How to tile shower walls, and custom niche installation Part 2 porcelain tile
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- čas přidán 26. 10. 2018
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This is part 2 of How to install Large Format porcelain tile and niche on shower walls, in this video a talk about some of the most important things that need to be done to get straight, level flat walls when you install your tile and go into much more depth installing the marble tile and river rock in the custom niche. One of the most important things is to get your first row of tiles completely level and straight, so you have a good base to build on. If your first row is off, all the rest will follow and it will be difficult to brig the wall tile back into alignment. I also show how I install the niche and install the marble tile and create a second shelf. There are also many other tips that will be helpful when installing wall tile in a shower with large format tiles.
All tile installed by Sal DiBlasi, Elite-tile Company, in the Boston North Shore area. This video contains affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission if you click on the product link.
#tile #transformthetrade #howtotile #installingtile #howtoinstalltile #Schlutersystems #TCNA #showertile #wall tile
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This bathroom.
Tile layout • How to plan a layout f...
Getting flat walls
• How to get flat walls ...
Prepping for line drain and mud base.
• How to prep for a Line...
Installing linear drain
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Waterproofing and curb installation
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Shower floor river rock.
• How to install pebble ...
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I always admire your craftsmanship. You are a true pro!!
Thank you very much!
If anyone wants to learn, follow this guy. I have installed tile for over 25 years. I don't know him nor have I ever spoken to him but it's very easy to see that he knows what he is doing and his installations are professional.
Thanks, appreciate the endorsement.
There are no words to describe your work and your professionalism. Thanks for giving us your years' experience in these videos.
Wow, thank you!
Very nice work you do Mr. sal!!
I have learn a lot from you!
Thank you.
Looks great Sal, nice job.
What’s great about the trade is that you never get bored, because every bathroom is different!
Nice work there Sal, certainly a lot of work goes into a bathroom like that, looks great 👍
Expertise. Thanks for sharing!
I love it sal,its beautiful, god bless your hands,cant wait to see the line drain sparkle
Here it is czcams.com/video/a-xHcEnv8PE/video.html
Hi Sal you are a very hard working man and very smart at tiles job.
No one comes close to Sal when it comes to tile setting!!!
😊👍
Absolutely stunning! Great work
Thank you so much 😀
Love the videos Sal, I have learned some much by watching you. Is there a reason you keyed tiles with the notched side of the towel instead of the flat?
I love that river stone. Where can I get some for my upcoming shower project?
Very helpful!!! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks
Sal, u the man!! great job and thanks for the tips!! im from cape cod, a quick skip south of you!! Boston strong!!
A good friend of mine does a ton of work on the cape, personally a bit far to go for me.
Sal great video, first one I've seen with a stone inlay for the niche. My question is how did you trim the stone mosaic? Did you use a backer to stiffen it? Thanks again
Love watching you tile Sal, but surely if you aren't using a tile trim on your niche corners you should be cutting 45° mitres.
nice. good men
Great video for us DIY folks! But dam thats one small ass niche!
Hey sal, how do you make really small holes, like around that outlet near the floor? Especially if you don't have a chop saw. Angle grinder?
Quick question, have you ever cut quarter round trim for a niche? If you have could you show a video on how to cut the corners. Please and thank you 🙏🏼 👍🏼👍🏼
Very Nice Work.....Just wondering do you silicone the inside edges of the back piece of the niche before or after the side/top pieces
Sal, nice work. Why don't you put spacers between the bottom shelf and the bottom of the stone mosaic, so as to allow grouting between the two?
Класс :)
Mega 😁
Hi Sal, another excellent job (and video) as always! I see in the corners you're doing short tiles to short tiles, and long to long. I've always done the opposite, short to long and long to short. I think it seems more consistent with the brick pattern. Am I doing it wrong or going against standard convention? Or is it just a matter of preference?
Right or wrong is not the issue, what looks best is what I usually do. The short to short is actually the same tile that has been cut. If the tile is shaded and I will do the back wall and then number all the cuts as I get to the corners so I know which tile belongs to the cuts already on the wall. Then as I do the side wall, i use the cut off to continue around the wall to make it look like the tile has been folded in the corner, it is how you make the pattern continue around the corner. If the tiles are all exactly the same, no need to do that just use another tile, however I always try to preserve the pattern. I try to explain it in Part one czcams.com/video/BYtgtD0VmdI/video.html at 20:26
Thank you so much. After the first row, do you allow the thin set to dry before installing the second row?
No, just keep goong.
@@SalDiBlasi Thank you Sal. I did tile half of the shower today and will finish tomorrow. Many of the things I have learned from you have made my work easier.
Hi sal, I am I the process of installing a kitchen backsplash with a diagonal layout . This is my first time doing this particular job. I learned a lot from watching your video so I feel like I I can do a great job. I ran into a problem when I got to the electrical box. Can you please let me know how to cut the tile around the electrical box for a diagonal layout.?
