Samsung Electric Dryer Not Heating. Diagnosis and Repair (dc97-14486a)
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- čas přidán 14. 05. 2019
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List of part with links if you happen to need them
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Links
Full element as shown in video with element and thermostats- amzn.to/31xTV2d
High Limit T-stat -amzn.to/2LAtvYd
Element only -amzn.to/30q9Aj3
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This video will help you with a samsung dryer, that matches the front load samsung washer, heater diagnosis. It has everything from breaking the unit down to the element and putting it back together. Also featured are some tips on what to look for once its repaired to verify it is operating properly and what not to forget. I know I have forgot to plug that door switch harness back in several times and had to take it back apart to plug it back in.
warning
When testing the unit it is crucial to cut power off. This unit runs off of 240v. If electrocuted it can cause serious injury or death.
You will need a multi meter to test this element and the other part featured in this video. If you do not have one you can take your element and other parts to your local appliance parts store to test them for you.
I hope this video helps you folk out. Thanks for watching. Like and Subscribe!!
Disclaimer*
I am a proud sponsor of these parts we have linked. If purchased we do get a small commission off of each sale. Make sure these are the parts you need before you purchase. Most companies will not let you return any parts that have been installed previously. Thank you for your trust and for supporting our channel! - Jak na to + styl
You're the Bob Ross of appliance repair. Thank you for being so thorough.
You have made my day my friend. Thank you for the kind words!
My Samsung dryer just stopped heating up yesterday. I was able to take apart the dryer and diagnose that it was the heating element and order a new one thanks to this video. Thank you. Saved me time and money. 👍🏻
Very good video. Thanks.
One thing to keep in mind: Everything is SHARP! Have bandaids handy.
I found I can remove the heating element with out taking out the drum. I removed the front plate for the drum, but left the drum in place.
All in all, this was a very helpful video.
I found the solution to my My Samsung dryer DV330!!! It was simpler than I thought :-) kept blowing the high limit thermostat. I replaced the high limit thermostat (manually reset it as many times as I could first), thermo cut-off fuse, heating element, cycling thermostat, AND the thermistor. They all had continuity but I replaced them anyway, and the thermister was reading the correct ohms when I did resistance test at room temp. I also cleaned the heck out of the dryer hose, filter, and blower wheel pipe to make sure air flow was good. I even ran it with no dryer hose but was still over heating. I checked the relay switch on the main control board and confirmed it was operating correctly. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why it kept over heating and tripping the high limit thermostat. Eventually I bypassed the thermostat with the higher temperature thermo fuse and ran the dryer at 10 minute intervals, but then I figured out the root of the problem! It was the blower seal and the seal on the dryer filter cover. The foam gasket had become so depressed, that gaps in the seal allowed the blower to suck in cooler air from out side the dryer drum. This meant that the air running past the cycling thermostat and the thermister was cooler than it actually was within the drum. SOLUTION: I thickened the seal of the blower wheel and dryer filter cover with electrical tape and covered the gaps with electrical tape, this ensured the blower wheel was sucking in 100% of the hot air thru the dryer filter, and none of the cooler air outside of the dryer drum. After doing this, to my surprise the heating element was cycling on and off in like 2 minute intervals like it should, no more over heating and tripping the high-limit thermostat!! Before I corrected the seal, the heating element would never turn off, it would stay on for like 8 minutes and then blow the thermostate. Not anymore!!
I had The same problem , used windo weather strip before putting blower cover back on , and voila. dryer works. thanks jay
I think I am running into the same issue. I will be taring the thing apart again tonight. I am going to focus on what you are suggesting and pray to the dryer Gods we have the solution. My wife is one blown fuse away from a full on Demonic possession.
Thanks for the video! I had to replace a different component (the idler pulley), but your guide was still useful for taking the dryer apart and putting it back together.
For others who may come across this video, the instructions work perfectly for a Samsung DV42H5200EP/AC dryer.
Thanks!
