It's the best video I have seen. Thank you for redoing your video and dumbing it down for people who need help understanding how to use a multimeter. So far, my 2000 EZGO PDS golf cart has yet to do anything. No sounds at all when turning on the key. I have replaced the controller twice, the key switch, and run the tow switch. I order all remaining micro switches, solenoids, and a new wiring harness, and I will replace them individually. But I want to watch this step-by-step video and not have to replace more than I need to. I hope to identify the problem. What happened was I put 2 12-volt chargers on 2 sets of batteries but did not remove any of the cables. I blew the fuse that was running from the frame to the ground. (32v 30amp). It has yet to run since.
@@raymondbower9754 what you did with the battery chargers is nothing wrong. You did good on that part. Make sure you have no wires hooked to the frame from the batteries!!!
@@HeyHeyHey97 So I removed that ground. Watching your new video, and after a New Controller, new solenoid, new run tow-switch, and here are the readings on it, the same as the one I replaced. Both reds are constant 39.9v red/white with little to no voltage, and the same is true with yellow, with a key on and in the run position. The key off red/white goes to 27v, and the key off yellow goes to .004v. I am so confused. Any ideas on which to replace next? I bought them all, I believe. I think it may be the wiring harness, do not know why I believe that, but mainly because I tested the resistors and micro switch independently, and they were all good, including the solenoid.
@@raymondbower9754 when you hit the gas. Does the blue wire on the solenoid show negative voltage. Red lead on main positive black lead on blue wire. Also what does the harness show as far as voltage on the 4 pin plug on the front bottom. Put black lead on main negative and red lead in these wires one at a time key on in forward.
@@HeyHeyHey97 Let me try to explain this again. I'm colorblind, so here is my description. The two wires on the right, top and bottom on the old and new switch, have constant voltage. The other two, no matter what, have little voltage. So, I wired the top two together, and the cart went forward. I wired the bottom two, and the cart went in reverse with a beeper sound. So, then I wired only the two hots (on the right side of the 4-pin run tow switch), and now, with the switch in the on position, all 4 have constant voltage at the controller, and the cart runs. Now I tried the above suggestion and no, the blue wire does not go into negative voltage.
My 36V EZGO TXT won't move. Solenoid won't click (just put a new on in). I tested everything you showed us and it all checks out good except for the white wire going to the ITS is only 4.6V, not 14V. Also the backup alarm is not working. I appreciate your videos. They are really helpful!
Four pin connector from the top green, red, black, white. The black pin needs to have power?? I have no power, solenoid clicks once, cart won't move, no voltage from pos to solenoid blue wire. Solenoid only clicks once per key cycle. I need to turn key off for it to click again when pressing throttle. Thoughts?
you have voltage on the yellow wire small post on the sol. Black lead on main negative. Of meter. Red lead of meter on small post solenoid yellow wire what do you get. Also the 4 pin plug your talking about what voltage do you have on white wire. .
My pds is running about 5mph I can hit the fwd rev switch while rolling or turn the key switch off and back on while rolling and it will drive like normal. I've replaced several thing pretty much everything but the motor
@@chadclm thanks for commenting. Hit that like and subscribe button for me. A common problem that causes the cart to run slow. Is a stuck solenoid. Or the tow switch is going bad. And only allowing 1/2 voltage. Motor wouldn’t cause it to run halve speed sometimes. I would say you’re loosing halve voltage somewhere. Or your solenoid is welded. Even though it clicks in and out. It could still be welded.
I'm having the same issue. I went through the entire troubleshooting and I have power in the correct locations. I have a brand new solenoid, batteries and computer I'm leaning towards possibly the motor is bad. But I'm not sure how to check it. Same cart in your video. I also get the ramp up in voltage on the A1 when pedal is applied.
Every thing on my cart checks out to your video except the very last test of the large wire with a green heat shrink, it will not creep up, it sits at 5 volts. Biggest wire upper right. Bad controller?
