Drill Press Mortising made easy
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- čas přidán 12. 01. 2023
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In this video I show a neat way to cut a mortise with drill press and end mill.
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A heads up for anyone not familiar with end mills: they come in "center cutting" and "non center cutting" varieties. You'll need the center cutting variety to be able to plunge with it.
This is a good tip, I will say, the vast majority of end mills in this size range are all center cutting. Non center cutting really comes into play in larger sizes.
I know here in the UK at least they’re generally called a slot drill
they also come in a plunge cutting configuration called a Drill/Mill, very handy for plunging in and then milling, or chamfering an edge, but they do not leave a flat bottom.....due to the angle of the flutes on the end.....usually about 90 degree included angle
Please, source of supply for roughing 4 fluted centering End Mill??
Thanks for the tip, Matt!:) The following is just a side-note, no fear-mongering, just a little smalltalk out of the engineering pocket:) Use it with your brain and not with your heart:P
I think it is not worth mentioning that a drill press is named that way because of a reason and that there is that other mysterious thing one can vaguely imagine by your comment: The Milling Machine. The drill press is built for maximum forces towards the axial force of the drilling mechanism, meaning downwards, you drilling in the workpiece. The milling machine including its tool-holding can handle also radial forces, f.e. those in the X and Y direction of the milling machines table. This different operation area is achieved by a different design, other mounting mechanism and different bearings. You should look up exactly what bearing types your drilling press is equipped with when you are trying to "abuse" it as a milling machine. In doubt: Ask an expert. Or as we Internet-Folk like to say: Who cares? She needs new bearings anyway ... since years! Hehehe
Have fun making!:)))
Best drill press mortis I've seen yet!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you.
“I like to look down on my work pieces” is absolute gold.
Ha! Thank you.
This has got to be one of the most straightforward no crap woodworking videos I've watched in a long time. Thank you for a really sweet into the point demo of an awesome technique. New subscriber for sure!
Glad it was helpful!
Mike’s pretty cool. You’ll like his videos and ingenuity.
@@Whitebassonly Thank you, that is very nice to say.
I thought the same thing Andrew.
@@MikeFarrington are these steel milling bits?
I like the "low pressure" aspect and ease of going slow. Great job on the drill press BTW!
Thank you very much.
Magswitch incorporated stop block is genius! Thanks for the content Mike!
Thank you.
great idea presented in a short, concise format. Excellent work.
Much appreciated!
Mike your woodworking skills speaks for itself but it’s your way of explaining or teaching the techniques that is your true gift when I qualified as a cabinet maker in Ireland many moons ago my teacher taught like you nice reminder every video I watch of yours brings me back there 🙌🏻
Wow, thanks
The mag switch on the drill fence is a great idea. Thanks for the content.
Thank you. I have a video on my channel showing how I made the drill press table and fence if you are interested.
I was so prepared to type the typical "you are not supposed to use the drill press as a router, the bearings... Yada Yada..." but simply just using the drill press to progressively plunge.... Actually a good idea. Just the set up time alone is a great idea
Thank you.
@@text-3264 Yes!!! Awesome! Maybe I send you a few bugs, so the tax people are not suspicious and you give me my price via google gift cards? ^^
Great alternative for Testool loose tenon joinery. When it comes to green tools, no one wants a tucked up tortoise. Thanks for the gems and insight as usual.
Ha! Thank you.
Mike, you're giving away my/our secrets! I use my milling machine for A LOT of woodworking projects. Clamping the workpiece to the table and moving the table in the X & Y axis yields precision cuts every time. You are correct, too, in that a drill press is designed for plunging rather than lateral cutting. The milling machine does both....
A mill would be a great addition to a wood shop.
@@MikeFarrington you just have to keep it clean and oil it a lot. The ways and other sliding surfaces need a film of oil, and wood chips absorb oil 😐
This is about the coolest wood working video I’ve seen in a long time. The idea of using a sharp pointed bit to center the cut is really great. Now, im. going to fix that old end table. It’s about fifty years old and needs an overhaul.
Thanks 👍
You are a fantastic teacher! I'd heard of an end mill, but wasn't quite sure of its purpose. Thanks for showing one in action.
Thank you. This is really not the purpose of an end mill, however it works OK for this operation.
