How to Clean, Repair and Rebuild Motorcycle Brake Calipers
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- In this video we'll show you how to clean and rebuild the brake calipers on your motorcycle. Cleaning the pads, pins and piston of your brake calipers helps keep them in proper working order. It will help improve braking performance and is required when pistons seize.
Tools used in this video include:
- Both 1500 and 800 wet and dry sand paper
- Wrenches and sockets
- Brake Piston removal tool (see www.motoplace.c...)
- Brake fluid
- Brake cleaner (see www.linkint.com...)
- Specially formulated grease for brakes
For a written step by step guide, see www.therideadvi...
thankyou good sir, just ordered a piston pull tool, this video has helps me quite, my rear caliper is sticking constantly. was to worried doing it myself but its so straightforward. cheers🙏🏻🙏🏻
I'm a little late to this party, but needless to say I found you because I have a caliper to service. This has renewed my faith...thanks for sharing, no doubt I'll be looking at the brake bleeding vid very soon too...now off to locate some sandpaper and a caliper remover.....
i love saving my money to spend on tools & bike knowledge = I love this video CHEERS
Multiple errors were made in this video. To clean the caliper components only brake fluid should be used. Brake cleaner should only be used on unpainted metal, so in this case only to remove old grease from the caliper pins or the back of the brake pads. Even worse is to not remove the rubber seals and clean the grooves they sit in, and they should be replaced of course (isn't that why you're rebuilding them in the first place?). The sliding pins need silicone grease as lubricant and corrosion protection, the back and tabs of the pads can receive a thin layer of copper or aluminum anti-seize or a brake grease, but this is often not required as per service manual.
Meh, I just washed them out inside with rubbing alcohol until all the rusty mud fluid was out, then put some fresh brake fluid in there and sloshed it around as well and let it dribble out and called it good. Grease is a double edged sword... on the one hand while clean it makes things slide better, up until the point it's stuck full of dirt, and then it creates more friction and abrasion.
The best thing to put on the back of your brake pads is.....NOTHING!
Don't be fooled into thinking this is a good thing as the grease can melt and end up on the pad faces (and it does not stop them squealing either!), also dirt and road grit loves sticking to grease becoming a very good grinding paste which you then have to try and clean off to stop it scoring and wearing your discs away in double time!...
Keep them dry, save yourself a world of problems.
It's a high temperature grease it will not melt/run, read the tin "high temperature anti seize grease for mating surfaces". It was always used on brake backing plates and wheel hubs to prevent seizing, just so it's easier to remove when next needed. Squealing is caused by dust on the friction surface rubbing against the disc (less likely on open motorcycle brakes), so you are right there, it will not prevent that. It is fine to use but for the most part not needed on modern pads, especially when the backing plate is copper itself as many now are. So many people are misinformed by channels run by pretend 'experts'.
@@HalfdeadRider The Workshop on CZcams has done several videos regarding people putting grease on the back of pads.
Long story short, don't; there is no good reason to do it.
You're comment actually kind of reinforces this, as you say, it does nothing but make it easier to remove the pads next time. Seems completely pointless, pads are not exactly hard to remove, if anything the are likely to fall out of place as soon as the caliper is removed.
Seems like it's more of a habit than anything else.
czcams.com/video/UzJeToiY4Ik/video.html
BTW, he is an Engineer with plenty of experience
@@UnCivilEngineerIRL It's one of those things that gets handed down through generations of workers, and from teacher to students. That is why people still use these methods that once were needed.
Due to material changes (brake pads generally have copper backing plates now) they no longer actually are needed, either way as said, it will do as much harm as good, zero. So actually anyone who say's it's bad/dangerous are more misinformed than people who say you should use copper grease.
Same goes with O-rings and the use of WD40 or brake cleaner on or near them. O-rings are much better than they once were, but also WD40 and brake cleaner don't have certain ingredients that once could/would cause issues.
@@HalfdeadRider I know why people do it, because they saw someone else do it, and that is not an excuse; particularly when the workshop manuals and brake suppliers explicitly state that it should not be done.
I was helping a friend do some work on his bike and he was going to put copper grease on the threads of the spark plugs before installing them ... because he saw his father (a mechanic) do it.
This is not a good idea as it changes the friction characteristics of the thread and can cause over tightening of the spark plugs (or any fastener) and lead to damage such as stripped threads. Also it has absolutely no benefits.
Yes, it is no longer needed, we can agree on that much for sure but the latter part regarding it being more misinformed to not do something unnecessary or detrimental is absolutely asinine ! As for whether or not is is dangerous or not ... Brembo, EBC and the likes say that it is; end of discussion.
I don't know enough about polymers/elastomers or solvents and chemistry to comment one way or the other. I just follow the manufacturers instruction since they have done the testing for me.
