Here's a SHORT VIDEO about my Amazing Whizbang Chisel Sharpening Jig
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- In this video I condense my 24-minute Whizbang chisel sharpening tutorial into 3 minutes of fast-paced detail. If you would like to watch the 24-minute tutorial (and you should once you see how truly amazing this idea is), here's the link: • My Whizbang Belt-Sande...
To purchase the pdf specifications package for making your own sharpening jig, or to purchase an already-made sharpening jig, click this link: cabinetrefacing...
If you think this is a great idea that should be brought to the marketplace on a larger scale, please contact the FastCap Company and tell them that: www.fastcap.com/ . I would love to see FastCap take this idea and run with it.
Thank you.
I always use a bit of metal polish when stropping my chisel, it works a treat.
Sweet and to the point! I love it. Thanks!
Thank you for your edit from your original tutorial. Anyhow there is a lot of merit to this technique but in general as with all power sharpening there is a lot more heat introduced into the steel causing temper loss all be it on a very micro level right out there where you need it on the edge. You don't see it or feel it but it is best to dip it....frequently in water to "cowboy temper" your edge.
I have used a very similar set up over the years with that same belt sander. I dedicated it even more by putting the spacers on the sander bed and not the jig. You can tap oak(hard woods) for machine threads as well if you don't have some inserts handy. Most times 1/4 20 screws will self tap into a #7 hole(just a little larger than 3/16").
Yes, the hone is so important
people are always impatient , but your shortened version also give a 'birds eye view' of the jig and what possible with it .
... the easyest solutions are often the hardest to find. Thx alot, happy new year ... and stay healthy. Regards from Germany
Great idea! I was actually just about to pay for a jig for sharpening. Now I think I'll just cut a piece of wood 25 degrees or whatever my chisels are, then my glassplate with sandpapers and finally leather. Thank you very much
Both videos are GREAT. Shoot for 6 minutes. A lot is missing from this one. Try a script or outline.
Thanks for shortening this, much prefer short videos. Good system :) Starts @0:45
Thank you.
Watched both. More to like in the short version. Great jig.
Great idea. But I’m more impressed by your definition of “ strop”. Never really understood the necessity for it. Now it makes sense! Thank you.
lovwely vid . many thanks Giannis
For those that haven't seen the original, it's well worth the viewing time.
Herrick, just to let you know, I like your longer version much better. More detail is always better.....at least for me. Need to ask though......cutting the sanding belt to 1 1/2" wide, what's the easiest way to cut this since the belt is a circle. Was thinking mounting it on the sander and just scoring it with a utility knife. Would love to know a better method for this......thanks
I lay the belt on a table, place the 1.5" blade of my framing square along one edge, and cut the belt to width with a utility knife. 👍
Good jig. Be careful to have water nearby to cool the edge. It will get hot doing this.
Excellent video, time does matter.
NO man. This short must be an intro for lull tutorial and who don't want to watch entire tutorial can stop watching after intro knowing WTF you showed.
Doesn't the heat draw the temper?
Hello, my laborer (when I wasn’t looking) used one of my chisels as a screwdriver (?) or cold chisel (?) and totally messed up the cutting edge. It looks like a beaver was chewing on it.
Do you have a video available for fixing the damage?
By the way, my brother suggested your channel - he found your interior wall toe-screwing video extremely helpful. Thank you in advance. Daniel
That kind of damage is not unusual with a chisel that's used on a job site (as opposed to one used in a cabinet shop). The only way to fix your chisel is to grind it down past the damage. You can do it with the technique shown here, and also shown in the longer how-to version of this idea. Tell your brother I said thanks. 👍
Where would I find the pdf for the jig I tried cutting at 22 degrees but didn’t look right!
The only question I have is, do you cut a standard sanding belt or did you find a new on that width?
That block of wood is cut at 25°?
Herrick -can you turn your mind to a drawing sharpener like this?
I see that you don't put a secondary bevel on your chisels: I know that it would mean using another jig with a different angle, but would that not make the blade last longer between sharpening sessions? Also, your original jig had a shallow slot cut into it, which I think is a good idea, as clamping the chisel against one edge would ensure that the finished edge would be at right-angles. Finally; I was led to believe that the abrasive had to be moving towards the blade edge, which would produce a finer 'wire edge' rather than moving away from it: what are the advantages of doing it your way?
Hi John,
Putting a secondary bevel on the chisel does not require another jig. It can be easily done by jacking up the back of the same jig. Use masking tape to hold a penny or nickel to each ski, and you'll have a secondary bevel. I've put a secondary bevel on after grinding, and before honing, by using the jig with a 1.5" strip of fine-grit wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of plate glass. But for a tradesman (carpenter, electrician, roofer, etc.) to go to such trouble is overkill. Having taken the time to do it, I determined that it was not worth the added effort. But, the secondary bevel is a desirable (though not necessary) thing with a woodworking chisel.
The slot for alignment purposes is a jig modification that I also determined was unnecessary for a tradesman's chisel. With a little practice, it's surprisingly easy to get an accurate right angle grind by eye.
I recommend that the sanding belt run from the back of the jig to the front because it is safer. I had a student in the local high school building trades program reverse the direction with disastrous results. The tip of the chisel snagged the belt flew out of his hands.
Thanks for the great observations and questions.
My chisels have been sharpened a lot and are shorter than new, what is the minimum length your sharpener can be used with?
Oh strapping, that’s what I meant when I typed hone
What degree angle are you sharpening?
How can I buy your whizbang chisel jig
I stopped making the jigs awhile back. I burned out trying to keep up with orders. I sell the specifications and parts kits now at this link: cabinetrefacingtools.blogspot.com/2017/07/a-whizbang-chisel-sharpener.html
where do you find your sandpaper
Very very good job thanks
Thank you. I appreciate the positive feedback!
I would have loved one of these kit jigs but I live in the UK ,I Think you mean it's not possible to buy or send to me ?
New Subscriber here. You have a lot of interesting videos as it appears. However, it I suggest your monolog is much too redundant. I prefer less talking and more doing! If I hear the exact same information more than twice I tend to give a thumbs down and move on to something else....
What about size??
Hello Parviz,
The jig will sharpen chisel or plane blades up to 1-5/8" wide. A typical block plane blade can be sharpened with the jig.
Genius
Hey people are looking for you, where you been?