NOTE - NOTE - NOTE: If you are interested I did an update video on servicing this motor after five years. Just go to my channel and do a search for: HONDA 2.3 H.P. OUTBOARD MAINTENANCE AFTER FIVE YEARS and I did another called HOW TO SERVICE YOUR OUTBOARD.
Petrus, there are two ways. You can buy the lube in a tube that looks like a large tube of tooth paste or a plastic bottle with a spout at the top that you cut off the tip of the spout and squeeze it up into the bottom hole. When the lube starts to flow clear with minimal bubbles from the top hole insert the top screw. Then you remove the tube of lube from the bottom and quickly insert the bottom screw. You see me do that in my video. You must hold the tube tight against the bottom hole when squeezing the lube in or you will get a big mess. They also make a small hand pump that screws into the top of the lube bottle that has a tube with a fitting on the end to attach to the bottom screw hole and you hand pump the lube the same say I just explained. The problem with my hand pump is that my fitting is too large to fit on the bottom hole but if you find one that has an adapter to fit that hole that is the easiest way and least messy way to do this. Gerry
I appreciate your video. It is very unusual in this day and age for someone to do a video without a lot of vulgar language. Thank you for your good character.
I hope Honda sent you a big check for making this video. I was about to sell my 2.3 Honda and decided to give it another shot. After doing everything on the video, it just came back to life. I will be saving this video to my favorites and just redoing this every once in a while. Awesome video!! Thank you.
thank you very much Gerry for this comprehensive video, I´m just in the middle of servíng my 2.3 Honda and this is very helpfull. Cheers from Valencia/Spain
Wonderful video. I watched it all. Two months ago, I bought a Honda BF 2.3. In May I will finally put it on my HONWAVE 3.0 AE and sail it to the local Mavrovo Lake. Let me repeat: Great video - pretty useful
Great video. Here is a few hints regarding the oil change. Not sure why Honda put the drain screw there but it is what it is SO when I change the oil, I tile the motor over so the dirty oil doesn't run onto the handle. Also, there is exactly 250 mls or 1 cup of oil in the crank case (as per the manual). Dispense that amount into your pouring vessel and you will have the perfect amount EVERY TIME. Window is a great thing but when you have an exact amount from the manufacturer, I go with the manufacturer. Keep up the great videos
A dollar store clear ketchup/condiment bottle works great as a dispenser. I marked the bottle at the level where 250cc is so now I can just fill to that mark and dispense. I change the oil every 6 months. The manual says 50 hours but this little guy mostly makes short trips between 1/4 to 1/2 mile so I change it more often. 1 tank of gas = 1 hour more or less so that is my hour meter. We burn about a tank a week running between our sailboat and shore so really about 25 hours. The oil looks almost new when I change it. Every time I have the fuel tank off I dump it into a clean 1 quart paint mixing cup and shake it out good to get any water hiding at the bottom of the tank There always is a few drops. Then I titrate the gas back into the tank using a baja funnel filter to get any crud or water out of it. If I found any yuck I pull the hose off of the tank and clean the little filter in there. I also drain the carburator bowl as well as part of a service because there are usually a few drops of water in there too. The carb bowl is not very well galvanized and will rust if there is water left in there. I drain the carb if I am not going to run the engine for a week or more. Running it dry doesn't work so well. I've checked..There is still a lot left in there so I just drain it with the little drain screw. A paint mixing cup works great for catching the gas here too.
Gerry, glad you're back. Enjoy your videos. My wife and I are making plans to purchase a Twin Troller and we find your videos very informative in our decision-making.
Phillip and Mrs. Phillip, I think you will like the Twin Troller. After the initial purchase of the boat the cost of operating the TT is minimal and it satisfies all the needs of a fisherman plus you can take the Mrs. for a romantic boat ride on your favorite waters. Be careful, in my days being a bass fishing guide I found that the Mrs. usually catches more or the larger fish so always take pictures of your own large fish to have with you so you can defend your honor in a pinch. 😎 Gerry
I bought the Honda 2hp in 2000, I have always used it in salt water but not a heavy amount of hours, besides normal maintenance(plug, fluids, replacing the pull rope) I have had no problems with it. In 2016 I had forgotten to run the carb dry and empty the tank at the end of the season and it wouldn't start so I did a carb cleaning and intended to put a lot of new parts in it but the gas line was fine and still supple the carb parts looked fine so I put it back together and it started right up and no problems since and that was 5 years ago and no problems. I always run Seafoam in the gas and run it dry at the end of the season, I run synthetics in the oil and lower unit and change it about every 5 years. I cut up a bunch of 1/8" silicon bronze brazing rod for the prop shaft pins and carry 10 with me. (I carry a nail set and needle-nose pliers to get the broken parts out, a hard lesson learned) I am so glad I got the direct drive model so I can run at the lowest idle speed of about 2mph, I would have hated the clutch model as 2mph is the perfect trolling speed for me. It is the best little motor I have ever owned!
@@LunkerFishing I have, I take care of my stuff. I read that the new 2.3 models are made in China and folks have had some problems with them like vapor locks or gas cap issues, I don't know. I looked at a site recently that sells them and oddly, they are about the same price I paid 21 years ago! Also, I didn't see the direct drive model, I wonder if they don't make those anymore? I would never buy a clutch model.
Sam, I just noticed your reply. I am not sure where the 2.3 is made. I think all of the ones that come through FEM are the clutch model like mine. I have no problems with the clutch model. I find that when I have not used the TT for a week or so I have trouble starting it at first until the fuel flows back into the carb, then it starts easily. I started opening the fuel shut off valve on the side of the motor and opening the vent on the cap when I arrive at the boat launch for a few minutes while preparing the boat. I always launch the boat with the Honda raised horizontal but shut off the fuel and close the cap vent. When I get into the water I lower the Honda back vertical open the fuel valve and open the vent on the cap and it starts easily then. Gerry
Hi Gerry, just got this Honda as my first outboard for my little inflatable for fishing and diving but bought it second hand so was very nervous about the potential state of it.. your video is so straight forward a baby could follow it. Thank you very much and I saw the fishing rods so as we say in New Zealand, tight lines. Simon
Simon, thank you for the nice comments. That Honda is a good motor and simpler than others because it is air cooled with less moving parts. I hope it works out for you. Gerry
Very thorough if everyone did this very few would be caught out by breakdown two additional things I do is use some white waterproof grease on propeller shift and pin. And a couple of drips of 3 in 1 oil on the cable where they go into cable sheath.
Now cut the gas line and install a small gas filter between tank and carburetor, so you will never have a problem with your carburetor, good job, thanks
UPDATE: I should have posted this before. Prior to this tune-up I noticed I was not getting the same speed as I was in the past (just slightly lower) but after I did this tune-up it brought the performance of the motor back up to normal as when it was brand new. I guess it needed this more than I thought. Gerry
Lunker012 . I may have missed it, but how did you put gear oil back into the gear case? The manual states to add oil through the oil drain hole until the oil flows out the top hole! I don't have an oil pump adapter which is the reason I'm asking how did you do it. Thanks. John
Great video thanks for taking the time to record and explain the whole prosses I am hooked, and I subscribed to your channel. Thanks From George in Redondo Beach CA.
@@LunkerFishing it’s the shiny lever that holds up the leg (ie the propeller) when you tilt it out of the water. You pull the motor and raise it when you want to lower it again.
Thanks for a very good video Gerry.. I'm sure your engine will last a long time. Regarding the noise level on the engine, do you think that air-cooled engines are noisier than water-cooled, what is your experience. Many thanks preben from Denmark.
Being you have to lube the control arm by removing it from the body, perhaps you can change the oil with the arm off and prevent the mess of the oil running down. 😊. BY THE WAY I owned one of these about 15 years ago. I had it about 4 months and it was stolen.
Walter, Good point however, I found another way to easily change the oil that I will show in a future video on servicing this or any other motor. Stay tuned for that. Gerry
William, funny you should say that. I have been criticized for having music in the background while talking because it interferes with people hearing what I have to say. Now I only have the music when I am not talking. Thanks for watching. Gerry
Joe, I do that once a year. If you want to see the lower unit oil changed just go to my channel and do a search for: HONDA 2.3 H.P. OUTBOARD MAINTENANCE AFTER FIVE YEARS Gerry
Watched this a few times before attempting my service and suddenly realised that despite being thorough and very methodical it does not seem to include re-filling the gear lube on the lower end.
David, Remove both screws. Insert oil in bottom until oil exits top screw hole. Install top screw. Remove oil filler in lower hole and quickly install lower screw. Tighten both screws. Job done. I did record that but must have deleted it by accident. Thanks for pointing that out. Gerry
Rodney, I am thrilled to make contact with other TT owners. I learned so much over the years from other CZcamsrs that I try to give back to others when I can. What State are you in? Do you fish in small bodies of water or large? Keep fishing, but stay safe. Gerry
Lunker012 Gerry, I am in Indy. I mostly fish Eagle Creek Reservoir and smaller lakes etc. I have had several boats but the twin troller will be my last one because I am satisfied. I have a tohatsu 3.5 on the back and a helix 9 on the front. My boat is set up some what like yours. Thanks again for your videos............. twin troller x 10 IS THE GREATEST!!!!!!
