Video

uplne zly pripravok načistenie použity..mali ste použit čistišč škrtiacich klapek....

Merci beaucoup mais est-ce qu'on peut nettoyer avec de l'alcool s'il vous plaît ??

Very helpful

Thanks

Thank you for this demonstration on how to clean the idle control valve, very helpful. Isn't it amazing, that 9 years after posting this, your video is still helping people?

cant believe this vid has multiple ppl breaking the safety clip on the plug...smh. push in and pull the plug out. don't just break the thing cause brain small.

Stupid loud music

Bro, I was just about to do this to diagnose my check engine light, almost about to do a fan delete, and a realized the hose that plugs into the chip was unplugged still from my last cleaning 🤣

Shame you didn’t do more diy videos for the e36

Great tutorial Did mine nothings changed but it was filthy

You only have one video. But subcriber more than 1k 👍

I could use some help/pointers. 96 318i. 94k miles, 5spd manual. Car was running fine but 2 weeks ago the plastic water outlet failed on the back of the engine. All coolant leaked out as the large nipple broke off. A major pita to replace but I did it. At the same time I was thinking the similar water outlet on the driver side of the block could be just as bad. So i bought that as well and took the upper intake manifold off and replaced that as well. Changed most hoses too, incl. the ones to the injector as they were in bad shape. After that I noticed oil leak at cyl # 2 so I changed the valve cover gasket. As I was putting back the throttle body, I noticed there was a lot of oil smudge deposit around the butterfly valves, so I cleaned the batterflies and surroundings with kerosin (I had no carb cleaner left) It removed the nasty oil deposits and the valves seem to open and close a little better. No more sticky feel. I then put everything back and now I have a rough idle. It never stalled yet, but its rough. Like its too low, as if I tap the accelerator pedal a little, it smooths out. I drove the car today about 30-40 miles. It did feel slightly better after driving it but once cooled down, its really crap again. It hovers around the 700rpm range but rough, shakes the engine. Here is what I did so far as an attempt to fix it. I put 4 new NGK spark plug on it. I removed the idle control valve and cleaned it. It was not really dirty, but cleaned it anyway. The valve was turning freely and the whole valve seems ok. I also sprayed a lot of intake/throttle cleaner into the throttle body. I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor with the MAF Cleaner as well. No changes whatsoever. Once its revved, the car seems to be running perfectly fine, no hesitation, no vibration, smooth, power seems to be all there, no hard starting, no stalling. I did around 70mph the fastest and it was fine at that speed as well. No other issues but the idle being rough. Its almost like when you have a large V8 with a lumpy idle. Engine shaking, etc. Also, no check engine light, so I can't try and read codes. I tried spraying carb cleaner around the intake manifold, throttle body to see if the idle gets rougher or stalling happens but nothing. Also as the engine gets warmer, it gets slightly better. Still very bad, but a tad smoother. Its like 1 being stalling 5 being perfect, it gets from #2 to #3 and if you drive it a lot, it gets #4 but never smooth like it was before I torn everything down. I'm pretty sure I did something during assembly. It does not seem it just happen to go bad. Right before I started working on it 4 days ago, I pulled into a garage and smooth idle, etc. I ran it only for 40-50 sec as it had no coolant, but car had butter smooth idle. I ordered an O2 sensor, as I was going to change that anyway. I used BMW parts and NGK spark plugs. I appreciate any and all help as I'm a bit lost at the moment.

Thanks

Mine got worse and started stalling after I cleaned it

Not necessary to pull it apart, just remove and spray carb cleaner in around the air flow butterfly, make sure it moves freely and give it a quick blast with compressed air and refit. If butterfly is dirty or jammed up sometimes you will hear a buzzing sound coming from icv when ignition is turned on but but engine is not running.

This past few days i have this idle problem, everytime i rev. Like 3 to 4 rpm or more and stop rev like changing gear my idle almost drop to 0 rpm or engine died.. after that i watch this in youtube and clean my ICV then test the car and so far so good.. i hope it will last long and ill clean it again next time if this happen🤣 Thank you for this video..

السلام وعليكم المحرك بيركب على e30 نفس الشبكة الكهرباء

Bravo

a7la 👍toll'3ala'''dary

🌹🌞 bitawfi9

I know im very late to the party but was hoping for some advice. After cleaning my icv like in the vid, the car wont start at all now after putting it back on. The car cranks but wont fire (It would start before removing the ICV, sometimes or would at least cough and cut out). 1997 318is e36. Any help would be much appreciated!

