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Hello Jay! I have seen great things from HJS, but not from the other brand: they should send the parts in for a review! For sure the HJS can’t go wrong. Don’t put 76mm exhaust, as you will loose power. This is why we did all the testing for you!

I’m sorry for your experience, but it was the shop’s problem not informing you there was a password! They should had given it to you. Nowadays EcuTek can log into the Ecu’s even remotely, so times have changed, don’t hate on the only brand that is giving us the actual possibility pf tuning our cars like on an aftermarket ecu while still on stock!

@@AJClubsport I did contact Ecutek's office numerous times for assistance but to no response, password or not. It was terrible. I still have those unresponded emails. I don't hate, I have moved on and had tuned many other cars using other platforms, I am just telling my experience. It is completely unnecessary to lock the ECU.

@@khvidtube1617 Sorry mate, but this is just irrelevant to this video. Also, my car in the test isn't even using EcuTek yet.

Ideally it would be great to own them both!

@@AJClubsport can't afford one let alone two 🤣

Maybe one day, after hard work!

Don’t take it badly… You know, it is very tiring to answer all comments like yours, because there isn’t the basic technical understanding beneath to work with. Of course 0W20 oil works, and a good quality one will work better too. Simply put, the protective film of a 5W30 oil is thicker, and this is now accepted by Toyota, after much testing direct and indirect from us tuners, from Lamspeed to ACME, to Toyota Gazoo Italy and many more. A 5W30 will always protect more than a 0W20, especially in an engine like this one that has 3 piston squirters and is known for blow by due to piston ring float.

Thankyou for that Michael, I surely will!

The issue is the transfer case, that today is the weak point in the whole transmission mate. This car isn’t on EcuTek yet, but their launch control will be very useful for times, no difference to the transmission stress

@@AJClubsport thanks for the quick response Adriano, yes I saw some transfers melted by the heat, by the way, did you install a decat downpipe, could share to us the brand or the specs please?

Yes, it is all in the video’s description mate: InoxCar 70mm system

@@AJClubsport thanks mate, got it, I understood that InoxCar was from the midpipe not the from the catback, my bad. Bes wishes!!, Keep up the great content.

Yes, well said! You have more power than me! Also you need our hood vents to keep the temperatures down even at this power level

@@AJClubsport I'm having the big fatty setrab series 6 25 row oil cooler so it works quite well for my use case.

I have one too, but there is a huge difference in cooling with the vents, also affecting IAT, because of the air extraction: this is even before considering the aerodynamic benefits of eliminating the front end lift!

There must be a mistake, as API SP is in the car’s books and is a superior quality. Maybe they don’t have it?

I think they say 5000km, but i would suggest to flush after 1000 and then again at 5000

Hahahaha, I wish!!

if you want to safely go past stage 1 then yes springs are essential

Not yet, because still on bolt ons: usually springs and cams together, but point is I don’t trust the stock piston rings, so I would go with pistons and rods too in that occasion, to have a safe base. Then you cam decide what to do turbo wise, and fuel follows, as stock system runs out at about 420bhp. But do you honestly need more in a car that is still streeted?

Than the fl5 civic type r is the better car for you

Yes, I also don’t like to launch my car much, this was the second time in three years, but the show must go on mate! I don’t have that data to 60, sorry mate

​@@davothegreat9990fl5 in Spain costs from 60k, while gr yaris is 42k. Also for me sportcar should have only two doors ;) i was considering fk8 which is the same pace as fl5 for less price.

@@Kirtanus it's a great car if you're not into hard launching. Why bother with awd.

@davothegreat9990 yes, the new Type R stands for “Rocks”! 😂😂

Hahhaha, someone has long site!

lol!

0-100 in 3s, 1/4mile in 10.9s @206kph (okay 60ft of 1.8s) so can be quicker, 100-200kph 7.2s. mods = Lamspeed response turbo kit 😊

Congratulations, amazing result! Must be a hoot to drive!

@@AJClubsport It's quite the handful Adriano 😅 but definitely a hoot indeed. one of the greatest platforms to steer as you know haha.

@WES-GR4PES yes, I’m sure that your level of power is really a handfull mate!

Hello Jeppe, thankyou for sharing! Yes, I precisely understand your point and dissatisfaction: I can tell you that if you have a couple months more patience, I am currently developing 3 new kits with Rally characteristics - thru a partnership with a Suspension brand that has won 9 WRC titles! The three kits are: - 1-way - 4-way tarmac, with hydraulic bump stops - 4-way gravel, with hydraulic bump stops This time, I am overseeing the complete development, and the kits will not see the market till I am totally satisfied. Believe me, it will be worth the wait, and I will have an eShop distributing them directly.

Can’t wait to see what the new suspension recommendations will be. I’m looking to sell my Subaru P1 and buy a GR Yaris and was thinking of fitting the BOS road kit but will wait to see your recommendation.

@rhysevans1401 yes mate, BOS is no longer recommended unfortunately

I’ve been watching your CZcams channel with interest to see what modifications you recommend as the GR Yaris is such a good car in standard form. I’ll be using the car on Welsh B roads which is like a broken tarmac rally stage! Exe-tc and Reiger produce some fantastic suspension for this type of application so I will be watching with interest to see what suspension you recommend.

@@rhysevans1401 I may be actually working with one of those two brands to make the new kits now! Thankyou for supporting, this channel involves a LOT of work! Cheers

Sorry mate, what is OCD?

@@AJClubsport Obssessive Compulsive Disorders, it's a joke to say it triggers me 😂

Ah ok 🤣😂😂😂😂 cheers mate! Nurburgring has given me many many satisfactions in the past!