Rodney, My guess is you are also fishing for smallmouth up there. I miss fishing for smallmouth but every summer I head back to family in Upstate NY and do some fishing up there, but it is too far from Florida to tow the TT up there, although I would love to fish in the lakes up there that way. Catch one for me. Gerry
Great video. How many people pay a dealer $100 to do this or just delay service? On the lower unit drain/vent screws and the engine oil drain screw. When loosening if you tap the back of the screw driver slightly with a hammer while applying a little torque it relieves the pressure on the threads and insures ez removal, when tightening I go until it sets at about 5 inch lbs ant tap it once while torquing lightly.
I have had no problems with water getting into the vent hole on the gas cap but I always turn it off when the engine is stored and when tipping the engine to the horizontal position and my boat is garage kept. I treat my fuel when I buy it with a fuel stabilizer (usually SeaFoam) and always use non-ethanol fuel. This motor uses so little fuel it would be crazy not to treat it and use good gas. Good questions. Gerry
Hi There,this is the 2nd time that I watch your video ,and I have to say Good Job Sir Good Job ,there's a saying ,if you take care of your Outboard Motor ,it will last a very Long time ,Thank you .
Ibrahim, All motors operate the same as this one except you likely have a water cooled system on that Merc 5 hp while this motor is air cooled. That means there is an impeller inside the water pump that needs to be periodically replaced. You do that by removing the lower end, open the water pump, replace the impeller, and reinstall the lower end. You still need to change the lower end fluids, spark plugs, grease fittings and other lube points, and change the crankcase oil just like I did in this video. Your manual should show how to do all that. Gerry
Bill, I do not turn the prop out of the water so I do not know how to answer you. Try removing the prop to make sure there is no fishing line or debris behind the prop and if not, try spinning the shaft with no prop on there and see if you hear the squeak then. If you do it is an issue in the lower end. Gerry
Lunker012 I have the long shaft model as it’s for a small sailboat ,squeak comes from the shaft extension linkage housing ,just serviced the motor after the first 10 hours ,I’ll ask the Honda guys still under warranty,thanks for the quick reply ,
Todd, You are the first to point that out. Apparently that was left on the cutting room floor when editing. See the gear oil bottle at time stamp 1:27? Under the black cap there is a pointed nozzle. Snip off the tip of that nozzle so oil can be pushed out. Insert the nozzle into the bottom hole and squeeze until oil comes from the top but no more bubbles. Then continue holding the bottle in place while inserting the top screw and start that screw by hand for now. Remove the bottle and then insert the bottom screw QUICKLY and get it started also. Then tighten the top and bottom screws. You will always loose a small amount of oil but if you are organized and fast you will not lose much. You will do a much better job the next time you do this, next year. Good luck, Gerry
Chock full of questions, this one on the types of grease. My grease gun has the blue marine grade which looks like what you use in yours. I have a can of white lithium grease, which I think you have in the tube. Is that correct? I also have food grade lubricant available. Will that cover it. Thanks again. I pick up a new detail each time I watch your video. Doing a 10 hour tuneup on my new Honda 2.3.
Gerry, where do you get those gas containers and what are they called? Also, would be interesting to know how and the safe way using these type of containers, especially on the water! Thank you in advance! Gary
Great question!. I know I had someone ask me before in comments on another video but I looked, I cannot find it. The Honda holds 38 oz of gas in the on-board tank. The bottles I use are from Amazon and here is a current link to them: www.amazon.com/dp/B0015I0GE6/ref=sxts_kp_tr_2?pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=q6tjs&pf_rd_r=B1CNHN3K1E0NVBX5CSHM&pd_rd_i=B0015I0GE6&pd_rd_w=btqoX&pd_rd_r=b2e33914-605a-458a-a89d-ca081cf6f60b&ie=UTF8&qid=1544838777&sr=2 They come is a few sizes but mine are the MSR Liquid Fuel Bottle 30 oz. at Amazon and right now they are $15.99 each for Prime members. I have two bottles in the boat when the Honda is on the back. Basically the Honda then has three tanks full of gas. One thing about those bottles is they have a wide enough opening that I do not need a funnel to pour into the Honda when on the water. If the weather is bad it may be a little tricky but most days I have no problem refueling. TIP: The caps can usually be removed by hand but sometimes they become hard to open. You push down then twist but the O-ring under the cap could use some lubrication at times. I use either Super Lube or I also have a thicker paste. Both are a Silicone base and the paste I got from NAPA. I just apply a thin layer on the O-ring them put the cap on and off twice to spread the lube on the surfaces where the O-ring touches. After a few months when the cap starts to be difficult again I lube it again. I store both next to the transom on each side of the boat. (One right over the drain plug) They both stand upright there and never fall over. Prior to buying them I contacted the company and they said they are OK for storing gasoline. Just leave a little room at the top for expansion. I did some research and found that many motorcycle owners have them for a reserve tank in case they run out of fuel. They often store them in their saddlebags without problems. I hope that helps. Gerry
question. on these small motors, can you wait a year for the tune up? and if using full synthetic oil, does that protect the engine better than regular oil?
Gerry, do you know if they make a stainless steel prop for this Honda 2.3hp? If so, any details where to get one? I would like to use it as the main prop and use the plastic one that came with the TwinTroller for a spare. Thanks! Gary
Gary, I am not aware of a stainless prop for the 2.3 Honda. Honda could better shed some light on that but a stainless prop would be much heavier than the standard plastic or original prop. Weight is also a concern in a small boat. I have to think the prop that came with the motor may be designed as part of the safety system to this motor. SS has absolutely no give and if you strike something hard it may cause substantial damage to a motor that has relatively small components inside that the plastic prop may help to protect by flexing or even breaking. If you find one please let us all know here. Gerry
Not enough information to make a response. That description could have so many causes. Bad fuel, fuel filter clogged, spark plug bad, Spark plug gap not right, spark plug wire bad, Carb settings off, Timing off, Valve clearance off, etc. etc. etc.
Gerry, due to the warranty limit, a friend suggested that I should buy the outboard engine independently in Canada. I have the choice of using a Yamaha 2.5 hp and a Honda 2.3. I know the Yamaha 2.5 hp is 10 lbs heavier and water cooled. Do you have any advice for me?
Charley, my guess is that the water cooled Yamaha may have a longer life but that is a guess. Not sure if the extra .3 horse would make it run fast enough to offset the extra weight. I am not a small build so to a smaller person that extra weight in a heavier motor may not make a difference. There is also a concern that the extra weight is at the very rear of the TT but again, I am not sure what effect that may have. The only thing I do know is that the Honda 2.3 works well. It starts easy, runs well, is slightly loud, does not overheat, is easy to maintain, is easy to put on and off the TT due to it's light weight even on the water edge, and looks fine on the TT. Without the experience of having other motors on a TT to know if they would be better I would be making an uneducated recommendation to you. Either way, let us know what you get and if you like or dislike your choice. Good luck. Gerry
lunker012 Thank you, Gerry! Your response is very helpful. I will try to use my friend’s Yamaha 2.5 hp a few times and then decide which one I should purchase.
Hello Jerry, greetings from Italy. Thank you for the great work you did, I am going to follow all the procedure to replace engine oil. Actually I had an issue with my bf.2.3. I loaded into my car and laid from the wrong side… and I had lots of oil going out and I was not able anymore to start it up. I guess some oil went into the engine because when I remove the spark-plug I see is wet and looks like some oil is in it. In any case I cannot run the engine anymore, it does not startup. So yesterday after I saw your video I drain all the engine oil from the screw as you shown in your video and now engine is totally empty, honestly I don’t know if I need to open up the engine to the pistons level to clean it up, if you have any advice would be really really appreciated.
Giovanni, do not open up the motor yet. Try some of the following. Get a new spark plug (or at least do a good job cleaning the old plug to remove all old oil and fuel) to put back in the crankcase. Stand the motor back up and put it on a stand or the back of a boat transom, some place you can start it. Remove the spark plug and keep putting the starter rope until you do not have any oil squirting out of the spark plug hole. Pull that rope fast and many times to clear the oil and any fuel from the cylinder. Make sure you replace the crankcase oil to the normal level that leaked out when you put the moron on the wrong side. Connect the new plug to the wire but do not screw it back in yet. You or someone else hold the spark plug threads against the motor where the threads of the spark plug hole is. Pull the starter rope fast to see if you have spark. Make sure the kill switch is not disconnected and the throttle is in the start position on the throttle handle. If you do not have spark you have an electrical issue if you have spark you have a fuel issue, if you feel compression when puling the rope. If you have spark then now screw in the plug. Make sure you have fuel in the tank and the lever to allow fuel to enter the motor is on like you do every time you start the motor normally. Try to start the motor as you normally do. If it still does not start let it sit and wait for another 1/2 hour in case it is flooded. If it still does not start, pull the plug to see if it is wet. If it is wet it may be flooded, leave plug out and pull rope a bunch to clear it and dry/clean the plug again then reinsert it and try starting it again. If it was dry they you are not getting fuel. If plug is dry squirt a small amount of fuel in the cylinder then put the plug back in and if it starts, or tries to, but will not continue to run you have a fuel/carburetor problem. Let me know how it goes, Gerry
Lunker012 thank you Gerry for the valuable hints. I will try these days and let you know how it goes. I was thinking to open the cylinder to clean but i prefer to avoid this. Will try as you recommend.
