Roland JP-8000 Repair No / Low Audio Output
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2018
- How to repair the Roland JP-8000 that has low audio or no audio output. Very common problem that will impact every JP-8000 made.
This is a Japanese model that I also convert from 100V to 120V use.
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so many thanks. Today I've found out EXACTLY the same problems you'd shown here. I hope I can found a good service to make the repairing and don't need to sell my car to afford it.
i've watched many hundreds of tech-repair vids like this, and yours is without a doubt, among the best of them! Straight to the point, showing your errors, covering so many points, and i've had a JP-8000 (and a JD-800) for over 10 yrs and still learned a bunch from you, so thanks!!! i bought a bunch of the buttons for them because the previous owner pushed them all so hard they failed/caved in. where are you in case i need help repairing this thing?!?!? thanks for the great vid. i just subscribed and rang the bell. ...cheers
Thanks for making these videos. I love 90s synths and fx processors and these videos are giving me more confidence in the gear that I have and the gear that I want to have but didn't/don't want the troubles.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! This helped tremendously. And also thnx for showing the love for this great hotrod board talking about its versatility.
Great video!!!! Could you share the digikey part numbers and quantity of caps for the main board repair. I'm having a similar issue.
The more of your video's I watch the more I realise I have a lot of cap replacing I need to do. Great video.
Good to see someone with electronics knowledge keeping these going. Don't forget to DeoxIT the faders and potentiometers. The ribbons are also known to go bad, the Test Mode [Hold OSC2 Sync + -12db/24db + Filter Type] can recalibrate the unit. I purchased an OLED display formy 8080, looks real nice and sharp. My first 8000 was in 2003, started automatically adjusting parameters. There is a filter issue that can be solved by adjusting attack slightly on patches. Wish Roland and Panasonic collab'd more back then.
Thank you, thank you and thank you again for this video. Mine showed the exact same problems and because of your careful and thorough explanation, I’ve been able to repair my pride and joy to full output and save a couple of buttons too!
thanks for the video. Replacing C219 solved the low level distorted outputs on y JP8000.
This is super helpful. The ones on ebay with "low audio output" go for around one-third to one-half the price. Most are from Japan as well, so knowing that you don't need to replace the transformer to do an internal conversion is a huge help. Thank you for posting!
My JP8000 started with low distorted sound and then would start to get loud as it warmed up and a few minutes later the sound would be ok. Now it has no sound at all and I always suspected a bad capacitor. Now this video confirmed what I suspected. Thanks!
Thanks for this video. It worked perfectly on my JP-8000. A lot of people ask the same question, what caps do I buy and where? My choice was to go to Mouser and I bought 19 Panasonic 10 uf 16V type FC SMD caps, 1 Panasonic 22 uf 16V type FC SMD cap and one Panasonic 100 uf, 6.3V Type FC SMD cap. All were as suggested, 105c max temperature. And I used the solder iron, heat one side and rock, heat the other side and rock, method of removing the old caps. In about 20% of the cases I had to add a little solder to the pad to get the new one to take.
Hey, I know this was a while ago, but I’m using mouser to get same parts , does the milliamperes matter, which ma did you pick
@@smacktreats So volts matter to be sure, so where it says 16V go with 16 volts etc. etc. and of course the same for uf. uF refers to the size of the capacitor It means microfarads follow this parts list type if not brand, exactly : 19 Panasonic 10 uf 16V type FC SMD caps, 1 Panasonic 22 uf 16V type FC SMD cap and one Panasonic 100 uf, 6.3V Type FC SMD cap. All were as suggested, 105c max temperature.
Thanks for that, my does t actually have any bad capacitors, but it is getting old and thought be a good idea to change them before any leakage etc, mine does seem to have a buggy firmware than seems to degrade over time though
ty for listing the caps needed just recieved them did you happen to replace the caps on the jack board or have a list of those tyia
Great vid, thank you. Very helpful even in 2022 as these synths are classics.
your channel is of public utility !!! thanks for sharing
Super awesome video! Please keep them up. Everyone can learn from you! :) Take care, Sam.
I cannot thank you enough for making this video!
