I have to do this on my house, but I have the added headache of balloon framing. I like your use of the portapower. And I love how youtube keeps reminding of the work I'm putting off by recommending videos like this
Thanks for posting this. I have a sill plate to replace, and had no idea where to start. I subbed, because I feel I'm going to be watching this channel for many things. Thanks again
That jack is your golden ticket, at that rental property. A termite shield would be ideal, but you don't have enough height above the sidewalk.Good job carpenter★◆★TY Kevin C.
It's crazy how something as simple as not digging deep enough to put a proper gravel base on a patio cold essentially destroy a home. Thankfully you were able to address the issues.
Like the way you take time explaining it, allowing viewer to follow along. You made what could be a daunting job look relatively easy and thx for the tip on pre-drilling, definitely a difference maker. Also liked how you included the family, wife lending a hand ,kid playing outside., reminded me of the good ole days. Thanks
Appreciate your instructional video. I’ve got a small section of this behind a little concrete stoop. From inside where the rot is I see the concrete and it looks like nothing was in between, no barrier and obviously that’s why it rotted. Feel a little more confident after seeing this. Thank you 🙏
That's wonderful to hear Rickey. And thank you for taking the time to let me know. I take care of over 20 rental properties so I'm always fixing something lol.
Kevin, this is probably all too late to be helpful for you, but maybe for someone else... Screws to draw the blocking up into the floor is not a bad idea, but not to keep the blocking in place. And not gold screws, they are too brittle and will break and/or loosen up over time. Some beefy structural screws would be best. The blocking should actually be the same dimension as the joists, and secure the blocking with framing nails, maybe even joist hangers. Also add some subfloor adhesive to the top edge of the blocking. You can also see in the video that the subfloor is compromised. Pain in the butt to fix that, but it ain't gonna get better on it's own. Flashing underneath the sill plate is actually incorrect. The idea of flashing is to keep the water out completely as much as possible. Putting the flashing on top of the concrete is likely to allow water to get into the crawl space between the flashing and the foundation. There are liquid flashing products on the market that you can use to seal the joint between the rim joist and the foundation, or you can use the metal flashing but in either case the flashing must overlap the joint and then the siding overlaps the flashing. In addition, seal the ends of the joists, the outside of the rim joist, the the outside edge of the sill plate to help prevent having to replace those in the future. From your accent, I assume the home is in the south, where everything stays wet pretty much all the time. Not much you can do about that. The concrete patio should have been poured so that the water drained away from the house. Three things to remember about concrete: It's gray, It's hard, and it cracks. Over time, the soil under the concrete settled more than the soil around it which is why it cracked. Yes, crushed rock or gravel underneath might help with drainage, but eventually the concrete will settle and crack anyway. Obviously rebar would be helpful. I am dealing with the same issues with a home in Breckenridge, Colorado. The problem here is that snow is up against the sides of the home about five months out of the year. The home was built before building codes applied and whomever built it didn't bother to flash the sill plate or siding or much else for that matter. A mess. We will be spending lots of quality time in the crawly communing with the Black Widows and worms (yay!). TS
Great job Kevin! Seriously I thought for a minute does this guy have a clue and you kicked me in the teeth quick and said STFU brother. You did an amazing job
Oh wow, never seen a jack like that. Had to use good old bottle jacks and one farmers jack when I did it. Need to get myself one of those, just in case! Great vid :)
I’d only add that you should check your local codes to see what type of wood you should use as a ground contact/concrete contact. Some states have fermosan termites and require a specially treated wood, other states only require a borate treated wood. Thank you so much for this video I am replacing a sill plate on a 2,000 square foot home that is built into a hill, and I was just so happy to see that floor joists will hold for the space required to replace that darn sill plate.
