I bought my CR-10S Pro based on this video. If this video didn't exist, I would be sending it back. Actually, I bought an open box unit so someone else probably had a terrible experience. I tried printing with it out of the box and it was terrible. Tuned up, it's great. Thank you for the great work!
Decided not to buy one because of your last video pretty much pointing out why they weren't worth it... but now you suggesting its worth fighting for after I spent the money on another printer.. you are something else.
You have saved my Cr-10s pro from going back. The inductive sensor made the greatest difference, but also loved your video on the Z axis leveling. The Tiny-machine firmware is also a huge step up. I would assume the wam-bam bed will work well with the inductive sensor. Thanks again. subscribed and liked I miss the glory days of Lotus with Senna
I was given a faulty CR-10S, not sure what's wrong with it yet so I started looking for common faults on them and found this video. Can't wait to get it fixed and get into this subject, been looking forward to getting a printer for a long time.
For fan noise. Use some hardy wire cutters and clip out the middle ring of the fan guard on the side case fan and the hot end fan. That will greatly reduce fan noise as the airflow will be better. Replace the fan in the PSU case, it's the worst offender. Some people have claimed that their printer is silent, so I wonder if Creality is starting to replace these noisy fans with better ones??
Finally printing the fan adapter for my CR-10. The board fan started a whinning sound on start. After 5-6 restarts the fan would run normally. *Thanks again for this video.*
Love the channel. No matter what 3D print advice I look up, I always come across your videos. As far as the filament guide, I made one myself and I feel fairly confident in saying it's one of the best options available. Compared to most I tried, it's less friction, less chance to jump off the guide from retractions, no top frame part required, easier to print (no supports), tool-less, and only requires a spare rail roller which most of us already have. Interested to get some feedback. Let me know if you wanna test it!
I agree with all the problems you mentioned. I bought that printer and returned it to Amazon after a few days. I could not accept having so little build quality with such a high price. What I did instead ? I bought the Prusa i3 MK3S which cost be just a few dollars more. The build quality of a Prusa is so good that you just can't compare with any of the Creality. The only one thing that the CR10-S Pro has is the print size but most of the people rarely print huge models.
Just to compare prices in the EU: €492 for the CR10 S Pro (on AliE), €769 for the Prusa i3 MK3S (kit, so at least 12-16 hrs of 'fun'), that's not a small difference (€277), and note that the Prusa still has many plastic parts and indeed a much smaller build volume (yes, size does matter sometimes :-))
@@GELHammer No.Your calculation is wrong. You'll probably have to pay the duties and taxes for the CR-10S Pro so you can add 20% more. And also you need to add everything that makes a Prusa a prusa and then you'll finish that your CR-10S "not so Pro" will endup more expensive.
Gert Luyten Oh and I forgot to mention all the time and "fun" you will have upgrading your creality unmounting the parts, mounting the new parts, recalibrating, reflashing the firmware.., to try to reach the quality of a prusa.
No duties, AliE's Creality store ships from within Germany. Even when shipping from China there are no customs duties to the EU. So the price difference remains, and my upgrades are limited to the T8 backstop screws (€5) and 1 PSU fan (€8).
@@GELHammer Then you won't get ANY of these Prusa awesome features : Bondtech gears, Extra silent Noctua fan, extra silent Trinamic drivers, 4 thermistors, fans sensor, Shifted layers, Removable magnetic, Max hotend 300°C, Heatbed temp. 120°C, Speed 200+ mm/s, Better cooling from both sides of the object , Optional WIFI with Octoprint interface, Bondtech extruder drive, IR filament sensor, Automatic loading of filament when filament is inserted, ... and yes, there are more...
I've been struggling with my CR-10S Pro for 2 months. This video was really excellent, great succinct list of tips. I'll be printing out the fan duct and getting a new build plate based on this. Thanks!
Hi Donald, how have you found it now? I am considering this or the Prusa MK3S. After viewing this video it seems that there are a lot of extra costs to get this "cheap" printer running reliably. Wonder if I should avoid the headache and get a Prusa.
8:46 Never work on your printer while plugged into the mains and/or switched on. True there is only 24V running through so the shock hazard is low, but, you fling one screw on to that mainboard or drop it near other electronics and you run the risk of frying your system. The biggest issue I have found with this printer is the Gantry. On shipment mine came miss-aligned. There are 4 screws (2 on each rail of the gantry) where the red aluminum plates are attached. If those plates are not aligned perfectly to the rail, one side of your gantry will be higher/lower than the other. Loosen just one screw on each side (you may have to loosen the second screw a bit) and check the edge of the aluminum plate with the extruded rail edge. Align these on both sides perfectly, then re-tighten the screws. Check that the gantry is level on both sides by measuring from the print base to the bottom of the gantry. Then make sure to re-run bed leveling. This quieted my printer quite a bit as well as made a considerable difference in the quality of the print.
Great info as always Michael. Most of these will be relevant to a lot of printers, so a lot of people will benefit. Sadly my Borg still doesn't have it's Wham Bam build surface yet, but hopefully soon.
Amazing video. The fan duct really saved me, mine failed in the same way and I had just basically superglued it to the screw. I personally had to use slightly longer m2 screws, to get it to nicely screw into the fan.
Hey man thanks for the link remember just use 12 volt fans and voltage converters two exceptions Parts Cooling can't use a 12-volt for that or you lose speed control add the power supply fan it's already 12 volts so you just need to directly replace it with a 40-20 12-volt ultra-quiet fan the power supply fan is the largest culprit in my printer for noise once you replace all of them and run the parts cooler at 60 to 80% you could sleep in the same room as this machine :-)
This was very helpful. Following the Tinymachines instructions had my printer trying to drive the probe through the bed. Using the wrench it's working great now.
