Drive belt replacement tips and tricks on MTD Yard machine riding lawnmower with 17 1/2 hp Briggs & Stratton engine. Shows how belts and pulleys work together in motion.
Purchased this to replace a guide pulley czcams.com/users/postUgkxO9seYZjlnuP5UvMkb7osQW3WxPVeSnPk on our John Deere x304 snowblower. As I stated in the title, it is just about perfect. The stock pulley has a spacer at the bottom. I used four washers to emulate said spacer, and it works perfectly now. Great product, and great price especially if compared to typical JD prices.
Just a tip for those tired of replacing these belts so often. On my Troy built automatic transmission the drive belt stretches to where you have to push down really hard on the pedal. There is no tensioner spring to keep it taunt and there is a limited amount of travel on the idler tensioner pulleys from the pedal before the belt is too loose. The pedal is pushed all the way down but no tension. So you have to replace the drive belt even if it looks great. You can raise up the mower on a hoist or jack. Buy another idler pulley for about $12 like the two other idler pulleys (they are in line next to each other). There is enough room on the frame closely behind these pulleys to put the added pulley up against the belt until it is snug (not tight). This will be with the back side of the belt riding against the wide idler pulley (not a v shaped belt pulley). Put a punch or nail through the center hole of the added pulley with it snug against the drive belt to mark the frame. Buy an appropriate size bolt and lock nut for the center of the pulley and drill a hole that size through the mark. Then bolt the pulley to the frame. Then the added pulley will take up all the slack and the belt will gain enough tension to engage the variable speed pulley so you need not buy a new belt. I did this on my automatic. But you should be able to do it on the shift on the go model as well, but the added pulley will likely need to be bolted in a different location. If need be use spacers so the belt is centered as it rides across the pulley. When the belt finally wears out you can take the pulley off until the new one stretches and put it back on. I once had an old craftsman that prematurely stretched the deck belts. I bolted an added pulley on the deck and got plenty more wear out of the belts.
My Yardman manual won’t show me crap. Thank you for this video. This was a great visual. I literally got my belt on in less than 5 minutes. After taking off the back pulley of course.
Very helpful video.. Replaced my belt yesterday.. Removed bolts from seat and fenders.. while I had apart I undercoating frame... Thanks again for explaining
I just rebuilt my engine and replaced the needle bearings on the input shaft on the transmission. Going to replace every belt tomorrow. Great video. I have a Bolens but it is still an MTD product. It is my Mom's old mower. It is 17 years old.
Derick - I think your correct. My drive belt was slipping a lot and mower would barely move forward prior to me starting this project. New belt made a world of difference. Good luck.
I have a craftsman that has the same configuration as your mower. I cannot get the bolt loose on the top pulley so I can put the new belt on. It seems like they are putting thread lock on some of these bolts! Any suggestions? Thanks
@@puttingitogether2816 I found another video where you loosen the frame bolts on the axle then you can tilt the frame away from the top of the main drive pulley and slip the belt in without removing the pulley
Thank you for the comments. I have just replaced the drive belt and the transmission belt. I went to Sears and purchased an extension for my ratchet and a short 7/8" socket (I bought the last one!). This enabled me to get the bolt on the upper pulley loose to replace the transmission belt. I had to use a pipe wrench and breaker bar to get the bottom bolt loose to replace the drive belt. NOW, the mower fires right up, but the belts won't turn..........I am completely baffled. New belts and the mower won't move. Could something have broken when the upper belt broke?
The drive belt was worn but not broken but I figured since I was in there I might as well replace both belts. But now nothing turns and the mower sits running but the pulleys don't move.
Fuck me, I had never even thought about just prying the guides open... The pulley bolt is stuck on mine and I was getting ready to torch it loose but now I'm thinking I should just pry the damn things apart. We'll see how I feel tomorrow morning, but either way thank you for the video.
Very helpful! Great video to help me know what I am getting my self into to replace all belts. Question. I am very interested how you got the whole carriage off??? You mentioned 4 bolts but I’m not see where specifically how you removed the whole carriage to get the clean wide open access you show here Great video and thank you.