Great video. No nonsense. No wasted time. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Thanks! Excellent video, made the repair easy! The hardest part was getting the belt routed correctly by feel.
This was awesome and saved me a bunch. With your video, and Amazon I was up and running less than 24 hours later. I was able to do this without removing the belt and drum. So that would be my piece of advice to try as I can imagine the belt is a pain to get back on, especially if working by yourself.
Thank you, this saved us a ton of money over replacing the whole dryer.
Thanks so much for this perfectly done video! I had no heat and replaced the heating element and it's working like a charm! I also found one of the drum wheels on the bottom that had fallen off. Put it back on and tightened up the other three and cleaned the heck out of everything and it's running like new. So glad that I found out that the wheel fell off while doing this... could have led to more issues no doubt.
That was great. I started taking it apart and saw that it was a loose belt. Lucky break for me. Easy fix but with it apart I was like hmm how do I get it back in. You speed up the video so fast I was like whoa whoa. Results? It’s back on and running like a champ. I’m sure my dryer felt like it got an awesome bath after being dirty for a couple of years.
Yeah I will stop speeding up my videos. I always thought folks wouldn’t like the drawn out process. I take my own experience and think others are in a similar mindset. Glad you were able to fix it without parts!
Thanks for sharing!
This video was a huge help! Thank you!
Thanks a lot man was so helpful your video well explained. Thanks god bless you.
Thanks for the comment. These comments keep me going :) glad to help!
Thank you brother just fixed mine 😃
No problem 👍
Thanks for the vid.. i have continuity at the heating element.. going with the main relay/control board.
I'm not sure if you would ever answer this but here goes anyways. My heater went out in the dyer. when you check the continuity the element is good, the one behind that is good but the thermostat behind that makes no sound plugged in. when you check on the fuse itself though it does have continuity.
I did kne but the red wire was at bottom blue on top I don't if it's a definite way to wire em wen I got it it was heating and it was wired like urs but saw almost everyone like mine online with red bottom blue top send blue blk third ⚫️ blue. Haven't gotten to test it yet I hope it doesn't mess it up
Awesome video! Thank you so much!!
You is definately the greatest > excellent and well put video.... wow
You’re so kind! Happy to hear you like the low budget videos we do haha. Glad to help
Great video thank you! Was able to easily remove my broken heating element and order a new one off Amazon. I forgot to take a pic of the wiring before disconnecting it and I think the blue wire was on top and red on bottom, but in your video the red is on top and blue on bottom. Does it make a difference when putting in the new heating element? Thx
No shouldn’t matter. Glad to help! Thanks for the question!
This was great! Thanks!
Good video, but why take the entire dryer apart when you can save a lot of work and time by just removing the element assembly?
Any tips on the exact same chassis with the gas element? Doing that same thing, not heating...
So I feel like a huge idiot. I replaced everything. And I mean everything. Come to find out the my gas valve is broken! It rotates 180° and I thought I was turning it off and on and I was just turning it off and off. 😣 Once I turned it 90° gas was flowing and it lit right up. I swapped everything back to original and now I have spares.
I did find a broken tension arm bearing and wheel so that's a plus. Along with cleaning the entire thing like new.
Hello - I have a similar dryer - SAMSUNG DV42J5600EW/A3 - the dryer doesn't seem to work on high heat but works on medium; are there separate heating elements for medium & high?
I have this dryer in a stack pack setting on top of washer. Can I remove the heating element without having to remove the drum?
It is possible. You will have to remove the bracket that holds the element up. Sometimes you have just one screw and sometimes 4, it varies from model to model. If you take off the bracket it will give you more room to remove the element.
This was a big help. Thank you.
Can a thermistor cause a no heat situation?
I thought I have had to change them before for no heat. But, some have told me they doubt a thermistor would cause no heat problem.
So I replaced my heating element aftermarket I got off Amazon didn’t replaced anything else. It worked fine for a few times then again no heat. Took it all apart only to find out my red wire going into the heating element was completely melted/burned and the female spade was still connected.
