What I love about this is that special tools aren't required to precisely align stands after long-term use, and you share the exact methods for adjusting everything. Some manufacturers wouldn't do this for fear that customers would think their tools are poorly-made. Reality is that with shop use things are going to go out of whack, so you need to calibrate regularly. Having this guide means you can safely buy a used stand and get it back to spec, or repair your own stand, which means it will likely outlast you.
Calvin is the man. Park Tool is the company. This has been on my wishlist for a while. I keep coming back to this video like a kid windowshopping a candystore.
I must say i have watched numerus video's you have done , and you present each one perfectly . I find you easy to follow and you take the time to explain in detail . thank you for yet another cracking video. Gerald South wales UK
Centering could be affected by your hub's condition as well as how its rotationally positioned in the stand. As explained in the video this is due to the hub's concentricity. I was satisfied with how my TS-4.2 came calibrated, since after I dished a re-laced wheel with the WAG-4, it was perfectly centered when I placed it in the truing stand. If desired, the calipers can also facilitate both lateral and radial truing at the same time. One reason I chose the TS-4.2 was because it didn't require the purchase of a separate thru-axle adapter. Another reason was that I wanted to accommodate 29 x 3 tubeless mountain bike tires. If my truing stand ever requires centering I'll know where to go. Thanks for the video Calvin!
This video is Super helpful, I just got a truing stand and it seemed well off Centre? I couldn't find any information on whether you're supposed to calibrate them or even if you can't, I spent a couple of hours trying to get it right. This video will be really helpful to check if I did. Thank you guys.
Nothing beats a good Park Tool video. these guys are pros! I have the original Park Truing stand and unless through axles take over, I'll be using that for another few decades or so. :)
Great video, and works well to explain how to calibrate a TS-2.2 as well. My TS-2.2 came new w-a-y out of alignment and I was at a loss what to do until finding this vid.
Why use the calipers in the 'tire on" position when you are working with the tire off? You can get a much clearer sense of lateral and radial true simultaneously when the calipers are in the tire off position. Allows for much faster trueing.
totally not going to try this on my wheels but I now I know some more talking points at the LBS. most shops I have seen truing services but they always say laterally and not anything about radial and or that dishing tool centering thing..wow
The process of: lateral Tru, radial tru, and proper dish....is the process the same for carbon and aluminium? Thanks. And I want to tell you all how much I enjoy your tools and channel.
On my TS2 I always calibrate on each wheel I true, front vs. rear will usually require small adjustment (the treads on the adjusting knobs aren't really perfect). It is easy once you've done a few times, and is far easier than using wheel dishing tool (totally unnecessary). Knowledge of trigonometry is a good thing.
Would this be compatible with a rear hub motor wheel got an ebike? I'm not sure I can fit my 14mm axle in that triangular notch. I plan to use the stand for testing the motor. I don't want it to fly out of the stand.
Ciao, è possibile fare un video in italiano per capire come centrare in maniera ottimale il TS 4. Io non ci riesco ho provato con diverse ruote campanate . Ho fatto mille prove come nel video sembra che tutto vada per il verso giusto poi provo con un'altra ruota e mi ritrovo punto di partenza. Sicuramente Sono Le due asse a creare dei problemi che in teoria dovrebbero muoversi simultaneamente....Grazie Leonardo ....
I wish there was a way to put chalk/ink/marker on those Caliper Caps (18) so that they would mark the rim when it hits then you would know exactly where to tighten the spokes on the opposite side of the rim.
Well, maybe you can put some ink that can be easily removed on the rim around the point where a caliper cap hits the rim. The mark that the caliper cap will make in the ink will then allow you to know exactly where to tighten the spokes.
My TS-2 centres perfectly on a 127mm 7 speed wheel, but has a dishing error on anything with a smaller or bigger OLD, even after careful calibration. I hope this design upgrade has fixed this (historical design?) error, as it's quite annoying.
Like the video states, the best dishing tool is a dishing gauge. The TS-4 does hold a nice center, but no matter the model the dishing tool will always be the most accurate.