1:53 " This little beauty " points at spring: I was mowing today on my 2010 Craftsman LT2000 and I heard a " pop ". My rider kept going, so I figured must have ran over a stick or something so I just continued mowing. It wasn't until I slowed down to make a turn that I noticed a lack of power to the tractors rear end once I tried to accelerate again. The engine and blades were keeping pace like they should, but the rear end just had no get up and go. After mowing in a straight line for a bit the mower suddenly started picking up speed again. Went to make another turn again and same thing ... slow as a slug. As I was making the turn, I just happened to look on the ground and here was this thick 6 inch spring with one of the hooked ends broken off laying there. Figuring it was the culprit behind my mower acting sluggish, I scooped it up and whizzed it next to a tree until I finished mowing. I believe I found the right replacement part on Sears website. Question: Does it sound to you that more than likely that's what's going on with my mower in that there's not enough tension on my belt due that spring failing ??
ReneeNme definitely is the problem if that spring is missing ... tension will not be strong enough or consistent. Trick to putting the spring back on is to put string through the whole into the inside then loop over spring with it connected to the pulley and then pull string in spring back through the whole and hook onto the edge of the metal
probaugh1 Thank you so much for the response. I kinda expected that's what was going on. Ordering the part 2morrow. My wife does crafts and has paracord laying around her craft area so once I get the part in hand I should be all set. Again, thanks.
Hi buddy, thank you for share this video. I have the same MTD mower but the speed selector don´t work properly, always run in high speed and must depress continuosly the clutch pedal to control it May you explain me how the speed selector works, where is the linkage conected to the variable pulley. Thanks in advance
I have a MTD Yard Machine 14.5HP 42”....a belt was broken so that the mower does not move back and forth.....other thing seem ok. I tried to install the belt on, but I don’t know how to pry the belt guards open....
Just removed the seat bolts and the two bolts up front on this MTD but for some reason something else is holding the rear cover assembly from coming off. Usually I never took this off to change belts, as I use a hoist to get underneath. I bought this 46 inch cut automatic with the foot pedal for $50 but it had no deck. It has a good 20hp B&S motor but had a bad reed breather spewing oil that I replaced. Fine now. The trans is great. I have a 42 inch cut that looks near the same but is a shift on the go. Apparently the bevel gears/clutch throw out bearing assemblies are worn where they engage one another causing it to slip out of gear, Easy fix but cost a little for parts. I elongated and adjusted the shift rod out and worked fine for a while but is again slipping badly. I could take the trans off the 46 inch as they are the same. But I want to go to the automatic for better control of speeds and not needing to shift to neutral when stopping. So I wanted to take the rear cover off both mowers to better see how to interchange the parts that control the deck, so I can put the 42 inch deck on the mower that is factory rigged for the 46 inch deck if that is necessary. But for some reason after taking off the bolts shown in this video the cover is still held down at some point. It rains every dang time I go outside here in Louisiana this year. So working outside got to lay in wet grass trying to find a retainer bolt or release point underneath. So anyone knowing if another bolt or two is needed to remove this thing let me know with a reply. If not raining I will go out tomorrow and see if I can figure it out, and if necessary hoist it up. Here is a tip for those who have to re install the shift rod retainer pin to the transaxle, The pin is only a tad bit smaller than the hole so the shift rod has to be lined up perfectly in the slot with the hole in the transaxle shift rod lever or the pin end will snag up against the shift rod preventing it from going through. So it is usually a bitch to center up. After a few frustrating tries I grinded a nail like point on the retainer pin so it easily starts and aligns into the hole. Just something to save someone some aggravation and time. Peace out brothers and sisters.