It's best to avoid patio slabs butted up against a home entirely. Although popular, it is definitely a construction defect. Even if it doesn't cause your wooden parts to get wet, it can still trap lots of moisture in your basement etc. Non-cemented pavers is the way to go
at like 20 seconds in, you can see the water dripping from around the door down to the sill plate, thats my issue, whoever installed my door did it wrong without a head flashing and leaving near door exposed and can see sheathing . id check your door too and seal around it :) Thank you for the added knowledge for me to do this weekend :) @0:51 However you probably dont need a header flashing on your door because the distance from the top of the door to eaves is tiny. I read you want to have a header flashing on doors/windows if the overhang isnt at least 3x greater than that distance (from top of window/door to eaves)
I just want to say thank you for this video. I’ve got a bit of rot due to incorrectly installed porch. Was thinking I’d have to pay someone thousands to fix it. Luckily its only around a 5 foot section, after watching your video i feel that i can handle this myself for the cost of material and a weekend.
Put some moisture barrier on that new sill plate, and over the joist ends... also, be sure to caulk thoroughly between the concrete, and the new sill plate. Use an all weather extreme duty exterior silicone barrier seal, to keep insect infiltration to a minimum.
That slab has gotta go! That's what I told myself when it first came on screen. When you finally pulled the trigger at the ten min mark I cheered. Good looking work sir. A new deck with a nice lean to will be a great addition .
I wouldn't have replaced the slab at all, it will just create another water rot problem later on. Concrete slabs next to house foundation is usually a bad idea, and that goes for concrete driveways as well
Always pre drill my holes, for one the wood is junk and will split, 2 the screw will actually push itself off the attaching board, leaving a gap between the two pieces, not allowing tight clamping force.
There is gap between the sill and concrete footing. The flashing will simply allow water to flow vertically along it surface until it either runs between the sill plate and flashing (on the inside) of the flashing, or between the flashing and concrete footing along the outside surface of the flashing. There seemed to be some voids or cracks on the concrete footing as well. I can see why you pre-drilled. The screws looked to be at least 1/2 inch too small (looked like 3 inch instead of 3.5 inch or longer). Consequently, the receiving board got very little of the full screw diameter. Pre drilling is not going to improve pull out strength. The screws seemed to be for outdoor use but not for pressure treated lumber. Your approach on lifting was great as it was probably the most economical method ($150 tool)! Hopefully you will use a good caulk between the new slab and the wall to prevent rain driven water from the running down the wall.
Your flashing technique is more considered a termite shield and keeping sill plate from direct contact with concrete. Perhaps a PL sealant where the slab meets the wall. Waterproof and expandable. I have been using flex seal spray where concrete meets wood then wrap it. The ants and other critters hate it. Entry doors too. Coat that piece of conventional wood in the sill that holds T-nuts for adjustable sill. Those T-nuts are not rust free metal. Take out the insert and apply a little never-seiz and re install it. Shanked screws would also be helpful so threads don't work against themselves.
Great job on this! You’ve def given me the confidence to tackle mine as I’m building my deck. I’ve seen a lot of comments about not using flashing on PT wood so would you think using flashing stretch tape instead would be better? I’m the overbuilding type and don’t want to have to worry about this ever again is why I ask. Thanks again for this video!!
It was all going well there until I saw the batt insulation there in the crawl space on the subfloor… that’s a moisture and mold nightmare waiting to happen
I guess the codes have changed over the years I was just putting it back the way I found it from 40 years ago, But now that the concrete slab has been removed water will no longer be a problem. Thank you for contributing.
The best way would have been replace the concrete pad instead if a bandaid fix with cover...the second best way would've been to level out the concrete with a leveling concrete and and doing it that way. The third and becoming more poplar is having foan injecting level to level out the concrete
Should've went to a auto body store get some fiberglass raisin and hardner take a brush and prepaint the wood with it. Piece of mind that it won't rotten for many years.
Thank you for the kind words, and yes she is a 1 in a million for sure. Crawl spaces busted water lines she wont hesitate to help no mater what the mess is.