That is true, you are. However, we count on that being the most reliable and accurate way to get round. If you want a real challenge but one that does makes some sense, leave the tire on and true to the outside of the tire. Tires are not molded exactly even or round. It will certainly give us a challenge to true this way, plus when the tire wears out, you get to start all over again.
The wheel could be radially and laterally true but still be out of dish. The truing stand gives a good idea of how well the wheel is dished but is not a replacement for a dishing tool. If you have a rear wheel and you build it with equal length spokes drive side and non drive side you can easily radially true and laterally true the wheel but it will never be in dish. It will always be spaced to the non drive side. In this scenario the stand would tell you that you are out of dish significantly but to be able to fine tune dish it is good to use a dedicated dishing tool. Hope this helps!
I had deducted (I'm not at all a bike technician) what "radially and laterally true" means, but after your explaination still don't know what "out-of-dish" is.
Incorrect dish means the overall wheel is not centered about the hub properly. As Calvin correctly said you could have a wheel that is perfect radially and laterally true, but is say 5mm's too far to the left with respect to the hub overall. If you put such a wheel in your bike frame you would be able to visibly see that the wheel is not centered in the frame between the stays correctly. It would either be too far to the left or right, that is an incorrectly dished wheel.
I recently got knocked sideways by child bike into my front AC Aero wheel, and noticed immediately that rim was untrue with little dent just below breaking surface on that spot- since then I tried multiple times to true wheel, on truing sets, with spoke tensions, hot water over that spot, etc, but with very limited success. During ride, while breaking with front brakes, I always feel irregular drag while brake pad touches that spot, especially in moving downwards, with bigger weight disposition on front wheel... Is it possible to somehow solve this? Thanks.
A dent in a rim can be hard to fix. Trying to repair the dent often causes more structural damage than the initial dent. The closer the damage to the outside diameter the easier it will be to potentially fix it though. The fix usually would consist of using some wood and a hammer. This is not suggested though as it can make the wheel unsafe to ride.
@@parktool Thanks for opinion. I think I flattened a dent in optimal degree (with wooden surface and pliers) that braking don't cause much dragging like before. I tried in 57km drive yesterday, it's really better... I appreciate your opinion, really.
When I screw/unnscrew the main shaft, only one arm moves until a certain point, then both start moving. The wheel is very off-centered. Any tips? Cheers
The two collars on the main shaft are most likely not tight up against the weldment. if you follow the instructions laid out in this video you should be centered and your uprights should be move equally together. Because of the many moving pieces and adjustability of this stand there is going to be a small amount of play, typically from the play between the trunnion threads and the main shaft threads. It is crucial that the marks in the holes be centered and that the upright be centered in the weldment. I hope this helps. If you continue to have issues don't hesitate to contact us so we can walk you through further steps.
Ciao, è possibile fare un video in italiano per capire come centrare in maniera ottimale il TS 4. Io non ci riesco ho provato con diverse ruote campanate . Ho fatto mille prove come nel video sembra che tutto vada per il verso giusto poi provo con un'altra ruota e mi ritrovo punto di partenza. Sicuramente Sono Le due asse a creare dei problemi che in teoria dovrebbero muoversi simultaneamente....Grazie Leonardo simultaneamente e dei
Why not use their own tool for setting the arms and calipers ?? The catalog says "The 1554-1 represents a dished rear wheel to assist in centering the TS-2.2 or TS-2 truing stand."
Unfortunately there is no predictable, repeatable way to true mag wheels. There are myths out there about using thermal dynamics and temperature swings to coax the wheel back to true.... but they are, Myths.
I have the original truing stand and dishing tool i have to say, i'm a Park Tool fan. Plus they look nice all together in the workshop. :) Great videos too! Everything is top notch!
Loads of bike shops will secure their truing stands to a piece of wood because they already have a bench at the proper working height at which they like to work and the proper angle so there is no need for a tilting base. My TS-4 is through bolted to a rectangular piece of wood just as Calvin did in this example.
im really REALLY sorry, i love you guys so much but im cringing at the grease, you dont need that much, and all of the left over is just gunna seep out and just look awful
There are a few possibilities in wrench sizing. The idea is to use the smallest size that fits snug, so it will properly tighten. The SW-0 (with the black handle) is the smallest (3.2mm), and common on better quality wheels. A large size also fairly common is the red handled SW-2 (3.45mm). You see this use on medium to lower end bikes. However, if you can get to a good shop, they should stock the right size and get you the correct size wrench.
