Bambu Labs Banding Fix, Step-By-Step Tutorial!
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- čas přidán 21. 09. 2023
- If you have these banding patterns in your Babmu Labs X1C or other BL prints, it may be caused by your belts either having improper tracking, your gantry-to-Y axis may not be square, or your tensions may be off, or all three! In this video I tackle all these issues in step by step order. Though these may not be the root cause of your issues, it is a good idea to start with these remedies to eliminate them as a possible cause.
Non-common items needed:
Print this set of Standoff Clamps, you won't need the other parts with my method:
www.printables.com/model/4594...
Two identical drafting angles such as these:
www.amazon.com/dp/B089NLQ3WQ/...
Use coupon code "BONEYARDFIVE" at checkout to receive 5% off at www.Numakers.com for all your filament needs!
Referral link for 5% savings on filament: numakers.com/?ref=Boneyard - Jak na to + styl
Omg. I subscribed. THANK YOU! I was somehow almost 2 mill out of square. I had horrible z banding. To fix it I tried retention in the belts per bambu wiki, retention z belt, clean carbon rods, clean and line z screws, take apart entire tool head and clean and lube extruder gears, run every filament flow calibration there is, did a factory reset, recalibration, new XY belts, new, extruder circuit board, new hot end. And your method fixed it. Can’t believe it was so simple. Why bambu support didn’t have me do this in the first place is really bad. Thank you again!
By far the best video I found for the belts. Thanks for the video!
This video was of great help in resolving my issue with belts rubbing the flanges. Much appreciated.
My god I've been looking for months for something that explains the process to someone not quite savvy with core XY printers.. Thank you!
Excellent video. Very clearly and easily explained. I have some ghosting going on with my prints. I figured I'd watch the whole video so I understand it before attempting to adjust anything. About to go through those steps then get a print going!
Great video! Thanks for taking the time!
Great video. I'm getting a used X1C coming today, should work fine but I plan to do the works when it comes to cleaning/inspecting everything and this video is great to keep in mind.
Great video. This did the trick for me. Thank you.
Would have been cool to see a before and after print of the banding and improved dimensional accuracy.
Thank you for sharing this!
Many thanks for explaining how to set up the belt tensioner idler pulleys
Great video. Thank you sir!
Great Video, Thanks! Would be great to see before and after... to see if this works get any improvements
Excellent ! thanks
Thank you.
Great video I have been struggling with banding since I bought this printer 12 months ago. Having the Belts centered in the pullies made all the difference.
Wonder why they don't have self centering pullies.
Going to order the Triangles now.
I just wonder what camera is that or why are there so many frame drops.
The other end of a caliper also has a depth gauge, works better in some situations.
Just an FYI... make sure you order the 8-inch 45/90 drafting angles. The 8-inch 30/60 triangles don't work on the right side as one of the stepper motors for the gantry is in the way and prevents it from bottoming out in the back.
Good catch! 👍 Mine were 8" from my local Office Max.
I made a mistake ordering European 8-inch 45/90 drafting angles based on your recommandation and ended more than a month later with two expensive useless squaring tools. Indeed, here in Europe the dimension of the squaring tool refers to the hypotenuse! Which means that the resulting tools are too small, thus far apart in the printer, therefore useless. P|ssed off!
The corresponding drafting angle in Europe to the US 8" isosceles (45/90) tool is not a 8" aka 21 cm drafting angle (which is too small) but a 28 cm one (11" hypothenuse)!
@@fluxcapacitor will 30cm or 31cm 45° also work?
Omg. I subscribed. THANK YOU! I was somehow almost 2 mill out of square. I had horrible z banding. To fix it I tried retention in the belts per bambu wiki, retention z belt, clean carbon rods, clean and line z screws, take apart entire tool head and clean and lube extruder gears, run every filament flow calibration there is, did a factory reset, recalibration, new XY belts, new, extruder, circuit, board, new hot end. And your method fixed it. Can’t believe it was so simple. Why bambu support didn’t have me do this in the first place is really bad. Thank you again!