Looks like alot of the rot was at the door jam at the corner. You sure the sliding door is not allowing water to seep down onto the rim joist sill plate?
Good eyes there was 2 small screw holes that should have been plugged that may have let some water in. It won't now.. I now have a small wood deck so all should stay dry now.
How did you mechanically bind the sill plate to the concrete? Did you just set it back on the foundation with nothing tying it to the foundation? Seem kind of sketchy having that side of the house not tied to the foundation???
That little jaw jack thing came in handy. Where do you find that at? Never mind...found it in the list you made. Nice job. Did you use any exterior sealants between the flashing and the new wood in case water got in and puddled around the bend on the metal flashing?
Look into expanding foam concrete repair. You pre drill like an 8th inch hole and inject a type of expanding foam that raises the concrete again. Cheap simple fix for a rental sounds like. Cant speak for it though, never tried it and havent looked into it.
Good video but the screws you used are a bad example. You never use zinc nor metal screws on PT wood, exterior applications and areas that can be compromised by water or moisture. The proper screws are decking screws or hot dipped galvanized nails/screws. PT wood has chemicals embedded that will rot the wrong screw and nail before you know it. Also, I would of treated the concrete surface your mounting the 2x4 with a tar barrier first.
Thank you for the advice I have learned alot in my life by doing thinks wrong...lol but thats how we learn sometimes. I like to say I'm not a professional at nothing but I will attempt to fix anything.....
I was gonna say just tear the cement out instead of a lean to. A better fix then replacing it might have some gutters and a french drain. No use for that concrete to be honest.
This is the jack i used PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 4 ton Portable Hydraulic Equipment Kit Harbor freight # 60407 www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-portable-hydraulic-equipment-kit-60407.html But if you can afford it I would buy a 10 ton www.harborfreight.com/10-ton-portable-hydraulic-equipment-kit-62114.html
@@ktoutdoor Nice kit. I have to replace a sill plate this summer. I'll be going down under, lol. I bought a bottle jack. I dread it. It gets very tight where I have to go to do the repairs, corner of the house. Good work on your repair.
@@ktoutdoor Thanks for the vote of confidence. Maybe I'll post a short video. After I fix the sill plate I plan to make a cider press w/ the bottle jack :) I like that kit though, could come in handy.
Remove that sunken concrete patio floor-install a channel drain in front of it. Re install the patio with pavers sloped away from house. Pay me now or pay me later 😳
Looks like you put the flashing in just like it was before, and why didn't you push the sill plate in all the way under the ends of the joists? Or did you just not show that part?
The sill plate used was a 2x4 so half under the floor joist and half under the band board. Yes I put flashing on like before but now there will not be water trying to run under it.
Excellent video we appreciate you Tacoma Washington 🍀
I have to do this on my house, but I have the added headache of balloon framing. I like your use of the portapower. And I love how youtube keeps reminding of the work I'm putting off by recommending videos like this
I like honest hardworking people like yourself. Kudos on the project! Kinda stressed to start my sill plate replacement...
Thank you good luck with your project if you have any questions my cell is 606-875-0125 Kevin
Thanks for posting this. I have a sill plate to replace, and had no idea where to start. I subbed, because I feel I'm going to be watching this channel for many things. Thanks again
That jack is your golden ticket, at that rental property. A termite shield would be ideal, but you don't have enough height above the sidewalk.Good job carpenter★◆★TY Kevin C.
It's crazy how something as simple as not digging deep enough to put a proper gravel base on a patio cold essentially destroy a home. Thankfully you were able to address the issues.
