Love the video. Lots of useful information. I’m starting to rebuild my dads 55 210.. he passed last year and now I’m going to finish it for him. Big restore project 😊
Well sir the first car we had that I adopted was a 1956 Chevrolet 150 six cylinder three speed. My Granddaddy bought it from the original owner in 1961. In 1968 Granddaddy gave it to my father for us kids to drive and it smoked like a freight train. Consequently we fixed the engine and got the car into good mechanical shape and put a paint job on it (my Dad sprayed it). That was a good reliable car and later on I put a .060 over 283 hot rod engine in it and it ran good, but of course a young kid with a lead foot sort of tears things up. You are correct in that the tri-fives weigh about the same as a Chevelle as I have a 69 El Camino and actually the stock wheels from a 55 Chevrolet use the same bolt pattern and bolt right up to a drum brake Chevelle (don't know about the discs. You have some very good tips and results from experience and one thing that we get ourselves trapped into is we listen to too many folks who may or may not know what they are talking about. We have so much stuff available out here (tons of stuff as opposed to the late sixties). There is so much stuff that we get attention deficit disorder trying to absorb it all. I would advise someone who is just starting out on these cars is to learn the vehicle, how it comes apart (but do not take it down to a basket case just yet) and research the different outlets that can provide the proper updates to make the car a safe driver (your recommendations as to Speedway are good). It is best for the individual starting out to get information from reliable sources but then again there are many "reliable sources" out there. These vehicles even with their deficient designs and engineering (of course we have to consider the times) are good basic vehicles for the beginner to learn on. My Dad allowed me to dismantle the car we had to a point but he kept me in line with the "hot rod s@#t". We wound up with a good looking automobile that was safe to drive and reliable. I also learned how to take stuff apart and put it together and that experience was and is still priceless.
Thank you for your insights. I had a 150 series '55 with a 283 out of a Chevelle with a three speed "mystery" shifter on the floor. 5 years ago, I acquired a '55 210 that I bought from a semi not too reputle dealer thet had a shot frame and a bunch of stuff as a parts car on his lot. Short story, new frame and off the body swap with new suspension , five leafs, big block springs, tube A arms, etc. I am working the body, welding up the trim holes and converting it to a 150 from the 210 it was with almost no chrome. The bottom line is it is also set up with good side mounts that I did and several other "guess" options that are correct by your vid. Thank you!!!
This is exactly where I am with my ‘55 Nomad “project car”, which came to me as an empty, rolling shell. The original 265/3-speed (overdrive!) is long gone and I got a 1962 327 and a Powerglide in the deal. The original front mounts are still bolted to the frame. I have some homework to do to!
Well I tell you this. A friend of mine acquired a 1956 Chevrolet Nomad in a trade. It had the original engine and bellhousing mounts (rear mounts to the frame). Well he had all of the stuff to put a small block engine in the car with a later model automatic (350 Turbo) and he also had an original V8 bellhousing for the 55-57 Chevrolet. So what he and another friend of mine did was to mock up a SBC and three speed standard transmission (Saginaw three speed out of a later model car fully synchronized and the they fabricated the side mounts for the engine and a rear crossmember for the transmission. Then he used a 327 that he horse traded with the 350 turbo which is the same set-up as the Saginaw three speed. Of course he had all of this stuff and it made the job easier but then again we did not have all of this stuff available back in the mid to late seventies when this was done. And of course the ignition was standard points ignition as we were just coming into the HEI units and people were not adapting to them at that time. So the combination that he had was the same as what came from the factory as far as placement and alignment was concerned.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! for all of your REAL WORLD experience, I really appreciate it, all your video's have so much useful information for building a tri-five!!! I have a 55 210 2 door I'm working on
Haff you are amazing my friend,I,m 66 years old,I have had 6 55’s and I have learned so much from you,I just really enjoy your videos,take care my friend
Im building a 56 sedan with a sbc and 4 speed. I used cpp mid mount motor mounts. stock location. and I was really surprised that a hei didnt hit the firewall. it is really close but Im able to adjust the timing. Im really happy about that. also I got super lucky and bought all original but rebuilt control arms, leaf springs, traction bars and disc brake conversion from a guy that put ridetech on his car. It got my field car road worthy. I guess what I would say is tri five chevys are such a common car even today that there are still deals on used parts out there. making the great budget cars to build and enjoy
First off,how is your wife doing?I was gonna throw in that Speedway has a master cylinder like the 62 Chevy truck that has a stainless steel sleeve.I have one on my 55 along with all new working emergency brake equipment LOL.I always took it for granted that the old style mounts were the same on V8 and 6 cylinders just mounted on a different place in the block.They are indeed drilled different and wont interchange.They have a 6 or 8 stamped on the back side.Mine still has original style mounts with the stock 55 bellhousing ear mounts.My transmission is a late 60s Saginaw 3 speed so I also put a rear crossmember in it to support it.If I build another one it will have front discs.I already had all new stainless brake lines and I wanted to use them.Mine has the drums with the roller bearing hub conversion in the front and it isnt any cheaper than a disc kit.
