How to Install Intake Manifold - Rebuild the 289 Ford - Part 19
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2023
- Today at Alf's Mustang Garage we are continuing on our 289 engine rebuild by installing the intake manifold.
The book I recommend you buy for your build. You will not get all the information there is to know from watching these videos. This book will help guide you through everything. www.npdlink.com/product/book-...
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Alf's Mustang Garage is not responsible for any mechanical or technical error that you may encounter when working on your own car. You are responsible for your own quality control and your own proper repairs. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
...aluminum or cast...old timer's trick is to take 5/16x18 bolts, 4-6" long...cut the heads off & hand tighten them into the block, to use as "guides" to lower the intake on both squarely & evenly, to avoid shifting gaskets &/or sealant...JMO.
That’s exactly what I’m doing on my 65 mustang 289 and the engine is still in the car so it really helps with installation especially if you’re reusing the cast iron manifold… those suckers have a little weight to them
@@chuckfiscus9044 Also I slotted the studs for easy removal with a screwdriver
Do you go back and clean the booger of gasket sealant off the front by the distributor at least? 😆
I just discovered your channel and I really like how you break it down on everything your working on. I'm 56yrs old and have been busy with cars my whole life but now just started building a 63 falcon sprint and learning ford's. Thank you for your videos and experience. Enjoy your videos, keep up the good work.
Thank you very much! Good luck on your Falcon! Sounds like an awesome project.
Love your engine rebuilding videos. When I install my intake, I use four headless bolts or studs that I screw into the heads near the corners and then I lower the intake over the studs which help align the intake to the heads and block.
That's a very good idea. I can see that would be very useful when installing an intake with the engine still in the car. Especially on a cast iron intake!
Yep grade 8 studs on the corners. I use the driver side front stub to mount my coil onto, also. Not a 289 but a 460 bbf.
Good video. I agree with torque sequence and did the finger tighten with light run through with the ratchet. However the Permatex instructions said "Let dry for one hour then tighten to torque specifications." Did I miss this part of your instruction?
Almost getting to the specs of the matter! Nice job on the rebuild!
Thank you!
Great Job. inspiring me to eventually re build my 289 even though it {looks} like it has been done before.
Thank you! Well if she is running great, let her run.
Good Stuff there Mr Alex! But, I am going to have to report you to the FelPro police for using RTV on their gaskets! lol I did mine almost identical to yours except with stainless ARP bolts and 4 grade 8 studs on the corners. Oh, coffee filters are great for cleaning surfaces and no lint. FYI cheap too. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from Michigan.
🤣🤣🤣 thanks Robert! I would have never thought of coffee filters. Not a bad idea.
Great video. Question I have a aftermarket intake for my 65. The back two water passages are open my original has been blocked. Do I need a special gasket or how do I block them. Not sure what to do. Thanks
Paul
Alex, could you drop a link on the RTV dispenser setup you used please. Your RTV beads look like you were stacking dimes. Very cool. Thanks Bob
I think that is a Milwaukee battle powered deal. Works nice!
@@AlfsMustangGarage I got the Milwaukee nut driver, would that attach some how? Thanks
Humm I don't think so. I'll have to find it and send a link.
@@AlfsMustangGarage No worries, I will do some research and figure it out Alex. Thanks for your time.
I definitely understand feeling it, when it comes to bolt torque. Weiand intake instructions say to go to 25 on the middle 8 and there's no way. At 22 the manifold creaked at me. Decided right there that 22 was more than fine.
Yup thats the truth! I like to know what the spec is but my feel an intuition often overrules.
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Hi I am about todo this same job for first time on a 289. I see at time 7:13 you only did sealant on one water port (cyl 1&5). Why did you NOT put sealant on rear second water port (cyl 4&8). I looked in my edelbrock perfomer RPM inlet manifold - and on cyclender heads - water definatley flows front (cyl 1&5) and rear ports (4&8). Why no sealant in the center port - what is the purpose of this port? Great video - hope you can answer my questions - was going to tackle this job tomorrow.
I added sealant to the cylinder head side of the gasket only. Because coolant flows TO the intake but the intake port is closed off there so coolant does not flow through. Perhaps some intakes do allow coolant to flow through but on this intake, coolant only flows through the front port and not the rear.
Gracias
Man I followed this guide to a T and finally dropped the engine in a couple weeks ago and added coolant today. Weeping at the corners. *Sigh*.
Oh really? That sucks, I'm sorry. Freaking water will find a way, I swear.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Looking as close as I can, I can see a pinhole sized gap at one corner. Thinking maybe I nicked the gasketmaker that had squished out during the engine install and it pulled some out.
I built the engine alone, I put it in the car alone, but thankfully a friend is coming over tomorrow to help me redo the manifold. Less chance of spillage into the cylinders.
Can you recommend a good gasket for a 92ish roller block with E7 heads? None of the recommended FelPros for that engine have printoseal.
Damn I must be a lameo, I always use the cork gaskets and never use any of that red stuff
Hey Al I’m gonna install a 4 barrow in my 289/302 I wanted to know what carburetor would you recommend also are using a battery press gun for the silicone
Yes that is a battery operated caulking gun. I won't be able to provide carburetor advise without knowing the specific details of your engine and geographical location.
@@AlfsMustangGaragethank you soo much I’m still wonder I can’t tell what this person did to this engine
How can I tell what kind of engine is it?
Well knowing what kind of engine it is is one thing. Knowing what it's built with is another. Cam stock? Bore stock? Those sorts of details. But the casting numbers on the bottom under the starter motor will help you decode the year and if it's a 289 or 302.
How much is it to rebuild a 289 ?
That mostly depends on you. You can range from $4,000 all the way to $10,000 just depends on what you want.
I just bought A 71' Torino The guy before me started Beefing it up. And was having trouble remembering what all he did. So i'm playing detective. So far, I know it has an assault high-rise intake. Edelbrock 1406 carb, duel cold air intake, hooker headers.I've been trying to figure out why the block is 289 And my heads are 302. I see, the heads here are 351. Why do people do this what is the benefit? why not use a 351 block or 302 block For the actual heads that match? I'm trying to understand but this is the first video i've even seen it happened like mine is. I keep running into dead ends. if somebody could set me straight I would greatly appreciate it.