"It’s combination of size and print quality is hard to beat." Thats why I bought one this afternoon. Quality is reported as Excellent and needed 300x300
Hi, I love your videos, and this one provides provides some food for thought. I have had my CR-10S PRO for about 5-weeks now and unfortunately, I never got the test dog dog to print well from the start and had to do a deep dive into the printer problems. That even includes reading C++ for Marlin ;) Initially, I discovered that the build plate was warped with a hump that went right to left just off center from the front and it was off by 0.78mm from the front to the warp high point. I removed the Creality build sticker, then whacked the build plate over my thigh a few times to reduce the warp, and then mounted it upside down to allow the support plate and clips to remove the rest of the warp. This worked well and I am within a couple of 1/100ths of a mm across the plate. This, however, required that I also put on a new BuildTak sticker for which you have to buy toe 400mmx400mm sticker and trim it down since BuildTak does not have a 310mmx310mm sticker. I was then able to print the test dog in PLA - Once. I ran the bed at 60c and the hotend at 210c. It seemed as though I had to continually adjust the hotend z level at the outset of a print to get the filament to flow correctly and to get it to stick (even on the buildtak) - yes Auto Bed Leveling was ON. I had the problem where, if I use a 1st layer brim that is initially good in its thickness and initial stick-down, it lifted on the outside edges late in the print of the brim (I use a 2mm wide brim) and suddenly the print nozzle is hitting it on the way to the printed object - lots of spaghetti when that happens - I had to constantly watch it and kill the print (have done that many times). I did flash to the Tiny Machine firmware, I did replace the capacitive sensor with an inductive sensor. My auto calibrate measurements are all at 0.02mm or less at all 16 pts. I use Cura (3.6 and now 4.0) with the suggested CR-10S PRO configuration from Tiny Machines. My hot end or extruder or both seem to have problems so I upgraded them to a Micro Swiss hot end. I have tried several slicers including: Cura, SLIC3R, even the Beta Creality Slicer (DO NOT USE - it seems to not use the Auto Level info at all - IT BURIED the print nozzle tip into my bed, near the center so I had to replace the nozzle. On reading through the Marlin Configuration dot h file I noticed that it allows the nozzle to drop upto 2mm below the sensor-on point so that explains that). I started to get good prints and then switched to PETG. more problems with 1st layer sticking and blobbing. I found that the lead screw nuts on the z-axis lead screws that drive the X-Axis gantry beam in the z-axis on the right and left side of the frames were loose - very loose (4-screws, 1 to 3 turns each), this would lead to z-axis hysteresis during up and down motion and would explain why on certain moves across layers the nozzle would score the previous layer; I tightened those up. Then I checked the squareness of the X-Axis beam relative to the side Z-Axis beams and found them to be out of square on both sides. Loosening one of the two side roller on each side and adjusting the inside roller tension I was able to square the beam up. The extruder spur gear on the stepper motor shaft loosened up and dropped down on the motor shaft - this led to slipping of the filament being extruded and a clicking noise. When I re-adjusted that spur gear, I noticed that I could not get it to align with the non-stepper spur gear. On examination, the bottom teeth of that spur gear had ground a small ring into the aluminium extruder base plate. I used an old 0.1mm shim to fashion a washer to place under the spur gear to both raise the gear teeth up from the aluminium base so it would align with the stepper mounted gear as well as give the gear a rotating surface to ride on so I would not continue to damage the aluminium base plate. So, to sum up: Warped Bed - Fixed; required a new BuildTak sticker Awful Leveling Sensor - Fixed; I went to an Inductive Sensor and adjusted it appropriately and use the Tiny Machines leveling method. Firmware - Fixed; flashed to the current Tiny Machines firmware Slicer Settings/Extruder/Hot End (or combination thereof) - Fixed; replaced the hot end with a micro swill all metal hotend; and used the Prussa Edition of SLIC3R PETG first layer problems and scoring of layers on nozzle travel - Fixed: - Tightened the lead screw nut assemblies and squared up the X-Axis beam to the Z-Axis Gantries. - Added G28 (home) and G29 commands to the GCODE after the bed and nozzle are heated. Also, I routinely check bed level with Octoprint and use the M500 command to save my bed leveling settings. Changed the fan shroud to a PETG ring shroud - it drooped and broke off - Not Fixed, will use the fan shroud and new 24Vdc fan per your video Finally, I have the Wham Bam 310mmx310mm build plate on order and am waiting for it. I tore the BuildTak up a bit trying to remove a PETG component and have been working around that spot ;) Now, I am a new guy to all this and I started with a Cetus3D printer that always just works. However, I will persevere since I think that I will be able to learn on this machine including getting it to run right - eventually (and I am stubborn and I refuse to let the machine win :). I really like the larger build area; the Cetus is sooo small. I hope you found this helpfull and I could always use help and suggestions
If you find that the nozzle-to-bed distance mysteriously changes a little, take a look at the Y rollers. I found that I had to loosen all eight of them, then very incrementally snug them up to the V channel (not just the eccentric ones). In the process I noticed that the height of the rollers' pillars was not uniform, with the eccentric ones a slightly different height than the non-eccentric ones. In operation, that can allow the bed to move up or down, depending on which roller of each opposing pair is able to seat deepest into its V groove.
Thanks for sharing. You've had quite an ordeal, I'm sorry to hear. The good news is like you've stated, you now have a much better understanding of 3D printers. Hopefully others read this and learn from your experiences.
Thanks to your video (and another one) on changing out the fans, I am in the middle of replacing all fans on my CR-10S Pro, starting with two each 12V Noctua Fans wired in series so there is 24V across both of them. This required cutting a hole for the second fan and drilling 2 or 4 holes to mount the second fan next to the first. Both fans pointing towards the exhaust. I also created a double fan bracket that mounts to the 2 screw mounts near the main board. One 50mm fan points at the main board and the other points at the DC Relay. Thankfully on my new printer, the relay was mounted to a large aluminum heatsink, so I won't bother moving the heatsink over to the aluminum rail next to it. Again, by using two each 12V fans, I wired them in series and now apply 24v across both fans...each fan getting 12V. Because the fans "match" (same model / same impedance) then the voltage divides evenly across them. If you were using 2 different fans, one would likely get more than 12V and the other would get less than 12V. Because I am replacing 1 fan with 2 wired in series there is the risk that if one fan dies, the other fan will stop working too, however that is true with of the 1 fan that I am replacing: If I had left that 1 fan in place and it died there would be no fans cooling in that spot. So I'm not real worried about it. I also replaced the power supply fan and I have a quieter blower on hand for the part cooling fan. I am waiting for a few other little parts to arrive this week to complete the upgrade of this printer. I'll be installing the new TinyMachines screen and mainboard firmware tonight, hopefully. Videos like yours contribute greatly to making these upgrades much easier. Thank you for sharing.
I have also thought about getting one of those sd card extension cables to plug into the display programming port and bring it to outside somewhere. Then you wouldn't need to open it up every time to do a firmware update. Some people put these in the external slot to to protect it as well.