Lunker012 I fixed it thank you. Acrually I removed the filter to check and there were oil everywhere inside the carb, gasoline oil everywhere. I dismounted the carb and washed all with gasoline and mounted everything back. Then i followed your hints to get the oil out from the cylinder. Reinstalled the spark plug and at the first attempt the engine started. Its a good motor i like it. Mine lost the stickers to show the direction to laid it down. Which side do i have to put it down. Keeping the motor in front of me with the handlebar on the right, oil window in the right side. Should i put it down right?
Giovanni, sorry for the late reply. I just noticed your question. The easiest way to remember is with the Honda laid down the tiller arm would ALWAYS be the highest point on the motor. The tiller arm would never be down on the floor. If you look on the side of the motor there us a small square shaped protrusion. That is the stand that you lay the motor on when it is on it's side. I hope that helps. Gerry
Ender, I buy ethanol free fuel and put fuel stabilizer in my gas can before I buy the gas so it is treated the second I buy it. I have never had to do any maintenance on the carb other than to grease the throttle fittings I showed in the video. I am in Central Florida so I do not have to winterize the carb either but since you buy ethanol free fuel, add stabilizer, then all you need to do turn off the fuel lever and run the motor until it is out fuel, remove the fuel bowl drain screw at the base of the carburetor to let the fuel still in the carb out, then get your snow shovel ready for your entire winter of hating you live in the cold where you do. I have no idea what "mechanical maintenance with detailed interior" means. Please explain. Gerry
I have a dumb question. Is there some sort of keeper for the prop if the shear pin breaks? It looks like the shear pin takes the load and the cotter pin keeps the prop on the shaft but if the shear pin breaks, then surely the cotter pin takes all the load and will shear also, and goodbye prop (does it float?). I was expecting that the prop could freewheel. Am I missing something?
Larry, it works just like any other propeller on any other small outboard. There is a cotter pin that keeps the prop on the shaft and a shear pin that keeps the prop turning with the shaft. If the shear pin breaks the prop spins freely but the prop stays on the shaft until you remove the cotter pin. I never tried to float the prop, likely is sinks like any other prop but I never checked. The Honda came with a spare shear pin and has a holder for extra pins on the motor. I purchased extra pins so my holder on the motor has more than one but I never needed any in the past four years. If you watch my video on doing a tune up for the Honda you will see me remove then replace the prop to check for string or debris under the prop. Gerry
To clarify, the cotter pin only has a load to keep the prop on the shaft. The shear pin takes the load of keeping the prop turning with the shaft. If the sheer pin breaks there is no more load on the prop cotter pin than there is before the shear pin breaks. If the shear pin is not broken but the cotter pin breaks then the prop can fall off the shaft at any time.
@@LunkerFishing I'm confused how it freewheels. How does the cotter pin hold the prop on the shaft? Is there a hole in the end of the shaft that the cotter pin goes in? (then it can't freewheel) or is there something that rides in a groove on the end of the shaft and some sort of key? or does the end of the shaft have a part that can freewheel that you need to line up with the cotter pin? It doesn't make sense yet to me. Thanks for educating me.
@@larrywiniarski1746, Under the prop there is a shear pin that goes through the metal shaft that is connected to the lower end. The prop has a slot on the underneath that slides over the shear pin when you slide the prop on the shaft. The shear pin keeps the prop connected to the metal shaft so when that metal shaft spins so does the prop. The section of the prop that protrudes the farthest to the rear has a hole where the cotter pin goes. When the shear pin breaks the cotter pin stays on the shaft. If the cotter pin and the shear pin were both broken the prop could fall off completely. You probably need to look at one to get a clear picture of how it works. Go to page 18 of the manual: cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/marine/pdf/manuals/00X31ZVA6040.pdf
Gary, I do not have a spare prop for the Honda. The only prop I bought was the reverse prop for the Port side trolling motor. Since they came out with the reverse prop pitch the started installing them on every new Twin Troller at the factory. Those that did not have a reverse prop on when we bought the TT had to buy one and install it themselves. (I have a video about me doing that) I know they make spare props for the Honda 2.3 but I am not sure where they sell them. I have run that prop through lots of vegetation but we do not have lots of wood, rocks, or concrete in Central Florida, just weeds. I probably should have one but never did get one. Some spare shear pins for the prop came with the Honda (stored under the motor on the front) but I bought more spares for that. I never needed them either. Gerry
Daryl, just below most of my newer videos you will see the words "SEE MORE". Click on that and you will see a link to the tiller extension I have. I would buy that one again if I needed to. Gerry
Jerry if the fuel cap and fuel switch are both in the off position can it be laid on the side without fuel leaking from the tank? I only took mine out once so far and it leaked fuel but I did not remember to turn the fuel switch off.
Lt., I was also a Lt for 13 years before retiring. I also belonged to two different fire companies when younger. If you turn off the fuel lever on the rear left of the Honda and close the vent on the fuel cap you can tip the motor to the horizontal position while still on the transom and fuel will not leak. You can also remove the Honda from the transom and lay it on the ground horizontally. Make sure you set it on the correct side ( handle up) or crankcase oil can leak out. Sounds like you may not have turned the fuel shutoff to the off position causing the carb to leak fuel. I hope that helps. Stay safe, Gerry
i was looking at hour meters, couple questions. do you know your model#, I want to makes sure what i order is thin enough. also, no connection other than wrapping is needed. Thanks again for your video
Ted, here is a link to mine, I hope that helps: czcams.com/users/redirect?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FMotorcycle-ATV-Mini-Hour-Meter-Honda-Yamaha-Suzuki-Kawasaki-High-Quality-IP68%2F273043326744%3F_trkparms%3Daid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIM.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D47300%2526meid%253Df649e14c80114fe5bb6115037c65b7d5%2526pid%253D100005%2526rk%253D5%2526rkt%253D6%2526sd%253D322604163722%2526itm%253D273043326744%26_trksid%3Dp2047675.c100005.m1851&event=comments&redir_token=S_vGq6C5hArmIJgCnD2QPhXvSFh8MTUzMjQ0Nzg4NUAxNTMyMzYxNDg1
Any tips on why my motor quit running unexpectedly? I could not restart it. I suspect carb/fuel got water in after rain? Do you have vid on carb service perhaps?
Snake, I do not have any videos but am quite experienced at small engines and I have some suggestions. Are you sure you did not forget to move the lever that allows the fuel to flow on the rear left of the engine cowl and make sure you did not forget to open the vent on the fuel cap? The motor will act exactly as you described if you do not do that. The fact that you are concerned about water in the carb or the fuel leads me to not suspect other things like bad fuel before the water/rain got there or dirt/foreign matter in the fuel? You talked about rain so I will go in that direction. If there was dirt in your system the passages in the carb is easy to become plugged. Lets assume that is not the problem. I always use non-ethanol fuel in all my small engines, especially the Honda outboard. I also use a fuel stabilizer in that fuel, always. Lets assume it is just a contaminated fuel system that introduced water and not dirt. At this point you need to remove all the old fuel from the tank and carb and that will remove the water. Siphon out the contents of the gas tank as best you can. I just looked at my Honda but cannot see the bottom of the carb to see if there is a drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl without taking my gas tank off. You can always remove the few nuts that hold the tank on, loosen the fuel line clamps and pull then drain the tank and the lines. Now you have to get the fuel out of the carb. If you do not want to pull the float bowl down (located on the bottom of the carb) or there is no drain screw, there is another way but slower and more tedious to drain the carb. Pull the spark plug out and keep pulling the starter rope many times until it is likely all the fuel has blown out of the spark plug hole and the carb is empty. Just to make sure this is not a spark problem when you think it is a fuel problem hold the spark plug, with the boot installed, against the threads to the spark plug hole but do not screw it in. Have someone pull the starter rope and watch to see if the spark plug is sparking strong across the spark plug gap. If there is a strong spark that system is OK. Now put the fuel system back together and reinstall the spark plug. Add FRESH CLEAN fuel and see if it starts. Remember the system is dry at this point so it may take a few pulls to get the fuel through the system before it will start. My guess is you will be fishing tomorrow. Let me know if that helps. Gerry
Lunker012 Thanks for all the tips. I am going to start by draining fuel and also replace the spark plug. I think rain came in at the vent that was open...
Hello twin troller owners. I live in Western Oregon and am wanting to look at a twin troller. I'm willing to drive up to 500 miles to see one. Would appreciate any help finding one to look at. Thank you for any help. Rocky in Oregon!
