BMW E36 DIY - IDLE CONTROL VALVE ( ICV ) CLEANING
Vložit
- čas přidán 5. 07. 2013
- This instructions are for BMW E36 (M43B16) 316i 1.6.
To do this you need throttle body & air intake cleaner or brake cleaner and brush, q-tips and paper towels.
Cleaning idle control valve helps resolving cold start issue, rough idle and rpm's changes. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thank you for this demonstration on how to clean the idle control valve, very helpful. Isn't it amazing, that 9 years after posting this, your video is still helping people?
You need to learn how those clips work on the electrical plugs, buddy! you dont rip them out with pliers, you push them in like a button!
exactly that yes
I cringed when I saw that lmao
First thing I saw and then opened the comments...
Yeah, no kidding. I was like WTF? You PUSH them in, and release,
@@TiagoPeralta Did the exact thing. Haven't even watched the video yet, as I'm writing this. IDK if I want to watch the rest of it now.
i just did this on my E36 318i but without removing the safety pin ( as it didn't even have that thing you pulled out on it ! ) but it still fixed my car, Big Thanks to you bro.
Thanks for the video. It was helpful. But, just and FYI. You don't need to rip the metal spring retainer off the electrical connector. All you do is gently push it inward and the connector will pull right off.
This past few days i have this idle problem, everytime i rev. Like 3 to 4 rpm or more and stop rev like changing gear my idle almost drop to 0 rpm or engine died.. after that i watch this in youtube and clean my ICV then test the car and so far so good.. i hope it will last long and ill clean it again next time if this happen🤣
Thank you for this video..
E36 316i bmw
After vacuum leak is eliminated, I would turn to oxygen sensor, ICV and MAF. Things that you can do yourself without taking car to the car service again are cleaning ICV, throttle body and MAF sensor. That will give you better idle and maybe fix your problem. If not, the next thing is O2 sensor which is best to replace.
Hey BMWE36DIY,
Nice DIY. Just one thing I noticed, which will be helpful to you and to everybody out there:
At 0:26 you rip the spring retainer clip off with pliers. You don't need to do that, you just need to press down the spring retainer clip in the middle and you can then pull the connector of all as one unit. That goes for all similar type connectors around the vehicle.
thanks again buddy- I think you are more of a mechanic than most mechanics! - good video work too! I will start eliminating- watch this space!
Many thanks my friend I just did it and everything about idle is normal again !!!! 👏👏
You idle was runing high before you clean it ???
Very good video mate! Off to give this a try now! :)
Thank you so much, it was helpful!
Hi Bruce,
I'm not mechanic but after new plugs, ignition coil and spark plug socket check, I would switch from electrical system to air intake.
You can do rough vacuum leak test with throttle body cleaner. Spray it around rubber boot and vacuum hoses that connect to intake manifold and watch for idle change. All hoses from air filter box to the engine.
Best vacuum test will be smoke test at car service or if you build your smoke machine, which is not difficult if you are really DIY guy. :)
Is there any instcruction for diy smoke machine?
Great tutorial
Did mine nothings changed but it was filthy
After you eliminate electrical system and air intake you have to check fuel supply. You can test fuel relay and listen if fuel pump is priming in your garage, but for fuel pressure test you have to take the car to car service. You can also do injector testing and cleaning.
One more thing that you can do is to test and replace coolant temp sensor.
Thanx man for that movie. I have same engine in my E46 :-D
Excellent video & Nice Music!
It took me awhile to get the pin out but I didnt have brake cleaners at the time only glass cleaner lol but it worked!
Just to share as well I used a small tap to pull the pin. Just thread it in. It will only go so far and then the pin will start spinning in the hole. At that point you just turn and pull it out. To put it in you just leave it on the tap and do the opposite. Hope the FYI helps someone!
Very Helpful Thank You!
Awesome ! Please do some more
Videos !!!
Thank you! It was very helpful!
T
You are right Marty.
I found that few weeks after I made this video.
Very helpful thank you please make more videos
awesome video indeed
this sounds like the eve online music lol. great vid thx
+Gareth Dorscheid It definitely is
'
Not necessary to pull it apart, just remove and spray carb cleaner in around the air flow butterfly, make sure it moves freely and give it a quick blast with compressed air and refit. If butterfly is dirty or jammed up sometimes you will hear a buzzing sound coming from icv when ignition is turned on but but engine is not running.
Very helpful
good video tenks
dude thank you bro! I start my e36 it revs up then to 600 RPMs then starts acting a little funny and engine light comes on and it dies, except if you push in the clutch and keep it the throttle pined it might recover itself, im going to try this in the morning hope it works!
Vincenzo Sheehan did it work
Check if the air intake manifold is all correctly tied up.
Thanks mate :)
really helpfull
Cool thanks!!
Would love to see how to clean the MAF. I have the same setup as you and need to know how to do this. Thanks!