@@fluxcapacitor
I just bought 2 sets of Helix R36011 Oxford 31cm 45 & 60 degree Set Squares (Amazon uk B00CPT6XEQ )
Have I made a mistake?
Thanks.
TOP Thanks.
So can I check the squareness with feeler gauges instead of the drafting angles? Like measure the gap where you put your tape shim?
Thansk!
Holy fucking shit batman. it really worked. the tracking was my issue and well... its now fixed. really have to say thank you for bringing this to my attention. (and yeah pretty much every tensionroller is misaligned :D)
And adjusting only those back idlers worked for you? Did you do the other steps as well? I'm suffering from bad banding
Yeah what he said ? Can u give some feed back
@@cwill6491u figured it out?
good morning! This is certainly a greatcheck for a big discrepancy. But there are more variables bringing VFA to the table.. And Im very sure this did not get rid of all your VFA.
What would you recommend?
@@pavelm6677the new feature that compensates for midband resonance of stepper motors makes it 50percent better. The other 50 percent maybe with further tuning you can improve but these parameters are not available yet for the user to change. Also corexy inherently has these issues doubled as the AB motors are permanently coupled and makes it harder to pinpoint the bad rpm ranges for each motor, furthermore i think the answer for perfect looking walls tends to be using linear motors. I have a hunch thats where BBL is going next. who knows? For now upgrade the firmware and find a speed range that is happy. Orca slicer has a good VFA test for speed "calibration".
When I built my Pro 3D V-KIng 400 from self sourced parts I ordered the belts and pully's from the same vendor and the belts are the same size as the pully so there is no oscillation of the belts in the Z plane and they run perfectly true, I find it strange that Bambu used larger pully's than the belts.
Going to buy a p1s or an x1 in the next couple of months. Doesn't this come calibrated out the box and does the auto calibration take care of this problem. Also it's great to have this speed but can I sacrifice speed for quality for times I need it?
Should adjusting one of the side assemblies affect the belt movement on the other?
Further, if I overdid the pushing + tightening" to where the belt wants to track in the other direction, should I undo the same bolt and let it slide out a bit, or should I tighten the opposite bolt? Meaning, after going through the bambu prescribed tightening process, should I only be undoing/tightening one bolt per assembly?
U figure it out?
I think this video is going to fix my problem. Holy sht I finally found something that might actually work. I have been stressing the fk out so bad because of this. I run a small business using 2x p1s printers and lately been only using 1 because I keep getting the exact problem you described. It's just barely noticeable but I'm really a perfectionist with the products I sell so I have wasted a lot of money on failed prints trying to print with that printer. Sometimes I get no orders for a couple days then bam, like 10 orders in a day, and gotta deal with this sht or do it all on 1 printer. If I had hair I'd be pulling it out lol
All done, testing now
@@waynefilkins8394 How did it come out?
@@StrongBarnes90 Great so far. I haven't printed with some of the more problematic filaments, but I think it's actually printing better than the newer p1s now. Also the newer p1s keeps printing this line on the left side of a specific print (it's not the file tho) so I'm going to do this to that one next and see if it fixes that.
@@StrongBarnes90 Nevermind, still having problems. There's something else to it. I don't know what but I will figure this out. Some other variable that I accidentally changed when I messed with this.
@@waynefilkins8394 I actually found this whole video to be hog wash. Talked with an expert buddy of mine that taught me how to resin print back in the day and he advise I not do any of that so I went back and followed bambu procedure for doing the belts like I was doing it for the first time again.
Did it all very slow.
Prints have been coming out immaculate ever since.
Maybe trying what I did will help with you too.
I also dried my filament.
That is the number one problem of Bambu Lab X1C printer. Bambu Lab should address this issue from factory and not expect customers to do all that fixing tedious work, especially at the price and "plug n play" positionning of that printer. From forums and reviewers, lots of people are waiting a design/out of factory fix for this before buying, including me. So Bambu Labs, give us a call when you'll have fixed this issue and you'll get another sale.