Ted Finkenauer I did not change any. I do not think you need to. Just make sure the surface they contact is clean so it seats correctly and does not leak. Gerry
Sorin Yes, but you cannot go water skiing behind it. That is about the size and weight of my boat and while it does not go fast enough to make you hang onto your hat it will get you there. Gerry
gary, I am not sure they recommend servicing a fuel filter or if it has one. If it does it likely is like a fuel filter like on a chain saw or leaf blower. You use a coat hanger or a wire bent with a hook on the end to hook the fuel line hose and pull it out of the tank. Then pull off the fuel filter, insert a new one on the hose, reinsert the filter and hose into the tank. Gerry
Pat, you could do that if you want to. If it was a metal prop it would be something you may want to do to make sure the metal shaft does not rust and fuse together with the metal prop then grease would be a good idea to stop that from occurring. You may even grease the pin to help that from rusting or even to keep it from falling out when installing the prop. In the video you see me install that pin when the holes in the shaft are horizontal to keep the pin in place until I install the propeller. Good question though Pat, if you feel more comfortable then by all means add a little grease there. Gerry
@@LunkerFishing im reading reviews, people say bolts rust fast, and somehow they say water gets in gas tank. thank you for your reply!!!!! i'm debating between yamaha 2.5 or this honda :)
Do you think your idle speed has changed? The prop engages when the engine speed increases. Are you talking about when the prop is in the water or if you started it out if the water? Gerry
I think it must be the idle speed because it occurs both when I first start the engine in the water at the ramp and also when I am returning to the dock after motoring in. Checked the Honda manual and didn't see anything about an idle adjustment screw like some larger engines have.
There are numerous videos on the net regarding this. if you don't have the proper tip for the bottom filler, its a mess, trust me I found out the hard way. I was able to find a filler tip that screws into the bottom screw hole that attaches to my oil pump. I start the top screw in the threads but make sure its just started as the air needs to escape there when pumping the oil in. Once you see oil seeping out the top screw, tighten the top screw. the lack of air in the system wont let the oil drain out of the bottom. Be prepared to work fast for the bottom screw. Remove the filler then quickly replace the bottom screw. A drop or two will escape but not enough to worry about. www.amazon.ca/Performance-Tool-W54150-Marine-Lower/dp/B00J4YL1RE?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_81h40z14z6_e
@@b1slum25, I just saw your reply. That is exactly the way I do this. They sell small hand pumps at most boat stores and on-line that allows you to pump the oil into the bottom hole them screw in the top and unscrew the pump from the bottom hole and quickly screw in the bottom hole. I have used the squeeze bottle in the past to fill the lower end in other motors but you must keep pressure against the lower screw or you will leak oil all over when squeezing the tube like tooth paste. The pumps have a screw in fitting and not a pressure fitting making doing this with the pump easier and less messy. Gerry
Enrique, I am not really sure what you are asking. Time of year or time of day? This time of the year (summer) I do not fish that much because it is too stinken hot in Central Florida and we have heavy thunderstorms almost daily. Time of day, I often fish early in the morning until afternoon in the boat. I literally just walked in the house after fishing on foot in one of our many retention lakes inside the community where I live. It is past sunset now so I came it. I am not sure I answered your question but I am not really sure what your question is. Gerry
How is this a tune up this is a general service no modification to the Engine to enhance performance ie. carb re jettingor reboring cylinder for bigger piston.
One comment Honda have gone all penny pinching as many of the bolts are NOT stainless so in time do corrode however there is a guy on Ebay who supplies stainless bolts for Honda 2.3hp motors.
@@LunkerFishing So true, but you completely misinterpreted the meaning of a FREE SOCIETY, and an honest and ethical society uses accurate language in order not to mislead people. Please look up what it means to live in a free society. In a free society, people can offend each other, but it is not wise to do so. I shall never offend you because I shall not let you be more educated than I am. If those who write engine manuals follow your philosophy of being free to call every engine part whatever they like, then no engine would ever be repaired. In your video. I must congratulate you that during your video you chose to call each part of that engine by its correct name, and I enjoyed your presentation. You did a good job and it is a pity that only 30,735 viewers saw your video since 31, December 2017.
Randall, Bearing Buddies allow you to grease the bearings without taking the hub apart. It is a spring loaded system that keeps positive pressure in the grease so it is constantly trying to squeeze into the bearings and not allow water to push back in. Boat trailers have difficulty with water getting into the bearings because you are driving to the launch, the bearings may be warm from the drive, and when you back them into the water the warm bearings cool, shrink, and can pull water into them. Bearing Buddies can help to stop that. They are a simple concept but generally help, especially for boat trailers in the long run. I hope that helps. Gerry
That "Pin" is called a Shear Pin--breaks when you might hit a solid object. Your Momma probably told you--Never Re-use a cotter pin--same as Looking both ways when you cross the street!!??
Dan, yes it is safe for saltwater however, like any other motor you need to do the same things to this motor as any other motor in saltwater. If you want to have it last you need to spray down the entire motor and the lower end with freshwater. One advantage of this motor to others in salt water is that it is air cooled. The largest area to deteriorate in saltwater is the cooling system in other motors. This motor does not take salt water inside to use as a coolant. Gerry
@@LunkerFishing Last question Gerry!!!!! from reading a lot of reviews on this engine, people complain that it is VERY loud. is the engine noise that bad? or it's fine not to the point where you have to wear headphones lol.
Dan, sorry for the late reply. I did not see the question. The Honda is a little louder than a water cooled motor but by no means do you need hearing protection. I have sensitive hearing and always use hearing protection mowing the lawn, on the range, or when I was a Captain for an airboat business. I do not feel the Honda is anywhere near the noise level of a lawn mower. Gerry
Great video Gerry, I'm thinking very seriously about purchasing one of these motors for my Nifty Boat (czcams.com/video/3kn5oSWrtjs/video.html). Maintenance has crossed my mind several times and then I discovered your vid. Thanks very much for your efforts - Peter V (Australia)
NOTE - NOTE - NOTE:
If you are interested I did an update video on servicing this motor after five years. Just go to my channel and do a search for:
HONDA 2.3 H.P. OUTBOARD MAINTENANCE AFTER FIVE YEARS and I did another called HOW TO SERVICE YOUR OUTBOARD.
How do you re-fill the gear lube on the lower end?
Petrus, there are two ways.
You can buy the lube in a tube that looks like a large tube of tooth paste or a plastic bottle with a spout at the top that you cut off the tip of the spout and squeeze it up into the bottom hole. When the lube starts to flow clear with minimal bubbles from the top hole insert the top screw. Then you remove the tube of lube from the bottom and quickly insert the bottom screw. You see me do that in my video. You must hold the tube tight against the bottom hole when squeezing the lube in or you will get a big mess.
They also make a small hand pump that screws into the top of the lube bottle that has a tube with a fitting on the end to attach to the bottom screw hole and you hand pump the lube the same say I just explained. The problem with my hand pump is that my fitting is too large to fit on the bottom hole but if you find one that has an adapter to fit that hole that is the easiest way and least messy way to do this.
Gerry
@@LunkerFishing Thanks a lot for your response!
I’ve watched several Honda OB videos and have read the manual inside out. Absolutely no comparison to this video. You cover it all. Thank you
Ted Finkenauer
Thank you for the kind words. I am glad it helped. Gerry
I appreciate your video. It is very unusual in this day and age for someone to do a video without a lot of vulgar language. Thank you for your good character.
Roger, I edited out what I said when I dropped a wrench on my foot! 🤣 Thanks for the kind words. Gerry
I hope Honda sent you a big check for making this video. I was about to sell my 2.3 Honda and decided to give it another shot. After doing everything on the video, it just came back to life. I will be saving this video to my favorites and just redoing this every once in a while. Awesome video!! Thank you.
Carlos, no check! Just the satisfaction of knowing I was able to help you. Gerry
thank you very much Gerry for this comprehensive video, I´m just in the middle of servíng my 2.3 Honda and this is very helpfull.
Cheers from Valencia/Spain
I am very glad it was helpful to you! Gerry
Wonderful video.
I watched it all. Two months ago, I bought a Honda BF 2.3. In May I will finally put it on my HONWAVE 3.0 AE and sail it to the local Mavrovo Lake.
Let me repeat: Great video - pretty useful
Good choice!
Great video. Here is a few hints regarding the oil change. Not sure why Honda put the drain screw there but it is what it is SO when I change the oil, I tile the motor over so the dirty oil doesn't run onto the handle. Also, there is exactly 250 mls or 1 cup of oil in the crank case (as per the manual). Dispense that amount into your pouring vessel and you will have the perfect amount EVERY TIME. Window is a great thing but when you have an exact amount from the manufacturer, I go with the manufacturer. Keep up the great videos
Great idea. The correct amount of oil needed is helpful, thanks. Gerry
Here is a link to the fact sheet. marine.honda.ca/portables/BF2_3 . Go the download sections.
A dollar store clear ketchup/condiment bottle works great as a dispenser. I marked the bottle at the level where 250cc is so now I can just fill to that mark and dispense.
I change the oil every 6 months. The manual says 50 hours but this little guy mostly makes short trips between 1/4 to 1/2 mile so I change it more often. 1 tank of gas = 1 hour more or less so that is my hour meter. We burn about a tank a week running between our sailboat and shore so really about 25 hours. The oil looks almost new when I change it.
Every time I have the fuel tank off I dump it into a clean 1 quart paint mixing cup and shake it out good to get any water hiding at the bottom of the tank There always is a few drops. Then I titrate the gas back into the tank using a baja funnel filter to get any crud or water out of it. If I found any yuck I pull the hose off of the tank and clean the little filter in there.
