I happened to be wondering about the pH and lo and behold the first thing you do is whip out the litmus strip! And really helpful final thoughts especially regarding LSPs beyond ceramic coatings. Excellent thanks
One thing you forgot to mention about Pure Risneless is how it will sit flat and not bead off of ceramic coated cars. It has a much thicker consistency compared to other simiar products. It's never bubbled as much for me as it has for you but do I use multiple towels instead of a sponge. I'll second that it's incredible on wheels and tires. Spray it on and you can instantly see it pulling the brake dust and road grime off. I've found it to me as if not more effective at cleaning tires than my usual 5:1 dilution of Carpro Multi-X. I'd be curious to see what your method for rinseless or waterless washing wheels is. I've yet to find a method that I'm completely happy with. Using multiple towels creates a lot of laundry and I'm not able to get into the barrels of my wheels. Part of that does come down to the basket weave like shape of my wheel which does limit access to the barrels. The Incredibrush Flat I use for my normal wheel cleaning would probably work great but I've never actually tried it.
The P&S coating has repelled anything I have thrown at it. Which is impressive because in general it sits flat. Working on a wheel wash video next. It’s been in the que.
Great review once again Guz👍👍 Would like to see you review Griot's Garage Brillant Shine rinseless wash. I've been using it since it came out and it's very easy to use, not fussy and finished out very clean. I have a suspicion that it's pH is along the line of N914.
Kindve ironic that something called "Pure Rinseless" is more soap-like than any other rinseless product on the market due to the amount of surfactants it has.
Hey Mike, I'm running low on n914 which I use mainly for quick detail spraying bird poo and any other contaminants off the car in between washes. I've been happy with mckees and often just misting then changing spray pressure to max does the job. I also appreciate it leaving no streaks so drying doesn't have to be perfect. All of this is to ask, should I get mckees again, P&s absolute or feynlab rinseless. Is feynlab able to be used as a qd at all?
Feynlab is a strong cleaner. Buts weak point is glass as it can be a bit streaky. I would say to try Absolute or DIY Detail Rinseless Wash if you want to try something new. If you don’t like them, which I think you will then you can always go back to N914.
@@MikeGDetailing I agree with you. But from a business standpoint they want you to use more product. If you use their drying towels you don’t get any streaking except on the glass with that dilution ration. The 1/3 oz to gallon you get zero streaking on anything. I do use their recommended dilution ratio for wheels because it breaks down the brake dust way better.
According to Yvan he said a good rinseless will never be sudsy and I’ve tried a couple and they wasn’t sudsy at all . What do you think about the suds ?
As much as I respect Yvan, I doubt he’s tried every single rinseless out on the market. Pure rinseless is a good product regardless of it suds or not. It is essentially a light version of their pure wash shampoo.
@@MikeGDetailing he never talked about any particular product but said a good one won’t have suds and it’s not meant to have suds, he didn’t really say use optimum products but said a good one won’t have to suds , I’ve seen some other videos where they said it leaves streaks and it will strip most wax’s and sealants and can change hydrophobic properties but feynlab claim it won’t affect any protection so bit confused wether to buy it as I’m going to put Gyeon evo mohs on my car and want a rinseless option that won’t change any beading or hydrophobic properties of the coating , but concerned about the streaking , another video suggests it’s too concentrated and the recommended 1:250 is too much and they said 1:375 is better but still leaves streaks on darker cars
@@M.E63 pure rinseless is designed to maintain ceramic or Graphene coatings. It will not strip any coating. It is ph neutral. It offers no protection. It will deep clean the surface. Follow the manufacturers recommended dilution to get optimal results. I haven’t had any issues using it other than it can get sudsy.
@@MikeGDetailing in the other video guy said it can strip most wax’s and sealants and he also stated pH neutral doesn’t mean it won’t strip coatings or wax’s , he also said it kills the beading or changes it but the protection will be still there , but confused about what the actual meaning of ph neutral is as the other detailer said it doesn’t mean it won’t strip protection and it’s a misconception
@@M.E63 if it strips a coating then that coating is no good. It won’t strip a coating. An older wax or sealant, maybe. Just like CarPro Reset which has the precaution that it can degrade a wax or sealant.
Mist the glass with distilled water at the end and wipe with clean towel to remove the residue
Seconded. (I do this with ONR)
I happened to be wondering about the pH and lo and behold the first thing you do is whip out the litmus strip! And really helpful final thoughts especially regarding LSPs beyond ceramic coatings. Excellent thanks
One thing you forgot to mention about Pure Risneless is how it will sit flat and not bead off of ceramic coated cars. It has a much thicker consistency compared to other simiar products. It's never bubbled as much for me as it has for you but do I use multiple towels instead of a sponge. I'll second that it's incredible on wheels and tires. Spray it on and you can instantly see it pulling the brake dust and road grime off. I've found it to me as if not more effective at cleaning tires than my usual 5:1 dilution of Carpro Multi-X.