Wanted to just thankyou for how you explain as you go, you’re more helpful than I can describe. I was looking for a different answer but you answered it because of how you explain each part of the process. Again, thankyou..
Yea sir. Thanks for the words. I noticed when I do videos sometimes. I just assume everybody knows what’s bad. So this time I did a better explanation of what could be bad. Still new to you tube. Thanks for the words again I’ll make more videos like this. Hit that like and subscribe button for me.
@@HeyHeyHey97 Mine doesn't run. So I'm just going down a list of items to trouble shoot to find out what it is. I'm for sure it's not batteries and battery cables, but I'm going through all the checks you listed in the video to isolate the problem.
Wow, okay again. I can't thank you enough for the help. I removed the reed switch terminal from the Lester Summit II charger and connected it directly to the battery post. The run tow switch's voltage is the same when it is on, and #4 goes much lower when off. The bottom left 2 wires on the 10-pin are both 39.7v. The golf cart runs even with the old run/tow switch. I bet my original controller and solenoid are good, and I have been doing all this for 2 weeks now, and it was just that wire. Will that wire stay there permanently? Shame I cannot insert a photo here.
@@HeyHeyHey97 So CZcams removed my remark, I see. Anyway, the charger is just fine without that wire, and I put back all the old parts (controller, solenoid, and run/tow switch), and everything works better than expected. It is like I made a gear adjustment to make it go faster!
Great videos. Really helping me learn, but I still can’t figure out my problem. I tested all the voltages like you said, and they all tested as they should. But, when I test my M- and press down on the throttle, the voltages jump all over the place. And now my solenoid isn’t clicking unless I shut the key off and back on. Any ideas?
When the cart doesn’t run. Does all the voltages check good? If so replace controller. On m- you said it shows all over the place. What voltage do you get.
When the sol isn’t check your voltage on the it’s. The black and white wire going to the floorboard. And tell me what you get. Normally there’s several things that cause intermittent running. Harness, its in floorboard, solenoid or tow switch
Red wire on main positive and black wire on m- it shows .4v at the beginning and when I press down on gas the volt meter jumps all over the place 3 to 5 to 0 to 7 to 18 to 6.
Got an ez go txt that goes forward just fine. It hesitates and struggles to go in reverse. It starts very slowly until it can pick up speed. Is that a controller issue?
It's an 04 txt series 36 volt. Changed the controller and FNR and magnetic switch in floorboard. Will go forward just fine, but struggles alot going in reverse
It's not the half speed for reverse. It barely moves, and once it gets going, it will go. I've never encountered something like this. It's almost as if there's plenty of power to go forward, but it can't draw enough power to get going in reverse
I have a two seater that we converted to a 4 seater. I added stronger leaf springs as well but it does not have a true "lift kit" installed. I recently put 6 brand new powertron golf cart batteries. When the batteries are fully charged, with a max weight of less than 500 pounds of people, the cart is getting a max range of 10 miles per fully charged. The batteries are less than 3 months old, and we were getting a lot longer distance with the older batteries. Do I have a bad battery, do I have a failing motor, suggestions? The cart also feels it has a short in it and will "beep" 3 times and stop running. You will have to release the pedal and reengage for it to go again. The startup acceleration is poor also. I checked each battery 24+ hours post a “full” charge. 5 of the 6 showed 6.4 while one showed 6.1. I checked again while charging and the 5 of 6 showed 7.4 but the other one showed 6.8. Any thoughts?
The 3 beep is a bad connection somewhere. Or weak battery voltage. When the cart quits that’s when you check voltage. Hold your foot in the brake and the gas and test each battery like that. Make sure all your wires are tight. And make sure all your connections are good.
Also. Make sure you have voltage in all 4 wires from tow switch plus make sure on the main harness that you have voltage on the 2 red wires on the bottom left For these test put volt meter dc 200 keep black lead on main negative all the time during the test.