Great video very helpful! I know this sounds dumb. Can you do a video on steering and steering columns? And rear ends? Can’t wait to see the car at Starbird. I will be there selling Rt.66 T-shirts again.
When I convert to a dual master, I have been using a 1979 olds delta 88 dual master with no proportioning valve and no booster on drum/drum brakes and it works great. I also put one of these masters on a 79 olds cutlass booster that was on a car with drum/drum and have had no issues there as well.
@@haffrods7055 I tested slamming on the brakes on gravel and pavement and all that has happened is one rear wheel would lock up but immediately unlocks if I let up on the brake pedal the slightest bit and continues to brake however hard I am pressing the pedal.
One thing I just ran into one my 55 build is the ignition switch while using an HEI distributor. On my ignition switch, it was an original 55 style which has two terminals for the ignition. IGN-1 and IGN-2. If your ignition switch has these two terminals, and you’re using an HEI distributor, make sure you jumper the two terminals together. Initially I didn’t and while I turn the key to the start position, I lost 12 volt power going to the distributor
The 3/4" forward mounts can make steering to oil pan clearance problems, depending on what pan you have. It's a good mod, but has potential to be a pain in the ass too.
@@haffrods7055 I have a Blueprint 396 small block crate engine. Pan appears to be a pretty standard stamped steel OE pan like you'd find in a pick-up. center link hits the pan appraoching lock in both directions. Chevy II's have this problem too, and Weiand makes a pan that fixes the issue. Weiand 5022WND
Great tips, thanks for sharing. I noticed on your hardtop and wife's 55 that you have angled heater hose fittings, both on the intake manifold and water pump. My SBC has 3/4" NTP threads and I cannot find any online or my local parts store. It doesn't seem like such a rare part but evidently it is. I'm trying to make more room for a fuel pump regulator similar to what you did on your 55. Thanks for any suggestions.
So much great information to help a guy avoid many mistakes like the problem I have run into. I have installed a minimum offset disc brake conversion on my 55 Bel Air. The calipers stick out past the mounting face of the rotor by 3/8" so the 15x5 factory wheels no longer fit. I am hoping to keep the factory look of poverty caps and tried Wheel Vintiques 67 O.E series with b/s of 2.75, no luck. Any ideas!
You can use the one from the Chevelle as well and that's a ruler as a wild master's over so that's much better especially if you're going to re fabricate all the lines I've seen DD switch out do it I've seen Derek from bicycle garage is gotta hit 57 set up with the master cylinder from Michelle cause that's what he had and it bolts right on right in place of the signal pot but you have to rewrite the lines to where you have dual lines like a chavelle or Armani Carlo would have and those years that you're speaking Of
I've been doing the dual pots myself on tri 5 projects since the early 90's. Just about any GM master will fit. I've used Nova, Chevelle, G body, S10, etc.
A wealth of information! Thanks! I just purchased an all original 55 Belair 4 door sedan. 100% original and outstanding condition. What upgrades would you consider making, but would also keep the car sort of stocky?