Any idea what could cause this? I wonder if I didn’t connected properly or something. Obviously is overheating the wired or unit. The heating element is not broken or burnt.
What you think can cause that to happened? My faulty connection?
Thank you
Can you replace it from the rear?
Hey buddy.
Samsung dryer
Model: DV48J7770EP/A2
Only heats to like 90F
Replaced thermal cutoff, high limit, thermal fuse, and thermistor.
Cleaned everything. Running it in my shop with no vent pipe on it. Also visually checked the board.
Is it possible the centrifugal switch can cause this?
I cannot seem to pull or push the centrifugal mechanism either way so I can check the terminals at the switch.
Element checks good.
That being said, I guess it is possible it might have a break that is separating when it heats up.
Ran it disassembled with the cutoff pulled away from the element cage.
About the time the second coil heats up, the element goes off. But, still seems to run at 90F when reassembled.
Check your power coming in. Make sure its wired right and you get 240vac across L1 and L2. Low voltage can cause this or a pig tail restricting voltage. You can check it on the element too. If you have good power at the wall but not at the element you have a voltage drop somewhere in the unit. Control board maybe? If voltage is good I don't have a good answer for you. Good luck.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Still messing with this thing.
I find it odd that when I checked the black wires on the cutoff, the one going to the belt switch relay shows momentary continuity. When I checked the wire itself from one end to the other, it did not always show continuity. Made me think broken wire making contact with the cabinet or a ground wire somewhere.
Btw, the centrifugal switch does work mechanically. I assume since it does heat although at low temp, it is working electrically too.
I am beginning to think element and a partial wire harness.
I always check power too.
Good video. What setting to put the meter at to read for continuity?
Cheers.
Depends on the meter. On mine it has and omega symbol (the horse shoe looking symbol). Some have an audible symbol that will beep for you when it reads continuity.
Hope this helps!
Great video 👍
Gratzi!
But where is that fuse you mentioned in the back???
Hey bud Great video but im still having some troubles, maybe you could help me out. I’ve tested fuse, thermostat and element and they’re all good but it’s still not heating. What could be the problem?
As long it will run but won’t heat it could be 2 other things. The motor or the control board. The motor has a centrifugal switch in it that won’t allow power to the element unless the motor is running. The control sends power on the other side.
If you don’t know these run off of 240v. 120v comes from one side called L1 then the other side is another 120v which is L2. How you figure out which side it’s coming from and which side it’s not you have to take one of the leads off and run it to see where you have 120v. Once you find which side doesn’t have it you follow it to either the motor or control board. Most likely the problem is the control board. Motors are pretty reliable.
To do the test you will need to jump the door switch with the front off.
Good luck!
@@BeardedApplianceRepair hi, i have the same problem, motor runs, no heat, heat element, themo switches are good. when you say control board, which one you are referring to…? the one on the top left with power relay? or on the front? i notice when i turn on dry, one lead has 110v, but not the other one, so i replaced the whole board, but it still the same, wonder what i should do the next. Any suggests would be great. thx in advance!
Jianguo Kan the board that’s on the top left. The front is just the user interface. If that don’t work for you make sure you have 240v at the outlet. Sometimes these will run and won’t heat because it don’t have that second leg of 120. If that is good and you have replaced the board the other leg goes through the motor.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair thank you to get back to me, actually i tested the wire on the back of the dry, it shows all required voltages are there, as the other leg on the control board doesn't have 110 voltage when i managed to make it run for drying, i thought the relay is bad and i replaced the board as well, but it's still the same, so it is not the control board, does it mean i have to replace the motor or you mentioned a switch there, is it possible to replace the switch only or any other suggests which would be helpful? Much apppreciated!
My heating element shows a closed circuit with no short circuit to the chassis. The other items on the chassis show a close circuit too. All tests good here, but there is no heat.
the video was great! our dryer is not getting hot. buuuut it is turning off after a few mins of it running so is our issue related to this repair , do you think?
