A Quick and Simple Method for Making a T Slot Cutter.
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2022
- Ideally you should have a tool/cutter grinder or a surface grinder and an indexer to grind a tool like this, but not everyone does. I decided to make mine on the mill out of a drill blank to support my miniature machine parts. Take a Look !!
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Long ago, when I worked in a shop briefly, a machinist told me "when you need something, make it. You're a machinist." You repeatedly amaze me with the items you make to get a job done. Nice video and thanks for your time.
Happy to do it.
I'm 79 and still learning
Years back machinists and other skilled trades people always had their noses up in the air, and it was difficult to learn from them as most would not tell you anything,
They wanted to be the guy or person that knows all,
Just wished people were so gifted and loved to teach and show how things are done,
This type of person must have a love in their hearts for what they do and for others.
Thanks Joe and keep teaching
Thanks for the comment.
I trained and worked as a machine tool operator many years ago before I switched careers and now find myself drawn back to machining as a hobby so I have some limited experience, but I can honestly say every single time I watch Joe I learn something new
Thank you
Thanks. Thats good to hear.
Ready available high quality carbide cutters has revolutionised machining. "Old school" would have been to form the cutter in tool steel before hardening, then hone the cutting edges after hardening and tempering. Every extra step an opportunity to make a mistake and start again. You remind us it can be done in more modern ways, Joe. Thanks!
Believe me, I've made plenty of cutters old school. Plenty on the surface grinder too. Options are good.
I'm aware of the different hardnesses of HSS and carbide, but never saw milling HSS with a carbide tool. Thanks for showing this process to us.
How about milling carbide with CBN? ;)
No thanks.
Making these tiny T slots in aluminium was a job i used to do regularly. i necked down a 4mm slot mill in the tool and cutter grinder.
Thats cheating. But certainly the way to go.
I love the way Joe always makes it simple and explains it in layman’s terms for those not as smart as Joe 🙏👍🏻
I try to never speak down to those I think may watch, but I use the words that would work if I was listening. Everybody is new at something once.
The beauty of a manual machine is you do have some feel unlike a cnc. I bet you’ve got an old tobacco tin full of home made tools. I have and I always think I may need to use them again. Good video joe.
I have a full drawer in my red toolbox with a lineup of form tools that would shock you.
Thanks again Joe. This time laterally.
As much as one learns there are always some things that get forgotten.
Not so long ago a piece of stainless ate my HSS parting tool so I bought a TCT parting tool with inserts. The smallest holder is still too large for my lathe. I need to reduce the flange which is gripped in the toolpost from 10mm to 1/4". It ate two HSS end mills. This caused some head scratching. I was going to send it away to be surface ground but then I saw this video and so have ordered a carbide end mill instead.
So thank you again.
Watching here from the UK. Nicely done Joe, appreciate all the miniature and precision work! 👍
Thanks.
Joe, thanks for sharing your wisdom. Much appreciated. 👋👋👋👋👋
Glad to do it.
While I was in the middle of watching this, I had a thought, what if you took a HSS .125 endmill, and necked it down like you did. Then you'd already have your cutting edges built in.
Thats how i made my t slot cutter it works great !
@@bellhoppersaws It's good to know I'm not totally crazy haha. I think it'd work for a keyseat cutter too
Thats is what i do most of the time
Yeah, that's what we do at our shop. I think Joe just figured this would make a more interesting video.
@@nathanielstephenson7932 I bet you're right, it's good to know how to TRULY make a cutting tool and all the angles you need to consider. This could have been some weird size not easily found. Honestly I'm glad he did it simply because it made me THINK about it. There's been a few times I wanted a keyseat cutter, now I think I can just MAKE one
Thanks again Joe for making it look so easy, if only that was true, nice tool made as usual. Good to see the jewellers loupe in use as seeing what you are doing is also taxing. Great confidence booster for the rest of us .
You realize that booster isnow a dirty word.
I keep that loupe ready at all times.
And now I have another tool making video to save for later when I will need to make one.
Yet another incredible video Joe.
Another excellent video. I recently took steps to start trying to make money with my small shop. I'm hoping to be able to make something of it for my family. Have been wanting to do this for a long time especially since my wife passed just after new years that way I can work out of the shop at home and be here for the kids.
Sorry to hear that brother. Good luck! Family is more important than anything. Best wishes, God bless and God speed
@@daveb3910 many thanks
Good luck.