4dr 55 bel air for the wife and a 2dr post car del ray I'm now interested in removing the inline 6 from the 4dr what small block motor mounts do u suggest
If you use a 65 impala hub and bearings you can use a 79 trans am rear rotor on the front with the rest of your disc kit and the wheels track factory . Just an old tip
@@haffrods7055 I did it in the 80s , I have a gasser I built in votech ,but 77 , and a cruiser I built around 83 . Still have them . BTW one is a DZ 302 with cross ram 4 spd , 12 bolt , all from rolled z28 , with a 55 truck axle, the other is a 396 4 spd 8 3/4 . Both used stock mounts , never had an issue. Like the videos ! Keep up the good work ! Both cars are 55 hdtps
Are there any really get it done videos on wiper transmission cable hookups on the web ? All show some ,non show all a way to keep them in place during installation . I've had a total of 17 Tri-Fives and was blessed with NO WIPER headaches but this last 57 210 sedan I am doing is getting sold or beat to death and the latter is most likely as it's easier at the moment of mind loss....... My last desperate move will be pulling it all back out of the firewall and setting it up on a firewall & dash I cut out of a 57 parts car and cutting the top out of it for an exposed view and after attaching each cable in place I'm going to Crazy glue each one in place so they stay on and then slap the whole mess back in and bolt her up and hope the wiper motor has enough HP to to pop'em all free again ! Thanks
I have not seen any good videos on it either. I'll be doing one but long way down the road for it. The 57 has an adjustable part for getting slack out correct?
How do you feel about rear disc? I know rear wheels don't provide near as much stopping force as the front, I'm wondering if the money savins with disc on the rear is as much as on the front by the time you resurface drums, buy good shoes, etc. Thanks and prayers for your wife and you.
Great info! I was hoping you would touch on the steering and suspension a little more. Are tubular control arms worth it? Do you run a sway bar? Power vs manual steering? I'm sure there's a lot of info I need to know related to that stuff.
Front sway bar is awesome upgrade. The body roll goes away and it's more stable. The stock manual steering is slow ratio. It takes several turns of the steering wheel. If running wide tires, the stock 18" steering wheel is nice with stock box. Tubular control arms are better but stock stuff with new parts work just fine. It's all about budget.
@@haffrods7055 good to know about the sway bar. My 55 belair came with the factory power steering setup which is a one piece deal with the alternator. Should I try to make that setup work again? The car is in rough shape, it's been sitting since the 80's but it all seems to be there. I don't think I would mind manual steering though, it steers really easy in the driveway.
The generators are problematic. They cannot keep up with accessories especially at night when the headlights are on. I think they're only 25 to 30 amps. They don't charge very well at idle either.@@subzero18851
Great info. Starting a 55. Family car totally original and complete. How do you feel about running the 265? Maybe a mild cam and headers ? Love to hear your thoughts
I personally don't like the old small blocks from 50's to 60's. The main reason is more expensive rebuilds. The heads are not set up to run unleaded fuels. There are no accessory holes anywhere especially the heads. The old road draft tube engines stink and you can smell hot oil in the car. Todays unleaded fuels with old high compression engines with iron heads is not a good combination. A 350 Chevy cannot be beat for budget small block. Now this is my PERSONAL opinion only.
@@haffrods7055 hmmm. Good info. I just wanted to keep it original. More from being a family cat my mom bought in 59. It’s just going to be a 10ft driver. No long trips…put a car lift in 2 months ago…been gearing up for this since age 16. It will be a budget build. Ordering the front disk kit from speedway next week.. would you ever order the 2” offset spindles to lower the front stance ?
Hi ,I use the off set bolt hole small starters from factory late 80's and 90's S-10's , Astro v-6 Vortec motors and various GM 's on all my SBC 's and on my BBC's as well and they have a lot more torque than any of the large ones and 99% of them bolt right on with NO shims needed . I also use the small starters off the Mopar trucks on my 67 GT Dart 340 Magnum and my HP 440 in my 69 Road Chicken and they spin the motors twice as fast as the originals and on all of them the header clearance is ALSOME ! I have used the after market small torque starters a couple of times and both of those almost $200 pieces of crap needed shimmed and still made the flywheel sound like a Banshee trying to rip somethings head off and one even snapped in half .I pick up a GM starter at the yard almost every time I go their for my Chevy's and at $20 apiece you can't have enough on stock as my buddies are always bumming them out of me ,LOL's@@haffrods7055
I think the driveshaft will work with the yoke changed to fit the TH350. I'm going off memory but I think it has to be a short tail TH350. Also has to be stock location engine mounts. It's been a while (90's) since I did one this way. I have mostly moved engine forward for HEI clearance so I have to get new driveshafts made.
Hey man I purchased a 57 chevy with a 350 motor setting in it, it does have the stock motor mounts, I was going to add a rear crossmember, can you give me some info as to why it would be a bad idea? Thanks
Not 100% sure why the manufacturers do not recommend front mounts with a crossmember. It probably puts too much weight on the front mounts. It would basically have engine and trans weight combined since they'd be hanging.