Try it on timed dry and see if it heat up and drys for you.
On automatic cycles it will sense the moisture in the clothes. If it works in timed dry I would look into that. Could be as simple as the sensors just need to be cleaned. That’s what it was with my brothers dryer when it would turn off 10 minutes after starting. Dryer sheets are notorious for causing a film over those sensors.
Bearded Appliance Repair we tried that. Thought the same thing. since my initial comment . I tore down the dryer cleaned every thing out tested for continuity fount my element was undead broken (then found the broken wire). I know I need that. I’m on my way to the get the parts right now if they are to expensive here I’ll use your link. Next questions . will the dryer still turn if self off if it knows it’s supposed to be hot and it’s not? Is there any thing else I should test? And do you have Venmo or something where I can send you a Tip for helping out ?
Nicholas Paonessa no it should run even if it’s not heating. My question for you is. Was it taken apart and put back together than you noticed it turning off early? If so you may have forgot to hook back up the sensor that tests for moisture in the clothes. That would be the simplest thing. Beyond that I would not be able to help. I do not run into dryers where the sensors actually fail. Most of the times they are disconnected when it was taken apart or the sensors just need cleaning. I don’t have Venmo but will look into it. I do have a link for PayPal donations though. Many thanks if you do! Lol if the link isn’t in the description of this video I know I have a link on my about me on the channel.
Kudos on finding you element bad. If all else fails and can’t get it to work on automatic just use it on timed dry lol.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair no the symptoms were there b4 I opened her up. but I replaced the sensors(bc there cheap and i was in there) and heating element today. put back together and she's on her second load working fine now .thanks again
Nicholas Paonessa man yeah! Glad you got her done! Thanks for the tip, can’t tell you how much I appreciate the kind words and donation. Thanks again!
I just replaced my heating element and when I turned it on the element started to overheat and I had to shut it off! I tested my element and all the components have continuity! Any idea?
It is utter BS that you have to replace the entire heater coil assembly for an open sensor. Simple to repair, throw parts at it by default. But at what cost to the customer? Great video BTW,I'm not dissing you but rather an industry that screws the consumer.
Can i install a heating element with the 2 wire instead if the 3 and leave the white wire disconnected. The reason is the 2 wire cost 40 instead of 160 for the the 3 wire. Thanks
Wouldn’t recommend it but I would understand you doing it. I believe it’s made that way for the different heat levels. If you put a 2 wire one on you will be taking away some of the heat settings. Not sure if it would be the high heat setting or a lower setting.
Always out the right parts on is my recommendation.
Where did you get the device attached to your drill to take the back screws out?
Should be able to get it at your local hardware store.
Here’s a link for it if you can’t find one. I’m a dewalt fan- amzn.to/2LxDOfu
I have Samsung heater similar to that just quit running model#DV45k6200EZ/A3. It turn on, but doesn't spin at all, when I hit start it makes hamming sound for a second and goes out. I wonder if that is going to be related to the same element you replaced. Thanks
If it’s not turning on it will be something else. This videos helps you if it’s running but not heating. Not starting is a separate issue so you have to check other things.
Look at this video and see if you belt has broken or idler pulley is damaged. czcams.com/video/nx_rqu528rM/video.html
If those look good you can have a bad motor, something stuck in the blower housing, or thermal fuse could have gone out.
Good luck! I wouldn’t worry about heating until you get her running.
If I'm not getting any reading from any of those is that the problem?
Samsung deliberately engineered this so that you have to disassemble the entire dryer to replace the heating coil when they could have easily added a side panel access. Samsung doesn't want consumers being able to make these repairs. It baffles me as to why they do not simply add a serial bus port to the logic board so you could easily diagnose the problem before having to tear the entire thing apart for a simple repair.