Okay. After a little tugging and finding the frame cover was bound at the center, I found two small bolts under the diagram sticker that also holds this cover on. You have to peel the sticker back a little on both sides to get to the bolt/screws in order to remove them. Then this entire outer frame cover should come off. I already see that I will have to take the deck adjusting arms and cable off this 46'' set up and replace them with my 42'' arms as they are about 2 inches difference at low level from where they connect to the deck and to the axle cover of transaxle (just a measuring point to compare from). Looks like I can take the whole box like inter frame from the 42'' with the deck adjusting arms attached with it and interchange it with the box assembly on the 46" by taking off bolts that hold them to the transaxle. Figure with the big frame cover taken off it should be relatively easy to do. I see that for some reason they took the bracket off the front for the rod that holds the front of the deck up. So I will have to take off the muffler and put the one from this 42" on. Then I assume that I will be able to use this 42'' deck on this 46'' tractor seeing that the width and length of the frame seem to be the same. While I got this frame off I can more easily add the extra pulley that I talked about in my comment below in order to get much more wear from this stretched belt.
Plan A on changing over the 46'' to 42'' deck is scraped since I took the frame cover off and measured the inter frame box that holds the control arms for dropping/raising the deck. and it is about a half inch different in width from the other one, and a few other obstacles. Probably could do some rigging and get past that, but too much to take on. So I will do what I originally was going to do which is take the brackets off and change them out. So the bracket from the frame to the 42'' deck will be the same one needed to fall in the same position when it is bolted to the 46" frame. The only worry then is that the 46'' has two cables not rods that raise the deck. That cable will probably be an inch or two short with the shorter bracket. So with the deck off I will measure the height from the ground to the bracket end when it is in lowest position on the 42''. Then after putting this bracket on the 46" I will hold or block up the end of the bracket to the same height. Then I can pull the cable to the end of bracket and see where to attack it. May be able to drill a hole in it toward the end and have enough to attack the cable there. If not I can weld a piece of bracket on the end to extend it and attach the cable. That is much easier than plan A. Only thing is that I prefer the rods instead of the cables that tend to break over time.
Just changed the frame to deck brackets from this 46" decked MTD to 42'' brackets to use a 42" deck. That was all that was needed as the 42'' brackets have a hole in them for the cable that is located farther up to make up the difference of adjustment length. Just bolted the arm to the deck brackets and then attacked the cable and the deck raised fine. Learn the hard way by experimentation.
what sbout belt tension on drive belt ? when i place it in high speed (6) its not .i replaced all belts but now needs adjustment so how is that done. i have the yard machine 42 inch cut .
Off topic but I'm trying to replace solenoid on troy bilt bronco and it has similar frame...i can't get to the solenoid...do you recommend taking off the plastic piece with just those 3 bolts and I can gain access or is there an easier way....its hard to reach down around behind the battery compartment it is very tight in there
honestly not sure exactly what your looking at .... everything on my mower was easy to see what needed to be removed....maybe this link will help???? czcams.com/video/Xs3nd67ESPM/video.html
probaugh1 thank you for quick reply...starter solenoid is very hard to get to in troy bilt bronco....it is behind batter compartment and off to the left (when viewing from behind tractor looking from back to front)
Im having trouble with the starter it does want to reach the mechanism that the starter is supose to reach and so the motor does nothing. What advise can you give me?
If you see this, could you please read my post on this video and reply if you could ? Grass season is about over where I'm at, but I'll still want to mulch up my leaves this Fall with my rider.
Crystal Tyler sorry I don’t have this mower any more. I think the parts numbers were listed on a sticker under the engine cover. Hope that helps. Good luck!
the best thing to do with anything mtd ; haul it to the junk yard unless you like doing twice the work for twice the money. that dual belt drive system starts slipping at lower speeds every time one of the belts gets stretched.you have to change both belts to fix and its a pain in the ass compared to anything not mtd . engineered by morons. craftsman, john deere, husky dont have the moronic issues that mtd does. mtd ruined cub cadet, troybuilt, too. bought the companies and turned them into mtd junk. every cub cadet tractor had belt issues because of moronic engineering at mtd.
MTD mowers are a piece of shit but fixable if you have the patience and don't mind going to hell from being heard swearing your head off throughout the neighborhood.
