Absolutely pure truth, Thank you AJ , my car is light battery, rear seat delete and 320hp on open exhaust and it’s fantastic, had to put the seats back for family 😆😆
@@AJClubsport thinking about buying a gen 1 next year, the ones within my price range has about 15k-30k km. Would it ve a bad idea to go for a «stage 1» 290-320 hp on a engine that has so many km? Im gonna upgrade the handling first
Wow thanks Adriano - agree 110% with your thinking, subscriber for life✊✊ I’ve ordered a gen 2 but plan on keeping it stock and just enjoy it. I’ve got some huge mountains and valleys 5 min from my place that I’ll be having fun on. Once tyre go I’ll put the cup 2’s on and do the suspension mods you mention. Not interested in doing anything with the motor, honestly the power is mindblowing for me and the Toyota engineers have built a great engine as is. I did have a stock 420hp rear wheel drive and this GR puts a bigger smile on my face. Thankyou for sharing your knowledge, absolutely priceless. Chriso - Australia
What a pleasure Chris, to hear your likewise in thought and all: seems you have the right plan in mind, you will enjoy fully with no headaches! Let me know directly if you will require any further assistance!
I’ve been searching for a level headed knowledgeable approach to the GRY and I’m so glad I’ve found it in you AJ. That was a great video and very helpful as I’m nearly two years in to my ownership and now I feel I want to improve the car but not ruin in. Look forward to more content, thank you.
Hello Fresno, welcome to the Club! While I still have to get my hands on a Gen.2 in first person, you can retain the Gen.1 video and data 100% accurate also for the Gen.2. I have published a detailed video and mentionnes in all the power stages videos. If you have questions after watching them, I’m here to help!
I've changed front/rear bushings + "banans". Yes, car changed significantly in handling, but comfort changed as well not in the best way. So I've started to think about adjustable suspension so I can increase comfort on daily usage and KW clubsport v4 seems like the cheapest and proofed option.
Yes, that will be a good setup, but comfort will be worse than stock suspension. There is a bit more NVH from the bushings, and coilovers don’t impact it. All the same, this is a rally car and it’s clear that there are some tradeoffs 👌💪🏼
Nice video, AJ. You follow many of the ideologies I do, too. One thing to ask is about the rear arms; at this point I have not changed any rear bushings but I do plan to. My car has the Cusco sport x coilover kit which has excellent ride quality for the given stiffness, I am that guy you described who tracks the car more than any other driving so I am using 12/16 springs but am likely to change this to 12/18 as I feel the rear is not as controlled as the front. Obviously buying the Cusco arms (my preferred brand since getting sport x) will give me spherical bearings, which are a necessity I agree, however my current alignment totally does not need any other adjustment. My rear has 2’20 left and right within say 3 minutes, and the toe angles have been fine to adjust from 2mm total in to 4mm total out (depending on my mood at the time) without any adverse impact on other elements of the alignment. My question is, will spherical bearings give me the necessary improvement to the rear compliance OR are there other geometry secrets locked into the adjustable arms that I am not aware? Right now I am following a less is more methodology and really like how the car is performing. I may increase the height by another 10mm soon which will likely reduce my rear camber again, perhaps back to the desired 2’ you describe. Your input will be valued as always 🙏 Grazie.
Thankyou Jason! Yes it seems you have a very stiff setup there, clearly track focused. Before exchanging the rear springs, I advise you to change the rear arms: most of the movement you feel is from them. Remember also the trailing arm bushing, that is the most compliant pf all. This should fix it, and maintain the angles true while driving. Camber curve isn’t an issue at the rear, I would focus more on bump ride before engaging bumpstops. You will want it equal or slightly less than in front. You may keep the same angles, maybe a tad less camber!
Thanks for the really objective explanation! Best gr yaris related channel on YT. Since you seem to be in close contact with BOS: Would be nice to have these in germany with TUV compliance. Anyone knows how to get these legaly approved?
