Is Wheel Weight Important?
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- čas přidán 17. 06. 2018
- On this episode of Wheel School we talk about whether or not wheel weight is important and what to look for.
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Cars and Coffee dudes be like saving 6oz per wheel to shave a thousandth of a second off pulling into their parking space.
Rip 💀😂
David Mooney bahahaha!
Spat my drink out.
Havnt rant into a girl yet huh? Poor guy.
Car dudes be saving 6oz per wheel, but same dudes weigh 350 lbs.
I don't even bother running wheels, pure weight savings
Your comment made me laugh out loud : )
@@RideByNight me too
I came to the same conclusion. I shaved 4lbs per wheel switching from the factory cast to monobloc forged wheels, and I didn't notice much difference driving around the street and canyons. I added too many mods at once to isolate the feedback of the lighter wheel by itself, but it didn't feel as drastic as I expected. My wallet was definitely lighter though! 😀
Thanks for the awesome input!
Lmao
That lighter wallet will help with acceleration since you always have your wallet on you
daily driving no differenct, race, track, time attack, yes as mini second counts.
For real dude...
I removed my stock mazda 5 five spoke, which weighed 24.9 lbs each. And installed a set of Miata club v spoke wheels that weighed 17.5 each, the difference in handling and grip was pretty noticeable. The real ride quality improved too , as did braking and turn in. If you can save 5 or More lbs per wheel you will feel the difference in a positive way. It looks better to with about a 10 mm offset that widens the stance.
Nice man I myself am a Mazda guy I drive a Speed3! You should upload your ride to our gallery I would love to see your Mazda! bit.ly/2Ma4oca
Me too, love Mazda. I'm on my second 6. I've looked for a speed 6 but they are getting hard to find. Thanks for the videos. Nicely presented with no spin, pun intended,haha.
Yeah nice clean speed 6's are hard to find right now, And I see what you did there 👀😂
RPF1 solves all problems
Alex Rodriguez true
RPF1 vs TE37
Round 1.
F I G H T!
Boosted Fool you can buy rpf1 new still also cheaper
Boosted Fool There's no comparison. One's completely forged, one's not.
A good, cheap alternative to the rpf1 are 6uls; however, they have a bit more limited sizing.
I tried light racing wheels on my MR2 SW20 and several things to note: 1. It would break traction in 1st, annoyingly so because that killed the awesome take-off traction it had. 2. Over potholes it was a dream. I could literally go over potholes at a decent speed and the suspension would just sort everything out.
I eventually went back to the bigger heavier wheels. I guess with my particular setup and not taking into account wheel widths and compounds etc 1st gear would just hook reliably each and every time. Unfortunately potholes would sound like you crashed into something at anything faster than a crawl.
In drag racing, a general rule used(for most average cars) is that any 100 lbs of mass removed from the car is worth 0.1 second off the 1/4 mile time. When it comes to rotational mass, every 25 lbs is worth 0.1 second as well. This includes all rotating items..... Wheels, tires, brakes, axles, driveshafts, flywheel, clutches, balancers, crankshaft..... It all adds up. However..... You still need enough material in these to do the job & do it safely. Is 1/2 lb of wheel weight going to affect the time, sure, not a lot, but if it costs hundreds of dollars or puts the part at risk of failure, it's not worth it to most.
AndreS123_03 and that is why I don’t like carbon fiber drive shafts
@@flat6targa why? They are stronger than steel.
@@TheDarkToes less ductile
I'll add that I bracket race, so weight isn't as big of a concern as consistency, durability & just getting the job done. Some racers still go after weight saving in huge ways but it costs $$$ in most cases, other than just removing unnecessary parts which is free.
I could easily save 40+ lbs on my wheels alone, but it will cost $1200, and only get me 0.2 seconds. Not worth it.
@Fu Nguyenwhen it comes to wheels & tires, they all accelerate the same, front or rear, mass is mass. Unless you plan on spinning them a lot i.e. burnouts or drifting...
On my 2012 camaro SS I when from stock to Forgestar F14’s and save 8-10 pounds and it was pretty noticeable.