Hey Michael, I've been watching your videos and finally decided to take the plunge today on my 1st 3d printer (I was waiting for Prime day). I wasn't sure about the CR-10S Pro based on ratings on Amazon and your initial review. I was leaning towards the Alfawise U20 Pro, but after seeing this vid and getting the discount (end price of $519.20) it came down to print quality. I also noticed you were using it for your LowRider 2 project; which means (I assume) that it's become one of your daily workhorses. Just wanted to say thanks and that I just hit "subscribe".
Great Video!! I was especially enlightened about using the wrench for setting the distance on the z axis sensor. I only wish I saw this last week. I just bought a BLtouch to battle the inconsistent Z homing, to find I was shipped Version 3.0 BLtouch.....and it doesn't work on the CR10s Pro. I installed it yesterday. The print nozzle slams into the bed. It will probably be better to re-install the original probe and wait for someone to work out the "bugs" in the newest version of BLtouch sensor. Love your videos, keep up the good work!!!!!!!!
version 3.0 works.. use that tutorial czcams.com/video/PLKEhdznVMY/video.html and for version 3.0 use the jumper on the board! and about the firmware.. tinymachines b7 you don't have to change anything with marlin.. it work's fine as it is. by the way.. before the nozzle crashes into the bed.. i would test it with your finger.. if it doesn't stop.. then use the power button on your printer to stop it.. before something is damaged..
Hey, just wanted to share the fix i've been using for the poor filament path to reduce the dust. As far as i could tell this was caused not so much by the path but by tension put on the filament at the runout sensor causing it to grind against the inlet, it was happening once i decided to try a larger spool of petg which wasnt spinning on the spool holder very smoothly. I fixed this just by putting some automotive bearing grease on the spool holder... it just lets it spin easier and i have very little dust...
I added the z axis sync. Not sure if the backlash nut works better but the belt sync is great. Some other issues are the warped heated bed (which mesh leveling should theoretically fix) and poor manufacturing on various components. Example: holes filiment goes through had such horrible burrs it cut the filiment through every hole (barely fit ) creating the dust you pictured. Took some tedious deburring and fixed it. Took lot of work and it prints great now but the time investment could have bought a better brand.
Thanks for the fixes to think about. I haven't ordered one but have been thinking of doing so. Having these fixes in mind will help me judge if its worth the investment.
Great video mate! Awesome information as usual. I can also use this tips on my diy printer too, so it is more general in my opinion :) Keep up the good work!
great video, the only thing i want to say about filament access i have tested with several filaments and i can tell that poor quality filaments leaves dust, but filament from colorfabb does not leave any dust my longest print was 23,5 hour and was not even one dust came, compare with cheap pla from creality . But what is only my opinion. your videos are super good!
might want to relocate the mosfet to the aluminum frame, it's location currently doesn't dissipate the heat well as it's mounted on standoffs in the case.
Are you talking about the solid state relay for the heated bed? Generally the bed MOSFET has the most current through it but on this printer there is a SSR instead.
@@TeachingTech yes, it get stupid hot from what I've seen-the back should be the heatsink portion, but it's elevated so not getting adequate heat spread
Thanks for the great video, I’ve got one being delivered today along with a magnetic flexible plate(a different brand). and will do all these things, got the 3D printed upgrades printing on my mini v2 printer atm, So excited! I love fixing things up.
You need to do a new video on this on the two major issues that actually affect basic printing. Unlevel gantry and left side stepper motor grinding with the Z-Rod likely do to the unlevel gantry. I have done every fix I've seen on CZcams backlash nuts bearings at the top disassemble make sure everything's square level copacetic you name it I'll get 10 prints that are nice and then out of nowhere grinding and then the zig and the gantry is off by like anywhere from 2:00 to 12 mm driving me freaking nuts ready to shoot this thing with my 12 gauge 3 years of this insanity
Was reading to see if someone mentioned this. Yes, at idle the machine is not bad but when the fan in the power supply kicks in db's increase considerably. So the biggest offender is the power supply fan, not the motherboard fan.
Great stuff, as always. To me, one of the best enhancements in the TM3D firmware upgrade is the Z offset adjustment on the "Adjustment" screen. It makes first layer adjustments so much easier.
Great review, but... WTF should the consumer have to go to the trouble of installing a range of fixes, including an essential safety feature, on a brand new printer? What have Creality said in relation to these issues? Are all new pros still shipped with these various issues?
Great video, but you miss the 8th and most crusial problem. The wires to the heated bed is bound to break leadig to thermal runaway or even fire due to shortcut
This was INCREDIBLY helpful! It looks like there's a way to calibrate the esteps with the new firmware, but I can't figure out how it works. Is there a tutorial somewhere?
For getting rid of the irritating DTMF keytone- Change 3 sure, 4 return and 5 key waw files in the screen files for the display with waw files with a click sound
This, is an awesome video. I am a new subscriber as of about two weeks ago and thoroughly enjoy the objective straightforwardness of all your subject matter. Thank you. Question, I am not a wham bam user (yet). Does a person need to use a glue stick for adhesion to the wham bam upgrade?
two days and hours.. can't get a first layer to stick.... done all the normal stuffs to fix it... but damn... Going to try the tinymachines soon. Getting a bit frustrated.
One more issue that came up and needs fixing fast: The machines are catching fire because of a poor strain relief design holding bed heating wires. There are some fixes out there but they aren't 100% yet.
Hello Michael. First of all I want to say your reviews are great. Very detailed and well explained. About this CR-10S Pro. I kept thinking. This is a $650 plus taxes and fees printer, plus your recommended upgrades which they all look like must haves, this printer comes out over $750. With that same money you can get the latest Prusa MK3S which is a better printer only trailing this one in print volume. What are your thoughts on this? Do you have a review on the Anycubic Chiron?
Haven't used the Chiron but I still love my mk3. It has stood up very well against all of the printers I've reviewed since. Build volume as you say is the downside compared to the cr-10
Thanks for your very good videos, Michael. Could You please or someone else measure the dimensions of the mainboard, including the positions of the screw-holes?
I believe that the machine has too many fans and they are fastened to a large sounding board ( the large thin sheet metal enclosure) that amplifies the sound of the fans. I have solved similar problems with fan noise by using elastic isolation mounts.
@@MrCcfly Mostly first layer issues both because of Pinda sensor and bed adhesion. There was one time which pinda sensor malfunctioned and smashed the hotend really hard to the bed. Also Slic3r prusa edition is terrible compared to Ultimaker cura I think about buying a wham bam bed for the mk3s.