Hello mate, Unfortunately BOS has not held their part of the deal and have been sending out new kits with the non-evolution version. Together with bad service and more, I decided to terminate the support and cooperation with them. For the last two months I have been working with another top level suspension firm, and we are developing three kits for the GR Yaris, that will all come with a Certificate of Compliance, so you will be able to get TUV approval, plus better overall performance. An announcement video will come soon!
Yes, I agree and said the same in the video. For dry days, AR1’s or similar will be the best option, but for clubsport ever day use, these are the best compromise for me!
@@AJClubsport eager to test the new CR-S but maybe its not so good for road as cup2, so one needs three sets for summer - pure track, fast road, and then gravel/drift fun. ;). Currently have Cup2 for fast stuff and valino greevas for fun stuff.
No I had no idea. My engineering knowledge is pretty limited, another reason that I am very interested in your channel. Here comes another naive question that might not apply to me right now, yet someone may benefit. Are the Wiborg arms compatible with the Verkline front subframe?
Yes they are, but you don’t need to change the subframe, as gains are negligible: the stock unit is very good and sits on self aligning conical rear bolts
@@AJClubsport Thanks - yesterday we were watching restoration work for Carrera GT - lovely to have fun people and cars around. let's keep the culture livin.. !
Wow, I love the Carrera GT so much, what a beautiful concert the engine makes! Yes, let’s keep the culture alive and always stronger! No OEM or political figure should have the power of writing off the freedom to emotions!
Great video and info AJ, your doing all the hard work so we don't have too, 👍with the Verkline parts which look great quality, front and rear, can you purchase parts separately as they wear ? I'm allso looking at the Hardrace left and right engine mounts when they need changing, any thoughts on these? Would love a furure video on the oil pressure and baffled sump mods, and your thoughts on if it's needed or works, I've got my own ideas on adding oil capacity, don't like the overfill method. Regards Russ , keep up the great work 🙏
Thankyou Russ! For the suspension arms, you will want Wiborg ones in front, and Verkline in rear. I suggest you do all these together and to start with. If you buy Verkline front arms, you will also need their hub to achieve correct alignment and camber curve, so more expensive and setup is a nightmare. Not a fan of Hardrace, I would only buy aluminium parts from them. Engine mounts will be fine with Powerflex inserts. Will think about the oil, have already discussed it in the 5 stages of tuning
Yes my bad AJ, the Verkline would be rear only, as your set up, front was the Verkline torque mount only, I'll definatly stay stock at front with Wiborg arms. Thanks for feed back on the engine mounts 👍 Regards Russ..
Great video. Thank you. As my front pads are getting low thought id take your advice for pads and swop discs as a first simple mod. But EBC say "RP‑1 is not Reg 90 homologated for road use within Europe and is therefore illegal for use on the public road. " My GR is for fun only. Have been to the ring twice, and again in 6 eerks. Also local UK tracks. Im worried of legal problams? Already rear seats removed, lightweight battery and GRMN steering wheel. Your suggestions for the control arms etc, must be nest steps to consider. Again thank you.
Thankyou for replying and for your support! About the pads, I really wouldn’t worry about the regulation part, just get the right pad for your use, and I think it could be the RP1. Yes definitely consider the front arms from Wiborg, and email them saying you are a subscriber of mine, they will apply a 10% discount
Hello! Great videos, just discovered this channel and am thinking of buying a basically new Gen 1 I heard AWD Clutchpack or Rear diff cooling is an issue, i see no parts in this list right that issue - what’s your perspective on it?
Hello, nice to meet you, welcome to the club! For the rear differential cooling the definitive solution is the Hel Performance diff cooler kit, you can find it on their online store
My take is that they can just ruin your handling: suspension arms a good coilovers kit will do all you need, outside of a track specific car, I wouldn’t install them
It's like the 6th time I've watched this video, haha! Willing to sell a kidney to pre-order the updated or higher level BOS Suspension if they can make them TÜV friendly in Germany! 🤣
Have you tried the Bridgesstone Potenza Race and do you have an opinion on them? Tyrereview says they’re outstanding, especially in the rain and still usable and comfortable daily.