What I love about this is that special tools aren't required to precisely align stands after long-term use, and you share the exact methods for adjusting everything. Some manufacturers wouldn't do this for fear that customers would think their tools are poorly-made. Reality is that with shop use things are going to go out of whack, so you need to calibrate regularly. Having this guide means you can safely buy a used stand and get it back to spec, or repair your own stand, which means it will likely outlast you.
Sign of a true professional tool and company behind it.
Calvin is the man. Park Tool is the company. This has been on my wishlist for a while. I keep coming back to this video like a kid windowshopping a candystore.
I must say i have watched numerus video's you have done , and you present each one perfectly . I find you easy to follow and you take the time to explain in detail . thank you for yet another cracking video. Gerald South wales UK
A real professional, sorry this is not in our city. SUCH PEOPLE ARE LIKE GOLD.
Unbelievably smart mechanic! Great explanation. Thank you!
Centering could be affected by your hub's condition as well as how its rotationally positioned in the stand. As explained in the video this is due to the hub's concentricity. I was satisfied with how my TS-4.2 came calibrated, since after I dished a re-laced wheel with the WAG-4, it was perfectly centered when I placed it in the truing stand. If desired, the calipers can also facilitate both lateral and radial truing at the same time. One reason I chose the TS-4.2 was because it didn't require the purchase of a separate thru-axle adapter. Another reason was that I wanted to accommodate 29 x 3 tubeless mountain bike tires. If my truing stand ever requires centering I'll know where to go. Thanks for the video Calvin!
This video is Super helpful, I just got a truing stand and it seemed well off Centre? I couldn't find any information on whether you're supposed to calibrate them or even if you can't, I spent a couple of hours trying to get it right. This video will be really helpful to check if I did. Thank you guys.
Nothing beats a good Park Tool video. these guys are pros! I have the original Park Truing stand and unless through axles take over, I'll be using that for another few decades or so. :)
Great video, and works well to explain how to calibrate a TS-2.2 as well. My TS-2.2 came new w-a-y out of alignment and I was at a loss what to do until finding this vid.
Thank you for this super useful video and explanation for curing any problems in setup. 🤔👍👏🏻
very grateful for this
I desperately need to get one for the workshop, nothing else really compares to having an actual truing stand to work with.
Why use the calipers in the 'tire on" position when you are working with the tire off? You can get a much clearer sense of lateral and radial true simultaneously when the calipers are in the tire off position. Allows for much faster trueing.
Badass video.
totally not going to try this on my wheels but I now I know some more talking points at the LBS. most shops I have seen truing services but they always say laterally and not anything about radial and or that dishing tool centering thing..wow
The process of: lateral Tru, radial tru, and proper dish....is the process the same for carbon and aluminium?
Thanks. And I want to tell you all how much I enjoy your tools and channel.
Yes, the process is the same regardless of material.
Классный инструмент. Только дорогой.
Great Stand!
On my TS2 I always calibrate on each wheel I true, front vs. rear will usually require small adjustment (the treads on the adjusting knobs aren't really perfect). It is easy once you've done a few times, and is far easier than using wheel dishing tool (totally unnecessary). Knowledge of trigonometry is a good thing.
hi there, I have a park tool ts- 2 truing stand. could you make a video how to properly center it? I would appreciate it. Thank you.
Would this be compatible with a rear hub motor wheel got an ebike? I'm not sure I can fit my 14mm axle in that triangular notch. I plan to use the stand for testing the motor. I don't want it to fly out of the stand.
Great new design
Finally the Park Tool comany make this video.
Ciao, è possibile fare un video in italiano per capire come centrare in maniera ottimale il TS 4. Io non ci riesco ho provato con diverse ruote campanate . Ho fatto mille prove come nel video sembra che tutto vada per il verso giusto poi provo con un'altra ruota e mi ritrovo punto di partenza. Sicuramente Sono Le due asse a creare dei problemi che in teoria dovrebbero muoversi simultaneamente....Grazie Leonardo ....