Job well done
Job well done
Thanks
Yes- I concur mate, Brilliant! beats the old haynes manual days! Could you advise me pls? E36 323i cabriolet- Intermitantly cuts out dead- tacho drops quicker than a blink. Will restart no problem, but missing bellow 3000 then picks up. Seems like it could be many things- just had service- new plugs etc- didnt miss a beat when mechanic had it! Camshaft and crank sensors, fuel pump, air meter and the ICV have all been suggested to me- Where would you start?-I would value your opinion
You only have one video. But subcriber more than 1k 👍
Thanks! Will MEK work also?
Nice EVE music :)
thanks! very helpful. I just need some extra tools to give it a go myself.
Aimee Jason why model do you have ?
CoolinKofi I have a e36 .... 97 328ic
good thanks you
I have not yet done this, but in the meantime. .. I just unplugged it. it runs a little rough at 750RPM but I'll take that for now. I will also look into the price of the part and see what it costs. Thank you for the Video!!👌👍
Just checked at the local auto parts store. $210.00 USD 😨😁😁
you can get it from ali express for $30
Instead of removing the bracket you better push it and with second hand pull the connector.
Thats how it works.
But thanks for the video. Have to do the same. Car has near 300k and probably nobody ever did that.
got 260k and i will do mine tomorrow, it looks bad outside
This way is better than just sprying carb cleaner from the 2 holes without detaching the pin. But i cant put the o ring back on so i just left it off and it work just fine. Not sure what the o ring is for?
hey mate, tnx great video! Can i use contact cleaner or WD40 to clean it?
Greetings from Holland
Thanks, very helpful. I have a 95 316i e36. I've been trying to diagnose a problem where the car stalls when cold (only when cold) when you're revving it. Although the the idling isn't that rough the tach bobs and stalls when revving at around 2,500. It recovers and then bobs at around 3,500 and so on... The problem goes away when the engine warms up. Someone suggested cleaning the ICV so I got to your video on search. What are the usual symptoms of a dirty ICV?
vanos
I have the same symptoms on mine. Did you fix it and what was the cause?
Hello, Is it necessary to disconnect the battery before dismantling the regulating valve ? because i want to clean it by myself. Thank you
EVE Online FTW!
Shame you didn’t do more diy videos for the e36
Thanks , but, I wish you had mentioned that the two halves of the body are locked together by plastic lugs on the inside, hence the need to twist them to unlock and separate them, plus the fact that there is a very delicate O ring in the space between the two halves: I just thought I could push them together, crushed some of the lugs and split the O ring.If anything your video makes this aspect look too easy.So I worked too fast; but thanks again.
Bro, I was just about to do this to diagnose my check engine light, almost about to do a fan delete, and a realized the hose that plugs into the chip was unplugged still from my last cleaning 🤣
I know im very late to the party but was hoping for some advice. After cleaning my icv like in the vid, the car wont start at all now after putting it back on. The car cranks but wont fire (It would start before removing the ICV, sometimes or would at least cough and cut out). 1997 318is e36. Any help would be much appreciated!
You don't need to pull the pin out. Simply press it in and pull the cable .
How to fix idle problems with your M50 6 Cyl motor...
Replace the TPS. Throttle position Sensor.
The ICV is often blamed but only sometimes responsible.
If you must try to fix your ICV, then this will fix it. If it is
fixable. Replacement will be better but involves removing the inlet
manifold, which means new rubber manifold o-rings, and lots of $$$
spent!
Firstly, do this out in the open and don't smoke or do this near flames
or sparks.
You will need a spray can (with a tube) of a high grade solvent, that is
filtered when manufactured.
Examples in order of best to least are...
MAF sensor cleaner, Throttle Body cleaner, PCV cleaner or if nothing
else, Electrical contact cleaner. Not sure about brake cleaner...
Follow the tube from the sensor to the ICV and disconnect it from the
other end.
Squirt the solvent down the tube until the tube is full of liquid. Keep
the can handy but out of harm's way. You'll need it soon.
Hold the disconnected end of the tube above the manifold to let gravity
push the liquid down the tube and up to the valve. top up the tube with
the can of solvent.
Then, only this one time, for just 1 or 2 seconds at most, start the car
and switch off the motor.
This is to clear the air in the tube and suck in the fluid).
Now without starting the car, spray more solvent into the tube, then
turn your ignition switch on and off with a 30 second delay, about 20
times.
Important: This is without starting the car.
That means turn key until second click, so ignition is on for 30
seconds, then off for 30 seconds, on for 30, then off for 30... 20
times.
Top up the tube with solvent every time as it will evaporate and drain
inside as you do this. Unless it is near freezing or below, the solvent
evaporates quickly.
Keep it topped up!!!
This turns the electric valve on and off repeatedly, letting the solvent
wash away crap on the valve seat.