When this is described quickly and referred to as child's play and no big deal, it makes people who are just learning feel very dumb. If you mean to help, slow down and be somehow encouraging. Shade Tree Fix It Man does a better job of that.
I know what you mean. After using the mower I just bought, it worked fine for about 8 minutes, then the belt came off of the spindles (or are they called pulleys?), and I have no idea how they go back on there (I didn't get a manual with it when I bought it). I watched 9 other videos on how to replace belts, and nobody seems to know how to film a clear instructional video, and/or they film it themselves while replacing the belts, so they are too close to what's going on. The other problem is that so many things have to be removed first, and I get lost after the first 5 or 6 things that are removed, plus, as I said before, I have no idea the order to wrap the belt around the spindles, if I can ever get the loose belt off in the first place. I could go on, but what's the point. I have yet to find a video that helps. This video though is the first one I've seen where the guy took off the entire casing of the mower, so you can see a lot more than in the other videos.
Purchased this to replace a guide pulley czcams.com/users/postUgkxO9seYZjlnuP5UvMkb7osQW3WxPVeSnPk on our John Deere x304 snowblower. As I stated in the title, it is just about perfect. The stock pulley has a spacer at the bottom. I used four washers to emulate said spacer, and it works perfectly now. Great product, and great price especially if compared to typical JD prices.
Just a tip for those tired of replacing these belts so often. On my Troy built automatic transmission the drive belt stretches to where you have to push down really hard on the pedal. There is no tensioner spring to keep it taunt and there is a limited amount of travel on the idler tensioner pulleys from the pedal before the belt is too loose. The pedal is pushed all the way down but no tension. So you have to replace the drive belt even if it looks great. You can raise up the mower on a hoist or jack. Buy another idler pulley for about $12 like the two other idler pulleys (they are in line next to each other). There is enough room on the frame closely behind these pulleys to put the added pulley up against the belt until it is snug (not tight). This will be with the back side of the belt riding against the wide idler pulley (not a v shaped belt pulley). Put a punch or nail through the center hole of the added pulley with it snug against the drive belt to mark the frame. Buy an appropriate size bolt and lock nut for the center of the pulley and drill a hole that size through the mark. Then bolt the pulley to the frame. Then the added pulley will take up all the slack and the belt will gain enough tension to engage the variable speed pulley so you need not buy a new belt. I did this on my automatic. But you should be able to do it on the shift on the go model as well, but the added pulley will likely need to be bolted in a different location. If need be use spacers so the belt is centered as it rides across the pulley. When the belt finally wears out you can take the pulley off until the new one stretches and put it back on. I once had an old craftsman that prematurely stretched the deck belts. I bolted an added pulley on the deck and got plenty more wear out of the belts.
My Yardman manual won’t show me crap. Thank you for this video. This was a great visual. I literally got my belt on in less than 5 minutes. After taking off the back pulley of course.
Very helpful video.. Replaced my belt yesterday.. Removed bolts from seat and fenders.. while I had apart I undercoating frame... Thanks again for explaining
that by far is the best way to do it .you can fight all the other stuff but why good job great vid
Thank you. That is precisely how a repair video should be made, right down to the slow walk around at the end.
I just rebuilt my engine and replaced the needle bearings on the input shaft on the transmission. Going to replace every belt tomorrow. Great video. I have a Bolens but it is still an MTD product. It is my Mom's old mower. It is 17 years old.
I want gear box oil level check
@@nakipyasin4008 The gearbox does not use oil. It uses grease.
that is the smartest way to work on them tractors - makes it much easier to change the belts - good video
Murray 30577x8a
30577x8a murray
Derick - I think your correct. My drive belt was slipping a lot and mower would barely move forward prior to me starting this project. New belt made a world of difference. Good luck.
I have a craftsman that has the same configuration as your mower. I cannot get the bolt loose on the top pulley so I can put the new belt on. It seems like they are putting thread lock on some of these bolts! Any suggestions? Thanks
puttingitogether 2 can you bend open the metal guide/retainer? I think that is what I did ...