I've installed cross members on my 55 ,and both of my 57's and the hardtop being a 402 BB but all are 4-speed Muncies . I still use front mounts along with bellhousing mounts and when I install my crossmembers I just lightly push them up against the trans mount and add the end cradle brackets ,I don't push or force any weight off the tranny as I only add them for extra torque pressure and help at the tail shaft area for the drive shaft and believe me when I lace that 72 Heavy Chey 402 that whole drive train system goes through hell and it's been holding for 38 years and so far Thank God I haven't had any vibrations or weird stuff from any of them ,just a smooth drive train . The 402 HT has a 69 Chevelle factory BB crossmember I shortened under it and it has beautiful long tube header and muffler clearance , actually way better than the after market ones I put on me 55 Bel Air Sedan and the 57 210 I'm building right now.@@haffrods7055
@@haffrods7055 Maybe they FINALLY started stocking it. It got to the point where it had to be special ordered, not even an empty spot on the shelf. When you went to ask, they kinda acted like you were asking them for blinker fluid or something. At one point my husband discovered Advance Auto carried it, only we don’t have any Advanced Autos. The bizarre thing is that we don’t really have and CarQuests either, but I remembered, for some reason, despite this, they both shared a distribution center in a neighboring town, with a store front, which claimed to have it in stock. We made a special trip and couldn’t find it. We figured being a warehouse, it might be in the back, but again, they acted like it was blinker fluid when we asked. But the website said they had at least one, and sure enough, we eventually found it, with the DOT3s. It didn’t have a space, so someone just stuck it there. My husbands 55 GMC uses DOT5 because it has some sort of modern brake booster out of a Honda. Trucks an EV, so no vacuum for a traditional brake booster. I have an old 57 4 door sedan that will also one day be an EV, but the disc brake kits and body mount tips were still worth watching.
Love the video. Lots of useful information. I’m starting to rebuild my dads 55 210.. he passed last year and now I’m going to finish it for him. Big restore project 😊
Well sir the first car we had that I adopted was a 1956 Chevrolet 150 six cylinder three speed. My Granddaddy bought it from the original owner in 1961. In 1968 Granddaddy gave it to my father for us kids to drive and it smoked like a freight train. Consequently we fixed the engine and got the car into good mechanical shape and put a paint job on it (my Dad sprayed it). That was a good reliable car and later on I put a .060 over 283 hot rod engine in it and it ran good, but of course a young kid with a lead foot sort of tears things up. You are correct in that the tri-fives weigh about the same as a Chevelle as I have a 69 El Camino and actually the stock wheels from a 55 Chevrolet use the same bolt pattern and bolt right up to a drum brake Chevelle (don't know about the discs. You have some very good tips and results from experience and one thing that we get ourselves trapped into is we listen to too many folks who may or may not know what they are talking about. We have so much stuff available out here (tons of stuff as opposed to the late sixties). There is so much stuff that we get attention deficit disorder trying to absorb it all. I would advise someone who is just starting out on these cars is to learn the vehicle, how it comes apart (but do not take it down to a basket case just yet) and research the different outlets that can provide the proper updates to make the car a safe driver (your recommendations as to Speedway are good). It is best for the individual starting out to get information from reliable sources but then again there are many "reliable sources" out there. These vehicles even with their deficient designs and engineering (of course we have to consider the times) are good basic vehicles for the beginner to learn on. My Dad allowed me to dismantle the car we had to a point but he kept me in line with the "hot rod s@#t". We wound up with a good looking automobile that was safe to drive and reliable. I also learned how to take stuff apart and put it together and that experience was and is still priceless.
Thank you for your insights. I had a 150 series '55 with a 283 out of a Chevelle with a three speed "mystery" shifter on the floor. 5 years ago, I acquired a '55 210 that I bought from a semi not too reputle dealer thet had a shot frame and a bunch of stuff as a parts car on his lot. Short story, new frame and off the body swap with new suspension , five leafs, big block springs, tube A arms, etc. I am working the body, welding up the trim holes and converting it to a 150 from the 210 it was with almost no chrome. The bottom line is it is also set up with good side mounts that I did and several other "guess" options that are correct by your vid. Thank you!!!