On the last on/off cycle you can drain off the extra solvent (or not... )
then you reconnect the tube. If it has gone jelly like and if you have
enough spare length, trim off the softened bit so the hose fits without
leaking air, but check length first as you might not have the length and
its a biatch to replace the tube at the other end!
If it is the ICV then this is the only way to clean it without removing
your manifold.
But honestly, replace the TPS as it is the one that wears out !
Please reply with your results as I know this works...
Both tips work, but others need convincing!
My M50B20 is almost 25 years old and just about to hit 200,000 Km and
I've had it since 135,000 Km.
Until I replaced the TPS, I had 2000 Kms of horrible times.
Check out my car at www.facebook,com/e36bimmer
I'd appreciate any likes or following my page if my tip helped!!
Trust me this really does work!
what is the size of the hdd screws?
I could use some help/pointers. 96 318i. 94k miles, 5spd manual. Car was running fine but 2 weeks ago the plastic water outlet failed on the back of the engine. All coolant leaked out as the large nipple broke off. A major pita to replace but I did it. At the same time I was thinking the similar water outlet on the driver side of the block could be just as bad. So i bought that as well and took the upper intake manifold off and replaced that as well. Changed most hoses too, incl. the ones to the injector as they were in bad shape. After that I noticed oil leak at cyl # 2 so I changed the valve cover gasket. As I was putting back the throttle body, I noticed there was a lot of oil smudge deposit around the butterfly valves, so I cleaned the batterflies and surroundings with kerosin (I had no carb cleaner left) It removed the nasty oil deposits and the valves seem to open and close a little better. No more sticky feel. I then put everything back and now I have a rough idle. It never stalled yet, but its rough. Like its too low, as if I tap the accelerator pedal a little, it smooths out. I drove the car today about 30-40 miles. It did feel slightly better after driving it but once cooled down, its really crap again. It hovers around the 700rpm range but rough, shakes the engine. Here is what I did so far as an attempt to fix it. I put 4 new NGK spark plug on it. I removed the idle control valve and cleaned it. It was not really dirty, but cleaned it anyway. The valve was turning freely and the whole valve seems ok. I also sprayed a lot of intake/throttle cleaner into the throttle body. I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor with the MAF Cleaner as well. No changes whatsoever. Once its revved, the car seems to be running perfectly fine, no hesitation, no vibration, smooth, power seems to be all there, no hard starting, no stalling. I did around 70mph the fastest and it was fine at that speed as well. No other issues but the idle being rough. Its almost like when you have a large V8 with a lumpy idle. Engine shaking, etc. Also, no check engine light, so I can't try and read codes. I tried spraying carb cleaner around the intake manifold, throttle body to see if the idle gets rougher or stalling happens but nothing. Also as the engine gets warmer, it gets slightly better. Still very bad, but a tad smoother. Its like 1 being stalling 5 being perfect, it gets from #2 to #3 and if you drive it a lot, it gets #4 but never smooth like it was before I torn everything down. I'm pretty sure I did something during assembly. It does not seem it just happen to go bad. Right before I started working on it 4 days ago, I pulled into a garage and smooth idle, etc. I ran it only for 40-50 sec as it had no coolant, but car had butter smooth idle. I ordered an O2 sensor, as I was going to change that anyway. I used BMW parts and NGK spark plugs. I appreciate any and all help as I'm a bit lost at the moment.
did you ever find out what the issue was?
more videos please
Merci beaucoup mais est-ce qu'on peut nettoyer avec de l'alcool s'il vous plaît ??
Would that cause bad idling and constant Dieing and no throttle power
BMWE36DIY hey, can you redo this video and add the part about reattaching the safety clip and/or using the hdd screw? i would like to see what its supposed to look like when you put it back in
You're not supposed to remove the clip. Simply push it in and pull the connector.
nice music
12 y/o in me "gently pull out" giggity
Hi, that pin is soooooooooo hard to remove that I couldn't
You could of pushed the pin in by hand.....
And it would release
i have a minimum feeling in when i spin the cilinder.. should it be 100% freely?
sometimes my rev drops whem coming to a stop and than its normal again, thanks...
Anybody?
put more cleaner until run free
🌹🌞 bitawfi9
السلام وعليكم المحرك بيركب على e30 نفس الشبكة الكهرباء
a7la 👍toll'3ala'''dary
Mine got worse and started stalling after I cleaned it
Is that a 1.6 motor or a 1.9
+23briansanchez 1.6
Man them clips just don't rip out like that. Jeez
all info 436 m44 repais
yeah quick question how do you get this pin out? hahah
don't do that to the clips made me cringe so hard!!
Warze!
??
cant believe this vid has multiple ppl breaking the safety clip on the plug...smh. push in and pull the plug out. don't just break the thing cause brain small.
uplne zly pripravok načistenie použity..mali ste použit čistišč škrtiacich klapek....
Stupid loud music
Thanks
Thanks