But unsprung weight is also important because it reduces the effort of your suspension, making it more sensitive. When the wheel hits a bump, there is a lot more momentum for the spring and shock on the upstroke and a lot more effort to push back on the downstroke (inertia). Thus less strain and makes the suspension last longer.
So it's kinda important as well?
Very true.
So we should all buy 26" wheel right?
Totally missed the most important aspect for a road car - ride quality. Heavier wheels won't move over bumps as easily, making a harsher ride. And this can play into suspension control too (taking longer to slow down, reverse and recontact the road).
Aspect ratio has a bigger affect on ride quality.
I don't know, I typically use steel wheels for my daily commuter with a soft suspention.
The faster I go over speed bumps the less I feel them.
But if I go over the speed bump slow I feel them a lot more.
Where is the inverse is true with light wheels.
Suspension being the same set up. Soft.
But I lose a lot of traction with light wheels and a soft suspension.
Versus heavy wheels and a soft suspension.
But if I use a tight suspension with light wheels or heavy wheels every bump jars my spine.
Having heavier wheels with a soft suspension is the way to go for ride quality.
But if you have a tight suspension it won't matter whether you have light or heavy wheels.
Your ride will suck either way.😢
I went from a cast Verde 19x8.5 wheel that weighs 31lbs to a flow formed Neuspeed Rse142 19x8.5 that weighs 22lbs and I gotta say it is a BIG difference. Now my car accelerates faster, brakes faster, steering is more responsive, and it corners better. Literally feels like as if 120+ lbs was taken off my car.
Great video guys, well done
@Faggot Rotten I do, it's in the latest tire test video
As a car guy but mainly a cyclist(the sporty overly serious type) i can really relate to that. Although i never heard somone say that unsprung mass is 15times worse than unsprung weight, many say that its at least a few multiple times. The rotational mass matters in my case more since the ratio between rider weight and power to the wheel weight is quite diffrent to cars. Many state that saving 300g on your wheels is like saving 600-900g on your frame. I can agree with twice the factor, but not more than that.
For example: My old training wheelset weighs 2,1kg. My newer one 1,9kg. Apart from sightly higher stiffness, everything stays the same. But acceleration and tracking feels so much better. I could easily get some 1,2kg wheelsets that would make an even bigger diffrence.
Unsprung mass is a bit more difficult. I changed from a very heavy 1,1kg front tire to a lighter 850g one. Fork stays the same. The suspension reacted noticeably better to smaller bumps and vibration, but bigger hits were just as uncomfortable. But im talking about very minor diffrences. You would have to have 500gish tires to really feel the unsprung mass get less. Sure, your suspension is working more, but is actually less active. In my eyes is the whole brabble about unsprung mass only for the ones that need to shave split seconds
Biggest thing I noticed when I saved 5 poulds off a wheel in my car was the braking response. Felt way better.
That's awesome!
what about mpg?
Long story short. I somehow ended up with a car with OEM 15"'s steelies and "amazing" 17"'s alloys, low profile tires, bla bla bla! The whole shebang! Honestly they looked more or less nice! Although they were also stupidly heavy, add the wrong offset, etc. AND worse of all the car behaved like a pig! The worst imaginable made it literally undrivable with a terrible behavior!
Cure... The good old OEM steelies! My God what a world of difference! Excellent braking, excellent corner behavior. WAY lighter! The entire pose on the road was exactly as predicted by OEM engineers! Live and learn the stupid kids here dump money on ignorance, because it looks "nice". That's it! ;-)
@@crpth1ok boomer
Some people at autox run stock wheels just because we are cheap asses. Tires are more important than lighter weight wheels. Oh and driving time.
We completely agree with tires! But this is for people who want to run good aftermarket ones as well!
I recently switched wheels up from
18x9 245 front/18x10 265 rear to
18x7.5 245 front/18x7.5 255 rear
It was a profound difference in driveability and response of the motor. My first set of wheels were 120lbs for all 4 and my current set is only 84lbs total. So a big difference in unsprung weight (rotational mass) was achieved.
