James this is wonderful I just love these vids on people working on their boats, and I hate it when they cut the job short, I feel cheated so here's to your bravery taking this on as well as doing the work I really look forward to your adventure thanks......Oh just one "you don't wanna do it like that" comment you should always put some water into a PVA glue/sealer so that it penetrates into the fibers of the wood if you use it neat it just lays on the surface and peels off easily without doing it's job.
Had to replace the bathroom floor in my narrowboat because of rot. I've been worried about the rest of the floor since then, but having had a spill accident, I had to lift some laminate and the floor looks ok. So I don't blame you doing all this extra work now, the thought of having to remove everything to get the floor boards out isn't something I would want to do. Keep up the good work
For anyone looking at this after the event. Marine ply - BS1088 is more about the adhesive which is WBP (water and boil proof). Also the spec limits the amount of voids between the laminations, which you don't want if it gets wet and also it is normally specced as "good both sides" from a finish point of view. With all ply it is most important to seal the edges with a waterproof coating so it doesnt soak up any water. On wooden boats I always epoxy coat it. BS6566 ply is probably adequate for this application if it isn't to be seen as it doesnt need to have good faces. Cheers Mike (veteran wooden boatbuilder).
Just a tip if you are ever in a situation where you want to paint with a mini roller and don't have a tray, you can if the paint can isn't completely full use the inside of the can. Turn the roller on its side and roll around the inside, you may need to tip the can slightly to get some paint up the side, but it does work. Saves dripping loads all over the place.
There are sheets of stuff that are basically a plywood with a plastic layer over both sides. Often used for things like covering the inside of a pickup truck bed, so extremely outside, heavy duty applications. With either slightly corrugated or flat surfaces. Original intended purpose: concrete forms. You’d still have to treat the edges and you’d probably want to squirt some sealant into the screw holes just to be safe, but I think it’d be a lot less work. But I don’t know if it would last in this application.
I would have been tempted to stand them upright against the wall all the way down the boat, paint them, then when dry just lower it into position, if you dip your roller you can then use the lid to roll it out more evenly! Like a roller tray does!
If you want to seal timber floors like this properly, especially if they are not marine grade or WPB plywood use epoxy. Two coats will see them outlast the useful life of any boat. PVA including the so called waterproof variety isn't going to stop water ingress effectively. Sorry to be critical but as a boatbuilder I should know.
@@OldFloatingSeaman In damp conditions you don't really want anything but a total seal on the wood, therefore epoxy is the best product to provide that, no frame of reference for bitumen but I don't imagine it absorbs as well as epoxy. Especially if you are not using a ply that has been bonded with a waterproof adhesive. Rot and delamination are what you are trying to avoid. A plywood hull well coated with epoxy can stand many years of full immersion in water without any issues.
Hi James, the boat is looking great! Could you please tell me what those vertical clamp posts are called? Will be purchasing some for our upcoming fit out. Thanks !
Adam Mc Gowan This is what they are on in Screwfix - these were definitely the better of the 2 varieties I used FORGE STEEL EXTENDING SUPPORT RODS 2.9M 2 PACK (78272)
James is this the product you're using? www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/woodworking-101/tips-tricks/your-ultimate-guide-to-baltic-birch-plywood-why-its-better-when-to-use-it/ In Canada it's the go to choice for plywood without voids. It's great quality, strong and recommended by vendors for marine/exterior applications such as seats and benches even though it's not rated for marine use. I understand the glue is not waterproof.
James you deserve a medal! My boat was all floored and lined... 5 years on I still haven't finished! Keep going!
James this is wonderful I just love these vids on people working on their boats, and I hate it when they cut the job short, I feel cheated so here's to your bravery taking this on as well as doing the work I really look forward to your adventure thanks......Oh just one "you don't wanna do it like that" comment you should always put some water into a PVA glue/sealer so that it penetrates into the fibers of the wood if you use it neat it just lays on the surface and peels off easily without doing it's job.
James you have my motto when i haven't got the right tool is adapt and overcome. Take care mate.
dont you ever go to bed mate keep up the good work your doing a fine job
Bitumen === I can sleep soundly tonight. Good to see.