@@djdontgetcooked can i ask you one more i love petg and my printed dont like it so much so i look for another one ,,by prusa videos and some forum posts petg is great with mk3s but i dont know .. did u print anything in petg and how it like ?
I've read that you have to be careful with that ABL probe : it's apparently pretty sensible to heating, so if you put it closer to the bed, it will be even worse :( I ordered a few days ago an inductive sensor (
Love your video!!! my printerhot end burned also, but creality dont answer. There are so many users out and they cant change the hardware and frustrated with this printer. creality dont answer to emails to help. there is to much money you have to add to get maybe a good printer. 45 dollar for the case fans to change them all, 20 dollars for the hotend fans, 100 dollar for the printbed, ... for the half price you can build your own printer with the same results and have a enclosure. i wished i never had bought this printer.
My 1st roll of PLA was $40 Tronxy black, and it was hard to get prints off my std End3 bed. But when that ran out I got generic $20 PLA, and it now has trouble sticking to the bed. Now I wonder how different different brands of PLA are, because Maker's Muse had trouble with stringing with different bands of filament.
I am going back and forth between the CR-10s and the CR-10s pro. It looks like the pro has a lot of bugs. In your opinion which one do you think is better?
re: Poor filament path = dust. While it's always fun to print a fix, I'm wondering if I couldn't just take a countersink and gently round out the inlet. Remove the sharp edge = no scraping the filament = no dust. Or even take a round needle file and round out just the sharp top edge where the filament passes. Or, what the heck, my two hour print hasn't produced any dust; maybe Creality has already fixed this?
Hey @Teaching Tech, this video is 9 months old has there been any upgrades to the original software or do you still recommend flashing tinymachines software onto it?
You listed to purchase the 310x310 in your description for wham bam... the Cr-10 PRO is 310x320 please fix so that other people don't buy the wrong model based on your recommendation.
Great Video as always, thank you. I see Creality has a new firmware on the site since your firmware instruction video. Does that new version still have no thermal runaway? Also, any idea where to find the release notes of the Creality firmware?
Can you please post a single video with just the ABL calibration procedure. I think even with the Tiny 3D video there is confusion on how to adjust the sensitivity of the ABL sensor vs. the actual height adjustment of the ABL sensor itself. I've had a hard time with this.
Hi loved your latest video on cr-10s pro was wondering if you could provide us a in depth video on probing and bed-leveling and auto as Iwatched several videos but they seem to provide conflicting procedures which are not clear contradictory and ee hope you could clear this up for us.
I wonder if you could leave the bottom plate off then not use the rear frame fan at all. your new fan should keep the stepper drives nice and cool and the PSU will run cooler as it is not boxed in. Or maybe you have tried this and its not a good idea. Thank you for the great video of updates.
Hello!. The flexible build system you suggested is this “315 X 310 Kit With Pre-Installed PEX Build Surface - Creality K1 Max, Ender 3 S1 Plus, CR10 Smart Pro”.. 110 usd?
Tnx for your review helps a lot . I have one question I’m between 2 printers now from many of your reviews 😀. 1. CR10S pro V2( with all your upgrades). 2 .ENDER 6 Which would you prefer ??
Which one did you end up going for? I am getting a CR10S pro V2 and planning to doing some of these updates (I'm not sure if the firmware or cooling fan duct replacement is still needed though with the new version)
1:06 Thermal Runaway Protection
1:47 Melted Fan Duct
2:52 Jammed Filament run-out sensor
3:38 Poor Filament Path = Dust
4:42 Inconsistent ABL Probe = First Layer Woes
5:52 Hard to Remove Prints
8:12 Noisy Fans
It's only 10 mins but thanks anyway :-)
@@GELHammer I'm a serial rewatch while working person, it was for my own purposes and I don't believe in not sharing when it costs you nothing :)
+10 Internet points
thanks
Is this for the v2
I bought my CR-10S Pro based on this video. If this video didn't exist, I would be sending it back. Actually, I bought an open box unit so someone else probably had a terrible experience. I tried printing with it out of the box and it was terrible. Tuned up, it's great. Thank you for the great work!
HUGE thumbs up for the Senna hoodie!
Was about say the same thing.
Your videos are extremely helpful as I set up my CR-10S Pro. The amount of work you contribute to the 3D print community is a blessing. Thanks
Decided not to buy one because of your last video pretty much pointing out why they weren't worth it... but now you suggesting its worth fighting for after I spent the money on another printer.. you are something else.
Sorry..
Hope you are happy with your other printer.
You have saved my Cr-10s pro from going back. The inductive sensor made the greatest difference, but also loved your video on the Z axis leveling. The Tiny-machine firmware is also a huge step up.
I would assume the wam-bam bed will work well with the inductive sensor.
Thanks again. subscribed and liked I miss the glory days of Lotus with Senna
Glad to have helped. Wham Bam bed works with no problems with the sensor. Senna's legend fortunately has not diminished over the years.
I was given a faulty CR-10S, not sure what's wrong with it yet so I started looking for common faults on them and found this video. Can't wait to get it fixed and get into this subject, been looking forward to getting a printer for a long time.
For fan noise. Use some hardy wire cutters and clip out the middle ring of the fan guard on the side case fan and the hot end fan. That will greatly reduce fan noise as the airflow will be better. Replace the fan in the PSU case, it's the worst offender.
Some people have claimed that their printer is silent, so I wonder if Creality is starting to replace these noisy fans with better ones??
Thanks for the tip. It would be great if they did. Seems silly to have quiet stepper drivers paired with noisy fans.
Thank you for the important improvements to the CR 10S pro. It is a great printer with high quality print.
Finally printing the fan adapter for my CR-10. The board fan started a whinning sound on start. After 5-6 restarts the fan would run normally.
*Thanks again for this video.*
Love the channel. No matter what 3D print advice I look up, I always come across your videos. As far as the filament guide, I made one myself and I feel fairly confident in saying it's one of the best options available. Compared to most I tried, it's less friction, less chance to jump off the guide from retractions, no top frame part required, easier to print (no supports), tool-less, and only requires a spare rail roller which most of us already have. Interested to get some feedback. Let me know if you wanna test it!
I agree with all the problems you mentioned. I bought that printer and returned it to Amazon after a few days. I could not accept having so little build quality with such a high price. What I did instead ? I bought the Prusa i3 MK3S which cost be just a few dollars more. The build quality of a Prusa is so good that you just can't compare with any of the Creality. The only one thing that the CR10-S Pro has is the print size but most of the people rarely print huge models.