That's awesome!
4x4forlyfe that’s cool I have a set of 17x8 225 on all four and it weighs 164lbs lol . I’m planing to hopefully reduce the weight by half
Had an Altima hybrid line up with me the other day (yea, I know): four big guys inside, chrome 20" wheels. Combined, that's about a half ton added to their car. I'm not exactly in prime physical condition, but I could jog faster than that thing accelerated.
255 on 7.5 wide? How does that look (link to pics)?
I had a 98 Jetta that I put 17” tsw imolas on in place of the factory wheels. The handling felt better but it felt slower and took away about 7-8 mpg. Not sure what the weight difference was between the two but it must have been a bit to rob that many mpgs. I loved the look and kept them on for years, to me the look was more important than performance because it wasn’t a fast car anyway.
Bottom line... lighter is always better.
I got a 2018 ram sport a few months ago. It came with the R/T style 22x9 wrapped in Fortera 285 45R22. They weigh in at 90 lbs each. I'd love to shave off some poundage. But there are so few options for a sport touring type concave style of wheel for a dodge ram. It's been lowered 3/5 so the big offroad wheels with a -50 offset are out of the question. LOL!
Sry didn't hear what you're talking about because of this spectacular NSX. Daaamn boi...
Unpopular opinion: just informing myself to see if it'll impact my mpgs positively
When I bought my car it had 17s that weighed 24pounds each I got stock 14 inches and went with a slightly lighter than sock which is about 12 pounds each. And the improvement is dramatic. Before when I would Cruze and let go of the throttle I seen my speed drop like an anchor. But now that I have way much lighter wheels I gain speed easier and can coast without having my foot on the throttle. Saved me a lot of gas. As I’m handling I’m not sure about the heavier wheels wasn’t really driving aggressively when I first got the car. That was the first mod I did to my car. I remember looking at the car when I was buying it and thinking those rims have to go.
Dang thats awesome!!
my commuter car is 2100lbs and has 94hp. my stock wheel and tire combination was around 60lbs per, I reduced this 33lbs each by switching to a forged set and lighter tires. The improvement in efficiency is noticeable as is the handling, and this is just a basic commuter car I drive like an old man.
Went from 14in steel wheels with 195 all seasons, to 15in Enkei RPF01s with 205s and there was a noticeable difference in acceleration, braking and turn in.
There was about an 11lb difference between the two setups.
Rotary forged is the best bang for the buck, dropped a tenth of second in the 1/4 mile after dropping 8lbs per wheel.
10/10 agree 🙌
for a dismal tenth of a second you're dropping $2000 more for a set of wheels lol... no thanks
@@alexsimon915 not really, rotary forged wheels are very inexpensive, Ive seen prices from $500(all 4) to $1300(all 4)
For what costs?, for what reason?.
1/10th of a second is negligible and lost in the noise of weather/humidity, road condition, tire wear/heat, etc.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I WILL USE MY STEEL WHEELS FOR NOW. THEN IN THE FUTURE UPGRADE TO AN ALLOY WHEEL. GREAT VIDEO AND EDUCATION. THANKS FOR SHARING. I LEARNED SO MUCH.
Cornering, acceleration and braking improved a lot after I switched from 25 lbs stock wheels to 17 lbs Konig Ultraform wheels on my Scion. I do not race, but my commute is way more enjoyable now.
wow so even your stock Scion wheel weights a bit more than my stock 16" on my truck, think its around 23lbs? But it's 54lbs tire mounted.
@@NXT_LVL I listed wheel weight without the tire. Every pound of weight actually makes a big difference
My 2019 Mazda3 HB AWD 18s is 26.8lbs. Stupidly heavy. I put on Pirelli P Zero AS Plus UHP which are 19.2lbs vs OE Toyo A40 eco passenger tires that are 23lbs. Hug difference in feel, especial when the tire's polar motion is furthest from the center hub. Reducing weight furthest from the center.. Long chirped the other night taking a left hand corner at the light, even with AWD. Makes the car feel more sportier and responsive than before. I have to get some light weight wheels now. I'm in my early 40s, I probably should invest my money in other things, but I love spirited driving on the twisties while having some comfort and practicality.