This is exactly where I am with my ‘55 Nomad “project car”, which came to me as an empty, rolling shell. The original 265/3-speed (overdrive!) is long gone and I got a 1962 327 and a Powerglide in the deal. The original front mounts are still bolted to the frame. I have some homework to do to!
Well I tell you this. A friend of mine acquired a 1956 Chevrolet Nomad in a trade. It had the original engine and bellhousing mounts (rear mounts to the frame). Well he had all of the stuff to put a small block engine in the car with a later model automatic (350 Turbo) and he also had an original V8 bellhousing for the 55-57 Chevrolet. So what he and another friend of mine did was to mock up a SBC and three speed standard transmission (Saginaw three speed out of a later model car fully synchronized and the they fabricated the side mounts for the engine and a rear crossmember for the transmission. Then he used a 327 that he horse traded with the 350 turbo which is the same set-up as the Saginaw three speed. Of course he had all of this stuff and it made the job easier but then again we did not have all of this stuff available back in the mid to late seventies when this was done. And of course the ignition was standard points ignition as we were just coming into the HEI units and people were not adapting to them at that time. So the combination that he had was the same as what came from the factory as far as placement and alignment was concerned.
Sold my Shelby Cobra and now working on my 55 chevy belair 2 door hardtop,,hope my car will be as beautiful as yours.Thanks for all your Vidio’s.
Great advice! I learned a lot of information on how to set up my car from this vidio.Thank you so much.
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. Good info
Another excellent video filled with useful information. Thank you for posting
Great info thanks for the tips
Excellent video thank you
Excellent information!!!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! for all of your REAL WORLD experience, I really appreciate it, all your video's have so much useful information for building a tri-five!!! I have a 55 210 2 door I'm working on
Thanks for the info ! Your info is a treasure !
Very good info! Thank you for sharing.
Very nice info. I'm building my first trifive after many years of impalas, gbodies, and c10s. Very helpful. Thank you!
Great information.
Thanks for the tips. Hope your wife feels better.
This is great information. Thank you.
Haff you are amazing my friend,I,m 66 years old,I have had 6 55’s and I have learned so much from you,I just really enjoy your videos,take care my friend
My man you need to get a CZcams started then too! Ppl love to see that stuff
Great info, thanks.
Cool info. 😎👍😎
Great shared knowledge thanks a lot!!
Great info.
Thank you very much!
That car is exactly what I have and what I’m trying to do come spring of 2024.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks . Starting my first tri5 . 56 2 dr handyman wagon
Thanks for the information answered alot
Im building a 56 sedan with a sbc and 4 speed. I used cpp mid mount motor mounts. stock location. and I was really surprised that a hei didnt hit the firewall. it is really close but Im able to adjust the timing. Im really happy about that. also I got super lucky and bought all original but rebuilt control arms, leaf springs, traction bars and disc brake conversion from a guy that put ridetech on his car. It got my field car road worthy. I guess what I would say is tri five chevys are such a common car even today that there are still deals on used parts out there. making the great budget cars to build and enjoy
I like your content. I'm repurposing a 57 2dr. Sedan onto a dirt late model . toy.
First off,how is your wife doing?I was gonna throw in that Speedway has a master cylinder like the 62 Chevy truck that has a stainless steel sleeve.I have one on my 55 along with all new working emergency brake equipment LOL.I always took it for granted that the old style mounts were the same on V8 and 6 cylinders just mounted on a different place in the block.They are indeed drilled different and wont interchange.They have a 6 or 8 stamped on the back side.Mine still has original style mounts with the stock 55 bellhousing ear mounts.My transmission is a late 60s Saginaw 3 speed so I also put a rear crossmember in it to support it.If I build another one it will have front discs.I already had all new stainless brake lines and I wanted to use them.Mine has the drums with the roller bearing hub conversion in the front and it isnt any cheaper than a disc kit.
Great video very helpful! I know this sounds dumb. Can you do a video on steering and steering columns? And rear ends? Can’t wait to see the car at Starbird. I will be there selling Rt.66 T-shirts again.
When I convert to a dual master, I have been using a 1979 olds delta 88 dual master with no proportioning valve and no booster on drum/drum brakes and it works great. I also put one of these masters on a 79 olds cutlass booster that was on a car with drum/drum and have had no issues there as well.
What does it do when you lock up the brakes?