Just to compare prices in the EU: €492 for the CR10 S Pro (on AliE), €769 for the Prusa i3 MK3S (kit, so at least 12-16 hrs of 'fun'), that's not a small difference (€277), and note that the Prusa still has many plastic parts and indeed a much smaller build volume (yes, size does matter sometimes :-))
@@GELHammer No.Your calculation is wrong. You'll probably have to pay the duties and taxes for the CR-10S Pro so you can add 20% more. And also you need to add everything that makes a Prusa a prusa and then you'll finish that your CR-10S "not so Pro" will endup more expensive.
Gert Luyten Oh and I forgot to mention all the time and "fun" you will have upgrading your creality unmounting the parts, mounting the new parts, recalibrating, reflashing the firmware.., to try to reach the quality of a prusa.
No duties, AliE's Creality store ships from within Germany. Even when shipping from China there are no customs duties to the EU. So the price difference remains, and my upgrades are limited to the T8 backstop screws (€5) and 1 PSU fan (€8).
@@GELHammer Then you won't get ANY of these Prusa awesome features : Bondtech gears, Extra silent Noctua fan,
extra silent Trinamic drivers, 4 thermistors, fans sensor, Shifted layers, Removable magnetic, Max hotend 300°C, Heatbed temp.
120°C, Speed
200+ mm/s, Better cooling from both sides of the object
, Optional WIFI with Octoprint interface, Bondtech extruder drive, IR filament sensor, Automatic loading of filament when filament is inserted, ... and yes, there are more...
I've been struggling with my CR-10S Pro for 2 months. This video was really excellent, great succinct list of tips. I'll be printing out the fan duct and getting a new build plate based on this. Thanks!
Hi Donald, how have you found it now? I am considering this or the Prusa MK3S. After viewing this video it seems that there are a lot of extra costs to get this "cheap" printer running reliably. Wonder if I should avoid the headache and get a Prusa.
8:46 Never work on your printer while plugged into the mains and/or switched on. True there is only 24V running through so the shock hazard is low, but, you fling one screw on to that mainboard or drop it near other electronics and you run the risk of frying your system. The biggest issue I have found with this printer is the Gantry. On shipment mine came miss-aligned. There are 4 screws (2 on each rail of the gantry) where the red aluminum plates are attached. If those plates are not aligned perfectly to the rail, one side of your gantry will be higher/lower than the other. Loosen just one screw on each side (you may have to loosen the second screw a bit) and check the edge of the aluminum plate with the extruded rail edge. Align these on both sides perfectly, then re-tighten the screws. Check that the gantry is level on both sides by measuring from the print base to the bottom of the gantry. Then make sure to re-run bed leveling. This quieted my printer quite a bit as well as made a considerable difference in the quality of the print.
Great info as always Michael. Most of these will be relevant to a lot of printers, so a lot of people will benefit. Sadly my Borg still doesn't have it's Wham Bam build surface yet, but hopefully soon.
Amazing video. The fan duct really saved me, mine failed in the same way and I had just basically superglued it to the screw.
I personally had to use slightly longer m2 screws, to get it to nicely screw into the fan.
Appreciate all you do for us newbies I thank you.
Hey man thanks for the link remember just use 12 volt fans and voltage converters two exceptions Parts Cooling can't use a 12-volt for that or you lose speed control add the power supply fan it's already 12 volts so you just need to directly replace it with a 40-20 12-volt ultra-quiet fan the power supply fan is the largest culprit in my printer for noise once you replace all of them and run the parts cooler at 60 to 80% you could sleep in the same room as this machine :-)
This was very helpful. Following the Tinymachines instructions had my printer trying to drive the probe through the bed. Using the wrench it's working great now.
"It’s combination of size and print quality is hard to beat." Thats why I bought one this afternoon. Quality is reported as Excellent and needed 300x300
thanks for the vid, was looking for a filament guide and the rest is a bonus on what I can improve on my printer! Cheers mate
Hi, I love your videos, and this one provides provides some food for thought. I have had my CR-10S PRO for about 5-weeks now and unfortunately, I never got the test dog dog to print well from the start and had to do a deep dive into the printer problems. That even includes reading C++ for Marlin ;)
Initially, I discovered that the build plate was warped with a hump that went right to left just off center from the front and it was off by 0.78mm from the front to the warp high point. I removed the Creality build sticker, then whacked the build plate over my thigh a few times to reduce the warp, and then mounted it upside down to allow the support plate and clips to remove the rest of the warp. This worked well and I am within a couple of 1/100ths of a mm across the plate. This, however, required that I also put on a new BuildTak sticker for which you have to buy toe 400mmx400mm sticker and trim it down since BuildTak does not have a 310mmx310mm sticker. I was then able to print the test dog in PLA - Once. I ran the bed at 60c and the hotend at 210c. It seemed as though I had to continually adjust the hotend z level at the outset of a print to get the filament to flow correctly and to get it to stick (even on the buildtak) - yes Auto Bed Leveling was ON. I had the problem where, if I use a 1st layer brim that is initially good in its thickness and initial stick-down, it lifted on the outside edges late in the print of the brim (I use a 2mm wide brim) and suddenly the print nozzle is hitting it on the way to the printed object - lots of spaghetti when that happens - I had to constantly watch it and kill the print (have done that many times). I did flash to the Tiny Machine firmware, I did replace the capacitive sensor with an inductive sensor. My auto calibrate measurements are all at 0.02mm or less at all 16 pts. I use Cura (3.6 and now 4.0) with the suggested CR-10S PRO configuration from Tiny Machines. My hot end or extruder or both seem to have problems so I upgraded them to a Micro Swiss hot end. I have tried several slicers including: Cura, SLIC3R, even the Beta Creality Slicer (DO NOT USE - it seems to not use the Auto Level info at all - IT BURIED the print nozzle tip into my bed, near the center so I had to replace the nozzle. On reading through the Marlin Configuration dot h file I noticed that it allows the nozzle to drop upto 2mm below the sensor-on point so that explains that).
I started to get good prints and then switched to PETG. more problems with 1st layer sticking and blobbing. I found that the lead screw nuts on the z-axis lead screws that drive the X-Axis gantry beam in the z-axis on the right and left side of the frames were loose - very loose (4-screws, 1 to 3 turns each), this would lead to z-axis hysteresis during up and down motion and would explain why on certain moves across layers the nozzle would score the previous layer; I tightened those up.