Thanks for watching
Like the way you take time explaining it, allowing viewer to follow along. You made what could be a daunting job look relatively easy and thx for the tip on pre-drilling, definitely a difference maker. Also liked how you included the family, wife lending a hand ,kid playing outside., reminded me of the good ole days. Thanks
Thanks for leaving a comment 🙂 👍
@@ktoutdoor 🙂
Appreciate your instructional video. I’ve got a small section of this behind a little concrete stoop. From inside where the rot is I see the concrete and it looks like nothing was in between, no barrier and obviously that’s why it rotted. Feel a little more confident after seeing this. Thank you 🙏
Thanks for watching
So true about the predrilling. It's a shame these contractors don't consider that. Great job Kevin.
Thank you
I do repairs for a property management company and I want to tell you that because I watched this video you saved me a lot of time and money thanks
That's wonderful to hear Rickey. And thank you for taking the time to let me know. I take care of over 20 rental properties so I'm always fixing something lol.
Count your blessings that the joist tails were in good shape!
this is actually a VERY good repair, im super impressed, i had no idea there was a 'wedge type' 4 ton jack available for $150.
Thank for leaving a comment
That predrill tip and explanation was smart
That's cool. Great narration, and it is cool to see a lone person tackle a problem like this by themselves. Very inspiring. +1
Thank you for the kind words
Kevin, this is probably all too late to be helpful for you, but maybe for someone else...
Screws to draw the blocking up into the floor is not a bad idea, but not to keep the blocking in place. And not gold screws, they are too brittle and will break and/or loosen up over time. Some beefy structural screws would be best. The blocking should actually be the same dimension as the joists, and secure the blocking with framing nails, maybe even joist hangers. Also add some subfloor adhesive to the top edge of the blocking.
You can also see in the video that the subfloor is compromised. Pain in the butt to fix that, but it ain't gonna get better on it's own.
Flashing underneath the sill plate is actually incorrect. The idea of flashing is to keep the water out completely as much as possible. Putting the flashing on top of the concrete is likely to allow water to get into the crawl space between the flashing and the foundation. There are liquid flashing products on the market that you can use to seal the joint between the rim joist and the foundation, or you can use the metal flashing but in either case the flashing must overlap the joint and then the siding overlaps the flashing. In addition, seal the ends of the joists, the outside of the rim joist, the the outside edge of the sill plate to help prevent having to replace those in the future.
From your accent, I assume the home is in the south, where everything stays wet pretty much all the time. Not much you can do about that. The concrete patio should have been poured so that the water drained away from the house. Three things to remember about concrete: It's gray, It's hard, and it cracks. Over time, the soil under the concrete settled more than the soil around it which is why it cracked. Yes, crushed rock or gravel underneath might help with drainage, but eventually the concrete will settle and crack anyway. Obviously rebar would be helpful.
I am dealing with the same issues with a home in Breckenridge, Colorado. The problem here is that snow is up against the sides of the home about five months out of the year. The home was built before building codes applied and whomever built it didn't bother to flash the sill plate or siding or much else for that matter. A mess. We will be spending lots of quality time in the crawly communing with the Black Widows and worms (yay!).
TS
Thank you for your wealth of knowledge we got rid of the slab and built a wood deck now. Good luck with your project
@@ktoutdoor
Lots of good ideas and information here. I was thinking as I watched this you should get rid of that slab.
@@justgivemethetruth Yes we did now we have a wood deck there no more water problems
Good stuff. I need to my sill on my whole house
Great video!! More people should like it.
I agree Dustin: Thank you for watching have a blessed day.
Great job Kevin! Seriously I thought for a minute does this guy have a clue and you kicked me in the teeth quick and said STFU brother. You did an amazing job
Thank you but I was winging it as I went along, but it tuned out ok.
Oh wow, never seen a jack like that. Had to use good old bottle jacks and one farmers jack when I did it. Need to get myself one of those, just in case! Great vid :)
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment.
Great video, predrill is ingenious. Thank you
Thanks for leaving a comment
I’d only add that you should check your local codes to see what type of wood you should use as a ground contact/concrete contact. Some states have fermosan termites and require a specially treated wood, other states only require a borate treated wood.