CAPS ARE EVIL!!! CAPS ARE EVIL!!! ; )
Thank you for sharing these informative contents, I'm inspired to learn more about electronics and try my hand at repair vintage synths. More repair videos and some tutorial please!
The best video showing the process!
thank u mate thank u thank u thank u!! I got my JP-8000 at 2009 from Florida (ebay) and my friend brought it to me here in Moscow.
Someday I saw some keys stick and someday device has gone (obviously the problem is you described). I disassembled my 8000 friend but I cant did nothing, I just watched the boads and the boards silently watched me)) now because of you mate I know what to do- I'll burn em all! (kiddin) I''' try to fix it. And when it will be okay I'll send you a beer mate! and thanl you VERY VERY much! you the man!!
Awesome! I own one of these and I'll probably need to do this sooner or later. Thank you!
Hello from England, Many Thanks for showcasing the No / Low Audio Output repair on the JP-8000, Today i have purchased a JP-8000 from Ebay. I will do the Re-Cap. Thank You...Great Work.!!
Thanks for watching Steve!
Good morning Brad. Can you send me the link to the actual capacitors to purchase for this unit or the actual model numbers@@bradthx
great video. My JP8000 seems to have some issues, and its great to know basically whats under there before I go prying.
Great video! I envy your knowledge. I purchased a JP8000 advertised as working perfectly, but far from it. The volume was low and intermittent. I followed the testing procedure recommended in the service manual and found a bad pot in the amp section. I had to remove all the boards to get down to the control board and replaced the pot and it worked fine after that. Didn't know about replacing the capacitors, but luckily that wasn't the acute problem. It really is a great synth.
Cool - how much was it, and when was that?
Good to see that your electronic skills are way better than your keyboard chops. :). Fun aside, thanks for this awsome repair video, hope you make more of'em. Greetings from Sweden.
Super great video. Thanks a lot!
Thank you so much for this video!!
This video doesn't lie. But if you're watching it, you've probably already found your synth has this problem. Interesting sidenote: the same E on my keyboard sticks as well, as do the G and A above it. Good to hear it growl again!
Nice useful video thank you btw nice demo at the end. ^_^
Great video. The JP8080 has a different main board since you were wondering during the video. I am in the process of recapping my 8080 and it is cool to see the differences of the boards.
Homelan Kuro is the transformer the same? Curious if you can move the taps as well.
does 8080 have the same issue??
ATTENTION! by bending the caps with solder iron is exact the way, how you easy destroy the PCB, not do it like that, better with electrical vacuum pump. otherwise, thanks for this helpful video. happy soldering ;)
Nice and thx man epic video DIW !
Great video. Thanks.
Nice helpfull video. Now it's my turn to change the caps on my mainboard. But I'll start with the 100uf and the 22uf first the rest is the same (10 uf). 🙂
Hi Brad, thank you so much for putting the time and effort into doing these videos. I have my friends JP8000 in front of me with very similar symptons (the headphone output still showing signs of life though) and so this video has given me more confidence to go ahead with a repair.
I was wondering if you have encountered a similar issue with the D-50? I have one that seems all good, except for no audio whatsoever on both main and headphone outputs.
Thanks a bunch!
/Simon
Good question. I really wanted a D50 due to it having one more octave however these digital modelers are pretty nice without the higher price of a Moog, etc.
Great video! Do you have the digikey BOM for this? Thanks.
Love the video. Please let me know if you have a repair business, my daughter is having issues with her JP-8000. Thanks , Rey.
Your video is going to help me a ton on refreshing my JP8080. Much thanks for this. I have noise coming out of the audio outs when power is plugged in but unit is turned off. Do you know what could be causing that and what parts I should look at replacing?
Thank you for this video! What about broken sloders? Any replacement nowadays available? Please advice.
Excellent ❤️❤️❤️
Hey @Bradthx. Thanks for the video help. I don't suppose you'd be able to share those cap values/part numbers? I'd like to avoid buying the schematics if I can help it, and I'm sure this is the problem I'm having!
Thanks in advance ☺
Thanks for the helpful video! What type of solder are you using to reattach the electrolytic capacitors? Thanks 🙏
Olá amigo. Eu tenho um módulo Roland RA90 que está sem som nas saídas de áudio. Será que trocar os capacitores dele também resolve o problema ?