Yes, but how rainy? If you have huge standing water, no tire will enable you to go fast in safety, but on mild wet the CUP2 work well, full wet will be better on the standard tires
As in most of parts for this car, it’s easier to make it worse than better! Don’t go under ET 32 on 8J rims, stay ET45 on wider rims. In any case try to find the few wheels that at least don’t add weight in comparison to the stock BBS ones! I use OZ Racing Leggera model
Really appreciate the feedback! Was planning on TE37 18x9 et40 is this setup okay? Im on stock suspension btw. And not planning on changing it especially as ive watched this video. Subscribed!!
@@LEE-gg5os If going BIG GRIP, I would suggest 265/35R18 with 9.5J R18 ET45 wells. It will work well, provided you have the right suspension coilover kit and arms to deal with all that GRip!
Hello! Actually they are very cheap, and I will explain why: they totally change the front end geometry and track. To obtain the same from a Verkline kit, for example, you will need to purchase both their arm and hub. Plus the Wiborg kit is fixed, the Vekline one has so many adjustments it is difficult to get it right and keep it so! Without changing the front geometry, you will always end up understeering…
@@AJClubsport My wallet hurts at the moment though.. How about some pillow ball bushing sets? I see Cusco sells some for lower front arm, but clearly I am just starting out with this hobbie and have way too much to learn! Thanks as always
Yes, I used to use them on S2000, as at the time I was the official importer for Italy. Very good products, but not needed on the GR! Did you know that the two main rear bolts of front subframe are conical?!? In three years, nor front or rear have shifted on mine!
Hi AJ. Love your videos mate. No mention on swaybars in your mods. Are the factory swaybars good with all these suspension mods or would you recommend upgrading Front and/or rear swaybars also? Shame you have to put up with such petty comments such as the guy at the bottom, he should just move on.
Hello John, thankyou for your comment and support! Yes, unfortunately by law of numbers you occasionally get some keyboard lions 😂😂😂 In regards to the swaybars, I would steer away from them unless the car isn’t a full track vehicle, and still… A lot of the sway/roll you feel is from the bushings compliance, then springs. Already bushings and arms correct it while retaining a car that is understandable and predictable in its reactions. With a good coilover kit it becomes negligible. Harder sway bars effectively reduce mechanical grip, and must be seen as ultimate last beach to go to on this car, as stock ones are already quite stiff! Cheers
@@AJClubsport Thanks for the advice re swaybars AJ. I run a Jap spec GR mostly in 3 lap Circuit Sprints (and Autocross/Motorkhana) here in NZ so overheating is not an issue. Unfortunately I use up my funds buying the car so dont have a big budget, so was looking to start with the cheaper upgrades first. Have the Deadweight Lithium battery to install next weekend along with Titanium brake shims. I run hand-me-down Toyo semi slicks on light rims and have camber bolts installed front to give -3.5 camber. Keep up the great work!
Excellent!! This is the best and most mature owner/driver advice I've come across for modifying the GR. Subscribed!
Thankyou mate, and welcome to the Clubsporters!!
Thank you for your work, you are amazing keep it up man, so grateful to have found you.
Thankyou mate, sooo appreciated ❤️👌
Absolutely pure truth, Thank you AJ , my car is light battery, rear seat delete and 320hp on open exhaust and it’s fantastic, had to put the seats back for family 😆😆
Right on! Same here Eric!
How many km with the tune?
In general, if you service the car well, at 320bhp at least 50/60.000km
@@AJClubsport thinking about buying a gen 1 next year, the ones within my price range has about 15k-30k km. Would it ve a bad idea to go for a «stage 1» 290-320 hp on a engine that has so many km? Im gonna upgrade the handling first
I dont daily drive, just drive about 10k km a year
Great advice as always AJ, keep the quality no bull content coming
Thankyou Adam!