Then I checked the squareness of the X-Axis beam relative to the side Z-Axis beams and found them to be out of square on both sides. Loosening one of the two side roller on each side and adjusting the inside roller tension I was able to square the beam up.
The extruder spur gear on the stepper motor shaft loosened up and dropped down on the motor shaft - this led to slipping of the filament being extruded and a clicking noise. When I re-adjusted that spur gear, I noticed that I could not get it to align with the non-stepper spur gear. On examination, the bottom teeth of that spur gear had ground a small ring into the aluminium extruder base plate. I used an old 0.1mm shim to fashion a washer to place under the spur gear to both raise the gear teeth up from the aluminium base so it would align with the stepper mounted gear as well as give the gear a rotating surface to ride on so I would not continue to damage the aluminium base plate.
So, to sum up:
Warped Bed - Fixed; required a new BuildTak sticker
Awful Leveling Sensor - Fixed; I went to an Inductive Sensor and adjusted it appropriately and use the Tiny Machines leveling method.
Firmware - Fixed; flashed to the current Tiny Machines firmware
Slicer Settings/Extruder/Hot End (or combination thereof) - Fixed; replaced the hot end with a micro swill all metal hotend; and used the Prussa Edition of SLIC3R
PETG first layer problems and scoring of layers on nozzle travel - Fixed:
- Tightened the lead screw nut assemblies and squared up the X-Axis beam to the Z-Axis Gantries.
- Added G28 (home) and G29 commands to the GCODE after the bed and nozzle are heated. Also, I routinely check bed level with Octoprint and use the M500 command to save my bed leveling settings.
Changed the fan shroud to a PETG ring shroud - it drooped and broke off - Not Fixed, will use the fan shroud and new 24Vdc fan per your video
Finally, I have the Wham Bam 310mmx310mm build plate on order and am waiting for it. I tore the BuildTak up a bit trying to remove a PETG component and have been working around that spot ;)
Now, I am a new guy to all this and I started with a Cetus3D printer that always just works. However, I will persevere since I think that I will be able to learn on this machine including getting it to run right - eventually (and I am stubborn and I refuse to let the machine win :).
I really like the larger build area; the Cetus is sooo small.
I hope you found this helpfull and I could always use help and suggestions
If you find that the nozzle-to-bed distance mysteriously changes a little, take a look at the Y rollers. I found that I had to loosen all eight of them, then very incrementally snug them up to the V channel (not just the eccentric ones). In the process I noticed that the height of the rollers' pillars was not uniform, with the eccentric ones a slightly different height than the non-eccentric ones. In operation, that can allow the bed to move up or down, depending on which roller of each opposing pair is able to seat deepest into its V groove.
Thanks for sharing. You've had quite an ordeal, I'm sorry to hear. The good news is like you've stated, you now have a much better understanding of 3D printers. Hopefully others read this and learn from your experiences.
Thanks to your video (and another one) on changing out the fans, I am in the middle of replacing all fans on my CR-10S Pro, starting with two each 12V Noctua Fans wired in series so there is 24V across both of them. This required cutting a hole for the second fan and drilling 2 or 4 holes to mount the second fan next to the first. Both fans pointing towards the exhaust. I also created a double fan bracket that mounts to the 2 screw mounts near the main board. One 50mm fan points at the main board and the other points at the DC Relay. Thankfully on my new printer, the relay was mounted to a large aluminum heatsink, so I won't bother moving the heatsink over to the aluminum rail next to it. Again, by using two each 12V fans, I wired them in series and now apply 24v across both fans...each fan getting 12V. Because the fans "match" (same model / same impedance) then the voltage divides evenly across them. If you were using 2 different fans, one would likely get more than 12V and the other would get less than 12V. Because I am replacing 1 fan with 2 wired in series there is the risk that if one fan dies, the other fan will stop working too, however that is true with of the 1 fan that I am replacing: If I had left that 1 fan in place and it died there would be no fans cooling in that spot. So I'm not real worried about it. I also replaced the power supply fan and I have a quieter blower on hand for the part cooling fan. I am waiting for a few other little parts to arrive this week to complete the upgrade of this printer. I'll be installing the new TinyMachines screen and mainboard firmware tonight, hopefully.
Videos like yours contribute greatly to making these upgrades much easier. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for both videos! (the review one). I was ready to write off the printer but this video gave me hope for it again as I really wanted to get it.
Good modification suggestions Michael - thanks!
Nice list of upgrades, only other thing to add is "T8 anti backlash spring loaded nuts" for the z axis leadsrews.
Would you be willing to do a video for the new CR10S PRO V2 firmware upgrades from Tinymachines 3d ?
Yes please, I’m having to relevel the bed prior to every print as the z height is wrong at the beginning of every print
Super Good video mate! I'll buy one now and modify it before use. Well Done and Thank YOU.
Hey, great Vid. You did forget to say, that those fans are 24V DC.
Awesome set of upgrades that could be used for other printers as well!
I have also thought about getting one of those sd card extension cables to plug into the display programming port and bring it to outside somewhere. Then you wouldn't need to open it up every time to do a firmware update. Some people put these in the external slot to to protect it as well.
I modded one of those sd extenders to be accessible through one of the air slots. works awesome and is barely noticeable!
Hey Michael, I've been watching your videos and finally decided to take the plunge today on my 1st 3d printer (I was waiting for Prime day). I wasn't sure about the CR-10S Pro based on ratings on Amazon and your initial review. I was leaning towards the Alfawise U20 Pro, but after seeing this vid and getting the discount (end price of $519.20) it came down to print quality. I also noticed you were using it for your LowRider 2 project; which means (I assume) that it's become one of your daily workhorses. Just wanted to say thanks and that I just hit "subscribe".
Creality must be listening to feedback from sources like your video. My Pro, purchased last month, seems to have many of these issues addressed.
I'm thinking of buying the pro, what changes does it have that was addressed here?
I love your jacket. Glad to see you watch formula 1 also. Great video
Great Video!! I was especially enlightened about using the wrench for setting the distance on the z axis sensor. I only wish I saw this last week. I just bought a BLtouch to battle the inconsistent Z homing, to find I was shipped Version 3.0 BLtouch.....and it doesn't work on the CR10s Pro. I installed it yesterday. The print nozzle slams into the bed. It will probably be better to re-install the original probe and wait for someone to work out the "bugs" in the newest version of BLtouch sensor. Love your videos, keep up the good work!!!!!!!!