Thank you so much for this video I am replacing a sill plate on a 2,000 square foot home that is built into a hill, and I was just so happy to see that floor joists will hold for the space required to replace that darn sill plate.
Thanks for the info good luck with your project be careful.
I live in Louisiana and have seen them boogers in creosote railroad ties.
@@zacharyward3123 i call them devil bugs they cost me a lot of money...lol
Good video. I'd never seen a jack like that one. Now I have. Surely I'll come up with an excuse to buy one ($150) before too long.
It's best to avoid patio slabs butted up against a home entirely. Although popular, it is definitely a construction defect. Even if it doesn't cause your wooden parts to get wet, it can still trap lots of moisture in your basement etc. Non-cemented pavers is the way to go
Thanks for sharing,, its all gone now we went back with a wood deck not attached to the house.
Excellent video and directives, thank you!!
at like 20 seconds in, you can see the water dripping from around the door down to the sill plate, thats my issue, whoever installed my door did it wrong without a head flashing and leaving near door exposed and can see sheathing . id check your door too and seal around it :) Thank you for the added knowledge for me to do this weekend :)
@0:51 However you probably dont need a header flashing on your door because the distance from the top of the door to eaves is tiny. I read you want to have a header flashing on doors/windows if the overhang isnt at least 3x greater than that distance (from top of window/door to eaves)
You are a talented dude
Thank you for the kind words, Have a blessed day!
I just want to say thank you for this video. I’ve got a bit of rot due to incorrectly installed porch. Was thinking I’d have to pay someone thousands to fix it. Luckily its only around a 5 foot section, after watching your video i feel that i can handle this myself for the cost of material and a weekend.
That's why I take the time to make these videos to encourage people to tackle repairs them selfs. And thank you for leaving a comment.
Put some moisture barrier on that new sill plate, and over the joist ends... also, be sure to caulk thoroughly between the concrete, and the new sill plate. Use an all weather extreme duty exterior silicone barrier seal, to keep insect infiltration to a minimum.
Thank you for contributing.
That slab has gotta go! That's what I told myself when it first came on screen. When you finally pulled the trigger at the ten min mark I cheered. Good looking work sir. A new deck with a nice lean to will be a great addition .
Yes it was a learning experience still waiting for contractor to pour new slab .. thanks for watching. the price of treated lumber is very high now..
I wouldn't have replaced the slab at all, it will just create another water rot problem later on. Concrete slabs next to house foundation is usually a bad idea, and that goes for concrete driveways as well
Good video
Always pre drill my holes, for one the wood is junk and will split, 2 the screw will actually push itself off the attaching board, leaving a gap between the two pieces, not allowing tight clamping force.
Thank you for contributing.
Just a note. Aluminum flashing and treated wood don't go together. Electrolysis will eat the aluminum up! (Ask me how I know!)
how do you know
There is gap between the sill and concrete footing. The flashing will simply allow water to flow vertically along it surface until it either runs between the sill plate and flashing (on the inside) of the flashing, or between the flashing and concrete footing along the outside surface of the flashing. There seemed to be some voids or cracks on the concrete footing as well. I can see why you pre-drilled. The screws looked to be at least 1/2 inch too small (looked like 3 inch instead of 3.5 inch or longer). Consequently, the receiving board got very little of the full screw diameter. Pre drilling is not going to improve pull out strength. The screws seemed to be for outdoor use but not for pressure treated lumber. Your approach on lifting was great as it was probably the most economical method ($150 tool)! Hopefully you will use a good caulk between the new slab and the wall to prevent rain driven water from the running down the wall.
So that's where those post office boxes went to!
Your flashing technique is more considered a termite shield and keeping sill plate from direct contact with concrete.
Perhaps a PL sealant where the slab meets the wall. Waterproof and expandable.
I have been using flex seal spray where concrete meets wood then wrap it.
The ants and other critters hate it.