Hello mate, thankyou for the very precise insight! The biggest difference I feel is at idle, no changes thru the rev range. But I also have Powerflex Black inserts in engine and gearbox mounts… My suggestion is that if the NVH is very important for you, maybe it will be best to stay stock. Any mount will introduce increased vibrations. Good mounts will be more linear, but we have a 3 cylinder car, that is the most unbalanced engine possible

Hello, nice to meet you! I believe the early cars had the most difficult gearboxes, while the later ones were better. I hope they improved things in the Gen.2 but have no confirmation

Super, you are very welcome!

Yes of course: in my opinion these aren’t really problems for this audience, that will modify the car anyways…

You are right, I saw the same: fact is that some are WRONG! There is only one version, they should check their text better!!

Cheers mate! How many Kms do you have on the DNA? I have the blacks, very happy with them, but you do noticeably feel the added vibrations in cabin

My DNA torque mount worked great until it didnt. The bushings split down the middle after around 10.000KMs. No launches from 0, no track driving.

There you go, thankyou mate for stepping up and sharing your experience! Just as imagined…

@@AJClubsport I have roughly 5000km on mine now. The inner cabin vibrations went back to as it was with the original torque mount like 1 months ago… Makes me wonder if mine is also ‚dead‘. Are DNA products that bad?

@@Cernunn0s90 How did you notice yours was broken? Did you check it after some time or did you notice it through impacted performance when changing the gears?

Yes, I haven’t got around to that yet. There is also another brand that makes a similar kit for a bit less, still looks good. Fact is, I am still figuring out what level to take this car to at the end of this journey!

Noted! It isn't in the plans till it remains a daily, but who knows what the future reserves us!

Yes, as I like saying, on cars like these, its easier to make it worse than better, looking at all aspects!

Forgot to add, I use aluminium inserts where the gearshift mechanism meets the gearbox.

Yes, I also have the aluminium inserts in the gearshift mechanism. Your setup is similar to mine, only difference is the aftermarket torque mount, as I have seen in the past that inserts wear over time. Thankyou for sharing!

Thankyou Russ and hello! Actually the spigot ring has more of a centering function: what carries the vertical load is the union between the rim and disc, therefore if the torque is loose, the force is directly transmitted to the bolts, hence failing. On top of that, if the quality is low, they are more prone to failure

I’m happy to receive your confirmation on this, thanks Jason ☝️🙏

No retorquing mate, it is that you have to drive the car very hard, so it heat cycles the rubber from extremely hot to cool for 2/3 times

Hello Holger, thankyou for sharing! I already have the Powerflex Black inserts in both the engine side and gearbox side mounts, and they make a very good difference, at a price of much increased vibration

I heard about quite a few that are having the 4-5 gear change issue, but I never experienced it

Yes it is, thankyou for sharing!

Another great update AJ, good to see it's a steel construction, never understand Ali on a fast road car. I had mine into the dealers early on for adjustment after watching your early video on this. I was struggling to go from 1st to 2nd, but this would go after the oil warmed up. It came out a little more improved but the issue returned, I still get the odd clunk from 1st to 2nd as if it's a synchro, but once fully warmed up it clears. Do they do this part in black, hate these bright colours on parts, just attracts attention if your in for MOT or inspection, just me being old lol. Regards Russ....

Yes, you have a point there: unfortunately this is the only color, but you can always spray paint it AND it won’t be seen if they don’t take the under tray out

Cheers!

I’m sorry to hear this, but it does happen on these gearboxes… Tell Toyota: they should pass it in warranty, even because how could you had damaged it?

Yes mate, this is the most probable cause, together with the material not being of the right tensional strength or quality!

Don’t want to let down, but I’m afraid to become too geeky 😅

You are very welcome, thankyou for watching, please subscribe for more!

Thankyou mate, although the BOS kit isno longer available and recommended, I am working on three new kits with a very serious new company

Hello and thankyou mate! We haven’t got around to a rear wing yet, unfortunately!

It is perfect mate, just what my dealer had!

@@AJClubsport you are talking about the eco-lite or the 8100 power? Because in the video you showed the eco-lite

They are both ok, as they respect the API-SP rating

Glad to help, really appreciate your support mate!

Thankyou ❤️

Hi, in my experience I had to take the screws away, there is a bit of movement needed to get thru!

@@AJClubsport thanks a lot! Will give it a try and use your code for order. Much appreciated.

@@uenlue my pleasure, thankyou!

Arp is a very good brand: for sure they are the right tensile strength. To make sure, certainly they will have noted it on their catalogue

With stock wheels and tyres - yes. If you put more pressure on the car with wider stickier tyre, and especially new rims, better have long ones.

Yes mate, as @kirtanus said very well!

@@AJClubsport Thank you guys!

Hey AJClubsport, great video! I did not have any issues with the wheel studs on my GR Yaris. I was thinking about upgrading to wheel studs made out of titanium (Phil from Rötheli Racing has some) and lug nuts made out of titanium to save some weight. Would that be a good idea or should I stay at steel wheel studs and steel lug nuts? What material are the wiborg wheel studs made of? Galvanized wheel studs would make titanium brittle, if I would use steel wheel studs with titanium lug nuts.

​@@wubziz4769just for me titanium studs have low value/money coefficient. It's ok when Phil puts 100k euro in the time attack build, but for daily there are cheap mods AJ mentioned in other videos.

Thankyou mate! The Titanium option is a good one, although I would be changing them every few years, as opposed to steel. The Wiborg are 10.9 steel, motorsport grade, with a proper coating on them

No problems, tracking with Nankangs CRS

Thankyou for the support! I’m sorry but I don’t have any evidence of this swap being possible

@@AJClubsport i meant can you use the gear300 LS for the front transfer case? what happens when you use the normal gear300 for the rear diff?

Sorry mate! Yes, Gear 300LS is fine in the front transfer too