Great video !
Wow, that's nice. Now how much is it? Discontinued?
The TS-4 was discontinued about two years ago, replaced by the TS-4.2
Website says ts 2di can be mounted to ts 4 but mentions flat caliper plate; any information on this part: flat caliper plate.
I wish there was a way to put chalk/ink/marker on those Caliper Caps (18) so that they would mark the rim when it hits then you would know exactly where to tighten the spokes on the opposite side of the rim.
Well, maybe you can put some ink that can be easily removed on the rim around the point where a caliper cap hits the rim. The mark that the caliper cap will make in the ink will then allow you to know exactly where to tighten the spokes.
My TS-2 centres perfectly on a 127mm 7 speed wheel, but has a dishing error on anything with a smaller or bigger OLD, even after careful calibration. I hope this design upgrade has fixed this (historical design?) error, as it's quite annoying.
Like the video states, the best dishing tool is a dishing gauge. The TS-4 does hold a nice center, but no matter the model the dishing tool will always be the most accurate.
Thank you!
I have a question about radial trueness. If we radially true a wheel that way, are we really radially truing the bead surface on the rim?
That is true, you are. However, we count on that being the most reliable and accurate way to get round. If you want a real challenge but one that does makes some sense, leave the tire on and true to the outside of the tire. Tires are not molded exactly even or round. It will certainly give us a challenge to true this way, plus when the tire wears out, you get to start all over again.
@@parktool interesting idea!
After laterally and radially adjusting the wheel, why would you still need the dishing tool? Isn't the wheel completely balanced by then?
The wheel could be radially and laterally true but still be out of dish. The truing stand gives a good idea of how well the wheel is dished but is not a replacement for a dishing tool. If you have a rear wheel and you build it with equal length spokes drive side and non drive side you can easily radially true and laterally true the wheel but it will never be in dish. It will always be spaced to the non drive side. In this scenario the stand would tell you that you are out of dish significantly but to be able to fine tune dish it is good to use a dedicated dishing tool. Hope this helps!
I had deducted (I'm not at all a bike technician) what "radially and laterally true" means, but after your explaination still don't know what "out-of-dish" is.
Dish is how centered the rim is over the hub. Here is a good article on it and how to do it. www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/wheel-dishing-centering
Incorrect dish means the overall wheel is not centered about the hub properly. As Calvin correctly said you could have a wheel that is perfect radially and laterally true, but is say 5mm's too far to the left with respect to the hub overall. If you put such a wheel in your bike frame you would be able to visibly see that the wheel is not centered in the frame between the stays correctly. It would either be too far to the left or right, that is an incorrectly dished wheel.
very informative, thy
I recently got knocked sideways by child bike into my front AC Aero wheel, and noticed immediately that rim was untrue with little dent just below breaking surface on that spot- since then I tried multiple times to true wheel, on truing sets, with spoke tensions, hot water over that spot, etc, but with very limited success. During ride, while breaking with front brakes, I always feel irregular drag while brake pad touches that spot, especially in moving downwards, with bigger weight disposition on front wheel... Is it possible to somehow solve this?
Thanks.
A dent in a rim can be hard to fix. Trying to repair the dent often causes more structural damage than the initial dent. The closer the damage to the outside diameter the easier it will be to potentially fix it though. The fix usually would consist of using some wood and a hammer. This is not suggested though as it can make the wheel unsafe to ride.
@@parktool Thanks for opinion. I think I flattened a dent in optimal degree (with wooden surface and pliers) that braking don't cause much dragging like before. I tried in 57km drive yesterday, it's really better... I appreciate your opinion, really.
When I screw/unnscrew the main shaft, only one arm moves until a certain point, then both start moving. The wheel is very off-centered. Any tips? Cheers
The two collars on the main shaft are most likely not tight up against the weldment. if you follow the instructions laid out in this video you should be centered and your uprights should be move equally together. Because of the many moving pieces and adjustability of this stand there is going to be a small amount of play, typically from the play between the trunnion threads and the main shaft threads. It is crucial that the marks in the holes be centered and that the upright be centered in the weldment. I hope this helps. If you continue to have issues don't hesitate to contact us so we can walk you through further steps.
what size spoke wrench should I use for my mountain bike. I would like to try and true my wheel myself.