@@DroneStrike1776 interesting. I never looked at the tire weight, just the rims. It was a great learning experience.
I have a G37 IPL and when I got new tires that were 2 pounds lighter than before the first thing I noticed was how much lighter the steering got, so I can only imagine how much of a difference lighter wheels will make. They are 27 up front and 28 in the rear. Hopefully there will be some good black Friday sales this year......
The benefits of lower unsprung weight is more noticeable on roads that are not as smooth. Less unsprung weight is easier for the dampers to accurately control. This translates to the tires making or maintaining better traction with the road surface. Lighter wheel/tire packages also have better gyroscopic properties (motorcyclist know this all to well) making it easier to transition steering angles.
Steeda did a dyno video on lighter wheels. Each wheel was 12 lbs lighter than stock and they gained 6 hp. Only 2 wheels running of coarse, so 24 lbs for the 2 wheels added 6 hp or 1/4 hp per pound
Note that most cars have four wheels to accelerate, so the gains would be doubled.
Yes, wheel weight is important. A large, heavy flywheel is harder to spin from stationary and harder to stop once momentum is up than a smaller flywheel. I prefer smaller wheels generally (I like small, lightweight sportscars and zipping through forest roads - calling for constantly changing speeds and direction), but I do have to admit - bigger wheels allow for larger brakes and that is definitely a positive when high performance tuning.
As someone just starting (kinda) with the car scene in general these kinds of channels are a gift from God himself. Do you know how much of googling and info collecting you saved me from?
I love you all
have fun with the wheel and tire specs for your own car. I've spent far more hours than I'd like to admit on finding the correct wheel-tire ratio and bolt pattern. this will be a nightmare especially if you are like me and your car isn't listed on websites like tire rack.
RPF1 are not even forged. They have Little material for a cast wheel that's why they are light but it means they bend easily. Forged wheels saves more than a kilo per wheel if the same strength of the wheel is kept.
How is "God" responsible from someone's time and dedication to spread information? But I agree with you.
Sam M-L He guided me to the information I desired, and guided them on this path they are on
CROblazer420 I like your sense of humor.
Thanks I enjoy your info
I used to have an SRT-4 and the difference between the stock wheels and the set of forged wheels I had for it WAS TREMENDOUS. They were 7 lbs lighter a piece than the stock wheels and that car was a handful with them lol.
I ordered some wheels for my car that are 8 pounds lighter per wheel and this is the type of comment I wanted to see lol. I hope I have similar results as you.
@@BunnyBUNGALO it’s crazy how much of a difference it makes lol. It doesn’t sound like much but you definitely notice the difference in a front wheel drive car lol.
I feel like the drift community has both types of people
Yes
haha for sure!!
Great info!
Thanks this is helpful, I’m trying to decide if it’s worth it to ditch my 24lb wheels or not. Wheels I’m looking at are 17lb so 28lb difference.
Keep up the great videos Fitment Industries !
🖤🖤🖤
I went from 30lb wheel/tires to 35lb ones on a 2200lb 1991 Toyota AE92 and it was dramatically different. Acceleration was way slower and I started getting 24mpg down from 30mpg. Really surprised me. Granted the car only has around 100hp but the heavier setup really ruined the fun and zippy feel of the car around town and in the forest roads.
Great video. I'm not interested in more performance but cost savings vs Wheel weight. Could you do a video about this?
Did you test accelerating or maintaining speed going uphill or frequent stop and go?
Great Video. gotta add with rotating mass, its way more noticeable effect with lower power vehicles, especially motorbikes and ebikes.
Well like my truck you can drop about 7-10lbs wheel/tire with proper after market, and math for rotational mass for it works out to about 2.4to1 for every lb removed or equivalent non rot mass savings of 60-100lbs.
