Carbon fiber PLA how strong is it?
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2024
- On this episode of Crazy Will Tech Show, I’m taking a look at Carbon Fiber PLA and I wanted to know how strong is it? I went with a 3d Printing filament company I trust and have used in the past. TechBears has great line up of PLA and when I saw they made a carbon fiber filament for my 3-D printer, I was like buy it now! I wanted to figure out how strong it was. I put it up against the strongest filament that I have used so far,
which is DURAMIC 3D PLA Plus. DURAMIC is some strong stuff! I'm hoping the carbon fiber PLA will be stronger and lighter than the DURAMIC 3D PLA Plus. Let’s go into my garage and set up some pulleys with weights and see how strong the Carbon fiber PLA by TechBears really is.
TECBEARS Carbon Fiber PLA 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm Carbon Black, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, 1 Kg Spool, Pack of 1
www.amazon.com/dp/B0817XPPQM?...
DURAMIC 3D PLA Plus Filament 1.75mm Black 2 Pack, 1.75 PLA Pro 3D Printer Filament 8 Times Strength, 1kg Cardboard Spool 3D Printing Filament Dimensional Accuracy 99% +/- 0.03 mm
www.amazon.com/dp/B08HJ6RML7/... - Věda a technologie
Great vid my dude
Glad you enjoyed
Great vid! Subbed!
Awesome, thank you!
Loved the video. It help me not waste money on the Carbon Fiber PLA. I print mostly in PETG for my workshop. They last roll of PLA I printed was about a year ago. My son did a school project with those hooks, PLA vs PETG. The Regular PLA was about 1/2 the strength of what you got but the PETG. He got up to 85 lbs before it snapped. I was surprised.
You sound like a fun parent. What PETG did you use? I haven’t had any luck with that stuff. Always use PLA+.
@@CrazyWillTechShow Overture. I looked at my Overture account and Amazon, I am on my 169 roll. I have gotten 3 other rolls from somewhere else and didn't like it. Currently have 10 rolls sitting here. I do allot of prints for outdoor and RC Car rims so clients I have. PLA will not cut it for my specific needs.
1. It is easier to dedicate a machine for it but you do not have to. 2. If you don't dedicate a machine you have to level for PETG. It does not like allot of squish. 3. I used a glass bed like you use for PLA but flipped over to the smooth side. 4. Use glue stick so you can remove the print otherwise you might/will have issues. 5. I have an Ender 3 Pro so I run it at 10c under the max rating. For Overture I run at 240c and 80c on the bed. 6. Control the temperature around the printer. I have a fan in the room so I have it in an glass case made from 2 Ikea tables and keep it around about 28c in there. At 32c I start having heat creep on long prints.
Talking about the Ikea enclosure, I moved motherboard and controls outside the case. I love that this is like a center piece but I cannot get anything larger because it will not fit in my fancy enclosure.
And I slow it down to 50 mm/s. It is about strength not speed.
@@lostinseale Thanks for the info. sounds like a nice setup.
@@CrazyWillTechShowworks well for me. Got the printer in 2019 then covid gave me too much time on my hands. 😂
my problem with pla is when it gets hot, it melts especially mounts i built for my car. but this is old pla techonolgy. Im coming over from resin for more durable stuff on my new pla printer.
There are two reasons to use CF PLA (or CF PetG)
1. Optics
2. If you want more stiffness (more for the PetG-CF then PLA CF because PLA is quite stiff anyway)
Otherwise it's a pain in the ass:
Tends to clogg the nozzle
Need a 0.6 Nozzle
For PLA CF additionally: I always had a real mess in and around the Hotend
When I worked with PLA CF I disassembled my extruder 3 times and I even had to change the filament delivery gears because due to some hours of grinding on the filament it was worn. PetG CF worked better.
The only thing that was not a problem was what everybody says: You need a hardened steel nozzle ! No, you don't You can print 1kg filament with one brass nozzle which costs about 1$. And after a roll of any CF Filament it does not matter to change the nozzle because it's time to disassemble and thourougly clean the hotend anyway.
If I had not another roll of PLA-CF lying around I'd rather not use any CF Filament again.
It only had one advantage: I know my printer now and can repair anything that might break. And I learned that assembling the heatbreak and the nozzle with cooper paste does wonder for constant heat in the nozzle and none excessive heat on the ptfa tube.
When using a hardened nozzle you would need to add 10c. 220c are 210c in reality. My experience with cf filament are that they like to print hot. I print cf pla at 235c and with way less cooling then regular PLA. So I thing you need to raise the temps and lower the cooling to better the results.
I do a temperature tower for each filament… this did not like high temperatures. Honestly, it just wasn’t a good filament.
The stoppers on Ender 3 stoping the Ender bed from unveiling did you make them your self
No, they have a bunch of them on thing averse
I wish that I could continue with printing with 25% Carbon Fiber %75 Nylon but my Neptune 4 Max has issues with the heat-bed maintaining 80-90 Celsius before throwing a klipper software error and I have the latest from Elegoo. I was very impressed with the flex that nylon offers along with layer adhesion but that added strength of carbon fiber gave something way more than regular PLA but with that it requires more, so PLA+ seems to be the route for now
i have ender 3 pro and i bought this filament .. do you think i have to change the hotend to hardened one or the stander is good for it
I wouldn’t change it for this filament. I tried a lot of different things. I just don’t think it’s the right mixture of filament and carbon fiber.
can you test ceramic resin 3d print fluid, curious to see the test.