Amazing how simple this is. Would have never thought of it. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
FANTASTIC stuff, Mike. I have been looking at used hollow chisel mortise machines for just such an application. Your method beats that by a long shot, since I don't need a production machine, or a Domino, and the router edge guides are MAJOR sketch.
If you already have a drill press, this method is worth a try before investing in a different tool.
I have used end mills in the past but without the results you are getting. My bits were either dull or the wrong type. Your results appear to be excellent.👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2023 and stay safe.🙂🙂
Try a 4 flute roughing end mill. It will greatly improve your results.
THAT 1/8" BIT IS ADORABLE!
Ha! So cute.
Great video! I was a machinist for more than 15 years and I have journeyman's card. Worked at an aerospace company using steels and aluminum as well as titanium. So I'm very familiar with the end mills. We called the roughing end mills "hog mills"because they would hog out tremendous amount of material and then we'd follow up with the finish end mills for a smoother finish. This was all done on CNC four and five axis machines. I often wondered how the Mills would work for wood. You have answered that question in my mind. And now I have to try it, I like it. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for sharing, good stuff.
I purchased Mike's kumiko lamp course on wood whisperer, it's really great. One of the best online courses I've taken. I would recommend that course to any woodworker, even those who don't have a specific interest in kumiko (like me), because there are so many insights into his process, and it is loaded with brilliant tips and techniques, just like his YT videos. I'm pretty sure, for instance, that the topic of this video was touched on in that kumiko course.
Anyway, thanks for making the videos, Mike. It's always exciting when you a drop a new one and I know I'm not alone thinking that.
Thank you very much for purchasing the course. I used this method in that course. I did so because its very difficult to mortise those tiny legs using other methods. Coming up with a good clamping solution just takes too long.
20+ years using an overarm pin router, often mortising with it. Like you, I much prefer looking at and having full view of the cutting action. We used one inch mills occasionally but most often hss 3/8" upcut spiral bits. I've never seen these bits nor this technique before, thank you! Retired now with just a home shop, I'm sure I'll be using this technique soon! Most woodworking videos I've seen are done by 'performing' amateur woodworkers, often with little experience and talent. Many of these guys recommend "inexperienced" ideas along with "inexperienced" and frequently dangerous practices. You're one of a handful who are not. Thank you for sharing and posting!
Thank you very much. CZcams is certainly a tornado of competency levels.
Thanks Mike, I like this method better than what I was using. Also great video, right to the point.
Glad you liked it!
First i thought its a video how to destroy your drill press bearings, but you acutally dont do what others do so a good tip 👍
Thanks 👍
Amazed that the guy with so many routers enjoys making this on a drill press. Thank you for sharing.
Greetings from São Paulo - Brazil.
When working with really small pieces, its difficult and time consuming to clamp the piece in place. The method avoids that. This isn't the best way to cut mortises, its just another method to use when appropriate.
@@MikeFarrington
I don't know if you are aware that there was some kind of spam (You won something! Cal this phone number.....) sent to me right after I posted my question. I warned youtube about it.
@@mfcosi Thank you. I am aware and working on reporting/removing.
This process works great on a milling machine too! When I lived in central Denver I constructed three wooden gates, and I clamped the stiles to the milling machine table to cut the mortises.
You can use the same process to make the tenons.
Thanks for the video.
A mill would make a great wood working tool.
I want to get into mortising but not buying the expensive setups to do it. I will be getting a set of these drill bits for my drill press. So glad I ran into this video.
Give this a try. Let me know if it works for you.
Great info! We used to use another "fence" parallel to the back fence to keep the stock from moving forward or back during drilling.
That's a great idea!
Thanks Mike , cost effective and quieter! Awesome
Right on!
Next-level-wood-carcass-mutilation. Some of the stuff you share is... wow. Thats all I can say. That mirror-finish on the chisel wiped my whole brain.
Thank you. Gotta have sharp chisels, especially the 1/4".
Great tip Mike! Thanks again for all that you do! 🫡
My pleasure!
Neat idea. I wouldn't have thought to use a roughing endmill to do this, I'll have to give this a try!
Thank you.
This was very helpful. Thank you for the tip. I use mortise and tenon construction almost exclusively. This is a great alternative. I’ll give it a go.
Good stuff. Thank you.