Quality content! Can’t even get the car name right ha ha
Wow thanks Adriano - agree 110% with your thinking, subscriber for life✊✊ I’ve ordered a gen 2 but plan on keeping it stock and just enjoy it. I’ve got some huge mountains and valleys 5 min from my place that I’ll be having fun on. Once tyre go I’ll put the cup 2’s on and do the suspension mods you mention. Not interested in doing anything with the motor, honestly the power is mindblowing for me and the Toyota engineers have built a great engine as is. I did have a stock 420hp rear wheel drive and this GR puts a bigger smile on my face. Thankyou for sharing your knowledge, absolutely priceless.
Chriso - Australia
What a pleasure Chris, to hear your likewise in thought and all: seems you have the right plan in mind, you will enjoy fully with no headaches! Let me know directly if you will require any further assistance!
I’ve been searching for a level headed knowledgeable approach to the GRY and I’m so glad I’ve found it in you AJ. That was a great video and very helpful as I’m nearly two years in to my ownership and now I feel I want to improve the car but not ruin in. Look forward to more content, thank you.
Thankyou mate, most appreciated, this is the reason I made the channel! ❤️
Excellent video - glad I am more or less going down the suggested stage one route, with a few tips on the control arms to thing about.
Thankyou mate, happy this has helped!
Great video AJ, really appreciate the value and knowledge you bring in about the car!
Thankyou Richard ❤️
Contenuto eccellente come sempre! Grande Adriano 👍🏻💪🏻
Grazie Vittorio!
I would love to see a video about gen 2 regardning changing the exhaust system. What would be some key points to be aware of?
Hello Fresno, welcome to the Club!
While I still have to get my hands on a Gen.2 in first person, you can retain the Gen.1 video and data 100% accurate also for the Gen.2.
I have published a detailed video and mentionnes in all the power stages videos.
If you have questions after watching them, I’m here to help!
Ciao Adriano , è sempre un piacere seguire i tuoi video e pareri sulla nostra GR Yaris
Grazie Marco, mi fa molto piacere che ti piacciano i contenuti, sono felice!
I've changed front/rear bushings + "banans". Yes, car changed significantly in handling, but comfort changed as well not in the best way. So I've started to think about adjustable suspension so I can increase comfort on daily usage and KW clubsport v4 seems like the cheapest and proofed option.
Yes, that will be a good setup, but comfort will be worse than stock suspension. There is a bit more NVH from the bushings, and coilovers don’t impact it. All the same, this is a rally car and it’s clear that there are some tradeoffs 👌💪🏼
@@AJClubsport Thanks AJ. All changes based on your videos and help. Like changes a lot. Anyway suspension change not in nearest future.
My pleasure, take home what you need!
Nice video, AJ. You follow many of the ideologies I do, too. One thing to ask is about the rear arms; at this point I have not changed any rear bushings but I do plan to. My car has the Cusco sport x coilover kit which has excellent ride quality for the given stiffness, I am that guy you described who tracks the car more than any other driving so I am using 12/16 springs but am likely to change this to 12/18 as I feel the rear is not as controlled as the front. Obviously buying the Cusco arms (my preferred brand since getting sport x) will give me spherical bearings, which are a necessity I agree, however my current alignment totally does not need any other adjustment. My rear has 2’20 left and right within say 3 minutes, and the toe angles have been fine to adjust from 2mm total in to 4mm total out (depending on my mood at the time) without any adverse impact on other elements of the alignment. My question is, will spherical bearings give me the necessary improvement to the rear compliance OR are there other geometry secrets locked into the adjustable arms that I am not aware? Right now I am following a less is more methodology and really like how the car is performing. I may increase the height by another 10mm soon which will likely reduce my rear camber again, perhaps back to the desired 2’ you describe. Your input will be valued as always 🙏 Grazie.
Thankyou Jason! Yes it seems you have a very stiff setup there, clearly track focused. Before exchanging the rear springs, I advise you to change the rear arms: most of the movement you feel is from them. Remember also the trailing arm bushing, that is the most compliant pf all. This should fix it, and maintain the angles true while driving.