Hello, Is it necessary to disconnect the battery before dismantling the regulating valve ? because i want to clean it by myself. Thank you

Nice EVE music :)

Mal o kilit telini aşağıya bastırsan soket cıkıyodu zaten

This way is better than just sprying carb cleaner from the 2 holes without detaching the pin. But i cant put the o ring back on so i just left it off and it work just fine. Not sure what the o ring is for?

more videos please

Man them clips just don't rip out like that. Jeez

nice music

use those plies to rip that disgusting mole off your arm

Job well done Job well done

Thanks , but, I wish you had mentioned that the two halves of the body are locked together by plastic lugs on the inside, hence the need to twist them to unlock and separate them, plus the fact that there is a very delicate O ring in the space between the two halves: I just thought I could push them together, crushed some of the lugs and split the O ring.If anything your video makes this aspect look too easy.So I worked too fast; but thanks again.

Thank you so much, it was helpful!

don't do that to the clips made me cringe so hard!!

I have not yet done this, but in the meantime. .. I just unplugged it. it runs a little rough at 750RPM but I'll take that for now. I will also look into the price of the part and see what it costs. Thank you for the Video!!👌👍

EVE Online FTW!

How to fix idle problems with your M50 6 Cyl motor... Replace the TPS. Throttle position Sensor. The ICV is often blamed but only sometimes responsible. If you must try to fix your ICV, then this will fix it. If it is fixable. Replacement will be better but involves removing the inlet manifold, which means new rubber manifold o-rings, and lots of $$$ spent! Firstly, do this out in the open and don't smoke or do this near flames or sparks. You will need a spray can (with a tube) of a high grade solvent, that is filtered when manufactured. Examples in order of best to least are... MAF sensor cleaner, Throttle Body cleaner, PCV cleaner or if nothing else, Electrical contact cleaner. Not sure about brake cleaner... Follow the tube from the sensor to the ICV and disconnect it from the other end. Squirt the solvent down the tube until the tube is full of liquid. Keep the can handy but out of harm's way. You'll need it soon. Hold the disconnected end of the tube above the manifold to let gravity push the liquid down the tube and up to the valve. top up the tube with the can of solvent. Then, only this one time, for just 1 or 2 seconds at most, start the car and switch off the motor. This is to clear the air in the tube and suck in the fluid). Now without starting the car, spray more solvent into the tube, then turn your ignition switch on and off with a 30 second delay, about 20 times. Important: This is without starting the car. That means turn key until second click, so ignition is on for 30 seconds, then off for 30 seconds, on for 30, then off for 30... 20 times. Top up the tube with solvent every time as it will evaporate and drain inside as you do this. Unless it is near freezing or below, the solvent evaporates quickly. Keep it topped up!!! This turns the electric valve on and off repeatedly, letting the solvent wash away crap on the valve seat. On the last on/off cycle you can drain off the extra solvent (or not... ) then you reconnect the tube. If it has gone jelly like and if you have enough spare length, trim off the softened bit so the hose fits without leaking air, but check length first as you might not have the length and its a biatch to replace the tube at the other end! If it is the ICV then this is the only way to clean it without removing your manifold. But honestly, replace the TPS as it is the one that wears out ! Please reply with your results as I know this works... Both tips work, but others need convincing! My M50B20 is almost 25 years old and just about to hit 200,000 Km and I've had it since 135,000 Km. Until I replaced the TPS, I had 2000 Kms of horrible times. Check out my car at www.facebook,com/e36bimmer I'd appreciate any likes or following my page if my tip helped!! Trust me this really does work!

Instead of removing the bracket you better push it and with second hand pull the connector. Thats how it works. But thanks for the video. Have to do the same. Car has near 300k and probably nobody ever did that.

Many thanks my friend I just did it and everything about idle is normal again !!!! 👏👏

thanks! very helpful. I just need some extra tools to give it a go myself.

good video tenks

You need to learn how those clips work on the electrical plugs, buddy! you dont rip them out with pliers, you push them in like a button!

i have a minimum feeling in when i spin the cilinder.. should it be 100% freely? sometimes my rev drops whem coming to a stop and than its normal again, thanks...

this sounds like the eve online music lol. great vid thx

Is that a 1.6 motor or a 1.9

You don't need to pull the pin out. Simply press it in and pull the cable .

You could of pushed the pin in by hand..... And it would release

Thanks, very helpful. I have a 95 316i e36. I've been trying to diagnose a problem where the car stalls when cold (only when cold) when you're revving it. Although the the idling isn't that rough the tach bobs and stalls when revving at around 2,500. It recovers and then bobs at around 3,500 and so on... The problem goes away when the engine warms up. Someone suggested cleaning the ICV so I got to your video on search. What are the usual symptoms of a dirty ICV?

It took me awhile to get the pin out but I didnt have brake cleaners at the time only glass cleaner lol but it worked!

Cool thanks!!

Thanks! Will MEK work also?