@@joepie221 thank you man. I appreciate it
Really useful video on making miniature cutters. Thanks for sharing your knowledge & experience Joe. 🇬🇧
Very welcome
Nice addition to the tool box, thanks for passing this along.
You bet
Excellent work, many thanks for the tips.
Good job Joe. Thanks for the video!
Excellent precision work.Thank you.
That is a 1.9mm shaft on a 3.175mm cutter!!!
Blimey!!! That is some fine work!! 👌👌👌
That would explain the CNC choice for the 9 slots on the shaper table.
This post is why I came here in the first place. I live in a place we call Shoping North, LOL. Waiting the 10 days, 2 weeks for a cutter to arive is is something that we have to deal with right away or as you have just shown us, make it yourself. It really sets that throw nothing out that can possibly be re- used in some way or form. That said, have you tried the file and cutter treatment yet ? Take care my friend.
Very cool. The face plate and block are gorgeous. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much! 😊
Well done, Joe
👍🏽 definitely more satisfying to use a handmade tool vs a bought. Nice!
At times, I would agree.
Just want to say thanks I’ve learned so much and watching your channel from day one.. 👍
Many thanks for the trust and support.
Making tools to make tools. Nice Joe. Thank you.
If only you had a miniature shaper to form those T slots.
As a matter of fact........
Nice tool job, Joe!
Outstanding!👍👍👍
Nice. Thanks for sharing Joe
Another gem! Thanks Joe!
Glad you enjoyed it
Joe can you do a video on the skill set of doing work without a DRO. Drop indicators, table stops, the dials, counting the turns and chalk lines. Lathe and mill. Thanks.
Wow, that acid brush looks like a "broom" compared to that cutter. Good content, with good closeups as usual....!
Thanks for the video Joe.
Love the video! Great way of making fluts
I will use this in the near future. Thanks for sharing!!
Glad it helped.
Great job of tool making. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Harold. It worked out well in the end.
Nice. Itty bitty machining. Thanks, Joe.
It seems to be the norm around here with these models in house.
That was a joy to watch that tiny cutter being made, BTW we also use the metric system in Australia.
It worked well.
Great job! You make it look easy.
Thanks
As always Joe, that was simple and elegant. I made a custom tapered reamer once out of O-1 tool steel. It was only for hand cutting brass but it had to be just right. Worked out well. I even went did the extra and made it five flute and deliberately made them not evenly spaced around the axis so as to suppress chatter. I was working off of one of those old books from about 1910 on tool making. It was only ever needed to make about a dozen tapered holes and it was a lot of effort but also a fun challenge.
Hopefully that was a straight flute reamer. :)
@@joepie221 Hahaha yeah. It was. I have the complete materials kit for making the Quorn Mk III tool cutter and grinder. I hope to be able to make and sharpen all sort of tools including spiral-flute reamers and cutters. That, of course, remains to be seen... have to build the Quorn first! 😉
Love my copy of '1905 Tool Making' ...pure gold
Hey Joe thank you sir. Always good stuff to put in the memory bank.
Thanks David.
Hi Joe,
Very well done. Both the cutter and the shaper table. Stay safe and cool. 🙂
Thanks Don, I'm trying.
Excellent discussion/demonstration/lesson
Thanks Chuck.
Great job Joe, I'd be a nervous wreak just trying to do this! Thank you!
I was.
WOW ! I did not know I could hold my breath that long.
I did too.
Thanks for sharing 👍
good video joe..thanks for your time
Thanks for watching.
Great video.
Love it
Nice tool joe, I make alot of my own tooling, turning tool's cutters and so on, we are machinist are we not, great video, keep'um coming..
You have to get the job done.
Thanks for the video, good stuff.
You bet
Precision personified. You do good work as well ! :-))
Woody
Thanks Woody.
Hi Joe, this looks like a tool I could use to cut flutes in small scale locomotive coupling rods. Normally I would use a flycutter. Another great tutorial, thanks
A small commercial t slot cutter or woodruf key cutter would probably get the job done too.
@@joepie221 sometimes it’s difficult to find the correct size for the scale work.
Well done . Thanks for the instruction.Kimber
Thank you.
Impressive Joe.
Thanks.
Hey Joe, loved the video. One thing that would have helped me would be a discussion on the whit board with an end view of the cutting edges vs angles. Thanks.
I agree. commnet from above - For the application, not really important. After I blacked it up with the marker, removing the black became the goal.
