Replacing The Rear Wheel Bearing On 01-08 Volvo's
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- čas přidán 11. 06. 2019
- Had a terrible noise coming from the right rear of my winter car. Turns out it was the hub bearing. On about 60% of cars these are assemblies that bolt in, and on the remaining 40% they are a press in type bearing that requires a lot of work to replace.
Thankfully these are the bolt in type, and even with many years of rust built op on the assembly, I was able to replace it without much trouble.
Expect to pay between $350 to $500 to pay someone to install this on your Volvo. I paid $55.00 with free shipping from Ebay and it took less than an hour. - Jak na to + styl
Hi Erik. This is one of the best instruction videos I have seen on the net. To the point and not the least gives the right steps, including smart shortcuts like not removing the break pads to save time. I replaced my bearing on a 2004 (360 000 km) my son uses yesterday in less than one hour, including painting works on the breakdisk shield. I did one thing different than you to avoid hammering the bearing out, as I was not sure which side was really bad, or if it was the diff, and then might have to re-install the old one on this side... I did not unscrew the bolts from the bearing housing completely but left 3-4 threads in, then took an extention to a socket and hit the nut head from behind the wheelhub. That drive the bearing housing out of the flange nicely and I could remove it with the hand once it was loose. Last time on the front I struggled a lot. Thanks again. I will search for more of your videos. Best regards from Norway. Pål
Glad to hear I could help! Yes, I've used the bolts as a striking spot to help jar one of these loose, but That wasn't working with this one so I went to plan B. Hammer time!
@@FarpointFarms Hi Again,
Are you good at the CANBUS on these cars? Mine is causing problems such as blanking out the dashboard, setting the CEM to Emergency Mode etc. Once the doors looked (for good almost) and had to break in. We checked the modules in the front for corrosion (CEM and Gearbox control) with no improvement.... is it only an osciloscope that can analyse the bus? When I reset the car it runs for months - then an error comes along. Annoying. Otherwise a great car I must say. A real workhorse.
This post was SPOT ON! Made the job easy and the time saving tips were appreciated! Thank you for your help!
I am glad that I could help
Nice, gonna do this tomorrow. Changed all brakes today and hadnt noticed that one bearing was done
Take your time and you'll have it done! Good luck!
@@FarpointFarmsno problems, an hour without power tools, almost no rust here in northern sweden so a Nice start this Nice tuesday
Thanks for the video. Just changed the rear bearings on my S80 awd by following your instructions.
Thank you man. I have to do the same next week. I was thinking it will be really hard but what i saw in your video it's pretty good and easy. Cheers
love this. "bust out the sledge" + "don't tighten them all the way 'cuz the get extreeeeemly dif...." this is gold, bro
Thank you, You saved me a lot of money and showed me it is not a big deal to replace the rear hub on my 2004 v70.
Man, that is great to hear!
Excellent tutorial. Just did mine on an 05' xc70, video helped sus out the difficult stuff before I started. On the 05' the lower rear flange bolt was a bear to get at. Great job!
glad that I could help
Thank you for this video, I got lucky and only needed a ring spanner on that awful hidden 17mm nut. I dropped the car down onto an axle stand positioned under the lower swingarm to push the suspension up and it give me a tiny bit more room. God knows how you got that 17mm socket in there!
Great video, Erik! I did all four hubs on my 2005 XC70 recently and all four had seized splines on the driveshafts. The two rears broke out at the back with penetrant and a normal 3-legged puller, one of the fronts came out with heat, penetrant and the puller, but the last hub flange had to be cut into pieces with a grinder while still on the car after I’d unfastened the inboard end of the driveshaft, refastened the carrier bolts, and smashed it out of the carrier/race with a hydraulic puller. That’s what 17 years of British road salt can do over 160,000 miles. I later found out that people are selling built up front driveshafts and hubs so you can skip this particular misery…I wish I’d found that first!