I also drain the carburator bowl as well as part of a service because there are usually a few drops of water in there too. The carb bowl is not very well galvanized and will rust if there is water left in there. I drain the carb if I am not going to run the engine for a week or more. Running it dry doesn't work so well. I've checked..There is still a lot left in there so I just drain it with the little drain screw. A paint mixing cup works great for catching the gas here too.
Gerry, glad you're back. Enjoy your videos. My wife and I are making plans to purchase a Twin Troller and we find your videos very informative in our decision-making.
Phillip and Mrs. Phillip, I think you will like the Twin Troller. After the initial purchase of the boat the cost of operating the TT is minimal and it satisfies all the needs of a fisherman plus you can take the Mrs. for a romantic boat ride on your favorite waters. Be careful, in my days being a bass fishing guide I found that the Mrs. usually catches more or the larger fish so always take pictures of your own large fish to have with you so you can defend your honor in a pinch. 😎 Gerry
I bought the Honda 2hp in 2000, I have always used it in salt water but not a heavy amount of hours, besides normal maintenance(plug, fluids, replacing the pull rope) I have had no problems with it. In 2016 I had forgotten to run the carb dry and empty the tank at the end of the season and it wouldn't start so I did a carb cleaning and intended to put a lot of new parts in it but the gas line was fine and still supple the carb parts looked fine so I put it back together and it started right up and no problems since and that was 5 years ago and no problems. I always run Seafoam in the gas and run it dry at the end of the season, I run synthetics in the oil and lower unit and change it about every 5 years. I cut up a bunch of 1/8" silicon bronze brazing rod for the prop shaft pins and carry 10 with me. (I carry a nail set and needle-nose pliers to get the broken parts out, a hard lesson learned) I am so glad I got the direct drive model so I can run at the lowest idle speed of about 2mph, I would have hated the clutch model as 2mph is the perfect trolling speed for me. It is the best little motor I have ever owned!
Sam, it sounds as if you have had good luck with your Honda. So have I. Gerry
@@LunkerFishing I have, I take care of my stuff.
I read that the new 2.3 models are made in China and folks have had some problems with them like vapor locks or gas cap issues, I don't know. I looked at a site recently that sells them and oddly, they are about the same price I paid 21 years ago! Also, I didn't see the direct drive model, I wonder if they don't make those anymore? I would never buy a clutch model.
Sam, I just noticed your reply. I am not sure where the 2.3 is made. I think all of the ones that come through FEM are the clutch model like mine. I have no problems with the clutch model.
I find that when I have not used the TT for a week or so I have trouble starting it at first until the fuel flows back into the carb, then it starts easily. I started opening the fuel shut off valve on the side of the motor and opening the vent on the cap when I arrive at the boat launch for a few minutes while preparing the boat. I always launch the boat with the Honda raised horizontal but shut off the fuel and close the cap vent. When I get into the water I lower the Honda back vertical open the fuel valve and open the vent on the cap and it starts easily then. Gerry
Hi Gerry, just got this Honda as my first outboard for my little inflatable for fishing and diving but bought it second hand so was very nervous about the potential state of it.. your video is so straight forward a baby could follow it. Thank you very much and I saw the fishing rods so as we say in New Zealand, tight lines. Simon
Simon, thank you for the nice comments. That Honda is a good motor and simpler than others because it is air cooled with less moving parts. I hope it works out for you.
Gerry
Appreciate the care and detail you give to all parts of your super nice boat and motor! Thanks for all the information.
Sharon, I appreciate the kind words. Helping others is what life is all about! Gerry
Very thorough if everyone did this very few would be caught out by breakdown two additional things I do is use some white waterproof grease on propeller shift and pin. And a couple of drips of 3 in 1 oil on the cable where they go into cable sheath.
Not a bad idea!
Thanks for taking the time to do this and sharing your knowledge - incredibly useful!
James, I am happy you found the information useful. Gerry
Great comprehensive video on maintenance for the 2.3 Honda, thanks.
Thanks, I have a newer video to also winterize the Honda. Gerry
Now cut the gas line and install a small gas filter between tank and carburetor, so you will never have a problem with your carburetor, good job, thanks
There is not enough room to do that but that is a good idea.
Wow i think your outboard will last 100,000 hours. Nicely done!
Thank you! Gerry
UPDATE: I should have posted this before. Prior to this tune-up I noticed I was not getting the same speed as I was in the past (just slightly lower) but after I did this tune-up it brought the performance of the motor back up to normal as when it was brand new. I guess it needed this more than I thought. Gerry
Lunker012 . I may have missed it, but how did you put gear oil back into the gear case? The manual states to add oil through the oil drain hole until the oil flows out the top hole! I don't have an oil pump adapter which is the reason I'm asking how did you do it. Thanks. John
Great video! Very helpful! Hint: An old toothbrush is a less messy way to apply grease.
Clay, it keeps you from getting covered with grease. Gerry
What a video! Did a great job! I don’t even own a Honda 2.3 but maybe one day.
Thanks Joe! Gerry
Great job! A real service for all of us. Many thanks.
Thanks Victor, I tried looking up this motor on the internet and found almost nothing so I figured others could use the information too. Gerry
Great video thanks for taking the time to record and explain the whole prosses I am hooked, and I subscribed to your channel. Thanks From George in Redondo Beach CA.
George Caceres, thanks and welcome! Gerry
Just today I noticed that the sprung leg holder upper was seized on my 2005 2hp Honda - consider putting this on the 15 year maintenance list 🤣
What is a sprung leg holder upper? Gerry
@@LunkerFishing it’s the shiny lever that holds up the leg (ie the propeller) when you tilt it out of the water. You pull the motor and raise it when you want to lower it again.
Wow, I never have had a problem with mine but I will keep an eye on it from now on.
Thanks for a very good video Gerry.. I'm sure your engine will last a long time. Regarding the noise level on the engine, do you think that air-cooled engines are noisier than water-cooled, what is your experience. Many thanks preben from Denmark.
Preben, yes air cooled are slightly noisier than water cooled but certainly quieter than a chain saw!
Hello to Denmark! Gerry
Being you have to lube the control arm by removing it from the body, perhaps you can change the oil with the arm off and prevent the mess of the oil running down. 😊. BY THE WAY I owned one of these about 15 years ago. I had it about 4 months and it was stolen.
Walter, Good point however, I found another way to easily change the oil that I will show in a future video on servicing this or any other motor. Stay tuned for that. Gerry
Grate video Gerry and I loved the music
William, funny you should say that. I have been criticized for having music in the background while talking because it interferes with people hearing what I have to say. Now I only have the music when I am not talking. Thanks for watching. Gerry
nice job i'm surprised you didn't change the lower unit oil thank you though
Joe, I do that once a year.
If you want to see the lower unit oil changed just go to my channel and do a search for:
HONDA 2.3 H.P. OUTBOARD MAINTENANCE AFTER FIVE YEARS Gerry
Watched this a few times before attempting my service and suddenly realised that despite being thorough and very methodical it does not seem to include re-filling the gear lube on the lower end.
David,
Remove both screws. Insert oil in bottom until oil exits top screw hole. Install top screw. Remove oil filler in lower hole and quickly install lower screw. Tighten both screws. Job done. I did record that but must have deleted it by accident. Thanks for pointing that out. Gerry
Thanks a million! I have another brand motor but, I think much of this will apply to it also. I have been following you for a year now and love my TT.
Rodney, I am thrilled to make contact with other TT owners. I learned so much over the years from other CZcamsrs that I try to give back to others when I can. What State are you in? Do you fish in small bodies of water or large? Keep fishing, but stay safe. Gerry
Lunker012 Gerry, I am in Indy. I mostly fish Eagle Creek Reservoir and smaller lakes etc. I have had several boats but the twin troller will be my last one because I am satisfied. I have a tohatsu 3.5 on the back and a helix 9 on the front. My boat is set up some what like yours. Thanks again for your videos............. twin troller x 10 IS THE GREATEST!!!!!!
Rodney, My guess is you are also fishing for smallmouth up there. I miss fishing for smallmouth but every summer I head back to family in Upstate NY and do some fishing up there, but it is too far from Florida to tow the TT up there, although I would love to fish in the lakes up there that way. Catch one for me. Gerry
Great video. How many people pay a dealer $100 to do this or just delay service?
On the lower unit drain/vent screws and the engine oil drain screw. When loosening if you tap the back of the screw driver slightly with a hammer while applying a little torque it relieves the pressure on the threads and insures ez removal, when tightening I go until it sets at about 5 inch lbs ant tap it once while torquing lightly.
Dlgeis, Great advice! Gerry
Great video! How is it on rainy days? Does the air cool vent suck up any water or water getting in the gas cap? Also do you use non ethanol gas?
I have had no problems with water getting into the vent hole on the gas cap but I always turn it off when the engine is stored and when tipping the engine to the horizontal position and my boat is garage kept. I treat my fuel when I buy it with a fuel stabilizer (usually SeaFoam) and always use non-ethanol fuel. This motor uses so little fuel it would be crazy not to treat it and use good gas. Good questions. Gerry
Hi There,this is the 2nd time that I watch your video ,and I have to say Good Job Sir Good Job ,there's a saying ,if you take care of your Outboard Motor ,it will last a very Long time ,Thank you .
Thanks and welcome to my channel! Gerry
Great Video .. how you compare this one with the Mercury 5 HP ?