I just replaced my factory wheels and tires (20x8.5 w/ 245/40R20 Potenza's) on my electric car with Enkei`s RPF1 18x8 and 235/50R18 Michelin Energy Saver's. My weight at each corner went from 65lbs to 43lbs. The resulting range improved by 30%-52% depending on my driving style at the time and oh... my acceleration is very noticeable.
Although this is more of a racing/sport thread here, the fact that I have seen a dramatic improvement in efficiency confirms to me that weight does matter.
That's super cool to hear as I am very interested in getting an electric car and did not know how putting aftermarket wheels would effect acceleration, gas mileage etc!
Most of it comes from that energy saver.
It's not only wheel weight. But the tire+wheel weight. I had 17x8 PF01 + 235/40R17 Ziis weight 43lb each corner, vs factory 17x7 and 205/45R17 potenza S04 weight 37lbs. Factory set up is noticeably lighter, engine have less load, rev up faster. Although I like the wide wheel look and ultimate lateral grip of my 17x8 set up, car feels faster with 17x7s. But I only had 160hp. If you have 500hp, I doubt you can feel the difference as much.
The other main thing when trying to get a fast car is areodynamics. Some people with those fast cars use weight reduction to get from 10 sec car to a 9 sec car with weight redux. Thats huge thats like adding 100 to 200hp to them.
I just recently found out that wheel weight is very important a month or two ago upgraded my wheels from 18 X 7 and 1/2 to 18 x 8 and that half an inch sure did a lot of weight my car now takes longer to to accelerate and my fuel economy has went down if I had known then what I know now I would have just stayed at the regular with
Don ellis damn bro i jus did the same thing 😭
I like the points this video makes without getting too technical. Rotational mass or rather rotational inertia is important but at the point that most cars have more than enough torque to spin up four rims a majority of power goes to moving the mass of vehicle itself. On the unsprung weight argument i would agree that it will only be noticeable on a track as lower unsprung mass allows the suspension system to reacted faster to changes in the road surface and regain/retain traction especially at high speeds. A video on car suspension would be cool, especially focusing on the correct ways to lower your car as stock geometry cannot simply just paired with shorter springs or coilovers without sacrifice.
Grassroots managed to knock off .29 sec 0-60 from 12lbs each corner. That's with a Miata NA 115hp and pathetic torque. I'm sure lighter cars with around 200hp/tq will hugely benefit from losing 12lbs, not just on the track. There's a video of an Fiat 124 with 16lbs OZ wheels vs stock 22lbs and he achieved over .30 sec better acceleration from 30-75 pulls in 3rd gear. Over three tenths is a lot when you consider that each run only takes 7 seconds. So it's not just on the track, it's road handling manners, steering, braking, potholes, and comfort you get from reducing unsprung weight. The only way you won't feel any benefit if your car makes a ton of power and is already heavy like an M3/4 or Mustang GT etc., unless you're driving a 5th gen Camaro SS with wheels weighing similar to the moon.
I noticed my car's absorbers worked a lot better when I changed to lightweight rims.
On top of that I used to run 25mm spacers with stock rims and unsurprisingly it caused the wheels to lock up a lot due to how heavily it is, so much so the car had a bit of negative camber.
Needless to say my abs no longer kicks in as often, with these new rims the car steers a lot faster, goes and stops quicker, the car bounces back to original height a lot quicker. Additional benefits include, better gas mileage, cool looking car.
I think i shaved at least 8 pounds of weight off each wheel.
I would like to know more about the "fancy" stuff of the ratio of spring wieght
Went from
32lbs 18x10.5 235/40
to
17lbs 17x9 205/40
in the rear for drifting. I know it helped me spin the wheels easier, but by how much?
Great vids, as usual 😌
❤️
Could you please make a video about the weight mass for the turning of the wheel? I would like to know more about the weight distribution of different type of rims. Thats the part you were talking about it being better to be further away from the center of something. Thank you for the vids im just now getting into the car scene.
I imagine the strain heavier wheels can put on the drivetrain. The last think I want to have to worry about is snapping an axle.