I was wondering if I needed the v2 or of the v3 would work. You can’t use the v3 because the nozzle hits the bed?
version 3.0 works.. use that tutorial czcams.com/video/PLKEhdznVMY/video.html and for version 3.0 use the jumper on the board! and about the firmware.. tinymachines b7 you don't have to change anything with marlin.. it work's fine as it is. by the way.. before the nozzle crashes into the bed.. i would test it with your finger.. if it doesn't stop.. then use the power button on your printer to stop it.. before something is damaged..
Impressive Work
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Nice Senna hoodie.
Thanks, I picked it up at the GP the other week.
Hey, just wanted to share the fix i've been using for the poor filament path to reduce the dust. As far as i could tell this was caused not so much by the path but by tension put on the filament at the runout sensor causing it to grind against the inlet, it was happening once i decided to try a larger spool of petg which wasnt spinning on the spool holder very smoothly. I fixed this just by putting some automotive bearing grease on the spool holder... it just lets it spin easier and i have very little dust...
I fixed this issue by simple moving the spool holder to the side of the machine rather than being at the top
I added the z axis sync. Not sure if the backlash nut works better but the belt sync is great. Some other issues are the warped heated bed (which mesh leveling should theoretically fix) and poor manufacturing on various components. Example: holes filiment goes through had such horrible burrs it cut the filiment through every hole (barely fit ) creating the dust you pictured. Took some tedious deburring and fixed it. Took lot of work and it prints great now but the time investment could have bought a better brand.
Thanks for the fixes to think about. I haven't ordered one but have been thinking of doing so. Having these fixes in mind will help me judge if its worth the investment.
3D print some ducting for the mainboard cooling system. It'll help a ton.
thx!! i have been waiting a long time for this video
Great video mate! Awesome information as usual.
I can also use this tips on my diy printer too, so it is more general in my opinion :)
Keep up the good work!
great video, the only thing i want to say about filament access i have tested with several filaments and i can tell that poor quality filaments leaves dust, but filament from colorfabb does not leave any dust my longest print was 23,5 hour and was not even one dust came, compare with cheap pla from creality . But what is only my opinion. your videos are super good!
might want to relocate the mosfet to the aluminum frame, it's location currently doesn't dissipate the heat well as it's mounted on standoffs in the case.
Are you talking about the solid state relay for the heated bed? Generally the bed MOSFET has the most current through it but on this printer there is a SSR instead.
@@TeachingTech yes, it get stupid hot from what I've seen-the back should be the heatsink portion, but it's elevated so not getting adequate heat spread
Thanks for the great video, I’ve got one being delivered today along with a magnetic flexible plate(a different brand). and will do all these things, got the 3D printed upgrades printing on my mini v2 printer atm, So excited! I love fixing things up.
if you get the 24v fan you dont need extra items. it can just replace the existing fan
Must have been some product changes -- my Pro has a fan at the back (exhausting to the rear) and the greatest noise is the part cooling fan.
You need to do a new video on this on the two major issues that actually affect basic printing. Unlevel gantry and left side stepper motor grinding with the Z-Rod likely do to the unlevel gantry. I have done every fix I've seen on CZcams backlash nuts bearings at the top disassemble make sure everything's square level copacetic you name it I'll get 10 prints that are nice and then out of nowhere grinding and then the zig and the gantry is off by like anywhere from 2:00 to 12 mm driving me freaking nuts ready to shoot this thing with my 12 gauge 3 years of this insanity
Great video, very instructive.. Thanks
loudest fan is not the mainboardfan, its the meanwell powersupply fan. I got rid of all stock fans, now its almost silent.
Was reading to see if someone mentioned this. Yes, at idle the machine is not bad but when the fan in the power supply kicks in db's increase considerably. So the biggest offender is the power supply fan, not the motherboard fan.
I agree but it's much more involved. That's why I said it wasn't much of an improvement here and linked to the video from Nerys.
Great stuff, as always. To me, one of the best enhancements in the TM3D firmware upgrade is the Z offset adjustment on the "Adjustment" screen. It makes first layer adjustments so much easier.
Live z adjust comes with the stock firmware. Also included now is heat runout
Great review, but... WTF should the consumer have to go to the trouble of installing a range of fixes, including an essential safety feature, on a brand new printer? What have Creality said in relation to these issues? Are all new pros still shipped with these various issues?
Great video, but you miss the 8th and most crusial problem. The wires to the heated bed is bound to break leadig to thermal runaway or even fire due to shortcut
@5:56 🙀 that's why there's four clips. Take the bed off so you don't damage the machine while you're hacking away at prints.
This was INCREDIBLY helpful! It looks like there's a way to calibrate the esteps with the new firmware, but I can't figure out how it works. Is there a tutorial somewhere?
For getting rid of the irritating DTMF keytone- Change 3 sure, 4 return and 5 key waw files in the screen files for the display with waw files with a click sound
This, is an awesome video. I am a new subscriber as of about two weeks ago and thoroughly enjoy the objective straightforwardness of all your subject matter. Thank you. Question, I am not a wham bam user (yet). Does a person need to use a glue stick for adhesion to the wham bam upgrade?
Thanks ver much and no, I haven't done anything besides IPA and steel wool every few prints as recommended.
Anyone who owns this probably want a video for the y axis layer shifts at any non slow speeds and adjusting the belt tensioner for y.
Not to mention getting a good tradeoff between friction and lash on the 8 Y rollers.
two days and hours.. can't get a first layer to stick.... done all the normal stuffs to fix it... but damn... Going to try the tinymachines soon. Getting a bit frustrated.
I had the same problem with the filament run-out sensor on my CR-10S V2
Did you also change the bed to the wham bam 310 x 320mm as he shows in this video?
One more issue that came up and needs fixing fast: The machines are catching fire because of a poor strain relief design holding bed heating wires. There are some fixes out there but they aren't 100% yet.
it's == it is
its == belongs to it
You meant to say "its combination of size and print quality".
It's true.
Hello Michael. First of all I want to say your reviews are great. Very detailed and well explained. About this CR-10S Pro. I kept thinking. This is a $650 plus taxes and fees printer, plus your recommended upgrades which they all look like must haves, this printer comes out over $750. With that same money you can get the latest Prusa MK3S which is a better printer only trailing this one in print volume. What are your thoughts on this? Do you have a review on the Anycubic Chiron?
Haven't used the Chiron but I still love my mk3. It has stood up very well against all of the printers I've reviewed since. Build volume as you say is the downside compared to the cr-10
@@TeachingTech Ok. Thanks. It would be great if you could do a Chiron review.