David Pratt that’s a relief to me too. I was hoping you’d come back say that’s ok 👍🏼
Love the blackboard at the end James 👍🏻
Had to replace the bathroom floor in my narrowboat because of rot. I've been worried about the rest of the floor since then, but having had a spill accident, I had to lift some laminate and the floor looks ok. So I don't blame you doing all this extra work now, the thought of having to remove everything to get the floor boards out isn't something I would want to do. Keep up the good work
dicantria glad to hear your floor was ok - that’s my worry - taking out the galley to fix the floor underneath - nightmare !!
For anyone looking at this after the event. Marine ply - BS1088 is more about the adhesive which is WBP (water and boil proof). Also the spec limits the amount of voids between the laminations, which you don't want if it gets wet and also it is normally specced as "good both sides" from a finish point of view. With all ply it is most important to seal the edges with a waterproof coating so it doesnt soak up any water. On wooden boats I always epoxy coat it. BS6566 ply is probably adequate for this application if it isn't to be seen as it doesnt need to have good faces. Cheers Mike (veteran wooden boatbuilder).
"I'm guessing this is the underside" - It is now :)
Hi James, I think with Marine Ply a more water resistant adhesive is used in its construction. (PJ)
Just a tip if you are ever in a situation where you want to paint with a mini roller and don't have a tray, you can if the paint can isn't completely full use the inside of the can. Turn the roller on its side and roll around the inside, you may need to tip the can slightly to get some paint up the side, but it does work. Saves dripping loads all over the place.
Loving how you are vlogging all stages of your work
Will the boat become your permanent home or for leisure?
Sam Collier most likely a perm home - I might rent it out for a few weeks a year too
There are sheets of stuff that are basically a plywood with a plastic layer over both sides. Often used for things like covering the inside of a pickup truck bed, so extremely outside, heavy duty applications. With either slightly corrugated or flat surfaces. Original intended purpose: concrete forms. You’d still have to treat the edges and you’d probably want to squirt some sealant into the screw holes just to be safe, but I think it’d be a lot less work. But I don’t know if it would last in this application.
Good job 👍
martin worrall cheers fella
I would have been tempted to stand them upright against the wall all the way down the boat, paint them, then when dry just lower it into position, if you dip your roller you can then use the lid to roll it out more evenly! Like a roller tray does!
Might a coat on the battons on floor be an idea? Just an idea. Keep the clips coming
matthew woodward those treated battens can live underwater and remain ok
Wondering that my self, lots of water resist treatment on the floor none on the joists.
👍👌🇨🇦❤
If you want to seal timber floors like this properly, especially if they are not marine grade or WPB plywood use epoxy. Two coats will see them outlast the useful life of any boat. PVA including the so called waterproof variety isn't going to stop water ingress effectively. Sorry to be critical but as a boatbuilder I should know.
Would the bitumen stop the wood breathing?
@@OldFloatingSeaman In damp conditions you don't really want anything but a total seal on the wood, therefore epoxy is the best product to provide that, no frame of reference for bitumen but I don't imagine it absorbs as well as epoxy. Especially if you are not using a ply that has been bonded with a waterproof adhesive. Rot and delamination are what you are trying to avoid. A plywood hull well coated with epoxy can stand many years of full immersion in water without any issues.
@@Dickie2702 any particular type of epoxy?? Taking notes for when it's my turn to do my fit out. TIA.
Hi James would a vapour barrier between floor and ballast be an idea? Sheet of dpm like in a house floor maybe.
Ray Smith I’ll be putting in a vapour barrier too - just undercovering for bathroom floor - hope it might work
Hi James, the boat is looking great! Could you please tell me what those vertical clamp posts are called? Will be purchasing some for our upcoming fit out.
Thanks !
Adam Mc Gowan
This is what they are on in Screwfix - these were definitely the better of the 2 varieties I used
FORGE STEEL EXTENDING SUPPORT RODS 2.9M 2 PACK (78272)
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt Thanks James, really appreciate the info!
James is this the product you're using? www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/woodworking-101/tips-tricks/your-ultimate-guide-to-baltic-birch-plywood-why-its-better-when-to-use-it/ In Canada it's the go to choice for plywood without voids. It's great quality, strong and recommended by vendors for marine/exterior applications such as seats and benches even though it's not rated for marine use. I understand the glue is not waterproof.
Really. Get it done on the way
You are a workhorse, do you ever stop.
esesa I had a little sleep last night, yes - thanks