If you're having issues after the bike gets hot and up to temperature you're either too rich (the bike will run even richer once it heats up fully[warmer air is less dense]) OR your coils might be bad. Over time heat kills coils; they might even test fine with a multimeter, but once they get exposed to heat from the engine they can act up. If you need to replace them remember that the same coils are used on the early Yamaha XS400s, like my 1978. Other bikes may also use the same ones.
Thanks for the help. I read on the forums that it most likely is the coils. Bike won't even start now after my last run. I'm thinking engine might be flooded from trying to start it over and over so just have to clear it out.
I went through 2 sets of these carbs and I did not remove the tube below the "slow jet." I can't remember, but if it came out easily I would have removed it; it is probably pressed in. Do you mean the float needle seat held in by a little bracket and screw? They can be a pain, but resist the urge to grab the inside with pliers; you don't want to scratch the travel area where the float needle sits unless you're replacing it. I used some small pliers and grabbed it from the outside while twisting
Ultrasonic cleaning is often the only way to get old carbs looking new again, but it is probably not necessary. Compressed air and carb cleaner should get you going.
There are no other rubber parts, but it looks like there ARE plastic plugs throughout the carb bodies; I missed them the first time through because dirt made the material difficult to identify. Since these plugs are likely pressed in it is NOT safe to submerge these carbs in a true harsh solvent. I have, however, had good luck boiling carbs in a mixture of vinegar and water, but it smells like ass. The cb360 carbs are robust and very easy to get running; they are not very sensitive.
CB360 has a 3 jet carb, what you thought was 'slow/primary/idle jet is really the primary main jet. The secondary main jet was removed first along with the emulsion tube. Use an 8mm wrench to hold hex when removing main jet
Hi, did you ever figure out if there were any other gaskets or rubber parts than what you mentioned? I see float valve, float valve seat o-ring, float bowl gasket, mix screw o-ring, diaphragm. I'd like to soak these, but I'm worried I'm missing something.
I think the po might have messed with the carbs jetting. My bike is running extremely rich. Which jets do I need to replace? From what I understand, it's the primary main jet (68) and slow jet (35)?
This is what my carbs have in them: Slow jet: #35 Main jet: #68 Secondary jet: #100 Float level 18.5mm (0.75") You can also adjust the idle fuel mixture as well to lean things out a bit.
Have you thought about doing a reassembly video as well? Is there any specific settings when reinstalling the jets? Or do you just snug down all the jets after cleaning? I thought I read that one of the jets should be set 1.5 turns from snug.
Reassembly is simply the reversal; I omitted it for the sake of efficiency. Snug down all the jets but not too tightly because they strip easily (brass) and they simply don't need much force to keep them in. Yes, there are more settings to tinker with if you're looking too synch them or adjust the idle, but that would take an entire new video.
Did you ever have a problem with your bike not idling/starting after about 15 mins of riding? I have the same bike and it keeps dying on me after riding for 15 mins.
+chiangxiong Understood. I guess what I am saying if they don't cost too much that it might be a good idea to replace it? I don't know anything about them obviously, just askin.' Thanks man.
If you're having issues after the bike gets hot and up to temperature you're either too rich (the bike will run even richer once it heats up fully[warmer air is less dense]) OR your coils might be bad. Over time heat kills coils; they might even test fine with a multimeter, but once they get exposed to heat from the engine they can act up. If you need to replace them remember that the same coils are used on the early Yamaha XS400s, like my 1978. Other bikes may also use the same ones.
Thanks for the help. I read on the forums that it most likely is the coils. Bike won't even start now after my last run. I'm thinking engine might be flooded from trying to start it over and over so just have to clear it out.
I went through 2 sets of these carbs and I did not remove the tube below the "slow jet." I can't remember, but if it came out easily I would have removed it; it is probably pressed in.
Do you mean the float needle seat held in by a little bracket and screw? They can be a pain, but resist the urge to grab the inside with pliers; you don't want to scratch the travel area where the float needle sits unless you're replacing it. I used some small pliers and grabbed it from the outside while twisting
Ultrasonic cleaning is often the only way to get old carbs looking new again, but it is probably not necessary. Compressed air and carb cleaner should get you going.
great video! you sound like richard dreyfuss
There are no other rubber parts, but it looks like there ARE plastic plugs throughout the carb bodies; I missed them the first time through because dirt made the material difficult to identify. Since these plugs are likely pressed in it is NOT safe to submerge these carbs in a true harsh solvent. I have, however, had good luck boiling carbs in a mixture of vinegar and water, but it smells like ass. The cb360 carbs are robust and very easy to get running; they are not very sensitive.
CB360 has a 3 jet carb, what you thought was 'slow/primary/idle jet is really the primary main jet. The secondary main jet was removed first along with the emulsion tube. Use an 8mm wrench to hold hex when removing main jet
Pilot and primary main jet don't get changed
If your using 'pods' and in particular cheap pods, you will have a problem around ~4,000rpm
Also, valves being out of adjustment is another possibility.
Excellent thank you , just wish you had a better camera, with higher speed shuttle... But still worth watching ..
Hi, did you ever figure out if there were any other gaskets or rubber parts than what you mentioned? I see float valve, float valve seat o-ring, float bowl gasket, mix screw o-ring, diaphragm. I'd like to soak these, but I'm worried I'm missing something.
Helpful video. Do you recall on which side (intake valve or air cleaner) that the two holes in the bottom of the vacuum slide were closest to? Thx!
I think the po might have messed with the carbs jetting. My bike is running extremely rich. Which jets do I need to replace? From what I understand, it's the primary main jet (68) and slow jet (35)?
This is what my carbs have in them:
Slow jet: #35
Main jet: #68
Secondary jet: #100
Float level 18.5mm (0.75")
You can also adjust the idle fuel mixture as well to lean things out a bit.
well yeah but now i gotta put this back together 😕
Have you thought about doing a reassembly video as well? Is there any specific settings when reinstalling the jets? Or do you just snug down all the jets after cleaning? I thought I read that one of the jets should be set 1.5 turns from snug.
Reassembly is simply the reversal; I omitted it for the sake of efficiency. Snug down all the jets but not too tightly because they strip easily (brass) and they simply don't need much force to keep them in. Yes, there are more settings to tinker with if you're looking too synch them or adjust the idle, but that would take an entire new video.
Perhaps the idle mixture adjustment screw on the outside should be 1.5 turns from snug, but NOT any of the jets. Big difference.
Did you ever have a problem with your bike not idling/starting after about 15 mins of riding? I have the same bike and it keeps dying on me after riding for 15 mins.
what kind of carbs are those
+Louis Calderon Keihin 745b I think!
would it be wise to replace the rubber diaphragm at this time?
+Chuck Cunningham If they need to be replaced, sure. If there are no holes or rips they should be usable, however.
+chiangxiong Understood. I guess what I am saying if they don't cost too much that it might be a good idea to replace it? I don't know anything about them obviously, just askin.' Thanks man.