Question about adjusting the rear idler pulleys. If the belt is riding high on the idler, does that mean the axle is tilting to the left and so the top bolt needs to be loosened so the idler can be pushed to the right?
Is this true for both the right and left idlera, or is it mirror flipped?
The belt will move to the path of least resistance (or tension). To increase tension, you would pull the pulley away from the middle of the printer. Staring at the back, the right bracket would go right, the left bracket you would go left. If the belt is high, you loosen and push the top of the bracket towards the closest side. If the belt is low, you loosen and push the bottom of the bracket toward the closest side.
What if I do these steps and still have banding on the X axis? Regardless of my custom PETG profile, stock PETG profile, as well as trying out a roll of PLA with the default settings.
Whenever I adjust where the belt sits on the tensioners, after I print for an hour or two it starts to ride on top or bottom again. Does anyone have any advice for this issue? While the belt is in the middle of the tensioner, my ringing is nearly gone - but it returns once the belt rides on the top or bottom.
can this be done on the A1?
Mine was out 0.03mm, unfortunately it didn't solve the wavy lines. :(
Really helpful. Do you leave the shim (tape) in place, or do you remove it at the end?
I've left it for future tensioning
The linked triangles don't work FYI. The short side against the X axis will reach across to the other triangle but not bottom out on the frame. The inverse means that the triangles don't overlap. I think 45° triangles are needed.
Wonder if you can't just 3d print some triangles as well. Or do they have to be bigger than what would fit on the build plate?
Once you square your gantry, doesn't loosening up the bolts again (in order to fix any skewing of the belt on the idler pulley) mess up the squareness again?
My method only loosens up one of the two bolts per side. The ones that are still tightened serve as an axis of sorts to rotate the tensioner housing. So, in theory, it doesn't loosen the belts. It just lets you rotate the tensioner housing a tiny bit until the pulley is perpendicular to the belt. It isn't what would be considered a typical method, but it worked well for me. Hope this makes sense. It's a bit tough to describe the concept.
@@BoneyardLabs actually I thought you explained it well especially with the diagrams.
The drawing triangles you recommended are way too small - ~ 8 x 4.6". 😟 It looks like they need to be about 8" per side.
Can you help me understand why/how the tape shim helps address skew? When the gantry moves along the Y axis, wouldn’t it still be skewed against the X axis?
I think it is in the step where he holds the gantry up against the back with light pressure, after the shim is in place. He then tightens the belts and this corrects the gantry to be square. I did this on both my X1C and P1S and it works.
A bit of a roundabout way of doing it but not a stupid way of doing it, if it works as intended.
You assume that the side rails are parallel, you estabilish how much offset on one side do you need to make the gantry perpendicular to the side rails. So now you have the gantry rotared by the same angle, by which the main body is skewed, which makes them more or less square. Rather than making the body of the printer perfect, you assume that it's imperfect and make it square to however it came out from factory. The result is that prints are rotated on your bed by some sort of miniscule angle, but that doesn't matter at all.
Sorry, but… no before and after?! 🤔🤪
Where is the proof i.e. before and after photos showing that this improved print quality? How much the improvement was?
Not working for me, on x axis still ringing visible
I did this and I thought it was working but there's still something wrong. tbh when I first came across this video, I was trying to fix a different issue and I did this and this is what messed my printer up. Then I stupidly did it to my other printer too and messed it up lol. OP or anyone else, any idea on how to fix it? I don't see how I could have messed it up doing this.
my printer currently has so much ringing i cant even print usable parts. like the entire part is wavy and rough. my belts are riding on the top of the pulleys. thats what i will try next. if it still doesnt work im contacting support. ive had this printer for less than a month.
Did you end up being able to fix it ? I’m in the same boat and it sucks seeing other people with printers without this problem..
@@JEYMS it only happens when using the concentric layer settings. My prints seem fine if I use nonotonic and stuff. Idk man. Support hasn't been super helpful.
@@CaffeinatedFrostbite at least you are lucky to be able to not have them when using non concentric patterns! For me it’s on every print with a flat surface on the X axis 🫠
And yeah, same, support wasn’t helpful for this.