I have battery voltage on all 4 wires at the tow switch and on the 2 red wires on the 10 pin plug just nothing at the white wire and white and yellow wire. Are you talking about running a jumper to the yellow wire on the solenoid?
@@meymey35 that’s right then. Then the controller send battery voltage out the white wire to the key switch. Could be a bad controller. But tell me what happens when you run that jumper wire.
This is a great video for somebody who is looking to troubleshoot their cart. Straight and to the point, no BS. Thank you.
Yes sir thanks for the comment. 👊
It's the best video I have seen. Thank you for redoing your video and dumbing it down for people who need help understanding how to use a multimeter. So far, my 2000 EZGO PDS golf cart has yet to do anything. No sounds at all when turning on the key. I have replaced the controller twice, the key switch, and run the tow switch. I order all remaining micro switches, solenoids, and a new wiring harness, and I will replace them individually. But I want to watch this step-by-step video and not have to replace more than I need to. I hope to identify the problem.
What happened was I put 2 12-volt chargers on 2 sets of batteries but did not remove any of the cables. I blew the fuse that was running from the frame to the ground. (32v 30amp). It has yet to run since.
@@raymondbower9754 you should never have a wire running from your batteries to your frame. EVER!!!!!
@@raymondbower9754 what you did with the battery chargers is nothing wrong. You did good on that part. Make sure you have no wires hooked to the frame from the batteries!!!
@@HeyHeyHey97 So I removed that ground.
Watching your new video, and after a New Controller, new solenoid, new run tow-switch, and here are the readings on it, the same as the one I replaced. Both reds are constant 39.9v red/white with little to no voltage, and the same is true with yellow, with a key on and in the run position. The key off red/white goes to 27v, and the key off yellow goes to .004v. I am so confused. Any ideas on which to replace next? I bought them all, I believe. I think it may be the wiring harness, do not know why I believe that, but mainly because I tested the resistors and micro switch independently, and they were all good, including the solenoid.
@@raymondbower9754 when you hit the gas. Does the blue wire on the solenoid show negative voltage. Red lead on main positive black lead on blue wire. Also what does the harness show as far as voltage on the 4 pin plug on the front bottom. Put black lead on main negative and red lead in these wires one at a time key on in forward.
@@HeyHeyHey97 Let me try to explain this again. I'm colorblind, so here is my description. The two wires on the right, top and bottom on the old and new switch, have constant voltage. The other two, no matter what, have little voltage. So, I wired the top two together, and the cart went forward. I wired the bottom two, and the cart went in reverse with a beeper sound. So, then I wired only the two hots (on the right side of the 4-pin run tow switch), and now, with the switch in the on position, all 4 have constant voltage at the controller, and the cart runs. Now I tried the above suggestion and no, the blue wire does not go into negative voltage.
My 36V EZGO TXT won't move. Solenoid won't click (just put a new on in). I tested everything you showed us and it all checks out good except for the white wire going to the ITS is only 4.6V, not 14V. Also the backup alarm is not working. I appreciate your videos. They are really helpful!
@@chriseaton8453 what’s the black wire show going to the its
@@HeyHeyHey97 0.37v and 0.78v with the petal on the floor.
If All voltages check right beside. The it’s. Replace controller
Thank you for taking the time to respond and sharing info with the rest of us.
@@hashtagjustadad5110 yes sir. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hit like and subscribe for me.
@@HeyHeyHey97 you earned a sub!
Thank you sir. If you ever have any questions. Feel free to ask
Great job man you really know that wiring💪
@@stevenakn1 thanks man
Four pin connector from the top green, red, black, white. The black pin needs to have power?? I have no power, solenoid clicks once, cart won't move, no voltage from pos to solenoid blue wire. Solenoid only clicks once per key cycle. I need to turn key off for it to click again when pressing throttle. Thoughts?
you have voltage on the yellow wire small post on the sol. Black lead on main negative. Of meter. Red lead of meter on small post solenoid yellow wire what do you get. Also the 4 pin plug your talking about what voltage do you have on white wire. .