Randy, spokes are usually one of three sizes that correspond to our SW-0, SW-1, or SW-2.
Ciao, è possibile fare un video in italiano per capire come centrare in maniera ottimale il TS 4. Io non ci riesco ho provato con diverse ruote campanate . Ho fatto mille prove come nel video sembra che tutto vada per il verso giusto poi provo con un'altra ruota e mi ritrovo punto di partenza. Sicuramente Sono Le due asse a creare dei problemi che in teoria dovrebbero muoversi simultaneamente....Grazie Leonardo simultaneamente e dei
Why not use their own tool for setting the arms and calipers ?? The catalog says "The 1554-1 represents a dished rear wheel to assist in centering the TS-2.2 or TS-2 truing stand."
We like to give people that may not have the tool an option to center. It is also slightly more convenient to use a dished wheel to do this.
Can i use this tool in a bike mags wheels?
Unfortunately there is no predictable, repeatable way to true mag wheels. There are myths out there about using thermal dynamics and temperature swings to coax the wheel back to true.... but they are, Myths.
Could someone tell me the difference of TS2.2 with TS4?
The TS-4 is larger and can accept fat bike wheels with the tires still on them.
I think the TS2 is made of mimetic polyalloy...liquid metal. Or something like that.
Which wheel is that? 4:25
Do theses adjustment and centering methods also work on the TS-2.2 stand?
The TS-2.2 has collars and the caliper arm axle can also be moved. However, as stated, the most accurate method is always a dishing tool.
I have the original truing stand and dishing tool i have to say, i'm a Park Tool fan. Plus they look nice all together in the workshop. :) Great videos too! Everything is top notch!
How come the raising/lowering system of the caliper is nowhere near as nice on the 4.2 stand !?
That was a nice system but also had its own issues. It lacked the ability to center the stand well.
@@parktool Ah , ok , thankyou
Do these centering instructions apply to the TS2.2 also?
It's similar, but not identical.
See czcams.com/video/FzPdbRXAaGY/video.html
Available palaces?
Bloody two hundred and twelve euros and seventy two cents plus eight euros shipping?
My dream just shattered before my eyes
How much does it cost? Anyone know?
Thank you
alot
En idioma español por favor. 🚴🚴🚴
العراقي،👍👍🙋
Why are you securing it to a piece of wood and not to the Park TSB-4?
Good catch. The TSB-4 did not exist at the time that this video was made. Thanks!
Loads of bike shops will secure their truing stands to a piece of wood because they already have a bench at the proper working height at which they like to work and the proper angle so there is no need for a tilting base. My TS-4 is through bolted to a rectangular piece of wood just as Calvin did in this example.
كم.سعرة..$$
Price on a ts4 please
Please contact your local distributor or online retailer for pricing.
Very useful the video but translation for tamil
Deer santa I've been a good boy will you give me one for Christmas
I want this true machine i am indain
At czcams.com/video/krG3Exvy2Pw/video.html is that 15 or 50 Nm?
A whopping 50Nm. Very tight.
pak kumis tukang sepeda
This is a ridiculously complicated design. Too many things to adjust.
is this model now made in china ?
This and most of our products are designed and built in out facility in St. Paul MN.
Годна штука но дорога(
im really REALLY sorry, i love you guys so much but im cringing at the grease, you dont need that much, and all of the left over is just gunna seep out and just look awful
what size spoke wrench should I use for my mountain bike. I would like to try and true my wheel myself.
There are a few possibilities in wrench sizing. The idea is to use the smallest size that fits snug, so it will properly tighten. The SW-0 (with the black handle) is the smallest (3.2mm), and common on better quality wheels. A large size also fairly common is the red handled SW-2 (3.45mm). You see this use on medium to lower end bikes. However, if you can get to a good shop, they should stock the right size and get you the correct size wrench.