I tried to follow you advice but all capactiors in the audio route seem to work properly . In my JV80 all the three left hand side sliders appeared to be damaged and indicating much different resitance and also incorrect for both channels. That incudes violume, presence, and C1. So first of all I would try to check the sliders. I need ot replace all three and recheck.
Hey Brad, good video, thanks. Ive replaced the caps on digi and I/O boards. Ive got audio as far as the op amp IC4a/b, but no output from this. Thought id check the voltage rails and im getting +18 and-14...would these values be 'out' enough from the +/-15 stated by Roland to stop the op amp working? ...im just trying to figure chasing the power supply issue....or changing the Op amp ic? cheers.
Awesome video. I just bought a Roland JP-8000 and it needs all the electrolytic capacitors replaced. I was just wondering what you charge for that. I have a place in Tampa I take it to. They are Roland certified. I just wanna know if they are over charging me.
Good video but I am pure amateur so was struggling to see the soldering technique. Perhaps it is the camera angle. Also I would have thought that you take the battery out first. over all well explained and good techniques. Thanks man.
I fixed one recently by replacing C217 and C219 and didn't have to touch the ones near the dac. Which is weird to me because they are near the power input so I wonder what impact it could have on audio (beside not providing enough juice to the chips on the board).
I bought this keyboard from a Berlin group a few years ago in 2013, I believe, when I received it from the post office via France, it made noise, and the internal card was destroyed, I re-soldered it with many electrical wires and reattached with chemical hardener glue, given its external condition I have since sold it!! ebay sometimes sells quite a few wrecks!!
Hi Brad, I had a Roland JP 8000 with low and distorted audio output, I did the same procedure as your video and it was perfect, and after a few hours on it starts to generate a super distorted sound and only returns to normal when cools down, I did the audio path and saw that the distorted sound starts at the input of the IC22 that is connected to the DAC IC20, do you think the DAC may have problems that only appear when it heats up?
Thank you for this If people cared about their synths you wouldnt be paying 10k for a TB303! I have a JP8080 desk unit with low audio ... will it be same/similar fix?
Ok! So, I've sussed it out! Its scary doing it but the white ribbons literally just pull out of the plugs and the blacks will come out when you lift the ends of the plugs to release them..Hoping this might be of help to someone...
@bradthx My Roland f-110 has low volume sometimes and sometimes the volume is fine. Any suggestions on trouble shooting this? Should I still try replacing all the capacitors? thx bud
I’m attempting to do this job now. To remove the board from the box there are connectors with black wires coming out of them. I’ve tried and tried to pull them out but they won’t budge. Do they clip in somehow? Or do I just yank them? I don’t want to break the board but I’m pulling and pulling and they won’t disconnect from the board. Please help!!!
I have a Roland f-110 which has low volume. Hope this works for it as well...
Hello I have an ensoniq kt series keyboard with low audio output. Are you familiar with this keyboard and could share some advice? The output is strong on the pre loaded demo song and sequence demos. But playing the keys is very low. So I’m confused and not sure where to start tracking down the issue. Any help greatly appreciated!
Hi, the MIDI in on my JP-8000 does not work. I've traced the signal with a scope right to the serial input of the main CPU and the signal is absolutely fine. I've even replaced the optocoupler and the hex inverter but still no luck. Everything else works perfectly fine (including the MIDI out) so I'm running out of options what I could try next. Any ideas?
What if you replace the jack audio output board with Audio caps like Elna Silmic II is it better?
Great video! I am trying to revive my old JP-8000 and came across the same issue. As a newby with this type of repairs, knowing the digikey part number would be super helpful. I found PCE4023CT-ND on their site. Is it the one you used?
That is the correct series that I used. I order a lot of parts and don't remember specific values, once you open the synth the caps are labeled with the appropriate values and voltages making them easy to find with Digikey's parametric search. There were three of four different values needed.
My Fantom X6 output level is very low and thin. Any help how I can fix that?
Hey Bradthx. I have issues with noisy output from both L+R and headphones. Sometimes I let the JP play some arps for one hour playing and then it becomes normal sound again. Do you know what this issue could be?
