RIM JOIST / SILL; REPLACEMENT (CONCRETE STEPS/PORCH ENT./ EP#2)
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- čas přidán 10. 08. 2020
- In the first video on this project I use the 843 Bobcat to remove a large concrete pad and concrete steps from a front entrance/raised patio. The lower supporting foundation is damaged and the steps are sinking into the block wall. This has caused a water intrusion problem along with damage to sill plate & rim joist. In this video I removed the damaged rim joist and sill plate. New replacement boards are installed, mortar work is performed on the lower exposed section of the foundation, and the wall is prepped for back filling. No more exposed hole!! Unfortunately the repair in its entirety could not be included in this video. It was getting rather lengthy. The installation of the tar flashing, furring strips and replacement siding will be covered in another video. I included a product link to the pry bar used in this video. This is an affiliate link and I will receive a small commission if you purchase the item.
Extendable Pry Bar (game changer!):
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Comparable Vib / Osc Tool:
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/ @flatthunder
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. The item does not cost more if you navigate to the product via the supplied link. Note I did not receive discounts on this product prior to creating this video. I paid the full price and I think it is a quality piece of equipment. The small commission I would receive helps me continue to make quality content. Thank you for the support! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Was only here to see the sill/rim joist replacement and ended up watching the whole vid. Awesome work!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Good work, I have one suggestion. You want to separate the sill plate from the concrete with a membrane so the wood doesn’t take on the direct moisture the concrete wicks.
Thanks! Yes, I have heard of others discussing a foam membrane. It sounds like a good idea! Thanks for watching and sharing! 👍😁
Awesome work. I’m currently dealing with the same issue but worse and in a few different spots. I’ve been a nervous wreck and thought about selling the house because my brother made it out to be the end of the world. I watched this video and now I think I’m gonna attempt to fix it. Thank you
Thanks! If you approach it one small piece at a time it will be more manageable and feel less overwhelming. Be safe and ensure everything is properly supported during the process. You can do it! Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Thanks looking forward to seeing the flashing and siding replacement. Very helpful
Cheers Chet
Hi Chet! The video is available on the channel. I don't know if I mention it in the video, but they make special pre made wraps / flashing pans for under the door threshold. They are ideal. I used a different approach to avoid removing the door. Thanks for watching! Cheers 👍😁
This was great man! Thanks for sharing with good explanations and detail 👍🏾
Thanks for watching! Happy Holidays 👍😁
Look at that..im here today cuz my previous owners didnt flash the decks lol...got about 25-30' of the rim/sill plate to replace....fun stuff
Bummer..... More than double the repair required in this video. Decks are a pretty common problem area for several houses. People just slap a ledger board on the house and let'er rot. Best of luck on the repair! 👍😁
Great job! Very helpful with current rotten section of wall bearing floor at bearer and joist level. Thanks.
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on the repair and thanks for watching! 👍😁
As soon as you opened the black tar crow in the background started chirping
Great video - thanks
Haha I didn't catch that until now! The old tar was some super nasty stuff 🤢. Thanks for watching! Cheers, 👍😁
I know this was uploaded a while ago, but you just got a new sub. I just replaced a joist under my crawlspace this past weekend and might need to replace the rim plate next. This was really helpful. Thanks!
Thank you! I'm happy when my videos are helpful to others. I hope your repair goes well and thanks for watching! 👍😁
Great job showing the jack posts and view looking outside from the basement. Relieving the pressure from the joists had to make it much easier to pry the face board. Keep up the good work.
Thank you and thanks for watching! I'm shooting for new videos every Wednesday. Not all carpentry type work, but similar DIY repairs / mechanics 👍😁
Great video; thanks for posting!
Welcome! Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Great work. Admire the patience!
Thank you! Thanks for watching. Cheers 👍😁
Nice video on removing and replacing mudsill and rim joist.
Thanks! I appreciate you taking time to watch and share. Cheers 👍😁
I'm glad you didn't have to sacrifice any fingers due to tar on your hands. That's a very good trick to know with the WD-40!
Haha... It's doesn't destroy your skin like other solvents. Pro tip you can use it on 'most' vehicles to remove tar without damaging the paint. Be sure to spot test. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Just bought my first home a day looking to remove the concrete porch in the front and back. I want to replace with wooden decks as well. This gives me some motivation that I will be able to complete the task.
Excellent! If you tackle it one piece at a time anything is possible. I recommend installing the deck free floating; ie without attaching it directly to the house with a ledger board. This is the best way to reduce water intrusion from deck installations (in my opinion). Thanks for watching and congratulations on your new home! 👍😁
Great project guy!
Thanks! 👍😁
Great work!💪👍
Thanks for watching! 👍😁
I had a contractor pull off my old d close and found it hadn’t been flashed. Watched him replace the rim and sill and was fascinated how fast he did it. He cut it with a reciprocating saw into small sections between each hoist then hammered them back halfway off the foundation block, took new sill and hammered it into place while the old one knocked out into the crawlspace floor and cleaned it up. He did it so fast I was amazed. I had seen people do them by jacking the joists up etc. This way was quick and the floor stayed the same level then he cut the new band board and was done
Good idea! I probably would still install supports just out of extra redundancy/paranoia, but this could work! Thanks for sharing and watching. Cheers, 👍😁
Thank for ur video. I have the same issue. I will fix my house. Thank u again.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching and best of luck on the repair. 👍😁
My buddy just did a job like this last summer at his mother's house. Home builders never protected the rim joist from the elements and attached a deck directly to it. Snow and rain had nowhere to go and just sat there. After about 15 years her rim joist along the deck was pretty much gone from rot. My poor buddy spent most of his spare time replacing the rim joist and ledger of deck that had rotted then he rebuilt the deck.