Camber curve isn’t an issue at the rear, I would focus more on bump ride before engaging bumpstops. You will want it equal or slightly less than in front. You may keep the same angles, maybe a tad less camber!
Excellent content, many thanks!
Thankyou Adam, your support encourages me!! 💪🏼👌
Thanks for the really objective explanation! Best gr yaris related channel on YT. Since you seem to be in close contact with BOS: Would be nice to have these in germany with TUV compliance. Anyone knows how to get these legaly approved?
Hello mate,
Unfortunately BOS has not held their part of the deal and have been sending out new kits with the non-evolution version. Together with bad service and more, I decided to terminate the support and cooperation with them.
For the last two months I have been working with another top level suspension firm, and we are developing three kits for the GR Yaris, that will all come with a Certificate of Compliance, so you will be able to get TUV approval, plus better overall performance.
An announcement video will come soon!
cup2 also here for fast road + easy track - very fine tyre indeed!
Great to hear your feedback mate, completely agree!
@@AJClubsport for balls out track driving would recommend something more stiff/robust, but for occasional track fun cup2 is fine
Yes, I agree and said the same in the video. For dry days, AR1’s or similar will be the best option, but for clubsport ever day use, these are the best compromise for me!
@@AJClubsport eager to test the new CR-S but maybe its not so good for road as cup2, so one needs three sets for summer - pure track, fast road, and then gravel/drift fun. ;). Currently have Cup2 for fast stuff and valino greevas for fun stuff.
Yes, that is why the CUP2 is such a good option, because it does 90%+ of better track tires and you can still do all the rest with them!
Great content! And very thankfull for your recommendations regarding Alingment numbers, thanks a lot!
Cheers mate, my pleasure!
Thankyou. Extremely interesting and informative.
Thankyou mate, although the BOS kit isno longer available and recommended, I am working on three new kits with a very serious new company
Hi! Great content and very informative, thank you for taking the time. Did you develop a rear wing for the car?
Hello and thankyou mate!
We haven’t got around to a rear wing yet, unfortunately!
No I had no idea. My engineering knowledge is pretty limited, another reason that I am very interested in your channel. Here comes another naive question that might not apply to me right now, yet someone may benefit. Are the Wiborg arms compatible with the Verkline front subframe?
Yes they are, but you don’t need to change the subframe, as gains are negligible: the stock unit is very good and sits on self aligning conical rear bolts
I like your approach - having similar approach to driving here. ;)
Thankyou, I enjoy your posts on Instagram!
@@AJClubsport Thanks - yesterday we were watching restoration work for Carrera GT - lovely to have fun people and cars around. let's keep the culture livin.. !
Wow, I love the Carrera GT so much, what a beautiful concert the engine makes! Yes, let’s keep the culture alive and always stronger! No OEM or political figure should have the power of writing off the freedom to emotions!
@@AJClubsport yes Carrera GT is crazy and awesome in all means ..!
@Aj another great and informative video
Lots to keep in mind
Thankyou mate! 🙏
Thanks again ❤️🇦🇺. I’m interested in cams and springs in how they effect mountain road driving and normal street driving .
Have you seen the Power Stages videos (2)? It is all covered in there mate!
Great video and info AJ, your doing all the hard work so we don't have too, 👍with the Verkline parts which look great quality, front and rear, can you purchase parts separately as they wear ?
I'm allso looking at the Hardrace left and right engine mounts when they need changing, any thoughts on these?
Would love a furure video on the oil pressure and baffled sump mods, and your thoughts on if it's needed or works, I've got my own ideas on adding oil capacity, don't like the overfill method.
Regards Russ , keep up the great work 🙏
Thankyou Russ!
For the suspension arms, you will want Wiborg ones in front, and Verkline in rear. I suggest you do all these together and to start with. If you buy Verkline front arms, you will also need their hub to achieve correct alignment and camber curve, so more expensive and setup is a nightmare.