My pds is running about 5mph I can hit the fwd rev switch while rolling or turn the key switch off and back on while rolling and it will drive like normal. I've replaced several thing pretty much everything but the motor
Replaced the speed sensor controller both twice. Fwd rev switch key and the throttle sensor under the mat
@@chadclm thanks for commenting. Hit that like and subscribe button for me. A common problem that causes the cart to run slow. Is a stuck solenoid. Or the tow switch is going bad. And only allowing 1/2 voltage. Motor wouldn’t cause it to run halve speed sometimes. I would say you’re loosing halve voltage somewhere. Or your solenoid is welded. Even though it clicks in and out. It could still be welded.
I'm having the same issue. I went through the entire troubleshooting and I have power in the correct locations. I have a brand new solenoid, batteries and computer I'm leaning towards possibly the motor is bad. But I'm not sure how to check it. Same cart in your video. I also get the ramp up in voltage on the A1 when pedal is applied.
Okay then every thing is doing its job. Does your solenoid click in when press the gas. And then stayed engaged until you let go of the gas.
Every thing on my cart checks out to your video except the very last test of the large wire with a green heat shrink, it will not creep up, it sits at 5 volts. Biggest wire upper right.
Bad controller?
@@richardbingel1575 yes if all other voltages check out right. And the solenoid is clicking and showing voltage going across it.
Wanted to just thankyou for how you explain as you go, you’re more helpful than I can describe. I was looking for a different answer but you answered it because of how you explain each part of the process. Again, thankyou..
Yea sir. Thanks for the words. I noticed when I do videos sometimes. I just assume everybody knows what’s bad. So this time I did a better explanation of what could be bad. Still new to you tube. Thanks for the words again I’ll make more videos like this. Hit that like and subscribe button for me.
Amazing video, thank you
Ty sir. Hit that like and subscribe button for me
Thank you for the video! If my M negative is reading voltage before I apply the accelerator what does that mean?
@@halmclelland667 nothing it’s just dead voltage.
@@halmclelland667 what problem are you having
@@HeyHeyHey97 Mine doesn't run. So I'm just going down a list of items to trouble shoot to find out what it is. I'm for sure it's not batteries and battery cables, but I'm going through all the checks you listed in the video to isolate the problem.
Gotcha. If need any help let me know
20% of the time I'm right, everytime.
~ Controller. 😂
Thanks for answering
Wow, okay again. I can't thank you enough for the help. I removed the reed switch terminal from the Lester Summit II charger and connected it directly to the battery post. The run tow switch's voltage is the same when it is on, and #4 goes much lower when off. The bottom left 2 wires on the 10-pin are both 39.7v. The golf cart runs even with the old run/tow switch. I bet my original controller and solenoid are good, and I have been doing all this for 2 weeks now, and it was just that wire. Will that wire stay there permanently? Shame I cannot insert a photo here.
Yes the wire will stay there permanently. Np man. Glad we got it fixed. Does the charger still work?
I didn’t think to check that. Will do here in a while.
@@HeyHeyHey97 So CZcams removed my remark, I see. Anyway, the charger is just fine without that wire, and I put back all the old parts (controller, solenoid, and run/tow switch), and everything works better than expected. It is like I made a gear adjustment to make it go faster!
@@raymondbower9754 lol. That’s good I would just leave it like that then
Great videos. Really helping me learn, but I still can’t figure out my problem. I tested all the voltages like you said, and they all tested as they should. But, when I test my M- and press down on the throttle, the voltages jump all over the place. And now my solenoid isn’t clicking unless I shut the key off and back on. Any ideas?
36v ezgo pds
I replaced the controller, but that didn’t solve it.
When the cart doesn’t run. Does all the voltages check good? If so replace controller. On m- you said it shows all over the place. What voltage do you get.