Lots of builders fail to flash in the deck correctly. I prefer omitting the ledger board and spacing the deck slightly away from the house. It's a little more expensive, but provides a space for the water to drain. This is definitely a time consuming project! Thanks for watching and sharing! 👍😁
Great job, liked video just enough dialogue without a lot of yacking like some others do.
Thanks! Oddly enough when I originally created this video I thought it was going to flop. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Thanks for this video… currently dealing with the sand issues. We were told we need to remove the concrete porch in order start the repairs
You are welcome! Check out some of my other videos. I believe I dismantled my concrete pad in one. Thanks for watching and best of luck on the repairs! 👍😁
@@FlatThunder will do. Thank you
Good job sir.
Thank you! I wish you the best in your repair project! Thanks for watching! 👍😁
I didn’t hear you say how awesome is that bobcat? Lol. Great video bro!
Thanks! Haha......One of the best tools I have ever owned! Thanks for watching 👍😁
hey thanks for the video. very helpful. I have to replace the sill plate and rim joist (face board as you called it) on my son's house he just bought due to water and termite damage. It's 90 years old. I see you just supported the joists and pried out the old sill. I thought I'd have to lift the joists another 1/2" or so up to get the sill plate out. I was also concerned about taking the rim joist off in case the joists would go crooked or something. I was thinking of working in about 4' sections on ours. we still have to rent a jackhammer to remove the concrete that was poured up next to the house. probably why there was water damage.
Sorry for the delayed response. I thought I replied to your message already, but must have fat fingered the submit button. If you are concerned about the joists moving I recommend affixing them together. You could add short 2x4 sections in between the joists to stiffen them and to hold orientation and or you could place a scrap 2x4 or 2x6 directly on the bottoms of the joists as a temporary position holder. If you are interested in renting a jackhammer check out my video (czcams.com/video/YUzTGLIG5r4/video.html). I purchased a cheap jackhammer and use it to demo an old concrete foundation. It was actually cheaper than the rental fee and now I have it around should the need arise. Please support your house safely and cautiously. Cheers,
I just ran into the same issue after tearing the rotted deck off our house. Whoever installed it didn’t use bay flashing and same wood you replaced is rotted.
Looks like my house uses two 2x4 for a sill and I hope I’m not getting in way over my head attempting to repair it myself.
Anyway, your video helped. Thank you.
Take your time, think methodically, support it safely and you will succeed! Attaching deck ledger boards incorrectly without the correct flashing is a common cause of rot. Even when they are installed correctly it is a leak point. I installed our front deck free standing without a ledger to avoid having an additional (potential) leak point. Thanks for watching and good luck with the repair! 👍😁
About to do the sill plate and rim joist under my front door. Have been scared because it looks so bad. Thanks to this video though I think I can do it. Fingers crossed
I am happy my project videos are helping others! You can do it! Please ensure to lift and support your floor joists safely. Typically a poorly flashed in door will cause water intrusion around door thresholds. Happy DIY'ing! Thanks for watching. 👍😁
@@FlatThunder there is no flashing around the whole house. Surprised it isn't much worse.
I am guessing it is an old house. On my repair project I used tar paper to flash in around the threshold along with tar sealant. I think Aluminum is a better option. If you are replacing the entry door too, they have other options. I have seen (but not used) rubber membranes and aluminum caps people install before setting the door. Cheers, 👍
I think that grace ice and water shield would work for flashing it's self sealing made for roofs and around window...
Thank you
Welcome! Thanks for watching 👍😁
That’s a big project
Thanks! I am happy to check that one off my to do list. Thanks for watching 👍😁
where did you get the beam supports to hold up the home on the inside while doing this work? amazing in depth video thank you!
Thanks Tiffany! They were homemade from another project. You can make some or purchase adjustable basement support jacks. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Very fine job for the common man
No 40 man crew and thirty grand bill
Thanks! I'd be afraid to see a full blown contractor's quote on this job. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Great video! What is the reason to back plaster? I'm going through a similar process and want to make sure I'm doing everything correctly.
It creates an extra layer that 'helps' reduce water intrusion. Mortar is more dense than traditional concrete blocks. The more dense material makes it more difficult for water to find its way through. Essentially it makes a more complicated maze water must work through to reach the inner cavities of the blocks and your basement. It may have other benefits. I forget all the specifics, but it is the method I used around my entire foundation. It works well! Thanks for watching and Merry Christmas! 👍😁
Superb! I have the exact same issue. I noticed mushy sill plates when they replaced the outside door. The deck butts against the outside and there is no flashing. The basement is also finished and I dread having to tackle this, but it has to be done. Your video was super helpful and you did a fantastic job covering the details.