All that being said, the difference in sound in the cabin and ride quality is amazing. And imho they’re great vehicles so worth the effort. And I would recommend the OEM bearings from SKF. They’re not much more expensive here in the UK than pattern parts and about every 17 years is the right interval for this job!
I feel your pain on the salt damage- There is a place in the US called the rust belt- it gets it name for a reason.
Hello, just bought a 2004 XC70. I am about to tackle the driver side rear. wish me luck. Thank you for the great video. Take care.
I hope it all goes smoothly!
Excellent tutorial. Just want to add if you hit the hub from the side instead of the top when trying to remove it it will come out easier. By hitting it from the top the hub flange is working against you. From the side the flange isn’t as pronounced.
thanks for sharing that tip
Liked the brake trick going to try it on my ram 4/4 thanks
Excellent video. Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Very useful video, thanks! Do you have a preferred brand of hub, or, just as important, a brand to steer clear of?
Thanks for the overview. I'm shocked that my independent mechanic wanted $600 fort his job! Assuming he used a full retail Volvo OEM part at about $280, I still can't see how he got to that price. I'm going to do this myself, Thanks.
That is exactly why I make these videos. A few tools and an afternoon can save you a fortune!
Nice video, thanks , one more question for you, I recently purchased a 2014 Volvo XC90 and the heater does not blow even warm air, Panel controls all work, fan ok, air con works great, just no heat, Took it to the local volvo dealer . they said it was all fixed, still the same, they replaced the thermostat, Can I flush this system. Thinking maybe its plugged up or restricted.
Very nice I like your style
I actually have three different questions I just bought my first Volvo the other day 01 v70 2.4 l
I found out very quickly that it's growing on high-speed turns I just went through this with my Chrysler I didn't replace the rear wheel bearings on my Sebring though I probably will on this Volvo so the first question is what is the best part for this car without breaking the bank and is this wheel bearing all I need for it?
Second question and this is just as important because again I just went through this with my Chrysler it has a misfire on the scanner and cylinder 3 and says the coil c and primary are not working correctly resulting in a misfire in three. Or is it a timing issue cuz the car ended up having a timing issue and blew the oil filter right off the motor Chrysler the Volvo has 181,000 on it I would imagine check the timing or change the timing belt first you tell me.... Cary M
"Sledgehammer to make short work of it" ... And as the SpongeBob narrator says in that slow deep voice "Much Much Later" 😂😂😂 great video , good morning from Middle Tn
Sometimes when working as a mechanic, excessive force is the only solution to a problem. This was one of those moments.
Shop wanted $500, with your video and $60 I was able to do it in 2 hours
Great video demonstration Erik. We need to get you fixed up with a lapel mic.
I bought one, but I haven't been able to make it work with my camera. I know it really effects the quality of my videos, and I am working on it.
Had a mechanic replacing that one for me a while ago and now the bearing (and rotor) get's slightly warm while driving. Is it possible too much torque has been used during the assembly and the bearing can't move freely, causing the area to heat up?
I would bet you have mis-adjusted parking brake shoes or a sticking brake caliper causing that heat.
Great vid I need to replace rear knuckle on 2005 AWD Volvo S60 is it hard and have you ever did one?
It's not bad. The bushings are snug with rust in the bolt holes if you live in a salty area, other than that its pretty normal.
I realize this is an older post, but I seem to have the same problem on my 2004 XC70- same wheel as you, the right rear. My question is; what hub assembly did you purchase. There is a wide range in price. I don't mind paying a premium if the part is worth it, but do if there in no difference with a less expense alternative. Thanks, Tim
I bought the cheapest hub I could find. 8K later it is still working fine.
I bought cheep ones. 3 years and 30k later, i'm doing it again. It's not a job you want to do twice. This time with volvo branded SKF bearings. From what I've since found out, cheep bearings are fine for commuting but degrade faster on long trips. Shop around though, the dealer was asking twice what I ended up paying.
Thanks
No problem, glad to help!
