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wouldn’t you have to snorkel the other side of the belt box

what size stepper bit

Kevin, I am installing the LI BIM 225 on out 2014 Tiffin. To my surprise I found that the “Signal wire” is hot any time when the key is on. I have conformed with Tiffin experts, this is the way it is supposed to function. So if the signal wire is allways hot, this defeats the purpose of the BIM 225, doesn’t it? Thank you.

Thank you for giving a step-by-step. I finally found my issue. It kept popping up Range Shift Inhibited!!

Yet more priceless information. Thank you

Thank You Kevin, Your videos are outstanding reference for RV owners. Your Attention to detail and proactive nature is amazing. I own a 2006 Kodiak 5500 8.1 Vortech Super C RV. I have tried to match some of your workhorse chassis videos to my chassis and come up with variations that make me question if my chassis is in fact a Workhorse chassis. Did Chevy use a Workhorse or their own chassis for Kodiak RV's.. Thanks for any feedback you can offer? Steve

How many oil this need

Phenomenal video! I think I've watched it 3 times over now, about to tackle this project on my '91, all the extra info and part numbers is extremely helpful, thank you Kevin!!

Any l9ong term update how is the repair holdingup?

I believe it works in conjunction with the battery boost functionality so you can manually connect both battery banks together.

Excellent video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. What purpose does the IGN connection do? Is this what tells the LI BM225 that the engine is running? RNX

Great video Kevin

Good tip Kev. Man that is really unusually noisy. Still using my 22yr old unit.

🎉

My daughter just got a $1k quote to replace her compressor/condenser and all the associated A/C parts on her 2010 Honda Fit, but I happened to notice that this little button wasn't working, so I figured, lets replace this little part first ($50) before you spend $1k on replacing "everything". I'm a diy'er, my daughter not so much, but she loves the savings. This video is exactly what I needed to get the job done myself.

Great video

So how many of yall machines got fixed and how many did yall need to replace completely?

Great job again Kevin. You need to open your own RV repair shop.

im leaking oil my trans just went out well not shifting 2007 yukon does my truck have this plug cause i got it fixed before an theshop said it was something with a shift idk if this was it but he said if it get wet again it would go out again but i couldn't find any videos of nothing that could get wet that would hurt the transmission but this

I would like to come out to you, with my winnebago adventurer I lost 1/2 all power going to the fuse box but all the fuse are good, and under the hood got 7 fuse outlets not working but all those fuse are all good to

So thankful you uploaded this video! All of your content is super helpful!! We just had this same issue with our Winnebago Voyage happen today. Water was dripping down and coming out right over the black and grey tank handles outside. Followed your advice and instead of putting another breaker vacuum on, we removed it by cutting the pex lines and added two elbows to connect the lines together. Then added a 3/4" brass anti-siphon vacuum breaker hose bibb to the outside flush. 👍👍👍

Kevin, I had to change my AXV now everything is working well, I have a 20 degree delta between ambient and vent air, however air is also blowing through my defrost vents in every mode selection. I own a 2005 winnebago 35A, workhorse W24 chassis, can you help with this?

Mobile mechanic here. I work on a lot of stuff but first time running into these. I figured the green clip needes to come out but its always nice to check before breaking stuff. Thanks a bunch for this video!

Great Video and very helpful! How, may I ask, did you get your fan to work when the door is closed? I saw your wiring towards the end of this video and I was checking my wiring. I have the exact same model in our RV. I hooked up a VOM between the + side of the light terminal closest to the door and the aluminum fin. When the door open I get +12 V, but when the door closes I get 0 volts. On the other red wire, I get about 5v for the thermistor when the door is open or closed. There is a magnetic reed switch located in the control box under the mode button. Running a magnet while the door is open in that area activates the switch cutting the power to the light. I want to add fan to my fridge coils but I can't find a way to get power to it without drilling a hole through the enclosure. I'm assuming you are picking up 12V for your fan from another source and would like to know how you did it. Thank you in advance for your help.

Excellent video!!.... Very informative!

Great fix, Kevin, I also like the old time wash machines, not computers and metal parts, way to go to keep this machine alive.

Thanks for sharing, looks excellent! I have an '03 Toyota 4Runner with 4.7L V8 and 158K miles that I've had since 73K miles and been diligent with my oil changes like you, mostly with Valvoline full syn, 5W30. I changed valve cover gaskets recently and was pleased with how mine looked too. We both have engines that are not as "emissionized" as todays engines and respond to good maintenance. The engines today with direct injection, EGR, variable timing, cylinder cut-out, thin rings, etc. are rolling bombs in many instances.

Thank you for this video! Just got done doing this setup except my flagpole is going in a flag pole hitch receiver since I can’t have a ladder on my travel trailer. Thanks again!