Thanks! Improper flashing and improper deck installation is a common issue. I opted to mount my deck free standing next to the house instead of installing a ledger board. This removes a leak point and gives the water a place to go that's not directed into the house. Thanks for watching and best of luck on the repairs! 👍😁
Is the deck attached or just butted up against it? Our deck is butted up against house, but not attached but I worry about this issue
I just had the deck redone because there was no way to look at the band joist or the sill plate damage until the deck was cleared from the outside wall. I had one contractor do it all. They removed the old deck and found that the ledger board was slapped on the wall with no flashing, and the clowns that built it had used wrong fasteners on the ledger board as well. So water was getting into the foundation each time it rained. To add insult to injury, we found that the main support pillars of the deck were simply set inside 4" hole with no concrete! So I had to get new support pillars which were properly buried 12-18" deep and concrete poured into it. It was a disaster.
I noticed that some sections of the sill plate were soft, including the joists, but overall, it was not at a point where the sill plate had to be replaced. Considering the enormous cost of lifting the joists from the inside to put a new sill plate (the inside of the basement was finished and that meant cutting drywall etc), the builder affixed sections of solid board against the old joists to create a strong support to which they properly screwed the new ledger board. I took the time to block each band joist cavity with a 2" foam board and spray foamed around it to create an air seal before they put the new ledger board on it. They then installed a metal flashing that went under the vertical framing of the house and over the ledger board so no water would go into the band joists. The framing of the deck was constructed over the flashing. I also used joist tape along the length of the deck support framing to prevent rot. Once the new deck was built, they installed the proper j-channels (mine has vinyl siding) and sealed all contact points along the outside framing. This should fix the water incursion. I am glad I decided to take the plunge to address this because it would have proven costlier the longer I waited. I hope your situation is better than mine and wish you the best.
@@MrSoulMonk it's crazy how builders can overlook simple flashing..... They must get away with it because the damage takes time to show up. Happy you got everything repaired and fixed up! I opted to leave my deck free standing next to the house without a ledger board. It has a gap of ~1" give or take. 👍😁
@@youknow1334 my deck install has a gap of approximately 1" in between the house and the deck. No ledger board required. Thanks for watching 👍😁
Awesome work. How did you fasten the new part of the sill plate to the foundation?
Thanks! In the short section I replaced only one anchor was removed. It is only sitting on the foundation in this area. In hindsight I should have installed a couple Tapcon concrete screws thru the sill plate before installing the rim joist. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Fussy customers...."Do you want a hole on the side of your house?" seemed to shut them up--heh.
Grabs bigger hammer 🤣.... Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Good job dude! Looks like you also berried your sunglasses LOL
Thanks! No worries, I dug them out. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Thank you for this video loved it. Was wondering are the sill plates pressured treated? That would help with slowing down the rottening process
You have to be careful when installing treated boards covered in flashing & other coverings. Sometimes wrapping treated wood will encourage them to rot. Treated boards also tend to shrink and move a lot. The replacement boards installed were yellow pine. It's stronger than your traditional white pine. Thanks for watching! Cheers, 👍😁
How much does a job comparable to this cost?
hey man nice video. If you are just replacing the rim joist do you need to use support jacks or is that just for the sill plate?
Thanks! If the rim joist is perpendicular to the floor joists, as shown in the video, you can probably replace it without supporting the floor. The main reason i added jacks to mine was to replace the sill plate. However, adding floor supports would be the safest solution regardless of the operation. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Thank you so much for taking the time to video this project. You probably have no idea how much it actually has helped multiple home owners who don’t comment or like the video. By the way where did you get your prybar? That’s quite the tool. Thanks so much again you’re awesome.
Thank you for your kind words! I am happy my videos are informative and helpful to other's in need of information. This one is a huge hit on YT! I think the subject matter / need for repair is common among wood frame construction homes. Thank you for watching! Cheers 👍😁
Sorry I just noticed I did not tell you about the pry bar. It is awesome! It is a Gearwrench branded telescopic prybar. I purchased my off Amazon after seeing a Millwright use one on a jobsite! Here is a link:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015015H6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@FlatThunderwould this be the same approach for a mobile home. No block foundation. The sill/bottom plate rests on 2x6 joists. We have a quite a few spots of bottom/still and rim that are rotten.
@@youknow1334 I'm not overly familiar with this type of construction, but in general the process should be similar; safely support the joists/wall and repair the damaged sill / rim joist. The key to the repair is learning why water was getting into the damaged spots and repairing it to prevent damage again. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
@@FlatThunder I think it’s because the sheathing, house wrap and siding *stopped short of the sill plate. Windows do not leak, we have block pier foundation and block skirting which is fully encapsulated with a dehumidifier. Re just removed gutter in that one area to see if that was culprit but it did not change circumstance. Roof looks good and no stains on ceiling. At a loss here other than what I first suggested as possible cause. Brought in many *pros* to no avail.
Need to Sawzall under those floor joist to plate, the joist are toe nailed to the plate. You may break the ends off each joist if you don't cut the joist free from the plate.
Good tip! I don't think mine were nailed. The sill plate slide out real nice! Thanks for watching 👍😁
Great video! Just an observation: At 29:04 you knocked your sunglasses off the post into the gravel. Did you catch that and recover them?
