4:1 and a 20:1 attenuator in series to get 80:1 attenuation?
+Conservator - not sure, Eduard...I don't like the daisy chain idea and I think 80:1 (if indeed that would be the result) might be a bit much.
Denis
nice work
Thanks, Dan!
Thanks Dennis that was very informative. I bought the Hantek 6022BE but I'm a complete noob to scopes. I tried to see the Can-bus signal on my perfectly working car but I could not get a result that made sense. I'll have another go when the weather improves. Two questions:
Why would you need an AC adapter? I thought that a scope can measure plus and minus voltages.
On the probes there's a x1 and x10 switch. What's that for?
+rysacroft - the concepts of oscilloscope work are not really all that difficult, but as in most things it will take time and effort.
You are thinking of the "AC" in the wrong way. It is AC COUPLING which removes the DC component from a signal and leaves the AC wave that was riding over it.
Read the manual, experiment, and keep watching The GADGETS Playlist:-)
@@theGADGETSplaylist, thanks for that. Unfortunately I don't have a garage and it's 3°C outside with a wind speed of 40mph. Not much chance of experimenting for a while :(
@@rysacroft - a balmy 3C !
It's -25C here this morning. I don't heat the garage (usually) in these temperatures.
It doesn't mean you can't play with the scope, indoors. A small signal generator helps.
Learning some of the basics first and becoming comfortable with the scope before attempting automotive work might be a good thing...
Good luck with it and I'm confident with a bit of work, you'll get there:-)
@@theGADGETSplaylist I do have some Raspberry Pis lying around so in theory I could use one as a Can-bus simulator. See here:
github.com/carloop/simulator-program
Don't trust me on this one because it's just from an internet search, I've never tried it.
What I can recommend is PI-hole on a RPi. Once configured and plugged into you router no device on your network will see adverts. I still get amazed when people say that there are adverts on CZcams. LOL
Link:
pi-hole.net/
Is this hantek6022be?
Yes, the oscilloscope held in my hands in the first minute of the video is a HANTEK 6022BE.
Later, I am holding a LOTO OSC482
@@theGADGETSplaylist i don't used LOTO OSC 842 and waveform recieved is a square waveform. right or wrong?
@@vonhat7396 I am sorry Vo...I am not understanding your question...
Vietnamese, I think?
You can ask question in your language and I will try translate...
No promises it will work, but we can try:)
@@theGADGETSplaylist cảm ơn, tôi đã dùng thiết bị hantek 6022BE để đo kim phun nhưng chỉ nhận được dạng sóng hình vuông và nó không như tín hiệu mẫu tham khảo.
@@vonhat7396
bạn đã sử dụng bộ suy giảm 20: 1 chưa