Hello there!!! Can anyone please tell my exactly how many volts are produced from the secondary coils of the jp - 8000 transformer? Service manual does not help me
How to remove cable from mainboard I get some trouble.I can remove ribbon cable but other can't.
@bradthx the power conversion video is no longer on CZcams, there isn’t any way to watch this still is there?
does anyone know a list of caps on the jackboard by chance if not ill just have to look and see what they are while im replacing the mainboard caps tyia
I have an akai Mpc 1000 with no audio, the digital outs work but analog don’t. I replaced the ic chip but nothing. I do hear a bit of scratchy connection when I plug headphones but no sound at all. Any ideas where I should look?
Hi Bradthx, thanks for making these videos! I have a JP8000 and there's no signal from the midi out. Midi in is fine though. Have tried different cables, but still nothing. Is it a common issue? Anything I could do to fix? Thanks!
On my jp 8000 midi also didn`t work. I ordered new midi jacks for the jp8000 over thomann. They ordered directly from roland. A friend of mine changed them and now all works fine again!
hi, can you list the full capacitor mainboard? THANKS!
Hi, questions, does anyone have the specific part list available for this capacitors replacement?
I have one at the repair shop. Guy said he replaced the capacitors, and now the unit “locks up.” Any thoughts??
I have this problem on my Roland JV80.. 1992 model. The headphones out works fine but the left/right audio out is low.. about half of what it should be. Can I send you the board itself to have it recapped.. that is if you believe that is the issue?
It's easy enough to do yourself if you can do basic soldering. Or find someone local who can reliably fix electronics, phones, laptops etc. 👍
You playing Above & Beyond at the end?
Anyone know what caps I need to buy ??
Looks like Matsushita (Panasonic) were involved somehow.. that is their "M" log on the board !
Hi brad, can you move the transformer Tap on the jp 8080 as well? (Rackmount version of this synth). I was looking at a Japanese unit but I’m based in the US. Thanks!
Hey Ronnie, the JP-8080 uses a smaller switching power supply, it does not have the transformer taps you see on the JP-8000 and many other Roland synths of this era. But the good news is I don't believe it needs a voltage conversion as as result, it should work on any region voltage from 100V to 240V. The label on the bottom should state this.
@@bradthx Thanks for the info! also great video, I never knew those polymer capacitors would go bad. Normally the tantylum caps in the older analog gear are the first to go. Great video.
Do you happen to take these in for repair?
Thanks! My JP-8K just started this issue. What are the values of the caps I need to get and where can I get them?
Replace the caps with ones of the same values - it's marked on them.
You can get them from any electrical component suppliers.
Hmm replaced all the 10u 16v caps on the Motherboard. Still low audio! The funny thing is none of these caps smelled fishy or had discolored leads! which is normal for the "Roland" caps I have seen over the years. So I had my doubts
Does anyone have another suggestion?
If I ever make synths or effect pedals...I will never use surface mount components, so it is easier for people to repair.
16:05 about serigraphy, lower borber, upside down, right down (or up for us viewer) the "J" of JP8000 there's an "M" encased in a square. That's the logo of Matsushita (National/Panasonic/Technics): looks like Roland doesn't have facilities to build circuitry and Matsushita is the contractor. Saw the same in a 1991 JD800.
You are correct Matsushita is the founder of Panasonic. I think Roland has a lot of fabrication done by them, in the 90's anyway. Everything today is well, you know.
@@Maschinestorm China? Eh... Apart from some very hi-tech stuff like photography and CPUs where they don't want to risk industrial espionage. Like that famous one that lead to the capacitor plague.
I remember I've seen that [M] also on the DC motors inside AKAI tape deck.
I am about to get a good condition Roland jp 8000. It has the well known low level/no sound from the outputs issue, the synth freezes while you use the mod wheel and all the bottom screen buttons are busted, stacked in their holes so they need to be replaced/serviced.
All others work. Also there is a distorted/noisy signal only from the phones jack - this has to to with the well known caps problem on this synth - also it has a couble of burned keys and the chassis under these keys is burnt too.
Does it worth it with the prices raising on this synth the 100 euros he is asking ?
So you think it is in good condition? Sounds like a lot of issues…
Have you got a link to the caps by any chance bud?