You have a great attention to detail! Yes, I saved them from the pit. Thank you for letting me know and thanks for watching 👍😁
I don't know about these things, but I was wondering if some adhesive or caulk should be placed between the concrete blocks and sill plate to seal out drafts, water, and insects. Yes, no?
Yes, I think a sealer is a good idea! I applied 100% silicone caulk at the interface between the block and the sill plate on the exterior of the house. I didn't install before because I would have pushed it all out when sliding in the board. Thanks for watching 👍😁
I'm doing the same, but mine is a little more extensive. Mine is in the corner of an add-on, it is all rotted top to bottom. I'm dead ass tired. So what do I do to relax? LOL, I looked to find someone doing somewhat the same and see how they are approaching it, of course after kicking dirt while mumbling something and then accepting the job at hand. Thanks for sharing, and keep up the good fight.
Yikes a corner would complicate things a little. Just take it one piece at a time ensuring to properly support the foundation and not make significant changes in its elevation. It could complicate things and it crack drywall upstairs. Thanks for watching and keep on chipping away at your project! Cheers 👍😁
Great Job 👌 man. One thing I will never understand is why would someone build house out of wood. It is a terrible building material that will rot in no time. Here in Europe our houses are from concrete and bricks or clay blocks. Last almost forever except if we have civil war or something. Downside of concrete and clay bricks/blocks is moisture inside of house.. I guess their is no perfect material for construction.
Thanks! I think the building materials shifted towards wood to save on construction costs. I think my house was actually a kit house from the 1950's. The floor joists have stenciled names on them like, 'front floor joist'. I hope you have a good holiday season. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
You would need to seal and properly insulate it but there is one building material that will last many lifetimes.........Solid gold. The only drawback is the price and the human termites(thieves) it would attract. Imagine how big of a footing you would need for that foundation lol. Best wishes from the U.S.
Yep when I came to the USA from Britain the houses in many areas seemed to be more flimsy than my old garden shed…. They rot, sag, blow away and burn with a vengeance…. Why are they not more solid?
Great video! Maybe you mentioned it, but what was the original purpose of that hole?
Hi Dan! Thanks! I don't remember if I talk about it in this video or the video of me removing the concrete pad. My best guess is the original builders planned on making it a root cellar accessible from the basement, but never installed an access door. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Just knocked out the old cement porch and my rim joist was rotted out completely. I noticed it when I replaced the front door and noticed the sagging when my door wasn't squaring up
Concrete pads and decks can drive moisture into homes if not setup correctly. Double check the method of flashing around your new door install. Moisture can find its way in at the door too. They sell special flashing caps for door thresholds that look promising, though I never used one. Thanks for watching and sharing! 👍😁
@FlatThunder I taped around my rough opening even went down to bottom of my rim joist and seal plate for the hell of it. Building a deck in the spring until then we use the side door
Do you normally have to place jacks under the house to replace the rim joist and sill? I have the same problem right now.
If you do not support the joists they will drop on the top of the blocks. I suppose if the bad section only spans a couple joist it might be possible to replace without jacking. Maybe slide the new sill in as the old one is sliding out (ie don't remove the old sill until starting the new one in). However I would recommend supporting them from underneath. It doesn't need to be raised, but more so supported in it's current position. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
great video, I just had a question about the hole in front of the door that you filled with rock, wouldn’t that be a spot for water to collect? If so, maybe a good spot for a sump pump. just a thought, thanks again for the video
Not a bad idea! I have an extra external sump pump pit I installed on the front corner of the house during the foundation repair. The bottom of the pit has footer tile and the rock allows all the water to drain into the footer tile faster than dirt or soil. If you dump a bottle of water in the gravel it will be in the pit faster than you could get into the basement to check. You are right proper drainage is crucial to maintaining a good foundation. Thanks for watching and sharing! 👍😁
@@FlatThunder thanks for the reply
23:20 Dawn dish soap my friend, industrial solvents are hard on the kidneys.. remember, if it's good enough for the animals caught in oil spills, it's good enough for us.
I've never tried Dawn on tar before, but I'll have to give it a shot. I think Dawn is great at removing oil, grease and grime. It's my go to for removing oil and grease stains from clothing. Thanks for watching and sharing! 👍😁
Your a good son
Hey quick question, I'm replacing a small section of rim joist I found with some rot (~2 ft). I was able to remove the rot on sill plate and rim joist on this area. I got the sill plate in, but unable to get the rim joist in. I got a 2x8 and its just a tad to big, should I be using a jack to fit it in, or should I look at trimming the board down?
If the floor isn't sagging I would trim a small amount off of the rim joist to make for a snug fit. Double check before trimming to ensure something else isn't hanging it up; obscure nail / object or a warped board. Thanks for watching and good luck on the repair! It sounds like you're on the home stretch! 👍😁
Hi,
How did you install two columns?
I think you did not use concrete, did you?
thanks,
Hello, the temporary lifting supports are just sitting on the concrete floor. They are not bolted or fixed in place. The steel c channel beams are thru bolted; one on each side with 3/4-10 threaded rod squeezing the two sections together. Check out the earlier short narrative on the foundation repair. It shows the process with pictures and an explanation. Thanks for watching 👍😁
If I just need to replace the rim joist and not the sill plate do I need to Jack up the floor beneath to support the floor joists? I understand the need for bracing the joists when you have to replace the sill plate. I’m new to this stuff and just discovered a bunch of rot after a deck demo. Any advice is appreciated!