Not a fan of Hardrace, I would only buy aluminium parts from them. Engine mounts will be fine with Powerflex inserts.
Will think about the oil, have already discussed it in the 5 stages of tuning
Yes my bad AJ, the Verkline would be rear only, as your set up, front was the Verkline torque mount only, I'll definatly stay stock at front with
Wiborg arms.
Thanks for feed back on the engine mounts 👍
Regards Russ..
How about Polybush for the RTA bush? I want to minimise NVH and am also a bit wary of using pillowball components on salted UK roads 😅
Yes, it could be a great idea if Powerflex got around to it mate!
Great video, earned a new sub! What are your thoughts on intakes?
Thanks for the sub! I have a recent video on intakes, will release my own in some months, the one you see is only a prototype
Great video. Thank you.
As my front pads are getting low thought id take your advice for pads and swop discs as a first simple mod.
But EBC say "RP‑1 is not Reg 90 homologated for road use within Europe and is therefore illegal for use on the public road. "
My GR is for fun only. Have been to the ring twice, and again in 6 eerks. Also local UK tracks. Im worried of legal problams?
Already rear seats removed, lightweight battery and GRMN steering wheel.
Your suggestions for the control arms etc, must be nest steps to consider. Again thank you.
Thankyou for replying and for your support! About the pads, I really wouldn’t worry about the regulation part, just get the right pad for your use, and I think it could be the RP1.
Yes definitely consider the front arms from Wiborg, and email them saying you are a subscriber of mine, they will apply a 10% discount
Very useful thanks! What about aftermarket exhausts and intakes? I see a lot of conflicting info regarding these.
My pleasure! Please refer to my 2 videos on 5 stages of engine tuning, I explain it all in detail
Hello! Great videos, just discovered this channel and am thinking of buying a basically new Gen 1
I heard AWD Clutchpack or Rear diff cooling is an issue, i see no parts in this list right that issue - what’s your perspective on it?
Hello, nice to meet you, welcome to the club! For the rear differential cooling the definitive solution is the Hel Performance diff cooler kit, you can find it on their online store
Great advice AJ ! (Subscribed!) can i know what is your take on the aftermarket sway bars for the gr yaris ?
My take is that they can just ruin your handling: suspension arms a good coilovers kit will do all you need, outside of a track specific car, I wouldn’t install them
It's like the 6th time I've watched this video, haha! Willing to sell a kidney to pre-order the updated or higher level BOS Suspension if they can make them TÜV friendly in Germany! 🤣
Thankyou mate, will try again!
Have you tried the Bridgesstone Potenza Race and do you have an opinion on them? Tyrereview says they’re outstanding, especially in the rain and still usable and comfortable daily.
The Potenza Race are great tires, but I haven’t had a chance to test them personally: I’m sure they will work very well
Thanks
I see you are viewing many videos, thankyou!
Have you tried the Bridgestone RE-71Rs? Interested to know how they compare to the Cup 2's.
Unfortunately I haven’t had the chance mate, it would be great if tire vendors were a bit more open and sent sets out to test!
Very good Video as always AJ
Thankyou!
Would you recomend Pilot Sport cup 2s even for those of us who live in a very rainny area?
Yes, but how rainy? If you have huge standing water, no tire will enable you to go fast in safety, but on mild wet the CUP2 work well, full wet will be better on the standard tires
Any advise on the handbrake? Stock it dont always lock the rears
Hello Kevin! Of course: there is a full video on the handbrake topic, check the channel video list please
Whats your take in changing the wheels of the gr yaris?
As in most of parts for this car, it’s easier to make it worse than better!
Don’t go under ET 32 on 8J rims, stay ET45 on wider rims. In any case try to find the few wheels that at least don’t add weight in comparison to the stock BBS ones! I use OZ Racing Leggera model
Really appreciate the feedback! Was planning on TE37 18x9 et40 is this setup okay? Im on stock suspension btw. And not planning on changing it especially as ive watched this video. Subscribed!!
@LEE-gg5os happy to help!