Entry doors too. Coat that piece of conventional wood in the sill that holds T-nuts for adjustable sill. Those T-nuts are not rust free metal. Take out the insert and apply a little never-seiz and re install it.
Shanked screws would also be helpful so threads don't work against themselves.
That's a epic job my friend
If I can do it anyone can...lol
Lot of work to do that. Best thing is remove the concrete slab and redo just like you did good job 👏
Thanks 👍
Great job on this! You’ve def given me the confidence to tackle mine as I’m building my deck. I’ve seen a lot of comments about not using flashing on PT wood so would you think using flashing stretch tape instead would be better? I’m the overbuilding type and don’t want to have to worry about this ever again is why I ask. Thanks again for this video!!
It was all going well there until I saw the batt insulation there in the crawl space on the subfloor… that’s a moisture and mold nightmare waiting to happen
What would be the alternative? All houses around here are built this way.
Gonna have same issues with that method of flashing. I’ve watched. A few videos , you need that membrane but I’m sure you will be fine
I guess the codes have changed over the years I was just putting it back the way I found it from 40 years ago, But now that the concrete slab has been removed water will no longer be a problem. Thank you for contributing.
On my house I'm needing to replace my sill plat but on a section parallel to the joists. Is that any easier?
The best way would have been replace the concrete pad instead if a bandaid fix with cover...the second best way would've been to level out the concrete with a leveling concrete and and doing it that way. The third and becoming more poplar is having foan injecting level to level out the concrete
Yes pouring new slab come spring
All that concrete dust goin into your a/c unit!
Yes I have sense cleaned it out after removing the concrete then we had nothing but mud.. all is good now with a new wood deck.
I would have used treated wood myself!
Yes the sill plate is treated the band board was not.
You cannot use treated lumber that will come into contact with aluminium. It causes a chemical reaction and destroys the wood
THANKS FOR SHARING
How do you get rid of the old concrete, where do you take it?
I took it to a local sinkhole make a post on Facebook someone will have a use for it.
Should've went to a auto body store get some fiberglass raisin and hardner take a brush and prepaint the wood with it. Piece of mind that it won't rotten for many years.
It looks like he used pressure treated wood, which should also not rot.
Great video. Why didn’t you just pour a new layer of concrete over the existing porch and slope it away from the house?
The price for concrete is crazy high so I built a small wood deck for $400.00 something I can do my self.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for leaving a comment
Good job. Saved yourself $1000s. Good choice of a wife too. Not only pretty but she can tote a load.
Thank you for the kind words, and yes she is a 1 in a million for sure. Crawl spaces busted water lines she wont hesitate to help no mater what the mess is.
Don’t you need a piece of counter flashing over the piece you put in?
Not sure I just put it back the way I found it...?? that's how it was done 40 years ago
You ca lift the concrete and slope it away from the house.Drill hole and shoot foam to lift.Wofks great.Have to control the water.
Got rid of the slab and built a wood deck
Looks like alot of the rot was at the door jam at the corner. You sure the sliding door is not allowing water to seep down onto the rim joist sill plate?
Good eyes there was 2 small screw holes that should have been plugged that may have let some water in. It won't now.. I now have a small wood deck so all should stay dry now.
Self leveling concrete would work to re- route the water
We replaced the concrete with a wood deck so no more water trouble.
How did you mechanically bind the sill plate to the concrete? Did you just set it back on the foundation with nothing tying it to the foundation? Seem kind of sketchy having that side of the house not tied to the foundation???
I would have put contractors adhesive on those support cross boards to keep it from future squeaking .
Good Ideal
Can you raise and level the slab by using foam under it?
House wrap needs to be lapping over that metal and metal should not be up catching should be down shedding. I think.
why did you not go with foam leveling for the patio?
Concrete was to far gone i built a deck in its place
Damn good job
Thank you
That little jaw jack thing came in handy. Where do you find that at?
Never mind...found it in the list you made. Nice job.