@@puttingitogether2816 I found another video where you loosen the frame bolts on the axle then you can tilt the frame away from the top of the main drive pulley and slip the belt in without removing the pulley
Thank you for the comments. I have just replaced the drive belt and the transmission belt. I went to Sears and purchased an extension for my ratchet and a short 7/8" socket (I bought the last one!). This enabled me to get the bolt on the upper pulley loose to replace the transmission belt. I had to use a pipe wrench and breaker bar to get the bottom bolt loose to replace the drive belt. NOW, the mower fires right up, but the belts won't turn..........I am completely baffled. New belts and the mower won't move. Could something have broken when the upper belt broke?
The drive belt was worn but not broken but I figured since I was in there I might as well replace both belts. But now nothing turns and the mower sits running but the pulleys don't move.
Fuck me, I had never even thought about just prying the guides open... The pulley bolt is stuck on mine and I was getting ready to torch it loose but now I'm thinking I should just pry the damn things apart. We'll see how I feel tomorrow morning, but either way thank you for the video.
thx you are a gentleman and a scholar
Thank You this was very helpful...!!!
The Perfect instructional video!!
Very helpful! Great video to help me know what I am getting my self into to replace all belts. Question. I am very interested how you got the whole carriage off??? You mentioned 4 bolts but I’m not see where specifically how you removed the whole carriage to get the clean wide open access you show here
Great video and thank you.
Success! Thank you.
mtd look up part diagram for Models13AM762G752...in the drive diagram look at parts numbered 26 and 8..8 is the part i was refering to
Nice to know-thanks
so if my mower will not move but it starts and the blades engage, i need a new drive belt?
1:53 " This little beauty " points at spring: I was mowing today on my 2010 Craftsman LT2000 and I heard a " pop ". My rider kept going, so I figured must have ran over a stick or something so I just continued mowing. It wasn't until I slowed down to make a turn that I noticed a lack of power to the tractors rear end once I tried to accelerate again. The engine and blades were keeping pace like they should, but the rear end just had no get up and go. After mowing in a straight line for a bit the mower suddenly started picking up speed again. Went to make another turn again and same thing ... slow as a slug. As I was making the turn, I just happened to look on the ground and here was this thick 6 inch spring with one of the hooked ends broken off laying there. Figuring it was the culprit behind my mower acting sluggish, I scooped it up and whizzed it next to a tree until I finished mowing. I believe I found the right replacement part on Sears website. Question: Does it sound to you that more than likely that's what's going on with my mower in that there's not enough tension on my belt due that spring failing ??
ReneeNme definitely is the problem if that spring is missing ... tension will not be strong enough or consistent.
Trick to putting the spring back on is to put string through the whole into the inside then loop over spring with it connected to the pulley and then pull string in spring back through the whole and hook onto the edge of the metal
probaugh1 Thank you so much for the response. I kinda expected that's what was going on. Ordering the part 2morrow. My wife does crafts and has paracord laying around her craft area so once I get the part in hand I should be all set. Again, thanks.
Thank You. !!!!!!!!!!!
Question when removing 4 bolts from seat bracket? How do you re install spring afterwards very hard to stretch is there a trick ?
there are two more self taps by where your feet are at that you have to remove. no big deal but just saying. Thanks for the help.
Hi buddy, thank you for share this video.
I have the same MTD mower but the speed selector don´t work properly, always run in high speed and must depress continuosly the clutch pedal to control it
May you explain me how the speed selector works, where is the linkage conected to the variable pulley.
Thanks in advance
How did you take the bolt from the differential pulley off in the back since that shaft is in the way?
