Roland JP8080 Repair PART 1?
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- čas přidán 30. 04. 2021
- Follow me down the JP rabbit hole where we take a look an example that fell to the floor and stopped working. What could possibly go wrong?
This video was shot quite a while ago and I am waiting for a good opportunity to get it back on the bench. - Věda a technologie
I recently bought a second “for parts / Not working” JP-8080. Lucky for me swapping the fuse was all it took to get power and sound working! Your video provided an easy preview of how to navigate a teardown, so just wanted to say thanks. Next step for me is to change a wobbly volume pot, find some missing led’s and find about a dozen missing screws from a previous repair attempt. Good luck with yours and I’m looking forward to part 2!
Don't forget to check the CR2032 battery and use some deoxIT on the pots, faders and back TRS port contacts. I didn't even think to check the fuse before seeing this, looks like a white powder ceramic one that is slow blowing. I'd like to know myself which part to order for the caps, perhaps a link to mauser. I believe they are Panasonic brand, from a previous repair video by BradTHX on a JP-8000.
@@Maschinestorm Yes, the battery certainly needed a swap. DeoxIT helped with a few of the pots and sliders, but there were a hand-full that were just beyond hope and I had to solder in some new ones. My caps seem to be okay so far but I know it's just a matter of time. Let me know what you go with and Good luck with your repair!
For future people:
x19 EEEFC1C100R CAP, 10uF, 16V
x1 EEEFC1C220R CAP, 22uF, 16V
x1 EEEFC0J101AP CAP, 100uF, 6.3V
Fuse shows : 250v t 2 a h (slow blowing ceramic powder filled, prevents ARCing. it is normal to see black threading but not blackened glass)
@@Ez-qt7dx Well, got mine together but two of the buttons are not pressable and the write button fell into the case. Got to deassemble once again. My oled screen is a little messed due to having the persplex plastic screen glued on. If you do the oled upgrade don't bother with the plastic screen. The posts were filed down, need to find a proper way to mount this thing. Volume pot is wiggly so i'll be replacing it.
Part 2? :)
Nice work, my JP8000 had a whole lot of dodgy electrolytic capacitors. Once replaced the synth worked fine again. On the JP8000 forums this is clearly a common problem.
Awesome thanks for the vid very helpful 👍👍👍
Are you doing the part 2 bid for this? Mine was showing a similar problem about 10 years ago after an oversized pc monitor fell on it. I'd had it repaired a couple of years before after I'd had a rock star moment and lobbed it out of the window, along with an electribe and a yamaha cs1x (I'd just split with the ex wife). Only prob I have now is that I've lost the power supply unit, do you think it's plausible to build a new one if I got the component listings? It breaks my heart seeing it as a lovely ornament.
This was a lot of work! I hope you charged accordingly :)
Is there a Part 2? Did you manage to repair that cutie?
Hello maybe you can help me , I’m trying to find the volume rotary knob for the jp-8080 but is difficult because there is no stock anywhere… could you please help me ? Maybe you got some in your parts or know where to find it . Thanks in advance.
Hi, had my JP-8080 opened today (still working) and noticed my capacitor on location C336 is also 3.3uF. I've never recapped this unit. Just though you'd like to know the 10uF value in the service manual _might_ be a typo.
Brazil's distress call
I have a Roland jp8080, the flanger effect went off and doesn't stop, it stays in a loop all the time, even if I lower the effect volume, it continues without stopping. I'm scared my technician can't find the reason for the problem, do you have any idea what it could be? here in brazil we have almost no technician specialized in repairing synths etc...
Anyone ever tried to recap a JP-8080 with tantalums? Would it be a good idea to prevent leaks over time?
No. The electronics industry has largely moved away from tantalums. They don't leak over time, but the can fail by burning up (actual flame). Their only benefit was low ESR (internal resistance), but low ESR electrolytics are common today.
If you recap your synth, buy same uF and voltage as the existing cap (or the next step higher voltage rating is OK), and get 105 deg C @ 1000 hours or 105 deg C @ 2000 hour electrolytic caps (or maybe better if you can find them but don't need more than that). Most these caps that are failing on the JP-8000 and JP-8080 were probably 85 deg C @ 1000 hour rated caps, and worse, they were bad caps in the first place. This was an issue with lots of equipment from the '90's due to, I think, a couple major capacitor company selling substandard caps for a few years. I have lost an expensive '90's era Tektronix oscilloscope for the same issue.
Note, 85C vs. 105C - what does it mean? It is just how they rate the caps. 105C @ 1000 hours means the cap will meet its specs if operated at 105C ambient temperature for 1000 hours (only 42 days!). But since the caps are mostly operating at < 30C, they will last years instead of just 1000 hours. That is why 105C is pretty much industry standard today. 85C caps won't last as long as 105C caps at normal operation temps like room temp.
do you know if one is to bleach the 8 white "key" buttons on the front that turns yellow over time, could you bleach them, as can be done to turn yellow keybeds white again (by leaving them in the sun for 24 hour) without taking it all apart or would it be too risky like that?
You could try the retrobrite method. I think one takes peroxide. 8-bit guy has a tutorial on this. Thing is you really need a test case and there really isn't one.
@@Maschinestorm ok thanks mate - will check it !
@@AnalogFlava I said peroxide but not hydrogen. There is a page on Syntaur that has an article but it is a Salon style volume 40-60.
Wheres part 2 did it fix it what should I replace when the knobs are showing random tweaks without turning them im gonna try recapping it
I have the parts to fix the psu but been to busy mixing etc to look at it. I also have an Orion psu and an rme psu which i will eventually make a combined video about them
Hi do you know if I can change the battery on this without loosing the presets? If not do you know how to change the battery? Thanks
just do a midi bulk dump of everything and then after the battery change you can send the midi dump back in.
Hi I have an issue where my JP 8080 is not turning on, but just showing one led turn on for one second. Could it be the fuse in the power supply?
Yea i'd take it to get serviced if you are not comfortable working on it. While opening up and looking around may be fairy innocuous could cost you, they are going for north of 1k now. The fuse should have a white ceramic powder which is a slow blow preventing ARCing.
Know how to repair you 8080’s. They reach $1300-$1900 used right now.