This is awesome Mike! I am in the process of restoring a JET mill/drill. I think it would work amazing with this technique! Thanks for knowledge.
That will be a great machine. Oddly enough I am in the market for something similar.
Love the drill press magnetic stop block system you have.
Thank you.
Thanks for the tip! I do a lot of small mortis and tendon joints and your idea would definitely help.
Happy to help!
Nicely narrated and shot.
Thank you.
Very nice. Always look forward to your videos.
Thank you very much!
Great idea!
Thanks for sharing.
You bet!
Used these end mills with my ShopSmith and an x y machinist table that I could clamp to the way tubes. The work peices were held down by screw clamps modified to fit into the dovetail ways in the table. The clamps were from the Multi Router with dovetail blocks added to the bottom of the posts.
Sounds neat. Thank you for sharing.
From Italy : bravo ! 👍
Thank you.
Thanks, there were some great ideas here, and since I'm about to need to make some tenons, and I just happen to have some end mills, I'll give this a try!
Thank you.
This is a super-nifty idea. Thanks!
Glad you like it!
I’m going to try this in my Bridgeport mill. Thanks for the tip!
A bridgeport would make this whole process a lot easier.
What a cool drill press fence!
Thank you.
Never thought of using the drill press. Great thinking.
Thank you.
Fantastic video, Mike!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great idea and video!
Thanks!
Awesome tip Mike, thanks for sharing.
My pleasure.
Very handy, well made video, good content and excellent video production.
Much appreciated!
Thanks Mike. For a hobbyist like myself, using one bit and spend a bit more time on the mortise (I'm retired so time is not a factor) rather than buying another tool that, for me, does not get used much it a BIG WIN. Thanks! !! !!!
Thank you.
I like it! Will look into using this idea myself. Thanks!
Go for it!
Nice explanation, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
very cool, thank you for sharing this technique
My pleasure!
I been using this for pocket holes but didn’t think of this, great tip
Thank you.
Good stuff. I've done drill-press mortising with a twist drill bit, forstner bit, and a router bit. I've even cut grooves in aluminum with a router bit in the drill press with good results. Never thought about using an end mill.
Thank you.
Love this technique. Have had similar success with end mills on horizontal boring machines. Would love to see a video on your drill press table/fence!
I also use these bits on my horizontal boring machine. I have a video on restoring the drill press as well as building the fence and storage cabinet. Have a look around my channel page.
@@MikeFarrington Ah! I had watched the drill press restoration video already, but missed the follow up video on the cabinet and fence! Thanks for the pointer
Fantastic. Good to see another video and tip. My workshop is slowly filling with jigs and tips from your channel. Still need a drill press though
Thank you.
Wonderful tip! Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks, Mike... great tip. I think the secret sauce to your approach is the direct, intuitive layout-to-mortise process. Jigs sometimes require maths (1/2 distance, bushing offsets, etc.) and then on top of that, your cutter is upside-down, and hand-held. This approach takes out the math, and as you stated, gives you more control over the cut. I did tuck away the drill press notes in other comments for protecting bearings, etc., but really this is what end mills are made to do so with knowledge and caution, I'd definitely do this.
I would suggest the bearing comments from others are a result of them not watching the video. At no point in this process is a significant side load applied. I'm holding the piece with my thumb, moving it and drilling straight down.
@@MikeFarrington Agreed!
Great tip, Mike. Thanks.
Bill
Thanks for watching!
Great video, could really help me out, thanks so much.
Glad it helped!
This is a genius idea.
Thank you.
Nice vid. Short and to the point.
You have a new sub.
Thanks for the sub!
Great and amazing idea thanks for sharing
Thank you! Cheers!
Great idea.
Thanks!
There are variable flute endmills that help reduce resonant viblration or try 2, 3, 4 or 5 flute endmills.
Yes, I have used 2, 3, and 4, and I've found 4 to be the best. It seems as though 5 flute are only in the larger sizes.
Love your vids Mike!
Thank you.
I love your videos, Mike.
Thank you.
You can also reduce deflection by not bringing the quill down-- raise the table instead. This only really works if you've already made the plunge, though, or if you're going around the outside of something.
My raise and lower on the table isn't accurate enough to do that.
So clever, thx for the tip!
Glad it was helpful!
This content is awesome. What a great idea!
Thanks so much!