I have a MTD Yard Machine 14.5HP 42”....a belt was broken so that the mower does not move back and forth.....other thing seem ok. I tried to install the belt on, but I don’t know how to pry the belt guards open....
how do you know if it's the belts, the clutch, or the transmission? my mower will not pull up my driveway
Just removed the seat bolts and the two bolts up front on this MTD but for some reason something else is holding the rear cover assembly from coming off. Usually I never took this off to change belts, as I use a hoist to get underneath. I bought this 46 inch cut automatic with the foot pedal for $50 but it had no deck. It has a good 20hp B&S motor but had a bad reed breather spewing oil that I replaced. Fine now. The trans is great. I have a 42 inch cut that looks near the same but is a shift on the go. Apparently the bevel gears/clutch throw out bearing assemblies are worn where they engage one another causing it to slip out of gear, Easy fix but cost a little for parts. I elongated and adjusted the shift rod out and worked fine for a while but is again slipping badly. I could take the trans off the 46 inch as they are the same. But I want to go to the automatic for better control of speeds and not needing to shift to neutral when stopping. So I wanted to take the rear cover off both mowers to better see how to interchange the parts that control the deck, so I can put the 42 inch deck on the mower that is factory rigged for the 46 inch deck if that is necessary. But for some reason after taking off the bolts shown in this video the cover is still held down at some point. It rains every dang time I go outside here in Louisiana this year. So working outside got to lay in wet grass trying to find a retainer bolt or release point underneath. So anyone knowing if another bolt or two is needed to remove this thing let me know with a reply. If not raining I will go out tomorrow and see if I can figure it out, and if necessary hoist it up. Here is a tip for those who have to re install the shift rod retainer pin to the transaxle, The pin is only a tad bit smaller than the hole so the shift rod has to be lined up perfectly in the slot with the hole in the transaxle shift rod lever or the pin end will snag up against the shift rod preventing it from going through. So it is usually a bitch to center up. After a few frustrating tries I grinded a nail like point on the retainer pin so it easily starts and aligns into the hole. Just something to save someone some aggravation and time. Peace out brothers and sisters.
Okay. After a little tugging and finding the frame cover was bound at the center, I found two small bolts under the diagram sticker that also holds this cover on. You have to peel the sticker back a little on both sides to get to the bolt/screws in order to remove them. Then this entire outer frame cover should come off. I already see that I will have to take the deck adjusting arms and cable off this 46'' set up and replace them with my 42'' arms as they are about 2 inches difference at low level from where they connect to the deck and to the axle cover of transaxle (just a measuring point to compare from). Looks like I can take the whole box like inter frame from the 42'' with the deck adjusting arms attached with it and interchange it with the box assembly on the 46" by taking off bolts that hold them to the transaxle. Figure with the big frame cover taken off it should be relatively easy to do. I see that for some reason they took the bracket off the front for the rod that holds the front of the deck up. So I will have to take off the muffler and put the one from this 42" on. Then I assume that I will be able to use this 42'' deck on this 46'' tractor seeing that the width and length of the frame seem to be the same. While I got this frame off I can more easily add the extra pulley that I talked about in my comment below in order to get much more wear from this stretched belt.
Plan A on changing over the 46'' to 42'' deck is scraped since I took the frame cover off and measured the inter frame box that holds the control arms for dropping/raising the deck. and it is about a half inch different in width from the other one, and a few other obstacles. Probably could do some rigging and get past that, but too much to take on. So I will do what I originally was going to do which is take the brackets off and change them out. So the bracket from the frame to the 42'' deck will be the same one needed to fall in the same position when it is bolted to the 46" frame. The only worry then is that the 46'' has two cables not rods that raise the deck. That cable will probably be an inch or two short with the shorter bracket. So with the deck off I will measure the height from the ground to the bracket end when it is in lowest position on the 42''. Then after putting this bracket on the 46" I will hold or block up the end of the bracket to the same height. Then I can pull the cable to the end of bracket and see where to attack it. May be able to drill a hole in it toward the end and have enough to attack the cable there. If not I can weld a piece of bracket on the end to extend it and attach the cable. That is much easier than plan A. Only thing is that I prefer the rods instead of the cables that tend to break over time.
Just changed the frame to deck brackets from this 46" decked MTD to 42'' brackets to use a 42" deck. That was all that was needed as the 42'' brackets have a hole in them for the cable that is located farther up to make up the difference of adjustment length. Just bolted the arm to the deck brackets and then attacked the cable and the deck raised fine. Learn the hard way by experimentation.
what sbout belt tension on drive belt ? when i place it in high speed (6) its not .i replaced all belts but now needs adjustment so how is that done. i have the yard machine 42 inch cut .