I would recommend it. The construction shown in the video has the rim joist installed in between the upper floor sheathing and on top of the sill plate. Decks encourage rot when not installed properly. Improper flashing at the ledger board is a common mistake. I opted to install the deck free standing without a ledger board. This allows any moisture to drain without going into the house. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Does this help the house not fall? Or what is the purpose?
The structure in the basement supports the house. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Why does your foot overhang your rim joist?I’ve never seen that.
Not sure of the specific question, but the construction seems okay to me other than the lack of flashing. Thanks for watching 👍😁
WHich oscillating tool did you use. Id like to buy one .thanks
Here is a comparable tool with similar power ratings and features:
amzn.to/4bxltbL
I think the model used in the video might be obsolete now. Lots of manufacturers make different models, pay attention to the amperage / power ratings. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
It looked like the floor joist ends were also rotted in your video like ours. Dont you need to cut out the rotted part?
They were discolored a little, but not rotten. If yours are damaged remove the rotten part and add in a new piece. I'd probably screw a new piece on the side of the original (overlap for a more solid attachment). Thanks for watching! 👍😁
I have a weird problem/ concern. I have a old house over 100 years old and the back section is basically setting on the ground. Problem it has no sill plate, just a rim joist with hanging brackets for the cross joist at every 24 inches. More of the story: Well a few weeks back I was very concerned with the floor dips and decided to do a little inspection and found that at that spot the dirt was up to the floor boards and rotting them. Longer story; but I could not find anyone to work on this, except one and they still did not know how the house part was built, I also found their cost to high for what they claimed they were doing, compared to the information I was given in person..The others one would not work on it without a crawl space. So I had to work on it my self. I am 60 and doing fine but I'm not 45 any more. I repaired, sistered two of the cross beam on the better part that had rotted or were eaten away form past termites, and bad former repairs where they used regular 2x4s and not pressure treated 2x6 or better. Yesterday I got to the bad part where the dirt was up to the floor. 2 of the cross joist are really not even there. The one is just 95 % gone with numb in the end mount, and the other is worthless. Problem is the design; it looks like it was a porch or deck and then it was enclosed and then a second floor added. I found one cement block support in the middle on one side so far and there is no sill plate with this design. So what is supporting that end of the house? How much can the wall bottom supports carry, and do I just put a 2x8 or a 2x10 in those spots to go partly under the outside rim. I currently only have access to 2 of the outside walls, and there is a deck there built into the ground and it has rotted over the past two years. Just a dumb situation/ design, but the back year is higher then the front so I partly get the point of the in ground deck. Bought the house about 12 years ago and it was my first house. I'm here on my own. The other outside part is cement over to the neighbors property, and on the inside it is the long kitchen counter and sink that I did not want to move, but I do have access at the trouble end on the inside of about 4 feet of that wall. I live in a small town, Columbia, PA. On the parts I repaired since it is built like a deck, I added 2 4x8x16 cement blocks under each of the two joist I repaired about 2-3 feet from that room edge. So that is my plan for the others, so having it go under the rim might be a wise plan I guess, or build my own support under the floor edge/wall plate and add another cement block there as well. So far for some of the jacking I have been using a car scissor jack, that might not work in that area.
Yes, I had to dig out the dirt of the trouble spot to get do to about 10-12 inches, not know if I will disturb and house holding parts, but since the beam are about gone, no worries yet. The former fix from someone else before I bought it, was a rock or brick here and there. Just sick!
Wow.... Some repairs are sketchy at best, let's just shove this rock or brick in here! I think I would try to repair it by building a second support structure inset from the existing unit, leaving the existing block/rock, building a new block or concrete support structure, and stub out joist under the old section for support (if possible). All the dirt needs to be removed from around the foundation and floor. To accommodate what is there I would dig a footer drain around it and try to adjust the main grad of the yard away from the house. That is my make shift idea. To correctly repair it the whole thing needs excavated out with a traditional foundation installed and proper grading around the house and or raised if necessary. Thanks for watching and Happy Thanksgiving! 👍😁
Looks like no front door sill pan was ever installed and water seepage wicked on down?
No pan or flashing was present on the door. The concrete pad in front of the door was pushing a ton of water back into the siding damaging it much wider than the door.
Great vid! I'm in the middle of trying to find a good resource for doing this repair on a rim and sill perpendicular to the rest of the joists. Any recommendations?
Thanks! I have yet to tackle this project. Hopefully I do not have to anytime soon, but I did just take a look at my sill plate. I think I would notch the existing sill plate on the interior, install supports on top of the blocks directly below the wall cavity (but inside the basement / next to the rim joist), continue with the repair similar to the video, section or notch the replacement sill plate to miss the supports, and the last step (after the new sill & rim joist are installed) remove the supports / fill in the notches in the sill plate. Generally it should be the same repair, but with a different support system. I'd try to get a 4x4 or a small piece of steel in place with short jack bolts down to the foundation. Maybe get away with a support jack bolt every 4'? It depends on how heavy duty the support bar versus the weight of the wall. Lift safely and cautiously. You should be able to tell it's adequatingly supported before removing the old joist. Thank you for watching and good luck with your project. 👍😁
Just to make sure I'm not confused, did you mean "Parallel instead of Perpendicular" in your question. It looks like the floor joists in this video are Perpendicular to the Rim Joist on top of the Sill plate.