What brands would you recommend as far as lightweight performance wheels? And actually make 20 inch wheels
I have these nice 18" 5 spoke polished centerline wheels from early 2000s. "Monsoon storm". Used to be on my first car a 96 z24 those things are LIGHT af. Like 16lbs each. I wish like hell theyd fit my 18 WRX I'd powdercoat them and slap em on 😅😅 You could totally tell with those things vs the stock 16s. That cavvy was a fun car. Hate fwd but was a great first car in many levels
The thing is, the better driver your are and the more cars you start to drive, the more and more you feel the small changes in a car.
my oem wheels had 25kg per wheel and my aftermarket one are 13.5kg per wheel :D i think it did a difference
My car, if I don't move it like for 3 weeks or longer, all fluids are like gone. And when I start my car, I need 5 min to wait for them to like move in where they need. How do I know ? I once needed quickly go to city. And I didn't wait. Oooo that was a fun ride when you get a workout jus to drive into street.
I changed wheels on my Golf R and saved 10 lbs a wheel (but the larger tires weighs more). I felt a difference!
ColdPetRat2.99 it doesn’t, I just meant the bigger tires weigh more than the smaller tires.
nice explanation
Nice cameo in the new dyoster media video Alex!
He's an insane videographer
OEM: 225/60R18 @7" => 245/45R20 @8.5" that was a lighter wheel despite the size increase. It's not an exact 1:1 comparison because of different tire brand, size, width, etc. but the biggest thing I noticed was when the car was coasting on the highway (rolling w/o throttle), once up to speed, it took longer for the heavier wheels to slow down, and the lighter ones slowed down notably faster.
0-60 and 60-0 was not notably different. Initial testing of 60-0 was actually worse, but that may have had something to do with alignment and setups (more camber = worse braking).
Cornering was also a big difference, but that had more to do with the width of tire than weight.
Yeah man any time you start obviously stancing your car or giving it wider tires and filling that wheel well you are gonna experiencing some changes when driving the car day to day. It is the price you pay man!
the unsprung writeups i have seen are referring to rotational mass. i think it is the cute way of saying the things that spin and in that sense the reduction of rotational mass is greater then the static mass.
Rotational mass is key. Great to save weight with wheels, but look at the tires first. These factors seem to make a bigger difference with an AWD car. We've dyno'd lightweight Baer rotors, along with light wheels/tires in the Evolution community and saw consistent gains. On my own Evo IX, we dropped close to 35lbs of rotational mass. It's a difference you can feel. Not necessarily as speed, rather as a more nimble, more tossablle machine.
Getting rid of heavy runflat tyres was the best thing I ever did.
scanspeak00 , How Much Did They Weigh ?
I had very light 15's and they spin WAY better then any wheels same size
I drive a BMW E90 turbocharged 2.0 liter diesel with 221 lbf-ft torque and 143 hp, with 6-speed automatic. Current setup is 16 inch wheels with 18.7 lbs each wheel. I want to install 18 inch wheels which have 25.2 lbs each, so 6.5 lbs difference per wheel. Will this affect my acceleration and 1/4 mile time? I mean, if it is 0.1s I can live with it, but not more?
Something to consider in rotational mass is tire weight, something ppl don’t necessarily think about. A similar tire while 2lbs lighter will make more difference than saving 2lbs on a wheel due to the weight being further from the center
Someone who knows what they are talking about! Weight matters more the further it is from center.
I can feel the improvement switching from 23lb OE Toyo A40 eco tires vs the 19.2lbs Pirelli P Zero AS Plus UHP on my Mazda3 HB AWD (BP). The polar rotation being furthest from the hub is a huge benefit to acceleration, handling, steering, and braking. Bumps are not as harsh and it's way more comfortable.
@@lil2.74 Polar rotation is extremely important since it's furthest from the hub. You can get lightweight forged wheels, but you won't get it's fully benefit if you're using heavy tires.