Great job and keep it up
Great Video thanks for sharing
What do you think about upgrading the sensor to an inductive one? With the steel WhamBam bed this should work quite well.
If you are still stuck, this or a BLtouch would help. Nexi Tech made a conversion video: czcams.com/video/VH3zrRNOGfA/video.html
Love your videos
Oh yeah.
Got the like for the King reference. Cheers.
Guys if your using a solid base use a fish knife to get your prints off, works perfect every time.
Thanks for your very good videos, Michael. Could You please or someone else measure the dimensions of the mainboard, including the positions of the screw-holes?
I believe that the machine has too many fans and they are fastened to a large sounding board ( the large thin sheet metal enclosure) that amplifies the sound of the fans. I have solved similar problems with fan noise by using elastic isolation mounts.
Very good
Holy steel wool. You should be using triple 0 steel wool, not drill shavings. My only gripe. Good vid otherwise.
Amazing video! The bad launch turned me away from Creality CR - X so I went with a Prusa MK3s which has its own issues :(
what issues mk3s got ?
@@MrCcfly Mostly first layer issues both because of Pinda sensor and bed adhesion. There was one time which pinda sensor malfunctioned and smashed the hotend really hard to the bed. Also Slic3r prusa edition is terrible compared to Ultimaker cura
I think about buying a wham bam bed for the mk3s.
@@djdontgetcooked can i ask you one more i love petg and my printed dont like it so much so i look for another one ,,by prusa videos and some forum posts petg is great with mk3s but i dont know .. did u print anything in petg and how it like ?
@@MrCcfly Yes I made one print so far with the stock config of Slic3r prusa edition and the results except the raft were great
I've read that you have to be careful with that ABL probe : it's apparently pretty sensible to heating, so if you put it closer to the bed, it will be even worse :(
I ordered a few days ago an inductive sensor (
Love your video!!! my printerhot end burned also, but creality dont answer. There are so many users out and they cant change the hardware and frustrated with this printer. creality dont answer to emails to help. there is to much money you have to add to get maybe a good printer. 45 dollar for the case fans to change them all, 20 dollars for the hotend fans, 100 dollar for the printbed, ... for the half price you can build your own printer with the same results and have a enclosure. i wished i never had bought this printer.
You cant build ANYTHING near the quality of this printer for that price.... most issues with the cr10s pro are all user error besides the leveling
My 1st roll of PLA was $40 Tronxy black, and it was hard to get prints off my std End3 bed. But when that ran out I got generic $20 PLA, and it now has trouble sticking to the bed. Now I wonder how different different brands of PLA are, because Maker's Muse had trouble with stringing with different bands of filament.
Most of the time not much different but every now and again as you mention it can be profound.
I am going back and forth between the CR-10s and the CR-10s pro. It looks like the pro has a lot of bugs. In your opinion which one do you think is better?
Great knowledge thankyou
I need a PEX sheet for my CR10 Max!!
re: Poor filament path = dust. While it's always fun to print a fix, I'm wondering if I couldn't just take a countersink and gently round out the inlet. Remove the sharp edge = no scraping the filament = no dust. Or even take a round needle file and round out just the sharp top edge where the filament passes. Or, what the heck, my two hour print hasn't produced any dust; maybe Creality has already fixed this?
Just print the part dude
Hey @Teaching Tech, this video is 9 months old has there been any upgrades to the original software or do you still recommend flashing tinymachines software onto it?
Very helpful video. Do you know if any of the problems you mentioned were catered for in the CR-10S Pro V2 ?
You listed to purchase the 310x310 in your description for wham bam... the Cr-10 PRO is 310x320 please fix so that other people don't buy the wrong model based on your recommendation.
Great Video as always, thank you. I see Creality has a new firmware on the site since your firmware instruction video. Does that new version still have no thermal runaway? Also, any idea where to find the release notes of the Creality firmware?
The cr10s PRO has a 310x320mm print bed. Do not buy the 310x310mm. There is an option for 310x320mm wham bam build plate. That will fit perfectly.
Can you please post a single video with just the ABL calibration procedure. I think even with the Tiny 3D video there is confusion on how to adjust the sensitivity of the ABL sensor vs. the actual height adjustment of the ABL sensor itself. I've had a hard time with this.
Hi
loved your latest video on cr-10s pro
was wondering if you could provide us a in depth video on probing and bed-leveling and auto as Iwatched several videos but they seem to provide conflicting procedures which are not clear contradictory and ee hope you could clear this up for us.
The wham-bam size for the cr-10s pro is 310x320 I believe. That's what I ordered anyway :O
Good because i ordered the 310x310 thinking it was recommended 310x310 for a reason but it didn't fit
@@fernandosantiago5606 Yeah check the site's sizings, cr-10s PRO is 310x320 system. I hope you're able to get it sorted out :O
please do CR10S pro and artillery x1 Shoot out
Hello Teachings tech i have difficulty in working on the onshape mobile, assembly drawing will you please make a vlog on it ....
I wonder if you could leave the bottom plate off then not use the rear frame fan at all. your new fan should keep the stepper drives nice and cool and the PSU will run cooler as it is not boxed in. Or maybe you have tried this and its not a good idea. Thank you for the great video of updates.
The bottom cover helps the rigidity of the base and helps it maintain square of all axes.
Yes , you are right. It is needed. Thank you for the video and taking the time to reply.
try some silicone fan mounts to quiet fans down
Hi Michael, Does the Ender CR10s Pro thermal runaway correction firmware work on the Ender CR10s Pro V2 as well??
The ultrabase solves the adhesion problem and is cheaper than the whaam bam
Each to their own.
Hello!. The flexible build system you suggested is this “315 X 310 Kit With Pre-Installed PEX Build Surface - Creality K1 Max, Ender 3 S1 Plus, CR10 Smart Pro”.. 110 usd?
FYI 12v Fan +12v fan = 24v.... 12v Fan + 12v LED = 24v so many combinations in upgrading that Z
Pallette 2!! When is the review?
I've only just unboxed it. Currently stuck on the mandatory firmware update.
Tnx for your review helps a lot . I have one question I’m between 2 printers now from many of your reviews 😀.
1. CR10S pro V2( with all your upgrades).
2 .ENDER 6
Which would you prefer ??
Which one did you end up going for? I am getting a CR10S pro V2 and planning to doing some of these updates (I'm not sure if the firmware or cooling fan duct replacement is still needed though with the new version)
Ender 6 has no community and support...so go with a cr10 model 😉👍