@@haffrods7055 I tested slamming on the brakes on gravel and pavement and all that has happened is one rear wheel would lock up but immediately unlocks if I let up on the brake pedal the slightest bit and continues to brake however hard I am pressing the pedal.
One thing I just ran into one my 55 build is the ignition switch while using an HEI distributor. On my ignition switch, it was an original 55 style which has two terminals for the ignition. IGN-1 and IGN-2. If your ignition switch has these two terminals, and you’re using an HEI distributor, make sure you jumper the two terminals together. Initially I didn’t and while I turn the key to the start position, I lost 12 volt power going to the distributor
This is TRUE. My hardtop is this way
Lots of really good info. Thank you!
The 3/4" forward mounts can make steering to oil pan clearance problems, depending on what pan you have. It's a good mod, but has potential to be a pain in the ass too.
I've never ran into that with a small block. What pan did you use?
@@haffrods7055 I have a Blueprint 396 small block crate engine. Pan appears to be a pretty standard stamped steel OE pan like you'd find in a pick-up. center link hits the pan appraoching lock in both directions. Chevy II's have this problem too, and Weiand makes a pan that fixes the issue. Weiand 5022WND
Best turorial upgrade video ever
When you move the motor forward 3/4 inch can i run short water pump and radiator located v8 or move it to the front 6 cly
Great tips, thanks for sharing. I noticed on your hardtop and wife's 55 that you have angled heater hose fittings, both on the intake manifold and water pump. My SBC has 3/4" NTP threads and I cannot find any online or my local parts store. It doesn't seem like such a rare part but evidently it is. I'm trying to make more room for a fuel pump regulator similar to what you did on your 55. Thanks for any suggestions.
I've not seen 3/4" fittings in a small block intake or water pump before. They're usually 1/2". What intake and water pump you got Tim?
@@haffrods7055 It's a 383 stroker (350) in a El Camino. The outside dimension is 3/4 on both the hose fitting into the intake and water pump top.
@@haffrods7055 The intake is a Edelbrock.
@@timvilleneuve7244 It's 1/2" Tim
@@haffrods7055 Okay, great, I just thought the outside dimension was the NTP thread size.
Very informative, I just purchase a 55 4 door sedan. Where did you get your crate engine?
So much great information to help a guy avoid many mistakes like the problem I have run into. I have installed a minimum offset disc brake conversion on my 55 Bel Air. The calipers stick out past the mounting face of the rotor by 3/8" so the 15x5 factory wheels no longer fit. I am hoping to keep the factory look of poverty caps and tried Wheel Vintiques 67 O.E series with b/s of 2.75, no luck. Any ideas!
czcams.com/video/JMEzIcLUEEc/video.html
@@haffrods7055 Thank you so much!
68 chevelle duel masters work well for brakes for drum non power
My 55 when I bought it the rear shock M0unts were cracked! Very bad so I changed the mounting points of the rear shocks
You can use the one from the Chevelle as well and that's a ruler as a wild master's over so that's much better especially if you're going to re fabricate all the lines I've seen DD switch out do it I've seen Derek from bicycle garage is gotta hit 57 set up with the master cylinder from Michelle cause that's what he had and it bolts right on right in place of the signal pot but you have to rewrite the lines to where you have dual lines like a chavelle or Armani Carlo would have and those years that you're speaking Of
I've been doing the dual pots myself on tri 5 projects since the early 90's. Just about any GM master will fit. I've used Nova, Chevelle, G body, S10, etc.
A wealth of information! Thanks! I just purchased an all original 55 Belair 4 door sedan. 100% original and outstanding condition. What upgrades would you consider making, but would also keep the car sort of stocky?
Power disk brakes, air conditioning, front sway bar, and power steering are the usual upgrades.
@@haffrods7055, thank you Robert! I am gonna watch what you are doing to your wife’s car, and do some of the same on mine. Appreciate you!
I just pick up my dream car I watch all our videos great Information what's your suspension set up I'm really thinking 17x18 wheels and tires
What did you get?
