I mask off my rails then push the silicone into the gap. Pull tape off and no leaks... no mess. But still miss old cork gasket look. My mustang I silicone the cork in but was a pain make it look good
Placing the intake has been the most difficult part of my builds. Edelbrock F427 intakes require modification to make them seal. Poor quality control. Their alignment makes it difficult to drop in the distributer. Changed to a Blue Thunder intake and all the problems went away.
Fun fact. I once had a Ford performance factory book that showed you all Datem measurements for any machining match calculation I.e. deck block 0.050” machine manifold valley by x, machine intake port surface by x, etc. Covered FE. Small block and 351 Windsor engines. Has anyone else ever seen this Ford performance book. It was more like a magazine. ? Regards Ken.
Mocking these up for installation is much more difficult with cast iron intake manifolds! I think they are about 100 # . Especially difficult in the vehicle.
You may have covered this before. Why did you want the rotor facing the rear of the engine instead of cylinder 1? Also, how does the clear silicone hold up compared to using something like Right Stuff?
Right stuff can be porous. I don’t like it. Rotor needs to point at #1 terminal when pointer is pointed at advance spot on balancer, but it’s usually toward the rear on a Ford.
I'm curious too. Clear is usually the lowest grade and these days the stiff set light gray is the best performing in gasketless sealing. I'm curious if this is something out of the norm in RTV biz.
I read somewhere all silicone is the same temperature resistant so I would say normal clear silicone should be fine. It’s a motor. Is that hot to destroy your silicone? We have other issues.😅
50+ years later, the tunnel wedge intake impresses and looks the business.
Ultra grey for the China walls is my go to.
That’s the most precise intake sealing video I have ever seen in a bonus, it was on a super rare racing intake very interesting indeed
Glad to see you say to install distributor before tightening down intake bolts
I mask off my rails then push the silicone into the gap. Pull tape off and no leaks... no mess. But still miss old cork gasket look. My mustang I silicone the cork in but was a pain make it look good
Placing the intake has been the most difficult part of my builds. Edelbrock F427 intakes require modification to make them seal. Poor quality control. Their alignment makes it difficult to drop in the distributer. Changed to a Blue Thunder intake and all the problems went away.
Fun fact.
I once had a Ford performance factory book that showed you all Datem measurements for any machining match calculation I.e. deck block 0.050” machine manifold valley by x, machine intake port surface by x, etc.
Covered FE. Small block and 351 Windsor engines.
Has anyone else ever seen this Ford performance book. It was more like a magazine. ?
Regards Ken.
Good info Brent, bought a t shirt today too.
What type - brand of silicone ?
wish you would lay an intake on with before fit to point the problem areas!to be corrected & how...
Mocking these up for installation is much more difficult with cast iron intake manifolds! I think they are about 100 # . Especially difficult in the vehicle.
by your self is not really doable for sure.
What is that big hole at the back of the intake used for?. It has 2 bolts to hold cover down.
Would like to see this one with a lot more compression
could you tell me the name of the company for a full set of gasket to suit 427 tunnel port please
what...why did you ..skip..valleypan install?
You may have covered this before. Why did you want the rotor facing the rear of the engine instead of cylinder 1? Also, how does the clear silicone hold up compared to using something like Right Stuff?
Right stuff can be porous. I don’t like it. Rotor needs to point at #1 terminal when pointer is pointed at advance spot on balancer, but it’s usually toward the rear on a Ford.
Where are you located at
502 area code - he’s a Kentucky Guy:)
what sealant is that?
I'm curious too. Clear is usually the lowest grade and these days the stiff set light gray is the best performing in gasketless sealing. I'm curious if this is something out of the norm in RTV biz.
I read somewhere all silicone is the same temperature resistant so I would say normal clear silicone should be fine. It’s a motor. Is that hot to destroy your silicone? We have other issues.😅
You are a Sigma male for sure ..