@DroneStrike1776 Ya thats exactly what I said, weight matters more the further away from center. The furtherest from center would be the tire. Thats why I run a 255/50r20 Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 plus on my F150, 30 inch overall diameter is the shortest I am willing to go, that is the lightest 30 inch diameter tire I have found at 30lbs. It also has a very high speed rating and gets very good traction in various conditions. And it survived rugged mountain roads during deer season, not one puncture.
Dropped 10 pounds per corner on my G42 M240i xDrive and it's very noticeable in a good way.
I bought new wheels and tires on my car😎. Tires were garbage on OEM wheels, I bought Continental DWS06 Tires, daily driver G35 coupe. great Summer rain winter combo. Sitting on Rohana RC10's.
This thing sounds sexy.. 👀 Have you uploaded your ride to our gallery?
I just put some new wheels on my WRX. They’re about 5 lbs lighter each. I noticed the car is a little more responsive. Would I do it again? Yes, the Motegi wheels I bought are only about $700 for the set and I don’t care about blingy bling or hella flush.
@Fitment Industries if you guys haven’t done a video about the effects of wider wheels and aggressive offsets (tramlining and turning circle) please do!
Thank you! Most stock rims are cast rims and weigh in at 30 - 35lb. Going with a Rohana is 25lb. Thats 40lbs off rotational mass of the vehicle transmission fly wheel, and other related components. I wish you would of talked about that difference in the example? 35lb rims to a 25 lb. Correct to say it would add in speed take off and reduce engine/trans energy . That is pretty huge per wheel factor. I called FITMENT and talked to one of your guys about going with a 20 Rohana, and a 245 40 20 instead of a 245 35 20, to have more side wall for better driving and avoiding pot hole damage. It only adds a 1lb extra in tire weight, adds more revolutions in the tire revolution per mile, but saves 10 lbs per wheel= 40lbs total off the start...wouldn't that work just the same as going with a 245 35 20 and a heavy 20 inch rim? And wouldn't it be better to just stick with a lighter 19 inch rim, and 245 40 19 saving in rotation mass? Thank you!!
Great points we can certainly have videos that go more in depth for you guys curious about more information! As always you can shoot us an email at wheels@fitmentindustries.com and we can help you with your fitment!
what about the weight rating, how much you can tow on those wheels for example
Enkei states on their website that for each pound of unsprung weight saved its equivalent to 20 pounds of vehicle weight saved. There’s probably a limit to this but I’m guessing Enkei has done the research/testing. I just installed some 18x8 Advan Racing RS2’s on my 2013 Audi S4. I weighed the RS2’s without tyres and the stock wheels without tyres (same size 18x8) and they were 8.1kg and 12.7kg respectively. That’s 4.6kg per wheel or ~55% saved per wheel. I haven’t taken them for a decent drive yet because I just installed them today but even just driving home the car felt a tiny bit more responsive to throttle inputs. It could be all placebo but it felt good and they look way better than stock so I’m happy.
Enkei has done their commercial job, if there was a result of testing which they say, we should have seen this "scientific" results in this vid.
Very important went from stock wheels which were aluminum to a heavier aftermarket wheel car changed completely on how it drove
insane!
Do a video on the Forgeline wheels. Most specifically the new carbon fiber series.
Can you guys please make a video on which air bag suspension systems are the best
I Don't Exist no cuz you don't exist
Samuel Santana lol
I thought they already did a video like that .
We certainly can!
I second this
Thank you sir.
thank you for your support
Wheel weight would matter for both racers and eco junkies. I'd imagine a great long term fuel cost saving with lighter wheels. Those eco boxes also have tyres that aren't as wide which would reduce friction of the tyre against the road. At the expense of traction ofc
My daily is a painfully stock (so far) 03 Corolla. The stock 15 inch steel wheels are 20ish pounds each. Found a set of 15 inch Prius alloys that weigh around 14 pounds each. Removed the tires from the steel wheels and mounted them on the alloys, so only weight change was the wheels. Around ~6 pounds per wheel, 24ish pounds total reduction.
There is a noticeable difference in ride comfort, braking, steering and acceleration, as well as a SMALL up tick in fuel economy. Obviously not a performance application or car, but the difference surprised me as my only goal was replacing the steel wheels for aesthetic reasons lol.