You make me want to try to mortise and tenon joint now.
Is that a good thing?
Excellent idea, I'll have to get an end mill and try it since I don't do many mortices.
Thank you.
They say "never put an end mill in a drill chuck" but what they leave out is "unless it works perfectly for your application in wood"
I'm going to assume that statement was meant when working with metal. I can name a couple tools off the top of my head that use end mill and had drill chucks. An Inca mortiser comes to mind. For what I'm doing, there just isn't enough force involved to cause trouble.
@@MikeFarrington oh really? I have never seen a mortiser without a collet chuck. That's interesting. In machining metal it's bad practice to put an end mill in a drill chuck because of the forces. In wood you're right, the forces are a small fraction. Your application is ingenious.
Thanks, Mike!
You're welcome!
Woot! Well done and I'll say, timely with the relative humor!
Thank you.
Great method,cheers
No problem 👍
Real nice. Thanks!
You bet!
Thanks Mike!
You bet!
Welcome back
Thank you. Good to be back.
Nice tip; thanks Mike!!
You bet!
Who can open up a map and see between one and two... Always a pleasure Mike!
🤔🤔🤔
Ha!
@@tundrawhisperer4821 Its a line from the song Teenage Riot which he mentions in the video and a steady rotation on my Spotify list.
@@Vitulli1970 😁👍🏻
@4:54 u answered my only question I had ..Thanks for sharing!
Thank you.
Thanks Mike.
My pleasure.
Cool cool cool. I like the cut of your jib 😀
Thanks 👍
Love it! I should think that if you add a suite cross slide holder, you could make as if you are on a mill! Shorten up the quill depth to make it more ridged, and just done go bonkers on it: your plunge technique is likely an importantly part of making this work to keep you Morse tepaer from loosening. But I think this can give Precise results hard to get otherwise. . .
Thank you. You could do it with a cross vice, but the cuts would need to be small so the taper doesn't budge loose.
Thank you
You're welcome
thank you went straight to amazon per your link
Thank you very much.
awesome tip... thanks
Happy to help
Very cool!
Thank you.
hey Mike, one thing to keep in mind -- end mills are generally designed to operate at much higher speed (e.g. 18000 rpm) than a drill press can provide. So while your method does work, it;'s really not ideal. Also, end mills are really designed to do their cutting where either the workpiece or the cutter is moving laterally. Your technique of boring a series of straight-down holes into the workpiece using an end mill means you're probably getting the least possible cutting efficiency you can get from the tool. You are correct, though, that once the holes are bored you can then lower the tool into the space and cut laterally from there. Why not cut the original holes with a brad point (designed for straight-down boring) and then follow up with an end mill to cut laterally to complete the mortise? All the best!
Thank you for the question. Couple things, the RPM of an end mill will vary, those that I used in this video were designed to be used on a mill, so under 5k rpm. Other types like a router bit will be over 15k. As to switching bits for efficiency of drilling; I think over all amount of time would be more. The point of this process isn't that it's the best way to do it, it's that is a quick and easy setup for a couple of mortises. If I needed more efficiency, I would use a different tool. Hope that makes sense.
As always, NICE!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Mind blown!
Thank you.
I've seen some non woodworkers doing woodworking (like Adam Savage) with these with their machining tools and never considered putting them in a drill press. Clever idea!
It's not very good for your drill press and pretty bad for your chuck, but they do work!
This method does not put any additional stress on your chuck.
You're the best!
Thank you.
Great video, I want pie now
You and me both!
Thanks, Great tip!
You bet!
Brilliant, thanks...
Thank you.
Thanks for your video. I'm going to try it myself too. I have a metal milling machine with a cross table. I use the same cutter as you. I only use them for metalworking. For wood I use an electric die grinder with wood cutters. I mounted the Die grinder next to the chuck. In this way I can mill wood very accurately with the cross table.
That would be a great setup for sure.
@@MikeFarrington Thank you, I also like being able to see where I'm milling / cutting wood.
I also think it would be a cool idea to convert a Sliding Compound Miter Saw into an overarm router.
@@jaapvanklaveren6929 Interesting idea for sure.
I don’t do M&T but I do occasionally make slots for jigs and projects and this would be a quick setup for slots. Easier than setting up a router.
I use this method for cutting the occasional slot for a jig part. Works great for that.