Did you use any exterior sealants between the flashing and the new wood in case water got in and puddled around the bend on the metal flashing?
No I got rid of the slab and went back with a wood deck so water cant run toward the house anymore. All is dry now
@@ktoutdoor skinning cats. Always more than one way.
Mud jacking the slab would probably cost under $500....
Look into expanding foam concrete repair. You pre drill like an 8th inch hole and inject a type of expanding foam that raises the concrete again. Cheap simple fix for a rental sounds like. Cant speak for it though, never tried it and havent looked into it.
Looks interesting another form of Hydraulic or mud jacking ...
Good video but the screws you used are a bad example.
You never use zinc nor metal screws on PT wood, exterior applications and areas that can be compromised by water or moisture.
The proper screws are decking screws or hot dipped galvanized nails/screws.
PT wood has chemicals embedded that will rot the wrong screw and nail before you know it.
Also, I would of treated the concrete surface your mounting the 2x4 with a tar barrier first.
Thank you for the advice I have learned alot in my life by doing thinks wrong...lol but thats how we learn sometimes. I like to say I'm not a professional at nothing but I will attempt to fix anything.....
You’re an awesome handyman!!
And I see you take pride in your work🤙🏼. Salutes to you brother
@@tonyaction5284 Thank you for the kind words have a blessed day
Could you have pulled the blocks and wedges before reapplying the band board? Great job either way👏
No it was a tight fit with it jacked up, and i wanted the floor to push the band board down tight to the sill plate then install the screws after.
Slab is shot...you need 2in min by code from sill plate to flatwork.
Yes slab is now gone replace with a treated wooden deck.
What kind of ram spreader do you have. All the ones I’m finding online say 1/2 ton limit. Thanks.
This is the one I used not sure of its limits but it worked
www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-portable-hydraulic-equipment-kit-60407.html
I was gonna say just tear the cement out instead of a lean to. A better fix then replacing it might have some gutters and a french drain. No use for that concrete to be honest.
I went back with a small deck.
No more concrete
what size jack is that? 20 ton?
This is the jack i used
PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE
4 ton Portable Hydraulic Equipment Kit Harbor freight # 60407
www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-portable-hydraulic-equipment-kit-60407.html
But if you can afford it I would buy a 10 ton
www.harborfreight.com/10-ton-portable-hydraulic-equipment-kit-62114.html
Is treating lumber yourself as good as treated ?
And should you jack every 4 feet ?
I did not know that was even possible ? at least every 4 feet
What is the name of the tool used to jack up the joist? What do you call it? Thanks!
Here you go 4 or 10 ton
www.amazon.com/dp/B07SRC2LWL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_RKBFRAQCHHA1PD7B25BW?psc=1
@@ktoutdoor Nice kit. I have to replace a sill plate this summer. I'll be going down under, lol. I bought a bottle jack. I dread it. It gets very tight where I have to go to do the repairs, corner of the house. Good work on your repair.
@@NotitiaRecolligo YOU CAN DO IT!!!
@@ktoutdoor Thanks for the vote of confidence. Maybe I'll post a short video. After I fix the sill plate I plan to make a cider press w/ the bottle jack :) I like that kit though, could come in handy.
So I can’t just paint over it?
lol some would I'm sure
Remove that sunken concrete patio floor-install a channel drain in front of it. Re install the patio with pavers sloped away from house. Pay me now or pay me later 😳
All has been done removed all concrete new deck out of treated lumber.
Looks like you put the flashing in just like it was before, and why didn't you push the sill plate in all the way under the ends of the joists? Or did you just not show that part?
The sill plate used was a 2x4 so half under the floor joist and half under the band board. Yes I put flashing on like before but now there will not be water trying to run under it.
You should have filled the blocks full of concrete and rebar since you had the plate off.
Get rid of the concrete, poor new concrete, end of story.......
I did, it has a wood deck now
2x6 for sillplates