@@UnCivilEngineerIRL I've told you why and it's fact, us mechanics used to use it all the time, no doubt many still do and that's ok. Years back it could be a right pain getting wheels and brake pads off/out on cars.
As for on threads, it's also what it is for, it's a contact anti seize, you'll only over tighten nut's and bolts enough to cause issues if you actually over tighten them, a little copper grease or thread locker will not cause any issues, it prevents future issues.
it's also high temperature grease, just never use for moving parts as it's obviously abrasive. It's only dangerous if it gets on the friction surface, and that only happens if you are silly enough to put it there.
If you like to listen to the real experts, read the labels, do some research and stay away from youtubers who clearly don't know fully what they are talking about. Brake manufacturers will tell you the same as I did above, second end of discussion 😂😂
Good video. The only thing you didn't discuss was the seals (inspect, adjust or replace). Thanks.
@Ulises David if you hacked another person's account, you're no friend.
So you went through all that trouble just to swell your old seals with brake cleaner and not even replace them. Basically you took the caliper apart to damage the most critical component in the system.
No shade but how does brake cleaner swell the seals? Doesn't it just evaporate?
This is a real man video
I did just the same thing!! Clean them .. But I still can't get then too compress.the pads together..the break fluid goes all over my back tire.
Really good clear instructions, but you don't mention anything about the rubber seals !
I agree, they haven't shown how to remove and replace seals.
Looks like you don't need them or they don't exist. :/
Very Good Video. Its is not thorough..but I did not need it to be . Short and sweet..well done!
You should mention that you need to apply copper grease to the caliper holder pins.
IgWannA2 is that the same as copper slip?
Donovan Lawrence Copper slip/grease it's just the same thing basically.
Why do you put grease on the back of the pads? They aren't a moving part
I use Autosol on the pistons, and always change the piston seals as a matter of course.....roy
Im surprised you didn't remove the caliper from the sliders????? They're a sod for corrosion and sticking... causing brake bind.
This not a rebuild. You did not even replace anything. Not even the seals.
Lol did you poop
Yor a bad content bro not funny
Thanks for helping keep my bike on the road. Been tempted to do how to's on my channel. But why do it when folks like you do a bang up job. thanks.
Can I ask why you put grease on the back of the pad which is a non moving part?
So it won’t squeak
@@CBCycles That's what the anti squeal shims are for.
Can you put the calipers in a sonic parts cleaner 😮
Should the rear disc brake pads stay touched with the above positioner clamp or it should have some gap between them?
Excellent video man. I just tried to change the pads for the first time today, but couldn´t fit them as the middle piston wouldn't push in. I also pressed the brake when the caliper was without the pads. Any advice please?
do you still need help?
@kenny how can i help you?
Bloody awesome vid thanks mate, you’re a Legend 🙏🤙🤙🤙🤙
bhai pulser 220 ka rear brake silender ko over haal kis taraha kartey k ek video banay
I think I'm getting a leak at the flange on my KLX250s - have you ever redone the flanges?
Hi... I did the same thing but my bikr cbr 250r abs rear back not functioning efficiently. I tried changing the brake pads, piston and o-ring kit even after it doesnt works efficiently. There is no oil leak or pressure leak in Master cylinder. Can you suggest me how to fix this issue? Thanks
Thanks for the help
how often should i be doing this cleaning procedure? thanks guys
OK I get it but what if I'm unable to bleed the valve because I took it apart earlier and now my pistons are both closed? If I can buy a Brake Piston removal tool then hope that will help. I wish I knew this ages ago then I would of cleaned it out properly without closing both pistons :(
Please help me?
Probably should give the pins a little touch up with 1500 wet and dry as well in my experience - and be sure to replace them with an anti seize compound...I have had them stick like baby poo to a picnic blanket and very hard to break free in hot humid conditions...
Nice video this helps a lot
Great video as always. Thanks for the helpful tips.
So are the Pistons a universal thing? Are they one size?
The Seals are the key element and should replaced.....with the grooves cleaned thoroughly
How about the sliders? That is where regreasing will help
very good lots of thanks of brother
yo may live long
Is it alright if I could apply some wd40 around the piston?
hi, after you release the brake lever, what is the mechanism that pulls
the pistons back? are there springs somewhere in the brakes that pulls
the piston or brake pads back to their original position?
hydraulic pressure
James James void
gonna try this later cheers bud
Is 1:58 necessary? I've never done that.
Good day everyone. Any best alternative for brake cleaner?? Cant find one here in our local stores. Thanks
carburettor or parts cleaner...or just dishwashing detergent
very helpful dude! i cant seem to find your bleeding tutorial do you have a link? :)
+TheGeordieBiker Sorry, I forgot to put a message on the video that's it's coming soon - should go up next week.