How do you re install seat bracket with spring?
Off topic but I'm trying to replace solenoid on troy bilt bronco and it has similar frame...i can't get to the solenoid...do you recommend taking off the plastic piece with just those 3 bolts and I can gain access or is there an easier way....its hard to reach down around behind the battery compartment it is very tight in there
honestly not sure exactly what your looking at .... everything on my mower was easy to see what needed to be removed....maybe this link will help????
czcams.com/video/Xs3nd67ESPM/video.html
probaugh1 thank you for quick reply...starter solenoid is very hard to get to in troy bilt bronco....it is behind batter compartment and off to the left (when viewing from behind tractor looking from back to front)
Im having trouble with the starter it does want to reach the mechanism that the starter is supose to reach and so the motor does nothing. What advise can you give me?
No bending and tapping needed loose bolt on the bottom of the pulley. Pulley drops to first belts
Picked up a used MTD Rider it was missing the idler pulley they were wondering why it was snapping belts
How did you get the handles off?
Muito útil valeu
Now what about adjusting speed leaver and belt tension
You don't haft to take all that off to change the belt. I have one it's easy just remove the battery. And so it from there
Every video on changing belts but none on adjusting the speed tension on belts
I cant get the belt past the belt guides on the rear of the lower belt. Any suggestions ?
If you see this, could you please read my post on this video and reply if you could ? Grass season is about over where I'm at, but I'll still want to mulch up my leaves this Fall with my rider.
That's easier to get to everything. Someone gave me a mts mower and it throws a drive belt after it rolls two to three inches every time.
too get feet cover off did you have too take seat off???
Wicked Bradley Productionz I think I did take it off. I remember unplugging safety wires and then releasing spring tension to access four bolts.
I’d like to know how you started it without a battery
he used a jumpstarter pack bro...go back to the beginning of the vid...
I suppose I should have watched a little more before commenting
Can you tell me the length on the belt.
Crystal Tyler sorry I don’t have this mower any more. I think the parts numbers were listed on a sticker under the engine cover. Hope that helps. Good luck!
1:45
the best thing to do with anything mtd ; haul it to the junk yard unless you like doing twice the work for twice the money. that dual belt drive system starts slipping at lower speeds every time one of the belts gets stretched.you have to change both belts to fix and its a pain in the ass compared to anything not mtd . engineered by morons. craftsman, john deere, husky dont have the moronic issues that mtd does. mtd ruined cub cadet, troybuilt, too. bought the companies and turned them into mtd junk. every cub cadet tractor had belt issues because of moronic engineering at mtd.
MTD mowers are a piece of shit but fixable if you have the patience and don't mind going to hell from being heard swearing your head off throughout the neighborhood.
When this is described quickly and referred to as child's play and no big deal, it makes people who are just learning feel very dumb. If you mean to help, slow down and be somehow encouraging. Shade Tree Fix It Man does a better job of that.
I know what you mean. After using the mower I just bought, it worked fine for about 8 minutes, then the belt came off of the spindles (or are they called pulleys?), and I have no idea how they go back on there (I didn't get a manual with it when I bought it). I watched 9 other videos on how to replace belts, and nobody seems to know how to film a clear instructional video, and/or they film it themselves while replacing the belts, so they are too close to what's going on. The other problem is that so many things have to be removed first, and I get lost after the first 5 or 6 things that are removed, plus, as I said before, I have no idea the order to wrap the belt around the spindles, if I can ever get the loose belt off in the first place. I could go on, but what's the point. I have yet to find a video that helps. This video though is the first one I've seen where the guy took off the entire casing of the mower, so you can see a lot more than in the other videos.
Runemesa@I felt same as you did. I could not “pry” the belt guides “open”....so far. i would try again though....
there are two more self taps by where your feet are at that you have to remove. no big deal but just saying. Thanks for the help.