Repairing Termite Damaged Sill Plate in Load Bearing Wall
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- čas přidán 11. 04. 2021
- In this video I show you how I replaced a portion of termite damaged sill plate in a load bearing wall. Working with load bearing walls can be dangerous so make sure you know what you are doing before taking on a repair like this. If you are unsure you can hire a professional (such as a structural engineer) to help you understand how to properly support the structure.
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This and your video before this about replacing studs from inside the home are very helpful. I'm finding myself in a very similar situation with a house I just purchased. Thanks!
Great stuff! I knew our 70's house had had termites in the past, but I didn't expect to find so much damage when I gutted the master bath on the second floor. This was the section that's up against the chimney, so it kind of makes sense that they made it so far, and it also made your one-sided access very relevant. This doesn't answer the problem of missing/disintegrated sheathing between the studs and the chimney, but one problem at a time... get down to studs and sub-floor and support where needed.
Yea the sheathing can be tough to replace in these situations. I'm still trying to decide what to do with mine.
Great video. Thanks for posting!
exactly what I have been looking for. My wife and I are buying a home built in 1976. It had termite treatment and we are going to take down the walls to get to frame. I needed a video like this incase we have to replace the studs and plates. Thanks!
Glad it helped. Good luck!
You wouldn't believe how many houses where I'm at are supposedly treated for termites. Sometimes they find a gap in poison well and only eat a few inches of wall. I've seen others that were fully treated and they came in on multiple walls around the house at the same time. Most of the time it's the Formosa termite. They dont have to have a source of water.
The two videos helped very much!! I have the exact issue on a house I am redoing the kitchen on. The entire exterior side wall is in the same condition with the outside sheathing and tyvek wrap gone.
I'm glad they helped. Good luck!
Great repair carpenter.
Thank you for posting your video. This is exactly what I need to do for my home built in 1930
Glad it helped. Good luck!
Nice video, My cental air conditioning system has been leaking water into the Sole/Bottom plate on the basement interior support wall next to it. I can see the unfinished wall is starting to bow and crack a little. I think I will need to replace the King plate on the doorway also.
Great job🤙🏼
Thank you for your help I have the EXACT same situation on my brick home
glad it could help ya. Good luck! Termite damage sucks, especially on brick homes.
I have a very similar repair I need to make, but for a different reason. My man, thanks for the awesome advice and video. This was very helpful.
Good luck!
@@KyleMerl
Took me about 11 hours, but I finished the repair today. The advice helped a lot. Thanks
Great idea.
Great video 👍🙌, thank you for making it
great info
Going to put in 4x4 posts on a 2x6 that spans the garage 18" from the wall I'm replacing. The overhead door wall is shot with termite damage.
Good job 👍
Thanks
OK. We got a wall and window to address. That belt scares me. Thank you.
Thanks.
This video is great for what is happening to my house right now. I’m a little concerned the man who’s doing mine has left one piece I think should have been replaced. Maybe I will do it myself now! 🙂 Thanks!
glad it helped and good luck! Just make sure you do your homework as far as figuring out how to support the structure if it's load bearing! that's very important!
Mine is brick too and I need to replace a garage door header and top plate. Major termite damage.
Very helpful! Would you need to create a temporary stud wall if you’re only replacing a small section of the sill plate, sat 12” or so?
If its load bearing then yes!
Would the temporary wall be good for a 2nd floor?
I have damage to outer corner studs, and perhaps the top and sill plate too. Concrete foundation, brick exterior. Roof is truss. Will replace the three studs that make up the corner. Since the trusses go over this to good studs, I do not think this particular section is load bearing. Would you still recommend a temporary wall?
Well, I'm no expert, but I would expect with a corner you would probably need to support the overhang on the outside of the house.
This video came at a perfect time for me. Have to do the same repair around my entire house. Would it still work on a wall that runs the same direction as your ceiling joists? I’m guessing that a wall under 1 joist would be enough to get the weight of the sill plate for replacing
I meant to reply to this sooner but got distracted by life! This method is for when the ceiling joists run perpendicular to the wall you're trying to repair.
So if you had to replace the bottom plate for an entire wall would you build the support wall across the length of the whole wall or do it in sections like you have here.
I would support the entire wall.
For replacing a 12 foot section, should I build a 12 foot long alternate wall like you did, or use two 8-ft floor jacks with a 12 foot 6x6 beam across the top?
Never mind, I ended up doing neither of these. I did some horizontal 4x4s raised slightly above the existing plate supported on each side of the wall, and a temporary stud on top of these, in between each existing stud.