Ibrahim, All motors operate the same as this one except you likely have a water cooled system on that Merc 5 hp while this motor is air cooled. That means there is an impeller inside the water pump that needs to be periodically replaced. You do that by removing the lower end, open the water pump, replace the impeller, and reinstall the lower end. You still need to change the lower end fluids, spark plugs, grease fittings and other lube points, and change the crankcase oil just like I did in this video. Your manual should show how to do all that. Gerry
possible bad grease fitting.👍
Excellent video and thanks a lot!
Did you ever hear a squeak in the Lower propeller linkage when turning the propeller? Or does being submerged in water handle that?
Bill, I do not turn the prop out of the water so I do not know how to answer you. Try removing the prop to make sure there is no fishing line or debris behind the prop and if not, try spinning the shaft with no prop on there and see if you hear the squeak then. If you do it is an issue in the lower end. Gerry
Lunker012 I have the long shaft model as it’s for a small sailboat ,squeak comes from the shaft extension linkage housing ,just serviced the motor after the first 10 hours ,I’ll ask the Honda guys still under warranty,thanks for the quick reply ,
Dealer said only turn prop clockwise ,chirp was impelers ( rubber ) squeaking against housing ( cools drive shaft)
Great video but how do I add the gear oil?.
Todd, You are the first to point that out. Apparently that was left on the cutting room floor when editing.
See the gear oil bottle at time stamp 1:27? Under the black cap there is a pointed nozzle. Snip off the tip of that nozzle so oil can be pushed out. Insert the nozzle into the bottom hole and squeeze until oil comes from the top but no more bubbles. Then continue holding the bottle in place while inserting the top screw and start that screw by hand for now. Remove the bottle and then insert the bottom screw QUICKLY and get it started also. Then tighten the top and bottom screws. You will always loose a small amount of oil but if you are organized and fast you will not lose much. You will do a much better job the next time you do this, next year.
Good luck, Gerry
Chock full of questions, this one on the types of grease. My grease gun has the blue marine grade which looks like what you use in yours. I have a can of white lithium grease, which I think you have in the tube. Is that correct? I also have food grade lubricant available. Will that cover it. Thanks again. I pick up a new detail each time I watch your video. Doing a 10 hour tuneup on my new Honda 2.3.
Ted Finkenauer
The marine grade is probably the best because it will stand up best in a wet environment. Gerry
Gerry, where do you get those gas containers and what are they called? Also, would be interesting to know how and the safe way using these type of containers, especially on the water! Thank you in advance! Gary
Great question!. I know I had someone ask me before in comments on another video but I looked, I cannot find it. The Honda holds 38 oz of gas in the on-board tank. The bottles I use are from Amazon and here is a current link to them:
www.amazon.com/dp/B0015I0GE6/ref=sxts_kp_tr_2?pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=q6tjs&pf_rd_r=B1CNHN3K1E0NVBX5CSHM&pd_rd_i=B0015I0GE6&pd_rd_w=btqoX&pd_rd_r=b2e33914-605a-458a-a89d-ca081cf6f60b&ie=UTF8&qid=1544838777&sr=2
They come is a few sizes but mine are the MSR Liquid Fuel Bottle 30 oz. at Amazon and right now they are $15.99 each for Prime members. I have two bottles in the boat when the Honda is on the back. Basically the Honda then has three tanks full of gas. One thing about those bottles is they have a wide enough opening that I do not need a funnel to pour into the Honda when on the water. If the weather is bad it may be a little tricky but most days I have no problem refueling.
TIP: The caps can usually be removed by hand but sometimes they become hard to open. You push down then twist but the O-ring under the cap could use some lubrication at times. I use either Super Lube or I also have a thicker paste. Both are a Silicone base and the paste I got from NAPA. I just apply a thin layer on the O-ring them put the cap on and off twice to spread the lube on the surfaces where the O-ring touches. After a few months when the cap starts to be difficult again I lube it again. I store both next to the transom on each side of the boat. (One right over the drain plug) They both stand upright there and never fall over.
Prior to buying them I contacted the company and they said they are OK for storing gasoline. Just leave a little room at the top for expansion. I did some research and found that many motorcycle owners have them for a reserve tank in case they run out of fuel. They often store them in their saddlebags without problems. I hope that helps. Gerry
question.
on these small motors, can you wait a year for the tune up?
and if using full synthetic oil, does that protect the engine better than regular oil?
I do the tune up once a year myself. Yes, I believe synthetic is better. Gerry
Looking good, Gerry!
Thanks David!
Fantastic details; much appreciated!
Yenra, hopefully we can all learn from each other. Gerry
Gerry, do you know if they make a stainless steel prop for this Honda 2.3hp? If so, any details where to get one? I would like to use it as the main prop and use the plastic one that came with the TwinTroller for a spare. Thanks! Gary
Gary,
I am not aware of a stainless prop for the 2.3 Honda. Honda could better shed some light on that but a stainless prop would be much heavier than the standard plastic or original prop. Weight is also a concern in a small boat. I have to think the prop that came with the motor may be designed as part of the safety system to this motor. SS has absolutely no give and if you strike something hard it may cause substantial damage to a motor that has relatively small components inside that the plastic prop may help to protect by flexing or even breaking. If you find one please let us all know here. Gerry
Thank You, no the maintenance is a peace of cake!
I am happy that the video was helpful to you. Thanks for the reply!
My 2.3 honda got backfire. Increase speed and bog down. What cause the problem.
Not enough information to make a response. That description could have so many causes. Bad fuel, fuel filter clogged, spark plug bad, Spark plug gap not right, spark plug wire bad, Carb settings off, Timing off, Valve clearance off, etc. etc. etc.
I love my 2.5 on my 7.5 inflatable though it weighs more than your 2.3
Ouch! Gerry
I use a outboard stand. Easy
Good for you! Gerry
Gerry, due to the warranty limit, a friend suggested that I should buy the outboard engine independently in Canada. I have the choice of using a Yamaha 2.5 hp and a Honda 2.3. I know the Yamaha 2.5 hp is 10 lbs heavier and water cooled. Do you have any advice for me?
Charley, my guess is that the water cooled Yamaha may have a longer life but that is a guess. Not sure if the extra .3 horse would make it run fast enough to offset the extra weight. I am not a small build so to a smaller person that extra weight in a heavier motor may not make a difference. There is also a concern that the extra weight is at the very rear of the TT but again, I am not sure what effect that may have. The only thing I do know is that the Honda 2.3 works well. It starts easy, runs well, is slightly loud, does not overheat, is easy to maintain, is easy to put on and off the TT due to it's light weight even on the water edge, and looks fine on the TT.
Without the experience of having other motors on a TT to know if they would be better I would be making an uneducated recommendation to you.
Either way, let us know what you get and if you like or dislike your choice. Good luck. Gerry
lunker012 Thank you, Gerry! Your response is very helpful. I will try to use my friend’s Yamaha 2.5 hp a few times and then decide which one I should purchase.
Charley, that makes more sense than anything I said. Great idea. Gerry
Hello Jerry, greetings from Italy. Thank you for the great work you did, I am going to follow all the procedure to replace engine oil. Actually I had an issue with my bf.2.3. I loaded into my car and laid from the wrong side…
and I had lots of oil going out and I was not able anymore to start it up. I guess some oil went into the engine because when I remove the spark-plug I see is wet and looks like some oil is in it. In any case I cannot run the engine anymore, it does not startup. So yesterday after I saw your video I drain all the engine oil from the screw as you shown in your video and now engine is totally empty, honestly I don’t know if I need to open up the engine to the pistons level to clean it up, if you have any advice would be really really appreciated.
Giovanni, do not open up the motor yet. Try some of the following. Get a new spark plug (or at least do a good job cleaning the old plug to remove all old oil and fuel) to put back in the crankcase.
Stand the motor back up and put it on a stand or the back of a boat transom, some place you can start it. Remove the spark plug and keep putting the starter rope until you do not have any oil squirting out of the spark plug hole. Pull that rope fast and many times to clear the oil and any fuel from the cylinder. Make sure you replace the crankcase oil to the normal level that leaked out when you put the moron on the wrong side. Connect the new plug to the wire but do not screw it back in yet. You or someone else hold the spark plug threads against the motor where the threads of the spark plug hole is. Pull the starter rope fast to see if you have spark. Make sure the kill switch is not disconnected and the throttle is in the start position on the throttle handle. If you do not have spark you have an electrical issue if you have spark you have a fuel issue, if you feel compression when puling the rope. If you have spark then now screw in the plug. Make sure you have fuel in the tank and the lever to allow fuel to enter the motor is on like you do every time you start the motor normally.
Try to start the motor as you normally do. If it still does not start let it sit and wait for another 1/2 hour in case it is flooded.
If it still does not start, pull the plug to see if it is wet. If it is wet it may be flooded, leave plug out and pull rope a bunch to clear it and dry/clean the plug again then reinsert it and try starting it again. If it was dry they you are not getting fuel.
If plug is dry squirt a small amount of fuel in the cylinder then put the plug back in and if it starts, or tries to, but will not continue to run you have a fuel/carburetor problem.
Let me know how it goes,
Gerry
Lunker012 thank you Gerry for the valuable hints. I will try these days and let you know how it goes. I was thinking to open the cylinder to clean but i prefer to avoid this. Will try as you recommend.