Support yanked me around for a half a year with that. I finally returned it. Bought another x1c elsewhere. Issue fixed
The problem with this video is it does not actually address where the banding comes from, its a futile amount of work, if you cannot get the pullies where the belt teeth ride on, to A stay strait, and B should not be running belt teeth over a smooth pulley, it should be reversed. While making sure the gantry is square, belts are tensioned and riding as much off the flanges are all steps that you would normally do, its all moot if the belt teeth are also riding on the smooth gear.
Also while moving the gantry back in forth, did you check the belts on the motor gears are also riding center? Because there it will absolutely cause banding. It is the whole reason why voron printers run all belts backside to all the smooth idlers.
So all you used from Portzal3D's solution are the printed clips to hold the square tools? Because there are a lot of other parts to build his "belt adjuster" and you didn't use that.
Correct. I printed them off and tried them out (off camera), but after considering their intent, I decided not to use them. I didn't like the idea of using the belts as a way of squaring the gantry because it causes you to apply dissimilar tension to the belts, which could possibly be adding a preload to the bearings on the Y axis.
Using my belt adjuster as detailed on my printable page will actually help avoid over tension of the belts and provide a more precise belt tracking method.
Was reading the Bambu forum for a bit, from what I could see there is no fix. Some things seem to work for some people, but when some others try the same "fix" they see no difference. Not even changing those smooth idlers for toothed ones fix it. Well apparently one guy claimed changing them out for idlers with teeth fixed it, but then another guy did the exakt same thing and posted pictures showing zero difference. Basically this can't be fixed. I guess the only lesson is, don't buy core XY 3d printers.
Why not print the triangles instead of buy them?
That's actually not a bad idea! As long as you can verify that they are perfectly square. I know that there have been instances where printers will be a tiny bit off from perfect. When the X1C was first released there were reports of minor dimensional issues when printing parts intended for close tolerance.
Why no before after photos of the banding?
Valid point. I forgot to add it, unfortunately. A consequence of having too many projects going on at once. The image in the video thumbnail is the one I would have included. If you join the facebook Bambu Labs User Group there are quite a few pics on there to. I'll update this comment with a link to a before and after later this week.
@@BoneyardLabsand those of us who don't do Facebook?
@@NickBR57sucks to suck I guess? Maybe he should send a mail to your house with a picture....
@@gohertz188 😁
@@gohertz188man, you must be fun at parties.
i got the feeling my housing is out of shape box got hit when it got shipped but it printed ok for half year lol but looking back i know i had z banding lol ... i will def test this..
Squaring the printer with some layers of tape, very funny 🤣
It is funny until you see that some people have an issue with the head having some play on the carbon rods and Bambu Lab tells them to put tape there too to use as a shim lol. It works I guess
I hate all these tinkering that's why my 3D prints are 100% outsourced
720p ? cmon... reupload this in a non fuzzy low bitrate sir? i found that if you loosen the bolt that corresponds to the side that the belt is touching for the longest amount of total travel that the pulley rightens its self up. repeat twice and the belts on both sides do not hit my pulleys :) thanks for the technical bit so my autism could understand what to adjust and when.
Sorry but this just seems a bit like snake oil. You have provided no evidence or test results for your "fixes" I kinda feel like this is just randomly trying stuff. I get maybe squaring the axis could help, but the way you are squaring it is absolutely not an accurate way of doing it and it could actually lead to it being less square.
Did you listen to his final comments about offering a better way of doing things. Do you have a better way that the average 3D printing hobbyist can apply while using common, every day tools, and not resorting to precision instrumentation for better accuracy? I’d sure like to hear it.
Work for me
Worked for me
Great video! For that $$$$ that should all be setup....not impressed with that printer or the comapany!
NOT TO BUY It would be good that you comment that there is no technical service and that with a new printer I am unable to print with an open incident for 6 days and no one gets in touch and there is no other way to get in touch, do not answer in networks, in mails, in the support service .... when the service of other printers like Creality respond instantly. Very disappointed, I do not recommend at all to buy until they are ready.