TheRideAdvice you could just pump the brake leaver to push the piston out if you don't have tools
Thx
Awesome. Well described.
hello the need to put air inside for what purpose?
You don't have to. It only helps the removal of the piston.
Thanks. Honda MB5.
my 50cc peugeot xps brake is broken, the piston in the brake leaks air, can someone tell me how to fix it
why my back disk brake doesn't work for sometime of my dirt bike???any solution plz
How the fuck are we supposed to know?
Amateur job
Drive the pistons out by hydraulic power and the extract the seals and clean out the seal rings which undoubtedly will be corroded and force the seal to grip the piston
The pistons can be cleaned with a rough rag and brake cleaner abrasive is a last resort
Silicone grease the seals to aid the pistons re entry
Good stuff
If you're going through the trouble of rebuilding the calipers might as well get new pads
What's the name of spray
College vid but why change calippers halfway through te video?
Could be a hose
Adding copper grease is a pretty bad idea, common misconception with "old-school mechanics" Do some reading on the matter guys, its a chemical reaction you do NOT want :)
Minibonde is that the same as copper slip?
I imagine its sorta similar, dont really know what copperslip consists of to be honest. The oldschool mechanics, like i said, have been using this stuff and advising to do so, which is just .. well, its bad! :D Its just an invitation for rust really. However i feel like i gotta say this - there are maaaaany different manufacturers, and so the many products vary. Some focus de-magnetizing the product, thereby eliminating the risk of the chemical reaction between metals. Last.. If you must use something on it, use a kind of plasti-lube and then use spray-grease on bolts etc... if you must
dont need that removing tool, you can use pressurised air but dont hold the fingers on the other side to catch them, can cause a lot of pain, better use a piece of wood or stuff like that
Amen to that, I learned the hard way, Ouch!
sktr28 my uncle too.
Thankfully i learned at my apprenticeship how to handle that
Haha thanks for mentioning this was just about to do it using pressurised air now hopefully I wont hurt my hand.
you can even use air pressure with 4 piston calipers, though you need to jam some cloth or paper towels into the piston cylinders otherwise all the air will just go out those holes lol
Arved Ludwig how to show how to remove and rebuild and replace rear caliber on 2012 electric glide Harley Davidson
Got Honda's CB1100SF and CBR1100XX Blackbird 2002 models, and to avoid all that I clean my brake calipers once a year with WD40, and they are good as new, plus it protects the pistons from corrosion, WD40 won't damage the piston seals or any type of seals in your bike, it works really well.
You do not use brake fluid to reassemble pistons into calipers and master cylinders, brake fluid is hydroscopic ( absorbs moisture ) by doing this you now end up with brake fluid between the water and dust seal and the brake fluid pressure seal, using brake fluid will cause premature corrosion and piston seizure in a short time, the manuals tell you to do this which is 100% incorrect, the guy doing the video should have known this, so be careful what you see on you tube, rubber grease or the proper assembly fluid is what you should be using, ask any professional brake specialist.
Coppaslip or equivalent should only be used on the mounting points where the pad meets the caliper, covering the back serves no purpose.
Very very nice!!
Great! No seals...
I didn't even notice they skipped over that
This is a poor video.
Why do i feel as if all you guys who comment "Thanks! This helped a lot!" Is sarcastic? Im sorry but its a no brainer seeing how to uninstall the piston but still good to include in the video but did u really just skipped the most important part of the job?? Like why skip the seal installation which is the crucial part?.. fml
Remove seal clean seal bed as can corrode and cause tight seal .paaa half a job
My bike is from 1987, let’s just replace the brake pads and not bother sanding asbestos pads with 800 grit sandpaper..
Why even bother about the old pads? swap them for new ones. They don´t cost a fortune.
So you're the type of person that would replace brake pads ( when brand new have 20mm's) when they have around 8mm's left? That's dumb unless the bike you're replacing them on is a track bike and you literally compete in races too. For the every day rider who doesn't put more than 10k miles per year on his or her bike, that's a waste of money replacing them too early.
Don't put Cooper grease or any grease for that matter on the back of the pads. They use to put it on, back in the day to stop squeezes because the brakes were not as well made as today. The pad's are porus to dissipate heat so they will also allow grease in which then could compromise the pads themselves, don't do it. A little on the pins is okay.
WHAT the F***! You did all this work to service calipers and you didnt replace the seals??????????? Bad.
Wouldn't rebuilding a motorcycle Caliper be the same as rebuilding an automotive caliper? I'd think that a caliper is a caliper is a caliper......
Is a caliper.. 🤷♂️