Lunker012 I fixed it thank you. Acrually I removed the filter to check and there were oil everywhere inside the carb, gasoline oil everywhere. I dismounted the carb and washed all with gasoline and mounted everything back. Then i followed your hints to get the oil out from the cylinder. Reinstalled the spark plug and at the first attempt the engine started. Its a good motor i like it. Mine lost the stickers to show the direction to laid it down. Which side do i have to put it down. Keeping the motor in front of me with the handlebar on the right, oil window in the right side. Should i put it down right?
Giovanni, sorry for the late reply. I just noticed your question. The easiest way to remember is with the Honda laid down the tiller arm would ALWAYS be the highest point on the motor. The tiller arm would never be down on the floor. If you look on the side of the motor there us a small square shaped protrusion. That is the stand that you lay the motor on when it is on it's side. I hope that helps. Gerry
Your video and detailed explanation helped. Thank you very much
good description ...
where is carburetor maintenance ... ??
mechanical maintenance with detailed interior
Ender, I buy ethanol free fuel and put fuel stabilizer in my gas can before I buy the gas so it is treated the second I buy it. I have never had to do any maintenance on the carb other than to grease the throttle fittings I showed in the video.
I am in Central Florida so I do not have to winterize the carb either but since you buy ethanol free fuel, add stabilizer, then all you need to do turn off the fuel lever and run the motor until it is out fuel, remove the fuel bowl drain screw at the base of the carburetor to let the fuel still in the carb out, then get your snow shovel ready for your entire winter of hating you live in the cold where you do.
I have no idea what "mechanical maintenance with detailed interior" means. Please explain. Gerry
I have a dumb question. Is there some sort of keeper for the prop if the shear pin breaks? It looks like the shear pin takes the load and the cotter pin keeps the prop
on the shaft but if the shear pin breaks, then surely the cotter pin takes all the load and will shear also, and goodbye prop (does it float?). I was expecting that the prop could freewheel. Am I missing something?
Larry, it works just like any other propeller on any other small outboard. There is a cotter pin that keeps the prop on the shaft and a shear pin that keeps the prop turning with the shaft. If the shear pin breaks the prop spins freely but the prop stays on the shaft until you remove the cotter pin. I never tried to float the prop, likely is sinks like any other prop but I never checked.
The Honda came with a spare shear pin and has a holder for extra pins on the motor. I purchased extra pins so my holder on the motor has more than one but I never needed any in the past four years.
If you watch my video on doing a tune up for the Honda you will see me remove then replace the prop to check for string or debris under the prop.
Gerry
To clarify, the cotter pin only has a load to keep the prop on the shaft. The shear pin takes the load of keeping the prop turning with the shaft. If the sheer pin breaks there is no more load on the prop cotter pin than there is before the shear pin breaks. If the shear pin is not broken but the cotter pin breaks then the prop can fall off the shaft at any time.
@@LunkerFishing I'm confused how it freewheels. How does the cotter pin hold the prop on the shaft? Is there a hole in the end of the shaft that the cotter pin goes in? (then it can't freewheel) or is there something that rides in a groove on the end of the shaft and some sort of key? or does the end of the shaft have a part that can freewheel that you need to line up with the cotter pin? It doesn't make sense yet to me. Thanks for educating me.
@@larrywiniarski1746, Under the prop there is a shear pin that goes through the metal shaft that is connected to the lower end. The prop has a slot on the underneath that slides over the shear pin when you slide the prop on the shaft. The shear pin keeps the prop connected to the metal shaft so when that metal shaft spins so does the prop.
The section of the prop that protrudes the farthest to the rear has a hole where the cotter pin goes. When the shear pin breaks the cotter pin stays on the shaft. If the cotter pin and the shear pin were both broken the prop could fall off completely.
You probably need to look at one to get a clear picture of how it works. Go to page 18 of the manual:
cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/marine/pdf/manuals/00X31ZVA6040.pdf
Gerry, where did you get your extra propeller for the Honda 2.3 for a spare? What was your cost, etc…Thanks! Gary
Gary, I do not have a spare prop for the Honda. The only prop I bought was the reverse prop for the Port side trolling motor. Since they came out with the reverse prop pitch the started installing them on every new Twin Troller at the factory. Those that did not have a reverse prop on when we bought the TT had to buy one and install it themselves. (I have a video about me doing that) I know they make spare props for the Honda 2.3 but I am not sure where they sell them. I have run that prop through lots of vegetation but we do not have lots of wood, rocks, or concrete in Central Florida, just weeds. I probably should have one but never did get one. Some spare shear pins for the prop came with the Honda (stored under the motor on the front) but I bought more spares for that. I never needed them either. Gerry
i got mine on boats.net for about 30 bucks and it came in a honda package.
Bob, I just noticed your comment. Thanks for the information. Gerry
This is very good
Thanks Eric. Gerry
You're welcome Gerry! I own a Honda bf2.3 as well and I am still learning about it
Erick, it is amazing what a 30 pound motor can do. I hope the video helps. Gerry
lunker012 indeed. I recently upgraded to a Saturn SD380 inflatable boat and this motor pushed it right along
Можно было при снятом румпеле масло из картера слить. Масло сливать лучше на прогретом двигателе.
Yes, on both issues! Gerry
Gerry, wondering which tiller extension handle you installed on your Honda 2.3 outboard? How do you like it? Any issues?
Daryl, just below most of my newer videos you will see the words "SEE MORE". Click on that and you will see a link to the tiller extension I have. I would buy that one again if I needed to. Gerry
Good Video 👍
Baltic Bushcraft, thanks for the nice words. Gerry
Jerry if the fuel cap and fuel switch are both in the off position can it be laid on the side without fuel leaking from the tank? I only took mine out once so far and it leaked fuel but I did not remember to turn the fuel switch off.
Lt., I was also a Lt for 13 years before retiring. I also belonged to two different fire companies when younger.
If you turn off the fuel lever on the rear left of the Honda and close the vent on the fuel cap you can tip the motor to the horizontal position while still on the transom and fuel will not leak. You can also remove the Honda from the transom and lay it on the ground horizontally. Make sure you set it on the correct side ( handle up) or crankcase oil can leak out.
Sounds like you may not have turned the fuel shutoff to the off position causing the carb to leak fuel.
I hope that helps.
Stay safe, Gerry
@@LunkerFishing did fire local? I'm in the central FL area also.
@@Lt.Fireguy, I belonged to two volunteer companies in Upstate NY and spend 25 years with NY State Corrections.
i was looking at hour meters, couple questions. do you know your model#, I want to makes sure what i order is thin enough. also, no connection other than wrapping is needed. Thanks again for your video
Ted, here is a link to mine, I hope that helps:
czcams.com/users/redirect?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FMotorcycle-ATV-Mini-Hour-Meter-Honda-Yamaha-Suzuki-Kawasaki-High-Quality-IP68%2F273043326744%3F_trkparms%3Daid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIM.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D47300%2526meid%253Df649e14c80114fe5bb6115037c65b7d5%2526pid%253D100005%2526rk%253D5%2526rkt%253D6%2526sd%253D322604163722%2526itm%253D273043326744%26_trksid%3Dp2047675.c100005.m1851&event=comments&redir_token=S_vGq6C5hArmIJgCnD2QPhXvSFh8MTUzMjQ0Nzg4NUAxNTMyMzYxNDg1
Any tips on why my motor quit running unexpectedly? I could not restart it. I suspect carb/fuel got water in after rain? Do you have vid on carb service perhaps?
Snake, I do not have any videos but am quite experienced at small engines and I have some suggestions. Are you sure you did not forget to move the lever that allows the fuel to flow on the rear left of the engine cowl and make sure you did not forget to open the vent on the fuel cap? The motor will act exactly as you described if you do not do that. The fact that you are concerned about water in the carb or the fuel leads me to not suspect other things like bad fuel before the water/rain got there or dirt/foreign matter in the fuel? You talked about rain so I will go in that direction. If there was dirt in your system the passages in the carb is easy to become plugged. Lets assume that is not the problem. I always use non-ethanol fuel in all my small engines, especially the Honda outboard. I also use a fuel stabilizer in that fuel, always.
Lets assume it is just a contaminated fuel system that introduced water and not dirt. At this point you need to remove all the old fuel from the tank and carb and that will remove the water. Siphon out the contents of the gas tank as best you can.
I just looked at my Honda but cannot see the bottom of the carb to see if there is a drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl without taking my gas tank off.
You can always remove the few nuts that hold the tank on, loosen the fuel line clamps and pull then drain the tank and the lines. Now you have to get the fuel out of the carb. If you do not want to pull the float bowl down (located on the bottom of the carb) or there is no drain screw, there is another way but slower and more tedious to drain the carb. Pull the spark plug out and keep pulling the starter rope many times until it is likely all the fuel has blown out of the spark plug hole and the carb is empty.
Just to make sure this is not a spark problem when you think it is a fuel problem hold the spark plug, with the boot installed, against the threads to the spark plug hole but do not screw it in. Have someone pull the starter rope and watch to see if the spark plug is sparking strong across the spark plug gap. If there is a strong spark that system is OK.