4dr 55 bel air for the wife and a 2dr post car del ray I'm now interested in removing the inline 6 from the 4dr what small block motor mounts do u suggest
If you use a 65 impala hub and bearings you can use a 79 trans am rear rotor on the front with the rest of your disc kit and the wheels track factory . Just an old tip
Resto Dan showed that in a video
@@haffrods7055 I did it in the 80s , I have a gasser I built in votech ,but 77 , and a cruiser I built around 83 . Still have them . BTW one is a DZ 302 with cross ram 4 spd , 12 bolt , all from rolled z28 , with a 55 truck axle, the other is a 396 4 spd 8 3/4 . Both used stock mounts , never had an issue. Like the videos ! Keep up the good work ! Both cars are 55 hdtps
@@ronaldolweiler7745 I'd love to take a ride in that 302/4 speed. I bet that thing rips
@@haffrods7055 I beat that poor car to death as a kid lol
Are there any really get it done videos on wiper transmission cable hookups on the web ? All show some ,non show all a way to keep them in place during installation . I've had a total of 17 Tri-Fives and was blessed with NO WIPER headaches but this last 57 210 sedan I am doing is getting sold or beat to death and the latter is most likely as it's easier at the moment of mind loss....... My last desperate move will be pulling it all back out of the firewall and setting it up on a firewall & dash I cut out of a 57 parts car and cutting the top out of it for an exposed view and after attaching each cable in place I'm going to Crazy glue each one in place so they stay on and then slap the whole mess back in and bolt her up and hope the wiper motor has enough HP to to pop'em all free again ! Thanks
I have not seen any good videos on it either. I'll be doing one but long way down the road for it. The 57 has an adjustable part for getting slack out correct?
If you live in a state that has a Buc-ee’s, many locations sell 91 Ethanol free octane.
How do you feel about rear disc? I know rear wheels don't provide near as much stopping force as the front, I'm wondering if the money savins with disc on the rear is as much as on the front by the time you resurface drums, buy good shoes, etc. Thanks and prayers for your wife and you.
John, if you're just driving the car, drums are fine. If you autocross it or drive it hard, disk rear would be better.
Do you recommend drop spindles?
Great info! I was hoping you would touch on the steering and suspension a little more. Are tubular control arms worth it? Do you run a sway bar? Power vs manual steering? I'm sure there's a lot of info I need to know related to that stuff.
Front sway bar is awesome upgrade. The body roll goes away and it's more stable. The stock manual steering is slow ratio. It takes several turns of the steering wheel. If running wide tires, the stock 18" steering wheel is nice with stock box. Tubular control arms are better but stock stuff with new parts work just fine. It's all about budget.
@@haffrods7055 good to know about the sway bar. My 55 belair came with the factory power steering setup which is a one piece deal with the alternator. Should I try to make that setup work again? The car is in rough shape, it's been sitting since the 80's but it all seems to be there.
I don't think I would mind manual steering though, it steers really easy in the driveway.
The generators are problematic. They cannot keep up with accessories especially at night when the headlights are on. I think they're only 25 to 30 amps. They don't charge very well at idle either.@@subzero18851
@@haffrods7055 sounds like that idea is out the window. I'm planning on running an electric fan.
I have a 57
any advice about keeping the air ducts that come from the headlights
If you don't have air conditioning, you will be sorry if you remove them.
What was that carburator , Demon from summit
Great info. Starting a 55. Family car totally original and complete. How do you feel about running the 265? Maybe a mild cam and headers ? Love to hear your thoughts
I personally don't like the old small blocks from 50's to 60's. The main reason is more expensive rebuilds. The heads are not set up to run unleaded fuels. There are no accessory holes anywhere especially the heads. The old road draft tube engines stink and you can smell hot oil in the car. Todays unleaded fuels with old high compression engines with iron heads is not a good combination. A 350 Chevy cannot be beat for budget small block. Now this is my PERSONAL opinion only.
@@haffrods7055 hmmm. Good info. I just wanted to keep it original. More from being a family cat my mom bought in 59. It’s just going to be a 10ft driver. No long trips…put a car lift in 2 months ago…been gearing up for this since age 16. It will be a budget build. Ordering the front disk kit from speedway next week.. would you ever order the 2” offset spindles to lower the front stance ?
Great video! Lots of good tips.
What brand starter was it?