Thanks
Here is a video of one way to do it, except your tiles are on an angle. czcams.com/video/gg_Mj3vwts8/video.html If you are having trouble with marking the tile, dry lay some of your tile on the counter, enough that would encompass the size of your outlet. Take some measurements from reference points on the wall that you can transfer to the tile on the counter, use a speed square to help, mark your tiles, cut them and install, trim if needed.
Great video thanks for all the excellent tips. For that kerdi board backing you are using... are you using non modified cement to attach the tiles?
Thanks and cheers!
Yes I am in this case, but Schluter makes allset which is modified to set everything with.
@@SalDiBlasi Excellent! Thank you sir. I will get some of that then if I can find it. If not I will just use non modified on the schluter kerdi board to set my tile. Learned a lot from you. Cheers
Always appreciate you giving us this knowledge.
As a newbie are you tiling over regular sheetrock on the left of the shower?
Kerdi Board in the wet area, sheetrock outside the wet area
@@SalDiBlasi Thank you and i really learn a lot from your videos
Hello Sal- I'm currently working on the cement board in my own basement bath shower. I have one 12" sq Kerdi box and one other brand box installed above the Kerdi that has a cool arched top to the shape. My question is, "the install sheet on the Kerdi box says to use the Kerdi Band to join the 'union' of the durock and the box." do you know if it's of the use a 'Cement Board Fibatape' along with a cement board skim patch? Thank you for your time!
Kerdi niche is meant to be used with a Kerdi membrane or kerdi board in a sealed in a sealed system. If you are just installing durock without the sheet kerdi membrane, then you are using it with a non approved method. If you are applying a liquid applied waterproofing membrane over your board, then follow the directions for that product, if you are not installing a waterproofing membrane at all, then it does not matter what you do, it will never be water tight.
I wish I could see how the edges of the niche are finished, since no schluter trim was used. Surely it isn’t left with the raw edges exposed?
Do you ever have a problem with the white tabs breaking off out past the grout line?
For the sides did you have to cut the tile to fit the slope of the bottom piece?
Yes
I learned a lot from your videos. So much appreciated!! Do you recommend a niche like you install that goes edge to edge with cement board or the one that has a lip and goes on a top on cement board. Thank you!
not clear on your question.
My apologies, there are niches that go over the cement board and then you have to feather out the “lip” that’s on a top of the board, and there are ones like schluter has where there is not lip on the niche. I was wondering if one is better than other. Thank you
Ok, if you have a big tile, really does not matter much, but for small tiles, every hump and bump matters. I never use the ones that overlap.
Sal DiBlasi thank you, it does make sense!
SuperXVG has
Hi Sal! How do you polish the raw edges to get the shine? Thanks, Blake
Here is a video czcams.com/video/bGWPfTqiaxI/video.html
Or you can just use a grinder to miter the corners.
Sal another fine job.
I have a few things to coment on. First the audiance needs or should at least have an understanding how long a job like this takes from start to finiish so they have and understanding why pros like us need to charge for our time because of the man hours involed to do this type of install. Next I am not sure if you mention on any of your videos how important it is and easier it is to remove the thinset from the joints the next day when you remove the leviling clips while cement is still soft. Finial note if you are using Mapei thinset over sheet rock they require you to prime with eco prime grip first.
I have learned from past experience that talking about time and cost always leads to trouble. There are so many factors that impact the time it takes and the cost of a job, it always leads to confusion. As far as cleaning thinset goes, groutlines should be kept as clean as possible at all times, the longer th mortar has time to set, the harder it gets, so clean when fresh and any left over the next day. Priming drywall is always a good idea, but not required, your confusion is with gypsum leveling compounds and patching products. When thinset mortar comes in contact with gypsum, it has a chemical reaction which results in a substance I can't remember the name of, cuasing a bond failure.
@@SalDiBlasi Ettringite is formed when gypsum comes
in contact with a cement-based product. The priming should be done becasue you have no idea of the make up of the joint compound. You can not prime the walls with a drywall primer for painting then adhere thinset to it. If you chose not to prime drywall with specifed product from thinset manufacture then the joints of the drywall should be taped and filled with the setting materials for the tile and dry wall should be free from greese, paint, dust, or anything that would impeed the adhesion on the setting materail to the drywall.
Yes all very good advice, but listing every condition and remedy is not possible on a short video. I always advise to read the entire label for suitable substrates, limitations mixing and application. I recently had this conversation with a Mapei rep. Drywall is fine, although it is never a bad idea to prime with a suitable primer.
Do you have anything on installing corner shelves in the show
I don't think I have a specific video for that, but I have addressed it in several videos. Trick is to find them, sorry.
Sal Great Vid by the way mate, but how come your working in the dark @26.16 must've been hard to see whilst
your cutting.
Actually plenty of light, camera makes it look darker than it is.
what size niche is that
Have you ever done a running bond with square tiles? If so how does it look, just curious, my boss always gets me the same cheap semi square tiles and wanted to try something different as apposed to just stacking them on top of each other. Also do you bevel the cut edge of bull nose tile. The bullnose I'm using has a cut edge but it's not rounded like the factory edge. Is that normal? If it is why not just cut my own bullnose. Would be much cheaper and just as good as long as you have a sharp blade, right? But like I said, I'm using cheap tile.