When the sol isn’t check your voltage on the it’s. The black and white wire going to the floorboard. And tell me what you get. Normally there’s several things that cause intermittent running. Harness, its in floorboard, solenoid or tow switch
Red wire on main positive and black wire on m- it shows .4v at the beginning and when I press down on gas the volt meter jumps all over the place 3 to 5 to 0 to 7 to 18 to 6.
Thanks buddy
Yes sir hit that like and subscribe. Button for me. I post 2. New Videos a week
Got an ez go txt that goes forward just fine. It hesitates and struggles to go in reverse. It starts very slowly until it can pick up speed. Is that a controller issue?
Is it a series or pds
If it’s a pds or dcs if so replace controller. If it’s a series replace f n r board
It's an 04 txt series 36 volt. Changed the controller and FNR and magnetic switch in floorboard. Will go forward just fine, but struggles alot going in reverse
When you say struggle you mean only runs halve speed. If so unhook the orange wire off the f n r board. That’s 1/2 speed in reverse
It's not the half speed for reverse. It barely moves, and once it gets going, it will go. I've never encountered something like this. It's almost as if there's plenty of power to go forward, but it can't draw enough power to get going in reverse
Should that little red wire from the back of the charger be 36 volts?
Yes, to bypass it cut it. Then, hook the main harness side straight to the main positive battery.
Also on the run/tow switch. I’ve got 36 volts on the top two wires and only 12 volts on the bottom two?
Run you a wire from the main positive on batteries to the small post on solenoid that has the yellow wire and tell me if it runs
@@jojizzle318 test #2also flip the tow switch to tow what do the tow switch wires show for voltage
@@HeyHeyHey97 I’m gonna try this tomorrow when I get home from work and I’ll let you know
I have a e zgo 36vots all the time on the motor terminal
Thanks for commenting. Is it dead voltage. Also what kind series or pds
When the key is off I get a 36v reading on the motor
@@RaymondLow-y8o is your a pds or series
@@HeyHeyHey97 iam out of town will get back to you later
@@RaymondLow-y8o yes sir just let me know
I have a two seater that we converted to a 4 seater. I added stronger leaf springs as well but it does not have a true "lift kit" installed. I recently put 6 brand new powertron golf cart batteries. When the batteries are fully charged, with a max weight of less than 500 pounds of people, the cart is getting a max range of 10 miles per fully charged. The batteries are less than 3 months old, and we were getting a lot longer distance with the older batteries. Do I have a bad battery, do I have a failing motor, suggestions? The cart also feels it has a short in it and will "beep" 3 times and stop running. You will have to release the pedal and reengage for it to go again. The startup acceleration is poor also.
I checked each battery 24+ hours post a “full” charge. 5 of the 6 showed 6.4 while one showed 6.1. I checked again while charging and the 5 of 6 showed 7.4 but the other one showed 6.8.
Any thoughts?
What type of cart do you have 36 or 48. Sounds like you have a 36 volt
@@HeyHeyHey97 Yes it is a 36 V.
The 3 beep is a bad connection somewhere. Or weak battery voltage. When the cart quits that’s when you check voltage. Hold your foot in the brake and the gas and test each battery like that. Make sure all your wires are tight. And make sure all your connections are good.
What if you don’t have voltage on the white wire going to the ignition switch
That comes from the controller. Run you a jumper wire from the main positive to the small post yellow wire.
Also. Make sure you have voltage in all 4 wires from tow switch plus make sure on the main harness that you have voltage on the 2 red wires on the bottom left For these test put volt meter dc 200 keep black lead on main negative all the time during the test.
I have battery voltage on all 4 wires at the tow switch and on the 2 red wires on the 10 pin plug just nothing at the white wire and white and yellow wire. Are you talking about running a jumper to the yellow wire on the solenoid?
@@meymey35 yes off the main positive
@@meymey35 that’s right then. Then the controller send battery voltage out the white wire to the key switch. Could be a bad controller. But tell me what happens when you run that jumper wire.