I use the Summit or Jegs branded ones. They're usually around $125ish
Hi ,I use the off set bolt hole small starters from factory late 80's and 90's S-10's , Astro v-6 Vortec motors and various GM 's on all my SBC 's and on my BBC's as well and they have a lot more torque than any of the large ones and 99% of them bolt right on with NO shims needed . I also use the small starters off the Mopar trucks on my 67 GT Dart 340 Magnum and my HP 440 in my 69 Road Chicken and they spin the motors twice as fast as the originals and on all of them the header clearance is ALSOME ! I have used the after market small torque starters a couple of times and both of those almost $200 pieces of crap needed shimmed and still made the flywheel sound like a Banshee trying to rip somethings head off and one even snapped in half .I pick up a GM starter at the yard almost every time I go their for my Chevy's and at $20 apiece you can't have enough on stock as my buddies are always bumming them out of me ,LOL's@@haffrods7055
Did you know you can clock the bottom of your fuel pump without hurting a thing? Yeah, it is crimped but not so tight that it won’t turn.
Drive shaft lengths from 6 with 3 on the tree to v8 and th350 will original drive shaft fit?
I think the driveshaft will work with the yoke changed to fit the TH350. I'm going off memory but I think it has to be a short tail TH350. Also has to be stock location engine mounts. It's been a while (90's) since I did one this way. I have mostly moved engine forward for HEI clearance so I have to get new driveshafts made.
Couldn't you if motor is 3/4 forward get a new yoke that is 3/4 to 1 inch longer so you don't need to get new drive shaft? Jw if that's possible?
Road demon ? And what’s that 1/2 inch spacercalled
I think it is called the road Demon. It looks similar to a Edelbrock and AFB style. The spacer is phenolic
Hey man I purchased a 57 chevy with a 350 motor setting in it, it does have the stock motor mounts, I was going to add a rear crossmember, can you give me some info as to why it would be a bad idea? Thanks
Not 100% sure why the manufacturers do not recommend front mounts with a crossmember. It probably puts too much weight on the front mounts. It would basically have engine and trans weight combined since they'd be hanging.
I've installed cross members on my 55 ,and both of my 57's and the hardtop being a 402 BB but all are 4-speed Muncies . I still use front mounts along with bellhousing mounts and when I install my crossmembers I just lightly push them up against the trans mount and add the end cradle brackets ,I don't push or force any weight off the tranny as I only add them for extra torque pressure and help at the tail shaft area for the drive shaft and believe me when I lace that 72 Heavy Chey 402 that whole drive train system goes through hell and it's been holding for 38 years and so far Thank God I haven't had any vibrations or weird stuff from any of them ,just a smooth drive train . The 402 HT has a 69 Chevelle factory BB crossmember I shortened under it and it has beautiful long tube header and muffler clearance , actually way better than the after market ones I put on me 55 Bel Air Sedan and the 57 210 I'm building right now.@@haffrods7055
Where on earth do you get DOT 5? None of the shops seem to sell it. CarQuest/Advanced Auto will list it, but good luck finding it on a shelf.
I bought mine right off the shelf at my local O'Reilleys
@@haffrods7055 Maybe they FINALLY started stocking it. It got to the point where it had to be special ordered, not even an empty spot on the shelf. When you went to ask, they kinda acted like you were asking them for blinker fluid or something. At one point my husband discovered Advance Auto carried it, only we don’t have any Advanced Autos. The bizarre thing is that we don’t really have and CarQuests either, but I remembered, for some reason, despite this, they both shared a distribution center in a neighboring town, with a store front, which claimed to have it in stock.
We made a special trip and couldn’t find it. We figured being a warehouse, it might be in the back, but again, they acted like it was blinker fluid when we asked. But the website said they had at least one, and sure enough, we eventually found it, with the DOT3s. It didn’t have a space, so someone just stuck it there.
My husbands 55 GMC uses DOT5 because it has some sort of modern brake booster out of a Honda. Trucks an EV, so no vacuum for a traditional brake booster. I have an old 57 4 door sedan that will also one day be an EV, but the disc brake kits and body mount tips were still worth watching.
What side mounts do you use?
I've been building mine. The cheap ones on ebay are terrible.
@@haffrods7055 I’ve been looking at the danchuk mounts but not sure if they are any good.
I promise you, you will need a shock bar. If you have anything bigger than a six cylinder doing a burnout just ask me how I know!!
I've been building and driving tri 5's since 1992. I street raced three of them. One had a dome 400 small block. 11 second car. No, you don't need one
@@haffrods7055 then why did my trunk floor crack after doing a burnout?
@@joer5000 It had cracks before most likely.