I need to repair mine. Do you know anyone who have ever replaced the key caps the knobs and the outer plastic cover. I was wondering if its possible to find components and part print outs
You can buy the knobs from electrical parts suppliers.
Bless you!!!
May I contact you?
Could we please get a list of the caps needed please? I am going to attempt to fix mine, and I read through the service manual, but I don't understand it at all.
I opened the synth but I don't know what I am looking for in terms of the value of the caps. thanks again.
19 EEEFC1C100R CAP, 10µF, 16V
1 EEEFC1C220R CAP, 22µF, 16V
1 EEEFC0J101AP CAP, 100µF, 6.3V
@@koolamplification6442 That was very convenient. Thank you.
@@koolamplification6442 Thanks!
A list of the caps would be very very welcome
Replace with ones of the same marked value. You have to remove them to check them.
I have the same exact problem with my Roland xp80
Thanks for this video, it's giving me confidence to purchase one of these. Where does one get this schematic?
They are easily available, just search for JP-8000 service manual and you will find it. Ignore the sites that want you to pay for it. Thanks for watching!
@@bradthx well I got it...cheap, and it has the exact problem you show in this video. My dad did what you do now, but he repaired t.v., vcr's, stereos, amps etc. I got the plans and just gotta order parts
@@old_romans - How'd it go?
@@NeuronalAxon good so far, not done though, it's slow going because adulting, still have half this board and the other board to do. The virus is creating some more time to do these sorts of things at least.
@@old_romans - Best of luck with it - keep us posted. 👍
Hey, after reading a lot about people saying usually the C219 cap was the culprit for low level output I replaced it, but nothing changed. Should I go ahead and replace all of the smaller caps on the board? Is there anything else that would be causing this? Thanks
Assume all the electrolytic caps need replacing.
i have a sh-201 with no sound on the outputs only midi
I see one for sale in my local music store. Should I buy? 🤔
What temperature did you have it set to?
Great video? Do you put 230V or 240V in Europe? I'd say 230V, although I get around 236 at home...
It's usually specced as 220-240V in Europe AFAIK.
did these come in different colors?. yours looks black. I have a blue one
Hello Have you ever had a Roland JP 8000 that crackles on the sound? I replaced the BLOCK DAC and DSP capacities but I still have this noise on IC22
The same thing happened with mine, when replacing the capacitors, the audio outputs started working again, only after a few hours it starts to distort the output, follow the audio path and I saw that from the IC22 input the signal was already is distorted
@@LeandroSantos-jv4ex helloyes I have replaced this chip but still nothing. the signals come from a chip from Roland. hard to say why he does that...no data sheet. The capacitor that we accuse in general makes it possible to limit the audio power by pinching a transistor... (we play on the constants of charges and discharges... in short). have you tested your entire amplifier chain? I did but unfortunately not the culprit. sometimes the flow of capacitors is not nice for electrical tracks
@@sebastiencompagnone229 Hello, you said you changed the DAC and still had the problem?
@@LeandroSantos-jv4ex Hello, Yes that's right. The component is from China may be a bad component...I will recommend a DAC...
@@sebastiencompagnone229 I had a different experience these last few days, I removed the battery and put it back on the keyboard, then the phrase "Memory damaged" appeared on the display so I did the factory reset and calibrated the pith bend and ribbon and it's been two weeks without the no noise before in less than 10 minutes, turned on, it was a problem. I just saw a report on the internet that some paths might sound distorted when the battery is low, so I thought that when I opened it up and took it apart, something might have corrupted the sound memory, well, that fixed it for me.
mine hasn't yet...
Hi ... I followed the video but now have a blank screen. No Roland logo and no activity from buttons. Any thing you can think would give me this error ??
I’ve found the error. 😁 on removing one of the Caps unknown to me a track had lifted and broken from C86 to C85. I checked through the board layout for every Cap I’d replaced, every connection and found here where there was supposed to be direct connection it was open circuit. I put an outboard connection on and it now powers up correctly.
Where did you buy it from?
Anyone know the amount and v and uf needed to teplace them on all the boards? Plz help
Same as the originals.
Are all the capacitors you're replacing on the main board the same?
No they are different values. It writes on them or in the service manual/schematic drawing.
WHAT IS THE PATH TO DO THIS