@@joepie221 maybe not needed for this application but for me as a newbie the whiteboard will always help te understand what you show us.
Thanks.
So small - heck, what a challenge! :)
Those are going to be the most adorable t-nuts.
Super small.
Thanks Joe
You Bet.
nice.even at my age 78,I acually understand you,but I'm special
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thank you!
Love your work and ideas as always Joe!
Nice!
Would like to see a few close up photos of the tee slot cutter you made.
Another brilliant video Joe, and thanks for sharing it. AvE did a good video on the hierarchy of what cuts what and if I remember correctly, tungsten carbide wins although the material name morphed into something else! Regards from Wales
Handled correctly, carbide is an apex predator.
You can hardturn carbide with PCD inserts. I have done it in my lathe, but do not really like it since the tiny chips are worse than grinding dust and will eat Your machine if they gets the oportunity...
PCD is the tyranosaurus rex... as far as I know.
I once had a job, had a large 304 stainless cylinder which i had to cut a .02 wide .125 dp slot along the top tangent of the cylinder. My boss handed me a .02 endmill and said dont break it, its the only one we have! I cut the slot and didn't break it. I was only in the trade but maybe a year or so. I still have that endmill in my box as a good luck charm.
I didn't see any lube when you were milling the rod. Do you do it dry or was this an oversight?
Nope. Dry is OK.
Question: wasn't it nit possible to first use the side of the cutter to remove the bulk of the material for the shank and only use a "move up: of the cutter for the finishing pass for the sharp corners.
This would reduce the possibility of breaking the sharp edges of the cutter
Absolutely. That probably would be a better approach. Good call.
Joe, just a quick question. Why the 5 degree cut angle, wouldn't the standard 8-10 degrees have been better? Just asking......
Seems kind of wrong to be cutting HSS with such a tiny carbide end mill but it certainly worked a treat.
Hi Mark. Hold your breath, proceed slowly and pray for some luck and viola.
When I make these to cut steel, I use O1 and I harden and temper them.
Thank you.
Please don't cut the t-slots in the part with your CNC. The flood coolant and Precision movements and slow feed rate of your will lessen the chances of snapping off that little cutter. However down here in the comments it's blasphemy (not Kosher) to use a CNC machine. Some viewers take it as (why not just 3-D print it) smh. Keep up the good work Joe! CNC or Manual.
Well it is true that I am a fan of MQL and cryo coolant.... if the choice comes down to worn out acme threads to a ballscrew I'll take whatever has the tightest guideways 😉
Beautiful work, love watching you work in miniature.
Question; could you have drilled and used a long pointed center on the blank while machining? I imagine after the first cut reducing the diameter the blank wouldn't have a lot of strength. Just a thought
The part really didn't extend far enough to need support. Good thought though.
Thanks for that.
Thanks for watching.
Wouldn't be better to use and end mill with a corner radius to cut the neck diameter? Sharp corners are stress risers.
It wouldn't cut a T-slot if there was a radius between the shank and the flutes, which would defeat the whole point.
For the shank to neck portion, yes. The top of cutting edges, however, have to be dead square or relieved, otherwise the fillet will be transferred to the top of the t-slot (depending on neck clearance).
On a feature that small any more than .015" R would take out most of the clamping surface (there's only .025" on either side to act as a clamping surface). There would still be clamping action, but the nut would tend to be pulled "through" the top of the slot resulting in poor wearing and binding.
@@_GOD_HAND_ I'm talking a .010 radius or smaller. Most T Slot cutters are made this way it adds strength to the tool.
@@brandons9138 To clear the entry slot, the shank would have to be relieved 2X the radius chosen. It was only .07 to begin with.
Nice work! Gutsy way to make a tool you couldn't buy anywhere. Is there a reason you didn't cut the teeth first, so you had a more rigid workpiece?
Using the relief was the visual target I chose to support the tooth depth.
Working at this scale clearly has its own challenges. Will the cutter tend to deflect to forward cutting side just because of the small size or is the chip loading insignificant at this scale?
The initial end mill maybe, but the T slot cutter hits on opposing surfaces simultaneously so it probably cancels deflection.
Question, not sure if i pose this correctly.
Do you think it would have been safer to cut the cutting edges before you cut the diameter of the shank
I would think that would help to relieve the possibilty of breaking the cutter when cutting the teeth last.
Risk was low. Its a dealers choice operation.