Excellent vid, Eric. I have a 2004 xc70 with 150k that has a slight grinding noise coming from the back. Can hear it best at slow speed when coasting to a stop. What are the chances of this being a bad wheel bearing and not the rear axle diff.? Changed the rear axle oil recently but still hear grinding. Are there any steps I can take to narrow it down? Thanks, Jon
Are you sure you are not hearing a bad e-brake shoe or worn brake pad? I'd verify those first.
@@FarpointFarms Thanks for getting back. I'll take a look. In your 22 years, how many times have you seen a bad rear axle diff.? And, what sound would that make?
@@jonjackson1901 I've only seen two. Both caused by a leak. If yours is leaking, then it is possible that it is failing. It would be a grinding type sound, so you are on the right track, but I still suspect it's a brake issue with either the primary rear brakes, or the E-brake system under the top hat rear discs.
@@FarpointFarms The diff. case was a little wet on right side, but still siphoned out 750ml. and replaced that with approximately 830ml...I think it was the first time it was ever done.
Never heard a piston called a puck before today. It makes sense though. You in Canada or something?
Cannot find a single video for a 2002 Volvo S60 Na P2 platform on "rear" wheelbearing/hub replacement. The S60 front wheel drive, obviously has no CV axel out back, there is no center nut on the rotor assembly. Looks to me like 2 of the lower bolts holding the hub assembly are nearly impossible to remove as the spring is in the way. I just want to see what else i must remove to gain asses to the lower bolts.
the job is the same as this video- Those bolts are very hard to get to- you might need a swivel socket and extender to get to them.
Can I get to the last two bolts without an Impact wrench? Can I just use the ratcheting wrench. Thanks
With enough leverage you can use a wrench- a good old breaker bar will be your friend
You have not mentioned torque specs for any of these bolts. Or did I miss something?. Not that a torque wrench can fit in on some of them.
All I saw you do was hit the wrench with a hammer and then apply brute and experienced force or finish up with your air ratchet. I read elsewhere 89 ft lbs for the axle bolt ( the spline to spline union) Is that correct? I am trying to find the wheel bearing assembly bolt torque specs as well as the little tiny rotor and caliper to flange bolts torque specs. Great amd very reassuring video for the project I need to do though! Thanks!
I am not 100% sure on the torque specs on it- I would see if you can go to a volvo forum to double check- they usually have the specs listed in there-
Being a mechanic for many years- we have our own spec called 'good-n-tight' You kinda know how tight is tight
Do you know if the front and back are the same on an xc70
Not that same part nber, but the installation is the.same.
great vid. How much easier life is with a lift
No doubt! I worked on the ground for years and I'll tell you, this was the best purchase I ever made for the shop!
A pretty similar setup to my volvo c70
V70/S60/C70 should all be very much the same. 1993 to 2008 are all about the same if my memory serves.
what lift do you have? thx.
The harbour freight mid rise scissor lift. It is super nice to finally have a lift at home, and this thing was quite affordable.
Thx, i have the md-6xp bendpak.
is the rear ABS tone ring really inside the hub?
yes it is
if you are having an abs code that is saying right or left rear wheel sensor your problem is actually the abs control module- this is a very common problem.
@@FarpointFarms in my case it is about the rear wheels but I saw the sensor is positioned like a bit behind the hub so I wondered if it is in the hub (V70ii)
Omg nice way to remove a wheel bearing hammer blowws hammer blows till something else brakes
Apparently you don't live in the rust belt. This is 100% normal everyday stuff here.
Ah,, cannot beat a NASA trained tech, the solid heavy multi tool is just the job for a rusty car, one word of caution, if the bearing interface was still rusted, why o why did you not give a bit of a clean up, more professional.
There isn't a part out there that can't be removed with enough force! The rust you saw after I removed the old bearing was from the old bearing. The rear spindle assembly is made of aluminum, it can't rust, so I left it alone.
@@FarpointFarms fair point sir, I haven't been trained by NASA.
Completely useless videoinstruction