The factory air duct is made of plastic and rubber .there are a lot of aftermarket air ducts made of plastic and rubber .so for all the haters. thumbs down
That is a really good idea, one thing people dosen't know or think about is heat transfer, we use the kits that use aluminum pipe to connect the box with the throttle body and the air inside gets hot from heat transfer from engine trough the pipe, pvc dosen't transfer heat that easily. Great video,
Hotter air would actually save more on gas, which is why manufacturers design the intake bafflers with such a large surface area (so they heat up and warm the air passing through them). Cold air allows for more fuel to burn. Warm air allows for less fuel to burn. Generally, colder intake air temperature (IAT) allows for more power with being able to burn more fuel. Generally, warmer IAT reduces power (improving fuel economy). There is a ton of misinformation on CAI and their impact on fuel economy. If the CAI results in an increase in fuel economy (accounting for all other variables), the most likely explanation is that the "CAI system" is actually introducing warmer air than OEM (additionally, reducing horsepower). This is easily explained by the reality of CAI systems (not yours in this case) often allowing air from the hot engine bay to enter the intake, whereas an OEM air intake (which your utilizing a section of) generally pulls colder air from a fender area or bumper area. More power does not equate to better fuel economy. In this video, you've removed intake baffling and replaced it with a pretty rough tube for air to travel through. The tubing has less surface area than the intake baffling, meaning it likely will not "heat up" the air as much as OEM, so maybe there is a marginal decrease in IAT in your modification here. If so, then you would be allowing marginally more air into the combustion chamber and allowing a wee bit more fuel to be burned (reducing fuel economy and increasing power).
Thank u for making the video "straight to the point"! No rambling & talking about B.S that doesn't pertain to the video! Best video on how to do this thus far! AND BEST OF ALL... IT WORKS!! RIGHT ON BRO!
I was always wondering how to direct that "tube" that you mentioning. I already have my set up for my DIY air filter, just the tube is the problem. Im not sure how to reconnect it
![DIY Cold Air Intake [Better Than K&N???]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A8A7UDMu2m4/mqdefault.jpg)
The factory air duct is made of plastic and rubber .there are a lot of aftermarket air ducts made of plastic and rubber .so for all the haters. thumbs down
does it sound like a toilet flushing when you floor it now
That is a really good idea, one thing people dosen't know or think about is heat transfer, we use the kits that use aluminum pipe to connect the box with the throttle body and the air inside gets hot from heat transfer from engine trough the pipe, pvc dosen't transfer heat that easily. Great video,
you did fine in my book,to hell with all the haters and besides metal retains heat longer than plastic.
Hotter air would actually save more on gas, which is why manufacturers design the intake bafflers with such a large surface area (so they heat up and warm the air passing through them). Cold air allows for more fuel to burn. Warm air allows for less fuel to burn. Generally, colder intake air temperature (IAT) allows for more power with being able to burn more fuel. Generally, warmer IAT reduces power (improving fuel economy). There is a ton of misinformation on CAI and their impact on fuel economy. If the CAI results in an increase in fuel economy (accounting for all other variables), the most likely explanation is that the "CAI system" is actually introducing warmer air than OEM (additionally, reducing horsepower). This is easily explained by the reality of CAI systems (not yours in this case) often allowing air from the hot engine bay to enter the intake, whereas an OEM air intake (which your utilizing a section of) generally pulls colder air from a fender area or bumper area. More power does not equate to better fuel economy. In this video, you've removed intake baffling and replaced it with a pretty rough tube for air to travel through. The tubing has less surface area than the intake baffling, meaning it likely will not "heat up" the air as much as OEM, so maybe there is a marginal decrease in IAT in your modification here. If so, then you would be allowing marginally more air into the combustion chamber and allowing a wee bit more fuel to be burned (reducing fuel economy and increasing power).
Not all heroes wear capes. Headed to lowes in the morning. Thanks
You can use schedule 40 black sewer pipe also and it doesn't have to be painted
YOU DIDNT EVEN START THE TRUCK SO WE CAN HEAR HOT IT SOUND
Stock airbox defeats the CAI theory.
Air filter part number?
Thank u for making the video "straight to the point"! No rambling & talking about B.S that doesn't pertain to the video! Best video on how to do this thus far! AND BEST OF ALL... IT WORKS!! RIGHT ON BRO!
Excellent DIY project, the thermal conductivity of PVC is 0.19 W/mK. so this is one of the best air intake tube I think.
That was awesome Mike...Thanks for this vid.
thank you!!! It was very helpful! keep up the good work!
Thank you for sharing Mike! I hope that you are doing well 🤔
Great Video...this actually worked on my 2001 yukon...
Thank you now I can adapt a newer intake and box for my Sonoma instead of the old school round air filter that sucks up hot air
Good job I really wanted to hear it run
cut the intake hole of the airbox to match it as well. it's 2 small holes that go in the fender. it helps
I was always wondering how to direct that "tube" that you mentioning. I already have my set up for my DIY air filter, just the tube is the problem. Im not sure how to reconnect it