Now put the fuel system back together and reinstall the spark plug. Add FRESH CLEAN fuel and see if it starts. Remember the system is dry at this point so it may take a few pulls to get the fuel through the system before it will start. My guess is you will be fishing tomorrow.
Let me know if that helps. Gerry
Lunker012 Thanks for all the tips. I am going to start by draining fuel and also replace the spark plug. I think rain came in at the vent that was open...
Hello twin troller owners. I live in Western Oregon and am wanting to look at a twin troller. I'm willing to drive up to 500 miles to see one. Would appreciate any help finding one to look at. Thank you for any help. Rocky in Oregon!
Rocky, Have you been able to connect with someone so you can see a TT in person yet? Gerry
Hey Gerry, did you need to replace any washers when you changed the engine oil and the gear box oil? Thx
Ted Finkenauer
I did not change any. I do not think you need to. Just make sure the surface they contact is clean so it seats correctly and does not leak. Gerry
Hello, I want to buy this engine for a pneumatic boat. Can it push 250 kg? (2 people with fishing gear...)
Sorin Yes, but you cannot go water skiing behind it. That is about the size and weight of my boat and while it does not go fast enough to make you hang onto your hat it will get you there. Gerry
thanks for the reply
What about the fuel filter
gary, I am not sure they recommend servicing a fuel filter or if it has one. If it does it likely is like a fuel filter like on a chain saw or leaf blower. You use a coat hanger or a wire bent with a hook on the end to hook the fuel line hose and pull it out of the tank. Then pull off the fuel filter, insert a new one on the hose, reinsert the filter and hose into the tank. Gerry
Is it normal for the oil to gradually go down after several hours?
Yes, it is best to wait a while to test the oil level just like when you add oil to a car you have to wait a while to obtain an accurate reading.
@@LunkerFishing thanks i was loosing my mind after my first oil change lol
How long is the shaft on the Honda?
22inch?
The Honda 2.3 comes in two shaft lengths. The one that comes with the Twin Troller is 15" however, it can also be purchased with a 20" shaft. Gerry
Lunker012 thank you 👍
You didn't need to put any Marine grease on the little shaft that holds the shear pin and prop?
Pat, you could do that if you want to. If it was a metal prop it would be something you may want to do to make sure the metal shaft does not rust and fuse together with the metal prop then grease would be a good idea to stop that from occurring.
You may even grease the pin to help that from rusting or even to keep it from falling out when installing the prop. In the video you see me install that pin when the holes in the shaft are horizontal to keep the pin in place until I install the propeller.
Good question though Pat, if you feel more comfortable then by all means add a little grease there. Gerry
Thank you so much for your accurate and prompt response it means a lot to me just like your videoe, I learned so much ...I wish you the very best
nice video! how do you like this motor? reliable? is it true that it's made in china?????
Dan, almost six years and never a problem. I call that reliable! Gerry
@@LunkerFishing im reading reviews, people say bolts rust fast, and somehow they say water gets in gas tank. thank you for your reply!!!!! i'm debating between yamaha 2.5 or this honda :)
@@LunkerFishing can i use this motor in salt water?
prop still turns when in idle position. This is a new problem once I started using ethanol
free gas. Any ideas?
Do you think your idle speed has changed?
The prop engages when the engine speed increases. Are you talking about when the prop is in the water or if you started it out if the water? Gerry
I think it must be the idle speed because it occurs both when I first start the engine in the water at the ramp and also when I am returning to the dock after motoring in. Checked the Honda manual and didn't see anything about an idle adjustment screw like some larger engines have.
There are numerous videos on the net regarding this. if you don't have the proper tip for the bottom filler, its a mess, trust me I found out the hard way. I was able to find a filler tip that screws into the bottom screw hole that attaches to my oil pump. I start the top screw in the threads but make sure its just started as the air needs to escape there when pumping the oil in. Once you see oil seeping out the top screw, tighten the top screw. the lack of air in the system wont let the oil drain out of the bottom. Be prepared to work fast for the bottom screw. Remove the filler then quickly replace the bottom screw. A drop or two will escape but not enough to worry about. www.amazon.ca/Performance-Tool-W54150-Marine-Lower/dp/B00J4YL1RE?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_81h40z14z6_e
@@b1slum25, I just saw your reply. That is exactly the way I do this. They sell small hand pumps at most boat stores and on-line that allows you to pump the oil into the bottom hole them screw in the top and unscrew the pump from the bottom hole and quickly screw in the bottom hole. I have used the squeeze bottle in the past to fill the lower end in other motors but you must keep pressure against the lower screw or you will leak oil all over when squeezing the tube like tooth paste. The pumps have a screw in fitting and not a pressure fitting making doing this with the pump easier and less messy. Gerry
is a twin troller a boat or a personal water craft because it's under 16 feet ?
Bob, my registration and all my paperwork calls it a boat. Gerry
Does the twin troller take the honda with the 15" or 20" shaft?
15" Gerry
when do you fish?
Enrique, I am not really sure what you are asking. Time of year or time of day?
This time of the year (summer) I do not fish that much because it is too stinken hot in Central Florida and we have heavy thunderstorms almost daily.
Time of day, I often fish early in the morning until afternoon in the boat. I literally just walked in the house after fishing on foot in one of our many retention lakes inside the community where I live. It is past sunset now so I came it. I am not sure I answered your question but I am not really sure what your question is. Gerry
👍
How is this a tune up this is a general service no modification to the Engine to enhance performance ie. carb re jettingor reboring cylinder for bigger piston.
How is modifying the engine a tune up?
One comment Honda have gone all penny pinching as many of the bolts are NOT stainless so in time do corrode however there is a guy on Ebay who supplies stainless bolts for Honda 2.3hp motors.
Mine is over seven years old and not a single rusty bolt.
Where did you get the 10w-30 oil from
Randall, Local auto parts store. Do not remember which one. I do not remember it to be hard to find. Gerry
I would describe this as an excellent annual service, but it is not a " tune-up".
Carmel, one advantage of living in a free society is you can call it whatever you like. Gerry
@@LunkerFishing So true, but you completely misinterpreted the meaning of a FREE SOCIETY, and an honest and ethical society uses accurate language in order not to mislead people. Please look up what it means to live in a free society. In a free society, people can offend each other, but it is not wise to do so. I shall never offend you because I shall not let you be more educated than I am. If those who write engine manuals follow your philosophy of being free to call every engine part whatever they like, then no engine would ever be repaired. In your video. I must congratulate you that during your video you chose to call each part of that engine by its correct name, and I enjoyed your presentation. You did a good job and it is a pity that only 30,735 viewers saw your video since 31, December 2017.
Old mustard squeeze bottle
Sorry, fingers tripped before I said to put the new oil in.
Also I forgot what is the purpose of barring buddies for the trailer
Randall, Bearing Buddies allow you to grease the bearings without taking the hub apart. It is a spring loaded system that keeps positive pressure in the grease so it is constantly trying to squeeze into the bearings and not allow water to push back in. Boat trailers have difficulty with water getting into the bearings because you are driving to the launch, the bearings may be warm from the drive, and when you back them into the water the warm bearings cool, shrink, and can pull water into them. Bearing Buddies can help to stop that. They are a simple concept but generally help, especially for boat trailers in the long run. I hope that helps. Gerry
can you troll with this motor?
Sure you can.
@@LunkerFishing thanks
Link to hour counter?
www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-ATV-Mini-Hour-Meter-Honda-Yamaha-Suzuki-Kawasaki-High-Quality-IP68/273043326744?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D47300%26meid%3Df649e14c80114fe5bb6115037c65b7d5%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D322604163722%26itm%3D273043326744&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
remote fuel connection for the 2.3hp honda - czcams.com/video/5I_ysfO4Hhc/video.html
That "Pin" is called a Shear Pin--breaks when you might hit a solid object. Your Momma probably told you--Never Re-use a cotter pin--same as Looking both ways when you cross the street!!??
Mike, my mother never said anything about re-using a cotter pin.
is this motor safe in salt water?
Dan, yes it is safe for saltwater however, like any other motor you need to do the same things to this motor as any other motor in saltwater. If you want to have it last you need to spray down the entire motor and the lower end with freshwater. One advantage of this motor to others in salt water is that it is air cooled. The largest area to deteriorate in saltwater is the cooling system in other motors. This motor does not take salt water inside to use as a coolant. Gerry
@@LunkerFishing wow good point about the aircooling and water not coming in inside. thank you for your reply!
@@LunkerFishing Last question Gerry!!!!! from reading a lot of reviews on this engine, people complain that it is VERY loud.
is the engine noise that bad? or it's fine not to the point where you have to wear headphones lol.
Dan, sorry for the late reply. I did not see the question. The Honda is a little louder than a water cooled motor but by no means do you need hearing protection. I have sensitive hearing and always use hearing protection mowing the lawn, on the range, or when I was a Captain for an airboat business. I do not feel the Honda is anywhere near the noise level of a lawn mower. Gerry
Great video Gerry, I'm thinking very seriously about purchasing one of these motors for my Nifty Boat (czcams.com/video/3kn5oSWrtjs/video.html). Maintenance has crossed my mind several times and then I discovered your vid. Thanks very much for your efforts - Peter V (Australia)