I may have water damage on the studs themselves and saw on a forum the method "sistering studs " in which you would fasten the new wood to the old studs after removing the rotted pieces . do you believe this to be an effective method ? or would you recommend building the false wall to support .
The temporary wall is necessary if you're replacing the sill plate on a load bearing wall. You need it to support the load above as you replace the sill plate. If the sill plate does not need to be replaced and you're only worried about the studs, sistering could work, depending on how the wall was constructed and how badly damaged the old stuff is
I wish i had help to do this
I think im going to scab some treated wood beside each stud onto the concrete kinda like a porch post, and piece meal my bottom plate, and then scab another piece on each side above the new piecemeal bottom plate. So in other words my 2x4 treated pieces will be my seal plate for an area of 2 inches and then i can piece my seal plate as needed per section. Cutting the sheetrock wall up at each stud enough to scab till i can get under the original stud.
It's best to keep your sill plate all one piece of lumber if possible. I would avoid having a bunch of small pieces to make up the sill plate if possible.
I'm replacing a bottom plate it my garage.... do you think their is any harm in replacing it in shorter 32-34 inch increments so that there isn't as much to brace all at once?
The bigger you can do at a time the better. Itd be preferable to support the entire wall and do it as close to piece as you can
Did you go underneath and support the joists?
No my house is on a concrete slab
Idk why but I felt like I was about to fire up an episode of Jackass with that warning lol
I have to cut holes in my garage ceiling and inspect the trusses by the overhead door, 11' of the wall at the rough opening is termite eaten. Have brick face as well.
Ugh good luck! I hope you don't find any damage up there. Replacing trusses can become tricky and might not be as simple to support, especially if it's structure that supports the roof. Definitely do your research if you need to start replacing that kind of stuff.
When you said you made the temp wall slightly taller than the actual wall height to lift the studs up slightly how much taller are you making it?
About 1/8 inch.
@@KyleMerl thanks, bc me/friend about to do this on a porch and change old posts out.
@@morokeiboethia6749 Good luck!
Are you willing to be hired to do out of state termite damage repairs and new window installation?
Sorry but no... I dont even like doing this work on my house! Youd want to find someone who is insured to do work like that.
How do you get the new sill onto a mounting bolt with the studs in the way?
I didn't run into this issue but i would probably cut the anchor bolt and then fasten the sill plate to the concrete using a different method
I would cut the anchor and refasten it.
FYI for anyone else doing a job like this on an exterior wall on a slab, you can't use a wedge anchor if your sill is a 2x4 as you won't have enough distance to the edge of the slab. Big no no! you can blow out the slab and have an even bigger problem. Drill a 5/8 inch hole through the sill plate and into the slab (for a 1/2 threaded rod retrofit Simpson Strong tie makes them), blow it out with compressed air and load it up with concrete anchoring epoxy. Install rod through plate into epoxy filled hole and tighten down the nut ~5 hours later.
@@JohnnySnaps Thanks, but too late. I blew out the slab in several places with 1/2" wedge anchors. 😞
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It could have stayed, those sills were like new. Oh you had to lift it and expose the lower 2/3; way to go. Original had ZERO hold down bolts, why?
There are hold down bolts, just not in that section where I replaced.
Only 1/16" extra
I understand you are speaking of a loadbearing wall however, the damaged wall standing. Your section was only about four feet of damage on one wall. If there was a risk of collapse then the rotted wall already would've. The temporary support wall only served to allow the sills to easily go back into place. It is better to air on the side of safety with the temporary wall though.
The sill plate had failed, as the studs of the wall were being pushed into it from the weight of the load. Not sure if I mention this in the video, but in my case it was necessary to lift the wall up in order to replace the sill plate.
I will always err on the side of caution with load bearing walls because I'm not a structural engineer. And if I'm unsure, I'll hire one!
@@KyleMerl Agreed 👍
Your not replacing the rimjoist, or sill plate. That is a bottom plate of a wall. Correct me if I'm not hearing it or misread the title of video but, you said termite damaged sill plate replacement?!?
Your totally not replacing that... What your referring to is a bottom plate, sill plate is the board that attaches the home to the foundation with anchors(j bolts) the rim joist goes on top of that, along with floor joists. Then comes the bottom plates for walls like your taking out of the home in this video.
Your rite about them being load bearing walls, but your terminology is incorrect.
Or have I completely missed the sill plate part on this video?
Yea my sill plate wasn't damaged enough to warrant removing it at that time so I didnt do it but this video still demonstrates one method of supporting the load in order to do such a job so I think the title of the video is still acceptable.