Thank you so much for the Video Flat Thunder. Your work will really help me with the project I need to do for a friend. Problem - rotten sill plate and Rim Joist where Rim Joist is parallel to the other joists unlike the example in your video. Could be 2 small, 2' or 3' foot sections or one long 8 - 10 ft section needing replacement. I won't know until I do some more de-construction at their place and pull the exterior siding off. Here are the specs: 35 yr old house, 2 story with 8' ceilings in the basement, the 1st and the 2nd floor. Basement not finished. Problem area close to one corner of the house. Source of problem appears to be two or three fold. 1st - hot and cold copper water pipes running vertical from basement to 2nd floor in stud cavity (exterior wall - in climate with real winters & hot summers) that at one time had a leak that traveled/accumulated at the first floor decking/basement cieling 90 degree turn. This appears to be the source of the original problem. The next stud over is the start of framing for a "french door" 5' wide 2 panel porch door with one door panel static and the other door panel hinged, porch door is original. The moisture collecting in this area could also be from 33 years of "sweat condensation" on the pipes AND 2nd issue - moisture from the water pipe problem may have encouraged intrusion from the outside by insects. There is daylight visible in the worse spot when looking out from the basement just like your video but it's just one spot about the size of a golf ball however the rot is spread out at least 2 or 3 feet and possibly up to 10 feet. Just before I got the house 5 yrs ago, the previous owner put a small ground level deck on the house, under the "french door" where no deck or steps down had ever been built or so he said. The 8 x 10 deck sits on blocks and is not attached to the house but sits right up against the siding. This has obviously held in a lot of moisture over the last 5 years and contributed to the rot from the outside. The foundation/basement walls are poured and the next joist, parallel to the Rim Joist is 3.5" from the inside of the foundation wall (leaving little room to work from the inside) and it is 10.5" from the Rim Joist (I can't tell yet if there are two Rim Joists sandwiched together giving a 3" thickness or just one Rim Joist at 1.5" which seems a bit thin with 2 x 6 walls?) In the two worst spots I can see from the basement the OSB decking on the first floor is rotted too so I don't yet know if the "sill plate" for the 2 x 6 stud wall above the OSB decking is also rotted until I dig in further. There is rot in the interior framing of the "french door" where the vertical framing meets the door sill. I understand your reply to WookaBounce above who I believe has the same set up that I do (Rim Joist parallel to remainder of floor joists...even though he said "perpendicular" and I think your reply to him assumed the same. I understand the first half of your reply to him re: adding vertical support blocks from the Sill plate where intact otherwise the concrete foundation to the first floor decking above it and then removing when job completed. Inserting these support blocks will be challenging due to the first interior joist being just 3.5" away from the concrete wall along with the bottom of the joist and the top of the Sill plate being flush. Any blocking added from the inside will have to be fitted by hand, no hammers or levers or tools can be inserted to assist due to the confined work area so in effect they will be "catch blocks" if the wall sags 1/16th or 1/8th inch. In order to install "support blocks" slightly oversized and hammered in with a mini-sledge, it will have to be from the exterior requiring a lot of excavating of Sill and Rim Joist first, in that narrow area before hammering them into position....unless you have any other ideas. See Part II below, CZcams limits size of comment.
Part ll: The second part of your reply to WookaBounce regarding a "support system" re: "get a 4x4 or a small piece of steel in place with short jack bolts down to the foundation" I can't picture or don't understand. Can you give any more detail on how this is set up. I assume it is from the outside/exterior of the house. I looked up Jack bolts and only got info on them being hydraulic driven?...is that right?...sounds like very specialized equipment but I can't find any details on it. If you can try to describe this "system" in a little more detail I'd really appreciate it or reference me to another video or website that shows the system and the jack bolts so I can visualize them and maybe figure out how they are integrated into the system. Thanks so much ahead of time for sharing your mechanical engineering expertise.!!!!
@@FlatThunder Hello FlatThuder - I did not directly " reply" to your msg so you may not have been directly notified of activity on this video. That is the purpose of this reply. Please see my questions below for my situation. The 2 - comment question is actually pretty short and concise unlike the setup with the details describing my situation. thanks in advance for reading through it all and responding.
Rim joist or box beam same thing.
That will looked like cedar? How bad condition was that sill?
No I do not think it was cedar. I could be wrong, but the material seemed much harder than Cedar. It was damaged enough to notice, but not nearly as bad as the room joist. Thanks for watching 👍😁
So Andy, this is where you get the money to work on that beautiful C-750 Ford.
I wish I got paid for this repair! Engineer by day and 'Mr. Fix All' in the evenings. Thanks for watching Donald! Have a great evening. 👍😁
Nothing like getting yelled at for preventing the house from collapsing. My Wife did the same thing when i was replacing a window.
Haha....I hear that! Literally and figuratively. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Did you put the new sill plate right on top of the concrete? I was just curious because in my area we usually put a pink foam barrier between the bricks and the sill plate
I did not install a foam barrier. I replaced it as per the original; directly on top of the solid block course. What does the barrier do?