Would it be possible to modify an end-mill by necking it down with precision grinding perhaps? That way you would get a set of factory teeth at the original diameter on the cutter.
Absolutely. Be aware the flute depth may make the small relief area weaker though.
That is exactly how I have made cutters for Sherline T-slots.
Good work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Awesome! Thank you!
Dear Joe, if the cutter is the wide part of the tool, how did you manage to remove material from the stem and the bottom of the slot which don’t have a cutting edge? I couldn’t see your test material without cutter overlain, did you cut a slot in it to follow with the new tool?
I did. I made the initial slot .005 deeper too since the bottom of the slot serves no purpose.
For those of us with more basic machines could this tool be made with unhardened tool steel and be subsequently hardened ?
Metallurgically there’s no reason you couldn’t anneal it, quench it, and then heat treat it, but you’d have to be pretty precise and really have to do ALL the steps or you may as well make it out of glass…
Yes, a lot of milling type tools years ago used to be homemade using silver steel ( drill rod) and hardening before things became available for hobby use affordably
The correct tool for this job would be a two flute HSS .125 end mill. Clamp the cutter in the rotary indexer and grind the groove with a narrow wheel on a surface grinder. Oops forgot; Joe doesn’t have a surface grinder.
@@ellieprice363 Or does he ??
@ Trevor Winter Absolutely.
Thankyou 👍
You bet.
Wow I've never seen someone make a slot cutter home made before.
This was just one of many ways to do it. Depends on starting resources and available machines.
Hey joe what brand of carbide cutter do you use
I buy my cutters from ATG in Pflugerville Texas. Great bunch of guys. I believe the black coating is the TiALCN
👍👍👍
Another great video. I just finished restoring a clausing 8520 knee mill and I'm looking for a project to learn how to use it. Would any of these models be a good way to learn/ tool up as I go? It came with collet Chucks, rotary table and what I think is a decent Vice. Any thoughts on a first model?
I built a PM Research Arbor press. It was fairly easy. The simple steam engine is reasonably machined for someone new. That would be me as well.
@@mikeshort4291 thank you for the input. I watched both of those videos I have to go back and take another look.
I'd start with the arbor press. Good confidence builder and great model to sit on your desk.
@@joepie221 Arbor press it is. Looking forward to learning as I go with the help of your videos. Thank you.
Genius at work !
I still have much to learn 😁
This trade is vast. We could learn everyday until retirement and not know it all.
@@joepie221 the best thing is Joe, is you are more than willing to share the knowledge. That's why I follow you! Too many people hide their skills to make a buck not realising that when they are gone it's lost.
You are providing a legacy to so many.
Good on you!
Cheers Neil
👍🏻
Gee Joe how do you do things so fine
Patience.
So how did you get the camera and the microscope in there Joe. Well done mate from the land down under.
Lots of zoom.
That came out well but had you thought to start with a 1/8th end mill to save having cut the teeth?
We have a lot of tools made in the fashion you suggest at the shop I work at, usually done with a grinder however. Quick and easy to make, and carbide is an option if you need it.
There is more information in this video about tool making and cutter geometry though, and I think that's what Joe was going for.
@@nathanielstephenson7932 I quite understand but both ways are a good lesson for beginners to open their minds to what is possible.
@@chrisstephens6673 Both methods are legit, but an endmill mave have been considerably weaker necked down that small. It would depended on the original flute grind.
@@joepie221 absolutely right, I just mentioned as an option.
Nice job!
Not to spoil your fun, but you do know Harvey Tool stocks cutters in that size range? 😁
All us UK Guys???? A vast amount of us still use the proper imperial system, as well as being able to work across both imperial AND metric at the same time. odd situation, but it is what it is.! LOL, Either way, impressive work as usual.
Europe without the UK (Britain) uses metric mainly.
Nice video!
Did I miss in the video the reason for cutting the neck of the cutter first, and not the flutes?
If you cut the neck first then the depth of the cut that establishes the flute is set by looking for the witness mark on the neck.
If you do it the other way around you have to calculate that depth based on the offset from centreline you place that flute cut at, which is what's setting half of your edge geometry.
It's still very doable, but requires more thinking/planning.
@@dtnicholls1 that and you have nowhere to "gracefully" end your cut. At depth you're heading straight into a wall of HSS, overshoot and that EM is a goner.
The above 2 replies say it perfectly.
Hey Joe
👍
Hey Joe back at ya.