How to Install Electric Exhaust Cutouts on Your Car from Spelab

How to install electric exhaust cutouts. For this, I’m using my friend’s 1971 Buick Skylark. Keep in mind, that this is for off-road use on. Exhaust cutouts are used to by-pass the mufflers to increase the sound of your exhaust and potentially increase performance. #spelab #customexhaust #performance
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-welding machine
-reciprocating saw
-angle grinder
-clamps
-angle iron
-heat shrink
-cable ties
Procedure:
Before we try the fitment on the car, it’s best to put this together first so we know the exact size we’re working with. Install the butterfly in the best orientation for your application. Install this along with the flange for the turn-down pipes. The turn-down pipes are fully adjustable with the band clamps.
We already figured out where the best mounting location is, this will be before the mufflers and it’s best to pick a straight section of pipe. To keep them hidden, these will be positioned in the center of the car and this will also prevent any clearance issues with the aftermarket chassis bracing. It can be positioned both on the bottom and side of the pipe to determine the fitment before fully committing to cutting the exhaust.
The marks were made with a marker, you can run tape around the pipe or a gear clamp to help keep that line square on the pipe.
I’m using a reciprocating saw with a metal blade to cut the pipe. Be mindful of where the blade is pointing so you don’t damage anything on the opposite side. Try to keep the cut as straight as possible, it’s better to make the opening too small rather than too big. We can always follow up with a grinder after to touch up the cuts.
A quick test fit. Everything seems to line up quite well.
The prep before welding, the pipes are cleaned up with sandpaper to remove any coatings or rust. A wire wheel on a drill or dye grinder can also be used. Even abrasive pads on an angle grinder.
Once clean, the y pipe will need to be clamped in place. In order to keep the exhaust section straight, an angle iron is used. This will help cradle and center the pipe.
Once in place, the front section is tack-welded into place.
We found a slight interference with the back cut so that was touched up with an angle grinder. Next, this section was clamped into place with the angle iron. Then it was also tacked to hold everything together.
The tacks will prevent the exhaust pipe from moving, the clamps were then removed.
The pipe can now be fully welded. My friend is doing all the tig welding here, unfortunately I can’t take credit for this. Tig is used instead of mig as it provides a cleaner weld, is softer so there’s less chance of cracking when it’s a butt weld, and still maintains a strong joint. It does however take a little more time than compared to mig welding.
Do the same of the opposite side.
Now is bolting up the butterfly flaps. Each of the bolts has a flat washer and lock washer installed. As an added step, I added some medium thread locker. Make sure the supplied gaskets are installed before and after the butterfly assembly.
After it’s tight, install the band clamp and turn down the pipe.
Do the same on the opposite side.
Now for the wiring. These have a plug-in connection that will be under the car. As an added step, adhesive-filled heat shrink was added over the connection. This will seal up the connection and prevent it from coming apart. We found some wire retaining loops so they were added to a bolt on the floor to keep the wires in place and away from the driveshaft.
The wires of the motor were also cable tied back, again keeping it away from the driveshaft. We found a hole just above the tailstock of the transmission, so this is where the control wire was fed through into the cabin.
There isn’t a center console, but instead just a shifter box, the wire comes under. We have a momentary rocker switch, this does not need to be held but instead pushed in one direction or the other and the flaps will fully open or close. The power source from this kit used the cigarette or 12v output port.
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[@andrewlawson3694]

Excellent as always, great sound !

[@spelabofficial]

Thank you for the video!😍

[@DrTopLiftDPT]

These are so cool

[@adamwilliams5426]

I wouldn't recommend tig welding an exhaust while its on the car. It's a really hateful process especially if you don't have a lift.