Every manufacturer is like that now. On front load washers too. They don’t have access to the filter to clear it out. You have to take the front panel off the washer to get to it and not everyone would be able to do that. Good for business but not for consumers. Unless they want to learn that new skill. I love the older whirlpools where they have a kick plate you can take off to have access to the element and thermal fuse.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair I just bought the entire assembly and going to replace that. I honestly don't know why this thing doesn't have a side panel access, there's plenty of room and wouldn't add much to production cost. My samsung refrigerator just stopped working out of the blue a few weeks go as well. I took out the back plate that they say to not remove. Cleaned the board and noticed the adapter pins were copper and corroded. I thought these companies would have learned their lessons by now using copper for bus cable adapters. Once I did the cleaning, the refrigerator kicked back on and been working ever since. I thought it was odd that the logic board had inputs for wifi... that's a hacker wet dream having a safe place to put sniffers into your home network undetectable.
I replaced the heater element and fully cleaned out the vent and dryer and it worked for 3 weeks. Then the fuse blew. I replaced twice and it now blew again. Could I have put a bad heating element in that is shorting when it gets hot?
Yeah either that or a shorted relay on the control board. Make sure the ducting don’t kink anywhere either.
Leave the top off of your dryer. When you run it you should see the orange glow. Make sure it cuts off than back on. If it stays on it could be the element shorting. Cycling thermostat not reading the heat correctly or control not acting right.
Thanks. I just reset the thermal cut off for the third time. I watched the unit run through the vent hole and saw the element cycle on and off. The hose is pretty straight and clean and has a strong gust of air coming through it. This all started after I replaced the broken heater element. Then fuses started blowing. I don't know enough to invest in a control board. Any other thoughts? Is it coincidence that the element went out at the same time as a control board? Maybe I need a higher temp fuse?
Andrew Kalter no don’t want to get a higher temp fuse. Fire hazard right there.
Rule out your ducting by disconnecting the ducting completely from the wall. Run it and see if it blows again. If it does the problem lays in the dryer. It it’s works fine the problem is in your ducting and might want to re-run it.
With the dryer element cutting on and off, that tells me your cycling thermostat and board are good.
I would focus on the ducting and maybe the wiring of the element. Did you maybe wire it up wrong?
99 percent of the time those fuses blow is due to the ducting. Disconnect it from the dryer and that will tell you what to do next.
Good luck!
Thanks for all the help but I am giving up. I just replaced the element again with all the 4 of the other parts that came in the kit. The vent is totally clear and air blows strong out of the outside duct. One load and the fuse blew again. I think it is over my head and I am going to get a new dryer unless there is something easy I am missing.
So I came across same issue. No more heat so I replaced duct assembly www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BQS1ZO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Followed your video and worked for about 3 weeks. Now it stopped. Tested heating element no continuity on back so order that piece hopefully getting it tomorrow. Will check duct after reading alot of your notes. Hopefully I am not missing anything.
Hi , hopefully you can help.I have same problem , dryer is working but not heating , I checked averything , fuses , thermostat, heater , averything looks fine but not heating, dryer was seating about a year since new and never used,( warranty just expired) unpack last week hook up properly and that problem start .Please if you can help I appreciate it.
Mario..
We’re you having problem with previous dryer? Or if it’s a new built laundry room? Check power make sure it’s good. If it’s missing L2 everything will work except heating. L1 control motor and electronics along with heating. If powers checks good your looking at a control board or motor problem. With it being brand new I would think your power is not right.
Good luck
We replaced element and thermostat but still not heating?
What if we don’t have a tester?
Hello, how much did you buy the whole heating element unit and how do i get the parts number? Thanks.
Link is in the description for the element. You can purchase it through amazon.
Can you send me or post a link to where you got that exact heating element in this video?? Please and thank you
Got that element directly from Samsung. You have to have an account to order from them. Authorized services gets their parts from them during their warranty period. Samsung won’t pay for the parts otherwise.
Is the link in the description the one you purchased? That may be the best bet for you if you haven’t tried that one yet.
