After about 10 years of owning 2 cannon safes, I switched batteries and my 10yr old one started acting up. Went through trouble shooting. Got a new lock and keypad in about a week, not 20 days as i was told. Went from the securam keypad to the nl or universal. had to drill and tap new holes for NL keypad. Then the slot in the back plate for the locking pin was too low and it interfered so I couldn't open or close it. Luckily there was enough slop in the mounting holes that I could adjust it. Little nervous about the NL lock but its on my newer smaller safe.
I bought my safe 4 years ago and the safe quit locking. Called Cannon and after 8 weeks and numerous calls, I finally get the new key pad and lock only to have it missing the re locker pin. The existing screws for the old lock have the heads completely stripped out. I get to easy out the recessed one. Also the shelving inside the safe is made from cheap board and bows with hardly any weight on them. Had to install supports so I could use them.
After about 10 years of owning 2 cannon safes, I switched batteries and my 10yr old one started acting up. Went through trouble shooting. Got a new lock and keypad in about a week, not 20 days as i was told. Went from the securam keypad to the nl or universal. had to drill and tap new holes for NL keypad. Then the slot in the back plate for the locking pin was too low and it interfered so I couldn't open or close it. Luckily there was enough slop in the mounting holes that I could adjust it. Little nervous about the NL lock but its on my newer smaller safe.
I bought my safe 4 years ago and the safe quit locking. Called Cannon and after 8 weeks and numerous calls, I finally get the new key pad and lock only to have it missing the re locker pin. The existing screws for the old lock have the heads completely stripped out. I get to easy out the recessed one. Also the shelving inside the safe is made from cheap board and bows with hardly any weight on them. Had to install supports so I could use them.
Why do this?