@@FlatThunder it is meant to prevent termites from accessing the wood from a concrete crack.
@@latestartinvestor2102 I did not know about the foam layer before our conversation. Thank you for sharing this information. You learn something new everyday. 👍😁
@@FlatThunder I know what you mean brother. I am right there with you
@@latestartinvestor2102 and also prevent moisture from concrete to penetrate wood as concrete wicks water and is always expelling water.
I may have missed it but why is the rim joist not flush with the sill?
Nevermind must have been the angle. Good work man
The sill plate I installed did have a 'little wang' in it. I forget exactly how it was bowed, but I did have to shim the furring strip / tack strip for the siding to make it all happy! Thanks for watching 👍😁
Yup termites can eat away through any wood as well
Yes sir, they are vicious little guys. Thanks for watching and happy Saturday! 👍😁
@@FlatThunder Crazy bugs they are agreed
Who would I contact, what type of contractor would I call to have something like this done to my house (maybe not to this extent)
Any general contractor should be able to assist you, but I would opt for a qualified handy man or someone specializing in foundation repair. Thanks for watching and best of luck on the repair! 👍😁
so you didnt secure the sill to a bolt?
I did not add a sill bolt back in during the video. It probably would be a good idea. Thanks for watching 👍😁
What would you do if the joist ran the opposite way than in your situation ? Im in that situation and dont know which way to jack up the house.
Hi! I would support the joist next to the wall, but also support it directly above the basement wall in multiple places (depending on the length of the section being replaced). I would notch the old sill plate to allow for small supports to be installed. If you have room you could build supports with offset feet to avoid notching. Thanks for watching and best of luck on the repair. Work safely! 👍😁
Could I put blocking between the rim and next joist then jack up the blocking ? I think that would work but then what to do when I need to replace rim
@@TheJudgeJuryExecutioner I think I see what you are saying. This is where the notching of the sill plate would be required. I would side in a steel structure, or rigid member, capable of supporting the wall yet shorter than your joists. Then I would support the member by noticing the sill plate and installing vertical supports. Small homenade jack screws would work. This would facilitate fewer support pieces and notches in the sill plate. I'd shoot for every 4-6 feet in the supports. This depends on the rigidity of the support. Many different ways to support it. Just make sure it's supported properly before removing rim joist.
So no jacks? I have been researching how to do this repair and folks keep saying you need to jack up the floor joists
Look closer in the video. I show the floor supports at one point in the video. Mine was jacked up and supported in the basement. It was a 6x6 with homemade screw jacks. Thanks for watching and good luck on the repair! 👍😁
@@FlatThunder Lol duh, must have missed that part
@@FlatThunder btw what's that pry bar you're using to rip out the rotted board? That looks handy.
@@arkanoiddude Gear wrench 33" Extendable indexing pry bar - 82220. It is an awesome pry bar. It's more for mechanics work, but I use it on everything! Great tool I highly recommend getting one 👍
@@FlatThunder Oh nice...I'm actually an industrial mechanic by trade, but I mostly use the "screwdriver-style" pry bars at work. That thing looks awesome for ripping boards out.
Nice work ! What do you do for a living?
Thank you for your kind words. I am a mechanical engineer. Thanks for watching 👍😁
I love diy! That's a pretty big project. 👍
Thanks! I just started the CZcams channel this year. I wish I captured video of the basement foundation repair. It was quite the process. I have a narration video posted, but it doesn't do it justice. I also replaced all the fascia, soffit and gutters on the house last year. That too would have made for a good how to video series. I often learn as I go and frequently consult CZcams for instructional help. Its a great resource for do it yourself'ers!
I don't think there is anything more gratifying, then a completed diy project.
lol at the noise complaint. Why do I see my wife doing the same thing?
Haha it makes me laugh now, but mid process I was like 'are you kidding me right now?'. Time for a bigger a hammer! I had to include it for funsies. Thanks for watching and happy New Year! 👍😁
Holy crap dude. She literally said you’re making too much noise? I think I would’ve left. That does not go over well with me.😂 so to give me a general idea how much do you charge for changing the rim joist? I am by the way that concrete repair was awesome to hell with whatever a mason would comment.😂
Thanks! This was a family job that wasn't billed out. If I had to guess $1800 - $2200 labor. Like most things I do, I'm no professional, just a guy with some tools. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
I wonder if you think that Bobcat is awesome?
I don't know how I lived without one! I need to get her back in the shop for more improvements / upgrades. Awesome!!! Thanks for watching 👍😁
How much is that job go for.
Family job that wasn't billed out. If I had to guess $2200 - $2800 labor. Purely a guess on my part. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Did you do all that work by your self with no help?