I have done all kinds of patterns including the one you mentioned, it is usually up to the customer to decide what they want. That being said, the most popular tiles these days are 12"x24" and plank tiles. You can make your own bullnose, or use some other kind of trim. again it all depends on the customer and what they want or what is available.
@@SalDiBlasi thanks man, you do great work. Also one more question. I know you're a busy man but you seem to be the only tile guy to trust and I was never trained, just told to go tile a bathroom. How do you feel about putting backer over the lip of premade shower pans. It never made sense to me because it makes your wall crooked. Better to sit it on top and float the bottom tile over the lip? As long as the void is filled? Keeps everything plumb right?
artist
Do you also slope the shelf? Also, how would you go about this with porcelain or something that doesn’t have a finished back?
Yes slope all shelves, you can use Bullnose, metal trim, pencil liner, chair rail or whatever else works to finish the edges, here is a video, czcams.com/video/VsYGqOqN_cw/video.html
Matt Skelly qa
Have you ever done one of these with the schluter metal trim?
Many times
@@SalDiBlasi do you have any videos on the Shluter trim install?
Merry Christmas
Pardon the rookie question, but why did you start the bottom row in the middle? Wouldn't it be easier to start from the corner and then measure and cut the curb tile when you got to it?
When you know your layout, it doesn't matter where you start as long as you stay straight square and level.
Mister sal ....much you we can charge for make aniche.more less
Sal what size of trowel are you using when you are troweling thinset onto the wall and back troweling thinset onto the back of the tile?
it depends on what size the tile is you use i do 8mm if tile is 10 inches
if tile is small and say 8 inches u use atleast 6 mm serrator
Is that top shelf supposed to be pitching also ?
yes
What did you use to polish
Link in the Cards czcams.com/video/bGWPfTqiaxI/video.html
How do you get your niches to line up with full tiles like that
Watch part 1 czcams.com/video/BYtgtD0VmdI/video.html
Use a tape measure!
got my walls ripped out. saw your video preparing walls with water proofing .now for tiling I see no waterproofing. what is the different condition pls?
Not sure what you are referring to, the walls in this video are Schluter Kerdi Board, a waterproof Foam board. Cement board is an entirely different system.
@@SalDiBlasi oops. thought I bought the best product to do my new shower walls. it was what the building supply recomended.
Hey Sal. What’s the difference between sanding sheets like the kind you’ve referenced in your videos and diamond polishing pads for stone?
The pads last longer and can usually polish harder materials, the sanding paper will only work on sofer material
Sal DiBlasi thanks Sal. For Marble should I go with sanding sheets then?
@@CGphotoOp That is what I like to use for marble, here are a couple of links amzn.to/2SnvL6F
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I've been told not to buy Pittsburgh levels. I see you using them from time to time. Any issues with them?
Check them before you buy one.
adam fee
place the long side of the level against any surface (for plumb/ up and down) and read it - a door jamb for example
Next take the opposite long side and place it against the surface. If it reads the same the level is at least straight.
If you drop it or use it to pry out your stuck vehicle then check it again
They're the same as over priced levels, just half the cost.
How long should we wait to knock off the leveling devices?? Can you wait TOO long??
Yes, always the next day, do not leave them in for days at a time.
My bad. Didn’t know. Thanks.
The edges of some of those tiles look like they have been cut by a wood chipper
OMG
why do the edges of the surrounding tiles look so beat up? i can see grouting might hide some of the defects, but still...
It is the tile design.
Hey sal i got a question for you, would you stack a 12x 24 tile
Sure, if that is what the customer wants, done it many time, no reason not to.
@@SalDiBlasi do you find the tile is different size, some longer than others and or shorter than others?
@@dustinscroggins3382 There will always be some slight variation in tile size, unless the tiles are rectified. However the Caliber of the tile (size) has to fall within certain tolerances, tiles are sorted at the factory by caliber, gauge, and dye lot. Cheap tiles will usually have a greater discrepancy and variation within a caliber than a more expensive tile. Also when buying tile at a box store, it is very important to match all the numbers on all the boxes to be sure to get all boxes that have matching Caliber, Gauge and dye lot, otherwise you will run into trouble.
Slow down bro? You're going to have a heart attack you keep that pace......... :)
Why not install the entire back piece of the niche? Why break it up?
follow the grout lines on the wall
Haircut.
I'm the first to comment ! You are not ! Ha! Ha!
Yes you are, twice in a row now.
@@SalDiBlasi Comrade Sal ! Your instructional videos are thoroughly enjoyed very much!! I hereby make you a citizen of the D.P.R.K !!
all i want too know is how does your bull nose make it the whole way to the back of the nitch..i lay tile for a living n never that lucky
Depend on the tile, some do some don't.
thats great too known..i get sub jobs n i always gotta grind 3/4 wide strip to cover the gap..n some tile now days just shatter trying too cut a little piece like that ...
@@jackfrost7471 he isn't using a bullnose inside the niche. It's just a cut and polished edge. You can miter the cuts instead for a crisp line. Then you can use scrap cuts for inside and not have any little Dinkie cuts or gaps.