I’ll look into it.
Sorry, 17 seconds with those glasses was enough.
Bye 👋
Haha to each their own I suppose, I got a good laugh out of it and subbed 😂
Mr. Hogbooger, next time you pass by… why don’t you?
@@chrisyoung6728 hogbooger? What? Are you five?
Same
Some makers have said 90% infill is stronger than 100% but I have not tested for myself.
Really i’ll have to test that. This stuff just wasn’t strong at all.
Lol at 2:27 ghost gun checkkkk!
Lol 😂
I'm thinking the carbon fiber that is not full length fiber is not meant for strength but wearability like for gears more of a rubbing in friction strength than a pulling or weight strength . Now that you have done the test😂 thanks for the review
Fair enough!
Heat resistance is major. Does the CF resist warping? Does the CF resist crushing? Does it perform better under stresses around connection points? Did you go back and try with an increase in print temps to try and improve line adhesion? Too many variables not explored.
For me, it was strength and yes off camera I did my tests. The stuff was not good but you should buy it and tell me if you get different results.
There's other factors you have to put in beside tensile strength. Heat resistance and shock strength matters too.
I know, but I was more interested in strength. As far as heat resistance, it doesn’t have it. 3-D printed a heavy duty hanger and had it in my car during the summer and it warped badly.
HELLO SI have you any setting for that pepper gun handle
To be honest with you, I never got to work, right.
To be printed ,carbons fibers has to be so small that it does not help with strenght to much in fact it even has a tendency to add points of failure ,in the other hand it really help with friction carbon is a really good lubricant so if you have two pieces that need to slide or rotate in one an other it is the way to go, i personaly bought pla carbon fiber for a big projet where i needed both adpect sttenght and limited friction but it gave out on strengh so i came back to pla +
Nice video btw
Really appreciate your comment. That was my conclusion as well but people keep arguing with me about it.
So pla+ is best for strength? Ive been doing 3d printings for my airsoft
Ive been using the power test from Golem 3D to try to find settings for good layer adhesion on som CF PLAs. Ive tried two different brands, Eryone and Overture, and have not found any settings that give decent layer adhesion.
I think Im giving up on CF
Have you tried a glue stick? Yeah I'm not impressed with CF.
@@CrazyWillTechShow bed adhesion isnt an issue as long as youre at the right temp. I usually run 60c on the glass bed.
Its layer adhesion thats the problem. Not sure how a glue stick would help with that.
@@tyson822 my bad misread.
I know we are a while out from this video, but im pretty sure the carbon fiber actually helps with stiffness vs strength. Stiffer materials tend to be less strong, so any carbon fiber material should have less strength over its non carbon fiber counterpart. The reason they use them in car stuff is because cars need more stiffness, and they get the strength by adding a ton of thickness. It's lighter because they need less of it for the desired stiffness, it is ultimately less durable/strong than fiberglass though.
Thank you for the information. Very interesting. I just thought it was stronger plastic.
Is there a link for the file for the Mace gun?
I don’t remember which one I used but they’re all over thing averse
I want to know who is getting offended by a pepper spray gun LOL
Try Polymaker PA12-CF Nylon Filament
I'll check it out
Somebody online said never to print 100% infill, print only 90%. I do not know one way or the other though.
Yes, I keep seeing that as well. Make sense, leaves room for expansion.
I have never tried PLA+. Is it brittle?
No very strong I only buy PLA plus.
@@CrazyWillTechShow Thank you!
Duramic 3D really good.
Ever notice all older 3D printer dudes have weights laying around that they no longer use for exercise?
“A” I use them in the video!
Hey Will love your you tube videos , I'm little off topic but , I use a ton of filament from Duramic in my print farm , usually from Amazon . They were out of my colour so I ordered from their site online site , I've being charged but no idea what's going on I tried several times to contact them with the email from their site zero response , just wondered since you use Duramic who is your contact . Thanks & keep up the great content. Andre
I’m sorry my contact hasn’t responded to me in three months. Don’t know what’s going on. I would contact your credit card company and dispute the charge. I’ve gone through that myself with other companies.
Thank you
You need to really dry the pla cf before printing with it.
Tried that didn’t work I don’t think it’s the right mixture.
I love PLA+ or PLA-PRO but i heard is bad with heat or will melt easily
DURAMIC PLA plus is 220 on hot end. I’ve had really good luck with that stuff. Very strong.
allways use lots of supports at least will not waste fillment
Can't put on this channel = PEW PEW
So ridiculous 🙄 i’m not ashamed to say I like my guns 😈
@@CrazyWillTechShow such strange times we live in. I wish YT would go back to their policies from around 2013-14. Then we wouldn't have to self censor
@@CuttinInIdaho I have a video where I 3-D print Robocop’s gun and show you how to paint it. Video was demonetized. It’s a prop! Really!
@@CrazyWillTechShow Robocops gun is so cool. I bought a sig p250 a long time ago because it reminded me of the robocop gun even though its a modified 92fs i think
@@CuttinInIdaho nice! I so want a Beretta 92fs too. I like the sig 365 micro. I did get a mp5k copy Turkish one ap5m. That was my dream gun. Matrix.
So cf is basically a waste of time
I’ll sellout If duramic wants to send me samples
You would not be selling out stuff awesome!