Sometimes I get help, but this particular project was completed solo. Thanks for watching and happy New Year! 👍😁
@@FlatThunder great work!! I have a similar issue except my damage is a result of termites. And just replacing 10ft of rim joist. Along with 3 floor joists. I have no help will be solo so it was great to see you did it on your own! You may have said it in the video, but how long did it take you to do that project and were you off every day to work on it? Or was it all done on weekends? Thanks
@@scotts1111 Thanks! Did you watch the video of me removing the concrete pad/steps? I think I started removing the old pad the same day as the rim joist/sill plate replacement. The whole process of replacing the old rim joist & sill plate was completed in a single day. Pressuring washing, tuck pointing, taring, installing tar paper flashing and siding replacement took additional days. I think my entire process took about 3-4 days. This is mostly due to pressure washing dry time, time for the mortar to cure and being burnt out. The hardest part you will have is lifting the support beam and new joists in position solo. I used ratchet straps to help lift my 6x6 support in position; click a little on one end then move to the other end, repeat. You might want to see if you can get a helper if you're replacing long joist sections. Its doable solo, but easier and faster with an extra set of hands. Lift safely and carefully, best wishes on your project! 👍😁
@@FlatThunder I have not seen the other videos but I will be sure to watch. Thanks for you reply. Happy New Year!
fk it Leave the HOLE lol It sucks sometimes there is more stuff to do than light
Haha I was seriously contemplating it....I ran out of daylight fast that day.
29:10 glasses are gone
Nice catch! I salvaged them before the next load. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Grout bag
Intrigued but never tried one in practice. I don't truck point joints very often.
dealing with similar damage but my sills are on a 5" slab but below grade and sunk into the dirt and then sidewalked up to stucco even had 1/4 plywood sheathing, Well, ALL CRAP ALONG WITH STUDS. YOU better put in the foam strip between block and 'pressure treated sill plate. What no PT. No foam either- what about hold down, not even powder shot nails., tapcon..... So the story goes no hurricanes and earthquakes in this specific home. Should use a membrane over that joint. after mortar. That drain has no fabric. holes?? Experience says the measured amount of water not 7 minutes of dabbing with a hose, AND THEN SAYING TOO MUCH. Geeze that joint is as a dry as a bone. could have sprayed it 20 minutes ago. Wet is best, Don't use cheap gloves.
Sounds like a losing combination. You might need a moat to maintain the grade and keep your sill above grade. I recommend adjusting the entire grade next to your foundation if at all possible. If nothing else it sounds like a fun excavating project. Post a video of your repair. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
You need a jointer, ,in the future use a better waterproofing agent, tar is rigid when it drys , it fails,, you want to us3 an elastomeric material that will stretch with the movement of those blocks, it’s called Paige coating around here, not back plastering,,,yes it needs be wetter mud. With polymers added to mix, 33 yea s experience here talking,,,blocks keep s in business,those block wingwalls should have been. Replaced, junk,,like I said blocks keep us in business, it’s a great business to be in, lots of , Liabilityis why I do it a tad differently,
Great information! I think I have heard it called 'parge' coating previously. I could be wrong on the spelling. The wing walls make zero sense to me in this build. I previously removed the, the same setup, at the rear of the house. The old owners were nice enough to fill it with old garbage including a whole roll of carpet. I wish I could have shown the whole process of the wall straightening. The entire foundation was straightened and repaired previously. It was a real bear of a job. Thank you for your recommendations and thanks for watching 👍😁.
@Alexander Di Cintio Hi Alex! It sounds like quite the project. I do have videos on a cinder block wall that was caving in, but they are short and after the job was complete. It shows the extent of how much we corrected a wall via pictures and narration. Check it out they might offer some help. I am guessing this house is old enough that it is limestone or some other natural rock/block wall? If so those might be an entirely different beast. You'd be surprised how / easy it is to correct a wall once the neighboring dirt is excavated. If it can be puahed back into place tuck pointing all the joints should be sufficient. Providing adequate drainage around the foundation is critical. I back filled my entire foundation with gravel. It drains super fast! Best of luck on the repair and thanks for watching 👍😁
Great WD 40 tip. How does it work with the beard? LOL
Haha it's an acquired taste, but I prefer it in my beard over PB blaster. 🙄
All because of improper/missing flashing.
Yes, water damage is often overlooked by builders / construction teams until major damage occurs. Likely because it takes a while to damage wood with water intrusion.
Instead of complaining about the noise, Nagitha could've got her butt out there and helped you.
I heard that!!!! Note my solution was a bigger hammer 🔨. Thanks for watching 👍😁
@@FlatThunder i saw that. It was a nice touch. Thats why I liked and subscribed lol
yea just leave the hole there my man 😂
Haha, yup critter catcher, until you realize you're related.....Then the larger nosier hammer enters the equation. 🙄
You bought it this WAY
Border Joyce
'Joyce, she died thirty years ago' ..... Christmas Vacation 🤣
You didn't have to split the bord
I only replaced the damaged section. I could have replaced the full span, but would have required additional temporary supports. Thanks for watching! 👍😁
When my xwife talks, thats the same sound i hear.
Haha sometimes they pick the worst moments to start complaining
im outraged that he made a loud noise while fixing the hole in my house!.. I was watching CNN.
Haha.... Thanks for watching! 👍😁
What the hell is wrong with ppl they don't see him trying to close up the hole?!. Should've just left a hole.
It was an interesting situation.... Next step fetch a bigger hammer! Thanks for watching! 👍😁
@@FlatThunder LOL goodman!
Take flashing seriously.
I agree it is important to flash in all exterior protrusions on your house! Thanks for watching! 👍😁
Your making too much noise!!
*Grabs bigger hammer
Haha Yes! This outta take care of things! 🤣. Thanks for watching! 👍😁