My dryer top will not go back on properly….am I missing anything
Watched the video and replaced element it worked for one day and it's back to not heating. Any suggestion?
High limit fuse I bet has gone out. It’s one of the parts that connect to the element. That fuse will go out if your ducting it clogged or restricted. You can clean it out with something like this amzn.to/2Oo2Csh. You push that through the ducting and should push the lint out as long as it’s doesn’t have a bunch of turn in it.
When ducting is clogged or restricted heat is trapped inside the dryer and gets too hot and blows the high limit fuse.
Good luck!
Here’s the fuse kit amzn.to/2IrKiuF. The one on the left is the high limit fuse that will blow when the ducting is clogged.
What model is this dryer?
What causes a thermal fuse to keep tripping?
Clogged/restricted ducting is the most common culprit. Could also be a shorted element. One of those two things should take care of your issue.
Same issue clear duct work and disconnected duct still won’t cycle thru . Blows the fuse . Any clue how to check the board stuck inside with Coronavirus. Six kids please help .
You element should cycle on and off. Your cycling thermostat may have failed. I would try the thermostat first though it’s a much cheaper part. If that don’t work than I would replace the board.
It was the cycling thermostat. That fixed the issue.
Those things rarely go bad for me. Been doing this 6 years and I have only replaced 2.
Replaced everything and still no heat, any idea how to test the motor? I heard it has a switch that makes the heat come on, any idea?
Did You replaced the computer?
Hi, How are you! Can you help me find the element please! I don’t know Low’s or Home Depot they have it and model, thanks
Lowe’s or Home Depot won’t have the element. There’s a link in the description where you can get it from amazon.
Thanks So much Appreciate
Hey I change the element and the fuse, and the dryer will work for about twenty minutes and then it wont get hot anymore any suggestions
Try it on timed dry. If it will heat good that way you may have missed plugging up the sensors. At 7:52 I plug it back up in the video. That may be you issue’
What fuse were you talking about?
Thermal fuse? You want to check this if your dryer will not run at all. Samsung DC47-00016A Dryer Thermostat Assembly www.amazon.com/dp/B001ICUSGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pcTDDb6PFFJHC
If your dryer will run but won’t heat it will be this fuse set SAMSUNG DC96-00887A and DC47-00018A Dryer Thermal Fuse Thermostat Pack www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5LMI4L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0fTDDbKSDANT3.
Okay so I think I have the same issue but also I can put it in any mode the dryer will turn it self off in about 5 min
Has the dryer been taken apart recently? If it has you dry level sensor may have been disconnected and not reconnected during re assembly. If they haven’t been taken apart you may just need to clean them. If you use dryer sheets they can put a layer of wax like material on them and they need to be clean every once in awhile.
The sensors are two metal bars on the inside of the dryer. You won’t see them unless you stick your head in and look down near the lint trap. They should be around that area.
Hope this info helps. Good luck
Crap, might as well turn that SOB over and cut the element out from the bottom. you dang had every thing disassembled fir that element.
I change and hate for 2 days and not not heating again what’s the problem?
Clogged duct work. That is likely why one of the fuses went out on the dryer. Heat being tapped causes that fuse to go out.
How much normally would a repairman charge me to come to my house a replace this heating element ?
Anywhere between $150-$300. I charge around $180. Depends on the company.
Re placed all this and won't run more than ten seconds or so. Cuts off and says he
Big time help. Other video too old. Thank you
Glad to help! You get it fixed?
so dont unplug it while you're taking it apart
Samsung should stick to TV's, their washers and dryers their washer and
dryers are terrible they are VERY SLOW they use VERY MUCH energy and are
not efficient at all, stay away from their washers and dryers you'll be
glad you did.
0
Dude, you need a beter microphone!
So buy him one lol
I hate my dryer stupid thing
Lol hope the video helped at least
Bearded Appliance Repair it did getting part fix it THANK YOU