I'd be curious to see what your method for rinseless or waterless washing wheels is. I've yet to find a method that I'm completely happy with. Using multiple towels creates a lot of laundry and I'm not able to get into the barrels of my wheels. Part of that does come down to the basket weave like shape of my wheel which does limit access to the barrels. The Incredibrush Flat I use for my normal wheel cleaning would probably work great but I've never actually tried it.
The P&S coating has repelled anything I have thrown at it. Which is impressive because in general it sits flat.
Working on a wheel wash video next. It’s been in the que.
Great review once again Guz👍👍
Would like to see you review Griot's Garage Brillant Shine rinseless wash. I've been using it since it came out and it's very easy to use, not fussy and finished out very clean. I have a suspicion that it's pH is along the line of N914.
I would say Pure Rinseless is very sensitive to dilution ratio. I have had the same issues with it sudsing up.
Kindve ironic that something called "Pure Rinseless" is more soap-like than any other rinseless product on the market due to the amount of surfactants it has.
Hola , Saludos, pregunto ha utilizado este producto Feynlab rinless wash como detergente para toallas de microfibers?
No le he usado por eso. Creo que esta bien para eso.
Hey Mike, I'm running low on n914 which I use mainly for quick detail spraying bird poo and any other contaminants off the car in between washes.
I've been happy with mckees and often just misting then changing spray pressure to max does the job. I also appreciate it leaving no streaks so drying doesn't have to be perfect.
All of this is to ask, should I get mckees again, P&s absolute or feynlab rinseless. Is feynlab able to be used as a qd at all?
Feynlab is a strong cleaner. Buts weak point is glass as it can be a bit streaky. I would say to try Absolute or DIY Detail Rinseless Wash if you want to try something new. If you don’t like them, which I think you will then you can always go back to N914.
Mix 1/3 oz per gallon too. Your stuff looked way too sudsy
It was mixed at the proper dilution of 1:250. It is a sudsy product.
@@MikeGDetailing that’s not the proper dilution. Try 1/3 oz to 1 gallon and get back to me.
@@AK-ui1zl then they need to update their site
Dilution Ratio:
Mix PURE RINSELESS to a 1:250 dilution. 1 part PURE RINSELESS to 250 parts water.
@@MikeGDetailing I agree with you. But from a business standpoint they want you to use more product. If you use their drying towels you don’t get any streaking except on the glass with that dilution ration. The 1/3 oz to gallon you get zero streaking on anything. I do use their recommended dilution ratio for wheels because it breaks down the brake dust way better.
They have updated their website saying to use 1oz to 384oz of water. Stuff is the best
Wow I've never seen this product foam like this before. Strange I must say.
Its consistent. A bit on the foamy side.
According to Yvan he said a good rinseless will never be sudsy and I’ve tried a couple and they wasn’t sudsy at all . What do you think about the suds ?
As much as I respect Yvan, I doubt he’s tried every single rinseless out on the market. Pure rinseless is a good product regardless of it suds or not. It is essentially a light version of their pure wash shampoo.
@@MikeGDetailing he never talked about any particular product but said a good one won’t have suds and it’s not meant to have suds, he didn’t really say use optimum products but said a good one won’t have to suds , I’ve seen some other videos where they said it leaves streaks and it will strip most wax’s and sealants and can change hydrophobic properties but feynlab claim it won’t affect any protection so bit confused wether to buy it as I’m going to put Gyeon evo mohs on my car and want a rinseless option that won’t change any beading or hydrophobic properties of the coating , but concerned about the streaking , another video suggests it’s too concentrated and the recommended 1:250 is too much and they said 1:375 is better but still leaves streaks on darker cars
@@M.E63 pure rinseless is designed to maintain ceramic or Graphene coatings. It will not strip any coating. It is ph neutral. It offers no protection. It will deep clean the surface.
Follow the manufacturers recommended dilution to get optimal results. I haven’t had any issues using it other than it can get sudsy.
@@MikeGDetailing in the other video guy said it can strip most wax’s and sealants and he also stated pH neutral doesn’t mean it won’t strip coatings or wax’s , he also said it kills the beading or changes it but the protection will be still there , but confused about what the actual meaning of ph neutral is as the other detailer said it doesn’t mean it won’t strip protection and it’s a misconception
@@M.E63 if it strips a coating then that coating is no good. It won’t strip a coating. An older wax or sealant, maybe. Just like CarPro Reset which has the precaution that it can degrade a wax or sealant.