Kevin - Thanks for being brave enough to tackle yet another issue with the HWH Flat Floor system. As you & I have discussed in the past about this system - it is unbelievable the extent they (and I assume Winnebago) went to in order to simply have the floor drop down ~1 1/4". They came up with an extremely complicated (yet fragile) ram system to perform the last second drop down that was never designed to be worked on. Just look at how difficult it was to replace both the angled sliding blocks as well as the small, rectangular nylon weight bearing blocks on the arms themselves. Secondly - In addition to the above - they designed this entire slide out to ALSO have to carry a large amount of weight, due to all the inside cabinets, furnishings, and 3 large storage compartments underneath. Of course people would load those up as they are some of the largest compartments on the entire rig. You can only scratch your head and say "What were they thinking"?? What BAD design!!! Would have preferred separate permanently mounted basement compartments, even if hard to access with the slide out. Even worse - I have found the 1" drop down totally useless. The flat floor served only as a marketing technique that is really totally without any real value to the owner. Would have preferred just a straight in/out slide like we have in our BR. They do not drop and it is not an issue or problem. In my model 37b we have the same long flat floor slide out, but without any of the kitchen on it - just the couch and the dinette. But we still have lots of inside cabinets we can load up, the storage compartments under the bench dinette seats, and the same 3 basement compartments. We changed out our the floor after the glide rail became the "tear it up" rail and starting grabbing and ripping up the carpet it was supposed to glide over. Installed vinyl plank flooring before realizing how critical that carpet was in creating a gliding surface to the slide as it comes in. And in our rig you only see about 16" of exposed slide edge - which drops down under the dinette. It would have been no problem if that never dropped down if we could have gotten a simpler, more reliable slide out system. They should have designed this using the KISS method. BUT - as they say - it is what it is. And thanks to you and your work you have helped many to understand and work on this HWH slide out system. And this video will certainly will help encourage me to totally unload the 3 basement compartments before I move that large slide in or out again. The less weight on it the better. Thanks again for tackling this issue! Look forward to seeing your next video on this full repair.

What material did you pick for the bushing? Also, what did you end up on for the length? Lastly, not doing anything probably doesn't ultimately affect it, maybe getting premature wear on shaft or are there other wear items that you could think of?

Fantastic! The spindal that holds the knob broke on mine but with your vid I can begin planning how to rig me new post without spending $70 for a whole new unit. You are a savior, mahalo nui for your time making this great video.

I'm glad my kitchen is not on our slide. We do have storage on the slide, but on the inside it's just the couch and dinette. Thank you Kevin for another great video.

Thanks for sharing sir, if you haven't considered, your videos certainly saves us money on repairs, but they may actually save lives, your greatly appreciated!

Kevin, great video as always. I am curious, what kind of gas mileage do you get? I understand 8.1 can be notorious for using oil. I have heard as much as a quart every 1000 miles. What is your experience?

Mobil 1 all the way. Ran it in my race cars with exact same results!!!

I just need to change the light bulb on the switch. Do I still need to do all that?

Hey, I see the video was posted 2 months ago. How's this repair continuing to work? Also, I was thinking DENSO reman as an option. Lastly, I think they could've made the bushing longer, but wouldn't you risk hanging up the starter and wearing the clutch assembly? Maybe that's why the design of the original was so small? Wouldn't you replace like for like?

Kevin how are your exhaust manifold bolts? Are they still all there, I think that's about all that goes wrong on a more regular basis.

Good info Kevin, NEVER overload your slides or your RV !!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but this mechanism uses the flipper being held in to slide the outer tube up the ramps before unlocking in the up position when retracting the room. Based on that, and using the max weight for one arm 500lbs an a guess of 30 degree ramp angle on the hopefully Teflon slide blocks I get a best case 316 lbs force on the ram, and 636 lbs worst case. All of that force is applied to the flippers, which have to pull the outer tube up before they release into their windows and lock the slide up. The inner tube is trying to rotate the flippers out with about 150 to 315 lbs of force, and the vertical side between the ramps must hold that much spreading force 316 to 636 lbs. The support is not buckling from the weight, its being bent apart when there's too much friction on the hopefully Teflon ptfe slide blocks, raising the retraction force, and consequently the force on the flippers, pushing the ramp bracket apart. The flipper area needs to be reinforced on the ramp part

very descriptive and detailed thank you for taking the time and sharing i had a question about refilling the transmission fluid. The shop i had my allison fluid and filter replaced at told me it had to be pressure filled? and that i needed a special machine/pump to do the job did you encounter this? is there something outside of your very descriptive video we as do it ourselfers need to know in that regards? thanks JB

That’s a mess

My Newmar only the slide moved out. The basement storage was supported by the chassis. I still tried to balance the weights and store low usage items on the slide side.

Very informative Kevin, bet a whole lot of people are adjusting their load plans. looking forward to the repairs.

Having had the part that is bent on this RV replaced three times in less that two years it was nice to see a lot of information on how it works and how it fails. The first time ours failed, we paid HWH to repair it. They only replaced the bent part. This part failed again in a couple of months. This time HWH replace the bent part again, at their cost. It failed again in only a few months. This time with the help of an HWH troubleshooter, the whole system was replaced except for the hydraulic cylinder, and it has been working well for the last four or five years. HWH paid for the whole system and paid a combination HWH/Winnebago dealer for the cost of replacing the whole assembly. We were thankful for the help of the HWH troubleshooter and the dealer who did all the work. Thanks Kevin for making this video. Hopefully it will help others with the same issue.

I guess this type came out in the 2005 model year,I think it is a maintenance headache.

This is exactly where my kitchen slide is heading. I have quite a bit more buckling and bowing than you do. I am parked until 1 Oct here at our Elks Lodge campground so this is where it is gonna have to be done. Anxiously awaiting your repair video. Thanks Kevin

Just found the booklets, Power Gear, Fleetwood Motorhome slide -out systems operations manual: part no. 82-S0010-10 (4/18/99)

Hey Kevin, I just bought a 2004 Bounder 35E 8.1 Work Horse 13,900 miles, manufactured second half of 2003 in Riverside California, do you know what the slide type is?

Ouch! You sure get into the nitty gritty of things! Thanks for sharing Kevin.