@@AJClubsport would a wheel setup of 18x9 et40 with 255/35/18 tires on stock suspension ruin the handling of the car?
@@LEE-gg5os If going BIG GRIP, I would suggest 265/35R18 with 9.5J R18 ET45 wells. It will work well, provided you have the right suspension coilover kit and arms to deal with all that GRip!
Hey AJ, the Wiborg LCA are very expensive... what else can I do to improve the front handing? I already have the KW v3 coilovers
Hello! Actually they are very cheap, and I will explain why: they totally change the front end geometry and track. To obtain the same from a Verkline kit, for example, you will need to purchase both their arm and hub. Plus the Wiborg kit is fixed, the Vekline one has so many adjustments it is difficult to get it right and keep it so!
Without changing the front geometry, you will always end up understeering…
@@AJClubsport My wallet hurts at the moment though.. How about some pillow ball bushing sets? I see Cusco sells some for lower front arm, but clearly I am just starting out with this hobbie and have way too much to learn! Thanks as always
Yes, I tried with the Solid Powerflex black ones: better wait and do it once and well, as there is no comparison mate!
@@AJClubsport Oh well, I guess the wallet will have to do some work, do you have any referal link or coupon/discount to buy these LCA?
Yes, for the moment please email Wiborg Engineering, telling them you are a subscriber of mine and you will receive 10% discount
I've seen a Japanese guy installing the Spoon Rigid Collar thing in his GRMN Yaris. Spoon is very reputable. Do you know something about it?
Yes, I used to use them on S2000, as at the time I was the official importer for Italy. Very good products, but not needed on the GR! Did you know that the two main rear bolts of front subframe are conical?!?
In three years, nor front or rear have shifted on mine!
I have them. No regret
ciao adriano ! cosa ne pensi del kit coilovers di WIBORG (reds by mca) e dei nitron rt3 ?
Sono entrambi degli ottimi kit se fai 90% pista, se no mi orienterei su BOS, adesso che abbiamo fatto la nuova evoluzione che va da Dio!
Hi AJ. Love your videos mate. No mention on swaybars in your mods. Are the factory swaybars good with all these suspension mods or would you recommend upgrading Front and/or rear swaybars also? Shame you have to put up with such petty comments such as the guy at the bottom, he should just move on.
Hello John, thankyou for your comment and support! Yes, unfortunately by law of numbers you occasionally get some keyboard lions 😂😂😂
In regards to the swaybars, I would steer away from them unless the car isn’t a full track vehicle, and still…
A lot of the sway/roll you feel is from the bushings compliance, then springs.
Already bushings and arms correct it while retaining a car that is understandable and predictable in its reactions. With a good coilover kit it becomes negligible.
Harder sway bars effectively reduce mechanical grip, and must be seen as ultimate last beach to go to on this car, as stock ones are already quite stiff!
Cheers
@@AJClubsport Thanks for the advice re swaybars AJ. I run a Jap spec GR mostly in 3 lap Circuit Sprints (and Autocross/Motorkhana) here in NZ so overheating is not an issue. Unfortunately I use up my funds buying the car so dont have a big budget, so was looking to start with the cheaper upgrades first. Have the Deadweight Lithium battery to install next weekend along with Titanium brake shims. I run hand-me-down Toyo semi slicks on light rims and have camber bolts installed front to give -3.5 camber. Keep up the great work!
First news that in Spain some units came with 235 instead of 225 😮
@cars_otr yes, its incredible!
bos road kit ?
Esatto, abbiamo appena fatto un’evoluzione, da me voluta, testata ed approvata
It’s a Toyota GR Yaris. At least get the name of the car right. Just amateurish otherwise.
What are you referring to?!?
@@AJClubsport the title of the video
@@AJClubsport if you don’t even realise what you done then that makes it even worse!
The title is correct, and I don’t like your tone. If you are in the mood for hating, please take it elsewhere
@@AJClubsport it isn’t correct though. The car is a GR Yaris. Not a Yaris GR as titled.