For the ~$150 spent on the wheels, lugnuts and switching tires over, it was absolutely worth it for my purposes. I imagine for a purpose built car, fine adjustments with smaller amounts of weight could be beneficial, but at such a cost that it may be not worth it.
my car had after market 16inchs tires on it i went back to a 15inch the stock size but went with some rims that was 14lbs by enkei i noticed a difference i dont know if it was the weight or just going to a more stock size wheel
Would the weight savings be worth it for a forged 18" wheel vs a cast 16" if they were the same pattern/design. The billet being much lighter but further out. The biggest benefit would be more/bigger brake options for an otherwise unsupported 80s sports car.
tires should go hand in hand with wheel weight do to side wall stiffness some cars suck with certain tires that are suppose to be amazing
You didn’t mention gas mileage. So if I have the exact same car that gets 30 miles to the gallon with stock tires and rims, and I do a long drive (the whole tank,) through a few towns with signal lights, will it make any appreciable difference if my wheel weight is reduced by a few pounds?
What you mean by hub weight? How can you tell if a wheel is hub weighted or not? I’m looking to buy 1pc low pressure cast wheels for my 4x4 truck. They are about 2lbs lighter than stock. Just wondering if I would realize any mpg savings or performance
On i30N the difference between stock and performance wheels of same size is 10-12 lb per wheel. I didn't weight the wheels, but even they say that wheels on project c version o.z. wheels are 22 kg(48.4 lb) lighter in total and the difference between last few pounds is doubled in price
Yes it matters!
Please do more "practical" videos like this over the normal show focussed stuff. I like both, but the functional topics are more useful.
Thank for the input!
I have motegi traklites on my wrx, 18.2 per wheel and stock were 26.6, yes I feel a difference but only slightly mostly in steering/braking at higher speeds but it's nothing big
Hi, goofy Q from me. I have a 2008 VW Rabbit with the IE intake manifold, so it's a bit quicker than stock. Stock wheels on this thing are pretty much steelies, which are about 25 lb per wheel. I could buy some wheels that were about 9-10 lb lighter per wheel... for not a helluva lot of cash, all things considering. Rabbit has about 200hp (crank) max. Think I'll feel a difference here?
Im loking at new wheels for my camaro 2ls. The Stock wheels are about 31 pounds each, if i get wheels that are about 8-10 pounds lighter, should i expect to notice a signifigant difference in acceleration?
I have heard that not only does it improve acceleration but it reduces stopping distances.
I really wanna know about it
Yes, next!
Can you make a video about the best lightweight rim on a budget in the $1,000-$2000 range? I have an Infiniti M56 S with the rim and tire totaling at 71lbs which is insanely heavy, would love to see some recommendations!
We can definitely look into it! 🤘
Would I feel a difference gong from stock MKV GTI Huffs to a set of RPF1s ?
You'd be running some aftermarket wheels which is an upgrade! 😂
So, how much does it effect fuel consumption? Of course the bigger and heavier wheel the rotational mass will be affected, could you compare how much the same wheel in 16, 18 and 20”?
I have oem style 44 Bmw alu wheels on my e46 coupe with 225/45 r17 tires.The mass of that wheel with tire is 21.1 kg.When I put winter tires (steel wheel/205/55 r16 mass is 17.1 kg)So....on that winter setup car is much easier to drive....better brakeing,better acceleration,better fuel economy.Only in corners is little bad for precision(winter tires are not good for sporty driving).So.....If you reduce rotacional mass.....you will be more happy with your car.
So if I go from a 23 lbs set of wheel to a 19 lbs set, will that shave time on the quarter mile?
there actually is a dyno proven ratio between shaving off static weight vs rotational mass and the ratio happened to be 1:8.4.
Hi,
I have a 2017 Mazda 6 with the OEM wheels, which are 30 lbs,. I'm looking at RPF1 wheels which are 20 lbs. What kinds of differences with the new wheels?
It would make your car overall respond better, and weight reduction, obviously